Marlborough & Nelson
Why Go
For many travellers, Marlborough and Nelson will be their introduction to what South Islanders refer to as the ‘Mainland’. Having left windy Wellington, and made a white-knuckled crossing of Cook Strait, folk are often surprised to find the sun shining and the temperature up to 10 degrees warmer.
These top-of-the-south neighbours have much in common beyond an amenable climate: both boast renowned coastal holiday spots, particularly the Marlborough Sounds, Abel Tasman National Park and Kaikoura. There are two other national parks (Kahurangi and Nelson Lakes) amid more mountain ranges than you can poke a walking pole at.
And so it follows that these two regions have an abundance of produce, from game and seafood to summer fruits, but most famously the grapes that work their way into the wineglasses of the world’s finest restaurants. Keep your penknife and picnic set at the ready.
When to Go
» The forecast is good: Marlborough and Nelson soak up some of New Zealand’s sunniest weather, with January and February the warmest months when daytime temperatures average 22°C.
» July is the coldest, averaging 12°C. However, the top of the South sees some wonderful winter weather, with frosty mornings often giving way to sparklingly clear skies and T-shirt temperatures.
» The rumours are true: it is wetter and more windswept the closer you get to the West Coast.
» From around Christmas to mid-February, the top of the South teems with Kiwi holidaymakers, so plan ahead during this time and be prepared to jostle for position with a load of jandal-wearing families.
Best Places to Eat
» Rock Ferry (Click here)
» Hopgood’s (Click here)
» Green Dolphin (Click here)
» Sans Souci Inn (Click here)
Best Places to Stay
» Te Mahia Bay Resort (Click here)
» Watson’s Way (Click here)
» South Street Cottages (Click here)
» Kerr Bay Campsite (Click here)
Marlborough & Nelson Highlights
Getting up close to wildlife,
including whales, seals, dolphins and albatross, in Kaikoura (Click
here)
Nosing your way through the
Marlborough Wine Region
(Click
here)
Tramping or biking the
Queen Charlotte Track
(Click
here) in the Marlborough Sounds
Eating and drinking your way along
Nelson’s Great Taste Trail
(Click
here)
Sea kayaking in postcard-perfect
Abel Tasman National Park
(Click
here)
Getting blown away at Blenheim’s
Omaka Aviation Heritage
Centre (Click
here), one of New Zealand’s best museums
Driving through a dunescape to
Farewell Spit (Click
here), where there’ll be gannets and godwits for company
Reaching the wild West Coast on
foot, across Kahurangi National Park on the Heaphy Track (Click
here)
Getting There & Around
Cook Strait can be crossed slowly and scenically on the ferries between Wellington and Picton, and swiftly on flights servicing key destinations.
InterCity is the major bus operator, but there are also local shuttles. From October to May, KiwiRail’s Coastal Pacific train takes the scenic route from Picton to Christchurch, via Blenheim and Kaikoura.
Renting a car is easy, with a slew of car-hire offices in Picton and depots throughout the region.
Popular coastal areas such as the Marlborough Sounds and Abel Tasman National Park are best navigated on foot or by kayak, with water-taxi services readily available to join the dots.
Marlborough Region
Picton is the gateway to the South Island and the launching point for Marlborough Sounds exploration. A cork’s pop south of Picton is Blenheim and its world-famous wineries, and further south still is Kaikoura, the whale-watching town.
Marlborough Sounds
Sleeping
History
Long before Abel Tasman sheltered on the east coast of D’Urville Island in 1642 (more than 100 years before James Cook blew through in 1770), Maori knew the Marlborough area as Te Tau Ihu o Te Waka a Maui (the prow of Maui’s canoe). It was Cook who named Queen Charlotte Sound; his reports made the area the best-known sheltered anchorage in the southern hemisphere. In 1827 French navigator Jules Dumont d’Urville discovered the narrow strait now known as French Pass. His officers named the island just to the north in his honour. In the same year a whaling station was established at Te Awaiti in Tory Channel, which brought about the first permanent European settlement in the district.
ESSENTIAL MARLBOROUGH & NELSON
Eat Doris’ bratwurst at the weekend markets in Nelson and Motueka
Drink A pint of Captain Cooker at Golden Bay’s Mussel Inn (Click here)
Read How to Drink a Glass of Wine by John Saker
Listen to The dawn chorus in Nelson Lakes National Park
Watch The tide roll in, and then watch it roll away again…
Festival Marlborough Wine Festival
Go Green On the Heaphy Track a hotbed of ecological wonderment
Online www.lovemarlborough.co.nz; www.nelsonnz.com; www.kaikoura.co.nz
Area
code 
03
Picton
Pop 2750
Half asleep in winter, but hyperactive in summer (with up to eight fully laden ferry arrivals per day), boaty Picton clusters around a deep gulch at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. It’s the main traveller port for the South Island, and the best base for tackling the Marlborough Sounds and Queen Charlotte Track. Over the last few years this little town has really bloomed, and offers visitors plenty of reason to linger even after the obvious attractions are knocked off the list.
Picton
Activities, Courses &
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking &
Nightlife
Entertainment
Sights & Activities
The majority of activity happens around the Marlborough Sounds, but landlubbers will still find plenty to occupy themselves.
The town has some very pleasant walks. A free i-SITE map details many of these, including an easy 1km track to Bob’s Bay. The Snout Track (three hours return) continues along the ridge offering superb water views. Climbing a hill behind the town, the Tirohanga Track is a two-hour leg-stretching loop offering the best view in the house. For town explorations, hire bikes for the whole family from Wilderness Guides (Click here).
Edwin Fox Maritime Museum MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.edwinfoxsociety.co.nz; Dunbar Wharf;
adult/child $10/4; 
9am-5pm) Purportedly the world’s
third-oldest wooden ship, the Edwin Fox was built in
Calcutta and launched in 1853. During its career it carried troops
to the Crimean War, convicts to Australia and immigrants to NZ.
This museum has maritime exhibits, including the venerable old dear
herself.
Eco World Aquarium WILDLIFE CENTRE
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.ecoworldnz.co.nz; Dunbar Wharf;
adult/child/family $22/10/55; 10am-5.30pm Oct-Apr, 10am-4pm May-Sep)
The primary purpose of this
centre is animal rehabilitation: all sorts of critters come here
for fix-ups and rest-ups, and the odd bit of hanky panky! Special
specimens include NZ’s ‘living dinosaur’ – the tuatara – as well as
blue penguins, gecko and giant weta. Fish-feeding time (11am and
2pm) is a splashy spectacle. Sharing the ageing building is the
Picton Cinema
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
( 03-573 6030; www.pictoncinemas.co.nz; Dunbar Wharf;
adult/child $15/9) , screening mainstream and edgy
flicks.
(London Quay;
adult/child $5/1; 10am-4pm) If you dig local history –
whaling, sailing and the 1964 Roller Skating Champs – this will
float your boat. The photo displays are well worth a look,
especially for five bucks.
Sleeping
Tombstone Backpackers HOSTEL $
(
03-573 7116, 0800 573
7116; www.tombstonebp.co.nz; 16 Gravesend Pl;
dm $28-29, d with/without bathroom $85/78; 
) Rest in peace in
smart dorms, double rooms or a self-contained apartment ($118).
Also on offer is a spa overlooking the harbour, free breakfast,
sunny reading room, pool table, free internet, ferry pick-up and
drop-off… The list goes on.
(
03-573 5570; www.jugglersrest.com; 8 Canterbury St;
campsites from $19, dm $32, d $70-75;
closed Jun-Sep; ) Jocular hosts keep all their
balls up in the air at this well-run, ecofriendly, bunk-free
backpackers. Peacefully located 10 minutes’ walk from town or even
less on a free bike. Cheery, private gardens are a good place to
socialise with fellow travellers, especially during the occasional
fire shows.
Sequoia Lodge Backpackers HOSTEL $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-573 8399, 0800 222 257;
www.sequoialodge.co.nz; 3a Nelson Sq; dm
$26-29, d with/without bathroom $78/68; ) A well-managed
backpackers in a colourful, high-ceilinged Victorian house. It’s a
little out of the centre, but has bonuses including free wi-fi,
hammocks, barbecues, a hot tub and nightly pudding. Complimentary
breakfast May to October.
(
03-573 5002; www.buccaneerlodge.co.nz; 314 Waikawa
Rd; s/d/tr $75/85/110;
) The owners have spruced up
this Waikawa Bay lodge to offer good en suite rooms, many with
expansive views from the 1st-floor balcony. Courtesy town
transfers, free bike hire and the pretty foreshore just five
minutes’ walk away.
Parklands
Marina
Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
(
03-573 6343, 0800 111 104;
www.parktostay.co.nz; 10 Beach Rd,
Waikawa; campsites from $30, units $55-95; 
) Large, leafy campground with grassy
sites, satisfactory cabins, plus ready access to boat-ilicious
Waikawa Bay and Victoria Domain. It’s a pleasant 3km walk/cycle to
town. Courtesy transfers available.
MAORI NZ: MARLBOROUGH
& NELSON
While Maori culture on the South Island is much less evident than in the north, it can still be found in pockets, and particularly around coastal Marlborough.
Kaikoura is rich in Maori history, into which Maori Tours Kaikoura (Click here) can offer an insight. The Marlborough Sounds, too, has some stories to tell. Plug into them on eco-oriented tours and wildlife cruises with Myths & Legends Eco-Tours (Click here).
Picton Top 10 Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-573 7212, 0800 277 444;
www.pictontop10.co.nz; 70 Waikawa Rd;
campsites from $21, units $75-160; ) About 500m from town, this compact,
well-kept place has plenty of lawn and picnic benches, plus
crowd-pleasing facilities including playground, barbecue area and
swimming pool.
(
03-573 6259, 0800 101 133;
www.harbourviewpicton.co.nz; 30 Waikawa
Rd; d $125‑200; ) The elevated position of this motel
commands good views of Picton’s mast-filled harbour from its
tastefully decorated, self-contained studios with timber decks.
Bay Vista Waterfront Motel MOTEL $$
(
03-573 6733; www.bayvistapicton.co.nz; 303 Waikawa
Rd, Waikawa; d $130-185; ) This motel enjoys an enviable position on
Waikawa foreshore, with views down Queen Charlotte Sound. All units
have their own patio and share a big, lush lawn. Located 4km from
Picton (courtesy transfer available by request).
(
03-573 6772; www.thegables.co.nz; 20 Waikawa Rd; s
$100, d $140-170, units $155-200, all incl breakfast;
) This historic B&B (once home to
Picton’s mayor) has three individually styled en suite rooms in the
main house and two homely self-contained units out the back. Prices
drop if you organise your own breakfast. Lovely hosts show good
humour (ask about the Muffin Club).
Whatamonga Homestay HOMESTAY $$
OFFLINE MAP(
03-573 7192; www.whsl.co.nz; 425 Port Underwood Rd;
d incl breakfast $175;
) Follow Waikawa Rd, which
becomes Port Underwood Rd, for 8km and you’ll bump into this classy
waterside option – two self-contained units with king-sized beds
and balconies with magic views. Two other rooms under the main
house (also with views) share a bathroom. Free kayaks, dinghies and
fishing gear are available.
Eating & Drinking
Picton Village Bakkerij BAKERY $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(cnr Auckland
& Dublin Sts; items $3-8; 6am-4pm) Dutch owners bake trays of
European goodies here, including interesting breads, filled rolls,
cakes and custardy, tarty treats. An excellent stop before or after
the ferry.
(33 High St;
meals $14-20; 7.30am-2.30pm; 
) This friendly and hard-working joint does
beaut breakfasts including first-class salmon-scrambled egg and a
‘Morning Glory’ fry-up worth the calories. Lunch options include
local mussels or a steak sandwich.
Fresh Choice Supermarket SUPERMARKET $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(Mariners Mall,
100 High St; 7am-9pm) Pretty much the only choice, and
fortunately a good one.
Le Café CAFÉ $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.lecafepicton.co.nz; London Quay;
lunch $12-24, dinner $20-34; 7.30am-10.30pm; ) A perennially popular spot for its
quayside location, dependable food and Havana coffee. The likes of
salami sandwiches and sweets are in the cabinet, while a good
antipasto platter, generous pasta, local mussels, lamb and fish
dishes feature à la carte. Laid-back atmosphere, craft beer and
occasional live gigs make this a good evening hang-out.
(www.cortado.co.nz; cnr High St &
London Quay; mains $17-36; 8am-late) A pleasant corner cafe and bar
with sneaky views of the harbour through the foreshore’s pohutukawa
and palms. This consistent performer turns out fish dishes, good
cheeseburgers and decent pizza.
(25 Wellington
St; meals $20-24; noon-1am) A snug drinking den, pouring a
reliable Guinness and a good selection of whiskies. Mix this up
with hearty food, regular live music and a sunny garden bar, and
you’ve got the liveliest joint in town.
Picton i-SITE
( 03-520 3113; www.lovemarlborough.co.nz;
Foreshore; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun) All
vital tourist guff including maps, Queen Charlotte Track
information, lockers and transport bookings. Dedicated Department
of Conservation (DOC) counter.
Picton Library
(67 High St;
8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat;
) Free wi-fi.
Post Office (Mariners Mall, 72 High St)
Getting There & Away
Make bookings for nationwide transport at Picton i-SITE.
Air
Soundsair (
03-520 3080, 0800 505 005;
www.soundsair.co.nz) Flies daily
between Picton and Wellington (adult/child from $95/85); a shuttle
bus to/from the airstrip at Koromiko, 8km south, costs $7.
Boat
There are two operators crossing Cook Strait between Picton and Wellington, and, although all ferries leave from more or less the same place, each has its own terminal. The main transport hub (with car-rental depots) is at the Interislander Terminal, which also has public showers, a cafe and internet facilities.
Bluebridge Ferries ( 0800 844 844, in Wellington 04-471 6188; www.bluebridge.co.nz; adult/child from
$51/26; ) crossings takes 3½ hours, and the company
runs up to four sailings in each direction daily. Cars and
campervans from $118, motorbikes $51, bicycles $10. The sleeper
service arrives in Picton at 6am.
Interislander ( 0800 802 802; www.interislander.co.nz; adult/child
$55/28) Crossings take three hours 10 minutes; up to five
sailings in each direction daily. Cars are priced from $118,
campervans (up to 5.5m) from $133, motorbikes $56, bicycles
$15.
Bus
Buses serving Picton depart from the Interislander terminal or nearby i-SITE.
InterCity (
03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) runs south
to Christchurch (5½ hours) via Blenheim (30 minutes) and Kaikoura
(2½ hours), with connections to Dunedin, Queenstown and
Invercargill. Services also run to/from Nelson (2¼ hours), with
connections to Motueka and the West Coast. At least one bus daily
on each of these routes connects with a Wellington ferry
service.
Smaller shuttle buses running from Picton
to Christchurch include Atomic Shuttles ( 03-349 0697, 0508 108 359; www.atomictravel.co.nz), which
can also be booked via Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) .
Train
KiwiRail Scenic ( 04-495 0775, 0800 872 467; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz) Runs
the Coastal Pacific service daily (October to May) each
way between Picton and Christchurch via Blenheim and Kaikoura (and
22 tunnels and 175 bridges!), departing Christchurch at 7am, Picton
at 1pm. Adult one-way Picton–Christchurch fares range from $79 to
$159. The service connects with the Interislander ferry.
Getting Around
Shuttle services around town and beyond
are offered by
Picton Shuttles ( 027 696 5207) . Cheap transport along the
Queen Charlotte Drive between Picton and Havelock is offered by
Coleman Post ( 027 255 8882; $15) .
Renting a car in Picton is easy and
competitively priced (as low as $35 per day), with numerous rental
companies based at the Interislander ferry terminal and many others
within a short walk. Ace (
03-573 8939; www.acerentalcars.co.nz; Ferry
Terminal) , Omega (
03-573 5580; www.omegarentalcars.com; 1 Lagoon
Rd) and
Pegasus ( 03-573 7733; www.carrentalspicton.co.nz; 1 Auckland
St) are reliable local operators. Most agencies allow
drop-offs in Christchurch; if you’re planning to drive the North
Island, most companies suggest you leave your car at Picton and
pick up another one in Wellington after crossing Cook Strait.
EXPLORING THE MARLBOROUGH SOUNDS
The Marlborough Sounds are a maze of peaks, bays, beaches and watery reaches, formed when the sea flooded deep river valleys after the last ice age. They are very convoluted: Pelorus Sound, for example, is 42km long but has 379km of shoreline.
Many spectacular locations can be reached by car. The wiggly 35km drive along Queen Charlotte Drive from Picton to Havelock is a great Sounds snapshot, but if you have a spare day, head out to French Pass (or even D’Urville Island ) for some big-picture framing of the Outer Sounds. Roads are predominantly narrow and occasionally unsealed; allow plenty of driving time and keep your wits about you.
Sounds travel is invariably quicker by boat (for example, Punga Cove from Picton by car takes two to three hours, but just 45 minutes by boat). Fortunately, an armada of vessels offer scheduled and on-demand boat services, with the bulk operating out of Picton for the Queen Charlotte Sound, and some from Havelock for Kenepuru and Pelorus Sounds.
There are walking, kayaking and biking opportunities, but there’s diving as well – notably the wreck of the Mikhail Lermontov, a Russian cruise ship that sank in Port Gore in 1986.
From Picton
Most of Picton’s boat operators depart from the smart Town Wharf. They offer everything from direct lodge transfers to cruises taking in sites such as Ship Cove and Motuara Island bird sanctuary, to round-trip Queen Charlotte Track transport and pack transfers that allow trampers to walk without a heavy burden. Bikes and kayaks can also be transported.
Cougar Line
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP ( 03-573 7925, 0800 504 090; www.cougarlinecruises.co.nz; Town Wharf;
track round trip $105, full-day tour from $80) Queen
Charlotte Track transport, plus various half- and full-day
cruise/walk trips, including the rather special (and flexible)
ecocruise to
Motuara Island and a Ship Cove picnic.
Beachcomber Fun Cruises
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
( 03-573 6175, 0800 624 526; www.beachcombercruises.co.nz; Town
Wharf; mail run $93, cruises from $35, track round trip $99)
Two- to four-hour cruises, some with resort lunches. Cruise/walk,
cruise/bike and Queen Charlotte Track options available.
Wilderness Guides
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP ( 03-573 5432, 0800 266 266; www.wildernessguidesnz.com; Town Wharf;
1-day trip from $120, kayak/bike hire per day $60) Host of
the popular and flexible one- to three-day ‘multisport’ trips
(kayak/walk/cycle) plus many other guided and independent biking,
hiking and kayaking tours including a remote Ship Cove paddle. A
good range of bicycles also available for hire.
Marlborough Sounds
Adventure Company
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
( 03-573 6078, 0800 283 283; www.marlboroughsounds.co.nz; Town Wharf;
half- to 3-day packages $85-545) Bike-walk-kayak trips, with
options to suit every inclination and duration. A top day option is
the kayak and hike ($175). Gear rental (bikes, kayaks and camping
equipment) also available.
Dolphin Watch Nature Tours
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
( 03-573 8040, 0800 945 354; www.naturetours.co.nz; Town Wharf;
dolphin swimming/viewing $165/99, other tours from $75)
Half-day ‘swim with dolphins’ and wildlife tours including trips to
Motuara Island.
Myths
& Legends Eco-Tours ( 03-573 6901; www.eco-tours.co.nz; half-/full-day
cruises $200/250) A chance to get out on the water with a
local Maori family – longtime locals, storytellers and
environmentalists. There are six different trips to choose from,
including bird-watching and visiting Ship Cove.
Marlborough Travel
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP ( 03-577 9997, 0800 990 800; www.marlboroughtravel.co.nz; Town Wharf;
adult/child $135/55; departs 1.30pm) Runs the 3½-hour ‘Seafood
Odyssea’ cruise to a salmon farm, complete with salmon snack and
sauvignon blanc.
Dive
Boat Picton (
03-573 7199, 0800 934 837; www.ninedives.co.nz; 6hr trip
$195) Offers dive trips around the Sounds taking in marine
reserves and various wrecks including the Mikhail
Lermontov, plus diver training. Snorkelling and seal-swims
also available.
Arrow
Water Taxis (
027 444 4689, 03-573 8229; www.arrowwatertaxis.co.nz; Town
Wharf) Pretty much anywhere, on demand, for groups of four
or more.
Picton Water Taxis ( 027 227 0284, 03-573 7853; www.pictonwatertaxis.co.nz) Water
taxi and sightseeing trips around Queen Charlotte, on demand.
Float
Plane (
03-573 6866, 021 704 248; www.nz-scenic-flights.co.nz; Ferry
Terminal; flights from $75) Offers Queen Charlotte Track and
Sounds accommodation transfers, scenic flights, and flights and
trips to Nelson, the Abel Tasman National Park and to the lower
North Island.
From Anakiwa
Sea Kayak Adventures
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-574 2765, 0800 262 5492; www.nzseakayaking.com; cnr Queen
Charlotte Dr & Anakiwa Rd; half-/two-day guided paddle
$85/190) Guided and ‘guided then go’ kayaking with bike/hike
options around Queen Charlotte, Kenepuru and Pelorus Sounds plus
freedom kayak and mountain-bike rental (half-/full-day $40/60).
From Havelock
Pelorus Mail Boat ( 03-574 1088; www.mail-boat.co.nz; Jetty 1;
adult/child $128/free; departs 9.30am Tue, Thu & Fri) Popular
full-day boat cruise through the far reaches of Pelorus Sound on a
genuine NZ Post delivery run. Bookings essential; BYO lunch. Picton
and Blenheim pick-up and drop-off available.
Greenshell Mussel Cruise ( 0800 990 800, 03-577 9997; www.greenshellmusselcruise.co.nz;
adult/child $115/39; departs 1.30pm) Three-hour cruise on a
catamaran to mussel in on Kenepuru’s aquaculture. Includes a
tasting of steamed mussels and a glass of wine. Bookings
essential.
Waterways Boating Safaris
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-574 1372; www.waterways.co.nz; 745 Keneperu Rd;
half-/full-day $110/150) Be guided around Kenepuru Sound
while piloting your own zippy boat. A unique and fun way to get out
on the water, see the scenery and learn about the area’s ecology
and history. BYO lunch. Local pick-up and drop-offs.
Pelorus Sound Water Taxi ( 03-574 2151, 027 444 2852; www.pelorussoundwatertaxis.co.nz; Jetty
1a) Taxi and sightseeing trips from Havelock, around
Pelorus, on demand.
Kenepuru Water Taxi ( 03-573 4344, 021 455 593; www.kenepuru.co.nz; 7170 Kenepuru
Rd) Taxi and sightseeing trips around Kenepuru Sound, on
demand.
Queen Charlotte Track
The hugely popular, meandering, 70km Queen Charlotte Track offers gorgeous coastal scenery on its way from historic Ship Cove to Anakiwa, passing through a mixture of privately owned land and DOC reserves. Access depends on the cooperation of local landowners; respect their property by utilising designated campsites and toilets, and carrying out your rubbish. Your purchase of the Track Pass ($15 to $18), available from operators in town and on the track, provides the co-op with the means to maintain and enhance the experience for all.
Queen Charlotte is a well-defined track, suitable for people of average fitness. Numerous boat and tour operators service the track, allowing you to walk the whole three- to five-day journey, or start and finish where you like, on foot or by kayak or bike. We’re talking mountain biking here, and a whole lot of fun for fit, competent off-roaders. Part of the track is off-limits to cyclists from 1 December to the end of February, but there is still good riding to be had during this time.
Ship Cove is the usual (and recommended) starting point – mainly because it’s easier to arrange a boat from Picton to Ship Cove than vice versa – but the track can be started from Anakiwa. There’s a public phone at Anakiwa but not at Ship Cove.
Estimated walk times:
|
Track section |
Distance (km) |
Duration (hr) |
|---|---|---|
|
Ship Cove to |
4.5 |
1½-2 |
|
Resolution Bay to head of Endeavour Inlet |
10.5 |
2½-3 |
|
Endeavour Inlet to Camp Bay/Punga Cove |
12 |
3-4 |
|
Camp Bay/Punga Cove to Torea Saddle/Portage |
24 |
6-8 |
|
Torea Saddle/Portage to Te Mahia Saddle |
7.5 |
3-4 |
|
Te Mahia Saddle to Anakiwa |
12.5 |
3-4 |
Sleeping & Eating
The beauty of the Queen Charlotte Track is that there are plenty of great day-trip options, allowing you to base yourself in Picton. However, there is also plenty of accommodation, nicely spaced along the way, and boat operators will transport your luggage along the track for you.
At the self-sufficient end of the scale are six DOC campsites: Schoolhouse Bay OFFLINE MAP , Camp Bay, Bay of Many Coves OFFLINE MAP , Black Rock OFFLINE MAP , Cowshed Bay and Davies Bay OFFLINE MAP . All have toilets and a water supply but no cooking facilities. There’s also a variety of resorts, lodges, backpackers and guesthouses, of which our picks follow below, ordered from Ship Cove to Anakiwa. Unless you’re camping, it pays to book your accommodation waaay in advance, especially in summer.
Numerous cafes are also dotted along the
track, the majority of which will only be in full swing during high
summer. Some – namely those at Furneaux Lodge
OFFLINE MAP
(www.furneaux.co.nz) , Punga Cove Resort
OFFLINE MAP
(www.pungacove.co.nz; ) and Portage Resort Hotel (www.peppers.co.nz/portage;
) – are the in-house eateries of
long-standing but not necessarily shipshape Sounds resorts. We
recommend restricting your financial outlay to cold beer and bar
snacks at these destinations.
A list of sleeping and eating options can be found in the official Queen Charlotte Track Directory (www.qctrack.co.nz) .
OFFLINE MAP(
03-579 8444; www.cnocnalear.co.nz; Endeavour Inlet;
d/tr incl breakfast $195/255; ) Sitting just above the track with bay
views, this modern guesthouse offers plenty of home comforts
including dinner and packed lunches by arrangement, as well as
continental breakfast.
(
03-579 8373; www.mahanalodge.co.nz; Endeavour Inlet;
d $195; closed Jun-Aug) This beautiful property
features a pretty waterside lawn and purpose-built lodge with four
en suite doubles. Ecofriendly initiatives include bush
regeneration, pest trapping and organic veggie patch. In fact,
feel-good factors abound: free kayaks, home baking and a blooming
conservatory where the evening meal is served (three courses
$55).
(
03-579 8375; Endeavour
Inlet; dm $35-40) Follow the pink arrows from Camp Bay to
this relaxed homestay and be greeted by 70-something Noeline, ‘the
Universal Grandma’, and her home-baked treats. It’s a friendly
arrangement with beds for five people, cooking facilities and
great views.
Bay of Many Coves Resort RESORT $$$
OFFLINE MAP(
03-579 9771, 0800 579
9771; www.bayofmanycoves.co.nz; Bay of Many
Coves; 1-/2-/3-bedroom apt $640/845/995; ) These plush and
secluded apartments feature all mod cons and private balconies
overlooking the water. As well as upmarket cuisine, there are
various indulgences such as room service, massage, spa and hot
tub.
(
03-573 4522; www.stayportage.co.nz; s with/without
linen $50/45) The family-run duo of DeBretts and Treetops (
03-573 4404) offers
a combined total of six bedrooms in two homely backpackers on the
hill behind Portage Resort. Torea Bay bag transfers included.
(
03-573 4554; www.lochmaralodge.co.nz; Lochmara Bay;
units $95-295; ) This arty, ecoretreat can be
reached via the Queen Charlotte Track or direct from Picton aboard
the lodge’s water taxi ($55 return). There are en suite doubles,
units and chalets, all set in lush surroundings, and a fully
licensed cafe and restaurant, plus a bathhouse where you can
indulge in a spa or massage.
(
03-573 4048; www.mistletoebay.co.nz; Mistletoe Bay;
unpowered sites $32, dm/d $30/70, cabins $140, linen $7.50;
) Surrounded by bushy hills,
Mistletoe Bay offers attractive camping with no-frills facilities.
There are eight modern cabins sleeping up to six, plus a bunkhouse.
Environmental sustainability abounds, as does the opportunity to
jump off the jetty, kayak in the bay or walk the Queen Charlotte
Track.
(
03-573 4089; www.temahia.co.nz; d $148-248;
) This lovely
low-key resort is within cooee of the Queen Charlotte Track in a
picturesque bay on Kenepuru Sound. It has a range of delightful
rooms-with-a-view, our pick of which is the great-value heritage
units. The on-site store has pre-cooked meals, pizza, cakes, coffee
and camping supplies (wine!), plus there is kayak hire and
massage.
(
03-574 1388; www.anakiwabackpackers.co.nz; 401
Anakiwa Rd; dm $35, d $85-105; ) At the southern end of the track, this
former schoolhouse is a soothing spot to rest and reflect. There
are two doubles (one with en suite), a three-bed dorm and a beachy
self-contained unit. Jocular owners will have you jumping off the
jetty for joy and imbibing espresso and ice cream (hallelujah) from
their little green caravan (open summer afternoons). Provisions
available by arrangement and free kayak hire.
Smiths Farm Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
OFFLINE MAP(
03-574 2806, 0800 727 578;
www.smithsfarm.co.nz; 1419 Queen
Charlotte Dr, Linkwater; campsites from $16, cabins $60-130, units
$130; ) Located on the aptly named
Linkwater flat between Queen Charlotte and Pelorus, friendly Smiths
makes a handy base camp for the track and beyond. Well-kept cabins
and motel units face out onto the bushy hillside, while livestock
nibble around the lush camping lawns. Short walks extend to a
waterfall and magical glow-worm dell.
Information
The best place to get track information and advice is Picton i-SITE (Click here), which also handles bookings for transport and accommodation. See also the online Queen Charlotte Track Directory (www.qctrack.co.nz) .
Kenepuru & Pelorus Sounds
Kenepuru and Pelorus Sounds, to the west of Queen Charlotte Sound, are less populous and therefore offer fewer traveller services, including transport. There’s some cracking scenery, however, and those with time to spare will be well rewarded by their explorations.
Havelock is the hub of this area, the western bookend of the 35km Queen Charlotte Drive (Picton being the eastern) and the self-proclaimed ‘Greenshell Mussel Capital of the World’. While hardly the most rock-and-roll of NZ towns, Havelock offers most necessities, including accommodation, fuel and food. As you get out into the Sounds be prepared to encounter scant fuel and only the occasional shop, which may have frozen bread and out-of-date popsicles.
For finer detail, including a complete list of visitor services, visit www.pelorusnz.co.nz, which covers Havelock, Kenepuru and Pelorus Sounds, and the extremities of French Pass and D’Urville Island.
Sights & Activities
If a stroll through the streets of Havelock leaves you thinking that there must be more to this area, you’re right – and to get a taste of it you need go no further than the Cullen Point Lookout, 10 minutes’ drive from Havelock along the Queen Charlotte Drive. A short walk leads up and around a headland overlooking Havelock, the surrounding valleys and Pelorus Sound. Look out for the Havelock Map & Walkway Guide which details more walks in the area.
To venture out into the sounds themselves, Click here .
The Nydia Track (27km, 10 hours) starts at
Kaiuma Bay and ends at Duncan Bay (or vice versa). Around halfway
is beautiful Nydia Bay, where there’s a DOC
campsite (adult/child
$6/1.50) and Nydia Lodge
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-520 3002; www.doc.govt.nz; dm $15, minimum charge
$60) , an unhosted 50-bed lodge. Also in Nydia Bay, On the Track Lodge
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-579 8411; www.nydiatrack.org.nz; dm $40, d
$110-150) is a tranquil, ecofocused affair offering
everything from packed lunches to evening meals and a hot tub.
You’ll need water and road transport to complete the journey;
Havelock’s Blue Moon Lodge runs a shuttle to Duncan Bay.
Pelorus Eco Adventures KAYAKING
(
03-574 2212, 0800 252 663;
www.kayak-newzealand.com; Blue Moon
Lodge, 48 Main Rd, Havelock; trips from $95) Float in an
inflatable kayak on scenic Pelorus River, star of the barrel scene
in The Hobbit . Wend your way down rapids, through
crystal-clear pools and past native forest and waterfalls. No
experience necessary; minimum two people.
DON'T MISS
Pelorus Bridge
A pocket of deep, green
forest tucked away among paddocks of bog-standard pasture, 18km
west of Havelock, this scenic reserve contains one of the last
stands of river-flat forest in Marlborough. It survived only
because a town planned in 1865 didn’t get off the ground by 1912,
by which time obliterative logging made this little remnant look
precious. Visitors can explore its many tracks, admire the historic
bridge, take a dip in the limpid Pelorus River (alluring enough to
star in Peter Jackson’s The Hobbit ), and partake in some
home baking at the cafe. The fortunate few can stay overnight in
DOC’s small but perfectly formed Pelorus Bridge Campground ( 03-571 6019; www.doc.govt.nz; unpowered/powered sites
per person $12/6), with its snazzy facilities building. Come
sundown keep an eye out for long-tailed bats – the reserve is home
to one of the last remaining populations in Marlborough.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s plenty of accommodation along Kenepuru Rd, most of which is readily accessible off the Queen Charlotte Track. Other options in this area include some picturesque DOC campgrounds (most full to bursting in January), a few remote lodges and the very handy Smiths Farm (Click here) holiday park at Linkwater, the crossroads for Queen Charlotte and Kenepuru, where you’ll find a petrol station with snacks. Havelock has a couple of decent offerings.
OFFLINE MAP(
03-573 4341; www.hopewell.co.nz; 7204 Kenepuru Rd,
Double Bay; dm from $40, d with/without bathroom from $135/100,
4-person cottage $240;
) Beloved of travellers from
near and far, remote Hopewell sits waterside surrounded by native
bush. Savour the long, winding drive to get there, or take a water
taxi from Te Mahia. Stay at least a couple of days, so you can
chill out or enjoy the roll-call of activities: mountain biking,
kayaking, sailing, fishing, eating gourmet pizza, soaking in the
outdoor spa, and more.
(
03-574 2212; www.bluemoonhavelock.co.nz; 48 Main Rd,
Havelock; dm $28, r with/without bathroom $96/76; ) This pleasant and
relaxed lodge has homely rooms in the main house (one with en
suite), as well as cabins and a bunkhouse in the yard. Notable
features include a sunny barbecue deck, inflatable kayak trips on
the Pelorus River, and tramping track transport.
Havelock Garden Motel MOTEL $$
(
03-574 2387; www.gardenmotels.com; 71 Main Rd,
Havelock; d $115-150; ) Set in a large, graceful garden complete
with dear old trees and a duck-filled creek, these 1960s units have
been tastefully revamped to offer homely comforts. Local activities
are happily booked for you.
Getting There & Away
InterCity (
03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) Buses run
daily from Picton to Havelock via Blenheim (one hour), and from
Havelock to Nelson (1¼ hours). Atomic Shuttles ( 0508 108 359, 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) plies the
same run. Cheap transport along the Queen Charlotte Drive between
Picton and Havelock is offered by Coleman Post (Click
here). Buses depart mid-way down the high street, outside the
restaurant with the mussels on the roof.
Blenheim
Pop 27,150
Blenheim is an agricultural town 29km south of Picton on the Wairau Plain between the Wither Hills and the Richmond Ranges. The town demonstrates little power as a visitor magnet; it is the attractions beyond the back fence that pull in the punters.
Sights & Activities
Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.omaka.org.nz; 79 Aerodrome Rd;
adult/child/family $25/10/62; 10am-5pm) This captivating museum houses a
splendid collection of original and replica Great War aircraft
brought to life in a series of dioramas that depict dramatic
wartime scenes, such as the death of the Red Baron. Memorabilia and
photographic displays deepen the experience. The guided tour is an
extra $5 extremely well spent. There’s a cafe and shop on site, and
next door is
Omaka Classic Cars
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP (www.omakaclassiccars.co.nz; adult/child
$10/free; 10am-4pm) , which houses more than 100
vehicles from the ’50s to the ’80s.
(www.marlboroughmuseum.org.nz; 26 Arthur
Baker Pl, off New Renwick Rd; adult/child $10/5;
10am-4pm) Besides a replica
township, vintage mechanicals and well-presented historical
displays, there’s the Wine Exhibition , for those looking
to cap off their vineyard experiences.
Wither Hills Farm Park WALKING
In a town as flat as a pancake, this hilly 1100-hectare park provides welcome relief, offering a range of walks and mountain-bike trails with grand views across the Wairau Valley and out to Cloudy Bay. Pick up a map from the i-SITE or check the information panels at the many entrances including Redwood St and Taylor Pass Rd.
High Country Horse Treks HORSE RIDING
(
03-577 9424; www.high-horse.co.nz; 961 Taylor Pass
Rd; 1-3hr treks $50-120) These animal-mad folks run horse
treks for all abilities from their base 11km southwest of town
(call for directions).
Festivals & Events
Marlborough Wine Festival FOOD & WINE
(www.wine-marlborough-festival.co.nz; tickets $55) Held in mid-February at Brancott Vineyard, this is an extravaganza of local wine, fine food and entertainment. Book accommodation well in advance.
Sleeping
Blenheim Town
Blenheim’s budget beds fill with long-stay guests doing seasonal work; hostels will help find work and offer weekly rates. Midrange motels can be found on Middle Renwick Rd west of the town centre, and SH1 towards Christchurch.
Grapevine Backpackers HOSTEL $
(
03-578 6062; www.thegrapevine.co.nz; 29 Park Tce;
tent sites $18, dm $25, d $64-68, tr $81; ) Located inside an
old maternity home 10 minutes’ walk from the town centre, Grapevine
has respectable rooms set aside for travellers. The kitchen is
tight, but offset by free canoes and a peaceful barbecue deck by
the Opawa River. Bike hire is $25 per day.
Koanui Lodge & Backpackers HOSTEL $
(
03-578 7487; www.koanui.co.nz; 33 Main St; dm $26-30,
d with/without bathroom $85/56;
) This well-worn hostel on the
main road caters to both workers and casual visitors. Both the old
villa and newer lodge wing are clean and tidy, but otherwise
unremarkable.
Blenheim Top 10 Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
(
03-578 3667, 0800 268 666;
www.blenheimtop10.co.nz; 78 Grove Rd;
sites from $35, cabins $72-92, units & motels $100-145;
) Ten minutes’ walk to town,
this holiday park spreads out under and alongside the main road
bridge over the Opawa River. Ask for the quietest spot available.
Cabins and motel units are plain-Jane, set in a sea of asphalt.
Fun-time diversions include a spa, pool, playground and bike hire
($20 per half-day).
(
03-579 5098, 0800 587 856;
www.171onhighmotel.co.nz; 171 High St; d
$145-185; ) A welcoming option close to town, these
tasteful, splash-o-colour studios and apartments are bright and
breezy in the daytime, warm and shimmery in the evening. Expect a
wide complement of facilities and ‘extra mile’ service.
Marlborough Wine Region
Sleeping
Wine Region
OFFLINE
MAP
(
03-572 8228; www.watsonswaylodge.com; 56 High St,
Renwick; dm $30, d $70-90; closed Aug-Sep;
) This traveller-focused,
purpose-built hostel has spick-and-span rooms, mainly twins and
doubles, some with en suite. There are spacious leafy gardens
dotted with fruit trees and hammocks, an outdoor claw-foot bath,
bikes for hire (guest/public rate $18/28 per day) and local
information aplenty.
(
03-572 8458; www.oldemillhouse.co.nz; 9 Wilson St,
Renwick; d $150; ) On an elevated section in otherwise flat
Renwick, this charming old house is a treat. Dyed-in-the-wool local
hosts run a welcoming B&B, with stately decor, and homegrown
fruit and homemade goodies for breakfast. Free bikes, outdoor spa
and gardens make this a tip-top choice in the heart of the wine
country.
(
03-577 8328; www.stleonards.co.nz; 18 St Leonards Rd;
d $120-350, extra adult $35; ) Tucked into the grounds of an 1886
homestead, these four rustic cottages offer privacy and a reason to
stay put. Each is unique in its layout and perspective on the
gardens and vines. Our pick is the Stables, with its lemon-grove
view. Anyone for tennis?
(
03-572 5094, 0800 684 190;
www.mvh.co.nz; 190 Rapaura Rd; d
$260-295; ) Sixteen architecturally designed suites
make the most of valley views and boast wet-room bathrooms and
abstract art. The stylish reception building has a bar and
restaurant opening out on to a cherry orchard and organic vegie
garden.
MARLBOROUGH WINERIES
Marlborough is NZ’s vinous colossus, producing around three quarters of the country’s wine. At last count, there were 22,600 hectares of vines planted – that’s approximately 26,500 rugby pitches! Sunny days and cool nights create the perfect conditions for cool-climate grapes: world-famous sauvignon blanc, top-notch pinot noir, and notable chardonnay, riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot gris and bubbly. Drifting between tasting rooms and dining among the vines is a quintessential South Island experience.
The majority of Marlborough’s 148 wineries lie within the Wairau Valley around Blenheim and Renwick, with others blanketing the cooler Awatere Valley or creeping up the southern-side valleys of the Wairau.
A Taste of the Tastings
Around 35 wineries are open to the public. Our picks of the bunch provide a range of high-quality cellar door experiences, with most being open from around 10.30am till 4.30pm (some scale back operations in winter). Wineries may charge a small fee for tasting, normally refunded if you purchase a bottle. Pick up a copy of the Marlborough Wine Trail map from Blenheim i-SITE (Click here), also available online at www.wine-marlborough.co.nz. If your time is limited, pop into Wino’s (www.winos.co.nz; 49 Grove Rd) in Blenheim, a sterling one-stop shop for some of Marlborough’s finer and less common drops.
Auntsfield Estate (www.auntsfield.co.nz; 270 Paynters Rd) Quality hand-crafted wines from this historic and picturesque vineyard at the foot of the hills. Tours by arrangement ($15).
Bladen Estate OFFLINE MAP (www.bladen.co.nz; 83 Conders Bend Rd) Bijou family winery that’s big on charm.
Brancott Estate (www.brancottestate.com; 180 Brancott Rd) Ubermodern cellar door and restaurant complex atop a hillock that overlooks one of the original sauvignon blanc vineyards.
Clos Henri (www.clos-henri.com; 639 SH63) French winemaking meets Marlborough terroir with très bien results. A beautifully restored local country church houses the cellar door.
Cloudy Bay
OFFLINE MAP
(www.cloudybay.co.nz; Jacksons Rd)
Globally coveted sauvignon
blanc, bubbly and pinot noir, and Jack’s Raw Bar Summer Sundays for
shucked oysters and clams. Decadent.
Forrest OFFLINE MAP (www.forrest.co.nz; 19 Blicks Rd) Doctor-owners produce and prescribe a range of fine vinous medicines, including some mood-altering riesling.
Framingham
OFFLINE MAP
(www.framingham.co.nz; 19 Conders Bend
Rd)
Consistent, quality wines including exceptional rieslings and
stellar stickies.
Gibson Bridge OFFLINE MAP (www.gibsonbridge.co.nz; cnr Gee St & SH6) Peachy pinot gris, and a grandiose cellar door in a minuscule space.
Huia
OFFLINE MAP
(www.huia.net.nz; 22 Boyces Rd)
Sustainable, small-scale
winegrowing and the cutest yellow tasting room in town. Delectable
dry-style gewürztraminer.
Saint
Clair (www.saintclair.co.nz; 13 Selmes
Rd; 9am-5pm) Prepare to be blown away by the
Pioneer Block and Reserve range sauvignon blanc and pinot noir.
Cafe on site.
Spy Valley Wines
OFFLINE MAP
(www.spyvalleywine.co.nz; 37 Lake Timara
Rd, Waihopai Valley) Stylish, edgy architecture at
this espionage-themed winery, with great wines across the board.
Memorable merchandise.
Te Whare Ra
OFFLINE MAP
(www.twrwines.co.nz; 56 Anglesea St,
Renwick)
Compact, hands-on winery creating gorgeous sauvignon blanc,
riesling, gewürztraminer and pinot gris.
Wairau River
OFFLINE MAP
(www.wairauriverwines.com; 11 Rapaura
Rd)
Carbon-neutral family estate with some of Marlborough’s oldest
vines. Relaxing gardens and a fancy new cellar door.
Wither Hills
OFFLINE MAP
(www.witherhills.co.nz; 211 New Renwick
Rd) One of
the region’s flagship wineries and an architectural gem. Premium
wines and enthralling winemaker-for-a-day tours ($45).
Yealands Estate (
03-575 7618; www.yealandsestate.co.nz; cnr Seaview
& Reserve Rds, Seddon) Zero-carbon winemaking on a
grand scale at this space-age winery near Seddon; tours by
arrangement.
Best Wining & Dining
With wine there must be food, and here are our recommendations for dining among the vines. Opening hours are for summer, when bookings are recommended.
Wairau River
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-572 9800; www.wairauriverwines.com; cnr Rapaura Rd
& SH6; mains $20-27; noon-3pm) Modishly modified mudbrick
bistro with wide verandah and beautiful gardens with plenty of
shade. Order the mussel chowder or the double-baked blue-cheese
soufflé. Relaxing and thoroughly enjoyable.
Rock Ferry
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-579 6431; www.rockferry.co.nz; 80 Hammerichs Rd;
mains $22-26; 11.30am-3pm) Pleasant environment inside
and out, with a slightly groovy edge. The compact summery menu –
think tea-smoked salmon or organic open steak sandwich – is
accompanied by wines from Marlborough and Otago.
Wither Hills
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-520 8284; www.witherhills.co.nz; 211 New Renwick
Rd; mains $23-31, platters $36-56; 11am-4pm) Simple, well-executed food in a
stylish space. Pull up a beanbag on the Hockney-esque lawns and
enjoy hot-smoked salmon, rib of beef or a platter, before climbing
the ziggurat for impressive views across the Wairau.
Herzog Winery
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-572 8770; www.herzog.co.nz; 81 Jefferies Rd; mains
$44-49, 5-course degustation menu with/without wine
$197/125; restaurant from 7pm Wed-Sun, bistro 11am-10pm,
reduced hours May-Oct) Refined dining in Herzog’s opulent
dining room. Beautifully prepared food and a remarkable wine list.
Excellent-value bistro meals (mains $28 to $30) also available.
La Veranda
OFFLINE MAP
( 03-572 9177; www.laveranda.co.nz; 56 Vintage Lane;
platters $19-23; 11am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) Keenly priced platters
of quality charcuterie, fromages and French desserts – the sort of
lunch you should be eating at a vineyard. Eat outside or in Domaine
George Michel’s elegant restaurant.
Wine Tours
Wine tours are generally conducted in a minibus, last between four and seven hours, take in four to seven wineries and range in price from $65 to $95 (with a few grand tours up to around $200 for the day, including a winery lunch). The following are the grand crus :
Highlight Wine Tours ( 03-577-9046, 0800 494 638; www.highlightwinetours.co.nz)
Visit a chocolate factory, too. Custom tours available.
Bubbly Grape (
0800 228 2253, 027 672
2195; www.bubblygrape.co.nz) Three
different tours including a gourmet lunch option.
Sounds Connection ( 0800 742 866, 03-573 8843; www.soundsconnection.co.nz) This
operator partners up with Herzog for a wine-and-food-matched
lunch.
Bike2Wine (
0800 653 262, 03-572 8458;
www.bike2wine.co.nz; 9 Wilson St,
Renwick; standard/tandem per day $30/60, delivery or pick-up per
bike $5-10) Your other option is to get around the grapes on
two wheels. This operator offers self-guided, fully geared and
supported tours.
(
03-572 9730; www.stonehavenhomestay.co.nz; 414
Rapaura Rd; d incl breakfast $275-295; ) A stellar stone-and-timber B&B
nestled among the picturesque vines, with two en suite guest rooms.
Beds are piled high with pillows, breakfast is served in the summer
house, and dinner is available by prior arrangement with rare wines
from the cellar.
Eating & Drinking
Hospitality can be pretty hit and miss in Blenny, with some of the best food found at the wineries.
(10 Maxwell Rd;
meals $7-18; 7am-4pm Mon-Wed, to 10pm Thu-Sat) This hip
joint, with its B-movie decor, booths and up-cycled furniture, is
where Blenheim’s cool cats come to purr over great coffee, all-day
eggy brekkies and a counter-full of pastries and salads. Excellent
smoothie hangover cures.
(www.bvgourmet.co.nz; 2a Park Tce; snacks
$4-8; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun)
Micro-sized cafe serving a compact range of pastries, salads,
sweets and notable coffee. Picnickers will delight at the
gluttonous selection of cheeses, meats and treats from NZ artisan
producers and overseas.
(www.dodsonstreet.co.nz; 1 Dodson St) Pub and garden with a beer-hall ambience and suitably Teutonic menu (mains $17 to $27) featuring pork knuckle, wurst and schnitzel. Stars of the show are the 24 taps pouring quality craft beer including next-door neighbour Renaissance, the 2013 Brewer’s Guild champion.
Information
Blenheim i-SITE
( 03-577 8080, 0800 777 181; www.lovemarlborough.com; Railway
Station; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 9am-4pm
Sun) Information on Marlborough and beyond. Wine-trail maps
and bookings for everything under the sun.
Post Office (cnr Scott & Main Sts)
Wairau Hospital
( 03-520 9999; www.nmdhb.govt.nz; Hospital
Rd)
Getting There & Around
Air
Marlborough Airport (www.marlboroughairport.co.nz) is
6km west of town on Middle Renwick Rd. Air New Zealand ( 0800 747 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) has
direct flights to/from Wellington, Auckland and Christchurch.
Soundsair (www.soundsair.co.nz) connects Blenheim
with Wellington and Paraparaumu.
Bicycle
Avantiplus (
03-578 0433; www.bikemarlborough.co.nz; 61 Queen St;
hire per half-/full day from $25/40) Rents bikes; longer
hire and delivery by arrangement.
Bus
InterCity (
03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) buses run
daily from the Blenheim i-SITE to Picton (30 minutes) and Nelson
(1¾ hours). Buses also head down south to Christchurch (two daily)
via Kaikoura.
Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) tickets bargain
seats on some of the same services, and on its own buses on major
routes.
Shuttles (and tours) around Blenheim and
the wider Marlborough region are offered by Blenheim Shuttles ( 03-577 5277, 0800 577 527; www.blenheimshuttles.co.nz) .
Taxi
Four-wheeled rescue is offered by Marlborough Taxis ( 03-577 5511) .
Train
KiwiRail Scenic ( 04-495 0775, 0800 872 467; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz) Runs
the daily Coastal Pacific service, stopping at Blenheim en
route to Picton (from $29; runs October to May) heading north, and
Christchurch (from $79) via Kaikoura (from $49) heading south.
Kaikoura
Pop 3550
Take SH1 132km southeast from Blenheim (or 183km north from Christchurch) and you’ll encounter Kaikoura, a pretty peninsula town backed by the snowcapped Seaward Kaikoura Range. Few places in the world are home to such a variety of easily spottable wildlife: whales, dolphins, NZ fur seals, penguins, shearwaters, petrels and wandering albatross all live in the area or pass by.
Marine animals are abundant due to ocean-current and continental-shelf conditions: the seabed gradually slopes away from the land before plunging to more than 800m where the southerly current hits the continental shelf. This creates an upwelling of nutrients from the ocean floor into the feeding zone.
Kaikoura
Sights
Activities, Courses &
Tours
Sleeping
ShoppingHistory
In Maori legend, Kaikoura Peninsula (Taumanu o Te Waka a Maui) was the seat where the demigod Maui placed his feet when he fished the North Island up from the depths. The area was heavily settled by Maori, with excavations showing that the area was a moa-hunter settlement about 800 to 1000 years ago. The name Kaikoura comes from ‘Kai’ (food) and ‘koura’ (crayfish).
James Cook sailed past the peninsula in 1770, but didn’t land. His journal states that 57 Maori in four double-hulled canoes came towards the Endeavour, but ‘would not be prevail’d upon to put along side’.
In 1828 Kaikoura’s beachfront was the scene of a tremendous battle. A northern Ngati Toa war party, led by chief Te Rauparaha, bore down on Kaikoura, killing or capturing several hundred of the local Ngai Tahu tribe.
Europeans established a whaling station here in 1842, and the town remained a whaling centre until 1922 after which arming and fishing sustained the community. It was in the 1980s that wildlife tours began to transform the town into the tourist mecca it is today.
Sights
Point Kean Seal Colony WILDLIFE RESERVE
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAPAt the end of the peninsula seals laze around in the grass and on the rocks, lapping up all the attention. Give them a wide berth (10m), and never get between them and the sea – they will attack if they feel cornered and can move surprisingly fast.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.fyffehouse.co.nz; 62 Avoca St;
adult/child $10/free; 10am-5.30pm daily Nov-Apr, to 4pm Thu-Mon
May-Oct) Kaikoura’s oldest surviving building, Fyffe House’s
whale-bone foundations were laid in 1844. Proudly positioned and
fronted with a colourful garden, the little two-storey cottage
offers a fascinating insight into the lives of colonial settlers.
Interpretive displays are complemented by historic objects, while
peeling wallpaper and the odd cobweb lend authenticity. Cute
maritime-themed shop.
(www.kaikoura.govt.nz; West End;
adult/child $5/1; 10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 2-4pm Sat & Sun)
Housed in the new council building along with the library, this
provincial museum displays historical photographs, Maori and
colonial artefacts, a huge sperm-whale jaw and the fossilised
remains of a plesiosaur.
Point Sheep Shearing Show FARM
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.pointsheepshearing.co.nz; Fyffe
Quay; adult/child $10/5; shows 1.30pm & 4pm) The 30-minute Point
Sheep Shearing Show at the Point B&B is fun and educational.
You can feed a ram, and lambs between September and February.
Classic NZ!
Activities
There’s a safe swimming
beach in front of the Esplanade, alongside
which is a pool (adult/child $3/2; 10am-5pm Nov-Mar) if you have a salt
aversion.
Decent surfing can be
found in the area, too, particularly at Mangamaunu Beach (15km north of town), where there’s a
500m point break, which is fun in good conditions. Get the
low-down, organise transport, learn to surf or hire gear from
Board Silly Surf Adventures
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP ( 0274 188 900, 0800 787 352; 134 Southbay Pde; 3hr
lesson $75, board & suit from $45) based at South Bay.
Gear hire and advice is also available from R&R Sport
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.rrsport.co.nz; 14 West End)
and Surf Kaikoura
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.surfkaikoura.co.nz; 4 Beach
Rd) .
Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway WALKING
A foray along this walkway is a must-do. Starting from the town, the three- to four-hour loop heads out to Point Kean, along the cliffs to South Bay, then back to town over the isthmus (or in reverse, of course). En route you’ll see fur seals and red-billed seagull and shearwater colonies. Lookouts and interesting interpretive panels abound. Collect a map at the i-SITE or follow your nose.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 6622, 0800 348 352;
www.divekaikoura.co.nz; Yarmouth St;
half-day $250) With its rocky formations and abundant marine
life, the Kaikoura coast offers rewarding diving and snorkelling.
Dive Kaikoura runs small-group trips and diver training.
Clarence River Rafting RAFTING
(
03-319 6993; www.clarenceriverrafting.co.nz; 3802
SH1, at Clarence Bridge; half-day trip adult/child $120/80)
Raft the bouncy Grade II rapids of the scenic Clarence River on a
half-day trip (two hours on the water), or on longer journeys
including a five-day trip with wilderness camping ($1350). Based on
SH1, 40km north of Kaikoura near Clarence Bridge.
Tours
Wildlife tours are Kaikoura’s speciality, particularly those involving whales (including sperm, pilot, killer, humpback and southern right), dolphins (Hector’s, bottlenose and dusky) and NZ fur seals. There’s also plenty of birdlife, including albatross and blue penguins. During summer, book your tour a few weeks ahead, and allow some leeway for lousy weather.
Whale-Watching
Your choices are boat, plane or helicopter. Aerial options are shorter and pricier, but allow you to see the whole whale, as opposed to just a tail, flipper or spout.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 6767, 0800 655 121;
www.whalewatch.co.nz; Railway Station;
3hr tour adult/child $145/60) With knowledgeable guides and
fascinating ‘world of whales’ on-board animation, Kaikoura’s
biggest operator heads out on boat trips (with admirable frequency)
to introduce you to some of the big fellas. It’ll refund 80% of
your fare if no whales are sighted (success rate: 98%). If this
trip is a must for you, allow a few days flexibility in case the
weather turns to custard.
Kaikoura Helicopters SCENIC FLIGHTS
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 6609; www.worldofwhales.co.nz; Railway
Station; 15-60min flight from $100-490) Reliable
whale-spotting flights (standard 30-minute tour $220 each for three
or more people), plus jaunts around the peninsula, Mt Fyffe and
peaks beyond.
(
0800 226 629, 03-319 6580;
www.whales.co.nz; 30min flight
adult/child $180/75) Light-plane flights departing from
Kaikoura Airport, 7km south of town. Spotting success rate:
95%.
Dolphin- & Seal-Spotting
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 6182, 0800 732 579;
www.sealswimkaikoura.co.nz; 58 West End;
tours $70-110, viewing adult/child $55/35;
Oct-May) Take a (warmly
wet-suited) swim with Kaikoura’s healthy population of playful
seals – including very cute pups – on two-hour guided snorkelling
tours run by the Chambers family. Shore or boat options
available.
(
0800 733 365, 03-319 6777;
www.encounterkaikoura.co.nz; 96
Esplanade; swim adult/child $175/155, observation $90/45;
tours 8.30am & 12.30pm
year-round, plus 5.30am Nov-Apr) Here’s your chance to rub
shoulders with pods of dusky dolphins on three-hour tours. Limited
numbers, so book in advance.
(
03-319 7118, 0800 452 456;
www.kaikourakayaks.co.nz; 19 Killarney
St; 3hr tours adult/child $95/70; tours 8.30am, 12.30pm & 4.30pm Nov-Apr, 9am
& 1pm May-Oct) Excellent guided sea-kayak tours to view
fur seals and explore the peninsula’s coastline. Family-friendly,
kayak fishing and other on-demand trips available, plus freedom
kayak and paddle-board hire.
Birdwatching
Albatross Encounter BIRDWATCHING
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 6777, 0800 733 365;
www.encounterkaikoura.co.nz; 96
Esplanade; adult/child $115/55; tours 9am & 1pm year-round, plus 6am
Nov-Apr) Kaikoura is heaven for bird-nerds, who fly at the
opportunity for a close encounter with pelagic species such as
shearwaters, shags, mollymawks, petrels and the inimitable
albatross.
Fishing
Fishing is a common
obsession in Kaikoura, with local boaties angling for any excuse to
go out for a little look-sea. It’s a good opportunity to kai
koura (eat crayfish). Trips start from around $60; the i-SITE (
03-319 5641; www.kaikoura.co.nz; West End;
9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm
Sat & Sun, extended hours Dec-Mar) has a full list of
operators.
(
03-319 3003;
gerard.diedrichs@xtra.co.nz) Fishing, crayfishing, scenic
tours and water-skiing, on the 6m Sophie-Rose .
Kaikoura Fishing Charters FISHING
(
03-319 6888; www.kaikourafishing.co.nz) Dangle
a line from the 12m Takapu, then take your filleted,
bagged catch home to eat.
Kaikoura Fishing Tours FISHING
(
0800 246 6597; www.kaikoura-fishing-tours.co.nz)
Serious about scenery and seafood. Your catch is filleted ready for
dinner.
Tramping & Cycling
For town riding, hire bicycles from R&R Sport (Click here) and Surf Kaikoura (Click here). While you’re there, ask about the trail to the foot of Mt Fyffe.
(
027 473 2659, 027 437
2426; www.walkskaikoura.com; half-/full day
from $75/145) Experienced local guides offer tailored walks
around the area, from mountains to coast with heli options, plus
cycle tours on quiet sealed roads and the newly developed riverside
trail.
(
03-319 2715; www.kaikouratrack.co.nz; $230)
This easy three-day, 37km, self-guided walk across private farmland
combines coastal and alpine views. The price includes three nights’
farm-cottage accommodation and pack transport; BYO sleeping bag and
food. Starts 45km south of Kaikoura.
Kaikoura Wilderness Walks TRAMPING
(
03-319 6966, 0800 945 337;
www.kaikourawilderness.co.nz; 1-/2-night
package $1195/1595) Two- or three-day guided
walks through the privately owned Puhi Peaks Nature Reserve high in
the Seaward Kaikoura Range. Package includes accommodation and
sumptuous meals at the luxurious Shearwater Lodge.
Other Tours
Kaikoura Mountain Safaris DRIVING TOUR
(
03-319 6424, 021 869 643;
www.kaikouramountainsafaris.co.nz;
half-day tour adult/child $100/55, 1-day tour adult/child
$165/100) Journey into the backcountry in a 4WD or Unimog –
three different tours (departing from the i-SITE) take in alpine
vistas, remote farms and the Clarence River valley.
Maori Tours Kaikoura CULTURAL TOUR
(
03-319 5567, 0800 866 267;
www.maoritours.co.nz; 3½hr tour
adult/child $134/74; tours 9am & 1.30pm) Fascinating
half-day, small-group tours laced with Maori hospitality and local
lore. Visit historic sites, hear legends and learn indigenous use
of trees and plants. Advance bookings required.
Sleeping
Summer sees accommodation fill up, so book in advance or save your visit for the off-season when reduced rates are in the offing.
Albatross Backpacker Inn HOSTEL $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 6090, 0800 222 247;
www.albatross-kaikoura.co.nz; 1 Torquay
St; dm $29-32, tw/d $69/74;
) This arty backpackers resides
in three sweet buildings, one a former post office. It’s colourful
and close to the beach but sheltered from the breeze. As well as a
laid-back lounge with musical instruments for jamming, there are
decks and verandahs to chill out on.
(
03-319 5842; www.dolphinlodge.co.nz; 15 Deal St; dm
$28, d with/without bathroom $69/62; ) This small
home-away-from-home has green-thumbed owners who fuss over their
lovely scented garden. Inside is a bit squeezed, but on dry days
most of the action will be out on the fantastic deck, around the
barbecue, or in the spa pool.
Alpine Pacific Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 6275, 0800 692 322;
www.alpine-pacific.co.nz; 69 Beach Rd;
campsites from $46, cabins $78, units $130-195; ) This compact and proudly trimmed park
copes well with its many visitors, and offers excellent facilities,
including a shiny kitchen, resorty pool area and barbecue pavilion.
Rows of cabins and units are slightly more stylish than average,
and mountain views can be had from many angles.
Kaikoura Top 10 Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 5362, 0800 363 638;
www.kaikouratop10.co.nz; 34 Beach Rd;
campsites $42-52, cabins $70-95, units $110-160; ) Hiding from the highway behind a massive
hedge, this busy, well-maintained campground offers family-friendly
facilities (heated pool, hot tub, trampoline) and cabins and units
to the usual Top 10 standard.
(
03-319 5931, 0800 278 299;
www.yha.co.nz; 270 Esplanade; dm $33, d
$89-110, tr $102; ) A 15-minute walk to town, this oceanside
YHA boasts unobstructed views across the bay to the pine-lined
esplanade and mighty peaks beyond. Many rooms enjoy similar views,
as does the big-windowed dining room. Communal areas in this
purpose-built (1962) hostel are tidy and functional, but a little
rough around the edges.
Dylan’s Country Cottages
COTTAGES $$
(
03-319 5473; www.lavenderfarm.co.nz; 268 Postmans Rd;
d $195; closed May-Aug; ) On the grounds of the delightful Kaikoura
Lavender Farm, northwest of town, these two self-contained cottages
make for an aromatic escape from the seaside fray. One has a
private outdoor bath and a shower emerging from a tree; the other
an indoor spa and handkerchief lawn. Homemade scones, preserves and
free-range eggs for breakfast. Sweet, stylish and romantic.
Kaikoura Cottage Motels MOTEL $$
(
03-319 5599, 0800 526 882;
www.kaikouracottagemotels.co.nz; cnr Old Beach & Mill Rds; d
$140-160; ) This enclave of eight modern tourist
flats looks mighty fine, surrounded by attractive native plantings.
Oriented for mountain views, the self-contained units sleep four
between an open-plan studio-style living room and one private
bedroom. Soothing sand-and-sky colour scheme and quality
chattels.
(
03-319 5506; www.baycottages.co.nz; 29 South Bay Pde;
cottages/motels $100/130; ) Here’s a great-value option on South Bay,
a few kilometres south of town: five tourist cottages with
kitchenette and bathroom that sleep up to four, and two slick motel
rooms with stainless-steel benches, a warm feel and clean lines.
The cheery owner may even take you crayfishing in good weather.
(
03-319 6145; www.sailsmotel.co.nz; 134 Esplanade; d
$120-140, q $170; ) There are no sea views (nor sails) at
this motel, so the cherubic owners have to impress with quality.
Their four secluded, tastefully appointed self-contained units are
down a driveway in a garden setting (private outdoor areas
abound).
(
03-319 6973; www.nikaulodge.com; 53 Deal St; d
$190-260; ) A waggly-tailed welcome awaits at this
beautiful B&B high on the hill with grand-scale vistas. Five en
suite rooms are plush and comfy, with additional satisfaction
arriving in the form of cafe-quality breakfasts accompanied by
fresh local coffee. Good humour, home baking, free wi-fi,
complimentary drinks, a hot tub and blooming gardens: you may want
to move in.
Waves on the Esplanade APARTMENTS $$$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
03-319 5890, 0800 319 589;
www.kaikouraapartments.co.nz; 78 Esplanade; apt $240-350;
) Can’t do without
the comforts of home? Here you go: spacious, luxury two-bedroom
apartments with Sky TV, DVD player, two bathrooms, laundry
facilities and full kitchen. Oh, and superb ocean views from the
balcony. Rates are for up to four people.
CRAY CRAZY
Among all of Kaikoura’s
munificent marine life, the one species you just can’t avoid is the
crayfish, whose delicate flesh dominates local menus. Unfortunately
(some say unnecessarily), it’s pricey – at a restaurant, you’ll
(pardon the pun) shell out around $55 for half a cray or over $100
for the whole beast. You can also buy fresh, cooked or uncooked
crays from
Cods & Crayfish
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(81 Beach Rd;
8am-6pm) and iconic Nins
Bin (SH1;
8am-6pm), a surf-side caravan
23km north of town. Upwards of $50 should get you a decent
specimen. Alternatively, go out on a fishing tour, or simply head
to the Kaikoura Seafood BBQ roadside stall near the peninsula seal
colony where cooked crays can be gobbled in the sunshine, by the
sea.
Eating & Drinking
Kaikoura has a few swell cafes and restaurants, and many that plumb the depths.
Kaikoura Seafood BBQ SEAFOOD $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(Fyffe Quay;
$5-9; 10.30am-7pm) Conveniently located on the
way to the Point Kean seal colony, this long-standing roadside
barbecue is a great spot to sample local seafood, including
crayfish and scallops, at an affordable price.
(72 West End;
meals $10-20; 9am-3pm) The best coffee in the town
centre, roasted on site and espressed by dedicated baristas in
Kaikoura’s grooviest cafe. Puttin’ out that rootsy retro-Kiwiana
vibe we love so much, this is a neat place to linger over a couple
of flatties and down a muffin, delicious ham croissant or the full
eggy brunch.
(96 Esplanade;
meals $8-23; 7am-5pm; ) This cafe in the Encounter Kaikoura
complex is more than just somewhere to wait for your trip. The
cabinet houses respectable sandwiches, pastries and cakes, plus
there’s a tasteful range of daily specials such as pork schnitzel
and fennel slaw. A sunny patio provides sea views.
New World Supermarket SUPERMARKET $
(124-128 Beach
Rd; 7.30am-9pm) Ten minutes’ walk from the town
centre.
(
03-319 5037; www.thepierhotel.co.nz; 1 Avoca St;
lunch $15-23, dinner $27-38; 11am-late) Situated in the town’s primo
seaside spot, with panoramic views, the historic Pier Hotel is a
friendly and inviting place for a drink or a meal, whether outside
or inside the character-filled public bar or dining rooms. Upstairs
lodgings are worn and creaky, but good value (double room,
including breakfast, from $90).
(
03-319 6666; www.greendolphinkaikoura.com; 12 Avoca
St; mains $25-39; 5-11pm) Kaikoura’s consistent top-ender
continues to dish up high-quality produce including seafood, beef,
lamb and venison, as well as seasonal flavours such as fresh tomato
soup. There are lovely homemade pasta dishes, too. The hefty drinks
list demands attention, featuring exciting aperitifs, craft beer,
interesting wines and more. Booking ahead is advisable, especially
if you want to secure a table by the window and watch the daylight
fade.
Information
Kaikoura i-SITE
( 03-319 5641; www.kaikoura.co.nz; West End;
9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm
Sat & Sun, extended hours Dec-Mar) Helpful staff make
tour, accommodation and transport bookings, and help with
DOC-related matters.
Paperplus/Post
Office (
03-319 6808; 41 West End)
Postal agent.
Getting There & Away
Bus
Atomic Shuttles ( 0508 108 359, 03-349 0697; www.atomictravel.co.nz) Also
services Kaikoura on its Christchurch to Picton run, which links
with destinations as far afield as Nelson, Queenstown and
Invercargill.
InterCity (
03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) Buses run
between Kaikoura and Nelson (3½ hours), Picton (2¼ hours) and
Christchurch (2¾ hours). The bus stop is at the car park next to
the i-SITE (tickets and info inside).
Naked Bus (
0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) Tickets bargain
seats on its own buses on major routes, and on other services
dependent on capacity.
Train
KiwiRail Scenic ( 0800 872 467; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz) Runs
the daily Coastal Pacific service, stopping at Kaikoura en
route to Picton (from $59, 2¼ hours; runs October to May), and
Christchurch (from $49, three hours). The northbound train departs
Kaikoura at 9.54am; the southbound at 3.28pm.
Getting Around
Kaikoura Shuttles ( 03-319 6166; www.kaikourashuttles.co.nz)
will run you around the local sights as well as to and from the
airport.
Nelson Region
The Nelson region is centred upon Tasman Bay but stretches north to Golden Bay and Farewell Spit, and south to Nelson Lakes. It’s not hard to see why it’s such a popular travel destination for both international and domestic traveller alike: not only does it boast three national parks (Kahurangi, Nelson Lakes and Abel Tasman), but it can also satisfy nearly every other whim, from food, wine and beer, art, craft and festivals, to that most precious of pastimes for which the region is well known: lazing about in the sunshine.
Nelson
Pop 46,440
Dishing up a winning combination of great weather and beautiful surroundings, Nelson is hailed as one of NZ’s most ‘liveable’ cities. In summer it fills up with visitors, who lap up its diverse offerings.
