Twenty-eight
Abuja was different from other Nigerian cities.
There were no hawkers in the streets, no okadas buzzing about like
flies, no overflowing bins with unclothed schizophrenics scavenging
in them for their daily sustenance. None of the roads had potholes
and all the traffic lights were working. And unlike in our parts,
where a flashy car was the ninth wonder of the world, most of the
cars here were sleek, many with tinted windows.
I and the hired driver waited at the entrance to
the arrival lounge. Mr Winterbottom soon appeared, sweating like a
hog. I strode across and welcomed him with a handshake. The driver
rushed out and grabbed the handle of his suitcase.
‘It’s so terribly hot,’ the mugu groaned.
The Nnamdi Azikiwe International Airport was even
fully air-conditioned. Fighting for space high up on a prominent
side of the arrival lounge wall were massive portraits of the
president of the Federal Republic of Nigeria, of the minister of
the Federal Capital Territory of Nigeria, of the minister of
aviation of the Federal Republic of Nigeria, and of the chairman of
the Nigerian Federal Airports Authority. I placed my hand on Mr
Winterbottom’s shoulder and steered him away from the incriminating
view. Just before leaving the hotel, I had remembered to take off
my Rolex.
‘Thanks a lot for coming to get me,’ he said.
The pleasure was all mine.
A few weeks after the London meeting, Ozu High Seas
and Changeling Development Cooperation were awarded a $187 million
contract for the upgrading of the Akanu Ibiam Airport, Enugu, to an
international airport. The government officials had insisted on a
$10 million bribe before the contract documents could be
released.
Mr Winterbottom sent the money in four instalments.
The arrival of the first batch threw me into a massive shock that
left me in a species of trance for days. Two and a half million
dollars! In one transaction. Just like that. Did such amounts
actually exist in real human beings’ accounts?
And from what I had seen, Mr Winterbottom was a
normal human being like me. He did not have two heads.
I tried to imagine a life with access to that kind
of money. Glorious. All my problems solved forever. But how? By
what means? Not even the oil companies paid enough to give anyone
that much. Many Nigerian superbillionaires I knew of had attained
their wealth after stints in high public office but such an
opportunity was not likely to come my way anytime soon, even if I
had the heart. Siphoning from foreigners in parts of the world
where the economy was sound was one thing, but stealing from your
own brothers and sisters who had entrusted you to serve was the
abyss of wickedness, especially when you had the firsthand
opportunity to witness their daily sufferings and struggles. I was
not hurting anyone by taking a little of what the Winterbottoms of
this world had. There was much, much more where those millions had
come from.
When the subsequent three instalments arrived, I
received them without flinching a single muscle.
Now that everyone had received their due bribes, Mr
Winterbottom had come to finalise things at the Ministry of
Aviation and to sign the memorandum of understanding. Since it was
his first time visiting the Lion of Africa, as an act of goodwill I
reserved his ticket, booked his hotel room, and picked him up from
the airport.
‘Your country is beautiful,’ he said on the way
back to the hotel. ‘Everywhere looks so well organised. This isn’t
what I expected.’
No need telling him that this was all film tricks;
our beautiful Abuja was a Potemkin village. Mr Winterbottom would
probably never have to cross the River Niger to Igbo land, where
poverty and disarray would stare him eyeball to eyeball. Not only
was Abuja the Federal Capital Territory and the new seat of
government, it was probably the most expensive city in Nigeria.
Whenever the masses complained about the astronomical costs of
living, the government reminded them that Abuja was not for
everyone. The journalists and opinion-eds were still debating who
the ‘everyone’ was. Meanwhile, it was probably time for me to speak
to an estate agent about buying some nice property here.
The meeting took place in the Ministry of Aviation
complex. The real complex. World Bank’s wife number two’s cousin
had risen to the level of having a somewhat fancy office in the
building, and for a fee, he had agreed to lend it to us.
Cash Daddy was sitting in the executive chair when
we entered. He was in a hurry to attend a meeting with the
president, he said, but granted us a brief chat before handing over
the necessary documents.
‘We’re still expecting the National Assembly to OK
the budget,’ the minister said. ‘So, we can’t give any mobilisation
fees to any contractors right now.’
Mr Winterbottom assured him that we were loaded
enough to go ahead, and he was happy to wait and collect all the
outstanding payments later.
‘That might even mean waiting till the completion
of the project,’ the minister warned. ‘We might just end up paying
the $187 million in full at the same time.’
The sound of $187 million arriving in full does a
certain something to the human brain. Mr Winterbottom giggled and
hopped about in his seat.
Back at the hotel, I brought out Ozu High Seas
letterheaded documents and handed Mr Winterbottom his copies. I
guess the Englishman from Uganda and Argentina was not such a mugu
after all. He perused each piece of paper intensely, asking me
questions from time to time before he was satisfied and finally
willing to sign. Then he brought out a sleek pen from his jacket
pocket and inserted a signature that looked as if it was in the
habit of endorsing billions.
Afterwards, Mr Winterbottom said he wanted to go
sightseeing. He had travelled along with his camera. The hired
driver said he knew the best places we could see. I agreed to
accompany Mr Winterbottom on the tour.
The driver showed us the modern mansions of Asokoro
and the scenic streets of Maitama. He pointed out former Head of
State General Ibrahim Babangida’s mansion, former head of state
General Yakubu Gowon’s mansion, former head of state General
Abdulsallam Abubakar’s mansion. He even showed us a house that was
built in the shape of an aeroplane. But Mr Winterbottom was not
impressed.
‘Where can I get some real good shots?’ he asked.
‘I want some real photos of real Africans.’
I apologised that Abuja was not the right place.
There were no bare-bottomed children running around with flies in
their nostrils. The driver of the hired car overheard our
conversation and chipped in.
‘Oga, e get plenty villages wey dey for around
Abuja, If you want, make I take you. Them no dey far at all.’
He took us just fifteen minutes away, to Kikaokuchi
village. What I saw was beyond belief. The slum was teeming with
real Africans living in real African houses. How could such
sordidness be juxtaposed with so much affluence? The villagers
gathered and stared at the white visitor in their midst. Mr
Winterbottom went around patting shoulders.
‘Bature, bature,’ they whispered excitedly amongst
themselves.
After about three hours of babbling with awestruck
natives, listening to a bare-bottomed lad playing a bamboo flute,
and taking photographs of men drinking fura da nono on raffia mats
in front of their shacks, Mr Winterbottom was thirsty for new wine.
The driver suggested yet another village that was just twenty
minutes away.
‘No, I think we should go back to the hotel,’ I
said. I had seen more than enough of Africa for one day.
‘I don’t mind visiting a few more places,’ Mr
Winterbottom said. ‘This is really very exciting.’
‘I think we should go back to the hotel,’ I
insisted. ‘You know Nigeria is a dangerous place.’ I paused.
‘Especially for a white man.’
That did the trick. He entered the car without
another word of protest.
Back at the hotel, the driver nearly zonked out
when Mr Winterbottom recompensed him with $100 - a likely
approximate of his monthly income in just one day. The man
genuflected at least a gazillion times, chanting ‘thank you,
Master, thank you, Master’ each time his head arched towards the
floor.
I shook Mr Winterbottom’s hand, wished him a good
evening, and left him by his room door. Someday, he would look back
and understand why I had been so shy throughout the African tour,
why I had declined every one of his fervent invitations to feature
in his photo shots.