Eating

Nowhere else is the Thai reverence for food more evident than in Bangkok. The city’s characteristic scent is a unique blend of noodle stall and car exhaust, and in certain parts of town, restaurants appear to form the majority of businesses, typically flanked by street-side hawker stalls and mobile snack vendors.

To outsiders, the life of an average Bangkokian can appear to be little more than a string of meals and snacks punctuated by the odd job, not the other way around. If you can adjust your stomach clock to fit this schedule, we’re confident your stay in Bangkok will be a delicious one indeed.

Despite the global infatuation with Thai food, many visitors go from one mediocre meal to another, mainly at guest-house kitchens and tourist-oriented restaurants catering more to a Western definition of ambience than food. We strongly urge you to break out of the ghetto mentality and explore the small eateries and street stalls of this great city. For tips on eating like a local, Click here.

The standard opening hours for restaurants here are approximately 10am to 11pm daily, but many midrange places close between approximately 2pm and 5pm.

Ko Ratanakosin & Banglamphu

The old areas of town near the river are full of simple Thai restaurants and, because of the traveller presence, Western and vegetarian food as well.

Krua Apsorn Thai $$

(Th Din So; mains 70-320B; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat; 2, 25, 44 & 511, klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah; ) This homey dining room has served members of the Thai royal family and, back in 2006, was recognised as Bangkok’s Best Restaurant by the Bangkok Post. Must-eat dishes include mussels fried with fresh herbs, the decadent crab fried in yellow chilli oil and the tortilla Española–like crab omelette.

Jay Fai Thai $$$

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(327 Th Mahachai; mains from 250B; 3pm-2am; klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) You wouldn’t think so by looking at the bare-bones dining room, but Jay Fai is known far and wide for serving Bangkok’s most expensive – and arguably most delicious – pàt kêe mow (drunkard’s noodles).

Poj Spa Kar Thai $$

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(443 Th Tanao; mains 100-200B; lunch & dinner; 2, 25, 44 & 511, klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah; ) Pronounced pôht sà·pah kahn, this is allegedly the oldest restaurant in Bangkok, and continues to serve recipes handed down from a former palace cook.

Hemlock Thai $$

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(56 Th Phra Athit; mains 60-220B; 4pm-midnight; 32, 33, 64 & 82, Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu); ) This cosy gem has an eclectic range with many items – including lots of veggie options – that don’t usually pop up on menus.

Shoshana Israeli $$

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(88 Th Chakraphong; mains 90-220B; lunch & dinner; 32 & 516, Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu); ) This is one of Th Khao San’s best and oldest Israeli restaurants, tucked away in an unnamed, almost secret alley beside the former petrol station.

Khinlom Chom Sa-Phan Thai $$

(11/6 Soi 3, Th Samsen; mains 75-280B; 11am-2am; 32 & 516, Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu); ) Locals come here for the combination of riverfront views and tasty seafood-based eats. Call ahead to book a riverfront table.

Chinatown & Phahurat

When you mention Chinatown, Bangkokians begin dreaming of noodles, usually prepared by street vendors lining Th Yaowarat, near Trok Itsaranuphap (Soi 6, Th Yaowarat), after dark. The dining is good in the Indian district of Phahurat too.

Old Siam Plaza Thai $

(ground fl, Old Siam Plaza, cnr Th Phahurat & Th Triphet; mains 15-50B; 9am-6.30pm; Tha Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge)) This mall-bound food court turns seemingly savoury ingredients such as beans and rice into syrupy sweet desserts, right before your eyes.

Th Phadungdao Seafood Stalls Thai $$

(cnr Th Phadungdao & Th Yaowarat; mains 180-300B; dinner Tue-Sun; Tha Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge), Hua Lamphong) After sunset, this frenetic intersection sprouts outdoor barbecues, iced seafood trays and sidewalk seating.

Royal India Indian $$

(392/1 Th Chakraphet; mains 65-250B; lunch & dinner; Tha Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge) Don’t be intimidated by its dark alleyway location. After more than 30 years in business, Royal India remains a reliable destination for North Indian cuisine.

Siam Square

If you find yourself hungry in this part of Bangkok, you’re largely at the mercy of shopping-mall food courts and chain restaurants.

MBK Food Court Thai $

(6th fl, MBK Center, cnr Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai; 10am-9pm; National Stadium; ) A great introduction to Thai food for recent arrivals, this mall food court has fresh and flavourful street-stall eats that are translated into English and in air-con comfort. Buy coupons from the ticket desk and then cash in whatever you don’t spend.

Kai Thort Jay Kee Thai $

(Soi Polo Fried Chicken; 137/1-3 Soi Sanam Khlii (Polo), Th Witthayu/Wireless Rd; mains 40-300B; 7am-10pm; Lumphini; ) Although the sôm·đam (spicy green papaya salad), sticky rice and lâhp (a Thai-style ‘salad’ of minced meat) give the impression of a northeastern Thailand–style eatery, the restaurant’s namesake deep-fried bird is more southern in origin. Regardless, smothered in a thick layer of crispy deep-fried garlic, it’s a true Bangkok experience.

Crystal Jade La Mian Xiao Long Bao Chinese $$

(Urban Kitchen, basement, Erawan Bangkok, 494 Th Ploenchit; dishes 120-400B; lunch & dinner; Chit Lom; ) The tongue-twistingly long name of this excellent Singaporean chain refers to the restaurant’s signature wheat noodles (la mian) and the famous Shanghainese ‘soup’ dumplings (xiao long bao).

Food Plus Thai $

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(alleyway btwn Soi 3 & Soi 4, Siam Sq; mains 30-70B; 6am-6pm) This claustrophobic alleyway is bursting with the wares of several ráhn kôw gaang (rice and curry stalls). You’ll be hard-pressed to spend more than 100B and the flavours are unanimously authentic and delicious.

Som Tam Nua Northeastern Thai $$

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(392/14 Soi 5, Siam Sq; mains 59-130B; 10.45am-9.30pm; Siam; ) It can’t compete with the street stalls for flavour, but if you need to be seen, particularly while in air-con and trendy surroundings, this is a good place to sample northeastern Thai specialities. Expect a lengthy line at dinner.

Coca Suki Chinese-Thai $$

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(416/3-8 Th Henri Dunant; mains 60-200B; 11am-11pm; Siam; ) Immensely popular with Thai families, sù·gêe takes the form of a bubbling hotpot of broth and the raw ingredients to dip therein.

Silom, Sathon & Riverside

Office workers swarm into the shanty villages of street vendors for lunch, and simple Muslim and Indian restaurants proliferate towards the western end of Th Silom and Th Surawong. But this area is known for its elegant restaurants preparing international fusion and royal Thai cuisine.

onahm Thai $$$

( 0 2625 3333; Metropolitan Hotel, 27 Th Sathon Tai; set meal 1700B; dinner; Lumphini; ) Australian chef and author David Thompson is behind what is quite possibly the best Thai restaurant in Bangkok. Using ancient cookbooks as his inspiration, Thompson has given new life to previously extinct dishes such as smoked fish curry with prawns, chicken livers, cockles and black pepper. Expect full flavours and artful presentation. Reservations recommended.

Scoozi Italian $$

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(www.scoozipizza.com; 174 Th Surawong; pizzas 100-425B; lunch & dinner; Si Lom, Sala Daeng; ) Scoozi now boasts several locations across Bangkok, but we still think the wood-fired pizzas taste best at this, the original branch.

Nadimos Middle Eastern $$

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(www.nadimos.com; Baan Silom, cnr Th Silom & Soi 19; mains 70-400B; lunch & dinner; 15 & 504, Surasak; ) This semi-formal dining room does tasty versions of all the Lebanese standards, plus quite a few dishes you’d never expect to see this far from Beirut. There are also lots of vegetarian options.

Foo Die Thai $$

(Soi Phiphat 2; mains 80-150B; lunch & dinner; Chong Nonsi; ) This airy, cafeteria-like restaurant boasts a menu of hard-to-find central- and southern-style Thai dishes. Highlights include the yam som o, a spicy/sour/sweet salad of pomelo, and the spicy prik khing pla dook foo, catfish fried in a curry paste until crispy.

Chennai Kitchen Indian $

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(10 Th Pan; mains 50-150B; 10am-3pm & 6-9.30pm; Surasak; ) This thimble-sized restaurant puts out some of the most solid southern Indian vegetarian food in town.

Somtam Convent Thai $

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(Hai; Click here ; 2/4-5 Th Convent; mains 20-120B; 10.30am-9pm; Si Lom, Sala Daeng) A less intimidating introduction to the wonders of lâhp (a minced meat ‘salad’), sôm-đam (papaya salad) and other northeastern delights can be had at this popular restaurant.

Soi 10 Food Centres Thai $

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(Soi 10, Th Silom; mains 20-60B; lunch Mon-Fri; Sala Daeng, Si Lom) These two adjacent hangar-like buildings tucked behind Soi 10 are the main lunchtime refuelling stations for this area’s office staff.

Sukhumvit

This avenue is the communal dining room of Bangkok’s expat communities.

Bo.lan Thai $$$

( 0 2260 2962; www.bolan.co.th; 42 Soi Rongnarong Phichai Songkhram, Soi 26, Th Sukhumvit; set meal 1500B; dinner Tue-Sun; Phrom Phong) This Australian–Thai couple’s scholarly approach to Thai cooking takes the form of seasonal set meals featuring dishes you’re not likely to find elsewhere. Reservations recommended.

Nasir Al-Masri Middle Eastern $$$

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(4/6 Soi 3/1, Th Sukhumvit; mains 80-350B; 24hr; Nana; ) The glimmering stainless-steel exterior beckons to passers-by at this Soi Arabia fave. Middle Eastern meals can be consumed in air-con or streetside for the ambience of a genuine sheeshah (waterpipe) cafe.

Myeong Ga Korean $$$

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( 0 2229 4658; cnr Soi 12 & Th Sukhumvit; mains 200-550B; dinner; Sukhumvit, Asok; ) Located on the ground floor of Sukhumvit Plaza, the multistorey complex known as Korean Town, this restaurant is the city’s best destination for authentic Seoul food.

Soul Food Mahanakorn Thai $$

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( 0 2714 7708; www.soulfoodmahanakorn.com; 56/10 Soi 55/Thong Lor, Th Sukhumvit; mains 120-250B; dinner; Thong Lo; ) This cozy bar/restaurant does tasty but pricey takes on rustic Thai dishes such as gai tawt hat yai, southern-style fried chicken, and gaeng hang lay, a northern-style pork curry, not to mention deliciously boozy cocktails. Reservations recommended.

Bharani Thai $

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(Sansab Boat Noodle; Click here ; 96/14 Soi 23, Th Sukhumvit; mains 50-200B; 10am-10pm; Sukhumvit, Asok; ) Bharani dabbles in a bit of everything, from ox-tongue stew to rice fried with shrimp paste. But the real reason to come is for the rich, meaty ‘boat noodles’ – so called because they used to be sold from boats plying the klorngs of Ayuthaya.

Bed Supperclub International $$$

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( 0 2651 3537; www.bedsupperclub.com; 26 Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; mains 450-990B, set meals 790-1850B; 7.30-10pm Tue-Thu, dinner 9pm Fri & Sat; Nana; ) Crawl into Bed, a long-standing cutting-edge leader that dabbles in ‘modern eclectic cuisine’. Arrive at 9pm sharp for a surprise menu on Fridays and Saturdays.

Boon Tong Kiat Singapore Hainanese Chicken Rice Singaporean $

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(440/5 Soi 55/Thong Lor, Th Sukhumvit; dishes 60-150B; lunch & dinner; Thong Lo & access by taxi; ) Order a plate of the restaurant’s namesake and bear witness to how a dish can be simultaneously simple and profound.

Soi 38 Night Market Chinese-Thai $

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(Soi 38, Th Sukhumvit; mains 30-60B; 7pm-3am; Thong Lo) After a hard night of clubbing, this gathering of basic Thai-Chinese hawker stalls will look like a shimmering oasis.

Other Areas

Mallika Thai $$

(21/36 Th Rang Nam; mains 70-480B; 10am-10pm Mon-Sat; Victory Monument; ) A dream come true: authentic regional Thai (southern, in this case), with a legible English menu, good service and tidy setting. The prices are slightly high for a mum-and-pop Thai joint, but you’re paying for quality.

Kaloang Home Kitchen Thai $$

(503-505 Th Samsen; mains 60-170B; 11am-11pm; 32 & 516, Tha Thewet) The laid-back atmosphere and seafood-heavy menu here will quickly dispel any concerns about sinking into Chao Phraya River, and a beer and the breeze will temporarily erase any scarring memories of Bangkok traffic. To find the restaurant, follow Th Si Ayuthaya until you reach the river.

Pathé Thai $$

(cnr Th Lad Phrao & Th Viphawadee; mains 75-160B; 2pm-1am; Phahon Yothin; ) The Thai equivalent of a 1950s-era US diner, this popular place combines solid Thai food, a fun atmosphere and a jukebox playing scratched records.

Drinking

Once infamous as an anything-goes nightlife destination, in recent years Bangkok has been edging towards teetotalism with strict regulations limiting the sale of alcohol and increasingly conservative closing times, with most bars closing around 1am (for places that stay open later, Click here). Likewise, note that smoking has been outlawed at all indoor (and some quasi-outdoor) entertainment places since 2008.

Ko Ratanakosin & Banglamphu

The area around Th Khao San is one of the city’s best destinations for a fun night out.

Hippie de Bar Bar

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(46 Th Khao San; 6pm-2am; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu)) Popular with locals, Hippie boasts a funky retro vibe, indoor and outdoor seating, and a soundtrack you’re unlikely to hear elsewhere in town.

Amorosa Bar

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(www.arunresidence.com; rooftop, Arun Residence, 36-38 Soi Pratu Nok Yung; 6-11pm; 123 & 508, Tha Tien) It may be the only bar in the area, but that doesn’t mean it’s any sort of compromise; Amorosa’s rooftop location packs killer views of Wat Arun, making it one of the best spots in Bangkok for a riverside sundowner.

Pranakorn Bar Bar

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(58/2 Soi Damnoen Klang Tai; 6pm-midnight; klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) It must have taken a true visionary to transform this characterless multilevel building into a warm, fun destination for a night out. Head to the rooftop for breezy views over Banglamphu.

Rolling Bar Bar

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(Th Prachathipatai; 6pm-midnight; klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) An escape from hectic Th Khao San is a good enough excuse to head to this quiet canal-side boozer. Live music and passable bar snacks are reasons to stay.

Siam Square

Co-Co Walk Bar

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(87/70 Th Phayathai; 6pm-1am; Ratchathewi) This covered compound is a lively smorgasbord of pubs, bars and live music popular with Thai university students.

Hyde & Seek Bar

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(ground fl, Athenee Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruam Rudi; 11am-1am; Phloen Chit; ) In addition to having Bangkok’s most well-stocked bar and some of the city’s best cocktails, Hyde & Seek also does tasty and comforting English-inspired bar snacks and meals.

Sukhumvit

WTF Bar

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(www.wtfbangkok.com; 7 Soi 51, Th Sukhumvit; 6pm-1am Tue-Sun; Thong Lo; ) No, not that WTF. Wonderful Thai Friendship is a funky and friendly neighbourhood bar that also has two floors of gallery space. Stop by for great drinks and a bar-snack menu with influences ranging from Macau to Spain, or to check out the latest contemporary-art exhibition.

Cheap Charlie’s Bar

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(Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; Mon-Sat; Nana) The design concept of this open-air beer corner is best classified as ‘junkyard’. The lack of seating compels mingling, making it a great place to meet tourists and long-time residents alike.

Iron Fairies Bar

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(www.theironfairies.com; Soi 55/Thong Lor, Th Sukhumvit; 5pm-midnight Mon-Sat; Thong Lo; ) Imagine, if you can, an abandoned fairy factory in Paris c 1912, and you’ll get an idea of the design theme at this popular pub/wine bar. Try to wrangle one of a handful of seats. They claim to serve Bangkok’s best burgers here and there’s live music after 9.30pm.

Bangkok Bar Bar

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(Soi Ekamai 2, Soi 63 (Ekamai), Th Sukhumvit; 8pm-1am; Ekkamai; ) Bounce with Thai indie kids at this fun bar. There’s live music, and the eats are strong enough to make Bangkok Bar a dinner destination.

Tuba Bar

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(34 Room 11-12 A, Soi Ekamai 21, Soi 63 (Ekamai), Th Sukhumvit; Ekkamai & access by taxi; ) Part storage room for over-the-top vintage furniture, part friendly local boozer, this bizarre bar certainly doesn’t lack character. Indulge in a whole bottle for once and don’t miss the delicious chicken wings.

Other Areas

River Bar Café Bar

(405/1 Soi Chao Phraya, Th Rachawithi, Thonburi; 5pm-midnight; Tha Saphan Krung Thon; ) Sporting a picture-perfect riverside location, good food and live music, River Bar Café combines all the essentials of a perfect Bangkok night out. Grab a table close to the river to take full advantage of the breeze, as well as to avoid noise fallout from the sometimes overly enthusiastic bands.

Sky Train Jazz Club Bar

(cnr Soi Rang Nam & Th Pahohyothin; 6pm-1am; Victory Monument) A visit to this comically misnamed bar is more like chilling on the rooftop of a stoner friend’s apartment than any jazz club we’ve ever been to. But there are indeed views of the BTS, jazz on occasion and a likeable speakeasy atmosphere. To find it, look for the sign and proceed up the scary graffiti-strewn stairway until you reach the roof.

Entertainment

Nightclubs

The trick in Bangkok is to catch the right club on the right night. To find out what is going on, check Dudesweet (www.dudesweet.org) or Club Soma (wwww.clubsoma.tumblr.com), organisers of hugely popular monthly parties, or Paradise Bangkok (www.zudrangmarecords.com) for retro-themed world music events. Other sources of information include the listings mag BK (http://bk.asia-city.com/nightlife) or, if you’re partial to the Th Sukhumvit scene, www.thonglor-ekamai.com.

Cover charges for clubs and discos range from 100B to 800B and usually include a drink. Most locals don’t show up before 11pm, and everyone needs to show ID. The majority of clubs close at 2am.

RCA Nightclub

(Royal City Ave; off Th Phra Ram IX; Phra Ram 9 & access by taxi) Formerly a bastion of the teen scene, this Vegas-like strip has finally graduated from high school and hosts party people of every age. Worthwhile destinations include 808 Club (www.808bangkok.com; admission from 300B), Flix/Slim (admission free), Route 66 (www.route66club.com; admission free) and Cosmic Café (admission free).

Tapas Room Nightclub

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(www.tapasroom.net; 114/17-18 Soi 4, Th Silom; admission 100B; Si Lom, Sala Daeng) You won’t find food here, instead the name is an accurate indicator of the Spanish/Moroccan-inspired vibe of this multilevel den.

Ekamai Soi 5 NightClub

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(cnr Soi Ekamai 5 & Soi 63/Ekamai, Th Sukhumvit; Ekkamai & access by taxi) This open-air entertainment zone is the destination of choice for Bangkok’s young and beautiful – for the moment at least. Demo (admission free) combines blasting beats and a NYC-warehouse vibe, while Funky Villa (admission free), with its outdoor seating and Top 40 soundtrack, is more chilled.

Bed Supperclub NightClub

(www.bedsupperclub.com; 26 Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; admission from 600B; Nana) This illuminated tube has been a highlight of the Bangkok club scene for a nearly a decade now. Arrive early to squeeze in dinner (Click here) or, if you’ve only got dancing on your mind, come on Tuesday for the popular hip-hop nights.

Club Culture Nightclub

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(www.club-culture-bkk.com; admission from 200B; Th Ratchadamnoen Klang; klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) Housed in a seemingly abandoned four-storey building, Club Culture is the quirkiest member of Bangkok’s club scene. Opening dates and times can depend on events, so check the website to see what’s on.

The Club NightClub

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(www.theclubkhaosan.com; admission free; 123 Th Khao San; klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) Located smack-dab in the middle of Th Khao San, this cavern-like dance hall hosts a fun mix of locals and backpackers.

Q Bar Nightclub

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(www.qbarbangkok.com; 34 Soi 11, Th Sukhumvit; admission from 700B; Nana) This darkened industrial space sees a revolving cast of somebodies, nobodies and working girls. Various theme nights fill the weekly calendar.

Café Democ Nightclub

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(www.cafe-democ.com; 78 Th Ratchadamnoen Klang; admission free; klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) Up-and-coming DJs present their turntable dexterity at this narrow unpretentious club in old Bangkok.

Narz Nightclub

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(112 Soi 23, Th Sukhumvit; admission 500B; Sukhumvit, Asok) The former Narcissus has undergone a recent nip and tuck and now consists of three separate zones boasting an equal variety of music.

Live Music

For the most part, live music in Bangkok means perky Thai pop covers or tired international standards (if you’ve left town without having heard a live version of ‘Hotel California’, you haven’t really been to Bangkok), but an increasing number of places are starting to deviate from the norm with quirky and/or inspired bands and performances.

Brick Bar Bar

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(basement, Buddy Lodge, 265 Th Khao San; 8pm-1am; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu); ) This basement pub hosts a nightly revolving cast of live music for an almost exclusively Thai crowd – most of whom will end the night dancing on the tables.

Living Room Lounge

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( 0 2649 8888; Level I, Sheraton Grande Sukhumvit, 250 Th Sukhumvit; 6.30pm-midnight; Sukhumvit, Asok; ) Don’t let looks deceive you; every night this bland hotel lounge transforms into the city’s best venue for live jazz. Contact ahead of time to see which sax master or hide hitter is currently in town.

Saxophone Pub & Restaurant Live Music

(www.saxophonepub.com; 3/8 Th Phayathai; 6pm-2am; Victory Monument; ) Saxophone is a staple of Bangkok’s live-music scene. It’s a bit too loud for a first date, but the quality and variety of the music makes it a great destination for music-loving buddies on a night out.

Ad Here the 13th Bar

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(13 Th Samsen; 6pm-midnight; Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu); ) Ad Here has everything a neighbourhood joint should have: lots of regulars, cold beer and heart-warming tunes delivered by a masterful house band. The music starts at around 10pm, but you’re well advised to arrive earlier if you plan to snag one of the elusive seats.

Tawandang German Brewery Bar

(cnr Th Phra Ram III & Th Narathiwat Ratchanakharin; Chong Nonsi & access by taxi; ) It’s Oktoberfest all year round at this hangar-sized music hall. The Thai-German food is tasty, the house-made brews are entirely potable and the nightly stage shows are heaps of fun. Music starts at 8.30pm.

Titanium Live Music

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(2/30 Soi 22, Th Sukhumvit; 8pm-1am; Phrom Phong; ) Some come to this cheesy ‘ice bar’ for the chill and the flavoured vodka, but we come for Unicorn, an all-female rock band.

Raintree Live Music

(116/63-64 Soi Th Rang Nam; 6pm-1am; Victory Monument; ) This atmospheric pub is one of the few remaining places in town to hear ‘songs for life’, Thai folk music with roots in the communist insurgency of the 1960s and ’70s.

Rock Pub Live Music

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(www.therockpub-bangkok.com; 93/26-28 Th Phayathai; 9.30pm-2am; Ratchathewi; ) If you thought the days of heavy metal were long gone, step back in time at this cave-like pub where Iron Maiden posters pass for interior design and black jeans are the unofficial dress code.

Thai Boxing

Lumphini Stadium (Sanam Muay Lumphini; Click here; 0 2251 4303; Th Phra Ram IV; Lumphini) and Ratchadamnoen Stadium Offline map Google map (Sanam Muay Ratchadamnoen; Click here; 0 2281 4205; Th Ratchadamnoen Nok; 70, 503 & 509, klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah) host Thailand’s biggest moo·ay tai (also spelled muay thai) matches. Ratchadamnoen hosts matches on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday at 6.30pm. Lumphini hosts matches on Tuesday and Friday at 6.30pm and Saturday at 5pm and 8.30pm. Foreigners pay 1000/1500/2000B for 3rd-class/2nd-class/ringside seats (advance reservations needed for ringside). Don’t buy tickets from the hawkers hanging around outside the stadium.

Traditional Arts Performances

As Thailand’s cultural repository, Bangkok offers visitors an array of dance and theatre performances. For background information about these ancient traditions, Click here.

Chalermkrung Royal Theatre Theatre

(Sala Chalerm Krung; 0 2222 0434; www. salachalermkrung.com; cnr Th Charoen Krung & Th Triphet; tickets 800-1200B; 7.30pm; Tha Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge)) In a Thai Art Deco building at the edge of the Chinatown-Phahurat district, this theatre provides a striking venue for kŏhn (masked dance-drama based on stories from the Ramakian, the Thai version of the Ramayana), held every Thursday and Friday. The theatre requests that patrons dress respectfully, which means no shorts, tank tops or sandals.

Aksra Theatre Theatre

( 0 2677 8888, ext 5730; www.aksratheatre.com; 3rd fl, King Power Complex, 8/1 Th Rang Nam; tickets 400-600B; shows 7.30-8.30pm Mon-Wed, dinner shows 6.30-9pm Thu-Sun; Victory Monument) Performances of the Ramakian are the highlight, using knee-high puppets that require three puppeteers to strike humanlike poses. Come early in the week for a performance in the Aksra Theatre, or later for a Thai buffet dinner coupled with a show.

National Theatre Theatre

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( 0 2224 1352; 2 Th Rachini; tickets 60-100B; Tha Chang) After a lengthy renovation, the National Theatre is again open for business. Performances of kŏhn, masked dance-drama often depicting scenes from the Ramakian, are held on the first and second Sundays of the month; lákhon, Thai dance-dramas, are held on the first Friday of the month; and Thai musical performances are held on the third Friday of the month.

Shopping

Welcome to a true buyer’s market. Home to one of the world’s largest outdoor markets, numerous giant upscale malls and sidewalk-clogging bazaars on nearly every street, it’s impossible not to be impressed by the amount of commerce in Bangkok. However, despite the apparent scope and variety, Bangkok really only excels in one area when it comes to shopping: cheap stuff. The city is not the place to buy a new Nikon SLR or a (real) Fendi handbag – save those for online warehouses in the US or bargain-basement sales in Hong Kong. Ceramics, dirt-cheap T-shirts, fabric, Asian knick-knackery and yes, if you can deal with the guilt, pirated movies and music – these are the things to stock up on in Bangkok.

The difficulty is finding your way around, since the city’s intense urban tangle sometimes makes orientation difficult. A good shopping companion is Nancy Chandler’s Map of Bangkok, with annotations on all sorts of small and out-of-the-way shopping venues and đà·làht (markets).

Bookstores

For a decent selection of English-language books and magazines, branches of Bookazine (www.bookazine.co.th) and B2S (www.b2s.co.th) can be found at nearly every mall in central Bangkok. The Banglamphu area is home to many of Bangkok’s independent bookstores, and Th Khao San is virtually the only place in town to go for used English-language books. You’re not going to find any deals there, but the selection is decent.

Asia Books Bookstore

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(www.asiabook.com; Soi 15, 221 Th Sukhumvit; 8am-9pm; Sukhumvit, Asok) There are also branches in the Emporium shopping centre (see Click here) and Siam Discovery Center (Click here).

Kinokuniya Bookstore

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(www.kinokuniya.com; 10am-10pm) Siam Paragon (3rd fl, Th Phra Ram I; Siam); Emporium (3rd fl, Th Sukhumvit; Phrom Phong) The country’s largest bookstore has two branches, both featuring multilanguage selections, magazines and children’s books.

Saraban Bookstore

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(106/1 Th Ram Butri; 9.30am-10.30pm; 2, 15, 44 & 511, Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu)) Stocking the largest selection of international newspapers and new Lonely Planet guides on Th Khao San.

Shaman Bookstore Bookstore

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Susie Walking Street (Susie Walking Street, off Th Khao San; 9am-11pm); Th Khao San (Th Khao San; 9am-11pm) With two locations on Th Khao San, Shaman has the area’s largest selection of used books. Titles here can conveniently be searched using a computer program.

Department Stores & Shopping Centres

Bangkok may be crowded and polluted, but its department stores are modern oases of order. They’re also downright frigid, and Sunday afternoons see a significant part of Bangkok’s population crowding into the city’s indoor malls to escape the heat. By no accident, the BTS stations also have shaded walkways delivering passengers directly into nearby stores without ever having to set foot on ground level. Most shopping centres are open from 10am or 11am to 9pm or 10pm.

MBK Center Mall

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(Mahboonkhrong; Click here ; www.mbk-center.co.th/en; cnr Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai; National Stadium & Siam) This colossal mall has become a tourist destination in its own right. This is the cheapest place to buy mobile phones and accessories (4th floor) and name-brand knock-offs (nearly every other floor). It’s also one of the better places to stock up on camera gear (ground floor and 5th floor), and the expansive food court (6th floor) is one of the best in town (Click here).

Siam Center & Siam Discovery Center Mall

(cnr Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai; National Stadium & Siam) These linked sister centres feel almost monastic in their hushed hallways compared to frenetic MBK, just across the street. Siam Discovery Center excels in home decor, with the whole 3rd floor devoted to Asian-minimalist styles and jewel-toned fabrics. The attached Siam Center, Thailand’s first shopping centre, built in 1976, has recently gone under the redesign knife for a younger, hipper look. Youth fashion is its new focus, and several local labels can be found on the 2nd floor.

Gaysorn Plaza Mall

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(cnr Th Ploenchit & Th Ratchadamri; Chit Lom) A haute couture catwalk, Gaysorn’s spiralling staircases and all-white halls preserve all of fashion’s beloved designers in museum-curatorship style. Local fashion leaders occupy the 2nd floor ‘Thai Fashion Chic’, while the top floor is a stroll through home decor, including a good selection of upscale local art and handicrafts.

Siam Square Mall

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(btwn Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai, Siam) This low-slung commercial universe is a network of some 12 soi lined with tiny, trendy boutiques, many of which are the first ventures of young designers.

Siam Paragon Mall

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(Th Phra Ram I; Siam) Astronomically luxe brands occupy most floors of Bangkok’s biggest and glitziest mall, while the majority of shoppers hang out in the reflecting pool atrium or basement-level food court.

Central World Plaza Mall

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(cnr Th Ratchadamri & Th Phra Ram I; Chit Lom). This huge mall suffered greatly during the political unrest of April 2010, but the vast majority of shops are again open.

Handicrafts & Decor

The street markets have tonnes of factory-made pieces that pop up all along the tourist route. The shopping centres sell products with a little better quality at proportionally higher prices, but the independent shops sell the best items all round.

Nandakwang Textiles

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(108/2-3 Soi 23, Th Sukhumvit; 9am-5pm Mon-Sat & 10am-5pm Sun; Sukhumvit, Asok) A Bangkok satellite of a Chiang Mai–based store, Nandakwang sells cheery hand-woven cloth items.

Jim Thompson Textiles

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(www.jimthompson.com; 9 Th Surawong; 9am-9pm; Si Lom, Sala Daeng) The surviving business of the international promoter of Thai silk, this, the largest Jim Thompson shop, sells colourful silk handkerchiefs, placemats, wraps and cushions.

Doi Tung Handicrafts

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(www.doitung.com; 4th fl, Siam Discovery Center, Th Rama I; 11am-8pm; Siam) Earth-coloured ceramics and bright cloths – all handmade by northern Thai artisans – rule at this classy shop.

Thai Home Industries Handicrafts

(35 Soi 40/Oriental, Th Charoen Krung; 9am-6.30pm Mon-Sat; Tha Oriental) A visit to this temple-like building, a former monks’ quarters, is like discovering an abandoned attic full of Asian booty.

Narai Phand Handicrafts

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(www.naraiphand.com; ground fl, President Tower, 973 Th Ploenchit; 10am-8pm; Phloen Chit) Souvenir-quality handicrafts are given fixed prices and comfortable air-conditioning at this government-run facility.

Markets

Don’t let the bargaining put you off; it’s good fun for seller and buyer.

Chatuchak Weekend Market Market

(Talat Nat Jatujak; Click here; 9am-6pm Sat & Sun; Chatuchak Park & Kamphaeng Phet, Mo Chit) The mother of all markets sprawls over a huge area with 15,000 stalls and an estimated 200,000 visitors a day. Everything is sold here, from snakes to handicrafts to aisles and aisles of clothes. Plan to spend a full day, as there’s plenty to see, do and buy (if you see something you like, buy it, as you probably won’t find your way back). But come early, ideally around 9am to 10am, to beat the crowds and the heat.

There is an information centre and a bank with ATMs and foreign-exchange booths at the Chatuchak Park offices, near the northern end of the market’s Soi 1, Soi 2 and Soi 3. Schematic maps and toilets are located throughout the market.

There are a few vendors out on weekday mornings, and a daily vegetable, plant and flower market opposite the market’s southern side. One section of the latter, known as the Or Tor Kor Market (Th Kamphaeng Phet; 8am-6pm; Kamphaeng Phet), is Bangkok’s most upscale fresh market, which sells fantastically gargantuan fruit and seafood, and has a decent food court as well.

Pak Khlong Market Market

(Flower Market; Th Chakkaphet & Th Atsadang; 24hr; Tha Saphan Phut (Memorial Bridge)) Every night this market near Chao Phraya River becomes the city’s largest depot for wholesale flowers.

Talat Rot Fai Market

(Th Kamphaeng Phet; 6pm-midnight Sat & Sun; Kamphaeng Phet) Set in a sprawling abandoned rail yard, this market is all about the retro, from antique enamel platters to secondhand Vespas.

Scuba-Diving Supplies

Most of Bangkok’s dive shops are located around Th Sukhumvit.

Dive Indeed Outdoor Gear

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( 0 2665 7471; www.diveindeed.com; 14/2 Soi 21, Th Sukhumvit; Sukhumvit, Asok)

Dive Master Outdoor Gear

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( 0 2259 3191; www.divemaster.net; 16 Asoke Court, Soi 21, Th Sukhumvit; Sukhumvit, Asok)

Dive Supply Outdoor Gear

( 0 2354 4815; www.divesupply.com; 457/4 Th Sri Ayuthaya; Phaya Thai)

Planet Scuba Outdoor Gear

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( 0 2261 4412/3; www.planetscuba.net; 666 Th Sukhumvit; Phrom Phong)

Information

ATMs, banks, and currency-exchange kiosks are widespread.

Emergency

Fire ( 199)

Police/Emergency ( 191)

Tourist police ( nationwide call centre 1155; 24hr) English-speaking officers.

Internet & Telephone Access

There’s no shortage of internet cafes in Bangkok competing to offer the cheapest and fastest connection. Rates vary depending on the concentration and affluence of net-heads – Banglamphu is cheaper than Sukhumvit or Silom, with rates as low as 20B per hour. Many internet shops are adding Skype and headsets to their machines so that international calls can be made for the price of surfing the web.

A convenient place to take care of your communication needs in the centre of Bangkok is the TrueMove Shop (www.truemove.com; Soi 2, Siam Sq; 7am-10pm; Siam). It has high-speed internet computers equipped with Skype, sells phones and mobile subscriptions, and can also provide information on city-wide wi-fi access for computers and phones.

Wi-fi, mostly free of charge, is becoming more and more ubiquitous around Bangkok and is available at more businesses and public hotspots than we have space to list here. For relatively authoritative lists of wi-fi hotspots in Bangkok, go to www.bkkpages.com (under ‘Bangkok Directory’) or www.stickmanweekly.com/WiFi/BangkokFreeWirelessInternetWiFi.htm.

Media

Bangkok 101 (www.bangkok101.com) A monthly city primer with photo essays and reviews of sights, restaurants and entertainment.

Bangkok Post (www.bangkokpost.net) The leading English-language daily with Friday and weekend supplements covering city events.

BK (http://bk.asia-city.com) Free weekly listings mag for the young and hip.

CNNGo (www.cnngo.com/bangkok) Check the Bangkok pages of this online listings mag for quirky news and reviews.

Medical Services

The following hospitals offer 24-hour emergency service and English-speaking staff. Prices are high, but so is the quality. Use these numbers to call an ambulance.

BNH ( 0 2686 2700; www.bnhhospital.com; 9 Th Convent; Si Lom, Sala Daeng)

Bumrungrad International Hospital ( 0 2667 1000; www.bamrungrad.com; 33 Soi 3/Nana Nua, Th Sukhumvit; Phloen Chit)

Money

Regular bank hours in Bangkok are generally 8.30am to 3.30pm, although branches in busy areas and shopping malls are open later. ATMs are common in all areas of the city. Many Thai banks also have currency-exchange bureaus and there are exchange desks within eyeshot of most tourist areas. Go to 7-Eleven shops or other reputable places to break 1000B bills; don’t expect a vendor or taxi to be able to make change on a bill 500B or larger.

Post

Main post office (Th Charoen Krung; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pm Sat & Sun; Tha Si Phraya)

Toilets

Public toilets in Bangkok are few and far between and your best bet is to head for a shopping centre, fast-food restaurant or our favourite, a luxury hotel. Shopping centres might charge 2B to 5B for a visit; some newer shopping centres have toilets for the disabled. Despite what you’ll hear, squat toilets are a dying breed in Bangkok.

Tourist Information

Bangkok Information Center ( 0 2225 7612-4; www.bangkoktourist.com; 17/1 Th Phra Athit; 8am-7pm Mon-Fri & 9am-5pm Sat & Sun; 32, 33, 64 & 82, Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu) City-specific tourism office provides maps, brochures and directions.

Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT; 1672; www.tourismthailand.org) Head Office ( 0 2250 5500; 1600 Th Petchaburi Tat Mai; 8.30am-4.30pm; Phetchaburi); Banglamphu ( 0 2283 1500; cnr Th Ratchadamnoen Nok & Th Chakrapatdipong; klorng taxi Tha Phan Fah; 8.30am-4.30pm); Suvarnabhumi International Airport ( 0 2134 0040; 2nd fl, btwn Gates 2 & 5; 24hr)

Travel Agencies

Bangkok travel agencies vary greatly in the amount of commission they charge; shop around to compare fares. These are long-running agencies:

Diethelm Travel ( 0 2660 7000; www.diethelmtravel.com; 14th fl, Kian Gwan Bldg II, 140/1 Th Witthayu/Wireless Rd; Phloen Chit)

STA Travel ( 0 2236 0262; www.statravel.co.th; 14th fl, Wall Street Tower, 33/70 Th Surawong; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat; Si Lom, Sala Daeng)

visit beyond ( 0 2630 9371; www.visitbeyond.com; New Road Guest House, 1216/1 Th Charoen Krung; Tha Oriental; 8am-noon & 3-7pm)

Getting There & Away

Air

Bangkok has two airports. Suvarnabhumi International Airport ( 0 2132 1888; www.bangkokairportonline.com), 30km east of Bangkok, began commercial international and domestic service in September 2006. The airport’s name is pronounced sù·wan·ná·poom, and it inherited the airport code (BKK) previously used by the old airport at Don Muang. The unofficial airport website has practical information in English, as well as real-time details of arrivals and departures.

At press time, Bangkok’s former international and domestic Don Muang Airport ( 0 2535 1111; www.donmuangairportonline.com), 25km north of central Bangkok, served domestic flights by Thai Airways, One-Two-Go and Nok Air.

Bus

Buses using government bus stations are far more reliable and less prone to incidents of theft than those departing from Th Khao San or other tourist centres.

Southern bus terminal (Sai Tai Mai; Click here; 0 2435 1199; Th Bromaratchachonanee, Thonburi) Located across Saphan Phra Pinklao in the far western suburbs, this terminal serves all points south – hello Phuket, Surat Thani, Krabi, Hat Yai – as well as Kanchanaburi and western Thailand. The easiest way to reach the station is by taxi, or you can take bus 79, 159, 201 or 516 from Th Ratchadamnoen Klang or bus 40 from the Victory Monument.

Eastern bus terminal (Ekamai; Click here; 0 2391 2504; Soi Ekamai/40, Th Sukhumvit; Ekkamai) For buses to cities on or near the eastern gulf coast including Pattaya, Rayong, Chanthaburi and Trat. Ekkamai BTS station is right by the terminal.

Northern & Northeastern bus terminal (Mo Chit; Click here; for northern routes 0 2936 2841, ext 311/442, for northeastern routes 0 2936 2852, ext 611/448; Th Kamphaeng Phet; Kamphaeng Phet & access by taxi, Mo Chit & access by taxi), commonly called Mor Chit station (sà·tăuh·nii mǎw chít), serves northern and northeastern Thailand.

Minivan

Privately run minivans, called rót đôo, are a fast and relatively comfortable way to get between Bangkok and its neighbouring provinces. The biggest minivan stop is just north of the Victory Monument, where you can board frequent minivans to the Southern bus terminal (35B, one hour, 6.30am to 9pm). Directly east of the monument are lines to Ko Samet via Ban Phe (200B, 2½ hours, from 6am to 9pm), Pattaya (97B, two hours, from 6am to 8pm) and Suvarnabhumi International Airport (40B, one hour, from 5am to 10.30pm).

Train

Bangkok’s main train station is Hualamphong ( nationwide call centre 1690, 0 2220 4334; www.railway.co.th; Th Phra Ram IV; Hua Lamphong). It’s advisable to ignore all touts here and avoid the travel agencies. To check timetables and prices for other destinations call the State Railway of Thailand ( nationwide call centre 1690; www.railway.co.th) or look at their website .

Getting Around

Because of parking hassles and traffic jams, and because taxis are cheap and ubiquitous, hiring a car to get around Bangkok is not recommended.

To/From the Airport

At the time of writing there were still two functioning airports in Bangkok; the vast majority of flights are relegated to shiny new Suvarnabhumi, but some domestic flights still fly in and out of the old Don Muang Airport. If you need to transfer between the two, pencil in at least an hour, as the two airports are at opposite ends of town. Minivans run between the two airports from 6am to 5pm (30B to 50B).

Suvarnabhumi International Airport

Airport Rail Link In 2010 the much-delayed elevated train service linking central Bangkok and Suvarnabhumi International Airport was finally completed. An express service runs, without stops, between Makkasan and Phaya Thai stations and the airport (15 to 17 minutes, 150B), from 6am to midnight. It’s worth keeping in mind that this may not be cheaper or faster than a taxi, depending on the size of your group and what time you arrive. Makkasan, also known as City Air Terminal, is a short walk from MRT Phetchaburi.

The Airport Rail Link is located on floor B1 of Suvarnabhumi International Airport.

Local Transport Several air-con local buses serve the airport’s public transport centre, a 3km ride on a free shuttle bus from Suvarnabhumi. Bus lines city-bound tourists are likely to use include 551 (Victory Monument), 554 (Don Muang) and 556 (Th Khao San), and minivan line 552 (On Nut BTS station) – fares start at 25B.

From town, you can take the BTS to On Nut, then from near the market entrance opposite Tesco take minivan 522 (25B, about 40 minutes, 6am to 9pm) to the airport. The minivans that park at the east side of the Victory Monument are another alternative (40B, one hour, 5am to 10.30pm)

Taxi As you exit the terminal, ignore the touts and all the signs pointing you to ‘official airport taxis’ (which cost 700B flat) and descend to the 1st floor to join the generally fast-moving queue for a public taxi. Cabs booked through these desks are legally obliged to use their meter, but they often try their luck so insist by saying, ‘Meter, please’. Toll charges (paid by the passengers) vary between 25B and 45B. Note also that there’s an additional 50B surcharge added to all fares departing from the airport, payable directly to the driver. The total cost of getting to most destinations in central Bangkok should be about 300B.

Don Muang Airport

Slow, crowded public bus 59 stops on the highway in front of the airport and carries on to Banglamphu, passing Th Khao San and the Democracy Monument.

As at Suvarnabhumi, public taxis leave from outside the arrivals hall and there is a 50B airport charge added to the meter fare.

The walkway that crosses from Terminal 1 to the Amari Airport Hotel also provides access to Don Muang train station, which has trains to Hualamphong train station every one to 1½ hours between 4am and 11.30am and then roughly every hour between 2pm and 9.30pm (5B to 10B, one hour).

Boat

Once the city’s dominant form of transport, public boats still survive along mighty Chao Phraya River and on a few interior klorng.

Canal Routes

Over the years, boat services along Bangkok and Thonburi’s klorng have diminished, but with mounting traffic woes there may be plans to revive these water networks. For now, canal taxi boats run along Khlong Saen Saeb (Banglamphu to Ramkhamhaeng) and are an easy way to get from Banglamphu to Jim Thompson’s House, the Siam Sq shopping centres (get off at Tha Hua Chang for both), and other points further east along Sukhumvit – after a mandatory change of boat at Tha Pratunam. These boats are mostly used by daily commuters and pull in to the piers for just a few seconds – jump straight on or you’ll be left behind, and try to avoid getting splashed by the foul water. Fares range from 9B to 21B and boats run from approximately 6am to 7pm.

River Routes

Chao Phraya Express ( 0 2623 6001; www.chaophrayaboat.co.th) provides one of the city’s most scenic (and efficient) transport options, running passenger boats along Chao Phraya River to destinations both south and north of Bangkok. The central pier is known varyingly as Tha Sathon and Saphan Taksin, and connects to the Saphan Taksin BTS station, at the southern end of the city. Visitors are most likely to go northwards, to the stops designated with an N prefix.

Tickets range from 13B to 32B and are generally purchased on board the boat, although some larger stations have ticket booths. Either way, hold on to your ticket as proof of purchase.

The company operates express (indicated by an orange, yellow or yellow and green flag), local (without a flag) and tourist boat (larger boat) services. During rush hour, pay close attention to the flag colours to avoid an unwanted journey to a distant province.

Local ( 6-8.30am & 3-6pm Mon-Fri; 9-13B) The local line (no flag) serves all company piers between Wat Ratchasingkhon, in south-central Bangkok, and northern Nonthaburi, stopping frequently.

Tourist ( 9.30am-3.30pm; 19B, one-day pass child/adult 80/150B) The more expensive tourist boat offers heaps of seating and English-language commentary (some of it actually comprehensible). It operates from Tha Sathon to 10 major sightseeing piers, only going as far north as Tha Phra Athit (Banglamphu).

Orange Express ( 5.50am-6.40pm Mon-Fri, 6am-6.40pm Sat & Sun; 14B) This, the most frequent line, operates between Wat Ratchasingkhon and Nonthaburi with frequent stops.

Yellow Express ( 6.10-8.40am & 3.45-7.30pm Mon-Fri; 19-28B) The yellow express line operates between Ratburana to Nonthaburi with stops at major piers.

Green-Yellow Express ( 6.15-8.05am & 4.05-6.05pm Mon-Fri; 11-31B) This rush-hour-only boat takes commuters directly to Pakkret Pier, far north of Bangkok.

Blue Express ( 7-7.45am & 5.05-6.25pm Mon-Fri; 11-32B) Another rush-hour-only boat takes commuters directly to Nonthaburi.

There are also flat-bottomed cross-river ferries that connect Thonburi and Bangkok. These piers are usually next door to the Chao Phraya Express piers and cost 3B per crossing.

BTS & MRT

The elevated BTS, also known as the Skytrain (rót fai fáh), whisks you through ‘new’ Bangkok (Silom, Sukhumvit and Siam Sq). The interchange between the two lines is at Siam station, and trains run frequently from 6am to midnight. Fares vary from 15B to 40B. Most ticket machines only accept coins, but change is available at the information booths.

Bangkok’s metro (MRT) is most helpful for people staying in the Sukhumvit or Silom areas to reach the train station at Hualamphong. Otherwise the system is mainly a suburban commuter line. Fares cost 15B to 40B. The trains run frequently from 6am to midnight.

Bus

Bangkok’s bus service is frequent and frantic, so a bus map (such as Bangkok Bus Guide by ThinkNet) is a necessity. Don’t expect it to be 100% correct, though; routes change regularly.

Fares for ordinary (non-air-con) buses start at 5B, while air-con bus fares begin at 11B.

The following bus lines are useful for tourists who are travelling between Banglamphu and Siam Sq:

Bus 15 From Tha Phra, on the Thonburi side of the river, to Sanam Luang (accessible to Wat Phra Kaew) with stops at MBK Center (connect to BTS) and Th Ratchadamnoen Klang (accessible to Th Khao San).

Bus 47 Khlong Toei Port to Department of Lands, along Th Phahonyothin, in northern Bangkok, with stops along Th Phra Ram IV, MBK Center, Th Ratchadamnoen and Sanam Luang.

Car

If you need private transport, consider hiring a car and driver through your hotel or hire a taxi driver that you find trustworthy. One reputable operator is Julie Taxi ( 08 1846 2014; www.julietaxitour.com), which offers a variety of vehicles and excellent service.

Motorcycle Taxi

Motorcycle taxis serve two purposes in Bangkok. Most commonly and popularly they form part of the public transport network, running from the corner of a main thoroughfare, such as Th Sukhumvit, to the far ends of sois that run off that thoroughfare. Riders wear coloured, numbered vests and gather at either end of their soi, usually charging 10B to 20B for the trip (without a helmet unless you ask).

Their other purpose is as a means of beating the traffic. You tell your rider where you want to go, negotiate a price (from 20B for a short trip up to about 150B going across town), strap on the helmet (they will insist for longer trips) and say a prayer to whichever god you’re into. Drivers range from responsible to kamikaze, but the average trip involves some time on the wrong side of the road and several near-death experiences. It’s the sort of white-knuckle ride you’d pay good money for at Disneyland, but is all in a day’s work for these riders. Comfort yourself with the knowledge that there are good hospitals nearby.

Taxi

Although many first-time visitors are hesitant to use them, in general, Bangkok’s taxis are new and spacious, and the drivers are courteous and helpful, making them an excellent way to get around. All taxis are required to use their meters, which start at 35B, and fares to most places within central Bangkok cost 60B to 90B.

Túk-Túk

Some travellers swear by túk-túk, but most have a hard time bargaining a fair price; know how much it should cost to your destination before soliciting a fare. A short trip on a túk-túk should cost at least 50B.

If a túk-túk driver offers to take you on a sightseeing tour, walk away – it’s a touting scheme designed to pressure you into purchasing overpriced goods.