KRABI PROVINCE

When travellers talk about the amazing Andaman, they are probably talking about Krabi, with its trademark karst formations curving along the coast like a giant limestone fortress. Rock climbers will find their nirvana in Railay, while castaway wannabes should head to Ko Lanta, Ko Phi-Phi or any of the other 150 islands swimming off the bleach-blonde shores.

Krabi

pop 30,882

Krabi Town is majestically situated among impossibly angular limestone karsts jutting from the mangroves, but mid-city you’re more likely to be awe-struck by the sheer volume of guest houses and travel agencies packed into this compact, quirky little town. Western restaurants are ubiquitous, as are gift shops that all sell the same old trinkets. Yet if you hang out awhile, you’ll also see that there’s a very real provincial scene going on in between the cracks.

Sights & Activities

For rock climbing (Click here), boats go from Krabi to Railay. For more activities in the area, Click here.

Khao Khanap Nam cliffs, caves

It’s possible to climb one of these two limestone massifs, just north of the town centre. A number of human skeletons were found in the caves here, thought to be the remains of people trapped during an ancient flood. To get here, charter a long-tail boat from Khong Kha pier for about 400B.

Sea Kayak Krabi kayaking

Offline map Google map

( 0 7563 0270; www.seakayak-krabi.com; 40 Th Ruen Rudee) Offers a wide variety of sea-kayaking tours, including to Ao Thalane (half/full day 900/1500B), which has looming sea cliffs; Ko Hong (full day 1800B), famed for its emerald lagoon; and Ban Bho Tho (full day 1700B), which has sea caves with 2000- to 3000-year-old cave paintings. All rates include guides, lunch, fruit and drinking water.

Blue Juice Divers diving

Offline map Google map

( 0 7563 0679; www.bluejuicedivers.com; Th Chao Fah) This place is in town and has two-dive packages to local islands (2900B). It also runs PADI Open Water courses (13,900B) and it has a guest house.

Tours

Various companies offer day trips to Khlong Thom, about 45km southeast of Krabi on Hwy 4, taking in some nearby hot springs and freshwater pools. Expect to pay around 1000B to 1200B, including transport, lunch and beverages; bring a swimsuit and good walking shoes. Various other ‘jungle tour’ itineraries are available.

Sleeping

Krabi has an exceptional and ever-improving guest-house scene. The midrange and top-end options leave much to be desired (go to Ao Nang if you crave luxury) but the area is developing fast, so more chic options may well open during the life of this book. In the low season, guest-house prices can plummet to as low as 150B.

Chan Cha Lay guest house $

( 0 7562 0952; www.chanchalay.com; 55 Th Utarakit; r 200-650B; ) The en-suite rooms here, all decorated in gorgeous Mediterranean blues and whites with white-pebble and polished-concrete semi-outdoor bathrooms, are Krabi’s most stylish and comfortable. Shared-bathroom, fan-only rooms are plain but spotless with firm beds.

Pak-up Hostel hostel $

Offline map Google map

( 0 7561 1955; www.pakuphostel.com; 87 Th Utarakit; dm 180-200B, d 600B; ) The snazziest hostel on the Andaman coast features several uber-hip polished-cement 10-bed dorm rooms with big wooden bunks built into the wall, each equipped with personal lockers. There’s only one double room, and it’s constructed in the same style. Massive, modern shared bathrooms have cold-water stalls as well as a few hot-water rain showers. There are two on-site bars (one with nightly live music) and a young, hip, club-like vibe.

K Guesthouse guest house $

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 3166; kguesthouse@yahoo.com; 15-25 Th Chao Fah; r 150-600B; ) A Wild West–looking place with varnished wooden rooms that line a second-storey veranda that overlooks the street. Cow heads on the walls and easy socialising in the downstairs cafe add to the frontier appeal.

Krabi Maritime Park & Spa hotel $$$

( 0 7562 0028; www.maritimeparkandspa.com; r from 4200B; ) On lovely riverside grounds and framed by those signature limestone karsts, this run-down, once-glorious hotel is 2km from Krabi town proper. It sports a nightclub, pool, fitness centre, spa and even a lake on which you can pedal swan-shaped boats. There are free shuttle buses to Krabi town and Ao Nang, and shuttle boats to Railay.

Krabi River Hotel hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7561 2321; krabiriver@hotmail.com; 73/1 Th Khong Kha; r 700-1000B; ) Sure, it feels like a flashback from the early ’80s, but rooms have newly tiled bathrooms and queen-sized beds, and offer terrific views of the dark river and misty mangroves. Quiet yet in town, it’s a simple place in a five-star location.

Greenery Hotel hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 3648; http://krabidir.com/thegreenery hotel/index.htm; 167/2 Th Maharat; r 600-800B; ) Rooms here are modern with bright-coloured bedheads, cable TV and minifridges. The semi-outdoor hallways look out over the lush garden, which lends a peaceful feel to the place. It’s about a five- to 10-minute walk from the town centre.

Eating

Night Market Thai $

Offline map Google map

(Th Khong Kha; meals 20-50B) The most popular and pleasant place for an evening meal is this market near the Khong Kha pier. The menus are in English but the food is authentic and excellent. Stalls here sell papaya salad, fried noodles, đôm yam gûng (prawn and lemon grass soup), grilled snapper, huge skillets of egg-battered and fried oysters, all things satay, plus sweet milky Thai desserts.

Day Market Thai $

Offline map Google map

(Th Sukhon; meals 20-60B) This market is even more authentic. Among the bouquets of flowers and weighty tropical-fruit stands are simmering curry pots and banquet trays of steaming noodles with fried squid, sautéed beef, devilled eggs, fried fish and boiled corn. Eat daringly. Though called the day market, it’s open most nights too.

Good Steak House Western $

Offline map Google map

( 08 9724 7008; Th Utarakit; meals from 45B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Airy and bright, with just a half-dozen tables and one large booth. The menu includes steaks and smoked sausage, but it’s the wok stir-fried plates (from 45B) that merit mention here. Think sesame beef in oyster sauce, squid with hot basil, or prawns in chilli paste. Portions aren’t huge, but at these prices who’s complaining?

Cucina Italiana Viva Italian $$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7563 0517; 29 Th Phruksauthit; pizzas 200-260B) This is the place to sample tasty, thin-crust pizza, with a variety of cheeses and toppings to choose from. It has calzones, Italian wine, ice cream and coffee, and it delivers.

Information

Many of Krabi’s guest houses and restaurants offer internet access for 40B to 60B per hour. There are numerous banks and ATMs.

Immigration office ( 0 7561 1350; Th Chamai Anuson; 8.30am-4pm Mon-Fri) Handles visa extensions.

Krabi Hospital ( 0 7561 1210; Th Utarakit) North of town 1km.

Post office (Th Utarakit) Just south of the turn-off to Khong Kha pier.

Getting There & Away

Air

Most domestic carriers offer service between Bangkok and Krabi International Airport (one way around 4400B, 1¼ hours). Bangkok Air (www.bangkokair.com) has daily service to Ko Samui for around 3800B.

Boat

Boats to Ko Phi-Phi and Ko Lanta leave from the passenger pier at Khlong Chilat, about 4km southwest of Krabi. Travel agencies will arrange free transfers when you buy a boat ticket with them.

The largest boat operator is PP Family Co ( 0 7561 2463; www.phiphifamily.com; Th Khong Kha), which has a ticket office right beside the pier in town. In the high season there are boats to Ko Phi-Phi (300B, 1½ hours) at 9am, 10.30am, 1.30pm and 3pm while in low season the schedule is reduced to two boats per day.

From November to May, there is only one daily boat to Ko Lanta (350B, two hours) leaving Krabi at 11.30am. These can also stop at Ko Jum (one hour), where long-tails shuttle you to shore (though you’ll pay the full 350B). During the wet season, you can only get to Ko Lanta by frequent air-con vans (300B, 2½ hours), which also run throughout the high season.

If you want to get to Railay, long-tail boats leave from Krabi’s Khong Kha pier to Hat Railay East (150B, 45 minutes) from 7.45am to 6pm. The boatmen will wait until they can fill a boat with 10 people before they leave; if you’re antsy to go before then, you can charter the whole boat for 1500B.

To get to Phuket or the Ko Yao Islands, the quickest route is with direct boats from the pier at Ao Nang (Click here). Sŏrng·tăa·ou run between the two piers for 50B, or a taxi costs 300B to 400B.

Minivan

Dozens of travel agencies in Krabi run air-con minivans and VIP buses to popular tourist centres throughout southern Thailand, but you may end up crammed cheek to jowl with other backpackers. Most travel agencies also offer combined minivan and boat tickets direct to Ko Samui (500B, 5½ hours) and Ko Pha-Ngan (550B, 7½ hours). Destinations from Krabi:

Destination	Fare (B)	Duration (hr)
Ao Luk	80	1
Hat Yai	350	3
Ko Lanta	350	1½
Phuket	350	2-3
Satun	550	5
Trang	350	2

Sŏrng•tăa•ou

Sŏrng·tăa·ou run from the bus station to central Krabi and on to Hat Noppharat Thara (40B), Ao Nang (60B) and the Shell Cemetery at Ao Nam Mao (80B). There are services from 6am to 6.30pm. In the high season there are less frequent services until 10pm for a 10B surcharge. For Ao Luk (80B, one hour) there are frequent sŏrng·tăa·ou from the corner of Th Phattana and Th Phruksauthit; the last service leaves at around 3pm.

Getting Around

Central Krabi is easy to explore on foot, but the bus terminal and airport are both a long way from the town centre. A taxi from the airport to town will cost 400B. In the reverse direction, taxis cost 350B, while motorcycle taxis cost 300B. Agencies in town can arrange seats on the airport bus for 120B. Sŏrng·tăa·ou between the bus terminal and central Krabi cost 40B.

Hiring a vehicle is an excellent way to explore the countryside around Krabi. Most of the travel agencies and guest houses in town can rent you a Yamaha motorbike for around 200B per day. Yellow House Offline map Google map ( 0 7562 2809; Th Chao Fah) has a gleaming fleet of Yamahas and provides helmets. A few of the travel agencies along Th Utarakit rent out small 4WDs for 1200B to 1800B per day.

Wat Tham Seua

A sprawling hill and cave temple complex 8km northwest of Krabi, Wat Tham Seua (Tiger Cave Temple) is an easy and very worthwhile daytrip from Krabi Town. Although the main wí·hăhn (hall) is built into a long, shallow limestone cave at the wát’s entrance, the best part of the temple grounds can be found by following a loop trail through a little forest valley behind the ridge where the bòht (central sanctuary) is located. You’ll find several limestone caves hiding Buddha images, statues and altars as well as some of the monks’ rustic jungle huts, behind which they hang out their saffron robes to dry. Troops of monkeys cackle from the trees.

Back near the park entrance again, you’ll come to a gruellingly steep 1237 steps (you’ll have the number memorised if you climb them) leading to a 600m karst peak. The fit and fearless are rewarded with a Buddha statue, a gilded stupa and spectacular views; on a clear day you can see well out to sea.

A huge new pagoda with even more stairs to climb was being built near the wát’s parking lot when we passed.

Getting There & Away

A motorcycle taxi or túk-túk from Krabi to Wat Tham Seua costs 100B. By sŏrng·tăa·ou, get on at Krabi’s Th Utarakit for 50B, and tell the driver ‘Wat Tham Seua’. If no one else is going to the wát, the driver may ask an extra fee to drive you down the 300m lane from the main road to the wát’s entrance. It’s just as easy to get off at the road and walk. Motorcycle taxis and túk-túks hang out in the wát parking lot, or you could flag one down on the main road.

Tharnbok Korannee National Park

Close to the small town of Ao Luk, a stunning 46km drive northwest of Krabi, Tharnbok Korannee National Park (Than Bok; adult/child under 14yr 200/100B) protects a large area of islands, mangroves and limestone caves. The most important cave here is Tham Pee Hua Toe (Big-Headed Ghost Cave), reached by long-tail boat or sea kayak from the pier at Ban Bho Tho, 7km south of Ao Luk. Legend has it that a huge human skull was found in the cave, but the ghost story probably has more to do with the 2000- to 3000-year-old cave paintings that adorn the cave walls. Nearby Tham Lot (Tube Cave) can also be navigated by boat. Both caves are popular destinations for sea-kayaking tours from Krabi or Ao Nang, but you can also hire sea kayaks from local guides who grew up in the shadow of the Bho Tho pier. Long-tails are available for 400B.

There are at least seven other caves in the park, including Tham Sa Yuan Thong – a few kilometres southeast of Ao Luk – which has a natural spring bubbling into a pool. The national park also includes the uninhabited island of Ko Hong, which has fine beaches, jungle-cloaked cliffs and a scenic hidden lagoon. Sea-kayak and long-tail tours come here from Ao Nang.

Just to the south of Ao Luk, the park headquarters is a popular picnic spot. You’ll find an 1800m nature trail that links a series of babbling brooks and shady emerald pools connected by little waterfalls. The usual vendors sell noodles, fried chicken and sôm·đam (spicy green papaya salad). There’s also a small visitors centre ( 6am-6pm; park admission 200B) that has displays in Thai and English.

Nearby Ao Them Lem is another stunning panorama of limestone and mangroves laced with concrete streets and sandy lanes. Day-trippers buzz in for long-tail trips to nearby hôrng (semisubmerged island caves) and lagoons, but otherwise this is a mellow, very local village with a few modest resorts.

Discovery Resort ( 08 1298 9533; 500 Moo 1 Kao Tong; bungalows 1300B; ) is the tightest operation. The owner-operator speaks English and her attractive peaked-roof bungalows have cable TV and are almost brand new. She offers kayak tours and rentals, with the mangroves and looming limestone karsts a short drive away. The Ramshackle Coconut Bungalows ( 08 1537 0247; bungalows 500B) are a bit yellow at the edges, but they are clean, spacious and set in a gorgeous coconut grove, steps from the sea with views of hôrng and islands on the horizon.

Getting There & Away

The park headquarters is about 1.5km south of Ao Luk town along Rte 4039. Buses and sŏrng·tăa·ou from Krabi stop on Hwy 4. Catch a government bus to Pha-Ngan or Phuket and ask to be let off at Ao Luk (80B, one hour), from where you can walk down to the park headquarters or take a motorcycle taxi for 15B. The easiest way to get to Tham Pee Hua Toe and Tham Lot is on a sea-kayaking tour from Krabi or Ao Nang.

To get to Ban Bho Tho from Ao Luk under your own steam, take a motorcycle taxi (70B) or a Laem Sak sŏrng·tăa·ou (30B) to the Tham Pee Hua Toe turn-off on Rte 4039. From the junction it’s about 2km to Ban Bho Tho along the first signposted road on the left.

Sŏrng·tăa·ou from Krabi also travel directly to Ao Them Lem (60B).

Ao Nang

pop 12,400

Granted, you’re not breaking ground, but there’s still plenty to like about Ao Nang, a beach town that’s unabashedly devoted to tourism. It all starts with the beaches, framed by limestone headlands tied together by narrow strips of golden sand. In the dry season the sea glows a lovely turquoise hue, in the wet season rip-tides stir up the mocha shallows. If you’re hankering for a swim in crystalline climes at any time of year, you can easily book a trip to the local islands that dot the horizon.

Ao Nang is compact and easy to navigate, and with the onrush of attractive, midrange development, accommodation standards are especially high, with substantial discounts possible. It’s not nearly as cheap (or as authentic) as Krabi town, but it’s cleaner and sunnier; it’s also much better value than what you’ll find in Phuket. There’s plenty to do (mangrove tours? snorkelling trips?), it’s only 40 minutes away from the Krabi airport, and a smooth 20-minute long-tail boat ride from stunning Railay. It’s no wonder this beach is increasingly popular with travellers of every ilk.

Activities

Loads of activities are possible at Ao Nang, and children under 12 typically get a 50% discount.

Kayaking

At least seven companies offer kayaking tours to mangroves and islands around Ao Nang. Popular destinations include the scenic sea lagoon at Ko Hong (1500B to 1800B) to view collection points for sea swallow nests (spurred by demand for bird’s-nest soup). There are also trips to the lofty sea cliffs and wildlife-filled mangroves at Ao Thalane (half-/full day 500/800B) and to the sea caves and 2000- to 3000-year-old paintings at Ban Bho Tho (half-/full day 700/900B). Rates will vary slightly, but always include lunch, fruit, drinking water, sea kayaks and guides.

Diving & Snorkelling

Ao Nang has numerous dive schools offering trips to 15 local islands, including Ko Si, Ko Ha, Yava Bon and Yava Son. It costs about 3200B for two dives. Ko Mae Urai is one of the more unique local dives, with two submarine tunnels lined with soft and hard corals. Other trips run further afield to King Cruiser (three dives 4700B) and Ko Phi-Phi (two dives 3900B). A PADI Open Water course will set you back 14,900B to 16,000B. Reliable dive schools include Ao Nang Divers ( 0 7563 7244; www.aonang-divers.com) and Poseidon Dive Center ( 0 7563 7263; www.poseidon-diving.com). Most dive companies can also arrange snorkelling trips in the area.

Cycling

Take a Tour de Krabi by hooking up with Krabi Eco Cycle ( 0 7563 7250; www.krabiecocycle.com; 41/2 Muu 5; half-/full-day tour 800/1700B). The recommended full-day 15.5km pedal takes you through rubber plantations, small villages, hot springs and, finally, a cooler dip at the aptly named Emerald Pool. Lunch is included on all tours except the half-day bike-only tour.

Courses

Krabi Thai Cookery School cooking

( 0 7569 5133; www.thaicookeryschool.net; 269 Moo 2, Ao Nang, Rte 4204) About 10km from Ao Nang between Wat Sai Thai and Ao Nam Mao, this school offers one-day Thai-cooking courses from 1000B; transfers are included in the price.

Tours

Any agency worth its salt can book you on one of the popular four- or five-island tours for around 2200B. The Ao Nang Long-tail Boat Service 0 7569 5313; www.aonangboatco-op.com) offers private charters for up to six people to Hong Island (2500B) and Bamboo Island (3800B), and the standard five-island tour, of course. You can also book half-day trips to Poda and Chicken Islands (1700B, four hours) for up to four people.

Several tour agencies offer tours to Khlong Thom, including visits to freshwater pools, hot springs and the Wat Khlong Thom Museum; the price per adult/child is 1200/900B. So-called mystery tours visit local snake farms, rural villages, crystal pools and rubber, pineapple, banana and papaya plantations, and cost around 900/450B per adult/child. Tour agencies also offer trips to attractions around Ao Phang-Nga and to a number of dubious animal shows.

You can also arrange day tours to Ko Phi-Phi on the Ao Nang Princess (adult/child 1400/1000B). The boat leaves from the Hat Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters at 9am and visits Bamboo Island, Phi-Phi Don and Phi-Phi Leh. Free transfers from Ao Nang to Hat Noppharat Thara are included in the price.

Sleeping

Prices at all these places drop by 50% during the low season.

Golden Beach Resort hotel $$$

( 0 7563 7870-74; www.goldenbeach-resort.com; r 3900-6100B, bungalows 5100-8100B; ) This sprawling, unpretentious resort dominates the southernmost 400m of Ao Nang’s beachfront – the best part of the beach. It’s made up of large hotel blocks and stylish white cement, wood-trimmed bungalows arranged in garden foliage around a big pool. It’s only verging on hip but it definitely feels good to be here. Check the website for specials.

Red Ginger Chic Resort hotel $$$

( 0 7563 7777; www.redgingerkrabi.com; 88 Moo 3; r 6300-10,900B; ) Fashionable and colourful with detailed tiles, large paper lanterns, and a frosted glass bar in the lobby. Large rooms feature elegant wallpaper, modern furnishings and large balconies overlooking an expansive pool.

Somkiet Buri Resort hotel $$

( 0 7563 7320; www.somkietburi.com; r 3000-10,500B; ) This place just might inspire you to slip into a yoga pose. The lush jungle grounds are filled with ferns and orchids, while lagoons, streams and meandering wooden walkways guide you to the 26 large and creatively designed rooms. A great swimming pool is set amid it all – balconies face either this pool or a peaceful pond. The service is first-rate.

Ao Nang Cliff Resort hotel $$$

( 0 7562 6888; www.aonangcliffbeach.com; r 4500-7500B; ) Think sunken bedrooms, daybeds, duvets and rain showers. The best-situated rooms have cliff and sea views, and the pool outside the lobby is stunning. If you come in the low season, you can grab a room for 2500B.

Ananta Burin hotel $$$

( 0 7566 1551; www.anantaburinresort.com; 166 Moo 3; r 4500-5500B; ) A new splashy boutique resort with an impressive vaulted roof lobby and hotel blocks that horseshoe around a pool. Rooms feature nice design elements, including built-in dark-wood furnishings. First-floor rooms spill directly into the pool.

Verandah hotel $$

( 0 7563 7454; www.theverandahaonang.com; r incl breakfast 1700-2300B; ) Solid value right in the middle of things. Rooms here are simple, spacious and immaculate, with tiled floors, minifridge, hot water, satellite TV and safety boxes. Guests are welcome to use the pool at nearby Peace Laguna Resort.

Apasari hotel $$

( 0 7563 7188; www.apasari.com; r 1800-5800B; ) One of a handful of stylish new midrangers on Ao Nang’s newest boulevard. Rooms have high-end tiled floors, built-in desks and wardrobes, and flat-screen TVs. All rooms have balconies overlooking the lap pool. It’s exceptional value in the low season.

Dream Garden hotel $

( 0 7563 7338; r 950-1200B; ) Walk through the entrance of a dingy travel agency, past a stylish polished-cement spa effusing lemongrass scent, to a two-storey block of plain – but clean and large – tiled rooms with hot water, wood furnishings and small terraces.

Phra Nang Inn hotel $$$

( 0 7563 7130; www.phrananghotels.com; r incl breakfast 4000-9000B; ) An artistic explosion of rustic coconut wood, bright orange and purple paint and plenty of elaborate Thai tiles. There are two pools, and a second, similarly designed branch is across the road from the original.

Aonang Villa Resort hotel $$$

( 0 7563 7270; www.aonangvillaresort.com; r 3600-5400B; ) A pleasant, no-frills, family-oriented seaside joint nestled in the shadow of a towering limestone bluff. It’s just across the street from an OK stretch of beach.

J Hotel hotel $

( 0 7563 7878; j_hotelo@hotmail.com; r from 800B; ) J Hotel is an old standby that caters well to backpackers. Large, bright rooms have new tiled floors, built-in desks, wardrobes and satellite TV, but some smell a bit musty. Sniff well before you commit.

Bernie’s Place hotel $

( 0 7563 7093; r 300-700B; ) The staff look and act like they’re sleepwalking but rooms are big and bright with ceiling fans, and some have sea views from a common verandah. The dark downstairs bar offers protein-packed, backpacker-priced buffets (all you can eat for 250B).

Eating

Ao Nang is full of mediocre roadside restaurants serving Italian, Scandinavian, Indian, Thai and fast food. Prices are a bit inflated but you won’t go hungry. For super-budget meals, a few stalls pop up at night on the road to Krabi (near McDonald’s). You’ll find roti (pancakes), gài tôrt (fried chicken), hamburgers and the like.

Soi Sunset seafood $$

( 0 7569 5260; Soi Sunset; dishes 60-400B; lunch & dinner) At the western end of the beach is this narrow pedestrian-only alley housing several romantic seafood restaurants with gorgeous views of an island-dotted ocean. They all have model ice boats at the entrance showing off the day’s catch and smiling staff to beckon you in to take a seat. One of the best (and most popular) is Krua Ao Nang at the end of the strip .

Bamboo Food Huts Thai $

(meals 35-90B) If you’re in the mood for a ramshackle local food joint, walk a few minutes up the main road to Krabi from the beach to find a row of thatched beach-hut-style eateries. Ignore the Western dishes and dig into something tasty, spicy and authentic, like fried squid with hot basil, seafood đŏm yam or massaman curry. There are plenty of vegie options too. Lucky Yim Restaurant is particularly good.

Coffee Arthit cafe $

( 0 7563 7847; set breakfasts from 120B; breakfast, lunch & dinner; ) An impressive menu including excellent all-day Western-style breakfasts (from continental to vegie and meaty fry-ups). It has tasty espresso, specialty teas, smoothies and protein shakes, too.

Jeanette’s Restaurant Scandinavian, Thai $$

( 08 9474 6178; www.jeanettekrabi.com; dishes 120-450B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) The most popular place in town thanks to its signature bench seating, inkblot art on the walls and traditional Thai menu augmented with Swedish hits (that apple pie does sound good).

Drinking & Entertainment

Last Café cafe, bar $

( 11am-7pm) At the far southern end of Hat Ao Nang is this barefoot beach cafe, with cold beer and cool breezes. Come here for a welcome blast of Ao Nang natural.

Amy’s Bar bar $

( 11am-2am) Give Amy’s points for its floral retro hippy design, which comes with billiards, flat-screen TVs streaming live football games and ladies who love these pursuits. It’s one of several pubs on this soi, which runs perpendicular to the cliff.

Aonang Krabi Muay Thai Stadium Thai boxing $$

( 0 7562 1042; admission 800B, ringside 1200B) If you get tired of the beach-bars and video movies on the strip, this place has boisterous moo · ay tai (Thai boxing; often spelled muay thai) bouts two days a week (check current schedules at any travel agent in town) from 8.45pm. A free sŏrng·tăa·ou runs along the strip at Ao Nang, collecting punters before the bouts.

Information

All the information offices, including Ao Nang Visitor Center ( 0 7562 8221), on the strip, are private tour agencies, and most offer international calls and internet access for around 1B per minute. Several banks have ATMs and foreign-exchange windows (open from 10am to 8pm) on the main drag.

Getting There & Around

Boat

Boats to Railay’s Hat Railay West are run by Ao Nang Long-tail Boat Service ( 0 7569 5313; www.aonangboatco-op.com) and rates are fixed at 80B per person from 7.30am to 6pm or 150B per person from 6pm to 6am. It’s a 15-minute journey – boats leave when there are a minimum of six passengers or you can charter the whole boat by paying for the equivalent of six people. During rough seas, boats leave from a sheltered cove about 200m west of Ao Nang – you can get here from Ao Nang by motorcycle taxi (30B), sŏrng·tăa·ou (10B) or foot.

Ferries and speedboats leave from the nearby pier at Hat Noppharat Thara (Click here) to Ko Phi-Phi, Ko Lanta, Phuket and the Ko Yao Islands.

Car, Bus & Minivan

Ao Nang is served by regular sŏrng·tăa·ou from Krabi (50B, 20 minutes). These start at the Krabi bus terminal (add 10B to the fare) and then pass by the 7-Eleven on Th Maharat and the Khong Kha pier in Krabi, continuing on to Hat Noppharat Thara, Ao Nang and finally the Shell Cemetery. From Ao Nang to Hat Noppharat Thara or the Shell Cemetery it’s 20B. Airport buses to and from Ao Nang cost 80B to 100B and leave throughout the day. Private taxis from the airport cost about 800B. Minibuses go to destinations all over the south including Phuket (350B to 400B, three to four hours), Pak Bara (300B; 3½ hours) and Koh Lanta (400B, two hours).

Dozens of places along the strip rent out small motorcycles for 150B to 200B. Budget Car Hire has desks at most of the big resort hotels and charges around 1600B per day for a dinky Suzuki micro-4WD.

Around Ao Nang

Hat Noppharat Thara

North of Ao Nang, the golden beach goes a bit more au naturel as it curves around a headland for 4km with limited development, until the sea eventually spills into a natural lagoon at the Ko Phi-Phi Marine National Park headquarters. Here scores of long-tails mingle with fishing boats and speedboats against a stunning limestone backdrop. The small visitors centre has displays on coral reefs and mangrove ecology, labelled in Thai and English.

Several resorts advertise a ‘central Ao Nang’ location – so if you don’t like reading fine print, you might end up sleeping out here (though you might prefer it anyway).

Sleeping & Eating

Sala Talay Resort & Spa hotel $$$

( 0 7581 0888; www.salatalay.com; r 10,000-29,000B; ) Just around the bluff from Ao Nang proper, this beautiful new hotel is all moulded concrete, wood and stone. Architectural features include arched walls and frosted-glass awnings, and the property abuts the mangroves. Rooms have polished concrete floors, walls and washbasins, DVD players and flat screen TVs. Online rates are significantly lower than our listed rack rates outside peak season.

Sabai Resort hotel $$

( 0 7563 7791; www.sabairesort.com; bungalows 1300-2200B; ) The most professionally run of the area’s bungalow properties. The tiled-roof bungalows are fan cooled and have pebbled concrete patios overlooking a palm-shaded swimming pool, and a flower garden. It offers massage and accepts credit cards.

Government Bungalows bungalows $

( 0 7563 7200; bungalows 800B-1000B) These wooden, fan-cooled bungalows across the street from the beach are rustic yet well maintained and a terrific budget choice. Prices don’t go up in the high season, but you’d better book ahead. Check in at national park headquarters near the harbour. Meals are no longer served on-site.

Restaurants Thai, Seafood

Around the national park headquarters there are several restaurants serving the usual Thai snacks, such as fried chicken and papaya salad, and there’s a handful of dining stalls and seafood restaurants along the frontage road.

Getting There & Away

Sŏrng·tăa·ou between Krabi and Ao Nang stop in Hat Noppharat Thara; the fare is 40B from Krabi or 10B from Ao Nang.

From November to May the Ao Nang Princess runs between Ko Phi-Phi Marine National Park headquarters and Ko Phi-Phi (400B, two hours). The boat leaves from the national park jetty at 9am, returning from Ko Phi-Phi at 1.30pm. It also stops at Railay’s Hat Railay West. This boat can also be used for day trips to Ko Phi-Phi. During the same high-season months, there’s also a boat to Phuket (700B four hours), leaving from the same pier via Koh Lanta (470B, 1½ hours) at 10.30am and 3.30pm.

A faster alternative to Phuket is to take the Green Planet speedboat (950B, 75 minutes), which goes from Hat Noppharat Thara to Bang Rong Pier, north of Phuket Town via Ko Yao Noi and Koh Yao Yai (both 450B, 45 minutes). The boat leaves Hat Noppharat Thara at 11am and 4pm and transport to your Phuket accommodation is included in the fare.

Railay

Krabi’s fairytale limestone crags come to a dramatic climax at Railay (also spelled Rai Leh), the ultimate jungle gym for rock-climbing fanatics. This quiet slice of paradise fills in the sandy gaps between each craggy flourish, and although it’s just around the bend from chaotic tourist hustle in Ao Nang, the atmosphere here is nothing short of laid-back, Rasta-Thai heaven.

Sights

At the eastern end of Hat Phra Nang is Tham Phra Nang Offline map Google map (Princess Cave), an important shrine for local fishers. Legend has it that a royal barge carrying an Indian princess foundered in a storm here during the 3rd century. The spirit of the drowned princess came to inhabit the cave, granting favours to all who paid their respects. Local fishermen – Muslim and Buddhist – still place carved wooden phalluses in the cave as offerings in the hope that the spirit will provide plenty of fish.

About halfway along the path from Hat Railay East to Hat Phra Nang, a crude path, with somewhat dodgy footing (especially after a rain), leads up the jungle-cloaked cliff wall to a murky hidden lagoon known as Sa Phra Nang (Holy Princess Pool). There’s a dramatic viewpoint over the peninsula from the nearby cliff top. This is a strenuous, if brief, hike.

Above Hat Railay East is another large cave called Tham Phra Nang Nai Offline map Google map (Inner Princess Cave; adult/child 40/20B; 5am-8pm), also known as Diamond Cave. A wooden boardwalk leads through a series of caverns full of beautiful limestone formations but, with shifting rain patterns, the water is gone and with it the illuminati effects that won the diamond moniker. But even in monochrome conditions, it’s still worth a stroll.

Activities

Rock Climbing

With nearly 500 bolted routes, ranging from beginner to challenging advanced climbs, all with unparalleled cliff-top vistas, it’s no surprise that Railay is among the top climbing spots in the world. You could spend months climbing and exploring – and many people do. The newest buzz is deep-water soloing where climbers free-climb ledges over deep water – if you fall you will most likely just get wet, so even daring beginners can give this a try.

Most climbers start off at Muay Thai Wall Offline map Google map and One, Two, Three Wall, at the southern end of Hat Railay East, which have at least 40 routes graded from 4b to 8b on the French system. The mighty Thaiwand Wall Offline map Google map sits at the southern end of Hat Railay West and offers a sheer limestone cliff with some of the most challenging climbing routes.

Other top climbs include Hidden World Offline map Google map (some classic routes for intermediate climbers), Wee’s Present Wall Offline map Google map (an overlooked 7c+ gem), Diamond Cave Offline map Google map (another beginner-to-intermediate favourite) and Ao Nang Tower Offline map Google map (a three-pitch climbing wall reached only by long-tail).

The going rate for climbing courses is 800B to 1000B for a half-day and 1500B to 2000B for a full day. Three-day courses (6000B) will involve lead climbing, where you clip into bolts on the rock face as you ascend. Experienced climbers can rent gear sets from any of the climbing schools for 800/1300B for a half-/full day – the standard set consists of a 60m rope, two climbing harnesses and climbing shoes. If you’re planning to climb independently, you’re best off bringing your own gear from home; be sure to bring plenty of slings and quickdraws, chalk (sweaty palms are inevitable in the tropics) and a small selection of nuts and cams as backup for thinly protected routes. If you forget anything, some climbing schools sell a small range of imported climbing gear but they might not have exactly what you need or the right size. A woven rattan mat (available locally for 100B to 150B) will help keep the sand out of your gear.

Several locally published books detail climbs in the area, but Rock Climbing in Thailand (US$40), by Elke Schmitz and Wee Changrua, is one of the more complete guides. Recommended climbing shops:

Highland Rock Climbing rock climbing

( 08 0693 0374; chaow_9@yahoo.com; Hat Railay East) If you’re bunking on the mountain, this is the man to climb with.

Hot Rock rock climbing

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 1771; www.railayadventure.com; Hat Railay West) Has a very good reputation and is owned by one of the granddaddies of Railay climbing.

King Climbers rock climbing

Offline map Google map

( 0 7563 7125; www.railay.com; Hat Railay East) One of the biggest, oldest, most reputable and commercial schools.

Wee’s Climbing School rock climbing

Offline map Google map

( 08 1149 9745; www.tonsai basecamp; Hat Ton Sai) Arguably the most professional outfit in the area.

Water Sports

Several dive operations in Railay run trips out to Ko Poda and other dive sites. Two local dives at outlying islands costs about 2000B while a three- or four-day PADI Open Water dive course is 12,000B.

Full-day, multi-island snorkelling trips to Ko Poda, Chicken Island and beyond can be arranged through any of the resorts for about 1800B (maximum six people) or you can charter a long-tail (half/full-day 1700/2200B) from Hat Railay West beach. If you just want to snorkel off Railay, most resorts can rent you a mask set and fins for 100B to 150B each.

Flame Tree Restaurant Offline map Google map (Hat Railay West) rents out sea kayaks for 200B per hour or 800B per day. Overnight trips to deserted islands can be arranged with local boat owners, but you’ll need to bring your own camping gear and food.

Courses

Railay Thai Cookery School Cooking

Offline map Google map

(Railay Headlands; 08 4096 4994; courses 1200B) Right below Railay Phutawan Restaurant offers five-hour courses in a lovely semi-outdoor setting at 8.30am and 2.30pm daily.

Sleeping & Eating

Hat Railay West

It’s all midrange and top-end options on this beach (where sunsets are fabulous), but rates often drop by 30% in the low season. All the resorts have decent restaurants.

Railay Bay Resort & Spa hotel $$$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 2570-2; www.railaybayresort.com; bungalows 3700-17,800B; ) The amoeba-shaped blue pool here faces onto the best bit of the beach, so you can switch between salt and fresh water. Elegant bungalows with big windows, white walls and rustic-chic timber terraces run right across the peninsula to Hat Railay East via gorgeously planted grounds and a second pool. Bungalows on the east side are older, with dark-tinted windows, and are the least expensive. The spa, which also overlooks the sea, offers a host of treatments at reasonable prices.

Railay Village Resort & Spa hotel $$$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7563 7990; www.railayvillagekrabi.com; bungalows 7500-10,500B; ) A relatively new villa property featuring posh bungalows with private hot tubs spread throughout gardens of lily ponds, tall palms and gurgling fountains, and alongside two pools. The open-air restaurant serves excellent green curry and particularly convincing Western-style pastas that are a boon if you’re travelling with children.

Railei Beach Club Villa Rental $$

Offline map Google map

( 08 6685 9359; www.raileibeachclub.com; houses from 2800B) Hidden in forested grounds at the northern end of the beach, this is a collection of Thai-style homes, each unique in size and design, rented out on behalf of foreign owners. They come with patios, kitchens and amenities to make extended stays very comfortable. Some sleep up to eight people. It’s a superb deal and location, so book well in advance for the high season.

Sand Sea Resort hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 2608; www.krabisandsea.com; bungalows incl breakfast 1950-5950B; ) The lowest-priced resort on this beach offers everything from ageing fan-only bungalows to newly remodelled cottages with every amenity. The grounds aren’t as swank as the neighbours, but rooms are comfy enough and there’s a peaceful karst-view, foliage-enclosed pool – if you’re able to tear yourself away from that sublime beach out the front, that is. The restaurant here does a full buffet breakfast.

Hat Railay East

Hat Railay East, also called Sunrise Beach, recedes to mud flats during low tide and can get steamy hot if the breezes aren’t blowing your way. That said, this is where the cheaper restaurants and bars are concentrated, and it’s only a five-minute walk to better beaches.

The following rates drop by half in the low season.

Sunrise Tropical Resort hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 2599; www.sunrisetropical.com; bungalows incl breakfast 2500-5750B; ) Bungalows here rival the better ones on Hat Railay West but are priced for Hat Railay East – so we think this is one of the best deals in Railay. Expect hardwood floors, Thai-style furniture, lush bathrooms with bright aqua tiles and private balconies or patios.

Bhu Nga Thani hotel $$$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7581 9451; www.bhungathani.com; r from 7500B, villas 25,000B; ) The newest, splashiest and easily the priciest spot on Railay East. The entry is elegant with louvred bridges over reflection pools. Rooms are exceptionally well built with high ceilings, limestone floors and all the amenities of a 4½-star joint, including wide terraces with magnificent karst views.

Anyavee hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7581 9437; www.anyavee.com; bungalows 2800-7000B; ) A quirky resort but one with more style than most on this beach. Bungalows here have lots of windows making them bright but not private. Interiors are country chic, with cream-and-beige plaid duvets and plenty of hardwoods.

Rapala Rockwood Resort bungalows $

Offline map Google map

( 08 4191 5326; bungalows 500-750B) Ramshackle bamboo bungalows have verandahs, bathrooms, mosquito nets and fans. The delightful location atop a hill means breezes and views of the sea (and your neighbours). The cushion-lined restaurant here is perfect for chilling – it serves Thai and Indian food and is run by a charming Thai grandma.

Railay Ya Ya Resort hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 2593; www.railayyayaresort.com; r 1600-2000B; ) The large wooden-panelled rooms are a bit dark, and some seem to shudder with every footstep, but the treehouse vibe works. Fan-cooled rooms are dingy but the air-con rooms are brightly painted, clean and good value. Its low-season discounts (rooms from 500B), which can extend into the fringe season, make this place a steal.

Mangrove Restaurant Thai $

Offline map Google map

(dishes from 50B) This humble, local-style place just off east beach turns out all your spicy Thai faves cheaply. It has fried rice and noodles, curries and sôm đam. Praise goes to the kitchen’s matriarch. She means business, and her husband can turn a spoon just fine, too.

Railay Highlands

The resorts in the highlands above the beach are among the best-value lodging in the area.

Railay Phutawan Resort hotel $$

( 08 4060 0550, 0 7581 9478; www.phuritvalleyresort.com; bungalows 1140-1940B, r 1640B; ) This place doesn’t really know its name yet (it’s also called the Railay Phurit Valley Resort and the Highland Resort), so just call it a great place to stay. The best options are the super-spacious polished-cement bungalows highlighted with creamy yellow walls, big rain-shower bathrooms and all the trimmings of a high-end resort. Tiled rooms in an apartment-style block are a step down in luxury, but very comfortable and fan-cooled bungalows with bamboo ceilings are musty but good value. The staff is adorable.

Railay Cabana guest house $

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 1733, 08 4057 7167; bungalows 350-600B) Superbly located high in the hills in a bowl of karst cliffs, this is your hippy tropical mountain hideaway. Simple, clean thatched-bamboo bungalows are surrounded by mango, mangosteen, banana and guava groves. The only sounds are birds chirping and children laughing.

Railay Phutawan Resort Restaurant Thai, Western $

(meals 80-180B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Dine during the day to appreciate the views of dense jungle and karst cliffs. But the food (Thai and Western) is great any time. Try to get one of the intimate shaded booths at the jungle’s edge.

Hat Tham Phra Nang

There’s only one place to stay on this magnificent beach and it’s a doozy.

Rayavadee hotel $$$

( 0 7562 0740-3; www.rayavadee.com; pavilions 22,300-39,900B, villas 72,000-128,000B; ) This exclusive resort has sprawling grounds that are filled with banyan trees and flowers, dotted with meandering ponds, and navigated by golf buggies. It’s arguably one of the best hunks of beachfront property in Thailand. The two-storey, mushroom-domed pavilions are filled with antique furniture and every mod con – as well as the occasional private jacuzzi, swimming pool or butler service. There are yoga classes for guests, tours offered in luxury speedboats and a first-rate spa. Two restaurants grace Hat Tham Phra Nang (one is half inside an illuminated cave) and nonguests can stop in for pricey but divine Thai or Mediterranean meals.

Hat Ton Sai

There are plenty of backpacker options and this is the beach to go to if you’re serious about climbing. For the best cheap eats go to the row of food shacks leading inland from the beach.

Countryside Resort hotel $

Offline map Google map

( 08 5473 9648; countryside-resort.com; cabins 850B; ) A UK-owned property with two rows of attractive, solar-powered cabins, which makes them the most ecologically sound in Railay. There are high ceilings, lace curtains and ceiling fans. Top-row nests have insane karst views, and you’ll love Ewok-faced Ollie, the property mascot.

Paasook hotel $

Offline map Google map

( 08 9645 3013; bungalows 300-800B) Definitely the most stylish budget establishment on Ton Sai: wooden bungalows are huge, have elongated floor-to-ceiling windows and concrete floors. This place is at the far western end of the beach, right beneath Groove Tube. The gardens are lush, management is friendly and there’s a rustic-chic outdoor restaurant, perfect for steamy evenings.

Mountain View Resort hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 0 7562 2610-3; bungalows 1300-1900B; ) Bright, cheery and immaculate with mint-green walls, tiled floors and crisp sheets in lodge-like environs. Some rooms are slightly musty, so sniff around.

Forest Resort hotel $$

Offline map Google map

( 08 0143 8261; bungalows 1000B) A collection of large, basic, thatched bungalows perched on a flowery hillside with typically amazing limestone views. It also has a groovy restaurant, made from sculpted wood, serving Indian food among other dishes.

Pyramid Bar & Restaurant International $

Offline map Google map

(dishes from 60B, drinks from 30B) The most popular hangout in Ton Sai. It does fresh fruit lassis, shakes, ciabatta and baguette sandwiches with home-baked loaves, and tasty espresso drinks in thatched treehouse environs. Hit one of the hammocks or lounge on the floor cushions and stay a while.

Drinking & Entertainment

There’s a bunch of places on the beaches where you can unwind and get nicely inebriated.

Chill Out Bar bar $

(Hat Ton Sai) Right on the beach and with Thai lounging mats strewn over several levels of decks, this is where the bigger-name Thai and international bands play when they’re in town. At other times, it’s the ideal place to lounge with a beer.

Highland Rock Climbing cafe $

Offline map Google map

( 08 0693 0374; Railay Headlands) Part climbing school, part cafe cobbled from driftwood and dangling with orchids. The owner, Chaow, sources his beans from sustainable farms in Chiang Rai, and serves the best coffee on the peninsula.

Ya-ya Bar bar $

Offline map Google map

(Railay Headlands) Ya-ya Bar has an awesome setting under a massive climbing wall. It’s enveloped by jungle and has a drinking gazebo perched atop a boulder. Bob Marley looms like a patron saint. Mojitos (160B) are poured liberally. There’s also a Thai boxing ring with courses on demand offered at 500B per hour.

Chok’s Bar bar $

Offline map Google map

(Hat Railay East; 7pm-2am) A stylish, laid-back bamboo bar with live music almost nightly, decorated with bamboo mats and plenty of pillows to lean into. A popular hang-out when we came through.

Information

The website www.railay.com has lots of information about Railay. There are two ATMs along Hat Railay East. On Hat Ton Sai there is one ATM near the Ton Sai Bay Resort. Several of the bigger resorts can change cash and travellers cheques. For minor climbing injuries there’s a small clinic at Railay Bay Resort & Spa (Click here).

Wi-fi availability will depend on where you stay. If you lack the hardware, try Phra Nang Tours & Travel (internet per min 1B) on east beach.

Getting There & Around

Long-tail boats to Railay run from Khong Kha pier in Krabi and from the seafronts of Ao Nang and Ao Nam Mao. Boats between Krabi and Hat Railay East leave every 1½ hours from 7.45am to 6pm when they have six to 10 people (150B, 45 minutes). Chartering a special trip will set you back 1500B.

Boats to Hat Railay West or Hat Ton Sai from the eastern end of the promenade at Ao Nang costs 80B (15 minutes) from 7.30am to 6pm or 150B at other times; boats don’t leave until six to eight people show up. Private charters cost 800B. If seas are rough, boats leave from a sheltered cove just west of Krabi Resort in Ao Nang. You can be dropped at Hat Phra Nang or Hat Ton Sai for the same fare.

During exceptionally high seas the boats from Ao Nang and Krabi stop running, but you may still be able to get from Hat Railay East to Ao Nam Mao (100B, 15 minutes), where you can pick up a sŏrng·tăa·ou to Krabi or Ao Nang.

From October to May the Ao Nang Princess runs from Hat Noppharat Thara National Park headquarters to Ko Phi-Phi with a stop at Hat Railay West. Long-tails run out to meet the boat at around 9.15am from in front of the Sand Sea Resort (Click here). The fare to Ko Phi-Phi from Railay is 350B.

Ko Phi-Phi Don

Oh, how beauty can be a burden. Like Marilyn Monroe, Phi-Phi Don’s stunning looks have become its own demise. Everyone wants a piece of her. Though not exactly Hollywood, this is Thailand’s Shangri La: a hedonistic paradise where tourists cavort in azure seas and snap pictures of long-tails puttering between craggy cliffs. With its flashy, curvy, blonde beaches and bodacious jungles, it’s no wonder that Phi-Phi has become the darling of the Andaman coast. And, like any good starlet, this island can party hard all night and still look like a million bucks the next morning. Unfortunately, nothing can withstand this glamorous pace forever, and unless limits are set, Phi-Phi is in for an ecological crash.

Activities

The strenuous climb to the Phi-Phi viewpoint is a rewarding short hike. Follow the signs from the road heading east towards Ao Lo Dalam from the Tourist Village. The viewpoint is reached via a 300m vertical climb that includes hundreds of steep steps and narrow twisting paths. The views from the top are amazing – this is where you can see Phi-Phi’s lush mountain butterfly brilliance in full bloom. From here you can head over the hill through the jungle to the peaceful eastern beaches for a DIY snorkelling tour.

Ao Lo Dalam is ripe for exploration. Stop at the kayak rental stall Offline map (per hr 200B, full day 600B) on the sand in front of Slinky Bar, paddle out to the headland and dive in.

Diving

Crystal Andaman water and abundant marine life make the perfect recipe for top-notch scuba. Popular sights include the King Cruiser Wreck, sitting a mere 12m below the surface; Anemone Reef, teeming with hard corals and clownfish; Hin Bida, a submerged pinnacle attracting turtles and large pelagic fish; and Ko Bida Nok, with its signature karst massif luring leopard sharks. Hin Daeng and Hin Muang (Click here), to the south, are expensive ventures from Ko Phi-Phi – it’s cheaper to link up with a dive crew in Ko Lanta.

An Open Water certification course costs around 12,900B, while the standard two-dive trips cost from 3200B. Trips out to Hin Daeng or Hin Muang will set you back 5500B.

Adventure Club diving

Offline map

( 08 1970 0314; www.phi-phi-adventures.com) Our favourite diving operation on the island runs an excellent assortment of educational, eco-focused diving, hiking and snorkelling tours. You won’t mind getting up at 6am for the much-loved shark-watching snorkel trips on which you’re guaranteed to cavort with at least one reef shark.

Blue View Divers diving

( 0 7581 9395; www.blueviewdivers.com) Focuses on community involvement and beach clean-ups (its latest cleared up 700 tonnes of rubbish) and is the only shop to offer dives from a long-tail.

Snorkelling

A popular snorkelling destination is Ko Mai Phai (Bamboo Island), north of Phi-Phi Don. There’s a shallow area here where you may see small sharks. Snorkelling trips cost between 600B and 2400B, depending on whether you travel by long-tail or motorboat. On Ko Phi-Phi there is good snorkelling along the eastern coast of Ko Nok, near Ao Ton Sai, and along the eastern coast of Ko Nai. If you’re going on your own, most bungalows and resorts rent out a snorkel, mask and fins for 150B to 200B per day.

Rock Climbing

Yes, there are good limestone cliffs to climb on Ko Phi-Phi, and the views are spectacular. The main climbing areas are Ton Sai Tower, at the western edge of Ao Ton Sai, and Hin Taak, a short long-tail boat ride around the bay. There are some good climbing shops on the island and most places charge around 1000B for a half-day of climbing or 1500B to 2000B for a full day, including instruction and gear. Spider Monkey Offline map ( 0 7581 9384; www.spidermonkeyclimbing.com) is run by Soley, one of the most impressive climbers on Phi-Phi. One of the bigger outfits around is Cat’s Climbing Shop Offline map ( 08 1787 5101; www.catclimbingshop.com) in the Tourist Village. Cat’s gets good reports for safety and service.

Courses

Pum Restaurant & Cooking School cooking

Offline map

( 08 1521 8904; www.pumthaifoodchain.com; classes 450-4650B) Thai-food fans can take cooking courses here in the Tourist Village. You’ll learn to make some of the excellent dishes that are served in its restaurant and go home with a great cookbook. Recommended.

Tours

Ever since Leo smoked a spliff in Alex Garland’s The Beach, Phi-Phi Leh has become somewhat of a pilgrimage site. Aside from long-tail boat tours to Phi-Phi Leh and Ko Mai Phai (Bamboo Island), tour agencies can arrange sunset tours to Monkey Bay and the beach at Wang Long, both on Phi-Phi Leh, for 600B. Adventure Club (Click here) is a good choice.

Sleeping

Finding accommodation on this ever-popular island has never been easy and you can expect serious room shortages at peak holiday times. Masses of touts meet incoming boats and, while often annoying, can make your life easier.

Be sure you lock the door while you sleep and close all the windows when you go out. Break-ins can be a problem.

Ao Ton Sai & Ao Lo Dalam

During high season the pedestrian-only streets in this area get so packed it’s like moving through crowds at a rock concert. Euphemistically, central Tonsai is called the ‘Tourist Village’.

The beach at Ao Dalam is the island’s prettiest – a screensaver-worthy crescent of white sand backed by stunning karst cliffs. But it’s clogged with people and long-tail boats, and locals complain the water is polluted from the beach bar clientele’s cigarette butts and day-visitors’ sunscreen, urine and boat fuel.

The Ao Ton Sai coastline is even busier with the main ferry pier and a concrete ocean-front promenade, but peace can be found at the far western end, which has been roped off for swimming.

Mama Beach Residence hotel $$

( 08 8443 1363, 0 7560 1365; www.mama-beach.com; r 2500-3800B; ) Popular with French travellers, this is an uncommonly chic block-style hotel right on the best part of Ao Ton Sai beach. Mod-con-equipped rooms have large white tiled floors, sea-view terraces with relaxing wood deck furniture, and bathrooms with stone sinks and showers bordered with loose seashells. Seaside yoga classes (75-minute class 400B) are offered several nights a week at 6pm.

PP Viewpoint Resort hotel $$

( 0 7560 1200, 0 7561 8111; www.phiphiviewpoint.com; bungalows 1700-3500B; ) At the far northeastern end of Ao Lo Dalam, wooden bungalows sit high on stilts and enjoy awesome views. It has a small swimming pool that practically drops into the ocean below and a glass-walled tower with 360-degree views where you can pamper yourself with a Thai massage. The Ao Dalam party can be heard up here, so bring earplugs.

Chunut House guest house $$

Offline map

( 0 7560 1227; www.phiphichunuthouse.com; bungalows 2500-3500B; ) On a quiet path away from the bazaar of the Tourist Village, this place is refreshingly tranquil. Spacious wooden and bamboo bungalows are dripping with naturalistic mobiles, planters and crafty touches, and have clean tiled bathrooms. Its rates have dramatically increased recently, making it only OK value.

White guest house $$

Offline map

( 0 7560 1300; www.whitephiphi.com; r 1500-1800B; ) Geared towards the ‘flashpacker’ crowd, the White has two comfy and surprisingly quiet locations in Tonsai Village – the better being the White 2, which has a few rooftop suites with patios. Squeaky clean rooms, decked out with TVs and safes, are very white (of course), with hip touches like tiny black-and-white-tiled hot-water bathrooms.

Uphill Cottage guest house $

Offline map

( 0 7560 1124, 08 6553 2316; www.phiphiuphillcottage.com; r 700-1500B; ) Rooms are basic, but they’re big and clean, and you can only faintly hear the noise from the tourist-centre party. Aptly named, this place is (surprise!) perched on a hill near the viewpoint path. Rooms have terraces with views over town and a hint of the sea.

Oasis Guesthouse guest house $

Offline map

( 0 7560 1207; r 900B; ) It’s worth the walk up the side road east of the village centre to find this cute guest house with wooden shutters surrounded by trees. The innkeeper can be surly, but freshly painted rooms have sparkling bathrooms. He won’t take reservations. It’s first come, first serve donly.

Rock Backpackers hostel $

Offline map

( 08 1607 3897; dm 300B, r 400-600B) A proper hostel on the village hill, with clean dorms lined with bunk beds, tiny private rooms, an inviting restaurant-bar and a rugged, graffiti-scrawled exterior.

Hat Hin Khom

This area actually has a few small white-sand beaches in rocky coves, some of which are relatively quiet. It’s about a 15-minute jungle walk from both Hat Yao and the Ao Ton Sai bustle, which unfortunately means you will hear whatever the DJs are spinning.

Viking Natures Resort hotel $$

( 08 3649 9492; www.vikingnaturesresort.com; bungalows 1000-6500B; ) OK, it’s funky (in all senses of the word) and not the place to stay if you’re afraid of jungle insects and critters, but the wood, thatch and bamboo bungalows here are dreamily creative and stylish with lots of driftwood, shell mobiles and hammock-decked lounging spaces with outrageous views of Ko Phi-Phi Leh. All bungalows have mosquito nets and balconies, but the cheaper rooms don’t have their own bathrooms. We say splurge for one of several wooden lodge rooms. They open onto inviting verandahs, are well lit with groovy lanterns and have huge bathrooms and high ceilings.

Hat Yao

You can either walk here in about 30 minutes from Tonsai via Hat Hin Khom or take a long-tail (100B to 150B) from Tonsai pier. This long stretch of pure-white beach is perfect for swimming and well worth the walk but don’t expect to have it to yourself – it’s popular with families and sporty types playing volleyball. A trail leads from here over to beautiful and secluded Ao Lo Mu Di.

Phi-Phi Hill Resort guest house $$

( 0 7561 8203; www.phiphihill.com; bungalows 700-2000B; ) High up in a very quiet plantation of banana, mango and plumeria, this simple resort spans the southern bluff of Ko Phi-Phi Don, so you can watch the sun rise on one side and set on the other. The best deals are the big, clean wooden fan-cooled cold-water bungalows on the sunset side. Every option has a life-altering view and there’s a good restaurant perched on a breezy cliff. It closes from May to October.

Beach Resort hotel $$$

( 0 7561 8268; phiphithebeach.com; bungalows 3450-5350B; ) An expanding class act with a tiny pool and chic bar, this place swarms with package tourists looking for (and finding) comfort. The Thai-style teak bungalows are spacious and elegant, and built in an orderly fashion on a manicured jungle hillside with stunning views of Ko Phi-Phi Leh. It’s by far the most attractive and stylish place on this beach.

The Paradise hotel $$

( 08 1788 7868, 08 9077 7939; zer_zaa@hotmail.com, osopang@hotmail.com; bungalows from 1500B; ) This is the cutest place on Hat Yao and has comfy blue concrete bungalows in a flower-filled garden. It’s not as big, flashy or expensive as the competition but the beach is the same and the rooms are a clean and air-conditioned standard.

Hat Rantee & Ao Toh Ko

Still fairly low-key, this series of small, remote eastern bays is home to a few modest family-run bungalows (some starting at 600B). The pretty beaches here are grey-gold and have rocky outcroppings and excellent snorkelling. You can either get here by long-tail from Ao Ton Sai pier (300B – although most resorts provide free pick up if you reserve and the return trip is 150B) or by making the strenuous 45-minute hike over the viewpoint.

Toh Ko Beach Resort guest house $$

( 08 1537 0528; www.tohkobeachresort.com; bungalows 1000-2800B; ) All alone on white, mellow Ao Toh Ko, there’s a summer-camp camaraderie here with several long-term guests and plenty of new ones who wish they were long term. Simple, wooden or bamboo fan-cooled bungalows are perched on a hill (think: hammock and sea view) and have stone baths and mosquito nets. There are also family rooms and a big, friendly restaurant right on the beach, where you’ll find kayaks and snorkel gear for rent.

Rantee Hut guest house $

( 08 9741 4846; bungalows 700-1000B) It’s a little confusing where this place begins and ends, as its basic wood, cement or bamboo huts perched on a hill are identical to those of the places (all named Rantee this or that) on either side. Rantee Hut stands out for its groovy seaview restaurant strewn with lounging cushions and seeping mellow reggae tunes. Snorkelling trips to Bamboo Island cost 600B.

Hat Phak Nam

This gorgeous white-sand beach is nestled on the same bay as a small fishing hamlet. To get here, you can either charter a long-tail from Ao Ton Sai for around 500B (150B by shared taxi boat upon your return), or make the very sweaty one-hour hike over the viewpoint.

Relax Beach Resort hotel $$

( 08 1083 0194, 08 9475 6536; www.phiphirelaxresort.com; bungalows 1400-4400B; ) There are 47 unpretentious but pretty Thai-style bungalows with wood floors, two-tiered terraces with lounging cushions and mosaic baths in the newest nests. All are rimmed by lush jungle – the resort has a good restaurant and breezy bar, and it’s worked by incredibly charming staff who greet and treat you like family. It’s one of the best choices on the island, so reserve ahead. You can walk to Hat Rantee at low tide.

Ao Lo Bakao

This fine stretch of palm-backed sand ringed by dramatic hills is one of Phi-Phi’s most lovely, with offshore views over aqua bliss to Bamboo and Mosquito Islands. Think of it as a cheaper version of Bora Bora. Phi-Phi Island Village arranges transfers for guests, but on your own a charter from Ao Ton Sai will cost 800B.

Phi-Phi Island Village hotel $$$

( 0 7636 3700; www.ppisland.com; bungalows 7200-21,500B; ) This place really is a village unto itself: its whopping 100 bungalows take up much of the beachfront with palms swaying between them. Facilities vary from the family friendly and casual to romantic dining experiences and pampering spa treatments. It offers dozens of activities and excursions. The infinity pool blends seamlessly into the ocean, and fresh flowers are artfully arranged throughout the resort. Good living with a whiff of old-school luxury if you have the means.

Hat Laem Thong

The beach here is long, white and sandy with a small, rubbish-strewn chow lair (sea gypsy) settlement of corrugated metal shacks at the north end. Despite the upmarket offerings, the beach is really busy and all the hotels are packed together. There are a few local-style seafood restaurants within the bustle that are worth a try. A long-tail charter from Ao Ton Sai costs 800B. Operators can also arrange transfers.

Zeavola hotel $$$

( 0 7562 7000; www.zeavola.com; bungalows 9900-26,900B; ) Hibiscus-lined pathways lead to shady teak bungalows with sleek, distinctly Asian indoor-outdoor floorplans. Each comes with glass walls on three sides (with remote-controlled bamboo shutters for privacy), beautiful 1940s fixtures and antique furniture, a patio and impeccable service. Some villas come with a private pool and there’s a fabulous couples-oriented spa.

Holiday Inn Phi-Phi Island hotel $$$

( 0 7562 7300; www.phiphi.holidayinn.com; bungalows 8297-10,400B; ) This is your standard Thailand-issue Holiday Inn – which means it’s comfortable, white-concrete-with-dark-trim chic and filled with active types milling around the pool. You’ll find tennis courts, beckoning hammocks, a spa and a dive centre. The restaurant has a gorgeous alfresco deck with sea views.

Eating

Most of the resorts, hotels and bungalows around the island have their own restaurants. Ao Ton Sai is home to some reasonably priced restaurants but don’t expect haute cuisine.

Local Food Market Thai $

Offline map

( breakfast, lunch & dinner) The cheapest and most authentic eats are at the market. A handful of local stalls huddle on the narrowest sliver of the isthmus and serve up scrumptious pàt tai, fried rice, som tam and smoked cat fish. Walls are scrawled with the blessings of a thousand travellers.

Unni’s Western $$

Offline map

(mains around 120B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Come here for lunch to dine on homemade bagels topped with everything from smoked salmon to meatballs. There are also massive salads, Mexican food, tapas, cocktails and more. It’s a chic cafe lounge-style place with cooling overhead fans and jazzy mood music.

Garlic Restaurant Thai $

Offline map

( 08 3502 1426; dishes 45-95B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) A bright shack-like place that’s always packed with happy travellers chowing terrific, not-too-spicy Thai food. It has all the usuals and an ice raft of fresh catch at supper.

Le Grand Bleu Fusion $$$

Offline map

( 08 1979 9739; mains 195-695B; lunch & dinner) Thai–Euro fusion set in a charming wooden house just off the main pier. It serves French and Aussie wines, and you can get your duck wok-fried with basil or oven-roasted and caramelised with mango. It closes between 2pm and 6.30pm.

Papaya Restaurant Thai $

Offline map

( 08 7280 1719; dishes 80-300B) Cheap, tasty and spicy. Here’s some real-deal Thai food served in heaping portions. It has your basil and chilli, all the curries and đŏm yam, too.

Cosmic WEstern, Thai $$

Offline map

(pizzas from 160B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This longstanding favourite still cranks out some of Phi-Phi’s best pizzas as well as Western and Thai fare.

Drinking

A rowdy nightlife saturates Phi-Phi. Buckets of cheap whiskey and Red Bull, and sticky-sweet cocktails make this the domain for spring break wannabes and really bad hangovers. This is also the only place in Thailand where you’re beckoned into bars by scantily clad fa·ràng (Western) girls, who are workin’ it for free booze – yup, Phi-Phi is that kind of place. The truth is that if you’re nesting within earshot of the wilds, you may as well enjoy the chaos.

Sunflower Bar bar $

(Ao Lo Dalam) Poetically ramshackle, this driftwood gem is still the chillest bar in Phi-Phi. Destroyed in the 2004 tsunami, the owner rebuilt it with reclaimed wood. The long-tail booths are named for the four loved ones he lost in the flood.

Reggae Bar bar $$

Offline map

(Tourist Village) You haven’t experienced Phi-Phi’s nightlife until you’ve watched tourists (men and women) beat the crap out of each other in this rowdy bar’s Thai boxing ring. Both contestants get a free bucket to ease the pain.

Slinky Bar club $$

Offline map

(Ao Lo Dalam) This was the beach dancefloor of the moment when we visited. Expect the standard fire show, buckets of souped-up candy juice and throngs of Thais, local expats and tourists mingling, flirting and flailing to throbbing bass on the sand.

Breakers bar $$

Offline map

(Tourist Village; burgers 200-240B; 11am-2am; ) A sportsbar as good for TV football as it is for people-watching and great food. The burgers and steaks are awesome, and the starter plate sampler with a bit of everything from yummy buffalo wings to potato skins can feed a handful of pint swillers.

Information

ATMs and internet shops (per minute 2B) are spread thickly throughout the Tourist Village but aren’t available on the more remote eastern beaches. Wi-fi is available at D’s Bookshop ( 7am-10pm) in the heart of the Tourist Village. It also sells new and used fiction, and pours a decent espresso (50B).

Getting There & Away

Ko Phi-Phi can be reached from Krabi, Phuket, Ao Nang, Railay and Ko Lanta. Most boats moor at Ao Ton Sai, though a few from Phuket use the isolated northern pier at Laem Thong. The Phuket and Krabi boats operate year-round, while the Ko Lanta and Ao Nang boats only run in the October-to-April high season.

Ko Phi-Phi Boats depart from Krabi for Ko Phi-Phi (300B, 1½ hours) at 9am and 3.30pm, and from Ao Nang (350B, 1½ hours) there’s one boat per day at 3.30pm.

Phuket From Phuket, boats leave at 9am, 2.30pm and 3pm and return from Ko Phi-Phi at 9am, 1.30pm and 3pm (400B, 1¾ to two hours).

Ko Lanta To Ko Lanta, boats leave Phi-Phi at 11.30am and 2pm and return from Ko Lanta at 8am and 1pm (300B, 1½ hours).

Railay For Railay (350B, 1¼ hours) take the Ao Nang–bound ferry.

Getting Around

There are no roads on Phi-Phi Don, so transport on the island is mostly by foot, although long-tails can be chartered at Ao Ton Sai for short hops around Ko Phi-Phi Don and Ko Phi-Phi Leh.

Long-tails leave from the Ao Ton Sai pier to Hat Yao (100B to 150B), Laem Thong (800B), Hat Rantee (500B) and Viking Cave (500B). Chartering speedboats for six hours costs around 6500B, while chartering a long-tail boat costs 1200B for three hours or 2500B for the whole day.