Getting There & Around

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnz.co.nz) flies between Westport and Wellington, and Hokitika and Christchurch.

Coaches and shuttle transport – while not very frequent – are reliable, and reach pretty much everywhere you might like to go including Nelson, Christchurch and Queenstown. Major and extensive networks are operated by Atomic Travel ( 03-349 0697, 0508 108 359; www.atomictravel.co.nz) , InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) and Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) , while West Coast Shuttle ( 03-768 0028, 0274 927 000; www.westcoastshuttle.co.nz) runs a daily service between Greymouth and Christ­church. Local shuttle operators go here and there.

The TranzAlpine (Click here), one of the world’s great train journeys, links Greymouth and Christchurch.

Buller Region

Coming from the east, Murchison is the gateway to the northern West Coast. From there, State Hwy 6 snakes through Buller Gorge, a journey that could easily take a day or two by the time you’ve taken a rafting or jetboating trip, explored Lyell, and stopped at other interesting sites along the way.

Your big decision is which way to head when you reach the forks at Inangahua. Continuing west along SH6 through the Lower Buller Gorge will lead you to Westport, the gateway to the far north. Head south from Inangahua on SH69 and you skip Punakaiki but reach Reefton, where you can either head west to the coast at Greymouth, or east over the Lewis Pass to Hanmer Springs. You can also cut directly through to the Lewis Pass via SH65, 10km west of Murchison.

Murchison & Buller Gorge

Murchison (population 490), 125km southwest of Nelson and 95km east of Westport, lies on the ‘Four Rivers Plain’. In fact there aren’t just four but multitudinous rivers, the mightiest being the Buller, which runs alongside the town. White-water sports and trout fishing are popular here, while the surrounding forested hills dish up adventure for the landlubbers.

Sights & Activities

Ask at the Murchison visitor centre ( 03-523 9350; www.nelsonnz.com; 47 Waller St; 10am-6pm Oct-May, reduced hours Apr-Sep) for a copy of the Murchison District Map , which features local walks, such as the Skyline, Six Mile and Johnson Creek tracks, plus mountain-bike rides. Staff can also hook you up with trout-fishing guides.

Murchison Museum MUSEUM

(60 Fairfax St; admission by donation; 10am-4pm) This museum showcases all sorts of local memorabilia, the most interesting of which relate to the 1929 and 1968 earthquakes.

Wild Rivers Rafting RAFTING

( 050 846 7238; www.wildriversrafting.co.nz; 2hr rafting adult/child $130/85) White-water rafting with Bruce and Marty on the particularly exciting Earthquake Rapids section of the beautiful Buller River (good luck with ‘gunslinger’ and the ‘pop-up toaster’!).

Ultimate Descents RAFTING

( 03-523 9899, 0800 748 377; www.rivers.co.nz; 38 Waller St; 2hr rafting $130, half-day kayaking $125) Offers white-water rafting and kayaking trips on the Buller, including half-day, gentler family excursions (adult/child $115/95). Helirafting trips by arrangement from their new base in Murchison.

Natural Flames Experience ECO TOUR

( 0800 687 244; www.naturalflames.co.nz; adult/child $85/65) An enjoyable, informative half-day 4WD and bushwalking tour through remote valleys and beech forest to a hot spot amongst the trees and ferns, where natural gas seeping out of the ground has been burning since 1922. Boil a billy on the flames and cook pancakes before returning to civilisation.

Buller Gorge Swingbridge BRIDGE

( 0800 285 537; www.bullergorge.co.nz; SH6; bridge crossing adult/child $5/2; 8am-7pm Dec-Apr, 9am-5pm May-Nov) About 14km west of Murchison is NZ’s longest swingbridge (110m), across which lie short walks taking in the White Creek Faultline, epicentre of the 1929 earthquake. Coming back, ride the 160m Cometline Flying Fox, either seated (adult/child $30/15) or ‘Supaman’ ($45, or tandem adult/child $30/15).

Buller Canyon Jet JETBOATING

( 03-523 9883; www.bullercanyonjet.co.nz; SH6; adult/child $95/50; Sep-Apr) Launching from Buller Gorge Swingbridge is one of NZ’s most scenic and best-value jetboat trips – 40 minutes of ripping through the beautiful Buller with a good-humoured captain.

Sleeping & Eating

Murchison has a few cafes, a couple of grocery stores, and a butchery curing notable bacon.

Kiwi Park Motels
& Holiday Park MOTEL, HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-523 9248, 0800 228 080; www.kiwipark.co.nz; 170 Fairfax St; unpowered/powered sites from $20/25, cabins $65-85, motels $140-225; ) This leafy park on the edge of town has plenty of accommodation options, from a campervan and tent area graced with mature trees, through to basic cabins, and roomy motels nestled amongst the blooms. Cheery hosts and a menagerie of friendly farm animals make this one happy family.

Lazy Cow HOSTEL $

( 03-523 9451; www.lazycow.co.nz; 37 Waller St; dm $30, d $74-90; ) It’s easy to be a lazy cow here, with all the comforts of home including cosy bedrooms and a sunny backyard. Guests are welcomed with free muffins or cake, and there are freshly cooked evening meals available on evenings when the hosts aren’t running their popular onsite Cow Shed ( 6-9pm Thurs-Sat) restaurant.

Commercial Hotel HOTEL $

( 03-523 9696; www.commercialhotel.co.nz; cnr Waller & Fairfax Sts; s/d/tr $40/75/100; 8am-8.30pm; ) This sunny corner pub with super street-appeal meets required standards in its dining room, and features a bar with a pool table, appealing outdoor tables, and solid pub grub (mains $14 to $29). Down the checkerboard-and-crimson hallway is a series of cheap but charming bedrooms sharing bathrooms and a cupboard-sized kitchen.

Murchison Lodge B&B $$

( 03-523 9196, 0800 523 9196; www.murchisonlodge.co.nz; 15 Grey St; s incl breakfast $150-210, d incl breakfast $175-235; closed May-Aug; ) Surrounded by native trees, this B&B is within a short walk of the Buller River; the owners’ friendly dog will probably accompany you. Attractive timber features, quality artwork and charming hosts add to the comfortable feel. Home-reared bacon and eggs for breakfast, plus evening meals by arrangement.

Information

There is no ATM in town; the postal agency is on Fairfax St.

The Murchison Visitor Centre (Click here) has info on local activities and transport.

Getting There & Away

Buses passing through Murchison between the West Coast and Nelson/Picton are InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) and Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) , both of which stop at Beechwoods Cafe on Waller St, as does Trek Express ( 0272 221 872, 0800 128 735; www.trekexpress.co.nz), which runs frequently between Nelson and the Wangapeka/Heaphy Tracks during the peak tramping season.

Reefton

Pop 1030

For generations, Reefton’s claims to fame have been mining and its early adoption of the electricity grid and street lighting. Hence the tagline, ‘the city of light’. Today, however, it’s a different story, one which starts – improbably – with the building of the world-class Roller Park, which attracts stunt-lovers from all corners of NZ. To quote a local, ‘it’s more than we deserve’. We disagree. If this many volunteers and sponsors are prepared to build such an edgy civic amenity in a town that still looks like the set of Bonanza, we suggest there’s something a little bit special about this crazy little town.

Sights & Activities

With loads of crusty old buildings situated within a 200-metre radius, Reefton is a fascinating town for a stroll. To find out who lived where and why, undertake the short Heritage Walk outlined in the Historic Reefton leaflet ($1), available from the i-SITE (Click here), from where you can also collect the free Reefton leaftlet detailing other short walks including the Bottled Lightning Powerhouse Walk (40 minutes).

Surrounding Reefton is the 2060-sq-km Victoria Forest Park (NZ’s largest forest park), which sports diverse flora and fauna as well as hidden historic sites such as the old goldfields around Blacks Point. Starting (or ending) at Blacks Point, the enjoyable Murray Creek Track takes five hours round trip.

Other tramps in the Forest Park include the three-day Kirwans or two-day Big River Track, both of which can be traversed on a mountain bike. Pick up the free Reefton Mountain Biking (‘the best riding in history’) leaflet for more information; bikes can be hired from Reefton Sports Centre ( 03-732 8593; 56 Broadway; bike hire per day $30) , where you can also inquire about the legendary trout fishing in the environs.

Blacks Point Museum MUSEUM

(Blacks Point, SH7; adult/child/family $5/3/12; 9am-noon & 1-4pm Wed-Fri & Sun, 1-4pm Sat Oct-Apr, plus school holidays during winter) Housed in an old church 2km east of Reefton on the Christchurch road, this museum is crammed with prospecting paraphernalia. Just up the driveway is the still-functional Golden Fleece Battery (adult/child $1/free; 1-4pm Wed & Sun Oct-Apr) , used for crushing gold-flecked quartz. The Blacks Point walks also start from here.

Bearded Mining Company HISTORIC BUILDING

(Broadway; admission by donation; 9am-2pm) Looking like a ZZ Top tribute band, the fellas hangin’ at this high-street mining hut are champing at the bit to rollick your socks off with tales tall and true. If you’re lucky you’ll get a cuppa from the billy.

Waiuta HISTORIC SITE

(www.waiuta.org.nz; off SH7) A once-­burgeoning gold town abandoned in 1951 after the mineshaft collapsed, remote Waiuta is one of the West Coast’s most famous ghost towns, complete with a big old rusty boiler, an overgrown swimming pool, stranded brick chimneys and the odd intact cottage, which face off against mother nature who has sent in the strangleweed. Spread over a square kilometre or so of plateau, surrounded by lowland forest and looking out towards the Southern Alps, Waiuta is a very satisfying place for an amble. To get to there, drive 23km south of Reefton on SH7 to the signposted turn-off from where it’s another 17km, the last half of which is unsealed, winding and narrow in places. Ask at local i-SITEs for more information and maps.

Tours

Reefton Gold Mine Tours CULTURAL TOUR

( 027 442 4777, 03-732 8497; www.reeftongold.co.nz) Dig deeper into Reefton on a two-hour heritage tour ($25) taking in town highlights. The Gold Mine Tour (adult/child/family $55/30/120) visits the local mine, where you’ll get views over the pit-edge and see plenty of huge machinery in action. Book at the i-SITE or the Broadway Tearooms.

Sleeping & Eating

It’s slim pickings on the food front in Reefton, with self-catering or a night down the pub the safest bets.

Old Nurses Home GUESTHOUSE $

( 03-732 8881; www.reeftonaccommodation.co.nz; 104 Shiel St; s/d $55/80; ) This stately old building is warm and comfortable, with noteworthy communal areas including a pretty garden and patio. Bedrooms are clean and airy with comfy beds.

Reefton Motor Camp HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-732 8477; reeftonmotorcamp@xtra.co.nz; 1 Ross St; sites from $15, cabin d $45) On the Inangahua River and a minute’s walk to Broadway, this older style camp sits beside a big green sports field and shady fir trees.

Lantern Court Motels MOTEL $$

( 03-732 8574, 0800 526 837; www.lanterncourtmotel.co.nz; 63 Broadway; old units d $95-120, new units d $145-170; ) This heritage hotel offers great value, with self-catering options for every­one from singles to family groups, while the well-assimilated motel block next door offers all mod cons with a nod to classical styling.

Broadway Tearooms BAKERY $

(31 Broadway; snacks $3-8, meals $10-20; 5am-5pm) This joint gets by far the most day-time traffic, being a civilised place for a spot of lunch, and to pick up a fresh loaf or a packet of shortbread. Middle-of-the-road meals range from egg breakfasts to a whitebait lunch. Survey the high street from al fresco tables, or peruse the cute cruet set collection indoors.

Wilson’s Hotel PUB $$

(32 Broadway; mains $13-30; 11am-11pm) A solid town pub pleasing all, from smokin’ youth through to soup-slurping pensioners. Meat and three veg dominate the menu, but it’s all hearty and homemade. Occasional bands and DJs raise the excitement level to somewhere under fever pitch.

Information

The Reefton i-SITE ( 03-732 8391; www.reefton.co.nz; 67 Broadway; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) has helpful staff, and a compact re-creation of the Quartzopolis Mine (gold coin entry). There’s internet at the library, which doubles as the postal agency.

Getting There & Away

East West Coaches ( 03-789 6251; www.eastwestcoaches.co.nz) stops in Reefton every day except Saturday on the run between Westport (1¼ hours) and Christchurch (3¾ hours).

Westport & Around

Pop 5600

The port of Westport made its fortune in coal mining, and coal still makes a considerable contribution to keeping the town stoked up. Beyond some respectable hospitality, the town contains little of prolonged interest, but makes a good base for exploring the fascinating coast north to Karamea, Oparara and the Heaphy Track.

Sights & Activities

Westport is good for a stroll – the i-SITE can direct you to the Millenium Walkway and North Beach Reserve. The most thrilling adventure in the area is cave rafting with Norwest Adventures (Click here), although mountain biking is gaining momentum as a popular pastime among local and visiting backcountry adventurers. The folk at Habitat Sports (Click here) offer bike hire, maps and advice.

Coaltown Museum MUSEUM

(www.coaltown.co.nz; 123 Palmerston St; adult/child $15/7; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) Re-opened in 2013, the new-look Coaltown Museum retells the same old yarns of hard times, but this time with well-scripted display panels alongside an excellent selection of photographs, surrounding relics of local industries and general pioneer ephemera. The Denniston displays are a highlight.

Denniston Plateau HISTORIC SITE

(www.doc.govt.nz) Nine kilometres inland and 600m above sea level, Denniston was once NZ’s largest coal producer, with 1500 residents in 1911. By 1981 there were eight. Its claim to fame was the fantastically steep Denniston Incline, an engineering marvel enabling the cartage of coal wagons down a 45-degree hillside.

Denniston is fascinating, its ghostly remains brought to life with excellent interpretive displays. The Denniston Rose Walking Tour brochure ($2 from DOC and Westport Library; also available as an app) may lead keen readers to the local bookshop to buy Jenny Pattrick’s evocative novels set in these parts. The Denniston Mine Experience ( 0800 881 880; www.denniston.co.nz; Denniston; 2hr tour adult/child $95/65) guided tours ride the ‘gorge express’ train into the historic Banbury mine for what is a slightly spooky but intriguing underground ­adventure.

The plateau can be reached via the Denniston Bridle Track (three hours up, two down), which follows sections of the Incline. Skilled mountain bikers should speak to the folks at Westport’s Habitat Sports (Click here) about maps and bike hire.

Cape Foulwind
Walkway & Seal Colony WALKING, WILDLIFE

Poor old Abel Tasman. The first European to sight the Cape, in 1642, he named it Clyppygen Hoek (Rocky Point) but was eclipsed by James Cook in 1770 who clearly found it less than pleasing.

Today, on a good day, the Cape Foulwind Walkway (1½ hours return) makes for a wonderful amble. It traverses rolling hills between Lighthouse Rd at Omau in the north, and picturesque Tauranga Bay in the south, known for its surfing (and a cafe well worth visiting if it’s open).

Towards the southern end is the seal colony where – depending on the season – up to 200 NZ fur seals dot the rocks below the coastal path. Further north the walkway passes a replica astrolabe (a navigational aid) and lighthouse. At Omau, at the walk’s northern end, is the Star Tavern (Click here), a good place for a pit-stop.

Cape Foulwind is well signposted from Westport, 13km to Omau and 16km to Tauranga Bay.

Old Ghost Road TRAMPING, CYCLING

(www.oldghostroad.org.nz) One of the most ambitious of NZ’s new cycle trails, the 80km Old Ghost Road follows a historic byway started in the 1870s but never completed when the gold rush petered out. Finally completed after an epic build, the spectacular track traverses native forests, tussock tops, river flats and valleys.

The southern end of the track is at Lyell, 50 minutes’ drive (62km) east of Westport along the scenic Buller Gorge (SH6). The DOC campsite and day walks here have long been popular, with visitors drawn in by ­readily accessible historic sites including a graveyard secreted in the bush. The northern trailhead is at Seddonville (Click here), 45 minutes’ drive (50km) north of Westport off SH67, from where the track sidles along the steep-sided and utterly stunning Mokihinui River. Joining the two ends is a spectacular alpine section, with views from sunrise to sunset.

The track is dual use. Advanced mountain bikers can complete it in 2 to 3 days, while walkers are best to allow five. There are six huts along the way, all of which need to be booked in advance. The track can also be explored in day trips from either end, with both offering a satisfying adventure.

This track is brand-spanking new, and is only just bedding down, so check the website for the latest news, and visit Murchison and Westport i-SITEs for advice on transport and bookings.

Norwest Adventures CAVING, RAILWAY

( 03-788 8168, 0800 116 686; www.caverafting.com; SH6, Charleston) From its monolithic new base (with cafe) at Charleston, 26km south of Westport, this friendly bunch run ‘Underworld’ cave-rafting trips ($175, four hours) into the glow-worm-filled Nile River Caves. Glow without the flow (no rafting) is $110 per person. Tours begin with a fun rainforest railway ride, available separately (adult/child $20/15, 1½ hours). The Adventure Caving trip ($340, five hours) includes a 40m abseil into Te Tahi tomo (hole) with rock squeezes, waterfalls, prehistoric fossils and trippy cave formations.

Sleeping

Bazil’s Hostel HOSTEL $

( 03-789 6410; www.bazils.com; 54 Russell St; dm $28, d without/with bathroom $68/90) Funky Bazil’s is managed by sporty, well-travelled locals who run their own surf school (three-hour lesson $70; board and suit hire per day $30) and offer mountain-bike hire, free kayaks and hook-ups with other local activities. Bazil’s thoughtfully corrals its tour-bus clientele into their own area, leaving indie travellers peace and quiet in the many mural-painted corners.

Trip Inn HOSTEL $

( 03-789 7367, 0800 737 773; www.tripinn.co.nz; 72 Queen Street; dm $27-29, d $74; ) Westport’s stately hostel option is a grand 150-year-old villa with mature gardens. There’s a variety of tidy rooms within, plus more in an annexe, and voluminous communal areas.

Westport Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-789 7043; www.westportholidaypark.co.nz; 31 Domett St; campsites from $34, d $98-145) What it lacks in landscaping it makes up for in consistent maintenance of its basic communal facilities and affordable A-frame ‘chalets’. Fifteen minutes’ walk to town; minigolf course out front.

Seal Colony Top
10 Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 050 893 7876, 03-789 8002; www.top10westport.co.nz; 57 Marine Pde, Carters Beach; sites from $38, units $70-145; ) Right on Carters Beach and conveniently located 4km from Westport and 12km to Tauranga Bay, this no-frills outfit offers a full range of facilities of a more-than-acceptable standard. A good option for tourers seeking a clean and peaceful stop-off, and perhaps even a swim.

Buller Court Motel MOTEL $$

( 03-789 7979; www.bullercourtmotel.co.nz; 253 Palmerston St; d $125-175, q $195-215; ) One of many main-road options, this older-style complex is tastefully decorated and impresses with an away-from-the-road aspect and small but private grassy gardens.

Omau Settlers Lodge LODGE $$

( 03-789 5200; www.omausettlerslodge.co.nz; 1054 Cape Rd; r incl breakfast $135-155; ) Close to Cape Foulwind and across the road from the excellent Star Tavern, these contemporary and stylish units offer rest, relaxation and satisfying continental breakfasts. Rooms have kitchenettes, but a shared kitchen and dining room offers a chance to socialise. A hot tub surrounded by bush maximises the take-it-easy quotient.

Archer House B&B $$

( 0800 789 877, 03-789 8778; www.archerhouse.co.nz; 75 Queen St; d incl breakfast $185-225; ) This beautiful 1890 heritage home sleeps up to eight in three rooms with their own bathrooms, all sharing no fewer than three lounges, plus peaceful gardens. Lovely hosts, complimentary sherry and generous continental breakfast make this Westport’s most refined accommodation option.

Eating & Drinking

Westport has more than its fair share of pubs and other places to eat, with good odds on for decent espresso, and two big supermarkets for stocking up.

PR’s Cafe CAFE $

(124 Palmerston St; meals $12-19; 8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat & Sun; ) Low-key sign­age betrays the impressive effort by savvy PR’s with its cabinet full of sharp sandwiches and pastries, and a counter groaning under the weight of amazing cakes (red velvet, Dutch apple) and cookies. An all-day menu delivers carefully composed, modern cafe meals such as salmon omelette with dill aioli, spanakopita, and seasonal specials.

Porto Bello BAR, RESTAURANT $$

(62 Palmerston St; meals $16-32; 5pm-late) Roman columns and renaissance artwork give this place a classical feel, but the food has its roots firmly in the US of A. Craft beer on tap, $16.50 steak special, burgers with pickles, pizza and pork ribs keep the punters happy, as does occasional live music.

Star Tavern PUB

(6 Lighthouse Rd, Omau; meals $9-30) A motto of ‘arrive as strangers, leave as friends’ is backed up at this rural tavern handily positioned near Cape Foulwind. It dishes up generously proportioned grub in its old-fashioned dining room, a warm welcome, pool and a jukebox in its unprepossessing public bar, and relaxation in the garden. Proper hospitality, that’s what this is.

Information

The major banks are along Palmerston St. There’s free wi-fi at the Westport Library (87 Palmerston St) .

Buller Hospital ( 03-788 9030; Cobden St)

Department of Conservation Office (DOC; 03-788 8008; www.doc.govt.nz; 72 Russell St; 8am-noon & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri) DOC bookings and information can be gained from the i-SITE. For curly questions visit this field office.

Post Office (cnr Brougham & Palmerston Sts)

Westport i-SITE ( 03-789 6658; www.coaltown.co.nz; 123 Palmerston St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) Information on local tracks, walkways, tours, accommodation and transport. Self-help terminal for DOC information and hut/track bookings. See also www.westcoastnz.com.

Getting There & Around

Air

Air New Zealand ( 0800 737 000; www.airnewzealand.co.nz) has up to three flights per day to/from Wellington.

Bus

Westport is a stop on the daily Nelson to Fox Glacier runs of InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) . Travel time to Nelson is 3½ hours, to Greymouth 2¼ hours, and to Franz Josef six hours. Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) runs the same route three times per week. Buses leave from the i-SITE.

East West Coaches ( 03-789 6251; www.eastwestcoaches.co.nz) operates a service through to Christchurch, via Reefton and the Lewis Pass, every day except Saturday, departing from the Caltex Petrol Station.

Karamea Express ( 03-782 6757; info@karamea-express.co.nz) links Westport and Karamea (two hours) Monday to Friday May to September, plus Saturday from October to April, departing from the i-SITE.

Trek Express ( 0272 221 872, 0800 128 735; www.trekexpress.co.nz) passes through Westport on its frequent high-season tramper transport link between Nelson and the Wangapeka/Heaphy Tracks.

Bicycle

Hire bikes and obtain advice from Habitat Sports ( 03-788 8002; www.habitatsports.co.nz; 234 Palmerston St; half-day bike hire $35; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) .

Car

Hire some wheels at Wesport Hire ( 03-789 5038; wesporthire@xtra.co.nz; 294 Palmerston St) .

Taxi

Buller Taxis ( 03-789 6900) can take you to/from the airport (around $20).

Westport to Karamea

North along SH67, the road is pressed against the rocky shoreline by verdant hills. If you’re driving all the way up to Karamea, fill your tank in Westport as it’s 98km to the next petrol station.

The first town beyond Westport is Waimangaroa, with a shop worth a stop for a homemade pie and ice cream. Here you’ll also find the turn-off to the Denniston Plateau (Click here), which can be surveyed in as little as an hour.

Sleepy Granity is 30km north of Westport. Little happens here save the passing of flouro-vested mine workers heading up to Stockton, NZ’s largest operational coal mine, which is located 8km inland.

The next coastal cluster is Ngakawau, shortly followed by Hector where stands a monument to Hector’s dolphins, NZ’s smallest, although you’ll be lucky to see them unless your timing is impeccable.

Around 1km north of Hector is a rather special hostel nestled high on the hill amongst native bush, with epic views of the Tasman Sea. The Old Slaughterhouse ( 027 529 7640, 03-782 8333; www.oldslaughter­house.co.nz; dm $32-36, d $80; sometimes closed Jun-Oct) , built mainly from recycled timbers, is dotted with great art and eclectic furniture, and has tranquil communal areas ideal for contemplation. The steep, 10-minute walk up the hill is well worth the effort and bolsters the off-the-grid charm.

In these parts you’ll find the Charming Creek Walkway. One of the best day-walks on the Coast, this all-weather trail (six hours return) follows an old coal line through the Ngakawau River Gorge. Along its length are rusty relics galore, tunnels, a suspension bridge and waterfall, and lots of interesting plants and geological formations. Ask a local about transport if you don’t want to walk it both ways.

You can start the walkway at Ngakawau, where you’ll find the Charming Creek B&B ( 03-782 8007; www.bullerbeachstay.co.nz; Ngakawau; d incl breakfast $139-169; ) . The rooms are indeed charming, and there’s a driftwood-fired hot tub right by the sea where the self-contained ‘Beach Nest’ bach sleeps 3 to 4 ($95 to $135, minimum two-night stay). Ask about the two-night walking package, which includes dinners and a picnic lunch.

The northern trailhead for the walkway is 10km beyond Seddonville, a small bush town on the Mokihinui River where Seddonville Holiday Park ( 03-782 1314; 108 Gladstone St; campsites per person $10) offers respectable camping in the grounds of the old school. This small dot on the map is about to get slightly bigger, being the northern trailhead for the spectacular new Old Ghost Road (Click here).

At the Mokihinui River mouth, 3km off the highway, is the not-so-gentle Gentle Annie Beach, and salty Gentle Annie Coastal Enclave ( 0274 188 587, 03-782 1826; www.gentle­annie.co.nz; De Malmanche Rd, Mokihinui; sites from $12, s/d/tr from $25/50/75, cabins $130; ) where there are campsites, a lodge, a range of self-contained accommodation and the Cowshed Gallery & Cafe. There are also bush walks, a maze on a look-out point, and glow-worms nearby.

Between Mokihinui and Little Wanganui the road meanders over the thickly forested Karamea Bluff, affording expansive views of the Tasman Sea. It’s worth stopping to do the Lake Hanlon walk (30 minutes return) on the Karamea side of the hill.

Karamea & Around

The relaxed town of Karamea (population 380) considers itself the West Coast’s ‘best kept secret’, but those who’ve visited tend to boast about its merits far and wide. An end-of-the-road town it may well be, but it still has a bit of the ‘hub’ about it, servicing the end (or start) of the Heaphy and Wangapeka Tracks, and the magical Oparara Basin. With a friendly climate, and a take-it-easy mix of locals and chilled-out imports, the Karamea area is a great place to jump off the well-trodden tourist trail for a few lazy days.

Sights & Activities

Hats off to the Karamea community who have established the very pleasant Karamea Estuary Walkway, a long-as-you-like stroll bordering the estuary and Karemea River. It features plenty of birdlife and is best walked at sunset. Ask a local for directions, follow your nose, or pick up a leaflet from the Karamea Information & Resource Centre (Click here). While you’re there, pick up the free Karamea brochure, which details other walks, including Big Rimu (45 minutes ­return), Flagstaff (one hour return) and the Zig Zag (one hour return).

Longer walks around Karamea include the Fenian Track (four hours return) leading to Cavern Creek Caves and Adams Flat, where there’s a replica gold-miner’s hut; and the first leg of the Wangapeka Track to Belltown Hut. The Wangapeka Track is a four-to-six-day backcountry trip suitable for experienced trampers only.

Other local activities include swimming, fishing, whitebaiting, kayaking and mountain biking. Your best bet for advice on these is to ask a local and use common sense – especially when it comes to the watery stuff. Flexible and friendly Karamea Outdoor Adventures ( 03-782 6181; www.karameaadventures.co.nz; Bridge St; guided kayak/riverbug trips from $60, kayak hire 2hr $30, bike hire 2hr $30) offers guided and freedom kayaking and riverbug trips on four West Coast rivers, plus mountain-bike hire, and advice on local excursions.

Heaphy Track

The West Coast road ends 14km from Karamea at Kohaihai, the western trailhead (and most commonly, the finish point) of the Heaphy Track, where there’s also a DOC campsite (Department of Conservation; adult/child $6) . A day walk or overnight stay can readily be had from here. Walk to Scotts Beach (1½ hours return), or go as far as the fabulous new Heaphy Hut (huts/campsites $32/14) (five hours) and stay a night or two before returning.

This section can also be mountain-biked, as can the whole track (two to three days) from May to September; ask at Westport’s Habitat Sports (Click here) for bike hire and details.

Helicopter Charter Karamea ( 03-782 6111; www.karameahelicharter.co.nz; 79 Waverley St) can fly up to three people through to the northern trailhead in Golden Bay for $750; ask about other possible drop-off/pick-up points and bike transfers.

For detailed information on negotiating the Heaphy Track, Click here , or check out www.heaphytrack.com.

Sleeping & Eating

Cafes and restaurants are thin on the ground around these parts, so stock up at Karamea’s Four Square and keep an eye out for ‘open’ signs.

Karamea Domain Camp CAMPSITE $

( 03-782 6069; www.karamea.org.nz; Waverley St; sites 1/2 people unpowered $12/16, powered $13/18) In the middle of the (ahem) action, this very simple town camp lines up pitches along the edge of the sportsfield, with the cute old Plunket Rooms refashioned into communal facilities – simple kitchen and lounge, and adequate bathrooms and bunkrooms (per person $13).

Karamea Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-782 6758; www.karamea.com; Maori Point Rd; sites d powered/unpowered $32/28, cabins $30-50, d $86-89; ) A simple, old-­fashioned camp alongside the estuary in bush surrounds, 3km south of Karamea village. The classic weatherboard cabins are clean and well maintained.

Rongo Backpackers HOSTEL $

( 03-782 6667; www.rongobackpackers.com; 130 Waverley St; sites from $20, dm $30-32, d $75; ) Part neo-hippie artists’ haven and part organic vegie garden, this rainbow-coloured hostel even has its own community radio station (107.5 FM, www.karamearadio.com). Popular with long-term guests who often end up working within – either tending the garden or as de facto DJs. Every fourth night is free.

Karamea Farm Baches CABINS $

( 03-782 6838; www.karameafarmbaches.com; 17 Wharf Rd; d/tr/q $95/120/145; ) Pushing reuse/recycle to the limit, these seven 1960s self-contained bachs are the real McCoy, right down to cobwebby corners and frayed bedspreads. If you dig organic gardening, friendly dogs and colourful hosts, this will win you over.

Karamea River Motels MOTEL $$

( 03-782 6955; www.karameamotels.co.nz; 31 Bridge St; r $125-169; ) The smart rooms at this modern, rural motel range from studios to two-bedroom units. Features include long-range views, barbecues and lush gardens complete with lily pond.

Last Resort LODGE $$

( 03-782 6617, 0800 505 042; www.lastresort.co.nz; 71 Waverley St; s $50, d $97-155, q $195; ) This iconic, rambling and rustic resort has had its ups and downs, but is currently riding a wave of friendly local hosts, accommodation upgrades and a general tidy up. Scope the joint with espresso or a beer in the cafe or bar (meals $9 to $25) or take the plunge into a range of rooms, from simple doubles to family suites hallmarked by extensive use of local timbers.

Karamea Village Hotel PUB $$

(www.karameahotel.co.nz; cnr Waverley & Wharf Sts; meals $9-29; 11am-11pm) Here lie simple pleasures and proper hospitality: a game of pool, a pint of ale, and a hot roast dinner followed by an old-fashioned pudding.

Information

Karamea Information & Resource Centre ( 03-782 6652; www.karameainfo.co.nz; Market Cross; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat & Sun, shorter hours off-peak) This excellent, community-owned centre has the local low-down, internet access, maps and DOC hut tickets. It also doubles as the petrol station.

Getting There & Away

Karamea Express ( 03-782 6757; info@karamea-express.co.nz) links Karamea and Westport ($35, two hours, 7.40am Monday to Friday May to September, plus Saturdays from October to April). It also services Kohaihai twice daily during peak summer, and other times on demand. Wangapeka transport is also available.

Heaphy Bus ( 03-540 2042, 0800 128 735; www.theheaphybus.co.nz) , based in Nelson, also runs between both ends of the Heaphy, as well as the Wangapeka.

Fly from Karamea to Takaka with Helicopter Charter Karamea ( 03-782 6111; www.karameahelicharter.co.nz; 79 Waverley St) , Golden Bay Air ( 0800 588 885; www.goldenbayair.co.nz) or Adventure Flights Golden Bay ( 03-525 6167, 0800 150 338; www.adventureflightsgoldenbay.co.nz) for around $190 per person, then walk back on the Heaphy Track; contact the Information & Resource Centre for details.

Rongo Backpackers run track and town transport including services to Heaphy, Wangapeka, Oparara Basin and Westport on demand.

The Great Coast Road

There are fine views all the way along this beautiful stretch of SH6, although its most famous attractions are the geologically fascinating Pancake Rocks at Punakaiki. Fill up in Westport if you’re low on petrol and cash – there’s no fuel until Runanga, 92km away, and the next ATM is in Greymouth.

Westport to Punakaiki

Set on 42 serene hectares, 17km south of Westport, the solar-powered, energy-­efficient Beaconstone Eco Lodge ( 027 431 0491; www.beaconstoneecolodge.co.nz; Birds Ferry Rd; dm $28-31, d $70-74; Oct-May; ) is a bushy retreat with touches of Americana cool. Inside are cosy beds and a laid-back communal area, while beyond the doorstep are bush walks leading to peaceful river swimming holes. There’s only room for 14, so booking is recommended.

Jack’s Gasthof ( 03-789 6501; www.jacksgasthof.co.nz; SH6; mains $12-28; from 11am Oct-Apr) is 21km south of Westport on the Little Totara River, where Berliners Jack and Petra run their eternally popular pizzeria with adjacent bar improbably bejewelled with a disco ball. Avail yourself of campsites (from $6) and a basic room ($50) if you require a sleepover.

For a true taste of the region’s gold mining past, swing into Mitchell’s Gully Gold Mine (www.mitchellsgullygoldmine.co.nz; SH6; adult/child $10/free; 9am-5pm) , 22km south of Westport, where you’ll meet a pioneer’s descendants and explore the family mine. There are interesting tales, relics, tunnels and railtracks, plus a giant waterwheel and the odd trap-door spider.

The next stop is Charleston, 26km south of Westport. It’s hard to believe it now, but this place boomed during the 1860s gold rush, with 80 hotels, three breweries and hundreds of thirsty gold-diggers staking claims along the Nile River. There’s not much left now except a motel, campground, a clutch of local houses and the brilliant Norwest Adventures (Click here) with whom you can explore some utterly amazing hidden treasures.

From here to Punakaiki is a staggeringly beautiful panorama of lowland pakihi scrub and lush green forest alongside a series of bays dramatically sculpted by relentless ocean fury. Drive as slowly as the traffic behind you will allow.

Punakaiki & Paparoa National Park

Located midway between Westport and Greymouth is Punakaiki, a small settlement beside the rugged 380-sq-km Paparoa National Park. For most travellers it’s a quick stop for coffee and a squiz at the Pancake Rocks, which is a shame because there’s excellent tramping and other wild adventures, and plenty of accommodation.

Sights

Paparoa National Park is blessed with high cliffs and empty beaches, a dramatic mountain range, crazy limestone river valleys, diverse flora, and a profusion of birdlife, including weka and the Westland petrel, a rare sea bird which nests only here.

Pancake Rocks NATURAL FEATURE

Punakaiki is famous for its fantastic Pancake Rocks and blowholes. Through a layering-weathering process called stylobedding, the Dolomite Point limestone has formed into what looks like piles of thick pancakes. Aim for high tide (tide times are posted at the visitor information centre) when the sea surges into caverns and booms menacingly through blowholes. See it on a wild day and be reminded that Mother Nature really is the boss. An easy 15-minute walk loops from the highway out to the rocks and blowholes.

Activities

Tramps around Punakaiki include the Truman Track (30 minutes return) and the Punakaiki–Porari Loop (3½ hours), which goes up the spectacular limestone Pororari River gorge before popping over a hill and coming down the bouldery Punakaiki River to rejoin the highway.

Surefooted types can embark on the Fox River Cave Walk (three hours return), 12km north of Punakaiki and open to amateur explorers. BYO torch and sturdy shoes.

Other tramps in the national park are detailed in the DOC Paparoa National Park pamphlet ($1), and include the Inland Pack Track (two to three days), a route established by miners in 1866 to bypass difficult coastal terrain.

As many of Paparoa’s inland walks are susceptible to river flooding it is vital that you obtain updates from the DOC visitor centre (Click here) in Punakaiki before you ­depart.

Punakaiki Canoes KAYAKING

( 03-731 1870; www.riverkayaking.co.nz; SH6; canoe hire 2hr/full day $40/60, family rates available) This outfit rents canoes near the Pororari River bridge, for gentle, super-scenic paddling for all abilities.

Punakaiki Horse Treks HORSE RIDING

( 03-731 1839; www.pancake-rocks.co.nz; SH6; 3hr ride $160; Nov-May) Punakaiki Horse Treks, based at Hydrangea Cottages, conducts equine outings in the Punakaiki Valley, with river crossings, finishing at the beach.

Sleeping & Eating

There’s good news and bad news. The good news is that there’s ample accommodation in Punakaiki. The bad news is that there’s no grocery shop or petrol, and that the sole cafe may well fail to please. The tavern down the road, however, remains a consistently good performer. Keep it up, Team Pub!

Punakaiki Beach Hostel HOSTEL $

( 03-731 1852; www.punakaikibeachhostel.co.nz; 4 Webb St; campsites per person $20, dm/s/d $28/54/75; ) A laid-back hostel with a sea-view verandah, just a short walk from Pancake Rocks. Co-operative owners have been-there-done-that and know exactly what you want: a clean hostel with good beds, great communal facilities, and staff who smile because they mean it. The cutesy, virtually-on-the-beach Sunset Cottage ($115) is well worth a splurge.

Punakaiki Beach Camp HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-731 1894; www.punakaikibeachcamp.co.nz; 5 Owen St; campsites per person powered/unpowered $20/17, d $48-92; ) With a backdrop of sheer cliffs, this salty, beachside park with good grass is studded with clean, old-style cabins and shipshape amenities. A classic Kiwi coastal campground.

Te Nikau Retreat HOSTEL $

( 03-731 1111; www.tenikauretreat.co.nz; 19 Hartmount Pl; sites from $18, dm $28, d $75-90, cabins from $96; ) Relax, restore and explore at this unconventional property consisting of numerous buildings nestled into their own rainforest nooks, just a short walk to the beach. There are rooms in the main building, several cute cabins, and the larger Nikau Lodge sleeping up to 9.

Hydrangea Cottages COTTAGES $$

( 03-731 1839; www.pancake-rocks.co.nz; SH6; d $140-310; ) On a hillside overlooking the Tasman, these five standalone and mostly self-contained cottages (largest sleeping up to seven) are built from salvaged timber and river stones. It’s a classy but relaxed enclave, with splashes of colourful mosaic and pretty cottage gardens. The owners also run the horse-trekking stables.

Punakaiki Tavern PUB $$

(www.punakaikitavern.co.nz; SH6; mains $19-33; 8am-late; ) Whether it’s breakfast, lunch or dinner, this pub does decent portions of honest food served in comfortable surrounds. Most nights the punters are a mix of local and international, so there’s ample opportunity for conversation and friendly debate over the rules of pool.

Information

The Paparoa National Park visitor information centre and i-SITE ( 03-731 1895; www.doc.govt.nz; SH6; 9am-5pm Oct-Nov, to 6pm Dec-Mar, to 4.30pm Apr-Sep) has info on the park and track conditions, and handles bookings for attractions and accommodation including hut tickets.

An online directory of local activities and operators is maintained by Punakaiki Promotions (www.punakaiki.co.nz) .

Getting There & Away

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) travels daily north to Westport (45 minutes), and south to Greymouth (45 minutes) and Fox Glacier (five hours). Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) runs to the same destinations three days a week. Both companies stop long enough for passengers to admire the Pancake Rocks.

Punakaiki to Greymouth

The highway from Punakaiki to Greymouth is flanked by white-capped waves and rocky bays on one side, and the steep, bushy Paparoa Ranges on the other.

At Barrytown, 17km south of Punakaiki, Steve and Robyn run Barrytown Knifemaking ( 03-731 1053, 0800 256 433; www.barrytownknifemaking.com; 2662 SH6, Barrytown; classes $150; closed Mon) , where you can make your own knife – from hand-forging the blade to crafting a handle from native rimu timber. The day-long course features lunch, archery, axe-throwing and a stream of entertainingly bad jokes from Steve. Bookings essential, and transport from Punakaiki can be arranged.

With a rainforest backdrop and coastal views, Ti Kouka House ( 03-731 1460; www.tikoukahouse.co.nz; 2522 SH6, Barrytown; d incl breakfast $305; ) further amazes with its splendid architectural design, recycled building materials, and sculptural artwork both inside and out. It’s an excellent B&B with three luxurious rooms.

Breakers ( 03-762 7743; www.breakers.co.nz; 1367 SH6, Nine Mile Creek; d incl breakfast $215-365; ) , 14km north of Greymouth, is one of the best-kept secrets on the coast. Beautifully appointed en suite rooms overlook the sea, with fine surfing opportunities at hand for the intrepid. The hosts are sporty, friendly and have a nice dog.

Two kilometres south is Rapahoe, 12km shy of Greymouth. This tiny seaside settlement is the northern trailhead for the enjoyable Point Elizabeth Walkway (Click here). Should you require refreshment before or after your walk, call in to the Rapahoe Hotel (1 Beach Rd; mains $12-29) , a simple country pub offering warm hospitality and a good feed of fish and chips in a picturesque location.

Greymouth Region

Bookending NZ’s most famous alpine pass and sitting more or less halfway along the West Coast highway, the Greymouth area provides easy access to the attractions north and south as well as offering a decent smattering of diversions within its boundaries.

Greymouth

Pop 8900

Welcome to the ‘Big Smoke’, crouched at the mouth of the imaginatively named Grey River. The West Coast’s largest town has gold in its veins, and today its fortunes still ebb and flow with the tide of mining, although dairy farming and tourism top up the coffers. The town is well geared for travellers, offering all the necessary services and the odd tourist attraction, the most famous of which is Shantytown.

Sights & Activities

Shantytown MUSEUM

(www.shantytown.co.nz; Rutherglen Rd, Paroa; adult/child/family $31.50/15.50/74; 8.30am-5pm) Eight kilometres south of Greymouth and 2km inland from SH6, Shantytown re-creates a 1860s gold-mining town, complete with steam-train rides, post office, pub and Rosie’s House of Ill Repute. There’s also gold panning, a flying fox, sawmill, a gory hospital and 10-minute holographic movies in the Princess Theatre.

Left Bank Art Gallery GALLERY

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(www.leftbankarts.org.nz; 1 Tainui St; admission by donation; 10am-4pm daily) This 90-year-old former bank houses contemporary NZ jade carvings, prints, paintings, photographs and ceramics. The gallery also fosters and supports a wide society of West Coast artists.

History House Museum MUSEUM

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(www.history-house.co.nz; 27 Gresson St; adult/child $6/2; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri) This museum documents Greymouth’s pre-1920 history with an impressive collection of photographs.

TranzAlpine TRAIN TOUR

( 03-341 2588, 0800 872 467; www.kiwirailscenic.co.nz; adult/child one way from $99/69; departs Christchurch 8.15am, Greymouth 1.45pm) The TranzAlpine is one of the world’s great train journeys, traversing the Southern Alps between Christchurch and Greymouth, from the Pacific Ocean to the Tasman Sea, passing through Arthur’s Pass National Park. En route is a sequence of dramatic landscapes, from the flat, alluvial Canterbury Plains, through narrow alpine gorges, an 8.5km tunnel, beech-forested river valleys, and alongside a lake fringed with cabbage trees. The 4½-hour journey is unforgettable, even in bad weather (if it’s raining on one coast, it’s probably fine on the other).

Monteith’s Brewing Co BREWERY

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( 03-768 4149; www.monteiths.co.nz; cnr Turumaha & Herbert Sts; 10.30am-7.30pm) The original Monteith’s brewhouse may simply be brand HQ for mainstream product largely brewed elsewhere, but it still delivers heri­tage in spades through its excellent-value tour (one hour, $20, includes generous samples; three to five tours per day). The flash tasting-room-cum-bar is now Greymouth’s most exciting watering hole (tasty snacks $7 to $18) – shame it shuts up shop so early.

Floodwall Walk WALKING

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Take a 10-minute riverside stroll along Mawhera Quay, or keep going for an hour or so, taking in the fishing harbour, breakwater and Blaketown Beach, which leads on to the West Coast Wilderness Trail (Click here). Other local walks (most inclined towards mining heritage sites) are detailed in the free Greymouth map and brochure, available from the i-SITE (Click here).

Point Elizabeth Walkway WALKING

Accessible from Dommett Esplanade in Cobden, 6km north of Greymouth, this enjoyable walkway (three hours return) skirts around a richly forested headland in the shadow of the Rapahoe Range to an ocean lookout, before continuing on to the northern trailhead at Rapahoe (12km from Greymouth) – small town, big beach, friendly local pub.

Kea Heritage Tours GUIDED TOUR

( 0800 532 868; www.keatours.co.nz) Kea operates high-quality shuttle-bus tours with well-informed guides, and visits coast sites and those beyond. Short tours include the half-day Punakaiki Tour ($115), and the day-long Twin Glaciers ($295). Myriad other options include a multiday exploration of the Maori greenstone trails.

Sleeping

Global Village HOSTEL $

( 03-768 7272; www.globalvillagebackpackers.co.nz; 42 Cowper St; sites per person $18, dm/d/tr/q $28/70/96/120; ) A collage of African and Asian art is infused with a passionate travellers’ vibe here. Free kayaks – the Lake Karoro wetlands reserve is just metres away – and mountain bikes are on tap, and relaxation comes easy with a spa, sauna, barbecue and fire pit.

Noah’s Ark Backpackers HOSTEL $

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( 03-768 4868, 0800 662 472; www.noahs.co.nz; 16 Chapel St; sites per person $17, dm/s/d $27/54/68; ) Originally a monastery, colourful Noah’s has eccentric animal-themed rooms, a sunset-worthy balcony and quiet back garden with a spa pool. Mountain bikes and fishing rods are provided free of charge.

Ardwyn House B&B $

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( 03-768 6107; ardwynhouse@hotmail.com; 48 Chapel St; s/d incl breakfast from $60/90; ) This old-fashioned B&B nestles amid steep gardens on a quiet dead-end street. Mary, the well-travelled host, cooks a splendid breakfast.

Greymouth Seaside
Top 10 Holiday Park MOTEL, HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-768 6618, 0800 867 104; www.top10greymouth.co.nz; 2 Chesterfield St; sites $40-46, cabins $60-125, motel r $110-374; ) Well positioned for sunset walks on the adjacent beach and 2.5km south of the town centre, this large park has various tent and campervan sites as well as accommodation ranging from simple cabins to deluxe seaview motels – arguably the flashest units in town. A shipshape stop for every budget.

Greymouth Kiwi
Holiday Park & Motels MOTEL, HOLIDAY PARK $

( 03-762 6768, 0800 101 222; www.southbeach.co.nz; 318 Main South Rd; sites $30-35, d $50-130; ) This low-rise complex offers a range of cheap, no-frills accommodation, ­sandwiched between the (busy) highway and the beach, 6km south of town.

Paroa Hotel HOTEL $$

( 03-762 6860, 0800 762 6860; www.paroa.co.nz; 508 Main South Rd, Paroa; d $128-140; ) Opposite the Shantytown turn-off, this family-owned hotel (60 years and counting) has spacious units sharing a large lawned garden next to the beach. The notable bar and restaurant dishes up warm hospitality (mains $18 to $32) in the form of roast, pavlova, and beer, amid local clientele.

Eating & Drinking

Greymouth has a decent daytime cafe scene, but come evening some of the best food will be found at pubs on the town fringe and beyond.

DP:One Cafe CAFE $

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(104 Mawhera Quay; meals $7-23; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; ) A stalwart of the Greymouth cafe scene, this hip joint serves great espresso, along with good-value grub. Groovy tunes, wi-fi, a relaxed vibe and quayside tables make this a welcoming spot to linger.

Freddy’s Cafe CAFE $

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(115 Mackay St; snacks $4-7, meals $8-18; 8am-5pm) Don’t miss the doorway because upstairs the restrained-retro Freddy’s beckons with good espresso, all-day hot meals (pancakes, seafood chowder, pasta) alongside an appealing selection of cabinet food. The likes of vegetarian quiche can be rounded off with several different chocolate options, including the venerable afghan biscuit.

Ali’s Eating & Drinking CAFE $$

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(9 Tainui St; mains $12-27; 8am-10pm Mon-Sat, to 3pm Sun) Painted in warm orange and adorned with local art, conservative but comfortable Ali’s serves honest all-day food of global bent such as laksa, pasta, steak and whitebait, with lovely homemade desserts such as Knickerbocker Glory.

Information

Free town and regional maps are available at the i-SITE. Major banks huddle around Mackay and Tainui Sts. There’s internet access at the i-SITE and library (18 Albert St; ) .

Greymouth i-SITE ( 03-768 5101, 0800 473 966; www.greydistrict.co.nz; Railway Station, 164 Mackay St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) The helpful crew at the railway station can assist with all manner of advice and bookings, including those for DOC huts and walks. See also www.westcoastnz.com.

Grey Base Hospital ( 03-768 0499; High St)

Post Office (36 Tainui St)

Getting There & Around

Combined with the i-SITE in the railway station, the West Coast Travel Centre ( 03-768 7080; www.westcoasttravel.co.nz; Railway Station, 164 Mackay St; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun; ) books local and national transport and offers luggage storage.

Bus

All buses stop outside the railway station.

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) has daily buses north to Westport (two hours) and Nelson (six hours), and south to Franz Josef Glacier (3½ hours). Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) runs the same route three days a week. Both companies offer connections to destinations further afield.

Atomic Travel ( 03-349 0697, 0508 108 359; www.atomictravel.co.nz) passes Greymouth on its daily Nelson to Franz Josef service (and onward to Queenstown), as well as running across Arthur’s Pass to Christchurch. West Coast Shuttle ( 03-768 0028, 0274 927 000; www.westcoastshuttle.co.nz) also runs a daily service between Greymouth and Christchurch.

Car

Several car-hire company desks are located within the railway station. Local companies include Alpine West ( 03-768 4002, 0800 257 736; www.alpinerentals.co.nz; 11 Shelley St) and NZ Rent-a-Car ( 03-768 0379; www.nzrentacar.co.nz; 170 Tainui St) .

Taxi

Greymouth Taxis ( 03-768 7078)

Blackball

Around 25km upriver of Greymouth sits the ramshackle town of Blackball – established in 1866 to service gold diggers; coal mining kicked in between 1890 and 1964. The National Federation of Labour (a trade union) was conceived here, born from influential strikes in 1908 and 1931. This story is retold in historical displays on the main road.

Alongside you will find the hub of the town, Formerly the Blackball Hilton ( 03-732 4705, 0800 425 225; www.blackballhilton.co.nz; 26 Hart St; s/d with continental breakfast $55/110) , where you can collect a copy of the helpful ‘Historic Blackball’ map. This official Historic Place has memorabilia galore, hot meals, cold beer, heaps of afternoon sun, and a host of rooms oozing the charm of yesteryear; it was named so after a certain global hotel chain got antsy when its name was ­appropriated.

Competing with the Hilton in the fame stakes is the Blackball Salami Co (www.blackballsalami.co.nz; 11 Hilton St; 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat) , manufacturer of tasty salami and sausages ranging from chorizo to black pudding.

Blackball’s other claim to fame is as the southern end of the Croesus Track, a two-day historic goldfields route that clambers over a knob to reach Barrytown. Visit DOC’s website for details.

Lake Brunner

Lying inland from Greymouth, Lake Brunner (www.golakebrunner.co.nz) can be reached via the SH7 turn-off at Stillwater, a journey of 39km. It can also be reached from the south via Kumara Junction.

One of many lakes in the area, Brunner is a tranquil spot for bushwalks, bird-spotting and various watersports including boating and fishing. Indeed, the local boast is that the lake and Arnold River are ‘where the trout die of old age’, which implies that the local fish are particularly clever or the fisherfolk are somewhat hopeless. Greymouth i-SITE can hook you up with a guide. Head to the marina to undertake one or all of several pretty short walks.

Moana is the main settlement, home to numerous accommodation options of which the best is Lake Brunner Country Motel ( 03-738 0144; www.lakebrunnermotel.co.nz; 2014 Arnold Valley Rd; sites from $30, cabins $60-70, cottages d $135-145; ) , 2km from the lake. It features cabins, cottages and campervan sites tucked into native plantings through park-like grounds, while tenters can enjoy the lush grassy camping field down the back. This is proper peace and quiet, unless you count birdsong and the bubbling of the spa pool.

Moana also has a couple of places to eat including a cafe opposite the station where the TranzAlpine train pulls in. There’s also food at the petrol station, and the local pub, which is trending upward.

Kumara

Pop 310

Thirty kilometres south of Greymouth, near the western end of Arthur’s Pass (SH73), Kumara was yet another busy gold-rush town that ground to a halt, leaving behind a thin posse of flinty folk who have kept the town going to this day. And all to the greater good, for were it not for the Kumarians there would be no starting point for the Coast to Coast (www.coasttocoast.co.nz) , NZ’s most famous multisport race. Held each February, the strong, the brave and the totally knackered run-cycle-ride-kayak-bike a total of 243km all the way across the mountains to Christchurch, with top competitors dusting it off in just under 11 hours.

Having manned the starting gate with sterling hospitality for 30 years, this tiny town is well-oiled to cope with yet more sporty visitors, namely people cycling the West Coast Wilderness Trail (Click here), which passes through the town. Anticipating their arrival is the show-stopping Theatre Royal Hotel ( 03-736 9277; www.theatreroyalhotel.co.nz; 81 Seddon St, SH73, Kumara; mains $22-42, d incl breakfast $135-290; 10am-late; ) , the fully restored highway stop that has kicked Kumara well and truly into the 21st century with its civilised bar, classy dining room, and sumptuous upstairs rooms styled after local personalities of old. The attention to detail in furnishings and heritage displays is simply wonderful. Stop in to enjoy some of the best food on the coast (fish and chips, local game, pizza and delicate cakes) or just pull in for a drink and a yarn with the locals.

Should you be to-ing or fro-ing over Arthur’s Pass, consider staying at Jacksons Retreat ( 03-738 0474; www.jacksonsretreat.co.nz; Jacksons, SH73; sites from $35; ) , 33km west of Arthur’s Pass Village. Set upon 15 sloping acres with exceptional views over the Taramakau River, it offers stacks of excellent amenities for campervanner and tenter alike.

Westland

The bottom third or so of the West Coast is known as Westland, a mix of farmland and rainforest backed by the Southern Alps, which pop straight up in a neck-cricking fashion. This region is most famous for its glaciers.

Hokitika

Pop 3000

Popular with history buffs and the setting for numerous NZ novels – including the 2013 Man Booker Prize–winning The Luminaries by Eleanor Catton – Hokitika’s riches come in many forms. Founded on gold, today the town is the stronghold of indigenous pounamu (greenstone), which jostles for attention amid many other arts and crafts, drawing rafts of visitors to the town’s wide open streets.

Sights & Activities

Hokitika is a great base for walking and cycling. Download or collect a copy of DOC’s brochure Walks in the Hokitika Area ($1), and visit Hokitika Cycles & Sports World OFFLINE MAP GOOGLE MAP ( 03-755 8662; www.hokitikasportsworld.co.nz; 33 Tancred St; bike hire per day $55) for cycle hire and advice on tracks including the West Coast Wilderness Trail (Click here).

Hokitika Museum MUSEUM

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(www.hokitikamuseum.co.nz; 17 Hamilton St; adult/child $5/2.50; 10am-5pm) Housed in the imposing Carnegie Building (1908), this is an exemplary provincial museum, with intelligently curated exhibitions presented in a clear, modern style. Highlights include the fascinating Whitebait! exhibition, and the Pounamu room – the ideal primer before you hit the galleries looking for greenstone treasures.

Sunset Point LOOKOUT

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(Gibson Quay) A spectacular vantage point at any time of day, this is – as the name suggests – the primo place to watch the light fade away. Surfers, seagulls, and fish and chips: this is New Zealand.

Hokitika Heritage Walk WALK

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Pick up the 50-cent leaflet from the i-SITE and wander the old wharf precinct. Another brochure details the Hokitika Heritage Trail, a 11km (two to three hour) loop taking in historic sites and interesting town views.

Glowworm Dell NATURAL FEATURE

Just north of town, a short stroll from SH6 leads to a Glowworm Dell, an easy opportunity to enter the other-wordly home of NZ’s native fungus gnat larvae (so not even a worm at all). An information panel at the entrance will further illuminate your way.

Lake Kaniere LAKE

(www.doc.govt.nz) Lying at the heart of a 70-sq-km scenic reserve, beautiful Lake Kaniere is 8km long, 2km wide, 195m deep, and also quite cool, as you’ll discover if you swim. You may, however, prefer simply to camp or picnic at Hans Bay (www.doc.govt.nz) , or undertake one of numerous walks in the surrounds, ranging from the 15-minute Canoe Cove Walk to the seven-hour return gut-buster up Mt Tuhua. The historic Kaniere Water Race Walkway (3½ hours one way) forms part of the new West Coast Wilderness Trail.

Hokitika Gorge GORGE

(www.doc.govt.nz) A picturesque 35km drive leads to Hokitika Gorge, a ravishing ravine with unbelievably turquoise waters coloured by glacial ‘flour’. Point and shoot the scene from every angle via the short forest walkway and swingbridge. The gorge is well signposted from Stafford St (past the dairy factory). En route, you will pass Kowhitirangi, the site of NZ’s first mass-murder and a massive 12-day manhunt (immortalised in the 1982 classic film Bad Blood ). A poignant roadside monument lines up the farmstead site through a stone shaft.

Galleries

Art and craft galleries are a strong spoke in Hoki’s wheel, and you could easily spend a day spinning around the lot. There are plenty of opportunities to meet the artists, and in some studios you can watch them at work. Be aware that some galleries sell jade imported from Europe and Asia, as precious local pounamu (greenstone) is not surrendered lightly by the wilds.

Bonz ‘N’ Stonz CARVING

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(www.bonz-n-stonz.co.nz; 16 Hamilton St; full-day workshop $85-180) Design, carve and polish your own pounamu , bone or paua masterpiece, with tutelage from Steve. Prices vary with materials and design complexity. ­Bookings recommended.

Hokitika Craft Gallery GALLERY

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(www.hokitikacraftgallery.co.nz; 25 Tancred St) The town’s best one-stop-shop, this co-op showcases a wide range of local work including pounamu , jewellery, textiles, ceramics and woodwork.

Jagosi Jade GALLERY

( 03-755 6243; 246 Sewell St) Aden Hoglund carves traditional and modern Maori pieces from local stone; will make to order.

Tectonic Jade GALLERY

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(www.tectonicjade.com; 67 Revell St) This welcoming gallery is a great spot to view and buy local pounamu , carved by the talented Rex Scott.

Waewae Pounamu GALLERY

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(www.waewaepounamu.co.nz; 39 Weld St) This stronghold of NZ pounamu displays traditional and contemporary designs in its large, main-road gallery.

Hokitika Glass Studio GALLERY

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(www.hokitikaglass.co.nz; 9 Weld St) Glass art covering a continuum from garish to glorious; watch the blowers at the furnace on weekdays.

Tours

Wilderness Wings SCENIC FLIGHTS

( 0800 755 8118; www.wildernesswings.co.nz; Hokitika Airport; flights from $285) Offers scenic flights over Hokitika, and further afield to Aoraki (Mt Cook) and the glaciers.

Festivals & Events

Driftwood & Sand ART

(www.driftwoodandsand.co.nz) During a week in January, flotsam and jetsam is fashioned into a surprising array of arty, crafty and daft sculpture on Hokitika beach.

Wildfoods Festival FOOD

(www.wildfoods.co.nz) Held in early March, this festival attracts thousands of curious and brave gourmands who eat a whole lot of things they would usually flee from or flick from their hair. Legendary fun; book early.

Sleeping

Drifting Sands HOSTEL $

( 03-755 7654; www.driftingsands.co.nz; 197 Revell St; sites from $16, dm/s/d $30/60/78; ) Access to the beach from the back garden and this hostel’s family-home feel make it our pick of Hoki’s budget accommodation. The cheery, fastidious owner and crisp bedlinens don’t hurt either.

Shining Star Beachfront Accommodation HOLIDAY PARK, MOTEL $

( 03-755 8921, 0800 744 646; www.shiningstar.co.nz; 16 Richards Dr; sites per person unpowered/powered $16/20, d $95-175; ) Attractive and versatile beachside spot with everything from camping to classy self-contained seafront units. Kids will love the menagerie, including pigs and alpacas straight from Dr Doolittle’s appointment book. Parents might prefer the spa and sauna ($15 for two).

Birdsong HOSTEL $

( 03-755 7179; www.birdsong.co.nz; SH6; dm/s $30/60, d without/with bathroom $79/94; ) Located 2.5km north of town, this bird-themed hostel has sea views and a homely atmosphere. Free bikes, handy beach access and hidden extras will entice you into extending your stay.

Annabelle Motel MOTEL $$

( 050 854 9494, 03-755 8160; www.annabellemotel.co.nz; 214 Weld St; s $130, d $140-190; ) Less than 1km from the Hoki clock tower, pretty Annabelle is away from beach and town action but well located for peace and convenience. Tip-top units, decorated in green garden hues with plush furnishings, meet all middle-of-the-road modern standards.

Stations Inn MOTEL $$

( 03-755 5499; www.stationsinnhokitika.co.nz; Blue Spur Rd; d $170-300; ) Five minutes’ drive from town, high upon rolling hills that overlook the distant ocean, this modern motel complex has plush units featuring king-sized beds and spa bath. With a patio, pond and waterwheel out front, the ambient on-site restaurant (mains $30 to $45; open from 5pm Tuesday to Saturday) specialises in venison, beef and lamb, with petit fours and cheese for afters.

Teichelmann’s B&B B&B $$$

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( 03-755 8232; www.teichelmanns.co.nz; 20 Hamilton St; d $235-255; ) Once home to surgeon, mountaineer and professional beard-cultivator Ebenezer Teichelmann, this is now a charming B&B. All rooms have their own bathrooms, including the more private Teichy’s Cottage, in the garden oasis out back.

Eating & Drinking

Dulcie’s Takeaways FISH & CHIPS $

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(cnr Gibson Quay & Wharf St; fish & chips $6-11; 11am-9pm) Net yourself some excellent fush ‘n’ chups (try the turbot or blue cod), then scoff them straight from the paper at Sunset Point – a Hokitika highlight.

Sweet Alice’s Fudge Kitchen SWEETS $

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(27 Tancred St; 10am-5pm) Treat yourself with a slice of Alice’s all-natural, handmade fudge ($7), a real fruit ice cream, or a bag of boiled lollies – or maybe all three.

New World SUPERMARKET $

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(116 Revell St; 8am-8pm) If you’re heading south, this is your last proper supermarket before Wanaka, 426km away!

Fat Pipi Pizza PIZZERIA $$

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(89 Revell St; pizzas $20-30; noon-9pm Tue-Sun, 5-9pm Mon; ) Vegetarians, carnivores and everyone in between will be salivating for the pizza (including a whitebait version) made right before your eyes. Lovely cakes, honey buns and Benger juices, too. Best enjoyed in the garden bar.

Stumpers Cafe & Bar CAFE, BAR $$

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(2 Weld St; lunch $10-22, dinner $18-36; 7am-late) There’s something for everyone here, at any time of the day. In the evening you’ll find meaty mains, along with a whole host of locals meeting up for a pint and a game of pool.

West Coast Wine Bar WINE BAR

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(108 Revell St; 3-8pm Sun-Thu, 3pm-late Fri & Sat) Upping Hoki’s sophistication factor, this weeny joint with a cute garden bar pours all sorts of deliciousness, and plates up a little nibble. Fine wines to go.

Information

Banks can be found on Weld and Revell Sts. There’s free wi-fi at the library (20 Sewell St; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) .

Hokitika i-SITE ( 03-755 6166; www.hokitika.org; 36 Weld St; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) One of NZ’s best i-SITEs offers extensive bookings including all bus services. Also holds DOC info, although you’ll need to book online or at DOC Visitor Centres further afield. See also www.westcoastnz.com.

Post Office (Revell St)

Westland Medical Centre ( 03-755 8180; 54a Sewell St; 8.30am-10pm)

Getting There & Around

Air

Hokitika Airport (www.hokitikaairport.co.nz; Airport Dr, off Tudor St) is 1.5km east of the centre of town. Air New Zealand (www.airnz.co.nz) has four flights daily to/from Christchurch.

Bus

InterCity ( 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz) buses depart from Tancred St daily for Greymouth (45 minutes), Nelson (seven hours) and Franz Josef Glacier (two hours). Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) services the same destinations three times a week, with both companies offering connections to destinations further afield.

Car

There are several car-hire branches at Hokitika Airport. Hokitika Airport Car Rental ( 0800 556 606; www.hokitikaairportcarhire.co.nz) offers online price comparisons, or enquire and book at the i-SITE.

Taxi

Hokitika Taxis ( 03-755 5075)

Hokitika to Westland Tai Poutini National Park

From Hokitika it’s 140km south to Franz Josef Glacier. Most travellers fast forward without stopping, but there are some satisfying stopping points for the inclined. Intercity and Naked buses stop along this stretch of SH6.

Lake Mahinapua

On the highway eight kilometres south of Hokitika is the car park for the Mahinapua Walkway (two hours one way), a wonderful walk along an old logging tramway with relics and a diverse range of forest. (It’s an even better bike ride.) Two kilometres further on is the entrance to Lake Mahinapua Scenic Reserve, with a picnic area, DOC campsite and several short walks.

Five kilometres further on is a signposted turn-off to the West Coast Treetops Walkway ( 050 887 3386, 03-755 5052; www.treetopsnz.com; 1128 Woodstock-Rimu Rd; aduld/child $38/15; 9am-5pm) , a further 2km away. This steel walkway – 450 metres long and 20m off the ground – offers an unusual perspective on the rainforest canopy, featuring many old rimu and kamahi. The highlight is the 40m high tower, from which there are extensive views across Lake Mahinapua, the Southern Alps, and Tasman Sea. There’s a cafe and souvenir shop in the information centre which also has a large sun-drenched patio.

Ross

Ross, 30km south of Hokitika, is where the unearthing of NZ’s largest gold nugget (the 2.772kg ‘Honourable Roddy’) caused a kerfuffle in 1907. The Ross Goldfields Heritage Centre (www.ross.org.nz; 4 Aylmer St; 9am-4pm Dec-Mar, to 2pm Apr-Nov) displays a replica Roddy, along with a scale model ($2) of the town in its shiny years.

The Water Race Walk (one hour return) starts near the museum, passing old gold-diggings, caves, tunnels and a cemetery. Try gold panning by hiring a pan from the information centre ($10) and head to Jones Creek to look for Roddy’s great, great grandnuggets.

Established in 1866, the Empire Hotel (19 Aylmer St; meals $15-25) is one of the West Coast’s hidden gems, the bar (and many of its patrons) testament to a bygone era. Breathe in the authenticity, along with a whiff of woodsmoke, over a pint and an honest meal.

Hari Hari

About 22km south of Lake Ianthe, Hari Hari is where swashbuckling Australian aviator Guy Menzies crash-landed his trusty biplane into a swamp after completing the first solo trans-Tasman flight from Sydney, in 1931. Read all about it and view a replica of his plane at a commemorative park at the southern end of town.

The Hari Hari Coastal Walk (www.doc.govt.nz) (2¾ hours) is a low-tide loop along the Poerua and Wanganui Rivers through bogs, estuaries and a swamp forest. The walk starts 20km from SH6, the last 8km unsealed; follow the signs from Wanganui Flats Rd. Tide times are posted at the Pukeko Tearooms, which serves decent food and coffee.

Should you need a sleepover, Flaxbush Motels ( 03-753 3116; www.flaxbushmotels.co.nz; SH6; d $65-120; ) has characterful cabins and units covering a wide range of budgets. It also has a friendly disposition towards birds (ducks and peacocks in particular), and a willingness to negotiate room rates for longer stays.

Whataroa

Near Whataroa, 35km south of Hari Hari, is the Kotuku Sanctuary, NZ’s only nesting site for the kotuku (white heron), which roosts here between November and February. The only way to visit the nesting site is with White Heron Sanctuary Tours ( 03-753 4120, 0800 523 456; www.whiteherontours.co.nz; SH6, Whataroa; adult/child $120/55; 4 tours daily late Sep-Mar) on an enjoyable 2½-hour tour involving a gentle jetboat ride and short boardwalk to a viewing hide. Seeing the scores of birds perched in the bushes is a magical experience. A scenic rainforest tour without the herons is available year-round for the same price.

The tour people also run the Sanctuary Tours Motel ( 03-753 4120, 0800 523 456; www.whiteherontours.co.nz; SH6; cabins $65-75, d $110-135) , with basic cabins with shared bathrooms ($10 extra for bedlinen), and enthusiastically painted motel units.

Glacier Country Scenic Flights ( 03-753 4096, 0800 423 463; www.glacieradventures.co.nz; SH6, Whataroa; flights $195-435) offers a range of scenic flights and helihikes, lifting off from Whataroa Valley. These guys give you more mountain-gawping for your buck than many of the operators flying from the glacier townships.

Okarito

Fifteen kilometres south of Whataroa is the turn-off to the Forks, branching west for 13km to the magical seaside hamlet of Okarito (population 30ish). It sits alongside Okarito Lagoon, the largest unmodified wetland in NZ and a superb place for spotting birds including rare kiwi and the majestic kotuku. Peaceful Okarito has no shops and limited visitor facilities, so stock up and book up before you arrive.

Sights & Activities

From a car park on the Strand you can begin the easy Wetland Walk (20 minutes), a longer walk to Three Mile Lagoon (2¾ hours return), and a jolly good puff up to Okarito Trig (1½ hours return), which rewards the effort with spectacular Southern Alps and Okarito Lagoon views (weather contingent).

Andris Apse Wilderness Gallery GALLERY

( 03-753 4241; www.andrisapse.com; 109 The Strand) Okarito is home to world-class landscape photographer Andris Apse. His precisely composed gallery showcases his beautiful works, printed on site and available to purchase, as are infinitely more affordable books. Ring ahead to check it’s open, or look for the sandwich board at the end of the driveway.

Okarito Nature Tours KAYAKING

( 050 865 2748, 03-753 4014; www.okarito.co.nz; kayak half-/full day $60/70; ) Hires out kayaks for paddles into the lagoon and up into the luxuriant rainforest channels where all sorts of birds hang out. Guided tours are available (from $85), while overnight rentals ($85) allow experienced paddlers to explore further afield. There’s excellent espresso and wi-fi in the welcoming office/lounge.

Okarito Boat Tours WILDLIFE TOUR

( 03-753 4223; www.okaritoboattours.co.nz) Okarito Boat Tours runs bird-spotting lagoon tours, the most fruitful of which is the ‘early bird’ (7.30am, 1½ hours, $70). Other worthy options include the one-hour sightseeing tour (2.30pm, $45), and the two-hour nature tours (9am and 11.30am, $85). Cheery, longtime Okaritians Paula and Swade can also fix you up with accommodation in the village.

Okarito Kiwi Tours WILDLIFE TOUR

( 03-753 4330; www.okaritokiwitours.co.nz; 3hr tours $75) Runs nightly expeditions to spot the rare bird (95% success rate) with an interesting education along the way. Numbers are limited to eight, so booking is recommended.

Sleeping

Okarito Campground CAMPSITE $

(off Russell St; sites adult/child $12.50/free) Okarito Campground is a breezy patch of community-­managed greenery complete with kitchen and hot showers ($1). Gather driftwood from the beach for the fire-pit, or build your bonfire on the beach while the sun goes down. No reservations necessary.

Okarito Beach House HOSTEL, LODGE $

( 03-753 4080; www.okaritobeachhouse.com; The Strand; dm $28, d $60-100; ) The Okarito Beach House has a variety of accommodation. The weathered, self-contained ‘Hutel’ ($100) is worth every cent. The Summit Lodge has commanding views and the best dining-room table you’ve ever seen.

Westland Tai Poutini National Park

The biggest highlights of the Westland Tai Poutini National Park are the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers. Nowhere else at this latitude do glaciers come so close to the ocean. The glaciers’ staggering development is largely due to the West Coast’s ample rain; snow falling in the glaciers’ broad accumulation zones fuses into clear ice at 20m depth, then surges down the steep valleys.

Some say Franz Josef is the superior ice experience, and, while it’s visually more impressive, the walk to Fox is shorter, more interesting and often gets you closer to the ice. Both glacier faces are roped off to prevent people being caught in icefalls and river surges. The danger is very real – in 2009 two tourists were killed after being hit by falling ice when they ventured too close. The only way to get close to or on to the ice safely is on a guided tour.

Beyond the glaciers, the park’s lower reaches harbour deserted Tasman Sea beaches, rising up through colour-splashed podocarp forests to NZ’s highest peaks. Diverse and often unique ecosystems huddle next to each other in interdependent ecological sequence. Seals frolic in the surf as deer sneak through the forests. The resident endangered bird species include kakariki, kaka and rowi (the Okarito brown kiwi), as well as kea, the South Island’s native parrot. Kea are inquisitive and endearing, but feeding them threatens their health.

Heavy tourist traffic often swamps the twin towns of Franz and Fox, 23km apart. Franz is the more action-packed of the two, while Fox has a more subdued alpine charm. From December to February, visitor numbers can get a little crazy in both, so consider travelling in the shoulder seasons: September/October and March/April.

Franz Josef Glacier

The early Maori knew Franz Josef as Ka Roimata o Hine Hukatere (Tears of the Avalanche Girl). Legend tells of a girl losing her lover who fell from the local peaks, and her flood of tears freezing into the glacier. The glacier was first explored by Europeans in 1865, with Austrian Julius Haast naming it after the Austrian emperor. The glacier car park is 5km from Franz Josef village; the primary viewpoint is a 40-minute walk from there.