Getting There & Around

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) flies from Dunedin to Christchurch, Wellington and Auckland, and Jetstar ( 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) flies to Auckland. The only train services are heritage trips from Dunedin to Middlemarch and Dunedin to Palmerston. The main bus routes follow SH1 or SH8.

Waitaki District

The broad, braided Waitaki River provides a clear dividing line between Otago and Canterbury to the region’s north. The Wai­taki Valley is a direct but less-travelled route from the Southern Alps to the sea, featuring freaky limestone formations, Maori rock paintings and ancient fossils. The area is also one of NZ’s newest winemaking regions, and a major component of the new Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail (Click here) that links Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park to Oamaru on the coast. The district’s main town, Oamaru, is a place of penguins and glorious heritage architecture.

Omarama

Pop 267

At the head of the Waitaki Valley, Omarama is surrounded by mountain ranges and fabulous landscapes. Busy times in this sleepy place include the rodeo (28 December) and the sheepdog trials (March).

Sights & Activities

Clay Cliffs Paritea LANDMARK

This bizarre moonscape is the result of two million years of erosion on layers of silt and gravel that were exposed along the active Ostler fault line. The cliffs are on private land; before setting out, pay the $5 vehicle admission fee at Omarama Hot Tubs. To get to the area, head north from town for 4km on SH8, turn left onto Quailburn Rd, and then turn left after 4km onto unsealed Henburn Rd.

Wrinkly Rams FARM

( 03-438 9751; www.thewrinklyrams.co.nz; 24 Omarama Ave; adult/child $20/10) A regular stop for tour buses, Wrinkly Rams stages 30-minute shearing and sheepdog shows, including lamb-feeding in season. Phone ahead to tag along with a tour group, or book your own one-off show. Attached is one of Omarama’s better cafes (mains $7-25; 7am-4.30pm; ) .

Omarama Hot Tubs SPA

( 03-438 9703; www.hottubsomarama.co.nz; 29 Omarama Ave; per 1-/2-/3-/4-person tub $45/80/105/120, pod 75/140/180/200; 11am-late) If your legs are weary after mountain biking or hiking, or you just want to cosy up with your significant other, these private, wood-fired hot tubs could be just the ticket. The concept is Japanese, but with the surrounding mountain ranges, the lakeside setting and a pristine night sky, you could only be on the South Island of NZ.

Choose between a 90-minute soak in a tub (each has its own dressing room) or a two-hour session in a ‘wellness pod’, which includes a sauna. The chemical-free glacier and snow-melt water is changed after each booking, and the used water is recycled for irrigation. Therapeutic massages (30/60 minutes $60/100) and beauty treatments are also available.

Glide Omarama GLIDING

( 03-438 9555; www.glideomarama.com) The area’s westerlies and warm summer thermals allow for world-class gliding over the hills and spectacular Southern Alps, and a national gliding meet is held here in December or January. This crew offers lessons and scenic flights ranging from 30 minutes ($325) to three hours ($640).

Sleeping & Eating

Buscot Station FARMSTAY, HOSTEL $

( 027 222 1754; SH8; site/dm/s/d $10/25/43/61) For a completely different and uniquely Kiwi experience, grab a room in the homely farmhouse attached to a huge sheep and cattle station, or a bed in the large dormitory out the back. Look for it on SH8, 10km north of Omarama.

Omarama Top 10 HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-438 9875; www.omaramatop10.co.nz; SH8; sites $34-39, unit with/without bathroom $110/55; ) This streamside holiday park is a peaceful green space to camp in. Standard cabins are compact, but larger en suite and self-contained motel units are available.

Ladybird Hill WINERY $$

(www.ladybirdhill.co.nz; 1 Pinot Noir Ct; mains $6-32; 10am-4pm Thu-Sun Aug-Jun) Sure, you can do it the easy way and simply order a leisurely lunch from the menu. Or you can grab a rod, catch a salmon from the well-stocked ponds and wait until it’s prepared, smoked and served to your table ($37, which feeds two to three adults). Other attractions include a kids’ playground and walking tracks through the hillside vineyard.

Information

Omarama Hot Tubs doubles as the information office, and can assist with accommodation and transport information. See www.discoveromarama.co.nz for more information.

Getting There & Away

InterCity ( 03-471 7143; www.intercity.co.nz) Daily coaches head to/from Christchurch (from $42, 5¾ hours), Mt Cook Village (from $32, 1¼ hours), Twizel (from $13, 19 minutes), Cromwell (from $23, 1½ hours) and Queenstown (from $32, 2½ hours).

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) Services stop in Omarama for a break before continuing on to Christ­church ($35, four hours), Lake Tekapo ($20, one hour), Twizel ($20, 20 minutes), Cromwell ($25, 1½ hours) and Queenstown ($30, 2¼ hours).

Waitaki Valley

Wine, waterskiing and salmon-fishing are just some of the treats on offer along this little-travelled route. Coming from Omarama, SH83 passes an array of arrestingly blue lakes, each abutted by a hydroelectric power station. For a scenic detour along the north bank, leave the highway at Otematata and cross over the huge Benmore Dam, then cross over Aviemore Dam to rejoin the highway.

A succession of sleepy little heartland towns line the highway, peppered with rustic heritage bank buildings and pubs. One of the most appealing is tiny lost-in-time Kurow (population 302), the home town of World Cup–winning All Blacks captain Richie McCaw. From almost-as-cute Duntroon (population 90), adventurous (and appropriately insured) drivers can take the unsealed road over Danseys Pass to Naseby.

Although they’ve got a long way to go to attain the global reputation that their colleagues on the other side of the mountains in Central Otago enjoy, a few winemaking pioneers in Waitaki Valley are making wine that international experts are taking notice of.

Sights

Kurow

Kurow Heritage
& Information Centre MUSEUM

( 03-436 0950; www.kurow.org.nz; SH83; 9.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) While Richie McCaw might get all the attention these days, Kurow’s other famous son was Arnold Nord­meyer (1901–1989), a Labour Party leader who was one of the key architects of NZ’s welfare and public-health system. His memory is honoured in this interesting community museum, which jokingly refers to itself as the National Museum of Social Security.

Vintner’s Drop WINERY

( 03-436 0545; www.ostlerwine.co.nz; 45 Bledisloe St; noon-5pm Thu-Sun Nov-Mar) Housed in Kurow’s old post office, Vintner’s Drop acts as a tasting room for Ostler Vineyards. It also sells wine from seven other small local producers.

Pasquale Kurow Winery WINERY

( 03-436 0443; www.pasquale.co.nz; 5292 Kurow-Duntroon Rd; 10am-4pm Nov-Mar) The valley’s most impressive winery, Pasquale produces killer pinot noir, pinot gris and riesling, as well as less common varietals such as gerwürtztraminer, arneis and viognier. Drop in for a wine-tasting session ($10, refundable upon purchase) and a winery platter ($38), including smoked Aoraki salmon and local Whitestone cheese.

Duntroon & Around

Takiroa Maori
Rock Painting Site ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

Hidden within the honeycomb cliffs lining the highway, this well-signposted site, 3km west of Duntroon, features centuries-old drawings of mystical creatures, animals and even a sailing ship.

Vanished World Centre MUSEUM

(www.vanishedworld.co.nz; 7 Campbell St; adult/child $7.50/free; 10.30am-4.30pm Fri-Mon) Perhaps there wouldn’t be quite so many bad dolphin tattoos and dancing-penguin films if more people stopped in Duntroon to check out this small but interesting volunteer-run centre. Once you see the 25-million-year-old fossils of shark-toothed dolphins and giant penguins, they suddenly don’t seem so cute.

Pick up a copy of the Vanished World Trail map outlining 20 different interesting geological locations around the Waitaki Valley and North Otago coast.

Maerewhenua Maori
Rock Painting Site ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE

(Livingstone-Duntroon Rd) Sheltered by an impressive limestone overhang, this site contains charcoal-and-ochre paintings dating to before the arrival of Europeans in NZ. Head east from Duntroon and take the first right after crossing the Maerewhenua River; the site is on the left after about 400m.

Elephant Rocks FILM LOCATION

Sculpted by wind, rain and rivers, the huge limestone boulders of this bizarre landscape were utilised as Aslan’s Camp in the NZ-filmed Narnia series (2005). They’re located on farmland about 5.5km south of the highway; follow the signs after crossing the Maerewhenua River.

Oamaru

Pop 12,900

Nothing moves very fast in Oamaru. Tourists saunter, locals linger and penguins waddle. Even oft-celebrated heritage modes of transport – penny farthings and steam trains – reflect an unhurried pace. Most travellers come here for the penguins, but hang around and you’ll sense the wellspring of eccentricity bubbling under the surface. Put simply, this is New Zealand’s coolest town.

Down by the water, a neighbourhood of once-neglected Victorian buildings now swarms with oddballs, antiquarians and bohemians of all stripes, who run offbeat galleries, fascinating shops, hip venues and even an ‘urban winery’. Most visible are the Steampunks, their aesthetic boldly celebrating the past and the future with an ethos of ‘tomorrow as it used to be’. What Oamaru used to be was rich and ambitious. In its 1880s heyday, Oamaru was about the same size as Los Angeles was at the time. Refrigerated meat-shipping had its origins nearby and the town became wealthy enough to build the imposing buildings that grace Thames St today. However, the town overreached itself and spent the end of the 19th century teetering on the verge of bankruptcy.

Economic decline in the 20th century meant that there wasn’t the impetus to swing the wrecking ball with the same reckless abandon that wiped out much of the built heritage of NZ’s main centres. It’s only in recent decades that canny creative types have cottoned on to the uniqueness of Oamaru’s surviving Victorian streetscapes and have started to unlock this otherwise unremarkable town’s potential for extreme kookiness.

Sights

Blue Penguin Colony WILDLIFE

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( 03-433 1195; www.penguins.co.nz; Waterfront Rd; 10am-sunset) In an old limestone quarry near the waterfront, you can see the little tykes from the Oamaru little penguin colony surfing in and wading ashore. The penguins arrive in clumps just before dark (around 5.30pm in midwinter and 9.30pm midsummer), and it takes them about an hour to all come ashore. Stands are set up on either side of the waddle route. General admission (adult/child $28/14) will give you a good view of the action but the premium stand ($40/20), accessed by a boardwalk through the nesting area, will get you closer.

You’ll see the most penguins (up to 180) in November and December. From March to August there may be only 50 to 70 birds. Nightly viewing times are posted at the i-SITE (Click here). Use of cameras is prohibited and you’re advised to dress warmly.

To understand the centre’s conservation work and its success in increasing the penguin population, take the daytime, behind-the-scenes tour (self-guided adult/child $10/5 or guided $16/8); packages that combine night viewing and the daytime tour are available.

Do not under any circumstances wander around the rocks beside the sea here at night looking for penguins. It’s damaging to their environment and spoils studies into the human effects on the birds.

Yellow-Eyed Penguin Colony WILDLIFE

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(Bushy Beach Rd) Larger and much rarer than their little blue cousins, ­yellow-eyed penguins waddle ashore at Bushy Beach in the late afternoon to feed their young. Despite their Maori name, hoiho, meaning ‘noisy shouter’, they’re extremely shy; if they see or hear you they’ll head back into the water and the chicks will go hungry.

In order to protect these endangered birds, the beach is closed to people at 3pm, but there are hides set up on the cliffs (you’ll need binoculars for a decent view). The best time to see them is two hours before sunset.

Victorian Precinct NEIGHBOURHOOD

Consisting of only a couple of blocks centred on Harbour and Tyne Sts, this atmospheric enclave has some of NZ’s best-preserved Victorian commercial buildings. Descend on a dark and foggy night and it’s downright Dickensian. It’s also ground zero for all that is hip, cool and freaky in Oamaru, and one of the most fun places to window-shop in the entire South Island. Wander around during the day and you’ll discover antiquarian bookshops, antique stores, galleries, vintage clothing shops, kooky gift stores, artist studios and craft bookbinders. At night there are some great little bars, and you might even see a penguin swaggering along the street – we did!

The precinct is at its liveliest on Sundays when the excellent Oamaru farmers market is in full swing and tourists on penny farthings wobble up and down Harbour St. Note that some shops and attractions are closed on Mondays.

Steampunk HQ GALLERY

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(www.steampunkoamaru.co.nz; 1 Itchen St; adult/child $10/2; 10am-4pm) Discover an alternative past – or maybe a quirky version of the future – in this fascinating art project celebrating Steampunk culture. Ancient machines wheeze and splutter, and the industrial detritus of the last century or so is repurposed and reimagined to creepy effect. Bring a coin to fire up the sparking, space-age locomotive out the front.

Friendly Bay Playground PLAYGROUND

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(Wansbeck St) Steampunk for kiddies: this awesome playground includes swings suspended from a giant penny farthing, a ­slippery pole accessed from an armoured elephant, and a giant hamster wheel.

Thames St STREET

Oamaru’s main drag owes its expansive girth to the need to accommodate the minimum turning circle of a bullock cart. Oamaru’s grand pretensions reached their peak in a series of gorgeous buildings constructed from the milky local limestone (known as Oamaru stone or whitestone), with their forms reflecting the fashion of the times; there’s a particular emphasis on the neoclassical.

Impressive examples include the Forrester Gallery (at No 9, built 1883), the ANZ Bank (No 11, 1871), the Waitaki District Council building (No 20, 1883), the North Otago Museum (No 60, 1882), the Courthouse (No 88, 1883) and the Opera House (No 92, 1907). For more information, pick up the Historic Oamaru pamphlet from the i-SITE (Click here).

Forrester Gallery GALLERY

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(www.forrestergallery.com; 9 Thames St; 10.30am-4.30pm) Housed in a temple-like former bank building, the Forrester Gallery has an excellent collection of regional and NZ art. It’s a good place to see works by Colin McCahon, one of NZ’s most significant modern artists.

North Otago Museum MUSEUM

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(www.northotagomuseum.co.nz; 60 Thames St; 10.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 1-4.30pm Sat & Sun) Behind its classical facade, the North Otago Museum has exhibits on Maori and Pakeha (European New Zealander) history, writer Janet Frame, architecture and geology.

Oamaru Public Gardens GARDENS

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(Severn St; dawn-dusk) Opened in 1876, these beautiful gardens are a lovely place to chill out on a hot day, with expansive lawns, waterways, bridges and a children’s ­playground.

St Patrick’s Basilica CHURCH

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(64 Reed St) If you’ve ever fantasised about being transported back to ancient Rome, stroll through the Corinthian columns and into this gorgeous Catholic church. Renowned architect Francis Petre went for the full time warp with this one, right down to a coffered ceiling and a cupola above the altar.

Activities

Oamaru Steam & Rail TRAIN RIDE

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(www.oamaru-steam.org.nz; adult/child/family 1 way $5/2/12, return $8/3/20; 11am-4pm Sun) On Sundays, take a half-hour ride on a vintage steam train from the Victorian Precinct to the waterfront.

Oamaru Cycle Works CYCLING

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( 027 439 5331; 4 Wansbeck St; lesson & ride $20) For a thoroughly Victorian-era thrill, take a vertiginous ride on a penny farthing along Harbour St. Ask David the owner about his intrepid penny-farthing trek up the entire length of New Zealand. He also rents out 1940s-style bikes (half-/full day $20/45). Opening hours vary; call for times.

Vertical Ventures CYCLING, ROCK CLIMBING

( 03-434 5010; www.verticalventures.co.nz) Rent a mountain bike (from $40 per day), or join guided mountain-biking trips, including the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail (seven days including transport, food and accommodation $2700) and helibiking day trips (from $415). The ‘vertical’ part comes in the form of rock climbing (from $140 per person).

Tours

Penguins Crossing WILDLIFE TOUR

( 03-437 0753; www.travelheadfirst.com; adult/child $55/20) Door-to-door tour taking in the blue and yellow-eyed colonies. Price includes standard admission to the blue-penguin colony.

Festivals & Events

Oamaru Wine & Food Festival WINE, FOOD

(www.oamaruwineandfoodfest.co.nz) Showcasing North Otago’s food and wine scene. On the third Sunday in February.

Victorian Heritage Celebrations CULTURE

(www.vhc.co.nz) Five days of costumed hijinks, culminating in a grand fete. In mid-November.

Sleeping

Old Bones Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 03-434 8115; www.oldbones.co.nz; Beach Rd; r $90, campervan per person $20; ) About 5km south of Oamaru on the coast road, this top-notch dorm-free hostel has spacious rooms off a sunny, central space. Relax in this isolated setting listening to the surf crashing over the road.

Chillawhile Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 03-437 0168; www.chillawhile.co.nz; 1 Frome St; dm $26-30, s/d $55/70; ) Unleash your creative spirit at this funky and colourful hostel in a two-storey Victorian residence. Guests are encouraged to draw and paint, or create sweet soul music on the hostel’s varied instruments.

Waitaki Waters HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-431 3880; www.campingoamaru.co.nz; 305 Kaik Rd; sites/cabins from $14/50) The enthusiastic young owner sees that the bathrooms and kitchens are sparkling and the hedges manicured at this simple campground, 3km off SH1, 20km north of Oamaru. Cabins are simple but well maintained; bring your own bedding.

Oamaru Top 10 HOLIDAY PARK $

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( 03-434 7666; www.oamarutop10.co.nz; 30 Chelmer St; sites $40-44, units with/without bathroom from $105/65; ) Grassy and well maintained, this Top 10 has trees out the back and the public gardens next door. Standard cabins are basic, but the other units (with varying levels of self-contained comfort) are much nicer.

Highfield Mews MOTEL $$

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( 03-434 3437; www.highfieldmews.co.nz; 244 Thames St; d $140-170; ) Motels have come a long away from the gloomy concrete-block constructions of the 1960s and ’70s, as this new-build attests. The units are basically smart apartments, with kitchens, desks, stereos, tiled bathrooms and outdoor furniture.

Criterion Hotel HOTEL $$

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( 03-434 6247; www.criterionhotel.co.nz; 3 Tyne St; s $60, d with/without bathroom $120/90; ) Period rooms at this lovingly restored 1877 hotel are smallish, but the guest lounge is large and the beds are new. Rates include a help-yourself continental breakfast. Downstairs there’s the distraction of a great corner pub.

AAA Thames Court Motel MOTEL $$

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( 03-434 6963; www.aaathamescourt.co.nz; 252 Thames St; d $120-150; ) A good option for families, this older motel has been given a biege-over (the colour of our times) and the renovated units are comfortable and well priced. For an extra $5 it’s worth trading up from a studio to a much larger one-bedroom unit.

Pen-y-bryn Lodge B&B $$$

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( 03-434 7939; www.penybryn.co.nz; 41 Towey St; r $550-625) Well-travelled foodie owners have thoroughly revitalised this beautiful 1889 residence. Predinner drinks are served in the antiques-studded drawing room, and you can opt for rates (from $850) which include a four-course dinner in the fabulous dining room.

Eating

Steam CAFE $

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(www.facebook.com/steamoamaru; 7 Thames St; mains $4-7; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2pm Sat & Sun) Steam specialises in coffees and fruit juices, and is a good spot to stock up on freshly ground Java for your own travels. Settle in for breakfast, or partake of a freshly baked muffin.

Whitestone DELI, CAFE $

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(www.whitestonecheese.co.nz; 3 Torridge St; 9am-5pm) The home of award-winning artisan cheeses, Whitestone is a local culinary institution, and the little factory-door cafe is a fine place to challenge one’s arteries. Food is limited to the likes of cheese scones, cheese-only platters ($5) and large platters with crackers and quince paste ($18).

Harbour St Bakery BAKERY $

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(4 Harbour St; pies $5; 10am-4pm Tue-Sun) Selling both European-style bread and Kiwi meat pies, this Dutch bakery covers its bases well. Grab an outdoor seat and watch Oamaru’s heritage street life scroll past like an old-time movie.

Northstar MODERN NZ $$

( 03-437 1190; www.northstarmotel.co.nz; 495a Thames Hwy; lunch $17-20, dinner $26-31; noon-3pm & 6-9pm) Surprisingly upmarket for a restaurant attached to a SH1 motel, Northstar is the first choice for Oamaruvians with something to celebrate. Expect robust bistro fare with a touch of contemporary flair.

Midori JAPANESE $$

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( 03-434 9045; www.facebook.com/MidoriJapaneseSushiBarAndRestaurant; 1 Ribble St; sushi $8-11, mains $12-18; 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat, noon-8.30pm Sun) Housed in a heritage stone building, Midori’s sashimi and sushi makes the most of fresh local seafood. Other carefully prepared dishes include salmon on rice and teriyaki blue cod.

Drinking & Nightlife

Criterion Hotel PUB

(www.criterionhotel.co.nz; 3 Tyne St; 11.30am-late Tue-Sun) The most Victorian of the Victorian Precinct’s watering holes, this corner beauty has a good beer selection and plenty of local wines. There’s usually live music on Fridays.

Birdlands WINE BAR

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(www.birdlands-wine.com; 3 Harbour St; 8pm-late Thu, 1pm-late Fri-Sun) Oamaru’s hippest spot: not only does Birdlands serve excellent wine, it’s made here too, from grapes grown in the Waitaki. Also on offer are craft beers, other local wine, Whitestone cheese boards and live music most weekends.

Fat Sally’s PUB

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( 03-434 8368; www.facebook.com/fatsallys; 84 Thames St; 11.30am-late Tue-Sun) The fat lady is popular with locals, especially early in the evening when they’re often tucking into a substantial pub meal. Come along on a Wednesday night for the rollicking pub quiz.

Entertainment

Penguin Club LIVE MUSIC

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(www.thepenguinclub.co.nz; Emulsion Lane, off Harbour St; admission varies) Tucked down an atmospheric alley off a 19th-century street, the Penguin’s unusual location matches its acts: everything from touring Kiwi bands to punky/grungy/rocky/country locals. The last Friday of the month is open-stage jam night.

Limelight Cinema CINEMA

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( 03-434 1070; www.limelightcinema.co.nz; 239 Thames St; adult/child $15/10) Cheaper on ­Tuesdays.

Information

Oamaru i-SITE ( 03-434 1656; www.visit­oamaru.co.nz; 1 Thames St; 10am-4pm; ) Mountains of information including details on local walking trips and wildlife, plus daily penguin-viewing times are posted here. There’s also bike hire (per day $40) and an interesting 10-minute DVD on the history of the town.

Oamaru Whitestone Civic Trust ( 03-434 5385; www.historicoamaru.co.nz; 2 Harbour St; 10am-4pm) Vintage B&W photos of Oamaru’s heritage, maps, information and walking tours of the historic precinct.

Getting There & Away

Most buses and shuttles depart from the Lagonda Tearooms (191 Thames St; 9am-4.30pm) . Both the tearooms and the i-SITE take bookings.

InterCity ( 03-471 7143; www.intercity.co.nz) Two daily coaches to/from Christchurch (from $21, 4¼ hours), Timaru (from $14, one hour), Moeraki (from $11, 30 minutes) and Dunedin (from $14, 40 minutes), and one to Te Anau (from $29, 6½ hours).

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) Daily buses to/from Christchurch ($30, 3¾ hours), Timaru ($20, 1¼ hours) and Dunedin ($20, 1¾ hours).

Coast Line Tours ( 03-434 7744; www.coastline-tours.co.nz) Shuttles to/from Dunedin ($30) with a detour to Dunedin airport possible.

Knightrider (www.knightrider.co.nz) Has a bus most nights to/from Christchurch ($43, four hours), Christchurch airport ($48, 3¾ hours), Timaru ($28, 1¼ hours), Moeraki ($25, one hour) and Dunedin ($33, two hours).

Naked Bus ( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com; prices vary) Daily buses head to/from Christchurch (3¾ hours), Timaru (1¼ hours), Moeraki (35 minutes) and Dunedin (1¾ hours).

Moeraki

The name Moeraki means ‘sleepy sky’, which should give you some clue as to the pace of life in this little fishing village. You might be surprised to learn that this was one of the first European settlements in NZ, with a whaling station established here in 1836. Since then, Moeraki has nurtured the creation of several national treasures, from Frances Hodgkins’ paintings to Keri Hulme’s The Bone People, and Fleur Sullivan’s cooking.

Apart from Fleur’s eponymous restaurant, the main attraction is the collection of large spherical boulders scattered along a beautiful stretch of beach like a kid’s giant discarded marbles. The famed Moeraki Boulders (Te Kaihinaki) lie just off SH1, a kilometre north of the Moeraki turn-off. Try to time your visit with low tide.

It’s a pleasant 45-minute walk along the beach from the village to the boulders. Head in the other direction on the Kaiks Wildlife Trail and you’ll reach a cute old wooden lighthouse. You might even spot yellow-eyed penguins and fur seals (be sure to keep your distance).

Sleeping & Eating

Olive Grove Lodge & Holiday Park HOSTEL $

( 03-439 5830; www.olivebranch.co.nz; SH1, Wai­anakarua; sites/dm $12/31, d with/without bathroom $85/75) Nestled in a loop of the ­Wai­anakarua River, 12km north of the Moeraki turn-off, this organic farm offers both bucolic camping sites and a colourful lodge with a sunny communal lounge. Kids will love the playground and highland cattle; parents will love the spa, eco lifestyle, organic vegies and peaceful vibe.

Moeraki Village Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-439 4759; www.moerakivillageholidaypark.co.nz; 114 Haven St; sites $32, unit with/without bathroom $100/60; ) Occuping a small field above the road into town, this complex offers powered sites, basic cabins (bring your own linen) and fully equipped motel units.

Moeraki Beach Motel MOTEL $$

( 03-439 4862; www.moerakibeachmotels.co.nz; cnr Beach & Haven Sts; d from $105) The four split-level units at this motel aren’t about to win any design awards, but they are spacious. Each has a full kitchen and a balcony.

Fleur’s Place SEAFOOD $$$

( 03-439 4480; www.fleursplace.com; Old Jetty, 169 Haven St; mains $32-42; 9.30am-late Wed-Sun) There’s a rumble-tumble look about it, but this timber hut houses one of the South Island’s best seafood restaurants. Head for the upstairs deck and tuck into fresh chowder, tender muttonbird and other ocean bounty. Bookings are strongly recommended.

Getting There & Away

All of the buses on the Oamaru–Dunedin run stop on SH1 by the Moeraki turn-off. From here it’s a 2km walk into the centre of the village.

Dunedin

Pop 121,000

Two words immediately spring to mind when Kiwis think of their seventh-largest city: ‘Scotland’ and ‘students’. The ‘Edinburgh of the South’ is immensely proud of its Scottish heritage, never missing an opportunity to break out the haggis and bagpipes on civic occasions.

In fact, the very name Dunedin is derived from the Scottish Gaelic name for Edinburgh: Dùn Èideann. The first permanent European settlers, two shiploads of pious, hard-working Scots, arrived at Port Chalmers in 1848, and included the nephew of Scotland’s favourite son, Robbie Burns. A statue of the poet dominates the Octagon, the city’s civic heart, and the city even has its own tartan.

If there were a tenuous link between the Scottish and the students that dominate Dunedin in term time, it would probably be whisky. The country’s oldest university provides plenty of student energy to sustain the local bars, and in the 1980s it even spawned its own internationally influential indie music scene, with Flying Nun Records and the ‘Dunedin sound’.

Dunedin is an easy place in which to while away a few days. Weatherboard houses ranging from stately to ramshackle pepper its hilly suburbs, and bluestone Victorian buildings punctuate the compact city centre. It’s a great base for exploring the wildlife-rich Otago Peninsula, which officially lies within the city limits.

Sights

Toitu Otago Settlers Museum MUSEUM

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(www.toituosm.com; 31 Queens Gardens; 10am-4pm Fri-Wed, to 8pm Thu; ) Storytelling is the focus of this excellent interactive museum. The engrossing Maori section is followed by a large gallery where floor-to-ceiling portraits of Victorian-era settlers stare out from behind their whiskers and lace; click on the terminal to learn more about the individuals that catch your eye. Other displays include a re-created passenger-­ship cabin, an awesome car collection and a room devoted to the underground stars of Flying Nun Records.

Railway Station HISTORIC BUILDING

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(Anzac Ave) Featuring mosaic-tile floors and glorious stained-glass windows, Dunedin’s striking bluestone railway station (built between 1903 and 1906) claims to be NZ’s most-photographed building. Head upstairs for the NZ Sports Hall of Fame (www.nzhalloffame.co.nz; Dunedin Railway Station; adult/child $5/2; 10am-4pm) , a small museum devoted to the nation’s obsession, and the Art Station OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (www.otagoartsociety.co.nz; 10am-4pm) , the local Art Society’s gallery and shop.

Dunedin Public Art Gallery GALLERY

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(www.dunedin.art.museum; 30 The Octagon; 10am-5pm; ) Explore NZ’s art scene at this expansive and airy gallery. Only a fraction of the collection is displayed at any given time, with most of the space given over to often-edgy temporary shows.

Speight’s Brewery BREWERY

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( 03-477 7697; www.speights.co.nz; 200 Rattray St; adult/child $25/10; noon, 2pm, 4pm & 6pm Jun-Sep, plus 5pm & 7pm Oct-May) Speight’s has been churning out beer on this site since the late 1800s. The 90-minute tour offers samples of six different brews, and there’s an option to combine a tour with a meal at the neighbouring Ale House (lunch/dinner $55/61).

Olveston HOUSE

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( 03-477 3320; www.olveston.co.nz; 42 Royal Tce; adult/child $19/9.50; tours 9.45am, 10.45am, noon, 1.30pm, 2.45pm & 4pm) Although it’s a youngster by European standards, this spectacular 1906 mansion provides a wonderful window into Dunedin’s past. Until 1966 it was the family home of the wealthy Theomin family, notable patrons of the arts who were heavily involved with endowing the Public Art Gallery.

This artistic bent is evident in Olveston’s grand interiors, which include works by Charles Goldie and Frances Hodgkins (a family friend). A particular passion was Japanese art, and the home is liberallly peppered with exquisite examples. The family was Jewish, and the grand dining table is set up as if for Shabbat dinner.

Entry is via fascinating guided tours; it pays to book ahead. There’s also a pretty little garden to explore.

Otago Museum MUSEUM

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(www.otagomuseum.govt.nz; 419 Great King St; admission by donation; 10am-5pm) The centrepiece of this august institution is Southern Land, Southern People, showcasing Otago’s cultural and physical past and present, from geology and dinosaurs to the modern day. The Tangata Whenua Maori gallery houses an impressive waka taua (war canoe), wonderfully worn old carvings, and some lovely pounamu (greenstone) weapons, tools and jewellery.

Other major galleries include Pacific Cultures, People of the World (including the requisite mummy), Nature, Maritime and the Animal Attic . The hands-on Discovery World (adult/child $10/5) is mainly aimed at kids, although the tropical forest, filled with colourful live butterflies, is an all-ages treat.

Check the timing of the daily guided tours ($12) and free gallery talks on the website.

Dunedin Botanic Garden GARDENS

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(www.dunedinbotanicgarden.co.nz; cnr Great King St & Opoho Rd; dawn-dusk) Dating from 1863, these 22 peaceful, grassy and shady hectares include rose gardens, rare natives, a four-hectare rhododendron dell, glasshouses, a playground and a cafe. Kids love tootling about on the Community Express ‘train’ (adult/child $3/1).

Baldwin St STREET

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The world’s steepest residential street (or so says the Guinness Book of World Records ), Baldwin St has a gradient of 1 in 2.86 (19°). From the city centre, head 2km north up Great King St to where the road branches sharp left to Timaru. Get in the right-hand lane and continue straight ahead. This becomes North Rd, and Baldwin St is on the right after 1km.

Activities

Swimming & Surfing

St Clair and St Kilda are both popular swimming beaches (though you need to watch for rips at St Clair). Both have consistently good left-hand breaks, and you’ll also find good surfing at Blackhead further south, and at Aramoana on Otago Harbour’s North Shore.

Moana Pool SWIMMING

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(60 Littlebourne Rd, Roslyn; adult/child $6/3; 6am-10pm Mon-Fri, 7am-7pm Sat & Sun) This indoor pool complex has waterslides, wave machines, a spa and a gym.

St Clair Hot Salt Water Pool SWIMMING

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(Esplanade, St Clair; adult/child $5.70/2.60; 7am-7pm Oct-Mar) This heated outdoor pool sits on the western headland of St Clair Beach.

Esplanade Surf School SURFING

( 0800 484 141; www.espsurfschool.co.nz; 1½hr group lessons $60, private instruction $120) Operating from a van parked at St Clair Beach in summer (call at other times), this experienced crew provides equipment and ­lessons.

Walking & Cycling

The Otago Tramping and Mountaineering Club (www.otmc.co.nz) organises weekend day and overnight tramps, often to the Silver Peaks Reserve north of Dunedin. Nonmembers are welcome, but must contact trip leaders beforehand.

Tunnel Beach Walkway WALKING

(Tunnel Beach Rd, Blackhead) This short but extremely steep track (15 minutes down, 30 back up) accesses a dramatic stretch of coast where the wild Pacific has carved sea stacks, arches and unusual formations out of the limestone. It takes its name from a hand-hewn stone tunnel at the bottom of the track, which civic father John Cargill had built to give his family access to secluded beachside picnics. Strong currents make swimming here dangerous.

The track is 7km southwest of central Dunedin. Head south on Princes St and continue as it crosses under the motorway and then a railway bridge. Turn right at the next traffic lights onto Hillside Rd and follow it until the end, then make a quick left then right onto Easther Cres. Stay on this road for 3.5km (it changes name several times) and then look for Tunnel Beach Rd on the left.

Mt Cargill-Bethunes
Gully Walkway WALKING

Yes, it’s possible to drive up 676m Mt Cargill, but that’s not the point. The track (3½ hours return) starts from Norwood St, which is accessed from North Rd. From Mt Cargill, a trail continues to the 10-million-year-old, lava-formed Organ Pipes and, after another half hour, to Mt Cargill Rd on the other side of the mountain.

Cycle World BICYCLE RENTAL

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( 03-477 7473; www.cycleworld.co.nz; 67 Lower Stuart St; per day $40; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) Rents out bikes, performs repairs and has mountain-biking information.

Tours

Tasty Tours TOUR

( 03-453 1455; www.tastytours.co.nz; adult/child from $99/59) Tuck into local seafood, cheese, chocolate and beer on specialised foodie tours.

Back to Nature Tours BUS TOUR

( 0800 286 000; www.backtonaturetours.co.nz) The full-day Royal Peninsula tour (adult/child $189/125) heads to points of interest around Dunedin before hitting the Otago Peninsula. Stops include Larnach Castle’s gardens (castle entry is extra), a pub lunch, Penguin Place and the Royal Albatross ­Centre. There’s also a half-day option which visits various bays and beaches (adult/child $79/55) and another tackling the Lovers Leap and Chasm tracks (adult/child $89/55). Tours depart from Port Chalmers, Dunedin i-SITE and centrally located accommodation.

First City Tours BUS TOUR

(adult/child $25/15; buses depart the i-SITE 9am, 10.30am, 1pm & 2.30pm) Double-decker bus tours loop around the city, stopping at the Otago Museum, Speight’s, Botanic Gardens and Baldwin St.

Walk Dunedin WALKING TOUR

( 03-434 3300; www.toituosm.com; 2hr walk $30; 10am) History-themed strolls around the city organised by the Settlers Museum. They depart from the i-SITE.

Sleeping

City Centre

Hogwartz HOSTEL $

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( 03-474 1487; www.hogwartz.co.nz; 277 Rattray St; dm $29, s $60, d with/without bathroom from $80/64, apt $110-165; ) The Catholic bishop’s residence from 1872 to 1999, this beautiful building is now a fascinating warren of comfortable and sunny rooms, many with harbour views. The old coach house and stables have recently been converted into swankier en suite rooms and apartments.

Chalet Backpackers HOSTEL $

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( 03-479 2075; www.chaletbackpackers.co.nz; 296 High St; dm/s/d $29/43/66; ) The kitchen of this rambling old building is big, sunny and festooned with flowers, and there’s also a compact garden, pool table, piano and rumours of a ghost. There are no en suite rooms but some have handbasins.

315 Euro MOTEL $$

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( 03-477 9929; www.eurodunedin.co.nz; 315 George St; d $160-200; ) This sleek complex is accessed by an unlikely-looking alley off Dunedin’s main retail strip. Choose from modern studios or larger one-bedroom apartments with full kitchens. Double glazing keeps George St’s irresistible buzz at bay.

Dunedin Palms Motel MOTEL $$

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( 03-477 8293; www.dunedinpalmsmotel.co.nz; 185-195 High St; units $155-250; ) A mercifully short stroll up from the city ­centre, the Palms has smartly renovated studio, one- and two-bedroom units arrayed around a central car park.

Fletcher Lodge B&B $$$

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( 03-477 5552; www.fletcherlodge.co.nz; 276 High St; s $295-500, d $335-595, apt $650-775; ) Originally home to one of NZ’s wealthiest industrialists, this gorgeous red-brick mansion is just minutes from the city, but the secluded gardens feel wonderfully remote. Rooms are elegantly trimmed with antique furniture and ornate plaster ceilings.

Brothers Boutique Hotel HOTEL $$$

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( 03-477 0043; www.brothershotel.co.nz; 295 Rattray St; d $170-395; ) Rooms in this 1920s Christian Brothers residence have been refurbished beyond any monk’s dreams, while still retaining many unique features. The chapel room ($320) includes the original arched stained-glass windows. There are great views from the rooftop units.

North Dunedin

Kiwi’s Nest HOSTEL $

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( 03-471 9540; www.kiwisnest.co.nz; 597 George St; dm $28, s with/without bathroom $60/45, d $80/70, apt $95; ) This wonderfully homely two-storey house has a range of tidy centrally heated rooms, some with en suites, fridges and kettles. Plus it’s a flat walk to the Octagon – something few Dunedin hostels can boast.

858 George St MOTEL $$

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( 03-474 0903; www.858george­streetmotel.co.nz; 858 George St; units $135-280; ) Cleverly designed to blend harmoniously with the neighbourhood’s two-storey Victorian houses, this top-quality motel complex has units ranging in size from studios to two bedrooms. Each has a terrace or small balcony.

Bluestone on George APARTMENTS $$$

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( 03-477 9201; www.bluestonedunedin.co.nz; 571 George St; apt $190-235; ) If you’re expecting an imposing old bluestone building, think again: this four-storey block couldn’t be more contemporary. The elegant studio units are decked out in muted tones, with kitchenettes, laundry facilities and tiny balconies.

St Clair

Majestic Mansions APARTMENTS $$

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( 03-456 5000; www.st-clair.co.nz; 15 Bedford St; apt $139-210; ) One street back from St Clair beach, this venerable 1920s apartment block has been thoroughly renovated, keeping the layout of the original little flats but sprucing them up with feature wallpaper and smart furnishings.

Hotel St Clair HOTEL $$$

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( 03-456 0555; www.hotelstclair.com; 24 Esplanade; r $205-255, ste $370; ) Soak up St Clair’s surfy vibe from the balcony of your chic room in this contemporary medium-­rise hotel. All but the cheapest have ocean views, and the beach is only metres from the front door.

Other Suburbs

Leith Valley Touring Park HOLIDAY PARK $

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( 03-467 9936; www.leithvalleytouringpark.co.nz; 103 Malvern St, Woodhaugh; sites $38, units with/without bathroom from $92/49; ) This holiday park is surrounded by native bush studded with walks, glow-worm caves and a small creek. Self-­contained modern motel units are spacious, and tourist flats are smaller but have a more rustic feel (linen required).

Roslyn Apartments APARTMENTS $$

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( 03-477 6777; www.roslynapartments.co.nz; 23 City Rd, Roslyn; 1-/2-bedroom apt $195/330; ) Modern decor and brilliant city and harbour views are on tap at these apartments, just a short walk from Roslyn’s eating strip. Leather furniture and designer kitchens add a touch of class.

Arden Street House B&B $$

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( 03-473 8860; www.ardenstreethouse.co.nz; 36 Arden St, North East Valley; s $75, d with/without bathroom $130/120; ) With crazy artworks, an organic garden, charming hosts and a porthole in the bathroom, this 1930s hilltop house makes a wonderfully eccentric base. To get here from the city, drive up North Rd, turn right into Glendining Ave and then left into Arden St.

Eating

Inexpensive Asian restaurants are clustered along George St; most do takeaways. Uphill from the Octagon, Roslyn has good restaurants and cafes, and the beachy ambience of St Clair is great for a lazy brunch.

City Centre

Otago Farmers Market MARKET $

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(www.otagofarmersmarket.org.nz; Dunedin Railway Station; 8am-12.30pm Sat) This thriving market is all local, all edible (or drinkable) and mostly organic. Grab felafels or espresso to sustain you while you browse, and stock up on fresh meats, seafood, vegies and cheese for your journey. Also pick up some locally brewed Green Man organic beer. Sorted.

The Good Oil CAFE $

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(314 George St; mains $9-17; 7.30am-4pm) This sleek little cafe is Dunedin’s top spot for coffee and cake. If you’re still waking up, kick-start the day with imaginative brunches such as kumara hash with hot smoked salmon.

Circadian Rhythm VEGAN, VEGETARIAN $

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(www.circadianrhythm.co.nz; 72 St Andrew St; mains $9-13; 11am-9pm Mon-Sat; ) Specialising in organic curries, felafels and stir-fries, this meat-free cafe is also a music venue, with jazz on Friday nights from 5.30pm. Dunedin’s Emerson’s and Green Man beers are both available, so you don’t have to be too healthy.

Best Cafe FISH & CHIPS $

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(www.facebook.com/bestcafedunedin; 30 Stuart St; takeaways $6-10, mains $10-23; 11am-2.30pm & 5-8pm Mon-Sat) Serving up fish and chips since 1932, this local stalwart has its winning formula down pat, complete with vinyl tablecloths, hand-cut chips and curls of butter on white bread. If there are a few of you, try the ‘Old School’ platter ($43).

Velvet Burger BURGERS $

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(www.velvetburger.co.nz; 150 Stuart St; mains $9-16; 11.30am-late) Well positioned for the postbeer crowd, Velvet Burger’s gourmet offerings are an excellent alcohol sop, especially the mammoth Goneburger (beef, chicken and bacon). There’s another VB at 375 George St (same hours).

Modaks Espresso CAFE, BAR $

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(337-339 George St; mains $9-16; 7.30am-4pm; ) This funky little place with brick walls, mismatched Formica tables and couches for slouching is popular with students and those who appreciate chilled-out reggae while they nurse a pot of tea. Plump toasted bagels warm the insides in winter.

Saigon Van VIETNAMESE $

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(66 St Andrew St; mains $9-19; 11.30am-2pm & 5-9pm Tue-Sun) The decor looks ­high-end Asian, but the food is definitely budget-­friendly. Try the combination spring rolls and a bottle of Vietnamese beer to re-create lazy nights in Saigon. The bean-sprout-laden pho (noodle soup) and salads are also good.

Etrusco at the Savoy ITALIAN $$

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( 03-477 3737; www.etrusco.co.nz; 8a Moray Pl; mains $17-21; 5.30pm-late) NZ has very few dining rooms to match the Edwardian elegance of the Savoy, with its moulded ceilings, stained-glass crests, brass chandeliers, green Ionian columns and fabulously over-the-top lamps. Pizza and pasta might seem like an odd fit, but Etrusco’s deliciously rustic dishes absolutely hold their own.

Nova Cafe CAFE $$

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( 03-479 0808; www.novadunedin.co.nz; 29 The Octagon; breakfast $15-18, lunch $18-24, dinner $18-34; 7am-11pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-10pm Sat & Sun) Not surprisingly, this extension of the art gallery has a stylish look about it. Start the day with the interesting breakfast selections, dabble in some Asian flavours for lunch, then finish the day with bistro-style grills and a glass of wine.

Miga KOREAN $$

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( 03-477 4770; www.migadunedin.co.nz; 4 Hanover St; mains $16-39; 11am-2pm & 5-10pm Mon-Sat) Settle into a booth at this attractive brick-lined eatery, and order claypot rice or noodle dishes from the extensive menu. Otherwise go for broke and cook a Korean barbecue right at your table.

Scotia MODERN SCOTTISH $$

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( 03-477 7704; www.scotiadunedin.co.nz; 199 Stuart St; mains $18-32; 4pm-late Tue-Sun) Occupying a cosy heritage townhouse, Scotia toasts all things Scottish with a wall full of single-malt whisky and hearty fare such as smoked salmon and Otago hare. The two Scottish Robbies – Burns and Coltrane – look down approvingly on a menu that also includes haggis and whisky-laced pâté.

Paasha TURKISH $$

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(www.paasha.co.nz; 32 St Andrew St; lunch $12-20, dinner $21-34) Authentic Turkish kebabs, dips and salads are faithfully created at this long-running Dunedin favourite. It’s a top place for takeaways, and most nights the spacious and warm interior is filled with groups drinking Efes beer and sharing heaving platters of tasty Ottoman goodness.

Izakaya Yuki JAPANESE, BAR $$

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(29 Bath St; dishes $5-10; noon-2pm Mon-Fri, 5pm-2.30am daily; ) Cute and cosy, with a huge array of small dishes on which to graze, Yuki is a lovely spot for supper or a relaxed, drawn-out Japanese meal. Make a night of it with sake or Asahi beer, sushi and sashimi, and multiple plates of kushiyaki (grilled skewers).

Plato MODERN NZ $$$

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( 03-477 4235; www.platocafe.co.nz; 2 Birch St; brunch $16-22, dinner $32-33; 11am-2pm Sun, 6pm-late daily) The kooky decor (including collections of toys and beer ­tankards) gives little indication of the seriously good food on offer at this relaxed eatery by the harbour. Seafood features prominently in a menu full of international flavours.

Two Chefs Bistro FRENCH $$$

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(www.twochefsbistro.com; 121 Stuart St; mains $34-37; noon-3pm Fri, 6-10pm daily) French bistro dishes flirt with Asian and North African flavours on the plate, while high ceilings and dark wood conjure up a romantic ambience. The service is the opposite of French stereotypes: delightful but not always efficient. Save room for dessert.

North Dunedin

Everyday Gourmet CAFE, DELI $

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(www.everydaygourmet.net.nz; 466 George St; mains $7-16; 8am-5pm) Apart from cooked breakfasts, most of the goodies beckon from the counter of this excellent bakery-­style cafe and deli. It’s light, bright and ­extremely popular, with a good selection of magazines and newspapers.

Governor’s CAFE $$

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(438 George St; mains $10-19; 7am-4pm) Popular with students, Governor’s does a nice line in early-morning pancakes and other light meals. If you’re feeling a little off the pace after the previous night, a strong coffee and a mixed grill are just what the doctor ordered.

Other Suburbs

No 7 Balmac CAFE $$

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( 03-464 0064; www.no7balmac.co.nz; 7 Balmacewen Rd, Maori Hill; brunch $15-25, dinner $28-37; 7am-late Mon-Fri, 8.30am-late Sat, 8.30am-5pm Sun) We wouldn’t recommend walking to this sophisticated cafe at the top of Maori Hill; luckily it’s well worth the price of a cab. The fancy fare stretches to the likes of venison pie and dry-aged beef. If you’re on a diet, avoid eye contact with the sweets cabinet.

Starfish CAFE, BAR $$

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( 03-455 5940; www.starfishcafe.co.nz; 7/240 Forbury Rd, St Clair; brunch $14-20, dinner $20-30; 7am-5pm Sun-Tue, to late Wed-Sat) Starfish is the coolest creature in the growing restaurant scene at St Clair Beach. Pop out on a weekday to score an outside table, and tuck into gourmet pizza and wine. Dinner is a more sophisticated beast.

Luna MODERN NZ $$$

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( 03-477 2227; www.lunaroslyn.co.nz; 314 Highgate, Roslyn; lunch $14-25, dinner $34-37; noon-late) Make the trek to Roslyn for an inventive menu and outstanding harbour views in this glass-encased hilltop pavilion; ask for a window seat when you book. A more relaxed option is a drink in the classy bar, accompanied by selections from the ‘Luna Bites’ menu.

Drinking & Nightlife

Mou Very BAR

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(www.facebook.com/MouVeryBar; 357 George St; 7am-12.30pm) Welcome to one of the world’s smallest bars – it’s only 1.8m wide, but is still big enough to host regular DJs, live bands and poetry readings. There are just six bar stools, so patrons spill out into an adjacent laneway. By day, it’s a handy caffeine-refuelling spot.

Albar BAR

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(135 Stuart St; 11am-late) This former butcher is now a bohemian little bar attracting maybe the widest age range in Dunedin. Most punters are drawn by the many single-malt whiskies, interesting tap beers and cheap-as-chips bar snacks ($6 to $9).

Di Lusso COCKTAIL BAR

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(www.dilusso.co.nz; 117 Stuart St; 4pm-3am Mon-Sat) Upmarket and designery with wood panelling, chandeliers and a backlit drinks display, Di Lusso serves seriously good cocktails. DJs play from Thursday to Saturday.

Carousel COCKTAIL BAR

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(www.carouselbar.co.nz; upstairs 141 Stuart St; 5pm-late Tue-Sat) Tartan wallpaper, a roof deck and great cocktails leave the dressed-up clientele looking pleased to be seen somewhere so deadly cool. DJs spin deep house until late on the weekends, and there’s live jazz on Friday evenings.

Stuart St Mac’s Brewbar BAR

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(www.stuartst.co.nz; 12 The Octagon; 10am-late) Nelson’s Mac’s brewery is making a strike deep into Speights’ territory in the form of this funky bar right on the Octagon. It’s the sunniest spot for an afternoon drink, and after the sun sets there’s often live music.

Speight’s Ale House PUB

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(www.thealehouse.co.nz; 200 Rattray St; 11.30am-late) Busy even in the nonuniversity months, the Ale House is a favourite of strapping young lads in their cleanest dirty shirts. It’s a good spot to watch the rugby on TV and to try the full range of Speight’s beers.

Pequeno COCKTAIL BAR

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(www.pequeno.co.nz; behind 12 Moray Pl; 5pm-late Mon-Fri, 7pm-late Sat & Sun) Down the alleyway opposite the Rialto cinema, Pequeno attracts a sophisticated crowd with leather couches, a cosy fireplace and an excellent wine and tapas menu. Music is generally laid-back and there’s live jazz on Fridays.

Tonic BAR

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(www.tonicbar.co.nz; 138 Princes St; 4pm-late Tue-Fri, 6pm-late Sat) Limited-release Kiwi craft beers, single-malt whiskies and good cocktails appeal to a different crowd than Dunedin’s numerous student pubs. Antipasto plates, cheeseboards and pizza are good reasons to stay for another drink.

Urban Factory CLUB

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(www.urbanfactory.co.nz; 101 Great King St; 10pm-3am) The hippest of NZ’s touring bands, regular DJ sessions and carefully crafted cocktails.

Pop CLUB

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(downstairs, 14 The Octagon; 10pm-late Wed-Sat) Pop serves Dunedin’s best martinis and prides itself on seriously good DJs playing funk and house.

Entertainment

Metro Cinema CINEMA

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( 03-471 9635; www.metrocinema.co.nz; Moray Pl; adult/student $13/12) Within the town hall, Metro shows art-house and foreign flicks.

Rialto Cinemas CINEMA

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( 03-474 2200; www.rialto.co.nz; 11 Moray Pl; adult/child $16/10) Blockbusters and art-house flicks. Rates often cheaper on Tuesdays.

Fortune Theatre THEATRE

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( 03-477 8323; www.fortunetheatre.co.nz; 231 Stuart St) The world’s southernmost professional theatre company has been staging dramas, comedies, pantomimes, classics and contemporary NZ productions for almost 40 years. Shows are performed – watched over by the obligatory theatre ghost – in a Gothic-style old Wesleyan church.

Sammy’s LIVE MUSIC

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(65 Crawford St) Dunedin’s premier live-music venue draws an eclectic mix of genres from noisy-as-hell punk to chilled reggae and gritty dubstep. It’s the venue of choice for visiting Kiwi bands and up-and-coming international acts.

Forsyth Barr Stadium STADIUM

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(www.forsythbarrstadium.co.nz; 130 Anzac Ave) Constructed for the 2011 Rugby World Cup, this is the only major stadium in NZ with a fully covered roof. It’s the home ground for the Highlanders Super 15 rugby team (www.thehighlanders.co.nz) and the Otago rugby team (www.orfu.co.nz).

Shopping

George St is Dunedin’s main shopping strip.

Gallery De Novo ARTS & CRAFTS

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(www.gallerydenovo.co.nz; 91 Stuart St; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) This interesting, contemporary fine-art gallery is worth a look, whether you’re likely to invest in a substantial piece of Kiwi art or not.

Stuart St Potters Cooperative ARTS & CRAFTS

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(14 Stuart St; 10am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat) Locally designed and made pottery and ceramic art.

Bivouac Outdoor OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

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(www.bivouac.co.nz; 171 George St; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) Clothing, footwear and rugged gear.

University Book Shop BOOKS

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(www.unibooks.co.nz; 378 Great King St; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3pm Sat & Sun) Dunedin’s best bookshop, with lots of Maori, Pacific and NZ titles.

Information

Medical Services

Dunedin Hospital ( 03-474 0999, emergency department 0800 611 116; www.southerndhb.govt.nz; 201 Great King St)

Urgent Doctors & Accident Centre ( 03-479 2900; www.dunedinurgentdoctors.com; 95 Hanover St; 8am-11.30pm) There’s also a late-night pharmacy next door.

Tourist Information

DOC Visitor Centre (Department of Conservation; ; 03-477 0677; www.doc.govt.nz; 1st fl, 77 Stuart St; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Information and maps on regional walking tracks, Great Walks bookings and hut tickets.

Dunedin i-SITE ( 03-474 3300; www.isitedunedin.co.nz; 26 Princes St; 8.30am-5pm)

Getting There & Away

Air

For information on international flights, Click here . Domestic options include the following:

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) Flies to/from Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch.

Jetstar ( 0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) Flies to/from Auckland.

Bus

Buses and shuttles leave from the Dunedin Railway Station, except where we’ve noted otherwise.

InterCity ( 03-471 7143; www.intercity.co.nz; 7 Halsey St) Coaches to/from Christchurch (from $40, six hours) and Oamaru (from $14, 40 minutes) twice daily, and Cromwell (from $20, 3¼ hours), Queenstown (from $22, 4¼ hours) and Te Anau (from $37, 4½ hours) daily.

Alpine Connexions ( 03-443 9120; www.alpineconnexions.co.nz) Shuttles head to/from Alexandra ($40), Clyde ($40), Cromwell ($45), Queenstown ($45) and Wanaka ($45), as well as key stops on the Otago Central Rail Trail.

Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) To/from Christchurch (from $30, 5¾ hours), Oamaru ($20, 1¾ hours), Cromwell ($30, 3¾ hours), Wanaka ($35, 4½ hours) and Invercargill ($37, 3¼ hours).

Catch-a-Bus ( 03-449-2024; www.catchabus.co.nz) Door-to-door shuttle between Dunedin and Cromwell stopping at Otago Central Rail Trail towns along the way. Bikes can be transported.

Coast Line Tours ( 03-434 7744; www.coastline-tours.co.nz) Shuttles to Oamaru ($30) depart from the Octagon; detours to Dunedin airport and Moeraki can be arranged.

Knightrider ( 03-342 8055; www.knightrider.co.nz) Has a bus most nights to/from Christ­church ($50, six hours), Christchurch Airport ($55, 5½ hours), Timaru ($44, 3¼ hours), Moeraki ($33, 1¼ hours) and Oamaru ($33, two hours).

Train

Two interesting train journeys start at Dunedin’s railway station (Click here): the Taieri Gorge Railway (Click here) and the Seasider (www.seasider.co.nz; 1-way/return $59/89) . The latter journeys up the coast to Palmerston and back.

Getting Around

To & From the Airport

Dunedin Airport (DUD; 03-486 2879; www.flydunedin.com; Airport Rd, Momona) is 27km southwest of the city. A standard taxi ride between the city and the airport costs $80 to $90. There is no public bus service. For door-to-door shuttles, try Kiwi Shuttles ( 03-487 9790; www.kiwishuttles.co.nz; per 1/2/3/4 passengers $20/36/48/60) or Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz; per 1/2/3/4 passengers $25/35/45/55) .

Bus

Dunedin’s GoBus ( 03-474 0287; www.orc.govt.nz; adult fare $2-6.70) network extends across the city. It’s particularly handy for getting to St Clair, St Kilda, Port Chalmers and as far afield as Portobello on the Otago Peninsula. Buses run regularly during the week, but ser­vices are greatly reduced (or nonexistent) on weekends and holidays.

Car

The big rental companies all have offices in Dunedin, and inexpensive local outfits include Get Away ( 03-489 7614; www.getawaycarhire.co.nz) and Driven Rentals ( 03-453 6576; www.drivenrentals.co.nz) .

Taxi

Dunedin Taxis ( 03-477 7777; www.dunedintaxis.co.nz)

Otago Taxis ( 03-477 3333)

Around Dunedin

Port Chalmers & Around

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Little Port Chalmers is only 13km out of Dunedin but it feels a world away. Somewhere between working class and bohemian, Port Chalmers has a history as a port town but has increasingly attracted Dunedin’s arty types. Dunedin’s best rock-and-roll pub, Chick’s Hotel OFFLINE MAP (2 Mount St; 4pm-1am Wed-Sun) is an essential after-dark destination, and daytime attractions include a few raffish cafes, design stores and galleries.

Sights & Activities

Traditional rock climbing (nonbolted) is popular at Long Beach and the cliffs at Mihiwaka, both accessed via Blueskin Rd north of Port Chalmers.

Orokonui Ecosanctuary WILDLIFE RESERVE

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-482 1755; www.orokonui.org.nz; 600 Blueskin Rd; adult/child $16/8; 9.30am-4.30pm) This 307-hectare predator-free nature reserve encloses cloud forest on the mountainous ridge above Port Chalmers and stretches to the estuary on the opposite side. Its mission is to provide a mainland refuge for species usually exiled to offshore islands for their own protection. Rare bird species include kiwi, saddlebacks, takahe and kaka, while reptiles include tuatara and Otago skinks.

Visiting options include self-guided tours, hour-long guided tours (adult/child $30/15; departing daily at 11am and 1.30pm) and two-hour guided tours (adult/child $45/22; departing daily at 11pm). You’ll need to book ahead for the two-hour twilight tours (adult/child $69/39). It’s a well-signposted 6km drive from the main road into Port Chalmers.

Hare Hill HORSE RIDING

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-472 8496; www.horseriding-dunedin.co.nz; 207 Aramoana Rd; treks $80-160) Horse treks include thrilling beach rides and farm treks.

Sleeping

Billy Brown’s HOSTEL

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-472 8323; www.billybrowns.co.nz; 423 Aramoana Rd, Hamilton Bay; dm/d $30/75) On a farm 5km further along the road from Port Chalmers, this hostel has magnificent views across the harbour to the peninsula. There’s a lovely rustic shared lounge with cosy wood-burner, and plenty of retro vinyl to spin. If you’re not comfortable with big dogs, look elsewhere.

Getting There & Away

On weekdays, 15 buses travel between Dunedin’s Cumberland St and Port Chalmers, with two additional services on Friday nights (adult/child $4.70/2.70). On Saturdays this reduces to 11, and on Sundays to three.

Otago Peninsula

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The Otago Peninsula has the South Island’s most accessible diversity of wildlife. Albatross, penguins, fur seals and sea lions are some of the highlights, as well as rugged countryside, wild walks, beaches and interesting historical sites. Despite a host of tours exploring the peninsula, the area maintains its quiet rural air. Call into the Dunedin i-SITE (Click here) for brochures and maps, or visit www.otago-peninsula.co.nz.

Sights

Royal Albatross Centre
& Fort Taiaroa WILDLIFE RESERVE

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-478 0499; www.albatross.org.nz; Taiaroa Head; 11.30am-dusk) Taiaroa Head, at the peninsula’s northern tip, has the world’s only mainland royal albatross colony, along with a late-19th-century military fort. The fort was built in 1885 in response to a perceived threat of a Russian invasion. Its Armstrong Disappearing Gun was designed to be loaded and aimed underground, then popped up like the world’s slowest jack-in-the-box to be fired.

Albatross are present throughout the year, but the best time to see them is from December to February, when one parent is constantly guarding the young while the other delivers food throughout the day. Sightings are most common in the afternoon when the winds pick up; calm days don’t see much bird action. The main glassed-in observation area is closed during the breeding season, from mid-September to late November. From late November to December the birds are nestbound so it’s difficult to see their magnificent wingspan.

The only public access to the area is by guided tour. The hour-long Classic tour (adult/child $39/19) focuses on the albatross, or there’s a 30-minute Fort tour (adult/child $19/9); the two can be combined on the Unique tour ($49/24).

Little penguins swim ashore at Pilots Beach (just below the car park) around dusk to head to their nests in the dunes. For their protection, the beach is closed to the public every evening, but viewing is possible from a specially constructed wooden platform (adult/child $20/10). Depending on the time of year, 50 to 500 penguins might waddle past.

Nature’s Wonders Naturally WILDLIFE RESERVE

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-478 1150; www.natureswonders.co.nz; Taiaroa Head; adult/child $55/45; tours from 10.15am) What makes the improbably beautiful beaches of this coastal sheep farm different from other important wildlife habitats is that (apart from pest eradication and the like) they’re left completely alone. No tagging or weighing is carried out, and many of the multiple private beaches haven’t suffered a human footprint in years.

The result is that yellow-eyed penguins can often be spotted (through binoculars) at any time of the day, and NZ fur seals laze around rocky swimming holes, blissfully unphased by tour groups passing by. Depending on the time of year, you might also see whales and little penguin chicks.

The tour is conducted in ‘go-anywhere’ Argos vehicles by enthusiastic guides, at least some of which double as true-blue Kiwi farmers. If you don’t believe it, ask about the sheep-shed experience (price on ­application).

Penguin Place WILDLIFE RESERVE

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-478 0286; www.penguinplace.co.nz; 45 Pakihau Rd; adult/child $49/15) Situated on private farmland, this reserve protects nesting sites of the yellow-eyed penguin. Ninety-minute tours focus on penguin conservation and close-up viewing from a system of hides. Between October and March, tours run regularly from 10.15am to 90 minutes before sunset. Between April and September they run from 3.15pm to 4.45pm. Bookings are recommended.

Larnach Castle CASTLE

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-476 1616; www.larnachcastle.co.nz; 145 Camp Rd; castle & grounds adult/child $28/10, grounds only $13/4; 9am-7pm Oct-Mar, to 5pm Apr-Sep) Standing proudly on top of a hill, this gorgeous Gothic Revival mansion was built in 1871 by Dunedin banker, merchant and Member of Parliament William Larnach, to impress his wife, who descended from French nobility. It didn’t bring him much happiness, however. After his first two wives died and his third was rumoured to be having an affair with his son, Larnach shot himself in a committee room in Parliament in 1898. His son later followed suit.

The mansion is filled with intricate woodwork and exquisite antique furnishings, and the crenelated tower offers expansive views of the peninsula. A self-guided tour brochure is provided with admission, or you can buy an iPhone tour app which peoples the rooms with costumed actors ($5). After lording it about in the mansion, take a stroll through the pretty gardens or settle in for the 3pm high tea in the ballroom cafe.

Glenfalloch Woodland Garden GARDENS

OFFLINE MAP

(www.glenfalloch.co.nz; 430 Portobello Rd; adult/child $5/free; 9.30am-dusk) Expect spectacular harbour views at this 12-­hectare garden, filled with flowers, walking tracks and swaying mature trees, including a 1000-year-old matai. The Portobello bus stops out the front.

Activities

The peninsula’s coastal and farmland walkways offer blissful views and the chance of spotting some wildlife; pick up or download the DOC Walks Around Dunedin brochure. A popular walking destination is beautiful Sandfly Bay, reached from Seal Point Rd (moderate, one hour return). From the end of Sandymount Rd, you can follow a trail to the impressive Chasm (20 minutes). Note that the Lovers Leap track and the Chasm track at Sandymount are closed from August to October for lambing.

Wild Earth Adventures KAYAKING

( 03-489 1951; www.wildearth.co.nz; trips from $115) Offers trips in double sea kayaks, with wildlife often sighted en route. Trips take between three hours and a full day, with pick-ups from the Octagon in Dunedin.

Tours

Elm Wildlife Tours TOUR

( 03-454 4121; www.elmwildlifetours.co.nz; tours from $105) Well-regarded, small-group, wildlife-focused tours, with options to add the Royal Albatross Centre or a Monarch Cruise. Pick-up and drop-off from Dunedin is included.

Monarch Wildlife Cruises & Tours BOAT TOUR

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-477 4276; www.wildlife.co.nz) One-hour boat trips from Wellers Rock (adult/child $49/22), and half- ($89/32) and full-day ($235/118) tours from Dunedin. You may spot sea lions, penguins, albatross and seals.

Sleeping

McFarmers Backpackers HOSTEL $

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-478 0389; www.otago-peninsula.co.nz; 774 Portobello Rd; s $53, d & tw $66-76, cottages $120-150) On a working sheep farm with harbour views, this rustic timber lodge and self-contained cottage are steeped in character and feel instantly like home. The Portobello bus goes past the gate.

Penguin Place Lodge HOSTEL $

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-478 0286; www.penguinplace.co.nz; 45 Pakihau Rd; adult/child $30/12) Atop a quiet hill surrounded by farmland, this lodge has a good shared kitchen, a bright lounge, and basic double and twin rooms. There are views across the farm and harbour, and you’re next-door neighbours with the penguins. Linen costs $5 extra.

Portobello Motel MOTEL $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-478 0155; www.portobellomotels.com; 10 Harington Point Rd; d $145-160; ) These sunny modern, self-contained units are just off the main road in Portobello. Studio units have small decks overlooking the bay. Spacious one- and two-bedroom units are also available, but lack the views.

Larnach Castle Lodge LODGE $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-476 1616; www.larnachcastle.co.nz; 145 Camp Rd; r stable/lodge/estate $155/280/420; ) Larnach Castle’s back-garden lodge has 12 individually, whimsically decorated rooms. Less frivolous are the atmospheric rooms in the 140-year-old stables. A few hundred metres from the castle, Camp Estate country house has luxury suites worthy of a romantic splurge. Rates for each option include breakfast and castle entry, and dinner in the castle can be arranged.

Kaimata Retreat LODGE $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-456 3443; www.kaimatanz.com; 297 Cape Saunders Rd; bach/r/lodge $160/525/1500; ) This luxury ecolodge has three rooms overlooking a gloriously isolated inlet on the eastern edge of the peninsula. Tours can be arranged, and a chef is available in summer for evening meals. For a cheaper option with similar views, book Betty’s Bach, a retro self-contained holiday house nearby.

Eating

1908 Cafe RESTAURANT $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 03-478 0801; www.1908cafe.co.nz; 7 Harington Point Rd; lunch $13-24, dinner $31-34; 11.30am-2pm Wed-Sun, 6-10pm daily) Salmon, venison and steak are joined by fresh fish and blackboard specials at this casual, friendly restaurant. At lunch they’re replaced by cafe fare, such as soup and toasted sandwiches. The venerable interiors are cheerfully embellished with local art.

Portobello Hotel & Bistro PUB $$

OFFLINE MAP

(www.portobellohotelandbistro.co.nz; 2 Harington Point Rd; lunch $13-19, dinner $24-29; 11.30am-late) Refreshing thirsty travellers since 1874, the Portobello pub is still a popular pit stop. Grab a table in the sun and tuck into seafood chowder, a burger, a felafel wrap or a steak.

Getting There & Around

On weekdays, 13 buses travel between Dunedin’s Cumberland St and Portobello Village (adult/child $5.80/3.40). On Saturdays this reduces to 10, and on Sundays to four. Once on the peninsula, it’s tough to get around without your own transport. Most tours will pick you up from your Dunedin accommodation.

There’s no petrol on the peninsula.

Central Otago

Rolling hills that turn from green to gold in the relentless summer sun provide a backdrop to a succession of tiny, charming gold-rush towns where rugged, laconic ‘Southern Man’ types can be seen propping up the bar in lost-in-time pubs. As well as being one of the country’s top wine regions, there are fantastic opportunities for those on two wheels, whether mountain biking along old gold-mining trails or traversing the district on the Otago Central Rail Trail.