Rangitoto &
Motutapu Islands

Pop 75

Sloping elegantly from the waters of the gulf, 259m Rangitoto (www.rangitoto.org) , the largest and youngest of Auckland’s volcanic cones, provides a picturesque backdrop to all of the city’s activities. As recently as 600 years ago it erupted from the sea and was probably active for several years before settling down. Maori living on Motutapu (Sacred Island; www.motutapu.org.nz) , to which Rangitoto is now joined by a causeway, certainly witnessed the eruptions, as footprints have been found embedded in ash, and oral history details several generations living here before the eruption.

Rangitoto makes for a great day trip. Its harsh scoria slopes hold a surprising amount of flora (including the world’s largest pohutukawa forest) and there are excellent walks, but you’ll need sturdy shoes and plenty of water. Although it looks steep, up close it’s shaped more like an egg sizzling in a pan. The walk to the summit only takes an hour and is rewarded with sublime views. At the top a loop walk goes around the crater’s rim. A walk to lava caves branches off the summit walk and takes 30 minutes return. There’s an information board with walk maps at the wharf.

Motutapu, in contrast to Rangitoto, is mainly covered in grassland, which is grazed by sheep and cattle. Archaeologically, this is a very significant island, with the traces of centuries of continuous human habitation etched into its landscape.

At Home Bay on Motutapu there’s a DOC campsite (www.doc.govt.nz; adult/child $6/3) with only basic facilities (running water and a flush toilet). Bring cooking equipment, as open fires are forbidden, and book online. It’s a three-hour walk from Rangitoto wharf ; Fullers run a weekend-only service to Home Bay in the summer months.

In 2011 both islands were officially declared predator-free after an extensive eradication programme. Endangered birds such as takahe and tieke (saddleback) have been released and others such as kakariki and bellbirds have returned of their own volition.

Getting There & Around

Fullers ( 09-367 9111; www.fullers.co.nz; Ferry Building, 99 Quay St; adult/child return Auckland or Devonport $29/14.50) Has ferry services to Rangitoto from Auckland’s Ferry Building (20 minutes, three daily on weekdays, four on weekends) and Devonport (two daily). It also offers the Volcanic Explorer (adult/child incl ferry $60/30; departs 9.15am & 12.15pm) , a guided tour around the island in a canopied ‘road train’.

Motuihe Island

Between Rangitoto and Waiheke Islands, 176-hectare Motuihe has a lovely white-sand beach and a fascinating history. There are three pa sites, last occupied by the Ngati Paoa tribe. The island was sold in 1840 (for a heifer, blankets, frocks, garden tools, pots and pans) and from 1872 to 1941 served as a quarantine station. During WWI the dashing swashbuckler Count von Luckner launched a daring escape from the island (where he was interned with other German and Austrian nationals), making it 1000km to the Kermadec Islands before being ­recaptured.

Motuihe has been rendered pest-free and is now subject to a vigorous reforestation project by enthusiastic volunteers. As a result, endangered birds have returned, including the loquacious tieke.

Apart from the trust’s headquarters, the only accommodation on the island is a basic DOC campsite (www.doc.govt.nz; adult/child $6/3) ; only toilets and water are provided, and booking ahead online is essential. There are no permanent residents or shops, except for a lunchtime kiosk during January.

Getting There & Away

360 Discovery ( 0800 360 3472; www.360discovery.co.nz; adult/child return $28/17.50) A ferry taking one hour departs from Auckland daily at 8.45am, returning at 3.30pm.

Waiheke Island

Pop 8300

Waiheke is 93 sq km of island bliss just a 35-minute ferry ride from the CBD. Once they could hardly give land away here; nowadays multimillionaires rub shoulders with the old-time hippies and bohemian artists who gave the island its green repute. Auckland office workers fantasise about swapping the daily motorway crawl for a watery commute and a warm, dry microclimate.

On Waiheke’s city side, emerald waters lap at rocky bays, while its ocean flank has some of the region’s best sandy beaches. While beaches are the big drawcard, wine is a close second. There are 19 boutique wineries to visit, many with swanky restaurants and breathtaking city views. The island also boasts galleries and craft stores.

Waiheke has been inhabited since at least the 14th century, most recently by Ngati Paoa, and there are more than 40 pa sites scattered around the island. Europeans arrived with the missionary Samuel Marsden in the early 1800s and the island was soon stripped of its kauri forest.

There are petrol stations in Oneroa, Ostend and Onetangi, ATMs in Oneroa and Ostend, and a supermarket in Ostend.

Sights & Activities

Beaches

Waiheke’s two best beaches are Onetangi, a long stretch of white sand at the centre of the island, and Palm Beach, a pretty little horseshoe bay between Oneroa and Onetangi. Both have nudist sections; head west just past some rocks in both cases. Oneroa and neighbouring Little Oneroa are also excellent, but you’ll be sharing the waters with moored yachts in summer. Reached by an unsealed road through farmland, Man O’ War Bay is a compact beach that’s excellent for swimming.

Wineries

Goldie Vineyard WINERY

OFFLINE MAP

(www.goldiewines.co.nz; 18 Causeway Rd; tastings $10, refundable with purchase; tasting room noon-4pm daily, cafe noon-4pm Sat & Sun & daily late Dec–mid-Jan) Founded as Goldwater Estate in 1978, this is Waiheke’s pioneering vineyard. The tasting room sells well-stocked baskets for a picnic amongst the vines ($60 for two people).

Passage Rock WINERY

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 7257; www.passagerockwines.co.nz; 438 Orapiu Rd; noon-4pm Sat & Sun Aug-Dec, daily Jan, Wed-Sun Feb-Apr) Excellent pizza among the vines.

Man O’ War Vineyards WINERY

OFFLINE MAP

(www.manowarvineyards.co.nz; Man O’ War Bay; 11am-6pm summer, to 4.30pm winter) Settle in with a tapas platter and a glass of Man O’ War’s Valhalla chardonnay at our favourite Waiheke winery. If the weather is good, go for a swim in beautiful Man O’ War Bay.

Stonyridge WINERY

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 8822; www.stonyridge.com; 80 Onetangi Rd; tastings per wine $3-15; 11.30am-5pm) Famous organic reds, an atmospheric cafe, tours ($10, 35 minutes, 11.30am Saturday and Sunday) and the occasional dance party.

Wild On Waiheke WINERY, BREWERY

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 3434; www.wildonwaiheke.co.nz; 82 Onetangi Rd; tastings per beer or wine $2; 11am-4pm Thu-Sun, daily in summer) This winery and microbrewery offers tastings, archery, laser clay shooting, pétanque , a sandpit and a ­giant chess board.

Art & Culture

The Waiheke Art Map brochure, free from the i-SITE, lists galleries and craft stores.

Artworks Complex ARTS CENTRE

OFFLINE MAP

(2 Korora Rd; ) The Artworks complex houses a community theatre OFFLINE MAP ( 09-372 2941; www.artworkstheatre.org.nz) , an art-house cinema OFFLINE MAP ( 09-372 4240; www.waihekecinema.net; adult/child $14/7) , an attention-grabbing art gallery OFFLINE MAP ( 09-372 9907; www.waihekeartgallery.org.nz; 10am-4pm) and Whittaker’s Musical Museum OFFLINE MAP ( 09-372 5573; www.musical-museum.org; 1-4pm, live shows 1.30pm Sat) , a collection of antique concert instruments. This is also the place for free internet access, either on a terminal at the library ( 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat; ) or on their wi-fi network.

Stony Batter Historic Reserve HISTORIC SITE

OFFLINE MAP

(www.fortstonybatter.org; Stony Batter Rd; adult/child $8/5; 9am-5pm) At the eastern end of the island, Stony Batter has WWII tunnels and gun emplacements that were built in 1941 to defend Auckland’s harbour. The 20-minute walk from the carpark leads through private farmland and derives its name from the boulder-­strewn fields. Bring a torch and cash.

Waiheke Museum
& Historic Village MUSEUM

OFFLINE MAP

(www.waihekemuseum.org.nz; 165 Onetangi Rd; admission by donation; noon-4pm Wed, Sat & Sun) Displays Islander artefacts in six restored buildings.

Dead Dog Bay GARDENS

OFFLINE MAP

(www.deaddogbay.co.nz; Margaret Reeve Lane; adult/child $10/free; 10am-5pm) Wander steep pathways through rainforest, wetlands and gardens scattered with sculpture.

Connells Bay GARDENS

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 8957; www.connellsbay.co.nz; Cowes Bay Rd; adult/child $30/15; by appointment, late Oct-late Mar) A pricey but excellent private sculpture park featuring a stellar roster of NZ artists. Admission is by way of a two-hour guided tour; book ahead.

Walks

Ask at the i-SITE about the island’s beautiful coastal walks (ranging from one to three hours) and the 3km Cross Island Walkway (from Onetangi to Rocky Bay). Other tracks traverse Whakanewha Regional Park, a haven for rare coastal birds and geckos, and the Royal Forest & Bird Protection Society’s three reserves: Onetangi (Waiheke Rd), Te Haahi-Goodwin (Orapiu Rd) and Atawhai Whenua (Ocean View Rd).

Other Activities

Hike Bike Ako WALKING, CYCLING

( 021 465 373; www.hikebikeako.co.nz; hiking adult/child $99/79, biking & combination $139) Explore the island on a guided wallking (three hours) or biking (five hours) tour, or a combination (five hours) of both. Tours all include pick up from the ferry, lunch at a cafe or vineyard, and Maori legends, history and culture. There’s a minimum age of seven for walking and 16 for biking.

Ross Adventures KAYAKING

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 5550; www.kayakwaiheke.co.nz; Matiatia Beach; half-/full-day trips $85/145, per hr hire from $25) It’s the fervently held opinion of Ross that Waiheke offers kayaking every bit as good as the legendary Abel Tasman National Park. He should know – he’s been offering guided kayak trips for over 20 years. Experienced sea kayakers can comfortably circumnavigate the island in four days, exploring hidden coves and sand spits inaccessible by land.

EcoZip Adventures ZIPLINE

OFFLINE MAP

( 0800 246 947; www.ecozipadventures.co.nz; Trig Hill Rd; adult/child $99/69) With vineyard, native bush and ocean views, three separate 200m stretches make for an exciting ride, and there’s a gentle 1.5km walk back up through the bush after the thrills. Costs include free transfers from Matiatia Wharf or Oneroa if you don’t have your own transport.

Tours

Ananda Tours FOOD & WINE

( 09-372 7530; www.ananda.co.nz) Gourmet wine and food tours ($120), and a wine connoisseurs’ tour ($230). Small-group, informal tours can be customised, including visits to artists’ studios.

Fullers FOOD & WINE

OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP

( 09-367 9111; www.fullers.co.nz) Runs a ‘Wine on Waiheke’ tour (adult $119, 4½ hours, departs Auckland 1pm) visiting three of the island’s top wineries, and includes a platter of nibbles; ‘Taste of Waiheke” (adult $129, 5½ hours, departs Auckland 11am) includes three wineries plus an olive grove and light lunch. There’s also a 1½-hour Explorer Tour (adult/child $52/26, departs Auckland 10am, 11am and noon). All prices include the ferry and an all-day local bus pass.

Sunshine Tours FOOD & WINE

( 09-372 6127; www.waihekeislandadventures.com) Scenic tours ($45) and vineyard tours ($45).

Waiheke Executive Transport WINE, CULTURAL

( 0800 372 200; www.waiheketransport.co.nz) Options include island highlights tours ($26) and wine tours ($110 to $115).

Festivals & Events

Sculpture on the Gulf ARTS

(www.sculptureonthegulf.co.nz) A 2.5km cliff-top sculpture walk, held for three weeks from late January in odd-numbered years.

Waiheke Island of
Wine Vintage Festival WINE, FOOD, MUSIC

(www.waihekevintagefestival.co.nz; late Mar-early Apr) Held for the first time in 2014, featuring a week of jazz and classical concerts in the vines, plus art exhibitions, a farmers market, and food and wine matching. Seventeen different vineyards are involved, and shuttle buses travel between the different locations.

Waiheke Island International
Jazz Festival MUSIC

(www.waihekejazzfestival.co.nz; prices vary by event) Local and international acts across the island from Friday to Sunday during Easter.

Sleeping

Waiheke is so popular in the summer holidays that many locals rent out their houses and bugger off elsewhere. You’ll need to book ahead and even then there are very few bargains. Prices drop considerably in winter, especially midweek. For midrange accommodation, a good option is to book a holiday home through www.bookabach.co.nz or www.holidayhouses.co.nz, but you’ll need transport to get around.

Fossil Bay Lodge CABIN $

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 8371; www.fossilbay.webs.com; 58 Korora Rd; s $49, d $80-125, tents $80-105; ) Three cute cabins open onto a courtyard facing the main building, which houses the toilets, a communal kitchen and living area, and a compact upstairs apartment. Recently added are two cosy bell tents for ‘glamping’ accommodation, and apart from the occasional squawking duck – or toddler from the adjacent Steiner kindergarten – it’s a peaceful place.

Hekerua Lodge HOSTEL $

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 8990; www.hekerualodge.co.nz; 11 Hekerua Rd; sites from $18, dm $30-36, s $55, d $90-120; ) This secluded hostel is surrounded by native bush and has a barbecue, stone-tiled pool, sunny deck, casual lounge area and its own walking track. It’s far from luxurious, but it has a laid-back and social feel, no doubt assisted by the cool, neutral decor and the serene images of Buddha scattered about.

Kina HOSTEL $

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 8971; www.kinabackpackers.co.nz; 421 Seaview Rd; dm $28-34, s/tw $55/72, d $72-90; ) This old-style, well-positioned hostel has a large garden and lawn overlooking Onetangi Beach. Relatively compact dorms and private rooms are shared between an older building and a newer wing, and it’s run efficiently by a Kiwi couple with young children and a friendly Border Collie.

Whakanewha Regional
Park Campsite CAMPSITE $

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-366 2000; www.arc.govt.nz; Gordons Rd; sites per adult/child $13/6) A pretty but basic campsite with toilets, gas barbecues and drinking water. Self-contained campervans can stay in the adjacent Poukaraka Flats campground.

Tawa Lodge GUESTHOUSE $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 9434; www.pungalodge.co.nz; 15 Tawa St; r $120, apt $175-240; ) Between the self-contained cottage at the front and the apartment at the rear are three reasonably priced loft rooms sharing a small kitchen and bathroom. Look forward to excellent ocean views from the shared deck.

Punga Lodge B&B $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 6675; www.pungalodge.co.nz; 223 Ocean View Rd; r $145-150, units $140-200; ) Both the colourful en suite rooms in the house and the self-contained garden units have access to decks looking onto a lush tropical garden. There’s a spa, and prices include homemade breakfast, afternoon tea and wharf transfers.

The Oyster Inn BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 2222; www.theoysterinn.co.nz; 124 Ocean View Rd; r $285-335) With a breezy and cool ambience inspired by classic American Cape Cod style, The Oyster Inn has just three luxury rooms in the heart of Oneroa. Guests are picked up from the ferry at Matiatia wharf in a retro VW combi van, and this attention to luxurious detail is further enhanced with chic decor, stellar bathroom products and personalised service.

Enclosure Bay B&B $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 8882; www.enclosurebay.co.nz; 9 Great Barrier Rd; r $375, ste $450-499) If you’re going to shell out for a luxury B&B you’re going to want something a little special, and that’s certainly what’s offered here. Each of the three guest rooms have sumptuous views and balconies, and the owners subscribe to the nothing’s-too-much-trouble school of Kiwi hospitality.

Cable Bay Views APARTMENTS $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 2901; www.cablebayviews.co.nz; 103 Church Bay Rd; d $250; ) These three modern, self-contained studio apartments have stellar vineyard views and are handily close to a couple of Waiheke’s best vineyard restaurants. Check the website for good midweek and off-peak discounts.

Eating

Waiheke has some excellent eateries and, if you’re lucky, the views will be enough to distract from the hole being bored into your hip pocket.

Dragonfired PIZZERIA $

OFFLINE MAP

(Little Oneroa Beach; mains $8-16; 10.30am-8.30pm; ) Specialising in ‘artisan woodfired food’, this caravan by the beach serves the three Ps: pizza, polenta plates and pocket bread. It’s easily Waiheke’s best place for cheap eats.

Ostend Market MARKET $

OFFLINE MAP

(www.ostendmarketwaiheke.co.nz; War Memorial Hall, Belgium St; 7.30am-1pm Sat) Fresh local produce, and local craft and secondhand knick-knacks.

Wai Kitchen CAFE $$

OFFLINE MAP

(www.waikitchen.co.nz; 1/149 Ocean View Rd, Oneroa; mains $17-23; 9am-4pm, extended summer) Why? Well firstly there’s the lively menu that abounds with Mediterranean and Asian flavours. Then there’s the charming service and the breezy ambience of this glassed-in wedge, facing the wai (water).

Casita Miro SPANISH $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 7854; www.mirovineyard.co.nz; 3 Brown St, Onetangi; dishes $19-40; noon-3pm daily, 6-10pm Thu-Sat Jan-Feb, reduced hours in winter) A wrought iron and glass pavilion backed with a Gaudi-esque mosaic garden is the stage for a very entertaining troupe of servers who will guide you through the menu of delectable ración tapas – dishes bigger than regular tapas, designed to be shared.

The Oyster Inn SEAFOOD, MODERN NZ $$

( 09-372 2222; www.theoysterinn.co.nz; 124 Ocean View Rd; mains $23-36; 11am-late) The Oyster Inn is a popular destination for Auckland’s smart set. It has an excellent seafood-skewed bistro menu, oysters and champagne, and a buzzy but relaxed vibe that’s part bar and part restaurant. Brunch from 11am on the verandah is a great way to ease into another Waiheke day.

Delight CAFE, TURKISH $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 9035; www.delightcafe.co.nz; 29 Waikare Rd, Oneroa; mains $14-23, mezze $10-19; 8am-3pm) If you’re bored with eggs Benedict, try one of the piquant breakfast tagines at this stylish cafe/mezze bar. Paninis, wraps and salads are served along with more traditional mezze, and the views are just as delicious.

Solar Eating House CAFE, BAR $$

OFFLINE MAP

(139 Oceanview Rd; mains $15-24; 8am-9.30pm) With a spacious outdoor area and ocean views, Solar is our relaxed choice for the first coffee – or beer or glass of wine – of the day. Lots of local organic and sustainable produce underpins the menu.

Poderi Crisci ITALIAN $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 2148; www.podericrisci.co.nz; 205 Awaawaroa Rd; mains $24-33; noon-3pm Thu-Mon, extended hrs in summer) Poderi Crisci has quickly gained a sterling reputation for its food, particularly its legendary four-hour long ­lunches on Sundays ($65 per person). Italian varietals and olives have been planted alongside the existing vines. Definitely worth the drive into the restaurant’s isolated valley.

Te Whau WINERY $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 7191; www.tewhau.com; 218 Te Whau Dr; mains $37-42; 11am-5pm Wed-Mon, 6.30pm-late Sat Nov-Easter, reduced hrs in winter) Perched on the end of Te Whau peninsula, this winery restaurant has exceptional views, food and service, and one of the finest wine lists you’ll see in the country. Try its own impressive Bordeaux blends, merlot, chardonnay and rosé for $3 per taste (11am to 5pm).

Cable Bay WINERY $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 5889; www.cablebayvineyards.co.nz; 12 Nick Johnstone Dr; two/three courses $72/90; noon-3pm & 6pm-late daily) Impressive ubermodern architecture, sculpture and beautiful views set the scene for this acclaimed restaurant. The food is sublime, but if the budget won’t stretch to a meal, stop in for a wine tasting (from $8), or snacks from the small-plates menu ($10 to $15) on the terrace from 11am.

Mudbrick WINERY $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-372 9050; www.mudbrick.co.nz; 126 Church Bay Rd; mains $42-49, tasting menu with/without wine $190/110; 11.30am-3.30pm & 6pm-10.30pm) Auckland and the gulf are at their glistening best when viewed from Mudbrick’s picturesque verandah. The winery also offers tours and tastings (from $10, 10am to 5pm).

Drinking & Nightlife

You’ll find bars in Oneroa and pubs in Surf­dale and Ostend.

Charlie Farley’s BAR

OFFLINE MAP

(www.charliefarleys.co.nz; 21 The Strand, Onetangi; 8.30am-late) It’s easy to see why the locals love this place when you’re supping on a Waiheke wine or beer under the pohutukawa on the beach-gazing deck.

4th Avenue Eatery & Bar PUB, CAFE

OFFLINE MAP

(www.fourthavenue.co.nz; 1 Fourth Ave, Onetangi) Part bar and part bistro, all served up with cool and classy decor and Onetangi Beach views from the sunny deck. There’s a good selection of tap beers and decent shared plates and platters ($20 to $49).

Information

Waiheke Island i-SITE ( 09-372 1234; www.waihekenz.com; 118 Ocean View Rd; 9am-5pm) As well as the very helpful main office, there’s a (usually unstaffed) counter in the ferry terminal at Matiatia Wharf.

Getting There & Away

360 Discovery ( 0800 360 3472; www.360discovery.co.nz) You can pick up the 360 Discovery tourist ferry at Orapiu on its journey between Auckland and Coromandel Town. However, note that Orapiu is quite remote and not served by buses.

Fullers ( 09-367 9111; www.fullers.co.nz; return adult/child $36/18; 5.20am-11.45pm Mon-Fri, 6.25am-11.45pm Sat, 7am-9.30pm Sun) Frequent passenger ferries from Auckland’s Ferry Building to Matiatia Wharf (on the hour from 9am to 5pm), some via Devonport.

Sealink ( 09-300 5900; www.sealink.co.nz; adult/child/car/motorcycle return $36.50/20/152/58; 4.30am-6.30pm Mon-Thu, 4.30am-8pm Fri, 6am-6.30pm Sat & Sun) Runs car ferries to Kennedy Point, mainly from Half Moon Bay (east Auckland) but some leave from Wynyard Wharf in the city. The ferry runs at least every two hours and takes 45 minutes (booking essential).

Getting Around

Bike

Various bicycle routes are outlined in the Bike Waiheke! brochure, available from the wharf and the i-SITE; be prepared for a few hills.

Waiheke Bike Hire ( 09-372 7937; www.waihekebikehire.co.nz; Matiatia Wharf) Hires mountain bikes (half-/full day $25/35) from their base near the wharf and at the Oneroa i-SITE.

Waiheke E Bikes ( 027 467 883, 022 050 2233; www.waihekeebikes.co.nz; per day $50) Parts of Waiheke are quite hilly, so ease the load with these hybrid machines combining pedalling with electric motors. If you order two bikes, they’ll pick you up and return you to the ferry for free.

Bus

The island has regular bus services, starting from Matiatia Wharf and heading through Oneroa (adult/child $1.60/0.80, five minutes) on their way to all the main settlements, as far west as Onetangi (adult/child $4.40/2.40, 30 minutes); see Auckland Transport ( 09-366 6400; www.at.govt.nz) for timetables. A day pass (adult/child $9/5.50) is available from the Fullers counter at Matiatia Wharf.

Waiheke Vineyard Hopper ( 09-367 9111; www.waihekevineyardhopper.co.nz; per person $20; Dec 26-early Feb) Handy option with dedicated shuttles travelling around eight different Waiheke vineyards every 40 minutes during summer. A $54 pass also includes ferry tickets and local Waiheke buses.

Car, Motorbike & Scooter

Fun Rentals ( 09-372 8001; www.funrentals.co.nz; 14a Belgium St, Ostend; per day car/scooter/4WD from $59/49/59)

Rent Me Waiheke ( 09-372 3339; www.rentmewaiheke.co.nz; 14 Ocean View Rd, Matiatia; per day cars/scooters $59/49)

Waiheke Auto Rentals ( 09-372 8998; www.waihekerentals.co.nz; Matiatia Wharf; per day car/scooter from $69/79)

Waiheke Rental Cars ( 09-372 8635; www.waihekerentalcars.co.nz; Matiatia Wharf; per day car/4WD from $59/79)

Taxi

Island Taxis ( 0800 372 4111; www.islandtaxis.co.nz)

Waiheke Express Taxis ( 0800 700 789; www.waihekeexpresstaxis.co.nz)

Waiheke Independent Taxis ( 0800 300 372)

Rotoroa Island

From 1911 to 2005 the only people to have access to this blissful little island on the far side of Waiheke were the alcoholics and drug addicts who came (or were sentenced) here to dry out, and the Salvation Army staff who cared for them. In 2011, after 100 years, 82-hectare Rotoroa ( 0800 76 86 76; www.rotoroa.org.nz; access fee $5) opened to the public, giving visitors access to three sandy swimming beaches and the social history and art displays in the restored buildings of the former treatment centre. There are also three well-appointed, wildly retro holiday homes for rent ($375 to $650), and excellent hostel accommodation in dorms (per person $35) in the former Superintendent’s House.

Getting There & Away

360 Discovery ( 0800 360 3472; www.360discovery.co.nz; adult/child from Auckland $49/29, from Orapiu $21/13) From Auckland the ferry takes 75 minutes, stopping at Orapiu on Waiheke Island en route. There are four boats per week from Labour Day in October to Easter (daily in January) and two boats per week over the cooler months.

Tiritiri Matangi Island

This magical, 220-hectare, predator-free island (www.tiritirimatangi.org.nz) is home to the tuatara (a prehistoric lizard) and lots of endangered native birds, including the very rare and colourful takahe. Other birds that can be seen here include the bellbird, stitchbird, saddleback, whitehead, kakariki, kokako, little spotted kiwi, brown teal, NZ robin, fernbird and penguins; 78 different species have been sighted in total. The saddleback was once close to extinction, with just 150 left, but now there are more than 600 on Tiritiri alone. To experience the dawn ­chorus in full flight, stay overnight at the DOC bunkhouse ( 09-425 7812; www.doc.govt.nz; adult/child $30/20) ; book well ahead and ensure there’s room on the ferry.

The island was sold to the Crown in 1841, deforested, and farmed until the 1970s. Since 1984 hundreds of volunteers have planted 250,000 native trees and the forest cover has regenerated. An 1864 lighthouse stands on the eastern end of the island.

Getting There & Away

360 Discovery ( 0800 360 3472; www.360discovery.co.nz; return Auckland/Gulf Harbour $69/37; Wed-Sun) Book a guided walk ($5) with your ferry ticket; the guides know where all the really cool birds hang out.

Motuora Island

Halfway between Tiritiri Matangi and Kawau, Motuora has 80 predator-free hectares and is used as a kiwi ‘crèche’. There’s a wharf on the west coast of the island, but you’ll need your own boat to get here. The DOC campsite ( 027-492 8586; www.doc.govt.nz; adult/child $6/3) requires bookings and provides toilets, cold showers and water. There’s also a cottage that sleeps five ($52); bring your own linen and food.

Kawau Island

Pop 300

Kawau Island lies 50km north of Auckland off the Mahurangi Peninsula. There are few proper roads through the island, the residents relying mainly on boats. The main attraction is Mansion House (adult/child $4/2; noon-2pm) , an impressive wooden manor extended from an 1845 structure by Governor George Grey, who purchased the island in 1862. It houses a fine collection of Victoriana, including some of Grey’s effects, and is surrounded by the original exotic gardens. A set of short walks (10 minutes to two hours) are signposted from Mansion House, leading to beaches, the old copper mine, and a lookout; download DOC’s Kawau Island Historic Reserve map (www.doc.govt.nz).

Sleeping & Eating

Kawau Lodge B&B $$$

( 09-422 8831; www.kawaulodge.co.nz; North Cove; s $160, d $210-245) This ecoconscious boutique hotel has its own jetty, wrap-around decks and views. Meals ($10 to $75) can be arranged, as can excursions.

Mansion House Cafe Restaurant CAFE $$

( 09-422 8903; lunch $12-18, dinner $18-28; hours vary) If you haven’t packed a picnic, this idyllically situated eatery serves all-day breakfasts, sandwiches and hearty evening meals.

Getting There & Away

Kawau Water Taxis ( 0800 111 616; www.kawaucruises.co.nz) Daily ferries from Sandspit to Kawau (adult/child return $55/31) and a water-taxi service (minimum charge $142.50). The Super Cruise (adult/child $68/30, barbecue lunch $27/15) departs Sandspit at 10.30am and circles the island, delivering the post to 75 different wharves.

Great Barrier Island

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Named Aotea (meaning cloud) by the Maori, and Great Barrier (due to its position at the edge of the Hauraki Gulf) by Captain James Cook, this rugged and exceptionally beautiful place falls in behind South, North and Stewart as NZ’s fourth-largest island (285 sq km). It closely resembles the Coromandel Peninsula to which it was once joined, and like the Coromandel it was once a mining, logging and whaling centre. Those industries have long gone and today two-thirds of the island is publicly owned and managed by DOC.

Great Barrier has unspoilt beaches, hot springs, old kauri dams, a forest sanctuary and a network of tramping tracks. Because there are no possums on the island, the native bush is lush.

Although only 88km from Auckland, Great Barrier seems a world – and a good many years – away. The island has no supermarket, no electricity supply (only private solar, wind and diesel generators) and no main drainage (only septic tanks). Many roads are unsealed and petrol costs are high. Mobile-phone reception is very limited and there are no banks, ATMs or street lights.

From around mid-December to mid-­January is the peak season, so make sure you book transport, accommodation and activities well in advance.

Tryphena is the main settlement, 4km from the ferry wharf at Shoal Bay. Strung out along several kilometres of coastal road, it consists of a few dozen houses and a handful of shops and accommodation places. From the wharf it’s 3km to Mulberry Grove, and then another 1km over the headland to Pa Beach and the Stonewall Store (Click here).

The airport is at Claris, 12km north of Tryphena, a small settlement with a general store, bottle shop, laundrette, garage, pharmacy and cafe.

Whangaparapara is an old timber town and the site of the island’s 19th-century whaling activities. Port Fitzroy is the other main harbour on the west coast, a one-hour drive from Tryphena. These four main settlements have fuel available.

Activities

Water Sports

The beaches on the west coast are safe, but care needs to be taken on the surf-pounded eastern beaches. Medlands Beach, with its wide sweep of white sand, is one of the most beautiful and accessible beaches on the ­island. Remote Whangapoua, in the northeast, requires more effort to get to, while Kaitoke, Awana Bay and Harataonga on the east coast are also worth a visit.

Okiwi Bar has an excellent right-hand break, while Awana has both left- and right-hand breaks. Pohutukawa trees shelter the pretty bays around Tryphena.

Diving is excellent, with shipwrecks, pinnacles, lots of fish and more than 33m visibility at some times of the year.

Hooked on Barrier DIVING, FISHING

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0740; www.hookedonbarrier.co.nz; 89 Hector Sanderson Rd; half-/full-day charter $700/1200) Hires out diving, snorkelling, fishing, surfing and kayaking gear, and runs fishing, diving and sightseeing charters.

Mountain Biking

With rugged scenery and relatively little traffic on the roads, mountain biking is a popular activity. There’s a designated 25km ride beginning on Blind Bay Rd, Okupu, winding beneath the Ahumata cliffs before crossing Whangaparapara Rd and beginning the 15km Forest Rd ride through beauti­ful forest to Port Fitzroy. Cycling on other DOC walking tracks is prohibited.

Tramping

The island’s very popular walking tracks are outlined in DOC’s free Great Barrier Island (Aotea Island) booklet. Before setting out, make sure you’re properly equipped with water and food, and be prepared for both sunny and wet weather.

The most popular easy walk is the 45-minute Kaitoke Hot Springs Track, starting from Whangaparapara Rd and leading to natural hot springs in a bush stream. Check the temperature before getting in and don’t put your head under the water.

Windy Canyon, which is only a 15-minute walk from Aotea Rd, has spectacular rock outcrops and affords great views of the ­island. From Windy Canyon, an excellent trail continues for another two to three hours through scrubby forest to Hirakimata (Mt Hobson, 621m), the highest point on the island, with views across the Hauraki Gulf and Coromandel. Near the top of the mountain are lush forests and a few mature kauri trees that survived the logging days. From Hirakimata it is 40 minutes south to Mt Heale Hut or two hours west through forest and past a kauri driving dam to Kaiaraara Hut, where it’s another 45 minutes on to Port Fitzroy.

A more challenging tramp is the hilly Tramline Track (five hours), which starts on Aotea Rd and follows old logging tramlines to Whangaparapara Harbour. The initial stages of this track are not maintained and in some parts the clay becomes slippery after rain.

Of a similar length, but flatter and easier walking, is the 11km Harataonga Coastal Walk (five hours) which heads from Harataonga Bay to Whangapoua.

Many other trails traverse the forest, taking between 30 minutes and five hours. The Aotea Track combines bits of other paths into a three-day walk, overnighting in each of the huts.

See Click here for details of shuttle buses to and from the trailheads.

Sleeping

Unless you’re camping, Great Barrier isn’t a cheap place to stay. At pretty much every price point you’ll pay more than you would for a similar place elsewhere. In the off-seaon, however, rates drop considerably. Island Accommodation ( 09-429 0995; www.islandaccommodation.co.nz) offers a booking service, which is handy for finding self-contained houses for longer stays. Check ­accommodation and island information websites for packages including flights and car rental. Note that accommodation rates soar for around two weeks following Christmas and the island also gets very busy during this time.

Medlands Beach Backpackers HOSTEL $

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0320; www.medlandsbeach.com; 9 Mason Rd; dm $35, d/units from $70/120) Chill out in the garden of this house on the hill, overlooking beautiful Medlands Beach. The backpackers’ area is simple, with a little double cabin for romantic budgeteers at a slight remove from the rest. The self-contained houses sleep up to six.

Crossroads Lodge HOSTEL $

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0889; www.xroadslodge.com; 1 Blind Bay Rd; dm/s/d $30/50/75; ) This low-key backpackers is 2km from the airfield and close to forest walks and hot springs. Mountain bikes can be hired, and golf clubs can be borrowed to play on the nearby nine-hole golf course.

Kaiaraara & Mt Heale Huts HUT $

OFFLINE MAP

(www.doc.govt.nz; dm per adult/child $15/7.50) These DOC huts in the Great Barrier Forest have bunk beds, cold running water, chemical toilets and a kitchen/dining area. Bring your own sleeping bag and cooking/eating equipment and book online. Mt Heale Hut sleeps 20 people and has a gas cooker, but Kaiaraara Hut (which sleeps 24) doesn’t. Both must be booked in advance.

DOC Campsites CAMPSITE $

( 09-379 6476; www.doc.govt.nz; site per adult/child $10/5) There are campsites at Harataonga Bay, Medlands Beach, Akapoua Bay, Whangapoua, The Green (Whangaparapara) and Awana Bay. All have basic facilities, including water, cold showers (except for at The Green), toilets and a food-­preparation shelter. You need to bring your own gas cooking stove as open fires are prohibited. Book in advance online.

Aotea Lodge APARTMENT $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0628; www.aotealodge.com; 41 Medland Rd; units $100-150; ) A well-tended, sunny garden surrounds these reasonably priced units, perched on the hill just above Tryphena. They range from a two-bedroom house to an unusual mezzanine unit loaded with bunks, and each has its own cooking ­facilities.

Shoal Bay Lodge APARTMENT $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0890; www.shoalbaylodge.co.nz; 145 Shoal Bay Rd; apt $160-290) Hidden among the trees these comfy self-contained apartments offer sea views, bird song and solar power. Best is the three-bedroom lodge with its sunset-guzzling deck.

Tipi & Bob’s Waterfront Lodge MOTEL $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0550; www.waterfrontlodge.co.nz; 38 Puriri Bay Rd; units $195-250) West of Tryphena, these smart motel-style units have some wonderful sea views and very helpful owners. The complex includes a restaurant and bar, and there’s also a compact double room available for $135.

Sunset Waterfront Lodge MOTEL $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0051; www.sunsetlodge.co.nz; Mulberry Grove; apt $195-245) Gaze across the lawn to the sea from the attractive studio units, or fight over who’s going to get the pointy room in the two-bedroom A-frame villas. There’s a small shop and cafe next door.

Eating & Drinking

In summer, most places are open daily but for the rest of the year the hours can be sporadic. A monthly guide to opening hours is on www.thebarrier.co.nz, but it pays to call ahead for an evening meal.

Self-caterers will find small stores in Tryphena, Claris, Whangaparapara and Port Fitzroy. The Stonewall Store OFFLINE MAP (82 Blackwell Dr; 8.30am-6pm) in Tryphena has a good selection of wine, beer and locally grown produce, and also operates a small al fresco market from 10am on Saturday mornings.

Wild Rose CAFE $

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0905; Blackwell Dr; mains $11-21; 10am-3pm Wed-Sun; ) Wild Rose does the best impersonation of an Auckland cafe on the island, albeit with the addition of local crowd-pleasers such as toasted sandwiches and legendary burgers. It uses free-range, organic and sustainable local produce whenever possible.

Claris Texas CAFE $

OFFLINE MAP

(129 Hector Sanderson Rd; mains $7-18; 8am-4pm; ) While it doesn’t live up to the promise of its quirky name, this is the best gap-filler in the centre of the island, serving cooked breakfasts, nachos, salads and pies.

Currach Irish Pub PUB $$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0211; www.currachirishpub.co.nz; Blackwell Dr; mains $19-30; from 4pm) This lively, child-friendly pub has a changing menu of seafood, steak and burgers, and is the island’s main social centre. Rub shoulders with local musos on jam nights.

Tipi & Bob’s RESTAURANT $$$

OFFLINE MAP

( 09-429 0550; www.waterfrontlodge.co.nz; 38 Puriri Bay Rd; breakfast $16-20, dinner $34-40; 8.30-10am & 5.30-10pm) Serving simple but satisfying meals in large portions, this popular haunt has an inviting deck overlooking the harbour. There’s a cheaper pub menu in the bar.

Shopping

Aotea Community Art Gallery ARTS & CRAFTS

OFFLINE MAP

(80 Hector Sanderson Rd; 10.30am-3.30pm) This eclectic showcase for the island’s artsy fraternity sells everything from paintings and sculpture to handmade soap and local honey.

Information

There’s an information kiosk at the GBI Rent-A-Car office (Click here) in Claris. Claris Texas cafe has internet access.

Great Barrier Island i-SITE (www.greatbarrier­nz.com; Claris Airport; 11am-noon Mon, Wed & Fri, 8am-2.30pm Sat, extended in summer) Brochures including their own Great Barrier Island pamphlet with useful information and a handy map.

Port Fitzroy Information Kiosk ( 09-429 0848; www.thebarrier.co.nz; 9.30am-3pm Mon-Sat) Privately run kiosk that publishes the Great Barrier Island Visitor Information Guide .

Getting There & Away

Air

FlyMySky ( 09-256 7025, 0800 222 123; www.flymysky.co.nz) Flies at least three times a day to Claris from Auckland. Cheaper flights are available if you travel to the island on a Sunday or leave on a Friday ($89), and there’s a special return fare for flying one way and ferrying the other (adult/child $187/138).

Great Barrier Airlines ( 09-275 9120, 0800 900 600; www.greatbarrierairlines.co.nz) Departs from Auckland Domestic Airport (at least twice daily) and North Shore Aerodrome (at least daily) for the 30-minute flight to Claris. In summer it also flies from Whangarei.

Sunair ( 0800 786 847; www.sunair.co.nz; one way $150-190) Flies to Claris from Whitianga and Tauranga daily.

Boat

Fullers ( 09-367 9111; www.fullers.co.nz; Ferry Building, 99 Quay St) Runs the fastest services (2½ hours) from Auckland’s Ferry Building to Shoal Bay and Port Fitzroy from mid-December to the end of January, as well as around Labour Weekend in late October and on the Easter long weekend. Passengers only.

SeaLink ( 09-300 5900, 0800 732 546; www.sealink.co.nz) Runs car ferries from three to five days a week from Wynyard Wharf in Auckland to Tryphena’s Shoal Bay (six hours).

Getting Around

Most roads are narrow and windy but even small hire cars can handle the unsealed sections. Many of the accommodation places will pick you up from the airport or wharf if notified in advance.

Aotea Car Rentals ( 0800 426 832; www.aoteacarrentals.co.nz; Mulberry Grove) Rents cars (from $60), 4WDs (from $80) and vans (from $99). Rental clients can use Great Barrier Travel trampers shuttles for free.

GBI Rent-A-Car ( 09-429 0062; www.greatbarrierisland.co.nz; 67 Hector Sanderson Rd) Has a somewhat battered fleet of cars starting at $40 and 4WDs from $70. They also operate shuttle services from Claris to Tryphena ($20), Medlands ($15), Whangaparapara ($20) and Port Fitzroy ($30, minimum four passengers), as well as trampers shuttles. There’s a $5 flagfall for solo passengers; call ahead to book.

Great Barrier Travel ( 09-429 0474, 0800 426 832; www.greatbarriertravel.co.nz) Runs shuttles between Tryphena and Claris (timed to meet all the planes and boats), a daily shuttle from Claris to Port Fitzroy, and transfers to and from the walking tracks. Call ahead to confirm times and to book.

West Auckland

West Auckland epitomises rugged: wild black-sand beaches, bush-shrouded ranges, and mullet-haired, black-T-shirt-wearing ‘Westies’. The latter is just one of several stereotypes of the area’s denizens. Others include the back-to-nature hippie, the eccentric bohemian artist and the dope-smoking surfer dude, all attracted to a simple life at the edge of the bush.

Add to the mix Croatian immigrants, earning the fertile fields at the base of the Waitakere Ranges the nickname ‘Dallie Valley’ after the Dalmatian coast where many hailed from. These pioneering families planted grapes and made wine, founding one of NZ’s major industries.

Titirangi

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This little village marks the end of Auckland’s suburban sprawl and is a good place to spot all of the stereotypes mentioned above over a coffee, wine or cold beer. Once home to NZ’s greatest modern painter, Colin McCahon, there remains an artsy feel to the place. Titirangi means ‘Fringe of Heaven’ – an apt name for the gateway to the Waita­kere Ranges. This is the last stop for petrol and ATMs on your way west.

Sights

McCahon House MUSEUM

(www.mccahonhouse.org.nz; 67 Otitori Bay Rd; admission $5; 10am-3pm Wed, Sat & Sun) It’s a mark of the esteem in which Colin McCahon is held that the house he lived and painted in during the 1950s has been opened to the public as a mini-museum. The swish pad next door is home to the artist lucky enough to win the McCahon Arts Residency. Look for the signposts pointing down Park Rd, just before you reach Titirangi village.

Lopdell House Gallery GALLERY

(www.lopdell.org.nz; 418 Titirangi Rd; 10am-4.30pm) An excellent modern art gallery housed in the former Hotel Titirangi (1930), on the edge of the village. A significant restoration from 2012–2014 has further restored the building’s heritage glory.

Sleeping & Eating

Fringe of Heaven B&B $$$

( 09-817 8682; www.fringeofheaven.com; 4 Otitori Bay Rd; r $230) Surrounded by native bush, this Frank Lloyd Wright–inspired house offers glorious views over Manukau Harbour, an outdoor bath, glowworms in the garden and a songbird choir – all within 20 minutes of the city centre.

Hardware Cafe CAFE $$

(www.hardwarecafe.org.nz; 404 Titirangi Rd; brunch $10-18, dinner $18-28; 6am-4.30pm Sun-Tue, 6am-late Wed-Sat) This popular licensed cafe serves delicious, reasonably priced cooked breakfasts and lunches along with tempting counter food. More substantial evening meals start from $18.

Waitakere Ranges

This 160-sq-km wilderness was covered in kauri until the mid-19th century, when logging claimed most of the giant trees. A few stands of ancient kauri and other mature natives survive amid the dense bush of the regenerating rainforest, which is now protected inside the Waitakere Ranges Regional Park. Bordered to the west by wildly beauti­ful beaches on the Tasman Sea, the park’s rugged terrain makes an excellent day trip from Auckland.

Sights & Activities

Arataki VISITORS CENTRE

( 09-817 0077; www.arc.govt.nz; Scenic Dr; 9am-5pm) As well as providing information on the 250km of trails within the park, this impressive centre also features Maori carvings and spectacular views. The carvings at the entrance depict the ancestors of the Kawerau iwi . You can also book here for several basic campsites (adult/child $6/4) within the park. A 1.6km nature trail opposite the centre leads visitors past labelled ­native species, including mature kauri.

Hillary Trail & Other Tracks TRAMPING

(www.arc.govt.nz/hillarytrail) Arataki Vistor Centre is the starting point for this challenging 70km trail honouring Everest-conqueror Sir Edmund Hillary. It can be tackled in stages or in its four-day entirety, staying at campsites along the way. Walkers head to the coast at Huia, then continue past Whatipu, Karekare, Piha and Anawhata. From here continue up the coast to Te Henga and Muriwai, or head through bush to the Cascades Kauri to end at Swanson train station.

Other noted walks in the park include the Kitekite Track (1.8km, 30 minutes one way), the Fairy Falls Track (5.6km, 2½-hour loop) and the Auckland City Walk (1.5km, one-hour loop).

Rain Forest Express RAILWAY

( 09-302 8028; www.watercare.co.nz; 280 Scenic Dr; 2½hr trip adult/child $25/12) Departs from Jacobsons’ Depot and follows an old logging track through several tunnels deep into the bush. You’ll need to book well ahead; check the website for the schedule. Less regular are the 3½-hour twilight trips (adult/child $28/14), offering glimpses of glowworms and cave weta.

Waitakere Tramline Society RAILWAY

( 09-818 4946; www.waitakeretramline.org.nz; adult/child $15/5) Runs four scenic trips every Sunday that pass through a glowworm tunnel en route to the Waitakere Falls and Dam. Trips start from the end of Christian Rd, which runs south of Swanson station. Closed temporarily at the time of writing; check the website for the latest.

AWOL Canyoning Adventures CANYONING

( 09-834 0501; www.awoladventures.co.nz; half-/full day $160/195) Offers plenty of slippery, slidey, wet fun in Piha Canyon and the Blue Canyon, including glowworm-­illuminated night trips ($185); transfers from Auckland are included.

Karekare

Few stretches of sand have more personality than Karekare. Those prone to metaphysical musings inevitably settle on descriptions such as ‘spiritual’ and ‘brooding’. Perhaps history has left its imprint: in 1825 it was the site of a ruthless massacre of the local Kawerau iwi by Ngapuhi invaders. Wild and gorgeously undeveloped, this famous beach has been the setting for onscreen moments both high- and lowbrow, from Oscar-winner The Piano , to Xena, Warrior Princess .

From the car park the quickest route to the black-sand beach involves wading through a stream. Karekare rates as one of the most dangerous beaches in the country, with strong surf and ever-present rips, so don’t even think about swimming unless the beach is being patrolled by lifeguards (usually only in summer). In 1995 Pearl Jam singer Eddie Vedder nearly drowned here while visiting Neil Finn’s Karekare pad.

Follow the road over the bridge and up along Lone Kauri Rd for 100m, where a short track leads to the pretty Karekare Falls. This leafy picnic spot is the start of several walking tracks.

Karekare has no shops of any description and no public transport. To get here take Scenic Dr and Piha Rd until you reach the well-signposted turn-off to Karekare Rd.

Piha

If you notice an Auckland surfer dude with a faraway look, chances are they’re daydreaming about Piha… or just stoned. This beautifully rugged, iron-sand beach has long been a favourite for refugees from the city’s stresses­ – whether for day trips, weekend teenage parties or family holidays.

Although Piha is popular, it’s also incredibly dangerous, with wild surf and strong undercurrents; so much so that it’s spawned its own popular reality TV show, Piha Rescue . If you don’t want to inadvertently star in it, always swim between the flags, where lifeguards can provide help if you get into trouble.

Piha may be bigger and more populated than Karekare, but there’s no supermarket, liquor shop, bank or petrol station, although there is a small general store that doubles as a cafe, takeaway shop and post office.

Sights & Activities

The view of the coast as you drive down Piha Rd is spectacular. Perched on its haunches near the centre of the beach is Lion Rock (101m), whose ‘mane’ glows golden in the evening light. It’s actually the eroded core of an ancient volcano and a Maori pa site. A path at the south end of the beach takes you to some great lookouts. At low tide you can walk south along the beach and watch the surf shooting through a ravine in another large rock known as the Camel. A little further along, the waves crash through the Gap and form a safe swimming hole. A small colony of blue penguins nests at the beach’s north end.

For surfboard hire, refer to the Piha Store and Piha Surf Shop listings.

Sleeping & Eating

Piha Beachstay – Jandal Palace HOSTEL $

( 09-812 8381; www.pihabeachstay.co.nz; 38 Glenesk Rd; dm $33, r $80-120; ) Attractive and ecofriendly, this wood-and-glass lodge has extremely smart facilities. It’s 1km from the beach but there’s a little stream at the bottom of the property and bushwalks nearby. In winter an open fire warms the large communal lounge.

Piha Domain Motor Camp CAMPSITE $

( 09-812 8815; www.pihabeach.co.nz; 21 Seaview Rd; sites from $15, s/d cabin $50/60; ) Smack-bang on the beach, this well-kept campsite is great for those seeking an old-fashioned, cheap-as-chips, no-frills, family holiday. To keep unruly teens at bay, under 20s must be accompanied by parents. The cabins are tiny.

Piha Surf Accommodation CABIN $

( 09-812 8723; www.pihasurf.co.nz; 122 Seaview Rd; caravans & cabins $60-90) Each basic but charmingly tatty caravan has its own linen, TV, fridge, cooker and long-drop toilet, and they share a very simple shower. The private cabins have the same rudimentary bathroom arrangement but are a more comfortable option.

Black Sands Lodge APARTMENT $$

( 021 969 924; www.pihabeach.co.nz/Black-Sands-Lodge.htm; Beach Valley Rd; cabin $130, apt $180-220; ) These two modern conjoined apartments with private decks match their prime location with attractive touches such as stereos and DVD players. The cabin is kitted out in a 1950s Kiwiana bach style and shares a bathroom with the main house. Bikes and wi-fi are free for guests, and in-room massage and lavish dinners can be arranged on request.

Piha Store BAKERY $

(Seaview Rd; snacks $2-10; 7.30am-5.30pm) Call in for pies and other baked goods, groceries and ice creams. The attached Lion Rock Surf Shop rents surfboards (two hours/half-day/day $20/30/40) and body boards ($10/20/30).

Piha Cafe CAFE $$

(20 Seaview Rd; mains $14-23; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Thu, 8.30am-7pm Fri-Sun) Big-city standards mesh seamlessly with sand-between-toes informality at this attractive ecofriendly cafe. Cooked breakfasts and crispy pizzas provide sustenance for a hard day’s surfing. After the waves, head back for a cold beverage on the deck.

Shopping

West Coast Gallery ARTS & CRAFTS

(www.westcoastgallery.co.nz; Seaview Rd; 10am-5pm Wed-Sun) The work of more than 180 local artists is sold from this small not-for-profit gallery next to the Piha fire station.

Piha Surf Shop OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT

(www.pihasurf.co.nz; 122 Seaview Rd; 8am-5pm) A family-run venture, with well-known surfboard designer Mike Jolly selling his wares and wife Pam selling a small range of crafts. Surfboards (per three hours/day $25/35), wet suits ($8/15) and body boards ($15/25) can be hired, and private surfing lessons can be arranged.

Getting There & Away

There’s no public transport to Piha, but NZ Surf’n’Snow Tours ( 09-828 0426; www.newzealandsurftours.com; one way $25, return trip incl surfing gear $99) provides shuttles when the surf’s up. Go Hitch ( 0800 467 442; www.gohitch.co.nz; per person $40; departs 8.30am & 10.30am Sat & Sun) also operates a Piha shuttle from downtown Auckland and Ponsonby on weekends.

Te Henga (Bethells Beach)

Breathtaking Bethells Beach is reached by taking Te Henga Rd at the northern end of Scenic Dr. It’s another raw, black-sand beach with surf, windswept dunes and walks, such as the popular one over giant sand dunes to Lake Wainamu (starting near the bridge on the approach to the beach).

Kumeu & Around

West Auckland’s main wine-producing area still has some vineyards owned by the original Croatian families who kick-started NZ’s wine industry. The fancy eateries that have mushroomed in recent years have done little to dint the relaxed farmland feel to the region, but everything to encourage an afternoon’s indulgence on the way back from the beach or the hot pools. Most cellars offer free tastings.

Eating & Drinking

Tasting Shed TAPAS $$

( 09-412 6454; www.thetastingshed.co.nz; 609 SH16; dishes $5-24; 4-10pm Wed & Thu, noon-11pm Fri-Sun) Complementing its rural aspect with rustic chic decor, this slick eatery conjures up delicious dishes designed to be shared. It’s not strictly tapas, as the menu strays from Spain, and appropriates flavours from Asia, the Middle East, Croatia, Serbia, Italy and France.

Hallertau BREWERY

( 09-412 5555; www.hallertau.co.nz; 1171 Coatesville-Riverhead Hwy, Riverhead; shared plates $11-15, mains $24-31; 11am-midnight) Hallertau offers tasting paddles ($14) of its craft beers served on a vine-covered terrace edging the restaurant. Regular guest beers, good food, and occasional weekend DJs and live music make it very popular with Auckland’s hopheads.

Soljans Estate WINERY

(www.soljans.co.nz; 366 SH16; mains $19-33; tastings 9am-5.30pm, cafe 9.30am-3pm) One of the pioneering Croat-Kiwi family vineyards, Soljans has a wonderful cafe offering brunch, Dalmatian-style squid and Vintner’s platters crammed with Mediterranean treats.

Riverhead PUB

(www.theriverhead.co.nz; cnr Queen & York Sts, Riverhead; mains $20-31; 11am-late Mon-Fri, 10am-late Sat & Sun) A blissful terrace, shaded by oak trees and overlooking the river, makes this 1857 hotel a memorable drink stop, even if the menu doesn’t quite live up to its gastropub ambitions. Make a day of it, with a boat cruise (Click here) from the city to the pub’s own jetty.

Kumeu River WINERY

(www.kumeuriver.co.nz; 550 SH16; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat) Owned by the Brajkovich family, this winery produces one of NZ’s best chardonnays, among other varietals.

Coopers Creek WINERY

(www.cooperscreek.co.nz; 601 SH16, Huapai; 10.30am-5.30pm) Buy a bottle, spread out a picnic in the attractive gardens and, from January to Easter, enjoy Sunday afternoon jazz sessions.

Getting There & Away

From central Auckland, Kumeu is 25km up the Northwestern Motorway (SH16). Helensville-bound buses head here from Lower Albert St (adult/child $7.90/4.50, 50 minutes), but you’ll really need a car or bike to get around.

Muriwai Beach

Yet another rugged black-sand surf beach, stretching 60km, Muriwai Beach’s main claim to fame is the Takapu Refuge gannet colony, spread over the southern headland and outlying rock stacks. Viewing platforms get you close enough to watch (and smell) these fascinating seabirds. Every August hundreds of adult birds return to this spot to hook up with their regular partners and get busy – expect lots of outrageously cute neck-rubbing, bill-touching and general snuggling. The net result is a single chick per season; December and January are the best times to see the little fellas testing their wings before embarking on an impressive odyssey.

Nearby, a couple of short tracks will take you through beautiful native bush to a lookout that offers views along the length of the beach. Wild surf and treacherous rips mean that swimming is safe only when the beach is patrolled (swim between the flags). Apart from surfing, Muriwai Beach is a popular spot for hang gliding, parapunting, kiteboarding and horse riding. There are also tennis courts, a golf course and a cafe that doubles as a takeaway chippie.

Helensville

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A smattering of heritage buildings, antique shops and cafes makes village-like Helensville a good whistle-stop for those taking SH16 north.

Activities

Parakai Springs THERMAL POOLS

(www.parakaisprings.co.nz; 150 Parkhurst Rd; adult/child $20/10; 10am-9pm) Aucklanders bring their bored children to Parakai, 2km northwest of Helensville, on wet wintry days as a cheaper alternative to Waiwera. It has large thermally heated swimming pools, private spas ($8 per hour) and a couple of hydroslides.

Woodhill Mountain
Bike Park MOUNTAIN BIKING

( 027 278 0949; www.bikepark.co.nz; Restall Rd, Woodhill; adult/child $7/2, bike hire per hr $30; 9am-5pm Thu-Tue, 10am-10pm Wed) Maintains many challenging tracks (including jumps and beams) within Woodhill Forest, 14km south of Helensville.

Tree Adventures OUTDOORS

( 0800 827 926; www.treeadventures.co.nz; Restall Rd, Woodhill; courses $16-40; 9.30am-5.30pm) A set of high-ropes courses within Woodhill Forest, consisting of swinging logs, nets, balance beams, Tarzan swings and a flying fox.

4 Track Adventures QUAD BIKES

( 09-420 8104; www.4trackadventures.co.nz; Restall Rd, Woodhill; 1½/2½/3½hr tours $155/255/295) Rattle through Woodhill Forest (and along Muriwai Beach on the longer tours) on a quad bike. Pick up from Auckland is available at $50 per person.

Information

Helensville Library (Commercial Rd; )

Visitor Information Centre ( 09-420 8060; www.helensville.co.nz; 87 Commercial Rd; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Pick up free brochures detailing the Helensville Heritage Trail and Helensville Riverside Walkway .

Getting There & Away

Bus 60 heads from Lower Albert St in Auckland (near Britomart) to Helensville ($10.30, 1½ hours).

North Auckland

The Auckland supercity sprawls 90km north of the CBD to just past the point where SH16 and SH1 converge at Wellsford. Beaches, regional parks, tramping trails, quaint ­villages, wine, kayaking and snorkelling are the main drawcards.

Long Bay Regional Park

The northernmost of Auckland’s east coast bays, Long Bay is a popular family picnic and swimming spot, attracting over a million visitors a year. A three-hour-return coastal walk heads north from the sandy beach to the Okura River, taking in secluded Grannys Bay and Pohutukawa Bay (which attracts nude bathers).

Regular buses head to Long Bay from Albert St in the city (adult/child $6.80/4, one hour). If you’re driving, leave the Northern Motorway at the Oteha Valley Rd exit, head towards Browns Bay and follow the signs.

Shakespear Regional Park

Shooting out eastward just before Orewa, the Whangaparaoa Peninsula is a heavily developed spit of land with a sizable South African expat community. At its tip is this gorgeous 376-hectare regional park, its native wildlife protected by a 1.7km pest-proof fence.

Sheep, cows, peacocks and pukeko ramble over the grassy headland, while ­pohutukawa-lined Te Haruhi Bay provides great views of the gulf islands and the city. Walking tracks take between 40 minutes and two hours, exploring native forest, WWII gun embankments, Maori sites and lookouts. If you can’t bear to leave, there’s an idyllic beachfront campsite ( 09-301 0101; www.arc.govt.nz; adult/child $13/6) with flush toilets and cold showers.

It’s possible to get here via a torturous two-hour bus trip from Albert St. The one-way fare is $10.30, so it’s best to buy a $16 Discovery day pass. An alternative is to take the 360 Discovery OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 0800 360 3472; www.360discovery.co.nz; adult/child $14/8.30) ferry service to Gulf Harbour, a Noddy-town development of matching townhouses, a marina, country club and golf course. Enquire at the ferry office about picking up a bus or taxi from here. Alternatively, walk or cycle the remaining 3km to the park. The ferry is a good option for cyclists wanting to skip the boring road trip out of Auckland; carry-on bikes are free.

Orewa

Pop 7400

Locals have fears that Orewa is turning into NZ’s equivalent of Queensland’s Gold Coast, but until they start exporting retirees and replacing them with bikini-clad parking wardens that’s unlikely to happen. It is, however, very built-up and high-rise apartment towers have begun to sprout.

Sights & Activities

Orewa Beach BEACH

Orewa’s 3km-long stretch of sand is its main drawcard. Being in the gulf, it’s sheltered from the surf but it’s still patrolled by lifeguards in the peak season.

Alice Eaves Scenic Reserve FOREST

(Old North Rd) Ten hectares of native bush with labelled trees, a pa site, a lookout and easy short walks.

Millennium Walkway WALKING

Starting from South Bridge this 8km route loops through various parks before returning along the beach; follow the blue route markers.

Snowplanet SNOW SPORTS

(www.snowplanet.co.nz; 91 Small Rd, Silverdale; day pass adult/child $66/47; 10am-10pm Sat-Thu, 10am-midnight Fri) Snowplanet offers indoor skiing, tobogganing and snowboarding throughout the year. It’s just off SH1, 8km south of Orewa.

Sleeping

Orewa Beach Top 10 HOLIDAY PARK $

( 09-426 5832; www.orewaholidaypark.co.nz; 265 Hibiscus Coast Hwy; sites $40, units $60-115; ) Taking up a large chunk of the beach’s south end, this well-kept park has excellent facilities but road noise can be a problem.

Orewa Motor Lodge MOTEL $$

( 09-426 4027; www.orewamotorlodge.co.nz; 290 Hibicus Coast Hwy; units $170-190; ) One of the motels lining Orewa’s main road, this complex has scrupulously clean wooden units prettied up with hanging flower baskets. There’s also a spa pool.

Waves APARTMENT $$$

( 09-427 0888; www.waves.co.nz; cnr Hibiscus Coast Hwy & Kohu St; units $175-299; ) Like a motel only much flasher, this complex offers spacious, self-contained apartments, and the downstairs units have gardens and spa baths. It’s only a few metres from the beach.

Eating

Asahi JAPANESE $

(6 Bakehouse Lane; mains $11-20; 9am-3pm Mon, 9am-9pm Tue-Sat) Excellent for a sushi fix, with good bento boxes ($21.50).

Casablanca TURKISH, CAFE $$

(www.casablancacafenz.co.nz; 336 Hibiscus Coast Hwy; mains $13-30; 10am-late Mon-Fri, 9am-late Sat & Sun) Turkish, North African and Mediterranean flavours feature at this buzzy cafe. Try the hearty baked Moorish eggs and you’ll be set for the next chapter of your Kiwi road trip.

Information

Orewa Information Centre ( 09-426 5338; www.orewabeach.co.nz; 40-46 Orewa Sq; 9am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat) Part of the local Citizens Advice Bureau.

Getting There & Away

Direct buses run between Orewa and Albert St in the city (adult/child $10.30/6.10, 1¼ hours), as well as Shakespear Regional Park (adult/child $1.90/1.10, 50 minutes) and Waiwera (adult/child $1.90/1.10, 10 minutes).

Waiwera

This pleasant river-mouth village has a great beach, but it’s the wai wera (hot waters) that people come here for. Warm mineral water bubbles up from 1500m below the surface to fill the 19 pools of the Waiwera Thermal Resort ( 09-427 8800; www.waiwera.co.nz; 21 Main Rd; adult/child $26/15; 9am-9pm) . There’s a movie pool, 10 big slides, barbecues, private tubs ($40) and a health spa. Luxury modern houses have also been built nearby (doubles $180); enquire about indulgence packages.

Squeezed between the Waiwera and Puhoi Rivers, the exquisite 134-hectare Wenderholm Regional Park ( 09-366 2000; www.arc.govt.nz; sites per adult/child $13/6, houses $120-145) has a diverse ecology, abundant bird life, beaches and walks (30 minutes to 2½ hours). Couldrey House (www.historicouldreyhouse.co.nz; adult/child $5/free; 1-4pm Sat & Sun, daily Jan) , the original homestead ­dating from the 1860s, is now a museum. The campsite provides only tap water and long-drop toilets, and the council also rents two comfortable self-contained houses.

Bus 895 from Auckland’s Albert St heads to Waiwera (adult/child $10.30/6.10, one hour) via Orewa.

Puhoi

Pop 450

Forget dingy cafes and earnest poets – this quaint village is a slice of the real Bohemia. In 1863 around 200 German-speaking immigrants from the present-day Czech Republic settled in what was then dense bush.

Sights & Activities

Church of Sts Peter & Paul CHURCH

(www.holyname.org.nz; Puhoi Rd) The village’s pretty Catholic church dates from 1881 and has an interesting tabernacle painting (a copy of one in Bohemia), stained glass and statues.

Bohemian Museum MUSEUM

(www.puhoihistoricalsociety.org.nz; Puhoi Rd; adult/child $3/free; 1-4pm Sat & Sun, daily Christmas-Easter) Tells the story of the hardship and perseverance of the original Bohemian pioneers.

Puhoi River Canoe Hire CANOEING

( 09-422 0891; www.puhoirivercanoes.co.nz; 84 Puhoi Rd) Hires kayaks and Canadian canoes, either by the hour (kayak/canoe $25/50) or for an excellent 8km downstream journey from the village to Wenderholm Regional Park (single/double kayak $50/100, including return transport). Bookings are essential.

Eating & Drinking

Puhoi Valley CAFE $$

(www.puhoivalley.co.nz; 275 Ahuroa Rd; mains $13-22; 10am-4pm) Renowned across NZ, Puhoi Valley cheese features heavily on the menu of this upmarket cheese shop and cafe, set blissfully alongside a lake, fountain and children’s playground. In the summer there’s music on the lawn, perfect with a gourmet ice cream.

Puhoi Hotel PUB

(www.puhoipub.co.nz; cnr Saleyards & Puhoi Rds; 10am-10pm) There’s character and then some in this 1879 pub, with walls completely covered in old photos, animal heads and vintage household goods.

Puhoi Cottage TEAHOUSE

(www.puhoicottage.co.nz; 50 Ahuroa Rd; 10am-4pm Fri-Sun) Drop in for a Devonshire cream tea ($11).

Getting There & Away

Puhoi is 1km west of SH1. The turn-off is 2km past the Johnstone Hills tunnel.

Mahurangi & Scandrett Regional Parks

Straddling the head of Mahurangi Harbour, Mahurangi Regional Park ( 09-366 2000; www.arc.govt.nz; sites from $6, baches $120-145) has three distinct fingers: Mahurangi West, accessed from a turn-off 3km north of Puhoi; Scott Point on the eastern side, with road access 16km southeast of Warkworth; and isolated Mahurangi East, which can only be reached by boat. This boater’s paradise incorporates areas of coastal forest, pa sites and a historic homestead and cemetery. Its sheltered beaches offer prime sandy spots for a dip or picnic and there are loop walks ranging from 1½ to 2½ hours. Accommodation is available in four basic campsites and four baches sleeping six to eight. Campervans can also park for $6 per person.

On the way to Mahurangi West you’ll pass Zealandia Sculpture Garden ( 09-422 0099; www.zealandiasculpturegarden.co.nz; 138 Mahurangi West Rd; admission $10; by appointment Nov-Mar) , where the work of Terry Stringer is showcased within impressive architecture and grounds.

On the ocean side of the Mahurangi Peninsula, Scandrett Regional Park ( 09-366 2000; www.arc.govt.nz; bach $145) has a sandy beach, walking tracks, patches of regenerating forest, another historic homestead, more pa sites and great views towards Kawau Island. Three baches (sleeping six to eight) are available for rent and there’s room for campervans ($6 per person).

Warkworth

Pop 3300

River-hugging Warkworth makes a pleasant pit stop, its dinky main street retaining a village atmosphere.

Sights

Dome Forest FOREST

(SH1) Two kilometres north of Warkworth, a track leads through this regenerating forest to the Dome summit (336m). On a fine day you can see the Sky Tower from a lookout near the top. The summit walk takes about 1½ hours return, or you can continue for a gruelling seven-hour one-way tramp through the Totora Peak Scenic Reserve, ­exiting on Govan Wilson Rd.

Sheepworld FARM

(www.sheepworldfarm.co.nz; SH1; adult/child $15/8, incl show $28/10; 9am-5pm) This agricultural attraction offers farm experiences for little city slickers (pony rides, lamb feeding) and the ubiquitous sheep and dog show, including a shearing demonstration (showtimes 11am and 2pm).

Warkworth & District Museum MUSEUM

(www.wwmuseum.orcon.net.nz; Tudor Collins Dr; adult/child $8/2; 9am-3pm) Pioneer-era detritus is displayed at this small local museum. Of more interest is the surrounding Parry Kauri Park, which harbours a couple of giant kauri trees, including the 800-year-old McKinney kauri (girth 7.6m).

Eating & Drinking

Chocolate Brown CAFE, SWEETS $$

(www.chocolatebrown.co.nz; 6 Mill Lane; mains $10-20; 8.30am-4pm) Decked out with quirky NZ-themed art – mostly for sale – this cafe turns out excellent coffee, robust eggy breakfasts and delicious homestyle baking. Definitely leave room for a few cacao-infused goodies from the chocolate shop next door; there are also plenty of gift packs for the folks back home.

Ransom Wines WINERY

(www.ransomwines.co.nz; Valerie Close; tasting with purchase free, otherwise donation to Tawharanui Open Sanctuary $5; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) Well signposted from SH1, about 3km south of Warkworth, Ransom produces great food wines and showcases them with good-value tasting platters (per person $20), crammed with smoked meats and local cheeses. A tasting flight of five wines is $12.

Tahi Bar CRAFT BEER

(www.tahibar.com; 1 Neville St; noon-late Wed-Sun) Tucked down a quiet laneway, Tahi features eight ever-changing taps of New ­Zealand craft beer. It’s an exceptionally friendly spot with decent platters and pub grub and a rustic and sunny deck.

Shopping

Honey Centre FOOD

(www.honeycentre.co.nz; cnr SH1 & Perry Rd; 8.30am-5pm) About 5km south of Warkworth, the Honey Centre makes a diverting pit stop, with its cafe, free honey tasting and glass-fronted hives. The shop sells all sorts of bee-related products, from candles to mead.

Information

Warkworth i-SITE ( 09-425 9081; www.warkworthnz.com; 1 Baxter St; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm Sat & Sun)

Getting There & Away

InterCity ( 09-583 5780; www.intercity.co.nz) and Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) services both pass through town, en route between Auckland and the Bay of Islands.

Matakana & Around

Around 15 years ago, Matakana was a nondescript rural village with a handful of heritage buildings and an old-fashioned country pub. Now the locals watch bemused as Auckland’s chattering classes idle away the hours in stylish wine bars and cafes. The striking Matakana Cinemas ( 09-422 9833; www.matakanacinemas.co.nz; 2 Matakana Valley Rd) complex has a domed roof reminiscent of an Ottoman bathhouse, and an excellent f armers market (www.matakanavillage.co.nz; 8am-1pm Sat) is held in its shadow.

The reason for this growth is the area’s boutique wineries, which are developing a name for pinot gris, merlot, syrah and a host of obscure variet­als. Local vineyards are detailed in the free Matakana Coast Wine Country (www.mata­kanacoast.com) and Matakana Wine Trail (www.matakanawine.com) brochures. Both are available from the Matakana Information Centre in the foyer of the cinema.

Sights & Activities

Tawharanui Regional Park BEACH

( 09-366 2000; www.arc.govt.nz; Takatu Rd) A partly unsealed road leads to this 588-­hectare reserve at the end of a peninsula. This special place is an open sanctuary for native birds, protected by a pest-proof fence, while the northern coast is a marine park (bring a snorkel). There are plenty of walking tracks (1½ to four hours) but the main attraction is Anchor Bay, one of the region’s finest white-sand beaches. Camping is allowed at two basic sites near the beach (adult/child $13/6) and there’s a six-person bach for hire ($145).

Blue Adventures WATER SPORTS

( 022 630 5705; www.blueadventures.co.nz; lessons per hour $60-75) Based in Matakana, but offering kitesurfing, paddle boarding and wakeboarding lessons, and tours from Auckland to Mangawhai. Also jetboat tours (per person $75 to $300) along the Matakana coast.

Matakana Cycle Hire BICYCLE RENTAL

( 09-423 0076; www.matakanabicyclerental.co.nz; 951 Matakana Rd; half-/full-day hire $30/40, tours from $60) Bike hire to explore local vineyards and beaches.

Omaha Beach BEACH

The nearest swimming beach to Matakana, Omaha has a long stretch of white sand, good surf and ritzy holiday homes.

Brick Bay Sculpture Trail PARK

(www.brickbaysculpture.co.nz; Arabella Lane, Snells Beach; adult/child $12/8; 10am-5pm) After taking an hour-long artistic ramble through the beautiful grounds of Brick Bay Wines, recuperate with a wine tasting at the architecturally impressive cafe.

Morris & James ARTS & CRAFTS

(www.morrisandjames.co.nz; 48 Tongue Farm Rd; 9am-5pm) Watch the potters at work during the free daily tour (11.30am) or just call in to check out the colourful finished products and the courtyard cafe.

Sleeping

Sandspit Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 09-425 8610; www.sandspitholidaypark.co.nz; 1334 Sandspit Rd; sites from $17, units $70-120; ) A camping ground masquerading as a pioneer village, this place incorporates historic buildings and faux shopfronts into its facilities. It’s right by the water at Sandspit.

Matakana Country Lodge B&B $$$

( 09-422 3553; www.matakanacountry.co.nz; 149 Anderson Rd; r $275-375; ) It’s only five minutes from Matakana by way of an unsealed road and a long driveway, but this lodge offers tranquillity in bucketloads and expansive views over the countryside. The three guest rooms have the run of the entire villa, including the kitchen, pool and spa.

Eating & Drinking

Charlie’s Gelato Garden ICE CREAM $

(www.charliesgelato.co.nz; 17 Sharp Rd; ice cream $4-6, pizza from $5; 9am-5pm, reduced hours in winter) Superb sorbet and gelato made from fresh fruit and interesting ingredients – try the liquorice or ginger beer flavours – and excellent wood-fired pizzas during summer from Friday to Sunday.

Mahurangi River
Winery & Restaurant WINERY $$$

( 09-425 0306; www.mahurangiriver.co.nz; 162 Hamilton Rd; mains $24-36, platters $25-45; 11am-4pm Thu-Mon Feb-Dec, 11am-4pm daily Jan) Expansive vineyard views partner with a relaxed ambience and savvy food at this rural spot off Sandspit Rd.

The Matakana PUB $$

(www.matakana.co.nz; 11 Matakana Valley Rd; mains $17-25; noon-late) Following a trendy makeover, Matakana’s heritage pub now features quirky decor, Matakana wines and craft beers, and decent bistro food including local Mahurangi oysters. Occasional DJs and live acts enliven the cool outdoor space.

Plume WINERY $$

( 09-422 7915; www.plumerestaurant.co.nz; 49a Sharp Rd; mains $29-40; 11am-3pm Wed-Sun, 6pm-late Fri & Sat) Plume has rural views from its terrace and an adventurous menu that jumps from China to Spain by way of Thailand and India.

Vintry WINE BAR

( 09-423 0251; www.thevintry.co.nz; 2 Matakana Valley Rd; tastings from $5; 10am-10pm) In the Matakana Cinemas complex, this wine bar serves as a one-stop cellar door for all the local producers.

Information

Matakana Information Centre ( 09-422 7433; www.matakanainfo.org.nz; 2 Matakana Valley Rd; 10am-1pm) In the foyer of the cinema complex.

Getting There & Away

Matakana village is a 10km drive northeast of Warkworth along Matakana Rd; there’s no public transport. Ferries for Kawau Island leave from Sandspit, 8km east of Warkworth along Sandspit Rd.

Leigh

Pop 390

Appealing little Leigh (www.leighbythesea.co.nz) has a picturesque harbour dotted with fishing boats, and a decent swimming beach at Matheson Bay. Long-standing Goat Island Dive & Snorkel ( 0800 348 369; www.goatislanddive.co.nz; 142a Pakiri Rd; mask, snorkel & fin hire $22, dive trips incl equipment $110-250, PADI Open Water $499) offers PADI courses and boat dive trips in the Hauraki Gulf throughout the year.

Apart from its proximity to Goat Island, the town’s other claim to fame is the legen­dary Leigh Sawmill ( 09-422 6019; www.sawmillcafe.co.nz; 142 Pakiri Rd; mains $14-35; 10am-late daily Jan–mid-Feb, 10am-3pm Mon-Wed & 10am-late Thu-Sun mid-Feb–Mar, 10am-late Thu-Sun Apr-Nov) , a spunky little pub and beer garden that’s a regular stop on the summer rock circuit, sometimes attracting surprisingly big names. If you imbibe too much at the on-site microbrewery ( 1.30-5pm Fri & Sat) , there’s accommodation inside the old sawmill shed, including basic backpacker rooms (from $25) and massive doubles with en suites (from $125). Alternatively, you can rent the Cosy Sawmill Family Cottage (from $300, sleeps 10).

Goat Island
Marine Reserve

Only 3km from Leigh, this 547-hectare aquatic area was established in 1975 as the country’s first marine reserve. In less than 40 years the sea has reverted to a giant aquarium, giving an impression of what the NZ coast must have been like before humans arrived. You only need step knee deep into the water to see snapper (the big fish with blue dots and fins), blue maomao and stripy parore swimming around. There are dive areas all round Goat Island, which sits just offshore, or you can snorkel or dive directly from the beach.

Excellent interpretive panels explain the area’s Maori significance (it was the landing place of one of the ancestral canoes) and provide pictures of the species you’re likely to encounter. Colourful sponges, forests of seaweed, boarfish, crayfish and stingrays are common sights, and if you’re very lucky you may see orcas and bottle-nosed dolphins. Visibility is claimed to be at least 10m, 75% of the time.

A glass-bottomed boat ( 09-422 6334; www.glassbottomboat.co.nz; adult/child $28/15) provides an opportunity to see the underwater life while staying dry. Trips last 45 minutes and run from the beach all year round, weather permitting; ring to check conditions and to book.

Staffed by marine experts and graduate students from the University of Auckland, the recently opened Goat Island Marine Discovery Centre ( 09-923 3645; www.goatislandmarine.co.nz; Goat Island Rd, Leigh; adult/child/family $10/5/20; 10am-4pm daily mid-Dec–March) is packed with interesting exhibitions on the ecosystem of the marine reserve, and is definitely worth visiting before venturing into Goat Island’s waters. The interactive displays and the tide pool full of marine creatures is great for children. Phone ahead for opening hours outside of mid-­December to March.

You can usually rent kayaks and snorkelling gear right from the beach. Snorkelling gear (from $9) and wetsuits (from $12) can also be hired at Seafriends ( 09-422 6212; www.seafriends.org.nz; 7 Goat Island Rd; 9am-7pm) , further up the road, which also has saltwater aquariums and a cafe.

Pakiri

Blissful Pakiri Beach, 12km past Goat Island (4km of the road is unsealed), is an unspoilt expanse of white sand and rolling surf – a large chunk of which is protected as a regional park.

Right by the water, Pakiri Beach Holiday Park ( 09-422 6199; www.pakiriholidaypark.co.nz; 261 Pakiri River Rd; sites from $50, units $80-400) has a shop and tidy units of varying degrees of luxury in a secure setting under the shade of pohutukawa.

Just 6km on from Pakiri is Pakiri Horse Riding ( 09-422 6275; www.horseride-nz.co.nz; Rahuikiri Rd) , which has more than 80 horses available for superb bush-and-beach rides, ranging from one hour ($65) to multiday ‘safaris’. Accommodation is provided in basic but spectacularly situated beachside cabins (dm/cabin $35/155) or in a comfortable four-bedroom house ($500) , secluded among the dunes.