REMOTE TRACK ACCESS
The Matemateaonga and Mangapurua/Kaiwhakauka Tracks are brilliant longer tramps (DOC booklets $1, or see www.doc.govt.nz for up-to-date track info). Both are one-way tracks beginning (or ending) at remote spots on the river, so you have to organise jetboat transport to or from the river trailheads – ask any jetboat operator. Between Pipiriki and the Matemateaonga Track is around $50 per person; for the Mangapurua Track it’s around $100.
Mountain Biking
The Whanganui River Rd and Mangapurua/Kaiwhakauka Track have been incorprated into the 317km Mountains to Sea (www.mountainstosea.co.nz) Mt Ruapehu–Whanganui bike track, part of the Nga Haerenga, New Zealand Cycle Trail (www.nzcycletrail.com) project. As part of the experience, from Mangapurua Landing on the Whanganui River near the Bridge to Nowhere, you catch a (prebooked) jetboat downstream to Pipiriki, then continue riding down the Whanganui River Rd. For bike hire and track info try Bike Shed in Whanganui.
Tours
See also Activities (Click here) for info on canoe and jetboat tours on the Whanganui River.
(
06-345 3475; www.whanganuitours.co.nz) Join
the mailman on the Whanganui River Rd to Pipiriki ($63; departs
7am) with lots of social and historical commentary. Returns
mid-afternoon. Ask about transport/cycling options from Jerusalem
back down the road to Whanganui.
Whanganui River Road Tours GUIDED TOUR
(
0800 201 234; www.whanganuiriverroad.com; per person
$80) Take a five-hour minibus ride up the River Rd with lots
of stops and commentary. Or, you can take a truncated tour up to
Pipiriki then cycle back to Whanganui ($100 per person; bikes
supplied). Minimum four people on both tours.
Sleeping
Whanganui National Park
The park has a sprinkling of huts, a lodge and numerous camping grounds. Along the Taumarunui–Pipiriki section are three huts classified as Great Walks Huts during summer and Backcountry Huts in the off-season: Whakahoro Bunkroom OFFLINE MAP , John Coull Hut OFFLINE MAP and Tieke Kainga Hut OFFLINE MAP, which has been revived as a marae (you can stay here, but full marae protocol must be observed). On the lower part of the river, Downes Hut OFFLINE MAP is on the west bank, opposite Atene. See the boxed text for booking info.
Bridge to Nowhere Lodge LODGE $
OFFLINE MAP(
0800 480 308; www.bridgetonowhere.co.nz; dm/d
$50/100) Across the river from the Tieke Kainga
marae , this remote lodge lies deep in the national park,
21km upriver from Pipiriki near the Matemateaonga Track. The only
way to get here is by jetboat from Pipiriki or on foot. It has a
licensed bar, and meals are quality home-cooked affairs. The lodge
also runs jetboat, canoe and mountain-bike trips.
Transport/accommodation/meals packages available.
Whanganui River Road
There’s a free informal campsite with toilets and cold water at Pipiriki, and another one (even less formal) just north of Atene. There’s also a campsite at Pipiriki run by Whanganui River Adventures (Click here) – call for info.
From south to north, non-camping accommodation (book in advance) includes the following:
OFFLINE MAP(
06-342 5599; www.rivertimelodge.co.nz; 1569 Whanganui
River Rd; d $160, extra person $35) A rural idyll: grassy
hills folding down towards the river and the intermittent bleating
of sheep. Rivertime is a simple riverside farmhouse with two
bedrooms, a laundry, a wood heater, a lovely deck and no TV! Sleeps
five; meals available.
(
06-342 8239; www.tepunga.co.nz; 2929 Whanganui River
Rd; campsites $25, d $150, extra person $25; 
) A basic self-contained
cottage next to the owner’s house, just south of Atene. You can
also park your campervan or pitch a tent in the adjacent paddock.
Sleeps five.
(
06-342 8160; www.theflyingfox.co.nz; Whanganui River
Rd; campsites $20, d $100-200; ) 
This eco-attuned getaway is
on the riverbank across from Koriniti. You can self-cater in the
Brewers Cottage, James K or Glory Cart (self-contained cottages),
opt for B&B ($120 per person) or pitch a tent in a bush
clearing. Access is by jetboat; otherwise you can park across the
river from the accommodation then soar over the river on the flying
fox.
(
06-342 8178;
kohu.cottage@xtra.co.nz; 3154 Whanganui River Rd; d from
$70) A snug little cream-coloured weatherboard cottage (100
years old) above the road in Koriniti, sleeping three bods. There’s
a basic kitchen and a wood fire for chilly riverside nights.
(
06-342 8190; www.compassion.org.nz; Whanganui River
Rd; dm adult/child $25/15, linen $10) Taking in bedraggled
travellers and offering 20 dorm-style beds and a simple kitchen,
the sisters at St Joe’s await to issue your deliverance – book
ahead for the privilege. Moutoa Island, site of a historic 1864
battle, is just downriver.
Information
For national park information, try the
affable Whanganui (Click
here) or Taumarunui (Click
here) i-SITEs, or check out www.doc.govt.nz or www.whanganuiriver.co.nz. Otherwise, a
more tangible resource is the NZ Recreational Canoeing
Association’s Guide to the Whanganui River ($10).
The Wanganui Tramping Club ( 06-346 5597; www.wanganuitrampingclub.org.nz)
puts out the quarterly Wanganui Tramper magazine.
There’s no mobile-phone coverage along
the River Rd, and no petrol or shops. There are a couple of
takeaway food vans in Pipiriki open during summer, plus the casual
cafe Matahiwi Gallery ( 06-342 8112; www.matahiwigallery.com; 3925 Whanganui
River Rd; snacks $3-5; 
9am-3.30pm Thu-Sun) in Matahiwi (call ahead
to ensure it’s open).
Getting There & Away
From the north, there’s road access to the Whanganui River at Taumarunui, Ohinepane and Whakahoro, though the latter is a long, remote drive on mostly unsealed roads. Roads to Whakahoro lead off from Owhango and Raurimu, both on SH4. There isn’t any further road access to the river until Pipiriki.
From the south, the Whanganui River Rd veers off SH4 14km north of Whanganui, rejoining it at Raetihi, 91km north of Whanganui. It takes about two hours to drive the 79km between Whanganui and Pipiriki. The full circle from Whanganui through Pipiriki and Raetihi and back along SH4 takes four hours minimum (longer if you want to stop and look at some things). Alternatively, take a River Rd tour from Whanganui.
Note that the River Rd is unsealed between Ranana and 4km south of Pipiriki, although road crews are making steady progress in sealing the entire route.
Palmerston North
Pop 83,800
The rich sheep- and dairy-farming Manawatu region embraces the districts of Rangitikei to the north and Horowhenua to the south. The hub of it all, on the banks of the Manawatu River, is Palmerston North, with its moderate high-rise attempts reaching up from the plains. Massey University, NZ’s largest, informs the town’s cultural and social structures. As a result ‘Palmy’ has an open-minded, rurally bookish vibe.
None of this impressed a visiting John Cleese who scoffed, ‘If you ever do want to kill yourself, but lack the courage, I think a visit to Palmerston North will do the trick.’ The city exacted revenge by naming a rubbish dump after him.
Palmerston North
Sights
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking &
Nightlife
Entertainment
Sights
New Zealand Rugby Museum
MUSEUM
(www.rugbymuseum.co.nz; Te Manawa
Complex, 326 Main St; adult/child/family $12.50/5/30;
10am-5pm) Fans of
the oval ball holler about the New Zealand Rugby Museum, an amazing
space overflowing with rugby paraphernalia, from a 1905 All Blacks
jumper to a scrum machine and the actual whistle used to start the
first game of every Rugby World Cup. Of course, NZ won the 2011
Rugby World Cup: quiz the staff about the All Blacks’ 2015
prospects.
(www.temanawa.co.nz; 326 Main St;
10am-5pm)
Te Manawa merges a museum and art
gallery into one experience. Vast collections join the dots between
‘life, art and mind’. The museum has a strong Maori focus, while
the gallery’s exhibits change frequently. Kids will get a kick out
of the hands-on exhibits and interactive play area. The New Zealand
Rugby Museum is in the same complex.
(The Square) Taking the English village green concept to a whole new level, the Square is Palmy’s heart and soul. Seven spacey hectares, with a clock tower, duck pond, giant chess, Maori carvings, statues and trees of all seasonal dispositions. Locals eat lunch on the manicured lawns in the sunshine.
Activities
Swing into the i-SITE and pick up the Discover City Walkways booklet and the Cycling the Country Road Manawatu brochure.
(www.lidoaquaticcentre.co.nz; 50 Park Rd;
adult/child $4/3, hydroslide $5; 6am-8pm Mon-Thu, 6am-9pm Fri, 8am-8pm Sat &
Sun) When the summer plains bake, dive into the Lido Aquatic
Centre. It’s a long way from Lido Beach in Venice, but it has a 50m
pool, waterslides, a cafe and a gym.
Manawatu Gorge Experience Jet JETBOATING
(
06-342 5599, 0800 945 335;
www.manawatugorgejet.com; 25min tours
per person from $75) Jetboat rides through gorgeous Manawatu
Gorge, about 25 minutes from Palmy.
Tours
Feilding Saleyard Tours CULTURAL TOUR
(
06-323 3318; www.feilding.co.nz; Feilding; tours
$10; 11am Fri) Local farmers instruct you in the
gentle art of selling livestock at this small town north of the
city centre. Farmers market from 9am to 2pm every Friday.
(
06-376 0815.; www.tuibrewery.co.nz; SH2, Mangatainoka;
35min tours per person $20; 11am & 2pm) Even if you’re more of a
craft-beer fan than a drinker of ubiquitous Tui, this boozy tour is
a worthwhile outing. Check out the interesting brewery and museum
and taste a Tui or three. About 30 minutes east of Palmerston
North; bookings essential.
Festivals & Events
Festival of Cultures CULTURAL, FOOD & WINE
(www.foc.co.nz) Massive arts/culture/lifestyle festival in late March, with a food-and-craft market in the Square.
International Jazz & Blues Festival MUSIC
(www.jazzandblues.co.nz) All things jazzy, bluesy and swingin’ in late May/early June, including plenty of workshops.
Manawatu Wine & Food Festival FOOD & WINE
(www.mwff.co.nz) Mid-June weekend fiesta of culinary creations and the best local drops.
Manawatu Harvest Festival FOOD, CULTURE
(www.maifarm.org.nz) Showcases local harvest
delights and sustainable living practices in October.
Sleeping
(
06-355 4054; www.peppertreehostel.co.nz; 121 Grey St;
dm/s/d $30/53/72; 
) Inexplicably strewn with green-painted
boots, this endearing 100-year-old house is the best budget option
in town. Mattresses are thick, the kitchen will never run out of
spatulas, and the piano and wood fire make things feel downright
homey. Doubles off the kitchen are a bit noisy – angle for one at
the back.
(
06-356 8880; www.atthehub.co.nz; 10 King St; r per
night/week from $85/350; ) There are lots of students in Palmy, and
lots of them stay here during the term. But plenty of rooms are
usually available for travellers too. Book a serviced en-suite
double unit with kitchenette, or a simple student shoebox (also
with en suite). Great location, great value.
Palmerston
North
Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $
(
06-358 0349; www.palmerstonnorthholidaypark.co.nz;
133 Dittmer Dr; campsites/cabins from $35/45, d unit $80;
) About 2km from
the Square, off Ruha St, this shady park with daisy-speckled lawns
has a bit of a boot-camp feel to it, but it’s quiet, affordable and
right beside Victoria Esplanade gardens. Great for kids.
(
06-355 2130; www.cafedeparisinn.co.nz; 267 Main St;
s/d $60/80; 
) It ain’t Montmartre, but this friendly,
1893 boozer three minutes’ walk from the Square has a warren of
surprisingly decent pub rooms upstairs, all with TV, en suite and
rather kooky furnishings. Good value! Limited off-street
parking.
(
06-358 7813; www.plumtreeslodge.co.nz; 97 Russell St;
s/d incl breakfast from $150/185; ) In a flat-grid town with more motels than
seems plausible, this secluded lodge comes as sweet relief. It’s
brilliantly designed using recycled timbers from demolition sites,
with raked timber ceilings punctuated with skylights, and a balcony
set among swaying boughs. Romantic nights slide lazily into
breakfast – a sumptuous hamper of fresh fruit, croissants,
jams, eggs, cheese, coffee and juice.
Fitzherbert Castle Motel MOTEL $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
06-358 3888, 0800 115 262;
www.fitzcastlemotel.co.nz; 124 Fitzherbert Ave; d $110-195;
) It looks
unapologetically like a Tudor castle from outside, but inside it’s
more like an intimate hotel. Fourteen immaculate rooms with
cork-tiled bathroom floors and quality carpets, plenty of trees,
friendly staff and small kitchens in some units. Free wi-fi and
laundry.
Bentleys Motor Inn MOTEL, APARTMENT $$
OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP(
06-358 7074, 0800 2368
5397; www.bentleysmotorinn.co.nz; cnr Linton & Chaytor Sts;
ste $155-320) Putting a corporate spin on the motel theme,
Bentleys’ five-star apartments are worth the investment. Inside are
new appliances, DVD player, spa, stereo, contemporary furnishings
and Sky TV; outside are a full-blown gym, squash court and sauna.
You could stay here for weeks…
Eating
(www.paknsave.co.nz; 335 Ferguson
St; 8am-10pm) Cheap and cheerful.
(
06-357 6663; www.tomatocafe.co.nz; 72 George St;
brunch $7-30, dinner $16-30; 7am-4pm Sun-Wed, to 9pm Thu-Sat) This
brilliant new cafe is a buzzy yellow box plastered with ‘Kiwiana’:
retro NZ album covers, photos, prints and canvases. Infused with
entrepreneurial spirit, the boss gets up at 5am to make the daily
dough. His enthusiasm is infectious: happy staff deliver beaut
salads, pizzas, croissant BLTs and excellent eggs Benedict.
Friday-evening happy hour; occasional live jazz. Winner!
(
06-356 1316; www.yatai.co.nz; 316 Featherston St;
mains $16-30; noon-2pm Tue-Fri, 6-9pm Tue-Sat) Simple,
fresh, authentic Japanese food cooked by Atsushi Taniyama in an
unpretentious suburban house with empty sake bottles lining the
window sills. Front-of-house host Barbara comes with a big
personality. Set menus available.
(
06-353 7400; www.indian2nite.com; 22 George St; mains
$10-19; 10.30am-3pm & 5pm-late daily; 
) With just the right touch of
Bollywood schmaltz, this reasonably upmarket place smells enticing
and certainly won’t break the bank. Behind George St picture
windows and tucked under a curved wall-cum-ceiling, northern Indian
curries are served by super-polite waiting staff. Try the dahl
makhani .
(www.cafecuba.co.nz; cnr George &
Cuba Sts; brunch $9-26, dinner $26-31;
7am-10pm Sun-Tue, to late
Wed-Sat; ) Need a sugar shot? Proceed to
day-turns-to-night Café Cuba – the cakes here are for professional
chocoholics only. Supreme coffees and cafe fare (risottos, salads,
curries, corn fritters) also draw the crowds. The kumara cakes with
avocado, sweet chilli and cream are magic. Live music Friday
nights.
(
06-357 5777; www.halikarnas.co.nz; 15 Fitzherbert
Ave; mains $18-25; noon-2pm Tue-Fri, 5pm-late daily) Angling
for an Ali-Baba-and-the-Forty-Thieves vibe, with magic carpets,
brass hookahs and funky trans-Bosphorus beats, Halikarnas plates up
generous Turkish delights, from lamb shish kebabs to felafels and
kick-arse Turkish coffee. Takeaway kebabs next door.
Drinking & Nightlife
(Regent
Arcade; 4-11pm Wed, to 1am Thu, to 3am Fri &
Sat) A progressive, stylish, Pacifically hewn cocktail bar,
the Fish has got its finger firmly on the Palmy pulse. DJs smooth
over your problems on Thursday and Friday nights as a sexy, urbane
crew sips Manhattans and Tamarillo Mules (yes, they kick).
(www.brewersapprentice.co.nz; 334 Church
St; 4pm-late Mon-Wed, from 11am Thu-Sun) What
was once a grungy student pub is now a slick Monteith’s-sponsored
bar. Business crowds flock for meals (brunch and lunch $8 to $18,
dinner $23 to $29), and drinkers over 25 fill the beer terrace
after dark. Live music Friday nights. You have been warned: ‘No
untidy shoes.’
(www.celticinn.co.nz; Regent
Arcade; 11am-late Mon-Sat, 4pm-11am Sun) The Celtic
expertly offsets the Fish bar nearby with good old-fashioned pub
stuff, labourers, travellers and students bending elbows with a few
tasty pints of the black stuff. Friendly staff, live music, red
velvet chairs, kids darting around parents’ legs – it’s all
here.
Entertainment
(www.cinemagold.co.nz; Downtown Shopping
Arcade, Broadway Ave; adult/child $17/12;
10am-midnight) In the same
complex as the more mainstream Downtown Cinemas
OFFLINE MAP
GOOGLE MAP
(www.dtcinemas.co.nz; adult/child
$16/10; 10am-midnight) , CinemaGold ups the ante
with plush seats and a booze licence to enhance art-house classics
and limited-release screenings.
(www.centrepoint.co.nz; 280 Church
St; box office 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) A mainstay of
the simmering Palmerston North theatre scene, Centrepoint serves up
big-name professional shows, theatre sports and seasonal plays.
Information
DOC (Department of Conservation;
06-350 9700; www.doc.govt.nz; 717 Tremaine
Ave; 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) DOC information 3km
north of the Square.
Palmerston North
Hospital (
06-356 9169; www.midcentraldhb.govt.nz; 50 Ruahine
St; 24hr) Accident and emergency
assistance.
Palmerston North
i-SITE (
06-350 1922; www.manawatunz.co.nz; The Square;
9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm
Sat & Sun; ) A super-helpful source of tourist
information; free wi-fi throughout the Square.
Post
Office (cnr Main St & The
Square; 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5.30pm Sat)
Radius Medical, The
Palms (
06-354 7737; www.radiusmedical.co.nz; 445 Ferguson
St; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun)
Urgent medical help, plus doctors by appointment and a
pharmacy.
Getting There & Away
Air
Palmerston North Airport (www.pnairport.co.nz; Airport Dr) is 4km north of the town centre. Air New Zealand runs daily direct flights to Auckland, Christchurch and Wellington.
Bus
InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) buses
operate from the
Palmerston North Travel Centre
( 06-355 4955; cnr Main & Pitt Sts;
8.45am-5pm Mon-Thu,
8.45am-7.45pm Fri, 9am-2.45pm & 3.45-5pm Sat, 9am-2.45pm &
3.45-7.15pm Sun) . Destinations include the following:
|
Destination |
Price ($) |
Duration (hr) |
Frequency (daily) |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Auckland |
72 |
9 |
2 |
|
Napier |
29 |
3½ |
2 |
|
Taupo |
35 |
4 |
2 |
|
Wellington |
35 |
2¼ |
7 |
|
Whanganui |
25 |
1½ |
3 |
Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) services depart from the i-SITE and outside the courthouse in Main St. Destinations include the following:
|
Destination |
Price ($) |
Duration (hr) |
Frequency (daily) |
|---|---|---|---|
|
Auckland |
25 |
9 |
2 |
|
Napier |
18 |
3 |
1 |
|
Taupo |
24 |
4¼ |
2 |
|
Wellington |
15 |
2¼ |
4 |
|
Whanganui |
13 |
1¼ |
1 |
Train
KiwiRail Scenic Journeys ( 04-495 0775, 0800 872 467; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz) runs
long-distance trains between Wellington and Auckland, stopping at
the retro-derelict Palmerston North Train Station (Mathews Ave) , off Tremaine Ave about
2.5km north of the Square. From Palmy to Wellington, take the
Northern Explorer ($48, 2½ hours) departing at 4.20pm
Monday, Thursday and Saturday; or the Capital Connection
($30.50, two hours) departing Palmy at 6.15am Monday to Friday. To
Auckland, the Northern Explorer ($198, nine hours) departs
at 10am on Tuesday, Friday and Sunday. Buy tickets from KiwiRail
Scenic Journeys directly, or on the train for the Capital
Connection (no ticket sales at the station).
Getting Around
To/From the Airport
There’s no public transport between the
city and airport, but taxis abound or Super Shuttle ( 09-522 5100, 0800 748 885; www.supershuttle.co.nz; tickets
$16) can whiz you into town in a minivan (prebooking
required). A city-to-airport taxi costs around $20.
Bicycle
Crank It Cycles
( 06-358 9810; www.crankitcycles.co.nz; 244 Cuba
St; 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat, 10am-2pm
Sun) Hires out city bikes from $20/30 per half/full day,
including helmet and lock (deposit $50).
Bus
Horizons (www.horizons.govt.nz; tickets adult/child $2.50/1.50) Runs daytime buses departing from the Main St bus stop on the east side of the Square. Bus 12 goes to Massey University; none go to the airport.
Taxi
Gold & Black
Taxis (
0800 351 2345, 06-351 2345; www.facebook.com/taxisgoldblack)
Family-run local outfit.
Around Palmerston North
Just south of ‘Student City’ in the underrated Horowhenua district, Shannon (population 1250) and Foxton (population 2650) are sedentary country towns en route to Wellington.
Our fine feathered friends at Owlcatraz (
06-362 7872; www.owlcatraz.co.nz; SH57, Shannon;
adult/child incl 2hr tour $25/10; 9am-5pm) have obligingly adopted
oh-so-droll names like Owlvis Presley and Owl Capone. It’s a
30-minute drive south from Palmerston North.
Foxton Beach is one of a string of broad, shallow Tasman Sea beaches along this stretch of coast – brown sand, driftwood and holiday houses proliferate. Other worthy beaches include Himatangi, Hokio and Waikawa.
The town of Levin (population 19,550) is more sizeable, but suffers from being too close to both Wellington and Palmerston North to warrant the through-traffic making a stop.
Manawatu Gorge
& Around
About 15km northeast of Palmerston North, SH2 dips into Manawatu Gorge. Maori named the gorge Te Apiti (the Narrow Passage), believing the big reddish rock near the centre of the gorge was its guardian spirit. The rock’s colour is said to change intensity when a prominent Rangitane tribe member dies or sheds blood. It takes around four hours to walk through the gorge from either end, or you can see it via jetboat (Click here).
On the southwestern edge of the gorge, about
40 minutes’ drive from Palmerston North, is the Tararua Wind Farm (www.trustpower.co.nz)
, allegedly the largest wind farm in the southern hemisphere. From
Hall Block Rd there are awesome views of the turbines. Spinning
similarly, north of the gorge is Te
Apiti Wind Farm (www.meridianenergy.co.nz) . There
are great views from Saddle Rd – ask the Palmerston North
i-SITE (
06-350 1922, 0800 626 292; www.manawatunz.co.nz; The Square;
9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm
Sat & Sun; ) for directions to both farms.
Alternatively, flee the city with a visit to
Timeless Horse Treks ( 06-376 6157; www.timelesshorsetreks.co.nz; Gorge Rd,
Ballance; 1-/2-hr rides from $45/75) . Gentle trail rides
take in the Manawatu River and surrounding hills, or saddle up for
an overnight summertime trek ($225). Palmerston North
pick-up/drop-off available.