Wellington Region
Why Go?
If your New Zealand travels thus far have been all about the great outdoors and sleepy rural towns, Wellington will blow the cobwebs away. Art-house cinemas, funky boutiques, hip bars, theatres and lashings of restaurants – all can be found in the ‘cultural capital’.
As the crossing point between the North and South Islands, travellers have long been passing through these parts. The likes of Te Papa and Zealandia now stop visitors in their tracks, and even a couple of days’ pause will reveal myriad other attractions – a windswept and interesting harbour with a walkable waterfront, hillsides clad in pretty weatherboard houses, ample inner-city surprises and some of the freshest city air on the planet.
Less than an hour away to the north, the Kapiti Coast has a slower, beachy vibe, with Kapiti Island nature reserve a highlight. An hour away over the Rimutaka Range, the Wairarapa farm plains are dotted with quiet towns and famed wineries, hemmed in by a rugged, wild coastline.
When to Go?
» The capital has its fair share of blustery, cold, grey days, but such conditions prevail only part of the time. ‘Windy Welly’ breaks out into blue skies and T-shirt temperatures at least several days a year, when you’ll hear folk exclaim ‘You can’t beat Wellington on a good day’.
» November to April are the warmer months, with average maximums hovering around 20°C. From May to August it’s colder and wetter – daily temperatures lurk around 12°C.
» The Kapiti Coast and Wairarapa are a different story – they are both warmer, less windy, with more blue-sky days.
Best Places to Eat
» Ortega Fish Shack (Click here)
» Logan Brown (Click here)
» Ombra (Click here)
» Duke Carvell’s (Click here)
» Nikau Cafe (Click here)
Best Places to Drink
» Goldings Free Dive (Click here)
» Hawthorn Lounge (Click here)
» Little Beer Quarter (Click here)
» Havana (Click here)
» Micro Wine Bar (Click here)
Wellington Region Highlights
Getting interactive at NZ’s finest
museum, Wellington’s Te
Papa (Click
here)
Scaling the lighthouse steps on
wild and remote Cape
Palliser (Click
here)
Meeting real live kiwi on a
Kapiti Island (Click
here) night-time walk
Exploring the capital’s creative
side around Cuba Street
Rambling the dunes of Queen Elizabeth Park (Click
here) near beachy Paekakariki
Riding the ratchety cable car (Click
here) from Lambton Quay to the leafy Wellington Botanic Gardens (Click
here)
Maintaining a straight line on
your bicycle as you tour the picturesque Martinborough wineries (Click
here)
Discovering hidden shortcuts to
surprising lookout points around hilly Wellington (Click
here) city
Getting There & Around
Wellington is a major transport hub,
being the North Island port for the interisland ferries.
Long-distance
KiwiRail Scenic Journeys ( 
04-495 0775, 0800 872 467; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz) trains
run from Wellington to Auckland via Palmerston North. Wellington
Airport is serviced by international and domestic airlines.
InterCity (
04-385 0520; www.intercity.co.nz) is the main
North Island bus company, travelling just about everywhere.
Approaching Wellington city from the north, you’ll pass through
either the Kapiti Coast to the west via State Hwy1 (SH1), or the
Wairarapa and Hutt Valley to the east via State Hwy2 (SH2).
Getting into and out of Wellington on
regional trains and buses is a breeze. Metlink (
0800 801 700; www.metlink.org.nz) is the
one-stop shop for regional transport services, from Wellington to
the Kapiti Coast and the Wairarapa.
ESSENTIAL WELLINGTON
Eat Yourself silly: Wellington has a gut-busting number of great cafes and restaurants; bring trousers with an elasticated waistband
Drink Coffee – espresso, AeroPress, Chemex, siphon, Swissgold, V60…you name it
Read Rousing words along Wellington’s waterfront Writers Walk
Listen to Radio New Zealand National (101.3FM, www.radionz.co.nz) – programming for the people
Watch ‘Wellington Airport Landings’ on YouTube
Festival Summer City (Click here) – free fun in the sun, in theory
Go green Wairarapa’s Pukaha Mt Bruce National Wildlife Centre is home to many species of native bird, as well as eels and tuatara
Online www.wellingtonnz.com, www.naturecoast.co.nz, www.wairarapanz.com; www.lonelyplanet.com/new-zealand/wellington
Area
code 04
Wellington
Pop 190,950 (city), 488,160 (region)
A small city with a big reputation, Wellington is most famous for being NZ’s constitutional and cultural capital. It is infamous for its weather, particularly the gale-force winds wont to barrel through, wrecking umbrellas and obliterating hairdos. It also lies on a major fault line. And negotiating the inner-city one-way system is like the Krypton Factor on acid.
But don’t be deterred, for these are mere trifles on Welly’s multilayered, jam-packed stand of sweet treats. For starters it’s lovely to look at, draped around bushy hillsides encircling a freshly whipped harbour. There are super lookouts on hilltops, golden sand on the promenade, and spectacular craggy shores along the south coast. Downtown, the city is compact and vibrant, buoyed by a decent smattering of museums, theatres, galleries and boutiques. A cocktail-, caffeine- and craft-beer-fuelled hospitality scene fizzes and pops among the throng.
History
Maori legend has it that the explorer Kupe was first to discover Wellington harbour. Wellington’s original Maori name was Te Whanganui-a-Tara (great harbour of Tara), named after the son of a chief named Whatonga who had settled on the Hawke’s Bay coast. Whatonga sent Tara and his half-brother to explore the southern part of the North Island. When they returned over a year later, their reports were so favourable that Whatonga’s followers moved there, founding the Ngati Tara tribe.
The first European settlers arrived in the New Zealand Company’s ship Aurora on 22 January 1840, not long after Colonel William Wakefield arrived to buy land from the Maori. However, Maori denied they had sold the land at Port Nicholson, or Poneke as they called it, as it was founded on hasty and illegal purchasing by the New Zealand Company. As in many parts of NZ, land rights struggles ensued, and would plague the country for years to come.
By 1850 Wellington was a thriving settlement of around 5500 people, despite a shortage of flat land. Originally the waterfront was along Lambton Quay, but reclamation of parts of the harbour began in 1852. In 1855 a significant earthquake raised many parts of Wellington, including the lower Hutt Valley and the land on which the modern Hutt Rd now runs.
MAORI NZ: WELLINGTON
In legend the mouth of Maui’s Fish, and traditionally known as Te Whanganui-a-Tara, the Wellington area became known to Maori in the mid-19th century as ‘Poneke’ (a transliteration of Port Nicholas, its European name at the time).
The major iwi (tribes) of the region were Te Ati Awa and Ngati Toa. Ngati Toa was the iwi of Te Rauparaha, who composed the now famous ‘Ka Mate’ haka. Like most urban areas the city is now home to Maori from many iwi, sometimes collectively known as Ngati Poneke.
NZ’s national museum, Te Papa (Click here), presents excellent displays on Maori culture, traditional and modern, as well as a colourful marae (meeting house). In its gift store you can see excellent carving and other crafts, as you can in both Kura (Click here) and Ora (Click here) galleries nearby.
Kapiti Island Nature Tours (Click here) offers an intimate insight into the Maori culture of the Wellington area, as does Kiwi Coastal Tours (Click here).
In 1865 the seat of government was moved from Auckland to Wellington, although it took until the turn of the century for the city to really flourish. In the early 1900s the port prospered, while producer boards and banks sprung up in its surrounds. Other industries developed, pushing urban sprawl further afield into the Hutt Valley, Porirua, and the Kapiti Coast.
In modern times, the capital remains a stronghold of the public service, despite ongoing trims. It also boasts a good quotient of technology and creative industries.
Greater Wellington
Sights
Sleeping
Drinking &
Nightlife
Sights
Museum of Wellington City & Sea MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.museumswellington.org.nz; Queens
Wharf; 
10am-5pm) 
For an imaginative, interactive
experience of Wellington’s social and salty maritime history, swing
into the Museum of Wellington. Highlights include a moving
documentary about the tragedy of the Wahine, the
interisland ferry that sank in the harbour entrance on a terrible,
blustery day back in 1968, with a loss of 51 lives. Maori legends
are also dramatically told using tiny hologram actors and special
effects. The building itself is an old Bond Store dating from
1892.
(www.citygallery.org.nz; Civic Sq,
Wakefield St; charges may apply for major exhibits;
10am-5pm)
Housed in the monumental old library
in Civic Sq, Wellington’s much-loved City Gallery does a cracking
job of securing acclaimed contemporary international exhibitions,
as well as unearthing and supporting those at the forefront of the
NZ scene. A packed events calendar and excellent Nikau Cafe
(Click
here) enhance the experience.
(www.nzafa.com; 1 Queens Wharf;
10am-5pm)
The showcase of the New Zealand
Academy of Fine Arts, Academy Galleries presents frequently
changing exhibitions by NZ artists.
New Zealand Portrait Gallery GALLERY
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.nzportraitgallery.org.nz; Shed 11,
Queens Wharf; 10.30am-4.30pm) Housed in the historic waterfront
Shed 11, this gallery presents a diverse range of NZ portraiture
from its own collection and frequently changing guest
exhibitions.
Parliament House CULTURAL BUILDING
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.parliament.nz; Bowen St;
tours on the hour
10am-4pm) The austere grey-and-cream
Parliament House was completed in 1922. Free one-hour tours depart
from the ground-floor foyer (arrive 15 minutes prior). Next door is
the 1899 neo-Gothic Parliamentary Library building, as well as the
modernist
Beehive
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP ,
designed by British architect Sir Basil Spence and built between
1969 and 1980. Controversy surrounded its construction and – love
it or loathe it – it’s the architectural symbol of the country.
Across the road are the Government Buildings
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP , the
largest wooden building in the southern hemisphere, doing a pretty
good impersonation of stone.
WELLINGTON IN ...
Two Days
To get a feel for the lie of the land, walk (or drive) up to the Mt Victoria Lookout, or ride the cable car up to the Wellington Botanic Gardens. After lunch on groovy Cuba Street, catch some Kiwi culture at Te Papa or the Museum of Wellington City & Sea. Top off the day by doing the rounds of the city’s numerous craft-beer bars.
The next day, reconstitute with coffee and a plate of sage eggs at Nikau in the City Gallery, then head to Zealandia to meet the birds and learn about NZ conservation, or encounter some other bird-brains in a tour of Parliament House. Raid Moore Wilson for cheese and wine for a picnic supper in Waitangi Park, before heading back into the night lights for some live music, or a movie at the gloriously restored Embassy Theatre.
Four Days
Shake and bake the two-day itinerary, then decorate with the following: a seal-spotting safari along wild Cape Palliser, followed by a wine tasting or two around Martinborough. The next day, head to Paekakariki for an ocean swim and ice cream before wandering through the dunes of Queen Elizabeth Park next door.
The city’s most accessible viewpoint is on the top of 196m-high Mt Victoria, east of the city centre. You can take the Roseneath bus some of the way up, but the rite of passage is to sweat it out on the walk (ask a local for directions or just follow your nose). If you’ve got your own wheels, take Oriental Pde along the waterfront and then scoot up Carlton Gore Rd. If this whets your appetite, ask a local how to get to the wind turbine or Mt Kaukau – both higher, better, blinkin’ marvellous.
Wellington Botanic Gardens
GARDENS
The hilly,
25-hectare botanic gardens can be almost effortlessly
visited via a cable-car ride (nice bit of planning, eh?), although
there are several other entrances hidden in the hillsides. They
boast a tract of original native forest along with varied
collections including a beaut rose garden and international plant
collections. Add in fountains, a cheerful playground, sculptures,
duck pond, cafe, magical city views and much more, and you’ve got a
grand outing indeed.
(www.wellingtoncablecar.co.nz;
adult/child 1 way $4/1.50, return $7/2.50;
departs every 10min, 7am-10pm Mon-Fri,
8.30am-10pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun) One of Wellington’s most
famous attractions is the little red cable car that clanks up the
steep slope from Lambton Quay to Kelburn. At the top is the
Wellington Botanic Gardens, the Carter Observatory (Click
here) and the small-but-nifty Cable Car Museum
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.museumswellington.org.nz; admission
free; 10am-5pm) , which evocatively depicts the
cable car’s story since it was built in 1902 to open up hilly
Kelburn for settlement. Take the cable car back down the hill, or
ramble down through the gardens (a 20- to 60-minute walk, depending
on your wend).
(
04-910 3140; www.carterobservatory.org; 40 Salamanca
Rd; adult/child $18.50/8; 10am-5pm, to 9.30pm Tue & Sat) At the
top of the Botanic Gardens (Click
here), the Carter Observatory features a full-dome planetarium
offering regular shows with virtual tours of the local skies; a
multimedia display of Polynesian navigation, Maori cosmology and
European explorers; and some of NZ’s finest telescopes and
astronomical artefacts. Check the website for evening stargazing
times.
DON'T MISS
Treasures of Te Papa
Te Papa
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.tepapa.govt.nz; 55 Cable St;
10am-6pm Fri-Wed, to 9pm
Thu) 
is the city’s ‘must-see’ attraction,
and for reasons well beyond the fact that it’s NZ’s national
museum. It’s highly interactive, fun and full of surprises.
Aptly, ‘Te Papa Tongarewa’ loosely translates as ‘treasure box’. The riches inside include an amazing collection of Maori artefacts and the museum’s own colourful marae (meeting house); natural history and environment exhibitions; Pacific and NZ history galleries; Nga Toi/Arts Te Papa (the national art collection, see www.arts.tepapa.govt.nz), and hands-on ‘discovery centres’ for children. Expect impressive gallery spaces and plenty of high-tech twists. Big-name, temporary exhibitions incur an admission fee, although general admission is free.
You could spend a day exploring Te Papa’s six floors but still not see it all. To cut to the chase, head to the information desk on level two and collect a map. For exhibition highlights and to get your bearings, the one-hour ‘Introducing Te Papa’ tour ($14) is a good idea; tours leave from the info desk at 10.15am, noon and 2pm daily in winter, more frequently in summer. Two cafes and two gift shops complete the Te Papa experience, one which could well take a couple of visits.
(
04-920 9200; www.visitzealandia.com; Waiapu Rd;
adult/child/family exhibition only $7.50/5/20, exhibition &
valley $17.50/9/44; 10am-5pm, last entry 4pm) This groundbreaking
ecosanctuary is tucked in the hills about 2km west of town (the
Karori bus passes nearby, or see the Zealandia website for the free
shuttle). Living wild within the fenced valley are more than 30
native bird species, including rare takahe, saddleback, hihi and
kaka, as well as tuatara and little spotted kiwi. An excellent
exhibition relays NZ’s natural history and world-renowned
conservation story. More than 30km of tracks can be explored
independently, or on regular guided tours. The night tour provides
an opportunity to spot nocturnal creatures including kiwi, frogs
and glowworms (adult/child $75/36). Cafe and shop on site.
Katherine
Mansfield
Birthplace HISTORIC BUILDING
(www.katherinemansfield.com; 25 Tinakori
Rd, Thorndon; adult/child $8/2; 10am-4pm Tue-Sun) Often compared to Chekhov
and Maupassant, Katherine Mansfield is one of NZ’s most
distinguished authors, born in 1888, and dying of tuberculosis in
1923 aged 34. This Tinakori Rd house is where she spent five years
of her childhood; it’s a lovely heritage home with exhibitions in
her honour, including a biographical film. Her short stories can be
found in one volume, The Collected Stories of Katherine
Mansfield .
(160 Wilton
Rd; dawn-dusk) About 3km west of the city is
Otari-Wilton’s Bush, the only botanic gardens in NZ specialising in
native flora. There are more than 1200 plant species here,
including some of the city’s oldest trees, as well as 11km of
walking trails and delightful picnic areas. The Wilton bus from the
city passes the gates.
Colonial Cottage Museum MUSEUM
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.museumswellington.org.nz; 66 Nairn
St, Mt Cook; adult/child $8/4; noon-4pm Sat & Sun) Open daily during
high summer, and weekends only the rest of the year, and just a
five-minute amble from the top of Cuba St, Wellington’s oldest
cottage has been carefully restored (complete with an organic
garden and chooks) to retell the stories of early settlers and life
in their era. Check the website for current tour times, usually
hourly.
(www.wellingtonzoo.com; 200 Daniell St;
adult/child $20/10; 9.30am-5pm, last entry 4.15pm) Committed to conservation and
research, with an active captive-breeding program, Wellington Zoo
is home to a menagerie of native and exotic wildlife, including
lions and tamarins. The nocturnal house has kiwi and tuatara.
‘Close encounters’ allow you to meet the big cats, red pandas,
giraffes and those cute little meerkats (for a fee). The zoo is 4km
south of the city; catch the Newtown bus.
(www.wetanz.com; cnr Camperdown Rd &
Weka St, Miramar; 9am-5.30pm) Film buffs will enjoy the Weta Cave,
a fun, mind-boggling minimuseum of the Academy Award–winning
company that brought The Lord of the Rings, King Kong,
The Adventures of Tintin and The Hobbit to life.
Learn how the company does it on the 45-minute ‘Window into
Workshop’ guided tour (starting every half-hour, $20). The Weta
Cave is 9km east of the city centre, a pleasant waterside bike ride
or 20 minutes on the Miramar bus.
New Zealand Film Archive CINEMA
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
film info line 04-499
3456; www.filmarchive.org.nz; cnr Taranaki
& Ghuznee Sts; movies $8; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, evening screenings 7pm
Wed-Sat) The Film Archive is a veritable
vortex of NZ moving images, into which you could well get sucked
for days on end. Its library holds more than 30,000 titles spanning
feature films, documentaries, short films, home movies, newsreels,
TV programs and advertisements. There are regular screenings in the
cinema ($8), as well as a viewing library (free) where you can
ferret out and watch films until you’re square-eyed. Groovy on-site
cafe.
(www.dowse.org.nz; 45 Laings Rd, Lower
Hutt; 10am-5pm; 
) Fifteen minutes’
drive or via regular buses from downtown Wellington, the Dowse is
worth visiting for its architecture alone. It’s also a friendly,
accessible art museum showcasing NZ art, craft and design, with a
nice cafe to boot.
(www.petonesettlers.org.nz; The
Esplanade, Petone; 10am-4pm Wed-Sun) On the shell-strewn Petone
foreshore, 10 minutes’ drive from downtown Wellington or reachable
by regular bus services, the art-deco Petone Settlers Museum
recalls local migration and settlement in its charming Tatou
Tatou exhibition.
City Walk
City Sculpture
Begin at Post Office
Sq, where Bill Culbert’s SkyBlues noodles into the air, then
cross Jervois Quay to pass between the New Zealand Academy of Fine
Arts and Museum of Wellington City & Sea. At the Queens Wharf
waterfront, turn south, past the big shed to the
Water Whirler, the largely
lifeless needle of experimental kineticist Len Lye that whirrs
crazily into life on the hour several times a day.
Continue along the promenade or deviate
through Frank Kitts Park, passing the graceful
Albatross Fountain. A short
detour over the flotsam City to Sea Bridge, Civic Sq is surrounded
by the i-SITE, library and City Gallery. Neil Dawson’s
Ferns hangs in the air,
attendant by a stand of nikau palms.
Back on the waterfront, continue past Te
Raukura whare waka (canoe house) and
Hikitia, the world’s oldest
working crane ship. Strip to your undies and jump off the diving
platform, or perhaps just keep on trucking along wharf, past the
bronze form of Solace in the Wind leaning over the
edge, alongside Katherine Mansfield’s breezy contribution to the
Wellington Writers Walk.
Cross the footbridge to Waitangi Park to eyeball some roller action, before heading south to Courtenay Pl via Chaffers St, and Blair St with its century-old warehouses.
On Courtenay Pl, check out the leggy form
of the industrial Tripod, before heading west. Cross
Taranaki St to Te
Aro Park with its canoe prow and trip hazards.
Turn south when you hit Cuba St, heading
up the pedestrian mall. Watch out for the sly, sloshy 
Bucket Fountain.
Change down to granny gear and wander
through doorways, all the way to the top of Cuba, into the remnant
heritage precinct cut through by the controversial inner-city
bypass. Bookend your sculpture walk with Regan Gentry’s brilliant
but ghostly 
Subject to Change, and the Tonks’ Well
alongside.
Activities
(www.fergskayaks.co.nz; Shed 6, Queens
Wharf; 9am-8pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun)
Stretch your tendons with indoor rock climbing (adult/child
$15/10), cruise the waterfront wearing in-line skates ($15 for two
hours) or go for a paddle in a kayak or on a stand-up paddleboard
(from $15 for one hour). There’s also bike hire (one hour from $15)
and guided kayaking trips.
Central Wellington
Sights
Activities, Courses &
Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Wild Winds WINDSURFING, PADDLEBOARDING
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
04-473 3458; www.wildwinds.co.nz; 36 Customhouse
Quay) With all this wind and water, Wellington was made for
windsurfing, kiteboarding, and stand-up paddleboarding. Take on one
or all three with Wild Winds; lessons start from $110 for two
hours.
Makara Peak
Mountain Bike Park MOUNTAIN BIKING
(www.makarapeak.org; South Karori Rd,
Karori; admission by donation) In the hills of Karori, 8km
west of the city centre (on the Karori bus), this excellent
200-hectare park is laced with 60km of single-track ranging from
beginner to expert. The nearby Mud
Cycles (
04-476 4961; www.mudcycles.co.nz; 421 Karori Rd,
Karori; half-day/full day/weekend bike hire from $30/45/75)
has mountain bikes for hire, and runs guided tours for riders of
all abilities. Wellington is a true MTB mecca – visit tracks.org.nz
for the evidence.
WORTH A TRIP
DAYS BAY & MATIU/SOMES ISLAND
The small Wellington Harbour Ferry ( 04-499 1282; www.eastbywest.co.nz; Queens
Wharf) plies the harbour between Queens Wharf and Days Bay
in Eastbourne, via Matiu-Somes Island, and on fine weekends Petone
and Seatoun as well.
Locals have been jumping on a boat to Days Bay for decades, where there’s a beach, a park and a cafe, and a boatshed with kayaks, row boats and bikes for hire. A 10-minute walk from Days Bay leads to Eastbourne, a beachy township with more cafes, a cute pub and numerous other diversions.
The ferry also stops at at Matiu/Somes Island in the middle of the harbour. It’s a reserved managed by the Department of Conservation (DOC), where you might see weta, tuatara, kakariki and little blue penguins, among other critters. The island is rich in history, having once been a prisoner-of-war camp and quarantine station. Take a picnic lunch, or even stay overnight in the campsite (adult/child $10/5) or in the DOC house; book online at www.doc.govt.nz or at Wellington’s DOC visitor centre (Click here).
It’s a 20- to 30-minute chug across the harbour. There are 16 sailings on weekdays, eight on Saturday and Sunday (return fare adult/child $22/12).
Tours
(www.walkwellington.org.nz; adult/child
$20/10; tours 10am daily, plus 5.30pm Mon, Wed & Fri
Nov-Mar) Informative and great-value two-hour walking tours
focusing on the city and waterfront, departing the i-SITE. Book
online, phone or just turn up.
(
04-801 9198; www.zestfoodtours.co.nz; tours from
$169) Runs three- to 5½-hour small-group foody tours; longer
tours include lunch with matched wines at the legendary Logan Brown
(Click
here).
(
0272 520 099; www.kiwicoastaltours.co.nz; 3/5hr tour
$150/225) Excellent 4WD exploration of the rugged south
coast in the company of a local Maori guide with plenty of stories
to tell.
John’s Hop On Hop Off BUS TOUR
(
0274 535 880, 0800 246
877; www.hoponhopoff.co.nz; per person
$45) Flexible two-hour scenic loop of the city with 18 stops
en route, starting at the i-SITE. Tickets are valid for 24
hours.
(
04-472 9635, 0800 775 805;
www.flatearth.co.nz; half- &
full-day tours $175-385) An array of themed small-group
tours (city highlights, Maori treasures, arts and Middle-earth
filming locations).
(
0274 193 077; www.adventuresafari.co.nz; tours from
adult/child $45/30) Half- and full-day tours with more
props, clips, and Middle-earth film locations than you can shake a
staff at.
South Coast Shuttles GUIDED TOUR
(
04-389 2161; www.southcoastshuttles.co.nz; 2½-hour
tours $55; tours 10am & 1pm) Offers tailored tours
as well as a scheduled daily two-hour city highlights tour
including the south coast and Otari Wilton’s Bush. Photographer’s
early-bird trip at 7am (two hours, $45).
(
04-471 0044, 0800 426 211;
www.wellingtonrover.co.nz; tours from
adult/child $95/50) Half- to full-day tours of the city,
seal colony and Hobbit habitat.
WELLINGTON FOR CHILDREN
Let’s cut to the chase: Welly’s biggest hit for kids is Te Papa (Click here), with the whole caboodle looking like it’s curated by a team of five-year-old geniuses. It has interactive activities galore, more creepy, weird and wonderful things than you can shake a squid at, and heaps of special events for all ages. See the dedicated Kids page on the website for proof of Te Papa’s prowess in this department.
Conveniently located either side of Te Papa are Frank Kitts Park and Waitangi Park , both with playgrounds and in close proximity to roller skates, ice cream and life-saving espresso for the grown-ups.
A ride up the cable car (Click here) and a lap around the Wellington Botanic Gardens (Click here) will get the wee ones pumped up, and when darkness descends head to the Carter Observatory (Click here) to gaze at galaxies far, far away. On a more terrestrial bent, check out some crazy animals at the Wellington Zoo (Click here) or Zealandia (Click here).
Festivals & Events
Check at the Wellington
i-SITE or visit www.wellingtonnz.com/events for
listings; ticketed events can be found and booked via Ticketek (www.ticketek.co.nz) and TicketDirect (
0800 224 224; www.ticketdirect.co.nz) .
(www.wellington.govt.nz) A summertime event bonanza – many free and outdoors including the lovely ‘Gardens Magic’ concerts – from January to March.
New Zealand
International Sevens SPORTS
(www.sevens.co.nz) The world’s top seven-a-side rugby teams compete, but it’s the crowd that plays up. Held in February; book with lightning speed.
New Zealand
International Arts Festival CULTURE
(www.festival.co.nz) A month-long biennial (even years; around mid-February to mid-March) spectacular of theatre, dance, music, visual arts and literature. International acts aplenty.
(www.fringe.org.nz) Three weeks across February and March of way-out-there experimental visual arts, music, dance and theatre.
New Zealand Comedy Festival COMEDY
(www.comedyfestival.co.nz) Three weeks of hysterics across April/May. World-famous-in-NZ comedians, and some truly world-famous ones, too.
(www.tepapa.govt.nz) Celebrating the Maori New Year (in June) with a free festival of dance, music and other events at Te Papa.
International Film Festival FILM
(www.nzff.co.nz) Two-week indie film fest screening the best of NZ and international cinema. Held over July/August.
(www.beervana.co.nz) A barrel-load of craft-beer aficionados roll into town for a weekend of supping and beard-stroking. In August.
(www.wellingtononaplate.com) Lip-smacking program of gastronomic events, and bargains aplenty at restaurants around the city. Held in August.
(www.worldofwearableart.com) A two-week run in September of the spectacular nightly extravaganza of amazing garments. Tickets are hot property.
Toast Martinborough FOOD & DRINK
(www.toastmartinborough.co.nz) A day of hedonism around the Martinborough vineyards. Tickets = hot cakes. Held in November.
Sleeping
Wellington accommodation is generally more expensive than in regional areas. Standards are reasonably high, and there are plenty of options right in or within easy walking distance of the city centre. One hassle is the lack of parking, so it will pay to ask in advance about options if you have your own wheels.
Wellington’s budget accommodation largely takes the form of multistorey hostel megaliths. There’s no ‘motel alley’ in Wellington, but motels are scattered around the city fringe. Being the hub of government and business, self-contained apartments are popular, with bargains often available at weekends.
During the peak season (December to February), or during major events, book your bed well in advance.
Campsites are as rare as bad coffee in Wellington. Tenters should head to Wellington Top 10 Holiday Park (Click here) in Seaview, or Paekakariki Holiday Park (Click here). Motorhomers, however, can enjoy the super-convenient Wellington Waterfront Motorhome Park.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
04-801 7280; www.yha.co.nz; cnr Cambridge Tce &
Wakefield St; dm $29-36, d with/without bathroom $120/88;
) Wellington’s best hostel wins
points for fantastic communal areas including two big kitchens and
dining areas, and separate rooms for games, reading and watching
movies. Sustainable initiatives (recycling, composting and
energy-efficient hot water) impress, and there’s a comprehensive
booking service at reception, along with espresso.
(
0508 666 237, 04-978 7800;
www.nomadscapital.com; 118 Wakefield St;
dm $28-36, d $95-105; ) Smack-bang in the middle of town, Nomads
has good security, spick-and-span rooms, an on-site cafe-bar (free
modest nightly meals and happy hour) and discounts for longer
stays. Kitchen and lounge spaces are short on elbow room, but slick
service, heritage features and location stop you dwelling on the
negatives.
(
0800 868 735, 04-471 3480;
www.trekglobal.net; 9 O’Reilly Ave; dm
$22-26, s $59, tw with/without bathroom $89/69; 
) A highlight of this back-lane hostel is
the funky and welcoming foyer hang-out and cosy TV lounge. The
sleeping quarters and kitchens are squeezed into rabbit-warren
corridors, but it’s relatively quiet with clean rooms and laudable
extras such as bike hire, parking ($20 per day), a women-only dorm
with a suntrap terrace, and travel booking service.
(
04-473 8482, 0800 225 725;
www.downtownbackpackers.co.nz; 1 Bunny
St; dm $28-31, s $68, d $85-95;
) Housed in a historic art-deco
hotel at the railway end of town, Downtown has tidy, bright rooms
and plenty of capacious, character-filled communal areas (be sure
to check out the carved fireplace in the bar). Budget meals in the
cafe morning and night.
(
04-385 8829; www.cambridgehotel.co.nz; 28 Cambridge
Tce; dm $25-30, with/without bathroom s $90/65, d $105/85;
) Comfortable accommodation in a heritage
hotel with a ground-floor pub. En suite rooms have Sky TV, phone
and fridge (try for a room at the back if you’re a light sleeper).
The backpacker wing has a snug kitchen-lounge, flash bathrooms and
dorms with little natural light but sky-high ceilings. Bonus $3
breakfast.
Wellington
Waterfront
Motorhome Park MOTORHOME PARK $
(www.wwmp.co.nz; 12 Waterloo Quay;
powered sites $50; ) In reality it’s simply a waterfront car
park, but it’s nonetheless unbelievably convenient, offering
overnight stays, and modest hourly rates for dayparking. Facilities
comprise a sharp ablution block and power supply. Book online.
(
04-233 2010; www.moanalodge.co.nz; 49 Moana Rd,
Plimmerton; dm $34, d with shared bathroom $86-96; ) Just off SH1 and
only a 30-minute train ride or drive from Wellington (25km), this
exceptional waterfront backpackers offers sea views and relaxation
within easy reach of the city. The lovely old house is immaculate
and inviting, and your friendly host will happily direct you to
local sights.
Wellington Top
10
Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
(
0800 948 686, 04-568 5913;
www.wellingtontop10.co.nz; 95 Hutt Park
Rd, Seaview; sites $45, cabins $60-100, motels $115-170;
) This park, 13km northeast of Wellington,
is convenient for the ferry. Family-friendly facilities include
communal kitchens, games room, jumping pillow and a playground, but
its industrial location detracts. Follow the signs off SH2 for
Petone and Seaview, or take regular public transport.
Comfort & Quality Hotels HOTEL $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
0800 873 553, 04-385 2156;
www.hotelwellington.co.nz; 223 Cuba St;
d $104-200; 
) In the heart of
Cuba St, the CQ has two wings: the sympathetically renovated
historic ‘Trekkers’ building with smaller, cheaper rooms (Comfort);
and the snazzier high-rise ‘Quality’ which adjoins five fully
self-contained apartments. Shared facilities include an in-house
bar and restaurant (mains $14 to $35), and parking ($25 per
day).
(
04-384 2714; www.booklovers.co.nz; 123 Pirie St; s/d
from $150/180;
) Author Jane Tolerton’s
gracious, book-filled B&B has three queen en suite guest rooms
(one with an extra single bed). A bus service runs past the front
gate to Courtenay Pl and the train station, and the city’s ‘green
belt’ begins right next door. Free wi-fi and parking.
Capital View Motor Inn MOTEL $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
04-385 0515, 0800 438 505;
www.capitalview.co.nz; 12 Thompson St; d
$125-240; ) Many of the rooms in this
well-maintained, multistorey building close to Cuba St do indeed
enjoy capital views – especially the large, good-value penthouse
(sleeps five). All are self-contained and spruce, and there’s free
parking.
(
04-385 710, 0800 282 8502;
www.victoriacourt.co.nz; 201 Victoria
St; d $149-205; ) This central city option continues to
deliver satisfaction in the inner city through its spacious studios
and apartments with kitchenettes, quality joinery and soft
furnishings, and recently refreshed bathrooms. There are two
disabled-access units; larger units sleep up to six. Free on-site
guest parking.
(
04-385 1849, 0800 361 645;
www.apollolodge.co.nz; 49 Majoribanks
St; d $140-160, q $190-240; ) Within staggering distance of Courtenay
Pl, Apollo Lodge is a loose collation of 35 varied units (one and
two bedrooms), ranging from studios to family-friendly units with
full kitchen. Nearby apartments available for longer-term
stays.
(
021 073 9232; www.citybedandbreakfast.co.nz; Tonks Gr;
d/q $170/200) These two tiny 1880 cottages sit among a
precious precinct of historic Cuba St buildings. Clever conversion
has transformed them into all-mod-con, self-contained one-bedroom
pads, comfortable for two but sleeping up to four thanks to a sofa
bed. Stylish, convenient and veerrrry Cuba. Road noise may be an
issue.
CityLife Wellington APARTMENT $$$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
04-922 2800, 0800 368 888;
www.heritagehotels.co.nz; 300 Lambton
Quay; d from $189;
) Luxurious serviced apartments
in the city centre, ranging from studios to three-bedroom
arrangements, some with full kitchen and in-room laundry
facilities, and some with a harbour glimpse. Weekend rates are
great bang for your buck. The vehicle entrance is from Gilmer Tce,
off Boulcott St (parking $15.50 per day).
(
04-803 0600; www.ohtel.com; 66 Oriental Parade; d
$295-425; ) Enjoy a slice of beautiful life at this
bijou hotel on Oriental Pde. Individually decorated rooms and
suites feature stylish furniture and contemporary artwork and
ceramics, avidly collected by the architect-owner. Mix yourself a
cocktail, then take a soak in the luxurious bathtubs.
(
04-802 8900, 0800 994 335;
www.museumhotel.co.nz; 90 Cable St; r
& apt Mon-Thu $209-399, Fri-Sun $189-349; ) Formerly known as ‘Museum Hotel de
Wheels’ (to make way for Te Papa, it was rolled here from its
original location 120m away), this art-filled hotel keeps the
quirk-factor high. Bright-eyed staff, a very good restaurant with
flamboyant decor, and groovy tunes piped into the lobby make a
refreshing change from homogenised business hotels. Tasty weekend
and weekly rates.
(
04-472 9966, 0800 996 622;
www.boltonhotel.co.nz; cnr Bolton &
Mowbray Sts; d $189-359; ) Slick and well serviced, the
lofty Bolton deserves its five stars. Room options are varied but
share a common theme of muted tones, fine linens and colourful
artwork. Most are spacious with full kitchen facilities and some
enjoy park or city views. Warm your cockles in the heated pool, spa
and sauna.
Eating
Wellington offers exciting dining, with a bewildering array of options packed into the city centre (and plenty of fabulous options in the suburbs). Varied, contemporary cafes and upmarket restaurants are complemented by a broad range of budget options including oodles of noodle houses, with stiff competition keeping standards high and prices keen across the board.
Three excellent inner-city food markets run
from dawn till around 2pm on Sundays – the seriously fruit-and-veg
Farmers Market
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(cnr Victoria & Vivian Sts)
, and the more varied Harbourside Market
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(Wakefield St) next to Te Papa,
where you’ll also find artisan producers seducing foodies with
their wares in the City Market
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(Chaffers Dock Bldg, 1 Herd St;
8.30am-12.30pm Sun)
.
Moore Wilson Fresh SUPERMARKET $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.moorewilson.co.nz; cnr College &
Tory Sts; 7.30am-6pm) A call-out to self-caterers:
this positively swoon-inducing grocer is one of NZ’s most committed
supporters of independently produced and artisanal produce. If you
want to sample the best of Wellington and NZ, here’s your
chance.
(www.gelissimo.co.nz; 11 Cable St,
Taranaki Wharf; gelato $4-8; 8am-5.30pm) The hottest thing in coldness
is the gelato and sorbet made by Graham, who grew up in a
fruiterer’s shop and sure knows his apples (and raspberries, and
chocolate…). Outpost along Oriental Bay.
(www.pandoro.co.nz; 2 Allen St; items
$3-8; 7am-5pm; 
) This excellent Italian bakery serves
inexpensive deliciousness (cakes, pastries and various savoury,
bready, scrolly, rolly things) along with smooth coffee in sit-down
surrounds. Another outlet at 14 Woodward St.
(Oaks Complex,
Dixon St; mains $8-13; 10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Among a troupe of
great Malaysian places, teeny tiny Little Penang steals the show
with its fresh-flavoured, often-fiery street food. Pick a yummy
curry for your nasi lemak, traditionally accompanied with
the eggy, nutty, saucy stuff, or go for the bargain eight-buck
nasi goreng . Then go back for yummy curry puffs. Aim to
avoid the lunchtime rush.
(167 Cuba St;
meals $10-19; 11.30am-9.30pm; ) The lightest and healthiest of Welly’s
noodle houses is Aunty Mena’s, a cheery cafe cranking out tasty
vegie/vegan Malaysian and Chinese dishes to a diverse clientele.
Easy-clean, over-lit interior.
(10 Kent Tce;
meals $8-16; 11.30am-9.30pm; ) Authentic falafel, shish and
shawarma (kebab) served up by cheery Lebanese owners. The
best kebabs in town, although its sister ship, Phoenician Cuisine
at 245 Cuba St, comes a very close second.
Mt Vic Chippery FISH & CHIPS $
(www.mtvicchippery.co.nz; 5 Majoribanks
St; meals $8-16; noon-9pm Wed-Sun, 4-9pm Mon & Tue)
Flash fish and chips by numbers. 1. Choose your fish (at least
three varieties). 2. Choose your coating (beer batter, panko crumb,
tempura…). 3. Choose your chips (five varieties!). 4. Add aioli,
coleslaw, salad or sauce, and a quality soft drink. 5. Chow down
inside or take away. Burgers and battered sausages will placate the
piscophobes.
(www.havana.co.nz; 163 Tory St; snacks
$4-7; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Hitched on to the
Havana headquarters and roastery, this fantastical ‘First Class’
coffee lounge offers a step back and forwards in time with its
invented history and modern attitude towards quality service with
speed. Nibbles are limited to the likes of scones and pies from the
warmer.
(www.fidelscafe.com; 234 Cuba St; snacks
$4-7, mains $10-24; 7.30am-10pm; ) A Cuba St institution for
caffeine-craving, alternative types. Eggs any-which-way, pizza and
splendid salads are cranked out of the itsy kitchen, along with
Welly’s best milkshakes. Revolutionary memorabilia adorns the walls
of the funky interior; decent outdoor areas too. A superbusy crew
copes with the chaos admirably.
(276 Cuba St;
snacks $4-9; 9am-5pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun)
Run by the Ladies McLeod, whose roots lie in this neighbourhood,
this tearoom commemorates their heritage in delicious style. Martha
proffers finger sandwiches, delicate tarts, and tea in fine bone
china, while across the road, Arthur’s
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP (272 Cuba St; mains $17-24;
10am-late Wed-Sat) wears plaid
and dishes up a manly fry-up, roasts and pork crackling snacks.
Sweet Mother’s Kitchen AMERICAN $
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.sweetmotherskitchen.co.nz; 5
Courtenay Pl; mains $10-27; 8am-10pm Sun-Thu, to late Fri & Sat;
) Perpetually brimming
with cool cats, Sweet Mother’s serves dubious but darn tasty takes
on the Deep South, such as burritos, nachos, po’ boys, jambalaya
and key lime pie. It’s cheap, cute, has craft beer and good
sun.
(
04-381 2929; www.pizzapomodoro.co.nz; 13 Leeds St;
pizzas $13-24; noon-2pm Wed-Fri, 5-9pm Mon-Sat;
) Pomodoro’s Massimo is so
serious about his wood-fired pizza he’s a member of the
Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, founded to protect and
promote real pizza. Take away or dine in the microspace, or eat
Welly’s best pizza at Goldings Free Dive (Click
here) with a cold beer in hand. Yes, please.
(www.pre-fab.co.nz; 14 Jessie St;
breakfast $5-18, lunch $14-20; 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) A big,
industrial-minimalist space houses the city’s slickest espresso bar
and roastery, owned by folks who started the capital’s coffee ball
rolling. Beautiful house-baked bread features on a menu of
flavourful and well-executed offerings such as smoked fish,
asparagus and poached egg for brekkie, or pork belly with rocket,
apple and fennel salad for lunch. Sunny terrace.
(www.nikaucafe.co.nz; City Gallery, Civic
Sq; lunch $14-25; 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat;
) An airy affair at the
sophisticated end of the cafe scene, Nikau consistently dishes up
some of the simplest but most delightful fare in town. Refreshing
aperitifs, legendary kedgeree and sage eggs, divine sweets and
sunny courtyard.
(99 Victoria St;
dishes $4-27; 11.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sat, 6-10pm Wed-Sat) A
compact, Zen-like space reassuringly dominated by an open kitchen
from which authentic Japanese dishes emerge, such as superfresh
sashimi, homemade agedashi tofu, chazuke soup,
sunomono (dressed salad) and moreish Karaage chicken.
Tatsushi is the real deal. Sushi and bento boxes to takeaway.
(www.chow.co.nz; 45 Tory St; dishes
$7-24; noon-midnight;
) Well-oiled Chow is a stylish
pan-Asian restaurant-cum-bar, popular with folk with a penchant for
zingy food in sociable surroundings, and creative cocktails. Daily
deals, free wi-fi, and the fun Library bar (Click
here) through the back door.
(www.scopa.co.nz; cnr Cuba & Ghuznee
Sts; mains $16-26; 8am-late Mon-Fri, 9am-late Sat & Sun;
) Authentic pizza, pasta
and gnocchi make dining at this modern cucina a pleasure.
The bianche (white) pizzas make a refreshing change as do
the pizzaiolo (pizzas of the week). Watch the groovy
‘Cubans’ from a seat in the window. Lunchtime specials; sexy
evenings complete with cocktails.
(www.ombra.co.nz; 199 Cuba St; snacks
& small plates $4-18; 10am-late; ) This Venetian-style bacaro
(taverna) dishes up mouth-watering Italian fare in a lively, warm
atmosphere. Admire the on-trend distressed interior while sipping
an aperitif then share tasty morsels like arancino (fried
risotto ball), pizzette (minipizza) and meatballs. Round
things off with a classic dessert such as tiramisu or saffron and
honey pannacotta. Delizioso!
(www.capitolrestaurant.co.nz; cnr Kent
Tce & Majoribanks St; mains $22-36;
noon-2.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm)
This consistent culinary star serves simple, seasonal fare using
premium local ingredients, carefully prepared with a nod to the
classic Italian style. Try the parmesan-crusted lamb’s liver. The
dining room is a bit cramped and noisy, but elegant nonetheless,
and who’s going to gripe when presented with such fine cuisine?
It’s well worth a wait at the wee bar (no dinner bookings).
(www.greatindia.co.nz; 141 Manners St;
mains $15-32; lunch & dinner; ) This is not your average curry house.
While a tad more expensive than its competitors, this place
consistently earns its moniker with distinctly flavoured curry and
other high-quality specialities. Opt for the rice and bread
selection if asked.
(
04-384 6656; 7 Courtenay
Pl; yum cha around $20) Yum cha is popular in Wellington,
with many Chinese restaurants clustered around Courtenay Pl packing
in the punters for their weekend ritual. The Regal pleases with
speed, volume and quality, and excellence in the departments of
prawn steamed dumplings, barbecue pork buns, Peking duck and
coconut buns. Booking advised.
Duke Carvell’s MEDITERRANEAN $$$
(
04-385 2240; www.dukecarvell.co.nz; 6 Swan Lane;
small plates $9-19, large plates $38-80;
noon-late Mon-Fri, 9am-late Sat &
Sun) Join the handsome Duke for an indulgent culinary romp
of the Mediterranean, swinging through shared plates such as
house-made charcuterie, paella, chocolate mousse and noble cheeses.
Heirloom artwork adorns the walls while low-cut chandeliers cast a
sultry light on proceedings. Spectacular-value three-course lunch
($35 including a glass of wine).
(
04-382 9559; www.ortega.co.nz; 16 Marjoribanks St;
mains $32-39; 5.30-10pm Tue-Sat) Fishing floats, salty
portraits and Egyptian floor tiles set a colourful Mediterranean
scene, a good hook on which to hang a seafood dinner. Fish comes
many ways (roasted with Malaysian gravy, sashimi with lime
dressing) while the afters head straight for France courtesy of
orange crêpes and one of Welly’s best cheeseboards. Excellent food
in a relaxed yet upbeat environment.
Boulcott Street Bistro BISTRO $$$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
04-499 4199; www.boulcottstreetbistro.co.nz; 99
Boulcott St; lunch mains $25-39, dinner mains $33-39;
noon-3pm & 6pm-late
Mon-Fri, 5.30pm-late Sat & Sun) Savour classic bistro
fare ministered by the inimitable Rex Morgan, within a precious
heritage cottage secreted in high-rise surrounds. With no evening
bookings, you may be forced to wait with a flute of fizz or glass
of craft beer in the convivial bar. It’ll be tough. Top-value
two-course Sunday roasts ($45) and lunchtime specials ($20).
(www.charleynoble.co.nz; Post Office Sq; starters & small plates $5-18, mains $22-40) Paul Hoather, chef-owner of the lauded and long-standing White House fine-dining restaurant, loosens up at this grand establishment in a newly renovated heritage building. Raw oysters and wood-fired meats follow fashion in ravishing style, but it’s creative dishes such as pig’s tail and pomegranate salad, and grilled octopus with crispy capers that really set this hot ticket alight.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
04-801 5114; www.loganbrown.co.nz; 192 Cuba St; mains
$45-51; noon-2pm Mon-Sat, 5.30pm-late Mon-Sun;
) Routinely and
deservedly touted as Wellington’s best restaurant, Logan Brown
oozes class without being pretentious or overly formal. Its 1920s
banking chamber dining room is a stunner, as is the menu, which
features such treats as Waikanae crab cakes and venison loin with
goat’s curd and cherry. The three-course bistro menu ($45) is an
excellent and affordable way into Wellington’s finest dining
experience, although the epic wine list might force a blow-out.
Bookings recommended.
Drinking & Nightlife
Wellingtonians love a late night, and it’s common to see the masses heading into town at a time when normal folk would be boiling the kettle for cocoa. A lively music scene keeps things humming, along with respectable bar food, competitive cocktail concoctions, great NZ wines and tasty beer.
In fact the beer scene is where the action is,
with Welly now a veritable whirlpool of crafty bars circled by a
batch of local breweries. Put yourself in the pitcher at boho Aro’s
Garage Project
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP (www.garageproject.co.nz; 68 Aro
Street; noon-8pm Tue-Sat) microbrewery or fill a
flagon at the bamboozling Regional Wines & Spirits
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP (www.regionalwines.co.nz; 15 Ellice
St; 9am-10pm Mon-Sat, 11am-7.30pm Sun) . See
www.craftbeercapital.com for more
propaganda.
The inner city is riddled with bars, with high concentrations around Courtenay Pl (short skirts, sexy shoes, and hair-raising hijinks); and Cuba/Victoria Sts (colourful and groovy with personality in spades). A short pub crawl can also be had along the waterfront.
Wellington’s music scene predominates in pint-sized venues, most often in the corner of a bar. Big-gig listings can be found at www.undertheradar.co.nz and www.eventfinder.co.nz; look out for others as you walk the streets, or investigate venue websites and Facebook pages.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.goldingsfreedive.co.nz; 14 Leeds
St; noon-11pm; ) Hidden down an up-swinging back alley
near Cuba St, gloriously garish Goldings is a bijoux craft-beer bar
with far too many merits to mention, although we’ll single out
ex-casino swivel chairs, a nice wine list, a ravishing Reuben
sandwich plus pizza from Pomodoro, next door. Plastic fantastic
gewgaws add colourful buckets of battiness.
(www.hashigozake.co.nz; 25 Taranaki
St; noon-midnight; ) This brick-walled bunker bar serves as
the headquarters of a zealous importation business splicing a
stimulating mix of big-flavoured international brewstars into a
smartly selected NZ range. Ogling the oft-changing taps and
brimming fridges is a wide range of hopheads, happy to stand elbow
to elbow around the bar or squeeze into the acoustically sweet
side-lounge on nano-gig nights (every Saturday at 10pm).
(www.themalthouse.co.nz; 48 Courtenay
Pl; 3pm-late Mon & Tue, noon-1am Wed-Sun)
At last count there were nearly 200 reasons to drink at this, the
capital’s original craft-beer bar – still boasting a high beer-geek
quotient, and now housed in a low-key concrete box with leaners,
comfy corner lounge, and popular alfresco area where you can watch
the world go by. Check the blackboard for new brews, or ask savvy
staff to serve something to suit your mood.
Little Beer Quarter
CRAFT BEER
(www.littlebeerquarter.co.nz; 6 Edward St; 4pm-late Mon, noon-late Tue-Sat) Tucked away in a back lane, lovely LBQ is a lively bar handled with a lady’s touch. It’s warm, inviting, and soft in all the right places, but still packs a hop-headed punch with its well-curated taps and bottled selection. Good cocktails, wines and whiskies, too, plus tasty bar food along the lines of pizza and pork scratchings. Bargain specials Monday to Thursday.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.rogueandvagabond.co.nz; 18 Garrett St) Right in the heart of Cuba fronting on to a precious pocket park, the Rogue is a lovably scruffy, colourful, kaleidoscopic craft-beer bar with heaps going on: 18 taps; voluminous, chewy-crust pizza ($15 to $22); regular, rockin’ gigs; and sifting about on the patio or slouching around on the lawn.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.thecross.co.nz; 39 Abel Smith
St; 8am-late) Welcoming to all – from frenetic
five-year-olds to Nana with her knitting – the fun, easygoing Cross
rambles around a series of colourful rooms, combining a respectable
restaurant, lively bar, dance floor, pool table and the best garden
bar in town. There’s interesting beer on tap, food to suit all
budgets, and regular events including bingo, gigs and quiz
night.
(www.laundry.net.nz; 240 Cuba St;
10am-late Wed-Sun,
4pm-late Tue) Tumble into this junk-shop juke joint any time
of the day or night for a tipple and a taco, and hang out with the
hipsters in a wrinkle-free zone. Carousal is encouraged with
regular gigs and deejays, lip-smacking libations and colourful,
carnivalesque decor pasted up with a very rough brush.
Trailer-trash backyard complete with a caravan.
(www.mollymalones.co.nz; cnr Courtenay Pl
& Taranaki St; 11am-1am Sun-Thu, to 3am Fri & Sat)
This highly polished Irish bar hosts live music nearly every night,
and dishes up well-priced pub grub and a balcony overlooking the
bustle. If the craic downstairs is too much for you, head
up to the piano bar for a quiet dram.
(www.havanabar.co.nz; 32 Wigan St;
11.30am-late Mon-Fri,
3pm-late Sat) Go out of your way to find Havana, a mighty
fine needle in Welly’s hospitality haystack, hidden down a
sidestreet and squeezed into two adjacent heritage cottages sharing
a groovy backyard. Fortify yourself with tapas and top shelf, then
chinwag, smoke or flirt, or all three, then break out your sexy
legs in the microdisco.
(www.vivowinebar.com; 19 Edward
St; 3pm-late Mon-Fri, 5pm-late Sat) If your
idea of a good time is fine wine, tapas and conversation, head to
Vivo. Match wines off an epic list with any of 30 delectable small
plates, and relax in the brick-lined and timbered, cellarlike
dining room. This is one of the city’s real hidden gems – dark and
twinkly, sensual and delicious.
(www.hawthornlounge.co.nz; 82 Tory
St; 6pm-late Tue-Sat) This classy cocktail bar
has a 1920s speakeasy feel, suited up in waistcoats and
wide-brimmed fedoras. Sip a drink and play poker, or simply enjoy
the behind-the-bar theatrics from the Hawthorn’s serious
mixologists twisting and turning classics into modern-day
masterpieces. Kiss me, tease me, spoil me wines.
(www.thelibrary.co.nz; 53 Courtenay
Pl; 5pm-late) You’ll find yourself in the right
kind of bind at the book-filled Library, with its velveteen booths,
board games and best-selling cocktails. An excellent all-round
drink selection is complemented by a highly sharable menu of sweet
and savoury treats including chocolate fondant and cheese. Live
music on occasion.
(www.matterhorn.co.nz; 106 Cuba
St; 3pm-late) An early riser in Welly’s
21st-century bar scene, the ’Horn still hovers around the top with
its reputable food (tapas from mid-arvo, dinner daily, brunch
weekends), snappy service and regular live music. The sultry,
designerly style for which it is famous is now slightly faded and
dated, but this matters little in the dimmed light of its
bewitching hours.
Entertainment
Wellington is home to a long-standing professional theatre, Circa, whose busy program is augmented by plenty of amateur companies and fringe performers, student shows and regular visiting tours. Peruse listings at www.eventfinder.co.nz. Many events are ticketed via Ticketek (www.ticketek.co.nz) box offices, located at St James Theatre OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (77 Courtenay Pl) and the Michael Fowler Centre OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP (111 Wakefield St) , as well as TicketDirect (www.ticketdirect.co.nz) . Discount same-day tickets for some productions are often available at the i-SITE.
Wellywood has simply too many good indy cinemas to list, so here are a few inner-city picks. Movie times are listed in the daily Dominion Post and at www.flicks.co.nz.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
04-801 7992; www.circa.co.nz; 1 Taranaki St;
Tue-Sun) Waterfront
Circa houses two auditoriums in which it shows everything from
edgy new works to Christmas panto. Standby tickets available an
hour before the show.
(
04-802 4175; www.bats.co.nz; 1 Kent Tce)
Wildly alternative but accessible BATS presents cutting-edge and
experimental NZ theatre – varied, cheap and intimate – in its
freshly revamped theatre.
(
04-385-3337; www.lighthousecuba.co.nz; 29 Wigan St;
adult/child $17.50/12.50) Tucked away near the top end of
Cuba St, this small, stylish and modern cinema screens a wide range
of mainstream, art-house and foreign films in three small theatres.
High-quality snacks.
(
04-384 7657; www.eventcinemas.co.nz; 10 Kent Tce;
adult/child from $18.50/13.50) Wellywood’s cinema mothership
is an art-deco darling, built in the 1920s. Today she screens
mainly mainstream films with state-of-the-art sound and vision.
Bars and cafe on site.
(
04-384 4080; www.paramount.co.nz; 25 Courtenay Pl;
adult/child $15.90/10.50; noon-midnight) A lovely old complex
screening largely art-house, documentary and foreign flicks.
(www.welovemeow.co.nz; 9 Edward
St; 4.30pm-late Mon, 10am-late Tue-Sun) Truly
the cat’s pyjamas, Meow goes out on a limb to host a diverse range
of gigs and other performances, at the same time offering
good-quality, inexpensive food at almost any time of day. There are
treats for the sweet tooth, and a good selection of keenly priced
craft beers. Mishmashed retro decor gives the place a speakeasy
feel.
(www.sanfran.co.nz; 171 Cuba St;
noon-late) This
much-loved, midsized music venue is moving to a new beat, having
boarded the craft-beer bandwagon and rockin’ out smoky, meaty food
along the way. Gigs still rule, dancing is de rigueur and the
balcony still gets good afternoon sun.
(www.bodega.co.nz; 101 Ghuznee St;
4pm-late) A
trailblazer of the city’s modern live-music scene, the good-old
Bodge’ has demonstrated admirable endurance, hosting a regular and
varied program of gigs – including frequent international acts – in
a pleasant space with solid acoustics and a respectable dance
floor.
WELCOME TO WELLYWOOD
In recent years Wellington has stamped its place firmly on the world map as the home of NZ’s dynamic film industry, earning itself the nickname ‘Wellywood’. Acclaimed director Peter Jackson still calls Wellington home; the success of his The Lord of the Rings films and subsequent productions such as King Kong, The Adventures of Tintin and The Hobbit have made him a powerful Hollywood player, and have bolstered Wellington’s reputation.
Canadian director James Cameron is now in on the action, with three Avatar sequels set to be shot in New Zealand. Cameron and his family are New Zealand residents, with landholding in rural Wairarapa.
Movie buffs can experience some local movie magic by visiting minimuseum the Weta Cave (Click here), or one of many film locations around the region – a speciality of local guided-tour companies.
Shopping
Wellington supports a high number of independent shops including scores of design stores and clothing boutiques. There’s still plenty that’s Kiwi-made – despite cheap imports and online shopping – with retailers flying their home-grown flags with pride.
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.unitybooks.co.nz; 57 Willis
St; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 11am-5pm
Sun) Setting the standard for every bookshop in the land.
Dedicated NZ table piled high.
(www.thevaultnz.com; 2 Plimmer
Steps; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-7pm Fri, 10am-5pm
Sat, 11am-4.30pm Sun) Jewellery, clothing, bags, ceramics,
cosmetics – a bonny store with lots of NZ-made, beautiful
things.
(www.kuragallery.co.nz; 19 Allen
St; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun)
Contemporary indigenous art: painting, ceramics, jewellery and
sculpture.
Ora Design Gallery ARTS & CRAFTS
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(23 Allen
St; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun)
Fresh, bold, bright contempoary art including sculpture, weaving
and jewellery.
(www.mandatory.co.nz; 108 Cuba
Mall; 10am-6pm Mon-Thu, 10am-7pm Fri, 10am-4.30pm Sat,
noon-4pm Sun) Great service and sharp men’s tailoring for
the capital’s cool cats.
(134 Cuba
St; 10am-6pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun)
Off-the-rack and vintage clothing (punk, skate and mod), plus shoes
and accessories. Best-dressed window in NZ.
Bivouac Outdoor OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.bivouac.co.nz; 39 Mercer St;
9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri,
10am-5pm Sat & Sun) The best of several outdoor shops,
staffed by people who know because they go.
Old Bank Shopping Arcade SHOPPING CENTRE
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(www.oldbank.co.nz; cnr Lambton Quay
& Willis St; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 11am-3pm
Sun) This dear old building is home to indulgent boutiques,
predominantly clothing.
Kirkcaldie & Stains DEPARTMENT STORE
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(165-177 Lambton
Quay; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun)
NZ’s answer to Bloomingdale’s or Harrods, established in 1863.
Bring your travel documents with you for tax-free bargains.
Information
Internet Access
Free wi-fi is available in most of the CBD (see www.cbdfree.co.nz); the i-SITE also has internet access.
Medical Services
Wellington Accident
& Urgent Medical Centre ( 04-384 4944; www.wamc.co.nz; 17 Adelaide Rd,
Newtown; 8am-11pm) No appointment necessary; also
home to the after-hours pharmacy. It’s close to the Basin Reserve
around the northern end of Adelaide Rd.
Wellington
Hospital (
04-385 5999; www.ccdhb.org.nz; Riddiford St,
Newtown; 24hr) One kilometre south of the city
centre.
Post
Post Office
(2 Manners St;
8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pm
Sat) This branch has the longest opening hours of all city
branches.
Tourist Information
DOC Wellington Visitor
Centre (
04-384 7770; www.doc.govt.nz; 18 Manners St;
9.30am-5pm Mon-Fri,
10am-3.30pm Sat) Bookings, passes and information for local
and national walks (including Great Walks), parks, huts and
camping.
Wellington
i-SITE (
04-802 4860; www.wellingtonnz.com; Civic Sq, cnr
Wakefield & Victoria Sts; 8.30am-5pm) Staff book almost everything,
and cheerfully distribute Wellington’s Official Visitor
Guide, along with other maps and helpful pamphlets. Internet
access and cafe.
Useful Websites
Best of Wellington (www.bestofwellington.co.nz) Entertaining, long-standing independent guidebook aimed at longer-staying visitors.
Stuff (www.stuff.co.nz) Online news service incorporating Wellington’s newspaper, the Dominion Post .
Getting There & Away
Air
Wellington is an international gateway
to NZ.
Wellington Airport (WLG; 04-385 5100; www.wellingtonairport.co.nz; Stewart
Duff Dr, Rongotai; 4am-1.30am) has touch-screen information
kiosks in the luggage hall. There’s also currency exchange, ATMs,
car-rental desks, shops and, of course, spectacular espresso. If
you’re in transit or have an early flight, you can’t linger
overnight inside the terminal.
Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) Offers
flights between Wellington and most domestic centres, including
Auckland, Nelson, Christchurch, Dunedin and Queenstown. It also
flies direct to Sydney, Melbourne and Brisbane.
Jetstar (
0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) Offers
economical flights from Wellington to Auckland and Christchurch,
but takes no prisoners when it comes to late check-in. It also
flies direct to Sydney and Melbourne.
Qantas (
0800 808 767; www.qantas.com.au) Flies direct
between Wellington and Sydney and Melbourne.
Soundsair (
03-520 3080, 0800 505 005;
www.soundsair.com) Flies between
Wellington and Picton up to eight times daily (from $95), Nelson
(from $113) and Blenheim (from $95).
For human assistance,
try the helpful folks at Flight Centre (www.flightcentre.co.nz; cnr Willis &
Manners Sts; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat) .
Boat
On a clear day, sailing into Wellington Harbour or through the Marlborough Sounds is magical. Cook Strait can cut up rough, but the big ferries handle it well, and sport lounges, cafes, bars, information desks and cinemas but no pool tables. There are two options for crossing the strait between Wellington and Picton: Bluebridge and the Interislander.
Booking online is the cheapest option, but folks at the i-SITE and hotels will happily book for you. Bluebridge is based at Waterloo Quay, opposite the Wellington train station. The Interislander terminal is about 2km northeast of the city centre; a shuttle bus ($2) runs to the Interislander from platform 9 at Wellington train station (where long-distance buses also depart). It also meets arriving ferries, returning passengers to platform 9. There’s also a taxi stand at the terminal.
Car-hire companies allow you to pick up/drop off vehicles at ferry terminals. If you arrive outside business hours, arrangements can be made to collect your vehicle from the terminal car park.
Bluebridge
Ferries (
04-471 6188, 0800 844 844; www.bluebridge.co.nz; 50 Waterloo
Quay) Crossing takes 3½ hours; up to four sailings in each
direction daily. Cars and campervans from $118; motorbikes $51;
bicycles $10. Passenger fares from adult/child $51/26.
Interislander
( 0800 802 802, 04-498 3302; www.interislander.co.nz; Aotea
Quay) Crossing takes three hours 10 minutes; up to five
sailings in each direction daily. Cars are priced from $118;
campervans (up to 5.5m) from $133; motorbikes from $56; bicycles
$15. Passenger fares start from adult/child $55/28.
Bus
Wellington is a major bus-travel hub,
with InterCity ( 04-385 0520; www.intercity.co.nz) boasting the
most extensive network. Services depart from platform 9 at the
train station north to Auckland (11 hours) and all major towns in
between and beyond such as Palmerston North (2¼ hours), Rotorua (7½
hours), and Napier (5½ hours). Buy tickets from the Intercity
ticket window in the train station, or online for discounted
fares.
Naked Bus (
0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) runs north from
Wellington to all major North Island destinations, including
Palmerston North (2½ hours), Napier (five hours), Taupo (6½ hours)
and Auckland (11½ hours), with myriad stops en route. Buses depart
from opposite the Amora Hotel in Wakefield St, and collect more
passengers at Bunny St opposite the railway station. Book online or
at Wellington i-SITE; get in early for the cheapest fares.
Train
Wellington train station has six ticket windows ( 0800 801 700; 6.30am-8pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, to 7pm
Sun) , two selling tickets for KiwiRail Scenic Journeys ( 04-495 0775, 0800 872 467; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz) trains,
Interislander ferries and InterCity coaches; the other four
ticketing local/regional Tranz Metro (
0800 801 700; www.tranzmetro.co.nz) trains
(Johnsonville, Melling, Hutt Valley, Kapiti and Wairarapa
lines).
KiwiRail Scenic runs the just-hanging-in-there Northern Explorer service from Wellington to Auckland on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday, returning from Auckland on Monday, Thursday, and Saturday (from $99, 12 hours). KiwiRail also runs the Capital Connection commuter service from Palmerston North, leaving at 6.15am for Wellington, and returning to Palmerston North at 5.15pm.
Getting Around
Metlink
( 0800 801 700; www.metlink.org.nz) is the
one-stop shop for Wellington’s regional bus, train and harbour
ferry networks.
To/From the Airport
Co-op Shuttles ( 04-387 8787; www.co-opshuttles.co.nz; 1/2 passengers
$20/26) provides a door-to-door minibus service between the
city and airport, 8km southeast of the city. It’s cheaper if two or
more passengers are travelling to the same destination. Shuttles
meet all arriving flights.
The Airport Flyer ( 0800 801 700; www.airportflyer.co.nz) bus runs
between the airport, Wellington and the Hutt Valley, with a fare to
downtown Wellington costing around $9. Buses run from around 6am to
8pm.
A taxi between the city centre and airport costs around $30.
Bicycle
If you’re fit or keep to the flat,
cycling is a viable option. City hirers include On Yer Bike
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
( 04-384 8480; www.onyerbikeavantiplus.co.nz; 181
Vivian St; half-day $20-30, full day $30-40, week $150) near
Cuba St, and Ferg’s Kayaks (Click
here) on the waterfront. Wellington’s Regional Council shows
great encouragement via the maps and suggestions on its
Journey Planner (www.journeyplanner.org.nz) .
Bus
Frequent and efficient bus services cover the whole Wellington region and run between approximately 6am and 11.30pm. Major bus terminals are at the Wellington train station, and on Courtenay Pl near the Cambridge Tce intersection. Pick up route maps and timetables from the i-SITE and convenience stores, or online from Metlink. Fares are determined by zones: a trip across the city centre (Zone 1) costs $2, and all the way north to Masterton (Zone 14) costs $18.
Metlink also runs the After Midnight bus service, departing from two convenient city stops (Courtenay Pl and Cuba St) between midnight and 4.30am Saturday and Sunday, following a number of routes to the outer suburbs. Fares range from $6.50 to $13.50, depending on how far away your bed is.
Car
There are a lot of one-way streets in Wellington, and parking gets tight (and pricey) during the day. If you’ve got a car or a caravan, park on the outskirts and walk or take public transport into the city centre. Campervans can also park during the day at the Wellington Waterfront Motorhome Park and the open-air car park outside Te Papa.
Aside from the major international rental companies, Wellington has several operators that will negotiate cheap deals, especially for longer-term rentals of two weeks or more, but rates generally aren’t as competitive as in Auckland. Rack rates range from around $40 to $80 per day; cars are usually a few years old and in pretty good condition. Operators include the following:
Jucy Rentals ( 0800 399 736, 04-380 6211; www.jucy.co.nz; 5 Ropa Lane,
Miramar)
Apex Car Rental ( 0800 300 110, 04-385 2163; www.apexrentals.co.nz; 186 Victoria
St)
Omega Rental Cars ( 0800 667 722, 04-472 8465; www.omegarentalcars.com; 77 Hutt
Rd)
If you plan on exploring both North and South Islands, most companies suggest you leave your car in Wellington and pick up another one in Picton after crossing Cook Strait. This is a common (and more affordable) practice, and car-hire companies make it a painless exercise.
There are often cheap deals on car relocation from Wellington to Auckland, as most renters travel in the opposite direction. The catch is that you may only have 24 or 48 hours to make the journey.
Taxi
Packed ranks can be found on Courtenay Pl, at the corner of Dixon and Victoria Sts, on Featherston St and outside the railway station. Two of many operators:
Green Cabs
( 0508 447 336; www.greencabs.co.nz)
Wellington Combined
Taxis (
04-384 4444; www.taxis.co.nz)
Train
Tranz
Metro (
0800 801 700; www.tranzmetro.co.nz) operates
four train routes running through Wellington’s suburbs to regional
destinations. Trains run frequently from around 6am to 11pm,
departing Wellington train station. The routes: Johnsonville, via
Ngaio and Khandallah; Kapiti, via Porirua, Plimmerton, Paekakariki
and Paraparaumu; Melling, via Petone; the Hutt Valley via Waterloo
to Upper Hut; and a Wairarapa service calling at Featherston,
Carterton and Masterton. Timetables are available from convenience
stores, the train station, Wellington i-SITE and online. Standard
fares from Wellington to the ends of the five lines range from $5
to $18. A Day Rover ticket ($14) allows unlimited off-peak and
weekend travel on all lines except Wairarapa.
Kapiti Coast
With wide, crowd-free beaches, the Kapiti Coast acts as a summer playground and suburban extension for Wellingtonians. The region takes its name from Kapiti Island, a wildlife sanctuary 5km offshore from Paraparaumu.
The mountainous Tararua Forest Park forms a dramatic backdrop along the length of the coastline and has some accessible day walks and longer tramps.
The Kapiti Coast makes an easy day trip from Wellington, but if you’re after a few restful days there’s enough of interest to keep you entertained.
Information
The Coast’s official visitor centre is
Paraparaumu i-SITE ( 04-298 8195; Coastlands Mall, Rimu Rd;
9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm
Sat & Sun) , located within the Coastlands shopping
centre, where you’ll find all manner of other useful services such
as banks, ATMs, post office and supermarkets.
Getting There & Around
Air
The recently expanded Kapiti Coast Airport (PPQ; www.kapitiairport.co.nz; Toru Rd,
Paraparaumu Beach) in Paraparumu is a regular destination
for Air2there (
0800 777 000; www.air2there.com) , with daily
flights to Blenheim and Nelson, and Air New
Zealand (
0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) , which
flies direct to Auckland.
Bus
InterCity
( 04-385 0520; www.intercity.co.nz) stops at
major Kapiti Coast towns on its services between Wellington (45
minutes) and northern destinations including Taupo (5½ hours) and
Auckland (10 hours). Book online for best fares.
Naked Bus
( 0900 625 33; www.nakedbus.com) also stops at
major Kapiti Coast towns on its daily services.
Metlink
( 0800 801 700; www.metlink.org.nz) runs local
bus services around Paraparaumu, and up to Waikanae and Otaki,
calling at highway and beach settlements.
Car & Motorcycle
Getting here from Wellington is a breeze by car: just follow SH1 for 30 minutes to Paekakariki, and around 45 to Paraparaumui. It’s motorway most of the way.
Train
Tranz Metro (Click here) commuter trains between Wellington and the coast are easier and more frequent than buses. Services run from Wellington to Paraparaumu ($12, generally half-hourly off-peak between 6am and 11pm, with more services at peak times), stopping en route in Paekakariki ($10.50). Weekday off-peak fares (9am to 3pm) are up to $2 cheaper.
KiwiRail Scenic
Journeys (
04-495 0775, 0800 872 467; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz) has
long-distance Northern Explorer trains connecting
Wellington and Auckland stopping at Paraparaumu, while the
weekday-only, peak-hour Capital Connection, travelling to
Wellington in the morning and back to Palmerston North in the
evening, stops at Paraparaumu, Waikanae and Otaki.