New Zealand Travel Guide Lonely Planet

( 07-348 9047, 0800 837 842; www.tepuia.com; Hemo Rd; tours adult/child $48.50/24.50, daytime tour & performance combo $60.50/30.50, evening tour, performance & hangi combo $150/75; 8am-6pm Nov-Apr, to 5pm May-Oct) Rotorua’s main drawcard is Te Whakarewarewa (pronounced ‘fa-ka-re-wa-re-wa’), a thermal reserve 3km south of the city centre. There are more than 500 springs here, the most famous of which is Pohutu (‘Big Splash’ or ‘Explosion’), a geyser which erupts up to 20 times a day, spurting hot water up to 30m skyward. You’ll know when it’s about to blow because the adjacent Prince of Wales’ Feathers geyser will start up shortly before. Both these geysers form part of Te Puia, the most polished of NZ’s Maori cultural attractions. Also here is the National Carving School and the National Weaving School, where you can discover the work and methods of traditional Maori woodcarvers and weavers, plus a carved meeting house, a cafe, galleries, a kiwi reserve and a gift shop.

Tours take 1½ hours and depart hourly from 9am (the last tour an hour before closing). Daytime 45-minute cultural performances start at 10.15am, 12.15pm and 3.15pm; nightly three-hour Te Po indigenous concerts and hangi feasts start at 6pm (following on from a 4.30pm tour in a combo package).

Whakarewarewa
Thermal Village THERMAL RESERVE, CULTURAL TOUR

( 07-349 3463; www.whakarewarewa.com; 17 Tyron St; tour & cultural performance adult/child $35/15; 8.30am-5pm) Whakarewarewa Thermal Village is a living village where tangata whenua (the locals) still reside, as they have for centuries. The villagers show you around and tell you the stories of their way of life and the significance of the steamy bubbling pools, the silica terraces and the geysers that, although inaccessible from the village, are easily viewed from vantage points (the view of Pohutu is just as good from here as it is from Te Puia, and considerably cheaper).

The village shops sell authentic arts and crafts, and you can learn more about Maori traditions such as flax weaving, carving, and ta moko (tattooing). Nearby you can eat tasty, buttery sweetcorn ($2) pulled straight out of the hot mineral pool − the only genuine geothermal hangi in town. There are cultural performances at 11.15am and 2pm, and guided tours at 9am, 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, 3pm and 4pm.

Rotorua Museum MUSEUM, GALLERY

( 07-351 8055; www.rotoruamuseum.co.nz; Queens Dr, Government Gardens; adult/child $20/8; 9am-5pm, to 6pm Dec-Feb, tours hourly 10am-4pm plus 5pm Dec-Feb) This outstanding museum occupies a grand Tudor-style edifice. It was originally an elegant spa retreat called the Bath House (1908): displays in the former shower rooms give a fascinating insight into some of the eccentric therapies once administered here, including ‘electric baths’ and the Bergonie Chair.

A gripping 20-minute film on the history of Rotorua, including the Tarawera eruption, runs every 20 minutes from 9am (not for small kids – the eruption noises are authentic!). The fabulous Don Stafford Wing houses eight object-rich galleries dedicated to Rotorua’s Te Arawa people, featuring woodcarving, flax weaving, jade, interactive audiovisual displays and the stories of the revered WWII 28 Maori Battalion. Also here are two art galleries (with air swabbed clean of hydrogen sulphide) and a cool cafe with garden views (although the best view in town can be had from the viewing platform on the roof).

Lake Rotorua LAKE

Lake Rotorua is the largest of the district’s 16 lakes and is − underneath all that water − a spent volcano. Sitting in the lake is Mokoia Island, which has for centuries been occupied by various subtribes of the area. The lake can be explored by boat, with several operators situated at the lakefront.

Kuirau Park PARK

(cnr Ranolf & Pukuatua Sts) Want some affordable geothermal thrills? Just west of central Rotorua is Kuirau Park, a volcanic area you can explore for free. In 2003 an eruption covered much of the park (including the trees) in mud, drawing crowds of spectators. It has a crater lake, pools of boiling mud and plenty of huffing steam. Take care – the pools here are boiling, and accidents have happened.

Government Gardens GARDENS

(Hinemaru St) The manicured English-style Government Gardens surrounding the Rotorua Museum are pretty as a picture, with roses aplenty, steaming thermal pools dotted about and civilised amenities such as croquet lawns and bowling greens. Also here is the upmarket Polynesian Spa and Ballbusters golf.

Blue Baths BATHHOUSE

( 07-350 2119; www.bluebaths.co.nz; Government Gardens; adult/child/family $11/6/30; noon-6pm Apr-Oct, 10am-6pm Nov-Mar) The gorgeous Spanish Mission–style Blue Baths opened in 1933 (and, amazingly, were closed from 1982 to 1999). If you feel like taking a dip, the heated pool awaits. Ask about occasional dinner-and-cabaret shows (from $80 per person).

Ohinemutu MAORI VILLAGE

Ohinemutu is a ramshackle lakeside Maori village (access via Kiharoa, Haukotuku or Korokai Sts off Lake St, north of Rotorua Hospital) that traces the fusing of European and Maori cultures. Highlights include the sacred 1905 Tama-te-kapua Meeting House (not open to visitors), plenty of steaming volcanic vents, and the historic timber St Faith’s Anglican Church OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 07-348 2393; cnr Mataiawhea & Korokai Sts; admission by donation; 8am-6pm, services 9am Sun & 10am Wed) , which features intricate Maori carvings, tukutuku (woven panels) and a stained-glass window of Christ wearing a Maori cloak as he walks on the waters of Lake Rotorua.

Be respectful if you’re visiting the village: this is private land, and locals don’t appreciate loud, nosy tourists wandering around taking photos.

HINEMOA & TUTANEKAI

Hinemoa was a young woman of a hapu (subtribe) that lived on the western shore of Lake Rotorua, while Tutanekai was a young man of a Mokoia Island hapu. The pair met and fell in love during a regular tribal meeting. While both were of high birth, Tutanekai was illegitimate, so marriage between the two was forbidden.

Home on Mokoia, the lovesick Tutanekai played his flute for his love, the wind carrying the melody across the water. Hinemoa heard his declaration, but her people took to tying up the canoes at night to ensure she wouldn’t go to him.

Finally, Tutanekai’s music won her over. Hinemoa undressed and swam the long distance from the shore to the island. When she arrived on Mokoia, Hinemoa found herself in a quandary. Shedding her clothing in order to swim, she could hardly walk into the island’s settlement naked. She hopped into a hot pool to think about her next move.

Eventually a man came to fetch water from a cold spring beside the hot pool. In a deep man’s voice, Hinemoa called out, ‘Who is it?’ The man replied that he was Tutanekai’s slave on a water run. Hinemoa grabbed the slave’s calabash and smashed it to pieces. More slaves came, but she smashed their calabashes too, until finally Tutanekai came to the pool and demanded that the interloper identify himself - imagine his surprise when it turned out to be Hinemoa. He secreted her into his hut.

Next morning, after a suspiciously long lie-in, a slave reported that someone was in Tutanekai’s bed. The two lovers were rumbled, and when Hinemoa’s superhuman efforts to reach Tutanekai had been revealed, their union was celebrated.

Descendants of Hinemoa and Tutanekai still live around Rotorua today.

Activities

Extreme Sports

Rotorua Canopy Tours EXTREME SPORTS

( 07-343 1001, 0800 226 679; www.canopytours.co.nz; 173 Old Taupo Rd; 3hr tours per adult/child/family $129/85/399; 8am-8pm Oct-Apr, 8am-6pm May-Sep) Explore a 1.2km web of bridges, flying foxes, ziplines and platforms, 22m high in a lush native forest canopy 10 minutes out of town (…they say that rimu tree is 1000 years old!). Plenty of native birds to keep you company. Free pick-ups available.

Agroventures EXTREME SPORTS

( 07-357 4747, 0800 949 888; www.agroventures.co.nz; Western Rd, off Paradise Valley Rd, Ngongotaha; 1/2/4/8 rides $49/75/99/179; 9am-5pm) Agroventures is a hive of action, 9km north of Rotorua on SH5 (shuttles available). Start off with the 43m bungy and the Swoop, a 130km/h swing that can be enjoyed alone or with friends. If that’s not enough, try Freefall Xtreme, which simulates skydiving by blasting you 3m into the air on a column of wind. Also here is the Shweeb, a monorail velodrome from which you hang in a clear capsule and pedal yourself along recumbently at speeds of up to 60km/h. Alongside is the Agrojet, allegedly NZ’s fastest jetboat, splashing around a 1km course.

Zorb EXTREME SPORTS

( 07-357 5100, 0800 227 474; www.zorb.com; cnr Western Rd & SH5, Ngongotaha; 1/2/3 rides $45/70/90; 9am-5pm, to 7pm Dec-Mar) The Zorb is 9km north of Rotorua on SH5 − look for the grassy hillside with large, clear, people-filled spheres rolling down it. Your eyes do not deceive you! There are three courses: 150m straight, 180m zigzag or 250m ‘Drop’. Do your zorb strapped in and dry, or freestyle with water thrown in.

Ogo EXTREME SPORTS

( 07-343 7676, 0800 646 768; www.ogo.co.nz; 525 Ngongotaha Rd; rides from $45; 9am-5pm, to 6.30pm Dec-Feb) Similar to the Zorb, the Ogo (about 5km north of town) involves careening down a grassy hillside in a big bubble, with water or without. Silly? Fun? Terrifying? All of the above…

The Wall ROCK CLIMBING

( 07-350 1400; www.thewall.co.nz; 1140 Hinemoa St; adult/child incl harness $16/12, shoe hire $5; noon-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun) Get limbered up at the Wall, a three-storey indoor climbing wall with overhangs aplenty.

Skyline Rotorua EXTREME SPORTS

( 07-347 0027; www.skyline.co.nz; Fairy Springs Rd; adult/child gondola $25/12.50, luge 3 rides $42/32, sky swing $63/53; 9am-11pm) This gondola cruises up Mt Ngongotaha, about 3km northwest of town, from where you can take in panoramic lake views or ride a speedy luge back down on three different tracks. For even speedier antics, try the Sky Swing, a screaming swoosh through the air at speeds of up to 160km/h. Also at the top are a restaurant, a cafe and walking tracks.

Kawarau Jet JETBOATING

( 07-343 7600, 0800 538 7746; www.kjetrotorua.co.nz; Lakefront; 30min adult/child $74/54; 9am-6pm) Speed things up on a jetboat ride with Kawarau Jet, which tears around the lake. Parasailing (30 minutes tandem/solo $80/115) and fishing trips (from $170 per hour) also available.

ROTORUA IN...

Two Days

Order breakfast at Third Place Cafe after which stroll back into town via steamy Kuirau Park. Next stop is the fabulous Rotorua Museum, followed by a soak at the Blue Baths. In the evening, catch a hangi and concert at Tamaki Maori Village or Mitai Maori Village.

Start the second day with a tour of Whakarewarewa Thermal Village and watch Pohutu geyser blow its top. From here, it’s a quick hop to the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest for a couple of hours’ mountain biking. More forest action awaits in the afternoon courtesy of Rotorua Canopy Tours, or pay a visit to the swooping falcons at the Wingspan National Bird of Prey Centre.

Four Days

Too much geothermal excitement is barely enough! Explore the hot spots to the south: Waimangu Volcanic Valley and Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland. The nearby Waikite Valley Thermal Pools are perfect for an end-of-day plunge.

On your last day, head southeast and visit the Buried Village, swim in Lake Tarawera, or take a long walk on one of the tracks at nearby Lake Okataina. Back in town, cruise the restaurants and bars on Tutanekai St (aka ‘Eat Street) and toast your efforts with a few cold beers at Brew.

Mountain Biking

On the edge of town is the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest (Click here), home to some of the best mountain-bike trails in the country. There are close to 100km of tracks to keep bikers of all skill levels happy for days on end. Note that not all tracks in the forest are designated for bikers, so adhere to the signposts. Pick up a trail map at the forest visitor centre.

Also here is the Te Ara Ahi ride, one of the New Zealand Cycle Trail (www.nzcycletrail.com) ‘Great Rides’. It’s an intermediate, two-day, 66km ride heading south of town to Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland and beyond.

For more information, the Rotorua i-SITE stocks the Get on Your Bike Rotorua cycle map. Online, see the Cycling/Mountain Biking info at www.rotoruanz.com/visit/to-do.

Mountain Bike Rotorua BICYCLE RENTAL

( 0800 682 768; www.mtbrotorua.co.nz; Waipa State Mill Rd; mountain bikes per 2hr/day from $35/45, guided half-/full-day rides from $130/275; 9am-5pm) This outfit hires out bikes at the Waipa Mill car park entrance to the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest, the starting point for the bike trails. There’s also a satellite bike depot across the forest at the visitor centre, so you can ride through the trees one-way then catch a shuttle back.

Planet Bike BICYCLE RENTAL

( 027 280 2817; www.planetbike.co.nz; Waipa Bypass Rd; mountain bikes per 2hr/day $35/60) Bike hire and guided rides (two hours/half-day from $75/115) in the Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest.

Bike Barn BICYCLE RENTAL

( 07-347 1151; www.bikebarn.co.nz; 1275 Fenton St; mountain bikes per half-/full day from $45/60; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4.30pm Sat, 10am-4.30pm Sun) Bike hire and repairs in downtown Rotorua.

White-Water Rafting,
Sledging & Kayaking

There’s plenty of kayaking and white-water action around Rotorua with the chance to take on the Grade V Kaituna River, complete with a startling 7m drop at Okere Falls. Most of these trips take a day. Some companies head further out to the Rangitaiki River (Grade III–VI) and Wairoa River (Grade V), raftable only when the dam is opened every second Sunday. Sledging (in case you didn’t know) is zooming downriver on a body board. Most operators can arrange transport.

River Rats RAFTING, KAYAKING

( 07-345 6543, 0800 333 900; www.riverrats.co.nz) Takes on the Wairoa ($129), Kaituna ($105) and Rangitaiki ($139), and runs a scenic trip on the lower Rangitaiki (Grade II) that is good for youngsters (adult/child $139/110). Kayaking options include freedom hire ($40/60 per half-/full day) and guided four-hour Lake Rotoiti trips ($110).

Wet ‘n’ Wild RAFTING

( 07-348 3191, 0800 462 7238; www.wetnwildrafting.co.nz) Runs trips on the Kaituna ($99), Wairoa ($110) and Mokau ($160), as well as easy-going Rangitaiki trips (adult/child $130/110) and longer trips to remote parts of the Motu and Mohaka (two to five days, $650 to $1095).

Raftabout RAFTING, SLEDGING

( 07-343 9500, 0800 723 822) Rafting trips on the Kaituna ($105), Rangitaiki ($139) and Wairoa ($129), plus sledging on the Kaituna ($119).

Kaituna Cascades RAFTING, KAYAKING

( 07-345 4199, 0800 524 8862; www.kaitunacascades.co.nz) Rafting on the Kaituna ($84), Rangitaiki ($118) and Wairoa ($108), plus kayaking options and combos.

Go Wild Adventures KAYAKING

( 07-533 2926; www.adventurekayaking.co.nz) Takes trips on Lakes Rotorua, Rotoiti, Tarawera and Okataina (per two hours/half-day/full day from $80/95/130). Also offers freedom hire (from $50 per day).

Kaitiaki Adventures RAFTING, SLEDGING

( 07-357 2236, 0800 338 736; www.kaitiaki.co.nz) Offers white-water rafting trips on the Kaituna ($95), Wairoa ($99) and Rangitaiki ($125), plus sledging on the Wairoa ($299) and a Grade III section of the Kaituna ($109).

Kaituna Kayaks KAYAKING

( 07-362 4486; www.kaitunakayaks.co.nz; half-day trips from $199, lessons per half-/full day from $199/299) Guided tandem trips and kayaking lessons (cheaper for groups) on the Kaituna River.

Thermal Pools & Massage

Spa/pool complexes in the area include Hells Gate & Wai Ora Spa (Click here), 16km northeast of Rotorua, and Waikite Valley Thermal Pools (Click here), around 35km south.

Polynesian Spa SPA, MASSAGE

( 07-348 1328; www.polynesianspa.co.nz; 1000 Hinemoa St; adults-only pools $25, private pools per 30min adult/child from $18/6.50, family pool adult/child/family $14.50/6.50/36, spa therapies from $85; 8am-11pm, spa therapies 10am-7pm) A bathhouse opened at these Government Gardens springs in 1882, and people have been swearing by the waters ever since. There is mineral bathing (36°C to 42°C) in several picturesque pools at the lake’s edge, marble-lined terraced pools and a larger, main pool. Also here are luxury therapies (massage, mud and beauty treatments) and a cafe.

Tramping

There are plenty of opportunities to stretch your legs around Rotorua, with day walks a speciality. The booklet Walks in the Rotorua Lakes Area ($2.50), available from the i-SITE, showcases town walks, including the popular lakefront stroll (20 minutes). See also www.doc.govt.nz.

The Eastern Okataina Walkway (three hours one way) goes along the eastern shoreline of Lake Okataina to Lake Tarawera and passes the Soundshell, a natural amphitheatre that has pa (fortified village) remains and several swimming spots. The Western Okataina Walkway (five hours one way) mimics this route on the western side of the lake.

The Northern Tarawera Track (three hours one way) connects to the Eastern Okataina Walkway, creating a two-day walk from either Ruato or Lake Okataina to Lake Tarawera with an overnight camp at either Humphries Bay (sites free) or Tarawera Outlet (sites per adult/child $6/3). From Tarawera Outlet you can walk on to the 65m Tarawera Falls (four hours return). There’s a forestry road into Tarawera Outlet from Kawerau, a grim timber town in the shadow of Putauaki (Mt Edgecumbe), off the road to Whakatane; access costs $5, with permits available from the Kawerau visitor centre ( 07-323 6300; www.kawerauonline.com; Plunkett St bus terminal; 8am-6pm Dec-Mar, 8am-4pm Apr-Nov) .

The Okere Falls are about 21km northeast of Rotorua on SH33, with an easy track (30 minutes return) past the 7m falls (popular for rafting), through native podocarp (conifer) forest and along the Kaituna River. Along the way is a lookout over the river at Hinemoa’s Steps.

Just north of Wai-O-Tapu on SH5, the Rainbow Mountain Track (1½ hours one way) is a strenuous walk up the peak known to Maori as Maungakakaramea (Mountain of Coloured Earth). There are spectacular views from the top towards Lake Taupo and Tongariro National Park.

For a short stroll try Hamurana Springs OFFLINE MAP on the northern edge of Lake Rotorua – a sacred place for Ngati Rangiwewehi Maori – where there’s a 1.5km loop walk alongside gin-clear springs through a redwood grove.

There are also a couple of good walks at Mt Ngongotaha, 10km northwest of Rotorua: the easy 3.2km Nature Walk loop through native forest, and the steep 5km return Jubilee Track to the (viewless) summit. See www.ngongotaha.org.

Fishing

There’s always good trout fishing to be had somewhere around Rotorua. Hire a guide or go solo: either way a licence (per day/half-season/full season $23/73/121) is essential, available from O’Keefe’s Fishing Specialists OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 07-346 0178; www.okeefesfishing.co.nz; 1113 Eruera St; 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat, 9am-1pm Sun) . You can fish Rotorua’s lakefront with a licence, though not all lakes can be fished year-round; check with O’Keefe’s or the i-SITE.

Trout Man FISHING

( 07-357 5255, 0800 876 881; www.waiteti.com; 2hr/day trips from $40/140) Learn to fish with experienced angler Harvey Clark, from a couple of hours to multiday trips.

Clark Gregor FISHING

( 07-347 1123; www.troutnz.co.nz; per hr $105) Fly- and boat fishing.

Gordon Randle FISHING

( 07-349 2555; www.rotoruatrout.co.nz; half-/full-day charters $370/750) Reasonable hourly rates also available.

Horse Riding

Farmhouse HORSE RIDING

( 07-332 3771; www.thefarmhouse.co.nz; 55 Sunnex Rd, off Central Rd; 30/60/120min $26/42/74) North of Lake Rotorua at the Farmhouse you can saddle up for a short horse-riding trip for beginners, or a longer trek for experienced riders.

Golf

Ballbusters GOLF

( 07-348 9126; www.ballbusters.co.nz; Queens Dr, Government Gardens; 7.30am-8pm) Ballbusters has a nine-hole course (adult/child $18/12), minigolf ($11/8) and driving range (80 balls $11). A $40 golf package includes clubs, green fees, balls and tees. There’s also a baseball batting cage (bucket of balls $10).

Tours

Happy Ewe Tours CYCLING

( 022 622 9252; www.happyewetours.com; per person $35; 10am & 2pm) Saddle up for a three-hour, small-group bike tour of Rotorua, wheeling past 20 sights around the city. It’s all flat and slow-paced, so you don’t need to be at your physical peak (you’re on holiday after all).

Foris Eco Tours RAFTING, TRAMPING

( 0800 367 471; www.foris.co.nz; adult/child $169/99) Check out some ancient rainforest on a one-hour walk in Whirinaki Forest Park then raft along the easy-going Rangitaiki River on this full-day trip. Full-day walks also available. Includes lunch, pick-up/drop-off and lots of wildlife-spotting.

Rotorua Paddle Tours PADDLE BOARDING

( 0800 787 768; www.rotoruapaddletours.co.nz; tours from $90; 10am & 3pm) Keen to try stand-up paddle boarding without any waves to contend with? This outfit runs three-hour trips on Lake Rotoiti, Blue Lake and Lake Tarawera, with boundless beautiful scenery. No experience required.

Geyser Link Shuttle SIGHTSEEING

( 03-477 9083, 0800 304 333; www.travelheadfirst.com/local-legends/geyser-link-shuttle) Tours of some of the major sights, including Wai-O-Tapu (half-day adult/child $70/35) or Waimangu (half-day adult/child $70/35), or both (full day $120/60). Transport-only options available too.

Rotorua Duck Tours SIGHTSEEING

( 07-345 6522; adult/child/family $68/38/175; tours 11am, 1pm & 3.30pm Oct-Apr, 11am & 2.15pm May-Sep) Ninety-minute trips in an amphibious biofuelled vehicle taking in the major sites around town and heading out onto three lakes (Rotorua, Okareka and Tikitapu/Blue). Longer Lake Tarawera trips also available.

Elite Adventures SIGHTSEEING

( 07-347 8282; www.eliteadventures.co.nz; tours adult/child half-day $145/100, full day $240/170) Small-group tours covering a selection of Rotorua’s major cultural and natural highlights.

Thermal Land Shuttle SIGHTSEEING

( 0800 894 287; www.thermalshuttle.co.nz; tours adult/child from $33/65) Daily scheduled morning, afternoon and night tours around a selection of key sights, including Waimangu, Wai-O-Tapu, Te Puia and Rainbow Mountain. Transport-only options also available.

Mana Adventures CRUISE, KAYAKING

( 07-348 4186, 0800 333 660; www.manaadventures.co.nz; Lakefront; 9am-5pm) Down at the lake, Mana Adventures offers (weather permitting) rental pedal boats ($9/6 per adult/child per 20 minutes) and kayaks ($50/75 per hour/half-day). It also runs low-key, one-hour lake cruises ($55/39 per adult/child), trout-fishing charters and three-hour tours to Manupirua Hot Pools on nearby Lake Rotoiti ($95/75 per adult/child).

Volcanic Air Safaris SCENIC FLIGHTS

( 0800 800 848, 07-348 9984; www.volcanicair.co.nz; Lakefront; trips $95-915) A variety of floatplane and helicopter flights taking in Mt Tarawera and surrounding geothermal sites including Hell’s Gate, the Buried Village and Waimangu Volcanic Valley. A 3¼-hour Whakaari (White Island)/Mt Tarawera trip tops the price list.

Helipro SCENIC FLIGHTS

( 0800 435 477, 07-357 2515; www.helipro.co.nz; Hemo Rd; flights $99-940) Helipro plies the skies over Rotorua in nippy little red choppers (eight-minute city sightseeing flights $99), also extending to Mt Tarawera and as far as Whakaari (White Island). Landings in various places cost extra.

Lakeland Queen CRUISE

( 07-348 0265, 0800 572 784; www.lakelandqueen.com; Lakefront) The Lakeland Queen paddle steamer offers sedate one-hour Lake Rotorua breakfast cruises (adult/child $38/22.50), lunch cruises ($55/22.50) and Saturday-night summer dinners for big groups ($59/30).

Mokoia Island
Wai Ora Experiences CRUISE, CULTURAL TOUR

( 07-349 0976; www.mokoiaisland.co.nz; Lakefront; tours adult/child $75/38; 9.30am & 2pm) Visit Mokoia Island in the middle of Lake Rotorua on a 2½-hour Ultimate Island Experience tour, with wildlife-spotting, tales of the island, and a dip in the hot pool of Hinemoa. Minimum numbers may apply.

Sleeping

Rotorua has plenty of holiday parks and an ever-changing backpacker scene. Generic motels crowd Fenton St: better and more interesting rooms are away from the main drag.

Funky Green Voyager HOSTEL $

( 07-346 1754; www.funkygreenvoyager.co.nz; 4 Union St; dm from $25, d with/without bathroom $68/59; ) Green on the outside and the inside − due to several cans of paint and a dedicated environmental policy − the shoe-free Funky GV features laid-back tunes and plenty of sociable chat among a spunky bunch of guests and worldly-wise owners, who know what you want when you travel. The best doubles have bathrooms; dorms are roomy with quality mattresses and solid timber beds.

Rotorua Central Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 07-349 3285; www.rotoruacentralbackpackers.co.nz; 1076 Pukuatua St; dm from $25, tw & d $62; ) This heritage hostel was built in 1936 and retains historic features including dark-wood skirting boards and door frames, deep bath-tubs and geothermally powered radiators. Dorms have no more than six beds (and no bunks), plus there’s a spa pool and barbecue. Perfect if you’re not looking to party.

Waiteti Trout
Stream Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 0800 876 881, 07-357 5255; www.waiteti.com; 14 Okona Cres, Ngongotaha; campsites $36, dm from $25, d cabin/motel from $58/110; ) This well-maintained park is a great option if you don’t mind the 8km drive into town. Set in two tidy garden acres abutting a trout-filled stream, it’s a cute classic with character-filled motel units, compact cabins, a tidy backpackers lodge and beaut campsites by the stream. Free kayaks and dinghies; fly-fishing lessons from $30. And no sulphur smell!

Blarney’s Rock HOSTEL $

( 07-343 7904; www.blarneysrock.com; 1210 Tutanekai St; dm $20-27, d $50-60; ) You might expect a backpackers above an Irish pub to be effervescing with drunken antics. Sorry to disappoint: this one’s quiet, clean and comfy, with live-in managers who ensure the party stays downstairs. It’s a small, homey affair, with a little sunny deck, free wi-fi, free apple pie twice weekly and hot water bottles in your bed on chilly nights.

Rotorua YHA HOSTEL $

( 07-349 4088; www.yha.co.nz; 1278 Haupapa St; dm $26-35 d with/without bathroom $90/70; ) Bright and sparkling clean, this classy, purpose-built hostel is great for those wanting to get outdoors, with staff eager to assist with trip bookings, and storage for bikes and kayaks. Pricier rooms come with bathroom, and there’s a barbecue area and deck for hanging out on (though this ain’t a party pad). Off-street parking a bonus.

Crash Palace HOSTEL $

( 0800 892 727, 07-348 8842; www.crashpalace.co.nz; 1271 Hinemaru St; dm/s/d/f from $22/45/65/95; ) Crash occupies a big, mustard-coloured 1930s hotel near Government Gardens. The atmosphere strikes a balance between party and pristine, without too much of either. The nicest rooms have floorboards, and there’s lots of art on the walls, a pool table and DJ console in the lobby, and a beaut terrace out the back. Limited off-steet parking.

Astray MOTEL, HOSTEL $

( 0800 481 200, 07-348 1200; www.astray.co.nz; 1202 Pukuatua St; dm/s/d from $24/40/60, f $95-150; ) Even if you are 6′3′′, Astray – a ‘micro motel’ that would probably be more at home in Tokyo than Rotorua – is a decent bet. Clean, tidy, quiet, friendly and central: just don’t expect acres of space. Free wi-fi a bonus.

Rotorua Thermal
Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 07-346 3140; www.rotoruathermal.co.nz; 463 Old Taupo Rd; sites from $32, d cabins/units from $51/98; ) This super-friendly holiday park on the edge of town sits deep in the leisure groove, with barbecues, a playground, campsites galore, a shop and a cafe. There’s plenty of room and lots of trees and open grassy areas, plus hot mineral pools to soak the day away. Bike hire available.

Rock Solid Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 07-282 2053; www.rocksolidrotorua.co.nz; 1140 Hinemoa St; dm $19-25, d & tw $58; ) Cavernous, locally owned Rock Solid occupies a former shopping mall: you might be bunking down in a florist or a delicatessen. Dorms over the street are sunny, and there’s a big, bright kitchen. Downstairs is the Wall rock-climbing facility and the art-house Basement Cinema. Free wi-fi and pool table.

Rotorua Top 10 Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 0800 223 267, 07-348 1886; www.rotoruatop10.co.nz; 1495 Pukuatua St; campsites from $38, d cabin/motel from $80/125; ) A small but perfectly formed holiday park with a continual improvement policy that has seen a new playground, shower/toilet blocks and mineral hot pools installed. Cabins are in good nick and have small fridges and microwaves. Shrubberies and picnic tables aplenty.

Kiwi Paka HOSTEL $

( 07-347 0931; www.kiwipaka.co.nz; 60 Tarewa Rd; campsites from $15, dm/s/d $29/60/64, chalets with bathroom d/tr/q $87/107/147; ) This rambling complex is a 10-minute walk through Kuirau Park to town. The vibe is a bit ‘school camp’, with acceptable amenities and a range of accommodation from campsites to plain dorms, lodge rooms, three kitchens and two-storey pine-clad chalets. There’s a cafe and bar on site.

Base Rotorua HOSTEL $

( 0800 227 369, 07-348 8636; www.stayatbase.co.nz; 1286 Arawa St; dm/s/d from $25/70/70; ) A link in the Base chain, this huge hostel is ever-popular with partying backpackers who love the trashy Lava Bar (cheap meals, toga parties, wet T-shirt comps etc). Dorms can be tight (up to 12 beds), but extras such as girls-only rooms, en suites in most rooms, a thermally heated pool and campervan parking ($9 per person) compensate.

Tuscany Villas MOTEL $$

( 0800 802 050, 07-348 3500; www.tuscanyvillasrotorua.co.nz; 280 Fenton St; d from $145; ) With its Italian-inspired architecture and pointy conifers, this family-owned eye-catcher is the pick of the Fenton St motels. It pitches itself at both corporate and leisure travellers, all of who appreciate the plush furnishings, multiple TVs, DVD players and deep spa baths. Free wi-fi.

Six on Union MOTEL $$

( 0800 100 062, 07-347 8062; www.sixonunion.co.nz; 6 Union St; d/f from $105/145; ) Hanging baskets ahoy! This modest place is an affordable bonanza with pool and spa, and small kitchenettes in all units. Rooms are functional, and the new owners (from Yorkshire) keep the swimming-pool area in good nick. It’s away from traffic noise, but still an easy walk into town.

Sandi’s Bed & Breakfast B&B $$

( 07-348 0884, 0800 726 3422; www.sandisbedandbreakfast.co.nz; 103 Fairy Springs Rd; s/d/f incl breakfast $85/130/160; ) A friendly, family B&B run by the well-humoured Sandi who offers local advice with a ready smile. It’s on a busy road a couple of kilometres north of town, so the best bets are the two bohemian chalets out the back with TV and plenty of room to move.

Victoria Lodge MOTEL $$

( 0800 100 039, 07-348 4039; www.victorialodge.co.nz; 10 Victoria St; d/apt from $115/160; ) The friendly Vic has seen a lot of competitors come and go, maintaining its foothold in the market with individual-feeling apartments and studios with thermally heated plunge pools. Fully equipped, freshly painted apartments can squeeze in seven, though four would be comfortable.

Ann’s Volcanic Motel MOTEL $$

( 0800 768 683, 07-347 1007; www.rotoruamotel.co.nz; 107 Malfroy Rd; d/1-bedroom/2-bedroom from $95/129/209; ) Ann’s is an affordable motel with an ever-friendly host offering loads of local advice. Larger rooms feature courtyard spas and facilities for travellers with disabilities, with a house next door available for big groups (sleeps nine). Rooms close to the street can be a tad noisy.

Regent of Rotorua BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$

( 0508 734 368, 07-348 4079; www.regentrotorua.co.nz; 1191 Pukaki St; d/ste from $169/239; ) Wow! It’s about time Rotorua showed some slumbering style, and the Regent (a renovated 1960s motel) delivers. ‘The ’60s were a glamorous time to travel’, say the owners: the decor follows suit, with hip black-and-white tones, funky mirrors, retro wallpaper and colourful splashes. There’s a pool and restaurant, the Tutanekai St eateries are an amble away, and there’s a whole new wing of rooms next door. Terrific value.

Millennium Hotel HOTEL $$$

( 07-347 1234; www.millenniumrotorua.co.nz; cnr Eruera & Hinemaru Sts; d from $200; ) The slick Maori-inspired lobby sets the scene for this elegant five-storey motel. Lakefront rooms afford excellent views as does the club lounge, popular with the suits and internationalists swanning about. The poolside hangi is fab, as is the in-house restaurant Nikau. Advance booking rates slip into midrange territory.

Eating

The lake end of Tutanekai St – known as Eat Street – has a strip of eateries beneath a new roof, but there are plenty of other options around town.

Mistress of Cakes BAKERY $

(www.mistressofcakes.co.nz; 1224 Eruera St; items $4-8; 7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) ‘Food that your grandmother made’ is the slogan here, but we bet your Grandma couldn’t bake a lemon passionfruit meringue like the ones the Mistress makes! Fab muffins, slices, biscuits, scones and quiches too, all home-made with local ingredients.

Fish & Chip Shop FISH & CHIPS $

( 07-343 7400; 47 Lake Rd; meals $5-15; 11am-8pm Mon-Thu, 11am-8.30pm Fri-Sun) What you see is what you get: top-notch takeaway fish and chips from this little sky-blue shopfront out near Ohinemutu.

Weilin’s Noodle House NOODLES, CHINESE $

( 07-343 9998; 1148 Tutanekai St; mains $9-25; noon-3pm & 5-9pm Wed-Mon) A neat and tidy shop serving traditional (and refreshingly un-fatty/salty/stodgy) Chinese dumplings and oodles of noodles in soups and stir-fries. Eat in or take away. Try the noodles with spicy pork and peanuts.

Pak ‘n Save SUPERMARKET $

(www.paknsave.co.nz; cnr Fenton & Amohau Sts; 7.30am-10pm) On the downtown fringe.

Third Place Cafe CAFE $$

( 07-349 4852; www.thirdplacecafe.co.nz; 36 Lake Rd; mains $12-18; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat) A really interesting cafe away from the hubbub, Third Place has leapfrogged into first by our reckoning. All-day breakfast/brunch sidesteps neatly between chicken jambalaya, fish and chips, and an awesome ‘mumble jumble’ of crushed kumara (sweet potato), green tomatoes and spicy chorizo topped with bacon, poached egg and hollandaise sauce. Hangover? What hangover? Slide into a red-leather couch or score a window seat overlooking Ohinemutu.

Abracadabra Cafe Bar MIDDLE EASTERN, CAFE $$

( 07-348 3883; www.abracadabracafe.com; 1363 Amohia St; mains $19-30; 8.30am-11pm Tue-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat, 9am-3pm Sun) Wedged somewhere between Mexico and Morocco, Abracadabra is a magical cave of spicy delights, from beef-and-apricot tagine to king-prawn fajitas and Tijuana pork chilli. Conjure up your own ‘Day of the Dead’ (tomorrow) with a tour though the dedicated tequila menu. Beaut beer terrace out the back.

Sabroso LATIN AMERICAN $$

( 07-349 0591; www.sabroso.co.nz; 1184 Haupapa St; mains $18-29; 5-9pm Thu-Mon) What a surprise! This modest Latin American cantina − adorned with sombreros, guitars, hessian tablecloths and salt-and-pepper shakers made from Corona bottles − serves adventurous south-of-the-border fare to spice up bland Kiwi palates. The black-bean chilli is a knockout (as are the margaritas).

Lime Caffeteria CAFE $$

( 07-350 2033; cnr Fenton & Whakaue Sts; mains $13-24; 7.30am-4.30pm; ) Occupying a quiet corner near the lake, this zesty cafe offers alfresco breakfasts and dishes with a welcome twist: try the chicken-and-chorizo salad or prawn-and-salmon risotto in lime sauce. Classy counter snacks and excellent coffee, too. ‘This is the best lunch I’ve had in ages’, says one happy punter.

Indian Star INDIAN $$

( 07-343 6222; www.indianstar.co.nz; 1118 Tutanekai St; mains $14-22; 11am-2pm & 5pm-late; ) This is one of several Indian eateries around town, elevating itself above the competition with immaculate service and marvellous renditions of subcontinental classics. It has sizeable portions and good vegetarian selections (try the chickpea masala). Book for dinner.

Leonardo’s ITALIAN $$

( 07-347 7084; www.leonardospureitalian.nznic.biz; 1176 Pukaki St; mains $22-32.50; 5-10pm Mon-Thu, 11.30am-2pm & 5-10pm Fri-Sun) Not far from the lake in an unpretentious shopfront, Leonardo’s goes heavy on the hokey ‘just like mama used to make’ marketing, but what comes out of the kitchen is far from kitsch. Try the simple but perfect gnocchi with tomato, mozzarella and pesto, or the angel-hair pasta with mussels and anchovies.

Capers Epicurean CAFE, DELICATESSEN $$

( 07-348 8818; www.capers.co.nz; 1181 Eruera St; mains breakfast & lunch $7-23, dinner $27-32; 7.30am-9pm; ) This slick, barnlike cafe is perennially busy, with diners perusing cabinets full of delicious gourmet sandwiches, pastries, salads and cakes, and the excellent blackboard menu of breakfasts and other tasty hot foods (try the pork belly with pumpkin dumplings). The deli section is stocked with olive oils, marinades, relishes, jams and chocolates.

Urbano Bistro MODERN NZ, CAFE $$

( 07-349 3770; www.urbanobistro.co.nz; cnr Fenton & Grey Sts; mains breakfast & lunch $14-21, dinner $24-43; 9am-11pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun) This hip suburban diner, with mega-checkerboard carpet and curvy wallpaper, is a bold move by reputable local restaurateurs. Try the beef, pineapple and kumara curry – rich in flavour and well executed. Fine wines and five-star service to boot.

Fat Dog Cafe & Bar CAFE $$

( 07-347 7586; 1161 Arawa St; mains breakfast & lunch $12-23, dinner $28-30; 7am-9pm; ) With paw prints and silly poems painted on the walls, this is the town’s friskiest and most child-friendly cafe. During the day it dishes up burgers (try the Dogs Bollox version), nachos, salads and sandwiches; in the evening it’s candlelit lamb and venison. Takeway caffeine in the shopfront next door.

Bistro 1284 MODERN NZ $$$

( 07-346 1284; www.bistro1284.co.nz; 1284 Eruera St; mains $35-39; 5pm-late) A fine-dining hot spot on an unremarkable stretch of Eruera St, this intimate place (all chocolate and mushroom colours) serves stylish NZ cuisine with an Asian influence. The lamb is always good, but be sure to leave room for the delectable desserts.

Drinking & Entertainment

Brew BAR, CRAFT BEER

(www.brewpub.co.nz; 1103 Tutanekai St; 4pm-late Mon-Thu, noon-late Fri, 11am-late Sat & Sun) Run by the lads from Croucher Brewing Co, Rotorua’s best microbrewers, Brew sits in a sunny spot on Rotorua’s main eat-street. Sip down a pint of fruity pale ale, aromatic drunken hop bitter or malty pilsener and wonder how you’ll manage a sleep-in tomorrow morning. Good coffee and pizzas, plus Friday DJs and Tuesday open-mike nights.

Pig & Whistle PUB, BREWERY

(www.pigandwhistle.co.nz; cnr Haupapa & Tutanekai Sts; 11am-late) Inside a former police station, this busy microbrewery-pub serves up Swine lager, big-screen TVs, a beer garden and live music Thursday to Saturday, plus solid grub (mains $19 to $32). The menu runs the gamut from crispy pork-belly salad to burgers and vegetarian nachos.

Belgian Bar BAR, LIVE MUSIC

(www.facebook.com/pages/belgian-bar/137762819598058; 1151 Arawa St; 4pm-late Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat & Sun) The best bar in town for lovers of gigs and good beer. Half a dozen Euro-beers on tap and 42 in the bottle accompany regular blues and acoustic acts (‘Clapton is God’ is spraypainted behind the stage). Garden bar out the back.

Basement Cinema CINEMA

( 07-350 1400; www.basementcinema.co.nz; 1140 Hinemoa St; tickets $14.50; noon-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun) Part of the same complex as the Wall rock-climbing gym, the Basement screens offbeat, foreign-language and art-house flicks.

DON'T MISS

Maori Concerts & Hangi

Maori culture is a big-ticket item in Rotorua and, although it is commercialised, it’s a great opportunity to learn about the indigenous culture of NZ. The two big activities are concerts and hangi feasts, often packaged together in an evening’s entertainment featuring the famous hongi (Maori greeting; the pressing of foreheads and noses, and sharing of life breath) and haka and poi dances.

An established favourite, Tamaki Maori Village OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 07-349 2999; www.maoriculture.co.nz; booking office 1220 Hinemaru St; adult/child/family $110/20-60/250; tours depart 5pm, 6.15pm & 7.30pm Nov-Apr, 6.15pm May-Oct) does an excellent twilight tour to a marae (meeting house) and Maori village 15km south of Rotorua. Buses collect from the Hinemaru St booking office and local accommodation. The experience is very hands-on, taking you on an interactive journey through Maori history, arts, traditions and customs from pre-European times to the present day. The concert is followed by an impressive hangi.

The family-run Mitai Maori Village OFFLINE MAP ( 07-343 9132; www.mitai.co.nz; 196 Fairy Springs Rd; adult/child/family $111/21.50-55/290; 6.30pm) offers a popular three-hour evening event with a concert, hangi and glowworm bushwalk. The experience can be combined with a tour (adult/child $150/75) of Hells Gate thermal reserve (Click here) , or a tour ($126/67) of Ohinemutu (Click here) Maori village. Pick-ups available.

Te Puia (Click here) and Whakarewarewa Thermal Village (Click here) also put on shows, and many of the big hotels offer mainstream Maori concerts and hangi, including the following:

Copthorne Hotel Rotorua OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 07-348 0199; www.millenniumhotels.co.nz; 328 Fenton St; concert adult/child $25/15, incl hangi $55/25.25)

Holiday Inn Rotorua OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 0800 476 488, 07-348 1189; www.holidayinnrotorua.co.nz/cultural-show.php; cnr Froude & Tryon Sts; concerts & hangi adult/child $69/34.50)

Millennium Hotel Rotorua OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 07-347 1234; www.millenniumrotorua.co.nz; cnr Eruera & Hinemaru Sts; concerts adult/child $30/15, incl hangi $70/35)

Novotel Rotorua OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 07-346 3888; www.novotelrotorua.co.nz; 11 Tutanekai St; concerts adult/child $39/18, incl hangi $69/19)

Shopping

South of town, Te Puia and Whakarewarewa Thermal Village have excellent selections of genuine Maori-made arts.

Rotorua Night Market MARKET

(www.rotoruanightmarket.co.nz; Tutanekai St; 5pm-late Thu) Tutanekai St is closed off on Thursday nights between Haupapa and Pukuatua Sts to allow the Rotorua Night Market to spread its wings. Expect local arts and crafts, souvenirs, cheesy buskers, coffee, wine and plenty of deli-style food stalls for dinner.

Mountain Jade ARTS & CRAFTS, JEWELLERY

(www.mountainjade.co.nz; 1288 Fenton St; 9am-6pm) High-end hand-crafted greenstone jewellery and carvings. You can watch the carvers at work through the streetside window.

Out of New Zealand ARTS & CRAFTS, JEWELLERY

(1189 Fenton St; 10am-6pm, to 9pm Dec-Mar) Stocks NZ-made craft and gifts including carvings, ceramics and jewellery: affordable, packable souvenirs.

Information

There are plenty of ATMs around town. Most banks offer currency exchange.

Lakes Care Medical ( 07-348 1000; 1165 Tutanekai St; 8am-10pm) Urgent medical care.

Police ( 111, non-emergency 07-349 9400; 1190 Fenton St; 24hr)

Post Office (cnr Tutanekai & Pukuatua Sts; 8am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

Rotorua Hospital ( 07-348 1199; www.lakesdhb.govt.nz; Arawa St; 24hr) Round-the-clock medical care.

Rotorua i-SITE ( 0800 768 678, 07-348 5179; www.rotoruanz.com; 1167 Fenton St; 7.30am-7pm Sep-May, reduced hours Jun-Aug) The hub for travel information and bookings, including Department of Conservation (DOC) walks. Also has an exchange bureau, a cafe, showers and lockers.

Getting There & Away

Air

Rotorua Airport ( 07-345 8800; www.rotorua-airport.co.nz; SH30; ) is 10km northeast of town. Air New Zealand ( 07-343 1100; www.airnewzealand.co.nz; 1267 Tutanekai St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri) has direct flights between Rotorua and Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch, plus Sydney (every Tuesday and Saturday).

Bus

All the major bus companies stop outside the Rotorua i-SITE, from where you can arrange bookings.

InterCity destinations include the following:

Destination	Price ($)	Duration (Hr)	Frequency (Daily)
Auckland	55	3½	7
Gisborne	64	4½	1
Hamilton	40	1½	5
Napier	60	4	1
Taupo	32	1	4
Tauranga	25	1½	2
Wellington	65	7	5
Whakatane	35	1½	1

Naked Bus services include the following:

Destination	Price ($)	Duration (Hr)	Frequency (Daily)
Auckland	15	4	3
Gisborne	19	4¾	1
Hamilton	10	1½	3
Napier	18	3	3
Taupo	10	1	3
Tauranga	10	1½	3
Wellington	19	8	1
Whakatane	14	1½	1

Twin City Express buses run twice daily Monday to Friday between Rotorua and Tauranga/Mt Maunganui via Te Puke ($11.60, 1½ hours).

White Island Shuttle ( 0800 733 529, 07-308 9588; www.whiteisland.co.nz; one way/return $35/60) , run by White Island Tours in Whakatane, operates return shuttles to Whakatane from Rotorua. It’s ostensibly for tour customers, but you can use the service without taking the tour.

Getting Around

To/From the Airport

Super Shuttle ( 0800 748 885, 09-522 5100; www.supershuttle.co.nz) offers a door-to-door airport service for $21 for the first person then $5 per additional passenger. Baybus ( 0800 422 928; www.baybus.co.nz) runs a daily airport bus service ($2.50). A taxi to/from the city centre costs about $25.

Bus

Many local attractions offer free pick-up/drop-off shuttle services. Shuttle services are also available to/from outlying attractions – Click here .

Baybus operates local bus services around town, and also to Ngongotaha (route 1, $2.50) and the airport (route 10, $2.50).

Car

The big-name car-hire companies vie for your attention at Rotorua Airport. Otherwise, try Rent a Dent ( 07-349 3993; 39 Fairy Springs Rd; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon Sat) .

Taxi

Rotorua Taxis ( 07-348 1111; www.rotoruataxis.co.nz)

Around Rotorua

North of Rotorua

Sights & Activities

Rainbow Springs WILDLIFE RESERVE

12Wingspan National Bird of Prey CentreA3

( 0800 724 626; www.rainbowsprings.co.nz; 192 Fairy Springs Rd; 24hr pass adult/child/family $40/20/99; 8.30am-late) About 3km north of central Rotorua, Rainbow Springs is a family-friendly winner. The natural springs here are home to wild trout and eels, which you can peer at through an underwater viewer. There are interpretive walkways, a new ‘Big Splash’ water ride, and plenty of animals, including tuatara (a native lizard) and native birds (kea, kaka and pukeko).

A highlight is the Kiwi Encounter, which offers a rare peek into the lives of these endangered birds: excellent 30-minute tours (an extra $10 per person) have you tiptoeing through incubator and hatchery areas.

Around Rotorua

Sights

1 Agrodome A3

2 Buried Village C5

3 Hells Gate & Wai Ora Spa C2

4 Rainbow Springs A3

5 Redwoods Gift Shop & Visitor Centre B4

6 Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest B4

7 Te Puia A4

8The LandingC4

9Waimangu Volcanic ValleyC6

10Wai-O-Tapu Thermal WonderlandC7

11Whakarewarewa Thermal VillageB4

Activities, Courses & Tours

Agroventures (see 13)

13 aMAZEme A3

14 Clearwater Cruises C5

15 Farmhouse A2

16 Hamurana Springs A2

Helipro (see 7)

17 Mountain Bike Rotorua A4

Ogo (see 20)

18 Planet Bike B4

19 Rotorua Canopy Tours A4

20 Skyline Rotorua A3

21 Waikite Valley Thermal Pools B6

22 Zorb A3

Sleeping

23 Ann's Volcanic Motel A4

24 Blue Lake Top 10 Holiday Park B4

25Hot Water Beach CampsiteD5

26 Kiwi Paka A3

27Rotorua Thermal Holiday ParkA4

28 Rotorua Top 10 Holiday Park A3

29 Sandi's Bed & Breakfast A3

30Tarawera Outlet CampsiteD4

31 Tuscany Villas A4

32Waiteti Trout Stream Holiday ParkA3

Eating

Urbano Bistro (see 31)

Entertainment

33 Copthorne Hotel Rotorua A4

Holiday Inn Rotorua (see 33)

Mitai Maori Village (see 20)

Wingspan National
Bird of Prey Centre WILDLIFE CENTRE

( 07-357 4469; www.wingspan.co.nz; 1164 Paradise Valley Rd, Ngongotaha; adult/child $25/8; 9am-3pm) Wingspan is dedicated to conserving three threatened NZ birds: the falcon, the hawk and the owl. Learn about the birds in the museum display, then take a sneaky peek into the incubation area before walking through the all-weather aviary. Don’t miss the 2pm flying display.

Paradise Valley Springs WILDLIFE RESERVE

( 07-348 9667; www.paradisevalleysprings.co.nz; 467 Paradise Valley Rd; adult/child $30/15; 8am-dusk) In Paradise Valley at the foot of Mt Ngongotaha, 8km from Rotorua, is Paradise Valley Springs, a 6-hectare park with trout springs, big slippery eels and various land-dwelling animals such as deer, alpacas, possums and a pride of lions (fed at 2.30pm). There’s also a coffee shop and an elevated treetop walkway.

Agrodome AGRICULTURAL

( 07-357 1050; www.agrodome.co.nz; 141 Western Rd, Ngongotaha; 1hr tour adult/child/family $41/20/84.50, 1hr show $31/15.50/79.50, tour & show $51/25.50/118.50; 8.30am-5pm, shows 9.30am, 11am & 2.30pm, tours 10.40am, 12.10pm, 1.30pm & 3.40pm) Learn everything you need to know about sheep at the educational Agrodome. Shows include a parade of champion rams, a livestock auction, and shearing and doggy displays. The tour lets you check out farm animals including, among others, sheep. Other agro-attractions include a shearing-shed museum and cafe.

aMAZEme MAZE

( 07-357 5759; www.amazeme.co.nz; 1335 Paradise Valley Rd, Ngongotaha; adult/child/family $16/9/45; 9am-5pm) This amazing 1.4km maze is constructed from immaculately pruned, head-high escallonia hedge. Lose yourself (or the kids) in the endless spirals.

Northeast of Rotorua

Sights & Activities

Hells Gate & Wai Ora Spa VOLCANIC AREA, SPA

( 07-345 3151; www.hellsgate.co.nz; SH30, Tikitere; admission adult/child/family $35/17.50/85, mud bath & spa $75/35/185, massage per 30/60min $85/130; 8.30am-8.30pm) Known as Tikitere to the Maori, Hells Gate is an impressive geothermal reserve 16km northeast of Rotorua on the Whakatane road (SH30). Tikitere is an abbreviation of Taku tiki i tere nei (My youngest daughter has floated away), remembering the tragedy of a young girl jumping into a thermal pool. The English name originates from a 1934 visit by George Bernard Shaw. The reserve covers 10 hectares, with a 2.5km walking track to the various attractions, including a hot thermal waterfall. You can also see a master woodcarver at work, and learn about flax weaving and other Maori traditions.

Long regarded by Maori as a place of healing, Tikitere also houses the Wai Ora Spa, where you can get muddy with a variety of treatments. A courtesy shuttle to/from Rotorua is available.

Southeast of Rotorua

Sights & Activities

Redwoods Whakarewarewa Forest FOREST

(www.redwoods.co.nz; Long Mile Rd, off Tarawera Rd; 5.30am-8.30pm) This magical forest park is 3km southeast of town on Tarawera Rd. It was originally home to over 170 tree species (a few less now), planted from 1899 to see which could be grown successfully for timber. Radiata pine proved a hit (as evident throughout NZ), but it’s the mighty Californian redwoods that give the park its grandeur today.

Clearly signposted walking tracks range from a half-hour wander through the Redwood Grove to an enjoyable whole-day route to the Blue and Green Lakes. Most walks start from the Redwoods Gift Shop & Visitor Centre OFFLINE MAP ( 07-350 0110; www.redwoods.co.nz; Long Mile Rd, off Tarawera Rd; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar, 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun Apr-Sep) , where you can get maps and view displays about the forest. Aside from walking, the park is great for picnics and acclaimed for its accessible mountain biking. Mountain Bike Rotorua (Click here) and Planet Bike (Click here) offer bike hire, across the park off Waipa State Mill Rd.

Buried Village ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE, MUSEUM

( 07-362 8287; www.buriedvillage.co.nz; 1180 Tarawera Rd; adult/child/family $35/10/66; 9am-5pm Nov-Mar, to 4.30pm Apr-Oct) Fifteen kilometres from Rotorua on Tarawera Rd, beyond the pretty Blue and Green Lakes, is the buried village of Te Wairoa, interred by the eruption of Mt Tarawera in 1886. Te Wairoa was the staging post for travellers coming to see the Pink and White Terraces. Today a museum houses objects dug from the ruins, and guides in period costume escort groups through the excavated sites. There’s also a walk to the 30m Te Wairoa Falls and a teahouse if you’re feeling more sedate.

Lake Tarawera LAKE

(www.doc.govt.nz; Tarawera Rd) Tarawera means ‘Burnt Spear’, named by a visiting hunter who left his bird spears in a hut and on returning the following season found both the spears and hut had been burnt. The lake is picturesque and good for swimming, fishing, cruises and walks.

A good place to access the lake is at the Landing OFFLINE MAP , about 2km past the Buried Village. Here you’ll find Clearwater Cruises OFFLINE MAP ( 027 362 8590, 07-345 6688; www.clearwater.co.nz; per hr cruise vessel/self-drive runabout $550/140) , which runs scenic cruises and self-drive boat options aboard a variety of vessels. Also here is the Landing Café (www.thelandinglaketarawera.co.nz; mains $15-30; 10am-late) , serving hearty mains like lamb rump and seafood chowder with beaut lake views. Also at the Landing is Lake Tarawera Water Taxi & Eco Tours ( 07-362 8080; www.ecotoursrotorua.co.nz; 1375 Tarawera Rd; from $55) , which can take you anywhere on the lake, at any time: a trip to Hot Water Beach is $55.

There’s a privately run camping ground (boat access only; bookings required) at Hot Water Beach OFFLINE MAP ( 07-349 3463; www.whakarewarewa.com/tarawera; adult/child $10/5) , and a DOC-managed site at Tarawera Outlet OFFLINE MAP ( 07-323 6300; www.doc.govt.nz; adult/child $6/3) . The Blue Lake Top 10 Holiday Park OFFLINE MAP ( 0800 808 292, 07-362 8120; www.bluelaketop10.co.nz; 723 Tarawera Rd; campsites from $21, cabins $73-120, units $125-180; ) offers camping next to the Blue Lake (good for swimming and kayaking), 6km before you get to Lake Tarawera; well run, it has spotless facilities and a handy range of cabins.

WORTH A TRIP

WHIRINAKI FOREST PARK

This lush podocarp (conifer) forest park is 90km southeast of Rotorua off SH38, en route to Te Urewera National Park (take the turn-off at Te Whaiti to Minginui). Also here are canyons, waterfalls, lookouts and streams, plus the Oriuwaka Ecological Area and Arahaki Lagoon .

Walking tracks here vary in length and difficulty: the DOC booklet Walks in Whirinaki Forest ($2.50) details walking and camping options. Pick one up at DOC’s Murupara visitor centre ( 07-366 1080; www.doc.govt.nz; SH38, Murupara; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri).

A good short walk is the Whirinaki Waterfalls Track (four hours return), which follows the Whirinaki River. Longer walks include the Whirinaki Track (two days), which can be combined with Te Hoe Track (four days). There’s also a rampaging 16km mountain bike track here.

There are several accessible camping areas and 10 backcountry huts (free to $15) in the park; pay at the DOC office.

South of Rotorua

Sights & Activities

Waimangu
Volcanic Valley VOLCANIC AREA, SPRING

( 07-366 6137; www.waimangu.com; 587 Waimangu Rd; adult/child walking tour $34.50/11, boat cruise $42.50/11; 8.30am-5pm daily, to 6pm Jan, last admission 3.30pm, 4.30pm Jan) This interesting thermal area was created during the eruption of Mt Tarawera in 1886 – geologically young! Waimangu (Black Water) refers to the dark, muddy colour of much of the water here.

The easy downhill stroll through the valley passes spectacular thermal and volcanic features, including Inferno Crater Lake, where overflowing water can reach 80°C, and Frying Pan Lake, the largest hot spring in the world. The walk continues down to Lake Rotomahana (meaning ‘Warm Lake’), from where you can either get a shuttle ride back up to where you started or take a 45-minute boat trip on the lake, past steaming cliffs and the former site of the Pink and White Terraces.

Waimangu is 20 minutes south of Rotorua, 14km along SH5 (towards Taupo) and then 6km from the marked turn-off.

Wai-O-Tapu Thermal
Wonderland VOLCANIC AREA, GEYSER

( 07-366 6333; www.waiotapu.co.nz; 201 Waiotapu Loop Rd, off SH5; adult/child/family $32.50/11/80; 8.30am-5pm, last admission 3.45pm) Wai-O-Tapu (Sacred Waters) is a fairly commercial operation with a lot of interesting geothermal features packed into a small area, including the boiling, multihued Champagne Pool, bubbling mud pool, stunning mineral terraces and Lady Knox Geyser, which spouts off (with a little prompting from an organic soap) punctually at 10.15am and gushes up to 20m for about an hour (be here by 9.45am to see it).

Wai-O-Tapu is 27km south of Rotorua along SH5 (towards Taupo), and a further 2km from the marked turn-off.

Waikite Valley Thermal Pools SWIMMING

( 07-333 1861; www.hotpools.co.nz; 648 Waikite Valley Rd; public pools adult/child/family $15/8/38, private pools 40min $18; 10am-9pm) Around 35km south of Rotorua are these excellent open-air pools, formalised in the 1970s but utilised for centuries before then. There are four main pools, two more relaxing, smaller pools, and four private spas, all ranging from 35°C to 40°C. There’s also a cafe and camping (adult/child unpowered sites $20/10, powered sites $22/12; pools free for campers).

To get here, turn right off SH5 opposite the Wai-O-Tapu turn-off, and continue 6km (worth the drive if only for the gorgeous valley view as you come over the hill).

Bay of Plenty

The Bay of Plenty stretches along the pohutukawa-studded coast from Waihi Beach to Opotiki and inland as far as the Kaimai Range. This is where New Zealanders have come on holiday for generations, lapping up salt-licked activities and lashings of sunshine.