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Getting There & Around

Air

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) Daily flights from Auckland to Whangarei, Kerikeri and Kaitaia, and from Wellington to Whangarei.

Great Barrier Airlines ( 0800 900 600, 09-275 9120; www.greatbarrierairlines.co.nz) Friday and Sunday flights from November to March that link Whangarei to Great Barrier Island.

Bus

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz) InterCity and associated Northliner services head from Auckland to Kerikeri via Waipu, Whangarei and Paihia; and from Paihia to Kaitaia via Kerikeri, Mangonui and Coopers Beach.

Naked Bus ( 09-006 2533; www.nakedbus.com) Daily buses from Auckland to Paihia (3¾ hours), via Warkworth, Waipu, Whangarei and Kawakawa. Note that calls to this number cost $1.99 per minute.

West Coaster ( 021 380 187) Weekday shuttles linking Whangarei and Dargaville.

Whangarei District

To truly experience this area you’ll need to get wet, and scores of beaches offer opportunities for swimming, surfing or just splashing about. The hot spots heave with Kiwi holidaymakers at peak times, but even then it’s possible to find isolated stretches of sand where your footprints are the only ones.

North of Whangarei, the Tutukaka Coast is one of the planet’s top three coastlines, according to National Geographic Traveler magazine, and the late Jacques Cousteau rated the neighbouring Poor Knights Islands as one of the world’s best dive sites.

Online, see www.whangareinz.com.

Mangawhai

Pop 2400

Mangawhai Village sits at the base of a horseshoe harbour, but it’s Mangawhai Heads, 5km further on, that’s really special.

Various Maori tribes inhabited the area before the 1660s, when Ngati Whatua became dominant. In 1807, Ngati Whatua defeated Ngapuhi from the north in a major battle, letting the survivors escape. One of them was Hongi Hika, who in 1825 returned, armed with muskets obtained from Europeans. The ensuing bloodbath all but annihilated Ngati Whatua and the district became tapu (sacred, taboo). British squatters moved in and were rewarded with land titles by the government in the 1850s. Ceremonies were only performed to lift the tapu in the 1990s.

Sights & Activities

Mangawhai Heads BEACH

A narrow spit of sand stretches for kilometres to form the harbour’s south head, sheltering a seabird sanctuary. Across the water sits the holiday town with a surf beach at its northern tip. Lifesavers patrol on weekends in summer and daily during school holidays, but it’s not especially dangerous.

Mangawhai Museum MUSEUM

(www.mangawhai-museum.org.nz; Molesworth Dr; admission by donation; 10.30am-1pm Thu-Sun) Scheduled to open by the time you read this, the Mangawhai Historical Society’s new museum occupies a spectacular building on the main road that links Mangawhai Village to Mangawhai Heads; check out the roof shaped like a stingray.

Mangawhai Cliff Top Walkway TRAMPING

Starting at Mangawhai Heads, this track affords extensive views of sea and land. It takes two to three hours, provided you time it with a return down the beach at low tide. This is part of Te Araroa, the national walking track.

Sleeping

Coastal Cow Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 09-431 5246; www.mangawhaibackpackers.com; 299 Molesworth Dr, Mangawhai Heads; dm $28, s $55-88, d & tw $66-95) This homely hostel has simple rooms decorated with a quirky bovine theme. There’s also a self-contained unit ($95).

Milestone Cottages APARTMENTS $$

( 09-431 4018; www.milestonecottages.co.nz; 27 Moir Pt Rd, Mangawhai Heads; apt $125-170; ) A Pasifika paradise, with lush tropical gardens and self-contained apartments. A walking track leads to a compact beach that’s great for swimming and kayaking.

Mangawhai Lodge B&B $$$

( 09-431 5311; www.seaviewlodge.co.nz; 4 Heather St, Mangawhai Heads; s/d $185/190, unit $175-220; ) Smartly furnished rooms have access to a picture-perfect wraparound verandah at this boutique B&B, which also features great views.

Eating & Drinking

Mangawhai Market MARKET $

(Moir St; 9am-1pm Sat) Held in the library hall in Mangawhai Village, this is a good place to stock up on organic produce (including wine and olive oil) and peruse local craft. Another market is held on Sunday mornings in the Mangawhai Heads Domain from mid-October to Easter.

Bennetts CAFE $$

( 09-431 5072; www.bennettsofmangawhai.com; 52 Moir St, Mangawhai Village; mains $13-23; shop 9.30am-4.30pm, cafe 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, from 8.30am Sat & Sun) Rural Europe comes to Mangawhai at this atmospheric chocolaterie , gelateria and cafe, where you can sit by the fountain while dining on French and Italian flavours and sipping a glass of wine.

Sail Rock Cafe CAFE $$

(12a Wood St, Mangawhai Heads; mains $13-32; 9.30am-late, closed Wed outside of summer) The standout here is the salt-and-pepper squid, plus there are Kiwi craft brews on tap and dairy-free and gluten-free menu options. Good pizzas ($13 to $25) are also available for take away.

Frog & Kiwi CAFE $$

(www.facebook.com/FrogAndKiwiRestaurant; The Hub, 6 Molesworth Dr, Mangawhai Village; breakfast & lunch $9-21, dinner $32-38; 9am-2.30am & 6-10pm) This French-Kiwi cafe and bistro does great counter food, good-value $12 lunch specials – also available to take away – and more refined French classics at night.

Mangawhai Tavern PUB, LIVE MUSIC

(www.mangawhaitavern.co.nz; Moir St; 11am-late) One of the country’s oldest pubs – built in 1865 – the tavern’s harbourside location is a top spot for an afternoon beer. There’s live music most Saturday nights and Sunday afternoons, and across the Christmas-New Year period some of NZ’s top bands rock the garden bar.

Information

Visitor Information Centre ( 09-431 5090; www.mangawhai.co.nz) Staffed sporadically (mainly on weekends and in summer), but there are information boards outside.

Waipu & Bream Bay

Pop 1854

The original 934 British settlers came to Waipu from Scotland via Nova Scotia (Canada) between 1853 and 1860. These dour Scots had the good sense to eschew frigid Otago, where so many of their kindred settled, for sunnier northern climes. The story comes to life through holograms, a short film and interactive displays at the Waipu Museum (www.waipumuseum.co.nz; 36 The Centre; adult/child $8/3; 10am-4pm) .

Only 10% of current residents are direct descendants of the original Scots, but there’s a big get-together on 1 January every year, when the Highland Games (www.waipugames.co.nz; adult/child $15/5) , established in 1871, take place in Caledonian Park. Just south of Waipu township, there’s good swimming at Waipu Cove and Langs Beach.

There are also excellent walks in the area, including the Waipu Coastal Trail, which heads south from Waipu Cove – around to Langs Beach, passing the Pancake Rocks on the way. The 2km Waipu Caves Walking Track starts at Ormiston Rd and passes through farmland and a scenic reserve en route to a large cave containing glowworms and limestone formations; bring a torch, a compass and sturdy footwear to delve the depths.

Bream Bay has miles of blissfully deserted beach, blighted only slightly by a giant oil refinery at the north end. At Uretiti, a stretch of beach south of a DOC campsite (www.doc.govt.nz; SH1; sites per adult/child $10/5) is unofficially considered ‘clothing optional’. Over New Year the crowd is evenly split between Kiwi families, serious European nudists and gay guys.

Sleeping

Waipu Wanderers Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 09-432 0532; www.waipu-hostel.co.nz; 25 St Marys Rd; dm/s/d $30/45/66; ) There are only three rooms at this friendly backpackers in Waipu township. Look forward to free fruit in season.

Ruakaka Reserve Motor Camp HOLIDAY PARK $

( 09-432 7590; www.motorcamp.co.nz; 21 Ruakaka Beach Rd; sites from $30, cabins $50-90; ) Priced and positioned somewhere between a DOC campsite and a holiday park, this ginormous motor camp offers simple facilities on a grassy area fronting the beach and rivermouth at Ruakaka.

Stonehouse GUESTHOUSE $$

( 09-432 0432; www.stonehousewaipu.co.nz; 641 Cove Rd; apt $80-160; ) Nestled between the road to Waipu Cove and a saltwater lagoon, this Cornish-style house built of stone slabs offers three brightly decorated, self-­contained units. They range from the ­budget-orientated ‘cutesy’ (with a double sofa bed and six bunks), to more comfortable rooms which can be rented individually or as a three-room apartment.

Eating

Cafe Deli CAFE $

(29 The Centre; mains $10-22; 9am-4pm) Enticing salads, pasta, muffins and organic, fairtrade coffee are served at this attractive little cafe on Waipu’s main drag.

Pizza Barn ITALIAN $$

(2 Cove Rd; mains $19-30; 11.30am-late Wed-Sun Apr-Nov, daily Dec-Mar) Popular platters, light fare and great pizzas ($12 to 26) go well with cold beer when this cool place morphs into a bar.

Two Fish Cafe CAFE $$

(www.twofishcafe.co.nz; 910 Cove Rd; mains $18-30; 9am-8pm Thu-Sun Apr-Jun & Aug-Dec, 9am-late daily Jan-Mar, closed Jul) Grab a spot on the deck of this heritage cottage near Waipu Cove and devour excellent home baking, good pizzas and quite possibly Northland’s best gourmet fish burger.

Information

Tourist brochures and internet access are available at the museum.

Getting There & Away

Waipu Cove can be reached by a particularly scenic route that heads from Mangawhai Heads through Langs Beach. Otherwise turn off SH1 38km south of Whangarei.

InterCity and Naked Bus both operate bus services.

Whangarei

Pop 52,900

Northland’s only city is surrounded by natural beauty, and its compact town centre offers plenty of rainy-day diversions. There’s a thriving artistic community, some good walks, and interesting cafes and bars.

Sights

Town Basin

This attractive riverside marina is home to vintage car and clock museums, cafes, shops, public art and an information centre. It’s a great place for a stroll, with a marked Art Walk and Heritage Trail. An artisans market is held on Saturdays from October to April under the shade of the pedestrian bridge.

Whangarei Art Museum GALLERY

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(www.whangareiartmuseum.co.nz; The Hub, Town Basin; admission by donation; 10am-4pm) Accessed through the Hub information centre (Click here), Whangarei’s public gallery has an interesting permanent collection, the star of which is a 1904 Maori portrait by Goldie. Also planned is a new Hundertwasser Art Centre, based on architectural plans by the late Austrian artist, Friedensreich Hundertwasser. See www.hundertwasser.co.nz for details of the campaign to raise support and funding of the project. A model of the proposed building is in the information centre.

Clapham’s Clocks MUSEUM

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(www.claphamsclocks.com; Town Basin; adult/child $8/4; 9am-5pm) This very interesting collection of 1400 ticking, gonging and cuckooing timepieces constitutes the National Clock Museum.

City Centre

Old Library Arts Centre GALLERY

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(www.oldlibrary.org.nz; 7 Rust Ave; 10am-4pm Tue-Thu) The work of local artists is exhibited in this wonderful art-deco building. Check the website for occasional concerts. Set between the old and new libraries is Pou OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP , an intriguing sculpture consisting of 10 large poles carved with Maori, Polynesian, Celtic, Croatian and Korean motifs. Grab an interpretive pamphlet from the library.

Botanica & Cafler Park GARDENS

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(First Ave & Water St; 10am-4pm) Native ferns, tropical plants and cacti are displayed in this little council-run fernery, set on the edge of cute Cafler Park. The park encloses the Waiarohia Stream and includes a rose garden and a scented garden.

Surrounds

Abbey Caves CAVE

(Abbey Caves Rd) Abbey Caves is an undeveloped network of three caverns full of glowworms and limestone formations, 6km east of town. Grab a torch, strong shoes, a mate for safety, and prepare to get wet. The surrounding reserve is a forest of crazily shaped rock extrusions. If you’re staying at neighbouring Little Earth Lodge, you can borrow helmets and hire head torches.

Kiwi North MUSEUM, WILDLIFE

(www.kiwinorth.co.nz; 500 SH14, Maunu; adult/child $15/5; 10am-4pm) Five kilometres west of Whangarei, this complex includes 19th-century buildings and a museum displaying Maori and colonial artefacts. A gecko and kiwi house offers a rare chance to see the country’s feathery fave in a darkened nocturnal house.

Native Bird Recovery Centre WILDLIFE CENTRE

(www.nbr.org.nz; 500 SH14, Maunu; 10am-4.30pm Tue-Thu, 1-4.30pm Mon & Fri) This avian hospital nurses sick and injured birds back to health. Say hi to the talking tuis.

Whangarei Falls WATERFALL

(Otuihau; Ngunguru Rd) Short walks around these 26m-high falls provide views of the water cascading over the edge of an old basalt lava flow. The falls can be reached on the Tikipunga bus ($3, no service on Sundays), leaving from Rose St in the city.

AH Reed Memorial Kauri Park FOREST

(Whareora Rd) A grove of immense 500-year-old kauri trees has been preserved in this lush tract of native bush, where a cleverly designed boardwalk leads you effortlessly up into the canopy. To get here, head north on Bank St and turn right into Whareora Rd.

Quarry Gardens GARDENS

(www.whangareiquarrygardens.org.nz; Russell Rd; admission by donation; 8am-5pm) Green-fingered volunteers have transformed this old quarry into a blissful park with a lake, waterfalls, pungent floral aromas, wild bits, orderly bits and lots of positive energy. To get here, take Rust Ave, turn right into Western Hills Dr and then left into Russell Rd.

Quarry Arts Centre ARTS CENTRE

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(www.quarryarts.org; 21 Selwyn Ave; 9.30am-4.30pm) An eccentric village of artists’ studios and co-operative galleries where you can often pick up well-priced art and craft.

Kingdom of Zion ZOO

( 09-435 0110; www.kingdomofzion.co.nz; Gray Rd, Kamo; adult/child/family from $60/25/150; 9am-5pm) An essential destination if you’re a fan of big cats, with more than 30 lions, tigers, cheetahs and leopards. A variety of tours is available – most popular is the Feed Tour (adult/child $80/30) – and there are also behind-the-scenes opportunities to meet the cats. Kingdom of Zion is around 9km northwest of Whangarei. A return shuttle bus ($25) leaves from the Town Basin daily at 1.15pm.

Activities

The free Whangarei Walks brochure, available from the i-SITE (Click here), has maps and detailed descriptions of some excellent local tracks. The Hatea River Walk follows the river from the Town Basin to the falls (three hours return). Longer tracks head through Parihaka Reserve, which is just east of the Hatea River and encompasses the remnants of a volcanic cone (241m) and a major pa (fortified village) site. The city is spread out for inspection from the lookout at the top, which is accessible by car. Other tracks head through Coronation Scenic Reserve, an expanse of bush immediately west of the centre that includes two pa sites and abandoned quarries.

Skydive Ballistic Blondes SKYDIVING

( 0800 695 867; www.skydiveballisticblondes.co.nz; 12,000ft tandem $320) Not only is this the oddest-named skydiving outfit in the country, it’s also the only one licensed to land on the beach (Ocean Beach or Paihia).

Pacific Coast Kayaks KAYAKING

( 09-436 1947; www.nzseakayaking.co.nz; hire 4/8hr $60/80, tours $40-130) Hires kayaks and offers guided paddles to various Whangarei region locations.

Tours

Pupurangi Hire & Tour CULTURAL TOUR

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( 09-438 8117; www.hirentour.co.nz; Jetty 1, Riverside Dr; 9.30am-5.30pm Oct-Apr, weekends only May-Sep) Various hour-long tours of Whangarei, all with a Maori flavour, including waka (canoe) trips on the river ($35). Also hires kayaks (per hour $17), waka ($25), aquacycles ($17) and bikes ($15).

Terenga Paraoa CULTURAL TOUR

( 09-430 3083; departs Town Basin; adult/child morning $55/30, afternoon $32/20; 9.30am & 1pm) Guided Maori cultural tours taking in Whangarei Harbour, Mt Manaia (Click here), the Kauri Park and, in the mornings, Pari­haka pa .

Sleeping

Little Earth Lodge HOSTEL $

( 09-430 6562; www.littleearthlodge.co.nz; 85 Abbey Caves Rd; dm/s/d/tr $31/68/72/93; ) Set on a farm 6km from town and right next to Abbey Caves, Little Earth makes most other hostels look downright shabby. Forget dorm rooms crammed with nasty, spongy bunks: settle down in a proper cosy bed with nice linen and a maximum of two room-mates. Resident critters include miniature horses Tom and Jerry, and the lovable pooch ­Muttley.

Whangarei Falls
Holiday Park & Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 09-437 0609; www.whangareifalls.co.nz; 12 Ngunguru Rd, Glenbervie; dm $26-28, s $42-52, d & tw $56-66; ) Located 5km from Whangarei CBD but a short walk from Whangarei Falls, with good-value cabins and dorms, some with small kitchenettes. There’s also room for tents and campervans.

Whangarei Top 10 HOLIDAY PARK $

( 09-437 6856; www.whangareitop10.co.nz; 24 Mair St; sites from $21, units $75-130; ) This centrally located riverside holiday park has friendly owners, a better-than-average set of units, and supershiny stainless-steel surfaces. Mair St is off Hatea Dr, north of the city centre.

Whangarei Views B&B $$

( 09-437 6238; www.whangareiviews.co.nz; 5 Kensington Heights Rise; s/d/apt $109/139/149; ) Modern and peaceful, with a self-contained two-bedroom flat downstairs and a B&B room in the main part of the house. To get here, follow the directions to Quarry Gardens (Click here). Kensington Heights Rise is off Russell Rd, and yes, the views are excellent.

BK’s Pohutukawa Lodge MOTEL $$

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( 09-430 8634; www.pohutukawalodge.co.nz; 362 Western Hills Dr; units $125-150; ) Just west of town, this nicely furnished motel has 14 units with well-kept facilities and ample parking.

Lodge Bordeaux MOTEL $$$

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( 09-438 0404; www.lodgebordeaux.co.nz; 361 Western Hills Dr; apt $195-230; ) Lodge Bordeaux has tasteful units with stellar kitchens and bathrooms (most with spa baths), private balconies and access to excellent wine. To get here, take Rust Ave and turn left into Western Hills Dr.

Eating

Nectar CAFE $

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(www.nectarcafe.co.nz; 88 Bank St; mains $12-20; 7am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) Nectar offers the winning combination of friendly staff, fairtrade coffee, and generous ser­vings from a menu full of Northland produce. Check out the urban views from the back windows, and settle in for a lazy brunch of Israeli baked eggs with organic quinoa.

Fresh CAFE $

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(12 James St; mains $10-22; 7.30am-4pm Sat-Wed, 7.30am-7pm Thu & Fri) Fresh as a daisy, and with supersized-flower photography on the walls, this chic cafe serves up great coffee and interesting breakfasts. It’s open later for after-work drinks on Thursday and Friday.

La Familia CAFE $

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(www.lafamila.co.nz; 84 Cameron St; mains $10-15, pizzas $12-19; 7am-4pm Tue-Sat, 9am-2.30pm Sun) Versatility rules at this cosy corner location. Good pastries, counter food and coffee segue to robust Italian-themed mains and pizzas for lunch. At the time of writing, the owners were also planning on opening for dinner on Friday and Saturday nights.

Whangarei Growers’ Market MARKET

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(Water St; 6.30-11am Sat) Stock up on local produce at this farmers market.

Mokaba CAFE $$

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(www.mokabacafe.co.nz; Town Basin; mains $9-21; 8am-5pm) The best of the Town Basin’s cafes has outdoor tables overlooking the forest of yacht masts, and indoor seating that segues into a gallery.

Nomad MOROCCAN $$

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(www.nomadcafe.co.nz; Quality St Mall, 71 Cameron St; mains $24-28; 5pm-late Tue-Sat) ‘Dining & Vibe’ is the claim on the window, and it’s a good description of this chic Moroccan-themed bar and eatery. Menu standouts include spicy prawns, kofta and tagines. There are other dining options in the same pedestrian mall including Israeli, Japanese and Italian cuisine.

Pimarn Thai THAI $$

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(www.pimarnthai.co.nz; 12 Rathbone St; mains $16-23; 11am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, from 5pm daily; ) As gaudy as every good Thai restaurant should be, Pimarn features all of Thailand’s blockbuster dishes, including an excellent yum talay (spicy seafood salad).

à Deco MODERN NZ $$$

( 09-459 4957; 70 Kamo Rd; mains $37-42; noon-3pm Fri, 6pm-late Tue-Sat) Northland’s best restaurant offers an inventive menu that prominently features local produce, including plenty of seafood. Art-deco fans will adore the setting – a wonderfully curvaceous marine-style villa with original fixtures. To get here, head north on Bank St and veer left into Kamo Rd.

Drinking & Entertainment

The Old Stone Butter Factory CAFE, BAR

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(www.facebook.com/OldStoneButterFactory; 84 Bank St; 10am-late Mon-Sun) Occupying a converted bank building, this tapas and cocktail bar hosts live musicians on Fridays. As the hours dissolve, DJs kick in. It’s also a popular spot for touring Kiwi bands and musos, and has interesting beers and wine. The sunny courtyard is also a good spot for a coffee.

Brauhaus Frings BREWERY

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(www.frings.co.nz; 104 Dent St; 10am-10pm) This popular microbrewery has good beers, a terrace, wood-fired pizzas, and live music on Wednesday (jam night) and every second Sunday from 4pm. It’s usually closed by 10pm on weekdays, but can push on to 3am on weekends.

Shopping

See also Quarry Arts Centre (Click here).

Tuatara ART & CRAFTS

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(www.tuataradesignstore.co.nz; 29 Bank St; 9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) Maori and Pasifika design, art and craft.

Bach ART & CRAFTS

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(www.thebach.org.nz; Town Basin; 9.30am-4.30pm) Co-op store representing over 100 Northland artisans.

Burning Issues ART & CRAFTS

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(www.burningissuesgallery.co.nz; Town Basin; 10am-5pm) Glassware, ceramics and ­jewellery.

Kathmandu OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

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(www.kathmandu.co.nz; 22 James St; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat, 10am-3pm Sun) Outdoor gear and travel clothing.

Information

DOC Office ( 09-470 3300; www.doc.govt.nz; 2 South End Ave, Raumanga; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) Located on South End Ave; turn right off SH1 around 2km south of central Whangarei.

Hub Information Centre ( 09-430 1188; Town Basin; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) More central branch of the i-SITE, in the foyer of the Art Museum.

Whangarei i-SITE ( 09-438 1079; www.whangareinz.com; 92 Otaika Rd/SH1; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) Information, cafe, toilets and internet access.

Getting There & Around

Air

Whangarei Airport (WRE; 09-436 0047; www.whangareiairport.co.nz; Handforth St) Whangarei Airport is at Onerahi, 6km southeast of the centre. Air New Zealand and Great Barrier Airlines flights both service Whangarei. Taxis into town cost around $30. A city bus stops 400m away on Church St ($3, 18 buses on weekdays, seven on Saturdays).

Bus

Bus services to Whangarei are run by InterCity, whose buses stop outside the Northland Coach & Travel Centre ( 09-438 3206; 3 Bank St; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2.30pm Sat & Sun) , and Naked Buses, whose buses stop at the Hub (Click here), in the Town Basin. West Coaster shuttles also service Whangarei.

Taxi

A1 Cabs ( 0800 438 3377)

Whangarei Heads

Whangarei Heads Rd winds 35km along the northern reaches of the harbour to the Heads’ entrance, passing mangroves and picturesque pohutukawa-lined bays. Holiday homes, B&Bs and galleries are dotted around the water-hugging small settlements. There are great views from the top of Mt Manaia (419m), a sheer rock outcrop above McLeod Bay, but prepare for a lung- and leg-busting 1½-hour climb.

Bream Head caps off the craggy finger of land. A five-hour one-way walking track from Urquharts Bay to Ocean Beach passes through the Bream Head Scenic Reserve and lovely Smugglers Bay and Peach Cove.

Magnificent Ocean Beach stretches for miles on the other side of the headland. There’s decent surfing to be had and lifeguards patrol the beach in summer. A detour from Parua Bay takes you to glorious Pataua, a small settlement that lies on a shallow inlet linked to a surf beach by a footbridge.

Sleeping & Eating

Kauri Villas B&B $$

( 09-436 1797; www.kaurivillas.com; 73 Owhiwa Rd, Parua Bay; d $130-175; ) Perched on a hill with views back over the harbour to Whangarei, this pretty blue-trimmed villa has an old-world feel, due in part to some very chintzy wallpaper. The decor’s more restrained in the self-contained lodge and annex rooms.

Parua Bay Tavern PUB $$

(www.paruabaytavern.co.nz; 1034 Whangarei Heads Rd; meals $15-31; 11.30am-late) A magical spot on a summer’s day, this friendly pub is set on a thumb-shaped peninsula, with a sole pohutukawa blazing red against the green water. Grab a seat on the deck, a cold beverage and a decent pub meal.

Tutukaka Coast & the Poor Knights Islands

If Goat Island Marine Reserve whetted your appetite, diving at the Poor Knights is the feast followed by a wafer-thin mint that might cause your stomach to explode. Apart from the natural underwater scenery, two decommissioned navy ships have been sunk nearby for divers to explore.

Following the road northeast of Whangarei for 26km, you’ll first come to the sweet village of Ngunguru near the mouth of a broad river. Tutukaka is 1km further on, its marina bustling with yachts, dive crews and game-fishing boats.

From Tutukaka the road heads slightly inland, popping out 10km later at the golden sands of Matapouri. A blissful 20-minute coastal walk leads from here to Whale Bay, fringed with giant pohutukawa trees.

Continuing north from Matapouri, the wide expanse of Sandy Bay, one of Northland’s premier surf beaches, comes into view. Long-boarding competitions are held here in summer. The road then loops back to join SH1 at Hikurangi. A branch leading off from this road doubles back north to the coast at Whananaki, where there are more glorious beaches and the Otamure Bay DOC campsite ( 09-433 8402; www.doc.govt.nz; sites per adult/child $10/5) .

Activities

Dive trips leave from Tutukaka and cater for both first-timers and experts. There are some excellent walks along the coast. Pick up a copy of the Tutukaka Coast Tracks & Walks brochure from the Whangarei i-SITE (Click here).

Dive! Tutukaka DIVING

( 0800 288 882; www.diving.co.nz; Marina Rd; 2 dives incl gear $249) Dive courses and excursions, including a five-day PADI open-water course ($799). For nondivers, the Perfect Day Ocean Cruise ($149) includes lunch and snacks, snorkelling in the marine reserve, kayaking through caves and arches, ­paddle boarding, and sightings of dolphins (usually) and whales (occasionally). Cruises run from November to April, departing at 11am and returning at 4.15pm. In off months, snorkellers can tag along on the dive boats. Dive! Tutukaka has twice-daily shuttles from Whangarei for its customers ($20).

Yukon Dive DIVING

( 09-434 4506; www.yukon.co.nz; 2 dives incl full gear $245) An owner-operator offering dive trips for a maximum of 12 people at a time.

Tutukaka Surf Experience SURFING

( 09-434 4135; www.tutukakasurf.co.nz; Marina Rd; 2hr lesson $75) Runs surf lessons at 9.30am most days in summer and on the weekends otherwise, operating from whichever beach has the best beginner breaks that day. Also hires surfboards (per day $45) and stand-up paddle boards (per day $20).

Sleeping

Lupton Lodge B&B $$

( 09-437 2989; www.luptonlodge.co.nz; 555 Ngunguru Rd; s $125-155, d $170-245; ) The rooms are spacious, luxurious and full of character in this historic homestead (1896), peacefully positioned in farmland halfway between Whangarei and Ngunguru. Wander the orchard, splash around the pool or shoot some snooker in the guest lounge.

Pacific Rendezvous MOTEL $$

( 09-434 3847; www.pacificrendezvous.co.nz; Motel Rd; apt $199-250) Perfectly situated for spectacular views on the south head of Tutukaka harbour, this is a great choice for families and small groups. Most of the units are 1960s duplexes with multiple bedrooms, but they’re all individually owned and ­decorated.

Eating & Drinking

Havana Cabana SOUTH AMERICAN $

(www.havanacabana.co.nz; 23 McAuslin Rd, Sandy Bay; snacks & meals $5-16; 11am-8pm daily Boxing Day to early Feb, Sat & Sun only early Feb-Easter) Nestled away near the beach at Sandy Bay, around 20 minutes’ drive north of Tutukaka, this colourful caravan turns out excellent Cuban and South American food. Tuck into empanadas, tacos, great roast pork Cuban sandwiches, or Caribbean jerk pulled pork, all washed down with Cuban coffee or frozen pina coladas.

Schnappa Rock CAFE, BAR $$

(www.schnapparock.co.nz; cnr Marina Rd & Marlin Pl; breakfast/lunch $10-27, dinner $26-35, bar snacks $8-19; 8am-late, closed Sun night Jun-Oct) Filled with expectant divers in the morning and those capping off their Perfect Days in the evening, this cafe-restaurant-bar is often buzzing. Top NZ bands sometimes play on summer weekends.

Marina Pizzeria PIZZERIA $$

(www.marinapizzeria.co.nz; Tutukaka Marina; pizzas $15-30; 4pm-late Fri, 10am-late Sat & Sun) Everything is homemade at this excellent takeaway and restaurant – the bread, the pasta, the pizza and the ice cream. Hearty breakfasts are served from 10am on ­weekends.

Russell Road

The quickest route to Russell takes SH1 to Opua and then crosses by ferry. The old Russell Rd is a snaking scenic route that adds about half an hour to the trip.

The turn-off is easy to miss, located 6km north of Hikurangi at Whakapara (look for the sign to Oakura). Stop after 13km at the Gallery & Cafe (www.galleryhelenabay.co.nz; 1392 Old Russell Rd, Helena Bay; mains $14-18; 10am-5pm ) high above Helena Bay for fairtrade coffee, scrummy cake, amazing views and interesting Kiwiana art and craft.

At Helena Bay an unsealed detour leads 8km to Mimiwhangata Coastal Park, which features sand dunes, pohutukawa trees, jutting headlands and picturesque beaches. DOC-managed accommodation includes a simple but comfortable cottage, and a beach house ($613 per week), both of which sleep seven to eight people. Basic camping (per adult/child $10/5) is available at secluded Waikahoa Bay.

Back on Russell Rd, you’ll find the Farm ( 09-433 6894; www.thefarm.co.nz; 3632 Russell Rd; sites from $13, dm/s/d $20/30/80) , a rough-and-ready backpackers that rambles through various buildings, including an old woolshed fitted out with a mirror ball. The rooms are basic, and the Farm is popular with trail bikers during the summer holidays; off season it’s a chilled-out rustic escape. On offer are horse treks (1½ hours, $50) or motorbike rides (one hour $60) through the 1000-acre working farm.

At an intersection shortly after the Farm, Russell Rd branches off to the left for an unsealed, winding section traversing the Ngaiotonga Scenic Reserve. Unless you’re planning to explore the forest (there are two short walks: the 20-minute Kauri Grove Nature Walk and the 10-minute Twin Bole Kauri Walk ), you’re better off veering right onto the sealed Rawhiti Rd.

After 2.6km, a side road leads to the Whangaruru North Head Scenic Reserve, which has beaches, walking tracks and fine scenery. A loop route from DOC’s Puriri Bay Campsite ( 09-433 6160; www.doc.govt.nz; sites per adult/child $10/5) leads up to a ridge, offering a remarkable coastal panorama.

If you want to head directly to Russell, continue along Rawhiti Rd for another 7km before veering left onto Manawaora Rd, which skirts a succession of tiny idyllic bays before reconnecting with Russell Rd.

Otherwise take a detour to isolated Rawhiti, a small Ngapuhi settlement where life still revolves around the marae (meeting house). Rawhiti is the starting point for the tramp to Cape Brett, a tiring eight-hour, 16.3km walk to the top of the peninsula, where overnight stays are possible in DOC’s Cape Brett Hut (dm $15) . The hut must be booked in advance. An access fee is charged for crossing private land (adult/child $30/15), which you can pay at the Paihia i-SITE (Click here). Another option is to take a water taxi to Cape Brett lighthouse from Russell or Paihia and walk back.

A shorter one-hour walk leads through Maori land and the Whangamumu Scenic Reserve to Whangamumu Harbour. There are more than 40 ancient Maori sites on the peninsula and the remains of an unusual whaling station.

Bay of Islands

The Bay of Islands ranks as one of NZ’s top tourist drawcards, and the turquoise waters of the bay are punctuated by around 150 undeveloped islands. In particular, Paihia has excellent budget accommodation, and boat trips and water sports are very popular.

The Bay of Islands is also a place of enormous historical significance. Maori knew it as Pewhairangi and settled here early in their migrations. As the site of NZ’s first permanent British settlement (at Russell), it is the birthplace of European colonisation in the country. It was in this region that the Treaty of Waitangi was drawn up and first signed in 1840; the treaty remains the linchpin of race relations in NZ today.

Activities

The Bay of Islands offers some fine subtropical diving, made even better by the sinking of the 113m navy frigate HMNZS Canterbury in Deep Water Cove near Cape Brett. Local operators also head to the wreck of the Rainbow Warrior off the Cavalli Islands, about an hour north of Paihia by boat. Both offer a colourful feast of pink anemones, yellow sponges and abundant fish life.

There are opportunities for kayaking or sailing around the bay, either on a guided tour or by renting and going it alone. Cruises and dolphin swimming are also available.

Dive North DIVING

( 09-402 5369; www.divenorth.co.nz; reef & wreck $225) Based in Kerikeri but offering free pick-ups from Paihia.

Paihia Dive DIVING

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( 09-402 7551; www.divenz.com; Williams Rd, Paihia; reef & wreck $229) Combined reef and wreck trips to either the Canterbury or the Rainbow Warrior .

Dive Ops DIVING

( 0800 387 892, 09-402 5454; www.diveops.co.nz; 2 dives incl equipment $230-280) Family-run diving operators, based out of Paihia.

Island Kayaks & Bay
Beach Hire KAYAKING, BOATING

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( 09-402 6078; www.baybeachhire.co.nz; Mars­den Rd, Paihia; half-day kayaking tour $69; 9am-5.30pm) Hires kayaks (from $15 per hour), sailing catamarans ($50 first hour, $40 per additional), motor boats ($85 first hour, $25 per additional), mountain bikes ($35 per day), boogie boards ($25 per day), fishing rods ($10 per day), wet suits and snorkelling gear (both $20 per day).

Coastal Kayakers KAYAKING

( 0800 334 661; www.coastalkayakers.co.nz; Te Karuwha Pde, Paihia) Runs guided tours (half-/full day $85/115, minimum two people) and multiday adventures. Kayaks (per hour/half-/full day $15/40/50) can also be rented for independent exploration.

Flying Kiwi Parasail PARASAILING

( 0800 359 691; www.parasail-nz.co.nz; solo $99, tandem each $89, child $69) Departs from both Paihia and Russell wharves for NZ’s highest parasail (1200ft).

Tango Jet Ski &
Island Boat Tours BOAT TOUR, JET-SKIING

( 0800 253 8752; www.tangojetskitours.co.nz; boat tours/jet-ski hire from $65/100) Zip around the bay in a speedy inflatable boat or skipper your own jet ski. Jet skis can take two people.

Great Escape Yacht Charters SAILING

( 09-402 7143; www.greatescape.co.nz) Offers introductory sailing lessons (two-day course $445) and longer options.

Northland Paddleboarding PADDLE BOARDING

( 027 777 1035; www.northlandpaddleboarding.co.nz; beginner lessons per hr $50) Lessons and guided cruises.

Horse Trek’n HORSE RIDING

( 027 233 3490; www.horsetrekn.co.nz; 2hr ride $120) Through the Waitangi Forest.

Tours

Where do you start? First by praying for good weather, as torrential rain or choppy seas could exclude some options. The Paihia i-SITE (Click here) and accommodation operators can book tours.

Boat

Options include sailing boats, jetboats and large launches. Boats leave from either Paihia or Russell, calling into the other town as their first stop.

One of the bay’s most striking islands is Piercy Island (Motukokako) off Cape Brett, at the bay’s eastern edge. This steep-walled rock fortress features a vast natural arch – the famous Hole in the Rock. Provided the conditions are right, most boat tours will pass right through the heart of the island. En route it’s likely you’ll encounter bottlenose and common dolphins, and you may see orcas, other whales and penguins.

The best way to explore the bay is under sail. Either help crew the boat (no experience required), or just spend the afternoon island-hopping, sunbathing, swimming, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing.

Explore NZ CRUISE, SAILING

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( 09-402 8234; www.explorenz.co.nz; cnr Marsden & Williams Rds, Paihia) The four-hour Swim with the Dolphins Cruise (adult/child $89/45, additional $15 to swim) departs at 8am and 12.30pm. The four-hour Discover the Bay Cruise (adult/child $99/49) departs at 9am and 1.30pm, heading to the Hole in the Rock and stopping at Urupukapuka Island. There are also combo options available including a bus trip along Ninety Mile Beach.

Another option (December to March only) is a day sail on Lion NZ (adult/child $110/70), the 80ft maxi yacht used by the late Sir Peter Blake in racing around the world and from Sydney to Hobart.

Fullers Great Sights CRUISES

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( 0800 653 339; www.dolphincruises.co.nz; Paihia Wharf) The four-hour Dolphin Cruise (adult/child $95/50) departs daily at 9am and 1.30pm, actively seeking out dolphins en route to the Hole in the Rock, and stopping at Urupukapuka Island on the way back. You won’t visit the Hole in the Rock on the four-hour Dolphin Eco Experience (adult/child $109/55, departs 8am and 12.30pm); the focus is finding dolphins to swim with.

The full-day Cream Trip (adult/child $119/60) follows the mail route around the bay and includes dolphin swimming. A glamorous option for an overnight cruise from September to April is on the launch Ipipiri , with accommodation in en-suite state rooms from $299 per person. Meals and kayaking, snorkelling and island walks are included.

R Tucker Thompson SAILING

( 09-402 8430; www.tucker.co.nz) Run by a charitable trust with an education focus, the Tucker is a majestic tall ship offering day sails (adult/child $145/73, including a barbecue lunch) and late-afternoon cruises (adult/child $59/30).

Rock CRUISE

( 0800 762 527; www.rocktheboat.co.nz; dm/s/d from $158/346/376) A former vehicle ferry that’s now a floating hostel, the Rock has dorms, private rooms and a bar. The cruise departs at 5pm and includes a barbecue and seafood dinner with live music, then time spent island-hopping, fishing, kayaking, snorkelling and swimming the following day. Day cruises only are $98 per person.

Carino SAILING, DOLPHIN SWIMMING

( 09-402 8040; www.sailingdolphins.co.nz; adult/child $114/69) This 50ft catamaran is the only yacht licensed for swimming with dolphins. A barbecue lunch is available for $6.

Ecocruz SAILING

( 0800 432 627; www.ecocruz.co.nz; dm/d $650/1500) Three-day/two-night sailing cruise aboard the 72ft ocean-going yacht Manawanui . Prices include accommodation, food, fishing, kayaking and snorkelling.

She’s a Lady SAILING

( 0800 724 584; www.bay-of-islands.com; day sail $97) On day sails go snorkelling or paddle a see-through-bottom kayak. Charter boats for longer trips and a sailing school.

Phantom SAILING

( 0800 224 421; www.yachtphantom.com; adult/child $110/60) A fast 50ft racing sloop, known for its wonderful food. BYO beer and wine allowed.

Gungha II SAILING

( 0800 478 900; www.bayofislandssailing.co.nz; day sail $95) A 65ft ocean yacht with a friendly crew; lunch included.

Mack Attack JETBOATING

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( 0800 622 528; www.mackattack.co.nz; 9 Williams Rd, Paihia; adult/child $95/40) An exhilarating, high-speed 1½-hour jetboat trip to the Hole in the Rock.

Bus

It’s cheaper and quicker to take trips to Cape Reinga from Ahipara, Kaitaia or Doubtless Bay, but if you’re short on time, several long day trips (10 to 12 hours) leave from the Bay of Islands. They all drive one way along Ninety Mile Beach, stopping for sandboarding on the dunes.

Fullers (Click here) runs regular bus tours and backpacker-oriented versions, both stopping at Puketi Forest. The standard, child-­friendly version (adult/child $135/68) includes an optional lunch at Pukenui. It also runs Awesome NZ ( 0800 653 339; www.awesomenz.com; tours $119) tours, with louder music, more time sandboarding, and stops to chuck a frisbee around at Tapotupotu Bay and devour fish and chips at Mangonui.

Dune Rider by Explore NZ (Click here ; adult/child $149/110) also samples Mangonui’s feted fish and chips and includes a stop at Gumdiggers Park.

Transport options to the Hokianga and Waipoua Forest are limited, so a day trip makes sense if you don’t have your own car or if you’re time starved. Discover Hokianga by Fullers (Click here ; adult/child $112/65) takes in Tane Mahuta and Wairere Boulders in an eight-hour tour with local Maori guides.

Cultural

Native Nature Tours CULTURAL TOUR, TRAMPING

( 0800 668 873; www.nativenaturetours.co.nz; 581 Tipene Rd, Motatau; day treks $145-235, overnight $375) A local Maori couple formally welcome you to their marae and lead treks on their ancestral lands, including visits to sacred sites and an introduction to Maori food and medicine. Other options include tree planting, and overnight stays include a traditional hangi (earth-cooked meal) and glowworm-spotting.

Taiamai Tours
Heritage Journeys CULTURAL TOURS, CANOEING

( 09-405 9990; www.taiamaitours.co.nz; 2½hr tour $135; 10am & 1pm Oct-Apr) Paddle a traditional 50ft carved waka (canoe) from the Waitangi bridge to the Haruru Falls. The Ngapuhi hosts wear traditional garb, and perform the proper karakia (incantations) and share stories.

Other Tours

Salt Air SCENIC FLIGHTS

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( 09-402 8338; www.saltair.co.nz; Marsden Rd, Paihia) Scenic flights include a five-hour light-aircraft and 4WD tour to Cape Reinga and Ninety Mile Beach ($425), and helicopter flights out to the Hole in the Rock ($230). A new tour even lands on the famed island (from $379).

Total Tours FOOD & WINE

( 0800 264 868; www.totaltours.co.nz) Explore around Kerikeri on a half-day Food, Wine and Craft tour ($65) or half-day wine tour ($75).

Festivals & Events

Tall Ship Race SPORTS

Held in Russell on the first Saturday after New Year’s Day.

Waitangi Day CULTURE

Various ceremonial events at Waitangi on 6 February.

Country Rock Festival MUSIC

(www.country-rock.co.nz; festival pass $50) Second weekend in May.

Russell Birdman LUNACY

(www.russellbirdman.co.nz) Lunatics with various flying contraptions jump off wharf into frigid (July) waters.

Jazz & Blues Festival MUSIC

(www.jazz-blues.co.nz; festival pass $50) Second weekend in August.

Weekend Coastal Classic SPORTS

(www.coastalclassic.co.nz) NZ’s largest yacht race, from Auckland to the Bay of Islands, held on Labour Weekend in October.

Bay of Islands Food
& Wine Festival FOOD, WINE

(www.paihianz.co.nz/it_festival; adult/child $45/15; 11am-6pm) Food, wine and local music in Paihia on the last Saturday of October.

Russell

Pop 720

Although it was once known as ‘the hellhole of the Pacific’, those coming to Russell for debauchery will be sadly disappointed: they’ve missed the orgies on the beach by 170 years. Instead they’ll find a historic town with gift shops and B&Bs, and, in summer, you can rent kayaks and dinghies along the Strand.

Before it was known as a hellhole, or even as Russell, it was Kororareka (Sweet Penguin), a fortified Ngapuhi village. In the early 19th century the tribe permitted it to become Aotearoa’s first European settlement. It quickly became a magnet for rough elements such as fleeing convicts, whalers and drunken sailors. By the 1830s dozens of whaling ships at a time were anchored in the harbour. Charles Darwin described it in 1835 as full of ‘the refuse of society’.

In 1830 the settlement was the scene of the so-called Girls’ War, when two pairs of Maori women were vying for the attention of a whaling captain called Brind. A chance meeting between the rivals on the beach led to verbal abuse and fighting. This minor conflict quickly escalated as family members rallied around to avenge the insult and harm done to their respective relatives. Hundreds were killed and injured over a two-week period before missionaries managed to broker a peace agreement.

After the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi in 1840, Okiato (where the car ferry now leaves from) was the residence of the governor and the temporary capital. The capital was officially moved to Auckland in 1841 and Okiato, which was by then known as Russell, was eventually abandoned. The name Russell ultimately replaced Kororareka.

Sights

Pompallier Mission HISTORIC BUILDING

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(www.pompallier.co.nz; The Strand; tours adult/child $10/free; 10am-4pm) Built in 1842 to house the Catholic mission’s printing press, this rammed-earth building is the mission’s last remaining building in the western Pacific. A staggering 40,000 books were printed here in Maori. In the 1870s it was converted into a private home, but it is now restored to its original state, complete with tannery and printing workshop.

Christ Church CHURCH

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(Church St) English naturalist Charles Darwin made a donation towards the cost of building the country’s oldest church (1836). The graveyard’s biggest memorial commemorates Tamati Waka Nene, a powerful Ngapuhi chief from the Hokianga who sided against Hone Heke in the Northland War. The church’s exterior has musket and cannonball holes dating from the 1845 battle.

Maiki HILL

(Flagstaff Rd) Overlooking Russell, this is the hill where Hone Heke chopped down the flagpole four times. You can drive up but the view justifies a climb. Take the track west from the boat ramp along the beach at low tide, or head up Wellington St.

Tapeka Point LOOKOUT, BEACH

North of Russell, on the other side of Maiki hill, Tapeka Rd heads down to a sandy beach in the shadow of a craggy headland. A pa once stood at the top of the hill. Follow the pathway for views stretching to the far northern reaches of the Bay of Islands.

Long Beach BEACH

(Long Beach Rd) About 1.5km behind Russell (an easy walk or cycle) is this placid, child-friendly beach. Turn left (facing the sea) to visit Donkey Bay, a small cove that is an unofficial nudist beach.

Russell Museum MUSEUM

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(www.russellmuseum.org.nz; 2 York St; adult/child $7.50/2; 10am-4pm) This small, modern museum has a well-presented Maori section, a large 1:5-scale model of Captain Cook’s Endeavour , and a 10-minute video on the town’s history.

Haratu CULTURAL BUILDING

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(www.kororarekanz.com; cnr The Strand & Pitt St; walking tours adult/child $20/10; gallery 11am-3pm, walking tours 11am & 2pm) Run by the local marae society, Haratu has Maori art and craft, mostly available for purchase. There are also audiovisual displays and information boards. One-hour guided walks featuring Maori stories are available in summer and by arrangement other times. It’s ­volunteer-run, so opening times can vary.

Tours

Russell Mini Tours MINIBUS

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( 0800 646 486; www.russellminitours.com; cnr The Strand & Cass St; adult/child $29/15; tours 10am, 11am, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm) Minibus tour around historic Russell with commentary. Tours departing Paihia (adult/child $40/20) visiting Kawakawa and the Kawiti Glowworm Caves are also available.

Sleeping

Russell has a few decent midrange options. There are several small budget lodges, but you’ll need to book ahead at busy times. If budget is not a consideration, Russell does luxury B&Bs very well.

Wainui HOSTEL $

( 09-403 8278; www.pelnet.org/wainui; 92d Te Wahapu Rd; dm/r $28/66; ) Hard to find but worth the effort, this modern bush retreat with direct beach access has only two rooms that share a pleasant communal space. It’s 5km from Russell on the way to the car ferry. Take Te Wahapu Rd and then turn right into Waiaruhe Way.

Ferry Landing Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 09-403 7985; www.ferrylandingrussell.co.nz; 395 Aucks Rd, Okiato Pt; dm/s/d $30/50/60; ) More like a homestay than a hostel, with only two rooms on offer within the owners’ house. It sits on the hill directly above the ferry landing in Okiato – you’ll need a car to get here.

Russell-Orongo Bay
Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 09-403 7704; www.russellaccommodation.co.nz; 5960 Russell Rd; unpowered/powered site $40/44, teepee $80-90, cabins & units $80-165; ) Surrounded by 14 acres studded with native forest and birdlife, this relaxed holiday park is around 3km from Russell after departing the ferry from Opua to Okiato. The wide range of accommodation includes a quirky teepee and comfortable self-contained units.

Russell Top 10 HOLIDAY PARK $

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( 09-403 7826; www.russelltop10.co.nz; 1 James St; sites/cabins/units from $41/80/140; ) This leafy park has a small store, good facilities, wonderful hydrangeas, tidy cabins and nice units. Showers are clean, but metered.

Pukeko Cottage HOSTEL $

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( 09-403 8498; www.pukekocottagebackpackers.co.nz; 14 Brind Rd; per person $30; ) More like staying at a mate’s place than a hostel, this homely house has just two bedrooms for rent and a caravan in the back garden. It’s certainly not dirty, but the cleanliness is bloke-standard. Barry, the artist owner, is always up for a chat.

Lesley’s B&B Homestay B&B $$

( 09-403 7099; www.lesleys.co.nz; 1 Pomare Rd; s $110-150, d $140-180; ) Rooms are bright and colourful at this welcoming B&B owned by a well-travelled local artist. Breakfasts are legendary – the owner Lesley is also a trained chef – and the guests can fire up the barbecue. Gardens and palms surround the property, and the attractions and cafes of Russell are a 10-minute walk away.

Russell Motel MOTEL $$

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( 09-403 7854; www.motelrussell.co.nz; 16 Matauwhi Rd; units $130-165; ) Sitting amid well-tended gardens, this old-fashioned motel offers a good range of units and a kidney-shaped pool that the kids will love. The studios are a little dark but you really can’t quibble for this price in central Russell.

Duke of Marlborough HISTORIC HOTEL $$

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( 09-403 7829; www.theduke.co.nz; 35 The Strand; r $165-360; ) Holding NZ’s oldest pub licence, the Duke boasts about ‘serving rascals and reprobates since 1827’, although the building has burnt down twice since then. The upstairs accommodation ranges from small, bright rooms in a 1930s extension to snazzy, spacious doubles facing the water.

Arcadia Lodge B&B $$$

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( 09-403 7756; www.arcadialodge.co.nz; 10 Florance Ave; d $200-270; ) The characterful rooms of this 1890 hillside house are decked out with interesting antiques and fine linen, while the breakfast is probably the best you’ll eat in town – organic, delicious and complemented with spectacular views from the deck.

Commodore’s Lodge MOTEL $$$

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( 09-403 7899; www.commodoreslodgemotel.co.nz; 28 The Strand; units $200-310; ) Being the envy of every passer-by makes up for the lack of privacy in the front apartments that face the waterfront promenade. Spacious, nicely presented units are the order of the day here, along with a small pool and free kayaks, dinghies and bikes.

Orongo Bay Homestead LODGE $$$

( 09-403 7527; www.thehomestead.co.nz; Aucks Rd; r $585; ) This wooden homestead (c 1860) was NZ’s first American consulate, located a discreet 4km from Russell’s rabble. Accommodation is by way of three stylishly plush rooms in the converted barn facing a chocolate-box lake. Breakfast is memorable and dinners are by arrangement.

Hananui Lodge & Apartments MOTEL $$$

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( 09-403 7875; www.hananui.co.nz; 4 York St; units $185-320; ) Choose between sparkling motel-style units in the trim waterside lodge or apartments in the newer block across the road. Pick of the bunch are the upstairs water­front units with views straight over the beach.

Eating & Drinking

For a country so hooked on cafe culture and a town so touristy, it’s disappointing that Russell doesn’t have more on offer.

Newport Chocolates CAFE, SWEETS $

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(www.newportchocolates.co.nz; 3 Cass St; chocolates around $3; 10am-5pm) Delicious artisan chocolates – handmade on site – with ­flavours including raspberry, lime and chilli, and, our favourite, caramel and sea salt. Also a top spot for rich hot chocolate and refreshing frappes.

Gables MODERN NZ $$

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( 09-403 7670; www.thegablesrestaurant.co.nz; 19 The Strand; lunch $19-25, dinner $25-32; noon-3pm Fri-Mon, from 6pm Thu-Mon) Ser­ving an imaginative take on Kiwi classics (lamb, beef and lots of seafood), the Gables occupies an 1847 building on the waterfront, built using whale vertebrae for foundations. Ask for a table by the windows for watery views and look forward to local produce including oysters, cheese and Kerikeri citrus fruits.

Duke of Marlborough PUB $$

(www.theduke.co.nz; 35 The Strand; lunch $12-32, dinner $24-37; 11am-late) There’s no better spot in Russell to while away a few hours, glass in hand, than the Duke’s sunny deck. Thankfully the upmarket pub grub matches the views, plus there’s an excellent wine list and a great selection of NZ craft beers.

Tuk Tuk THAI $$

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(www.tuktukrestaurant.co.nz; 19 York St; mains $18-24; 10.30am-11pm; ) Thai fabrics adorn the tables and Thai favourites fill the menu. In clement weather grab a table out front and watch Russell’s little world go by.

The Wharf CAFE $$

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(www.thewharfrussell.co.nz; 29 The Strand; breakfast $12-18, dinner $25-35; 11am-3pm & 5pm-late Wed-Sun) Cosy, nautical-themed nook with a focus on well-prepared seafood, meaty stone­grill dishes and lighter tapas-style plates. Good-value breakfasts will set you up for the day’s exploring.

Hone’s PIZZERIA, BAR $$

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(York St; pizza $19-27; noon-late summer only) Head out to the pebbled courtyard behind the Gables restaurant for wood-fired pizza, cold beer and a good vibe.

Pub ’round the Corner PUB

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(19 York St; noon-late) A cool, cosy tavern with pool tables and a local’s vibe.

Shopping

Just Imagine… ARTS & CRAFTS

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(www.justimagine.co.nz; 25 York St; 10am-5pm) Glassware, paintings and gifts.

Information

Russell Booking & Information Centre ( 09-403 8020; www.russellinfo.co.nz; Russell Pier; 8am-5pm, later in summer)

Getting There & Away

The quickest way to reach Russell by car is via the car ferry (car/motorcycle/passenger $11/5.50/1), which runs every 10 minutes from Opua (5km from Paihia) to Okiato (8km from Russell), between 6.40am and 10pm. Buy your tickets on board. If you’re travelling from the south, a scenic alternative is Russell Rd.

On foot, the easiest way to reach Russell is on a passenger ferry from Paihia (adult/child one way $7/3, return $12/6). They run from 7am to 7pm (until 10pm October to May), generally every 20 minutes but hourly in the evenings. Buy your tickets on board or at the i-SITE (Click here) in Paihia.

Paihia & Waitangi

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The birthplace of NZ (as opposed to Aotearoa), Waitangi inhabits a special, somewhat complex place in the national psyche – aptly demonstrated by the mixture of celebration, commemoration, protest and apathy that accompanies the nation’s birthday (Waitangi Day, 6 February).

It was here that the long-neglected and much-contested Treaty of Waitangi was first signed between Maori chiefs and the British Crown, establishing British sovereignty or something a bit like it, depending on whether you’re reading the English or Maori version of the document. If you’re interested in coming to grips with NZ’s history and race relations, this is the place to start.

Joined to Waitangi by a bridge, Paihia would be a fairly nondescript coastal town if it wasn’t the main entry point to the Bay of Islands. If you’re not on a tight budget, catch a ferry to Russell, which is far nicer.

There are some good walks in the area, including an easy 5km track that follows the coast from Opua to Paihia.

Sights & Activities

Waitangi Treaty Grounds HISTORIC SITE

( 09-402 7437; www.waitangi.net.nz; 1 Tau Henare Dr; adult/child $25/free; 9am-5pm Mar-Dec, to 7pm Jan-Feb) Occupying a headland draped in lawns and bush, this is NZ’s most significant historic site. Here, on 6 February 1840, the first 43 Maori chiefs, after much discussion, signed the Treaty of Waitangi with the British Crown; eventually, over 500 chiefs would sign it.

The Treaty House was built in 1832 as the four-room home of British resident James Busby. It’s now preserved as a memorial and museum containing displays, including a copy of the treaty. Just across the lawn, the magnificently detailed whare runanga (meeting house) was completed in 1940 to mark the centenary of the treaty. The fine carvings represent the major Maori tribes. Near the cove is the 35m waka taua (war canoe), also built for the centenary. A photographic exhibit details how it was fashioned from gigantic kauri logs.

The importance of the treaty is well understood by a NZ audience, but visitors might find it surprising that there’s not more information displayed here about the role it has played in the nation’s history: the long litany of breaches by the Crown, the wars and land confiscations that followed, and the protest movement that led to the current process of redress for historic injustices.

International visitors will get more out of what is already quite a pricey admission fee if they pay extra for a guided tour ($10) or cultural performance ($15). The 30-minute performance (11am and 1pm) demonstrates traditional Maori song and dance, including the haka (war dance). The Ultimate Combo (adult/child $40/free) is a combined ticket including tour and performance. Other options include a Maori Cultural Workshop (adult/child $60/35), and a hangi and concert (adult/child $105/50, Wednesday and Saturday December to March) at the Treaty Ground’s Whare Waka (Click here) cafe.

Entry is free to NZ citizens upon presentation of a passport or drivers licence.

Haruru Falls WATERFALL

(Haruru Falls Rd) A walking track (1½ hours one way, 5km) leads from the Treaty Grounds along the Waitangi River to these attractive horseshoe falls. Part of the path follows a boardwalk through the mangroves. Otherwise you can drive here, turning right off Puketona Rd onto Haruru Falls Rd.

St Paul’s Church CHURCH

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(Marsden Rd) The characterful St Paul’s was constructed of Kawakawa stone in 1925, and stands on the site of NZ’s first church, a simple raupo (bulrush) hut erected in 1823. Look for the native birds in the stained glass above the altar – the kotare (kingfisher) represents Jesus (the king plus ‘fisher of men’), while the tui (parson bird) and kereru (wood pigeon) portray the personalities of the Williams brothers (one scholarly, one forceful), who set up the mission station here.

Opua Forest FOREST

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Just behind Paihia, this regenerating forest has walking trails ranging from 10 minutes to five hours. A few large trees have escaped axe and fire, including some big kauri. Walk up from School Rd for about 30 minutes to good lookouts. Information on Opua Forest walks is available from the i-SITE. Drive into the forest by taking Oromahoe Rd west from Opua.

Sleeping

If your budget is more flexible, Russell has more atmosphere, but Paihia is more convenient and has motels, apartments and B&Bs on the waterfront and around the surrounding hills. Paihia has an excellent range of hostels, and Kings Rd is the main ‘backpackers’ row’.

Seabeds HOSTEL $

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( 09-402 5567; www.seabeds.co.nz; 46 Davis Cres; dm/s/d/apt $28/68/85/95; ) Offering comfortable, friendly, stylish budget digs in a converted motel, Seabeds is one of Paihia’s best hostels. Little design touches give it a stylish ambience, and it’s in a quieter location than most of Paihia’s more social hostels along Kings Rd.

Peppertree Lodge HOSTEL $

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( 09-402 6122; www.peppertree.co.nz; 15 Kings Rd; dm $25-28, r $72-110; ) Simple, clean rooms with high ceilings and good linen, plus bikes, racquets, kayaks and two barbecues for guests’ use, making this a sociable choice.

Pickled Parrot HOSTEL $

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( 09-402 6222; www.pickledparrot.co.nz; Greys Lane; sites per person $19, dm $26, r $66-84; ) Surrounded by tropical plants, this friendly, well-maintained backpackers’ stalwart has cute cabins, free bikes and a good vibe.

Cap’n Bob’s Beachhouse HOSTEL $

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( 09-402 8668; www.capnbobs.co.nz; 44 Davis Cres; dm/s/tw/d $25/49/64/86; ) This small backpackers is a homely place, with sea views from the verandah, and more than a touch of easygoing charm.

Beachside Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 09-402 7678; www.beachsideholiday.co.nz; 1290 SH11; sites/units from $18/65; ) Wake up at the water’s edge at this sheltered camping ground, south of the township. The angular lemon cabins have 1970s charm, and there are kayaks for hire.

Bay of Islands Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 09-402 7646; www.bayofislandsholidaypark.co.nz; 678 Puketona Rd; site/unit from $38/70; ) Under tall trees by a set of shallow rapids on the Waitangi River, 7km down Puketona Rd, this wonderful holiday park has excellent units and shady campsites.

Tarlton’s Lodge B&B $$

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( 09-402 6711; www.tarltonslodge.co.nz; 11 Sullivans Rd; r $175-220; ) Striking architecture combines with modern decor in this hilltop B&B with expansive bay views. All three suites have their own outdoor spa, perfect for a romantic stay. Look forward to excellent breakfasts.

Baystay B&B B&B $$

( 09-402 7511; www.baystay.co.nz; 93a Yorke Rd, Haruru Falls; r $140-175; ) Enjoy valley views from the spa pool of this slick, gay-friendly establishment. Yorke Rd is off Puketona Rd, just before the falls. Minimum stay of two nights; no children under 12.

Cook’s Lookout MOTEL $$

( 09-402 7409; www.cookslookout.co.nz; Causeway Rd; r $145-175, apt $255; ) Cook’s Lookout is an old-fashioned motel with friendly owners, breathtaking views and a solar-heated swimming pool. Take Puketona Rd towards Haruru Falls, turn right into Yorke Rd and then take the second right.

Admiral’s View Lodge MOTEL $$

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( 09-402 6236; www.admiralsviewlodge.co.nz; 2 MacMurray Rd; apt $120-195; ) This hillside lodge offers natty units with balconies just begging for a relaxed sunset gin and tonic. Some have spa baths and bay views.

Allegra House B&B $$$

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( 09-402 7932; www.allegra.co.nz; 39 Bayview Rd; r $220-245, apt $275; ) Offering quite astonishing views of the bay from an eyrie high above the township, Allegra has three handsome B&B rooms and a spacious self-contained apartment.

Eating

El Cafe CAFE, SOUTH AMERICAN $

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(2 Kings Rd; snacks $5-10; 8am-5pm) Excellent Chilean-owned cafe with the best coffee in town and good breakfast burritos, tacos, empanadas and Latin American sweet treats. The smoothies are also great on on a warm Bay of Islands day. Say hola to owner Javier for us.

Shippey’s FISH & CHIPS $

(www.shippeys.com; Waitangi Bridge; mains $7-16; 11am-late) Tuck into fresh fish and chips served as the good Lord intended them – in newspaper with a cold beverage in hand – onboard a permanently moored 19th­-century tall ship. The views over the inlet and bay are magical, particularly at sunset.

Paihia Farmers Market MARKET $

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(www.bayofislandsfarmersmarket.org.nz; Village Green; 2-5.30pm Thu) Stock up on local fruit, vegetables, pickles, preserves, honey, fish, smallgoods, eggs, cheese, bread, wine and oil, straight from the producer.

Countdown SUPERMARKET $

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(6 Puketona Rd; 7am-9pm) The main place to stock up on provisions.

Whare Waka CAFE $$

(Waitangi Treaty Grounds; mains $15-24; 9am-5pm) Located beside a pond studded with ducks, backed by bush and overlooking the Treaty Grounds, the Whare Waka cafe is a top spot for good cafe fare during the day, and to return to for a hangi dinner on Wednesday and Saturday evenings from December to March.

Alfresco’s PUB $$

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( 09-402 6797; www.alfrescosrestaurantpaihia.com; 6 Marsden Rd; breakfast & lunch $12-20, dinner $18-33; 8am-late) Locals flock to this casual restaurant-cafe-bar for great food – including lots of local seafood – and reasonable prices. Settle in for live music from 3pm to 6pm every Sunday afternoon. There’s Happy Hour bar prices from 3pm to 6pm every day too.

35 Degrees South MODERN NZ, SEAFOOD $$

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(www.35south.co.nz; 69 Marsden Rd; shared plates $10-15, mains $25-30) Service was a bit disorganised when we visited, but you can’t beat the over-the-water location in central Paihia. The menu is at its best with local oysters and fish and the shared small plates. Try the tempura fish tortillas, and maybe share a dessert of Dutch raisin doughnuts.

Drinking

God bless backpackers: they certainly keep the bars buzzing. There are plenty of places along Kings Rd and in the town centre to explore, so don’t feel hemmed in by our list.

Pipi Patch Bar BAR

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(18 Kings Rd; 5pm-late) The party hostel has the party bar: a popular spot with large video screens and a decent terrace. You’ll be shuffled inside at midnight to keep the neighbours happy – although most of them are backpackers who’ll be here anyway.

Sauce BEER

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(Marsden Rd; pizza $12-22; 11am-late Tue-Sun) Design-your-own pizzas plus the added attraction of excellent craft beer on tap from Hamilton’s Good George Brewery.

Bay of Islands Swordfish Club BAR

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(Swordy; www.swordfish.co.nz; upstairs, 96 Marsden Rd; 4pm-late) Great views, cold beer and tall tales abound at this brightly lit club-bar where creatures from the deep protrude from every available surface. Decent burgers, steaks and seafood ($12 to $28) are also served.

Information

Bay of Islands i-SITE ( 09-402 7345; www.northlandnz.com; Marsden Rd; 8am-5pm Mar–mid-Dec, to 7pm mid-Dec–Feb) Information and bookings.

Getting There & Around

All buses serving Paihia, such as InterCity and Naked Bus, stop at the Maritime Building by the wharf.

Ferries depart regularly for Russell.

For bikes, visit Bay Beach Hire (Click here).

Urupukapuka Island

The largest of the bay’s islands, Urupukapuka is a tranquil place criss-crossed with walking trails and surrounded by aquamarine waters. Native birds are plentiful thanks to a conservation initiative that has rendered this and all of the neighbouring islands predator free; check that there aren’t any rats, mice or ants stowing away on your boat or in your gear before leaving the ­mainland.

Most of the regular boat tours moor at Otehei Bay for a little island time; if you want to stay over, you can usually arrange to split the trip up and return at a later date. There are DOC campsites (www.doc.govt.nz; sites per adult/child $10/5) at Cable, Sunset and Urupukapuka Bays, which have water supplies, cold showers (except Sunset Bay) and composting toilets; bring food, a stove and fuel.

The Waterfront Bar & Cafe (www.otehei­bay.co.nz; Otehei Bay; mains $15-25; 11am-8pm) serves light meals and snacks to boat-tour passengers, and at the height of summer also offers evening meals. Kayaks can be rented on the island from Bay of Islands Kayaking ( 021 272 3353; www.bayofislands­kayaking.co.nz; hire from $10, island transfer & guided paddle $160) .

Kerikeri

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Kerikeri means ‘dig dig’, which is apt, as lots of digging goes on around the area’s fertile farmland. Famous for its oranges, Kerikeri also produces kiwifruit, vegetables and wine. If you’re looking for some back-breaking, poorly paid work that the locals aren’t keen to do, your working holiday starts here.

A snapshot of early Maori and Pakeha (European New Zealander) interaction is offered by a cluster of historic sites centred on the picturesque river basin. In 1819 the powerful Ngapuhi chief Hongi Hika allowed Rev Samuel Marsden to start a mission under the shadow of his Kororipo Pa. There’s an ongoing campaign to have the area recognised as a Unesco World Heri­tage Site.

Sights & Activities

Stone Store
& Mission House HISTORIC BUILDINGS

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(www.historic.org.nz; 246 Kerikeri Rd; 10am-4pm) Dating from 1836, the Stone Store is NZ’s oldest stone building. It sells interesting Kiwiana gifts as well as the type of goods that used to be sold in the store. Tours ($10) of the wooden Mission House, NZ’s oldest building (1822), depart from here and include entry to The Soul Trade exhibition on the 1st floor of the store.

Just up the hill is a marked historical walk, which leads to the site of Kororipo Pa. Huge war parties led by Hika once departed from here, terrorising much of the North Island and slaughtering thousands during the Musket Wars. The role of missionaries in arming Ngapuhi remains controversial. The walk emerges near the cute wooden St James Anglican Church (1878).

Rewa’s Village MUSEUM

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(Landing Rd; adult/child $5/1; 9.30am-4.30pm) If you had a hard time imagining Kororipo Pa in its original state, take the footbridge across the river to this fascinating mock-up of a traditional Maori fishing village.

Aroha Island WILDLIFE RESERVE

( 09-407 5243; www.arohaisland.co.nz; 177 Rangitane Rd; 9.30am-5.30pm) Reached via a permanent causeway through the mangroves, this 5-hectare island provides a haven for the North Island brown kiwi and other native birds, as well as a pleasant picnic spot for their nonfeathered admirers. It has a visitor centre, kayaks for rent, and after-dark walks to spy kiwi in the wild (per person $35) can also be arranged. You’ve got around a 50% chance of seeing a kiwi, and booking ahead is essential.

Kerikeri River Track WALKING

Starting from Kerikeri Basin, this 4km-long track leads past Wharepuke Falls OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP and the Fairy Pools to the Rainbow Falls, where the sheet of water encloses a moss-covered cavern. Alternatively, you can reach the Rainbow Falls from Rainbow Falls Rd, in which case it’s only a 10-minute walk.

Sleeping

Relax a Lodge HOMESTAY $

( 09-407 6989; www.relaxalodge.co.nz; 1574 Springbank Rd/SH10; s $55, d & tw $70-90, cottages $110-135; ) Less a farm, more an orange grove, this quiet rural house 4km out of town sleeps just 12 people and is a cosy and welcoming place. Some newly refurbished cottages dotted around the property are also very good value.

Aroha Island CAMPSITE $

( 09-407 5243; www.arohaisland.co.nz; 177 Rangitane Rd; sites/units from $18/119) Kip among the kiwi on the eco island of aroha (love). There’s a wide range of reasonably priced options, from the peaceful campsites with basic facilities by the shelly beach to a whole house. The entire island, indoors and out, is nonsmoking.

Pagoda Lodge LODGE, CAMPSITE $$

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( 09-407 8617; www.pagoda.co.nz; 81 Pa Rd; sites/safari tent/caravan from $40/120/130, apt $120-350; ) Built in the 1930s by an oddball Scotsman with an Asian fetish, this lodge features pagoda-shaped roofs grafted onto wooden cottages. The property descends to the river and is dotted with Buddhas, gypsy caravans, and safari tents with proper beds, or you can pitch your own. To get here, take Cobham Rd, turn left into Kerikeri Inlet Rd and then left into Pa Rd.

Kauri Park MOTEL $$

( 09-407 7629; www.kauripark.co.nz; 512 Kerikeri Rd; units $130-170; ) Hidden behind tall trees on the approach to Kerikeri, this well-priced motel has a mixture of units of varying layouts – some quite stylishly furnished and others a little more old fashioned.

Wharepuke Subtropical Accommodation CABINS $$

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( 09-407 8933; www.accommodation-bay-of-islands.co.nz; 190 Kerikeri Rd; cabins $150; ) Best known for its food and lush gardens, Wharepuke also rents five self-contained one-bedroom cottages hidden among the palms. They have the prefabricated look of holiday-park cabins but are a step up in terms of fixtures and space.

Bed of Roses B&B $$$

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( 09-407 4666; www.bedofroses.co.nz; 165 Kerikeri Rd; r $295-475; ) It’s all petals and no thorns at this stylish B&B, furnished with French antiques, luxe linens and comfy beds. The house has an art-deco ambience and awesome views.

Eating & Drinking

Cafe Jerusalem MIDDLE EASTERN $

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(www.cafejerusalem.co.nz; Village Mall, 85 Kerikeri Rd; snacks & mains $9-18; 10am-late Mon-Sat, 5pm-late Sun in summer) Northland’s best felafels and lamb kebabs, all served with a smile and a social vibe. Good salads, and wine and and beer are also available. Try the shakshuka (baked eggs in a spicy tomato sauce) for a hearty brunch.

Fishbone CAFE, BAR $

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(www.fishbonecafe.co.nz; 88 Kerikeri Rd; mains $10-18; 8am-4pm Mon-Wed, to 8pm Thu-Fri, 8.30am-3pm Sat & Sun) Kerikeri’s best brekkie spot serves excellent coffee and food. Dr Seuss fans should try the green (pesto) eggs and ham. From 4pm to 7pm on Thursdays and Fridays, Fishbone morphs into a wine bar.

The Village Cafe CAFE $

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(Village Mall, 85 Kerikeri Rd; mains $10-17; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, to 2pm Sat & Sun) This chic and cosmopolitan spot is popular with locals for good coffee, freshly prepared counter food, and a relaxed menu of brunch and lunch dishes. Grab a table outside in the Northland sunshine, and order the hearty potato hash.

Cafe Zest CAFE, BAR $

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(73 Kerikeri Rd; mains $10-19; 7.30am-4pm Mon-Wed, to 8.30pm Thu-Sat, to 2pm Sun) Cute Zest serves cafe fare during the day and tapas in the evening, but the main reason to drop by is to sample wines from all of the local ­producers. Just next door the owners have opened a funky space serving freshly made waffles.

Food at Wharepuke CAFE $$

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( 09-407 8936; www.foodatwharepuke.co.nz; 190 Kerikeri Rd; breakfast $14-22, lunch $24-38, dinner $30-40; 10am-10pm Tue-Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) With one foot in Europe, the other in Thailand and its head in the lush vegetation of Wharepuke Subtropical Gardens, this is Kerikeri’s most unusual and inspired eatery. On Friday nights it serves popular Thai banquets (three courses $47.50), while on Sunday afternoons it hosts live jazz. Adjacent is the interesting Wharepuke Print Studio & Gallery.

Pear Tree RESTAURANT, BAR $$

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( 09-407 8479; www.thepeartree.co.nz; 215 Kerikeri Rd; lunch $15-20, dinner $25-32; 10am-2pm daily, 6pm-late Wed-Mon) Kerikeri’s best-located and most upmarket restaurant ­occupies an old homestead right on the basin (book ahead for a table on the verandah). Mains run the gamut of bistro favourites, along with the occasional Asian dish.

Information

Procter Library (Cobham Rd; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun; ) Tourist information and free internet access.

Getting There & Away

Air

Bay of Islands (Kerikeri) Airport ( 09-407 7147; www.bayofislandsairport.co.nz; 218 Wiroa Rd) is 8km southwest of town. Air New Zealand flies from Auckland to Kerikeri. Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz; $25) operates a shuttle service from the airport to Kerikeri, Paihia, Opua and Kawakawa.

Bus

InterCity (Click here) and partner buses leave from a stop at 9 Cobham Rd, opposite the library.

The Far North

Here’s your chance to get off the beaten track, even if that does mean onto unsealed roads. The far-flung Far North always play second fiddle to the Bay of Islands for attention and funding, yet the subtropical tip of the North Island has more breathtaking coastline per square kilometre than anywhere but the offshore islands. While the ‘winterless north’ may be a popular misnomer, summers here are long and leisurely. Note that parts of the Far North are noticeably economically depressed and in places could best be described as gritty. Online see www.topofnz.co.nz.