GULF ISLANDS

Ko Samui

pop 40,230

At first glance, Ko Samui could be mistaken for a giant golf course floating in the Gulf of Thailand. The greens are perfectly manicured, sand traps are plentiful, and there’s a water hazard or two thrown in for good measure. Middle-aged men strut about donning white polo shirts that contrast with their cherry-red faces, while hired lackeys carry around their stuff. But Samui is far from being an adults-only country club – a closer look reveals steaming street-side food stalls, 2am jetsetter parties, secreted Buddhist temples, and backpacker shanties plunked down on a quiet stretch of sand.

Ko Samui is very much a choose-your-own-adventure kinda place that strives, like a genie, to grant every visitor their ultimate holiday wish. You want ocean views, daily massages and personal butlers? Poof – here are the keys to your private poolside villa. It’s a holistic aura-cleansing vacation you’re after? Shazam – take a seat on your yoga mat before your afternoon colonic. Wanna party like a rockstar? Pow – trance your way down the beach with the throngs of whisky-bucket-toting tourists.

Beyond the merry-making machine, the island also offers interested visitors a glimpse into local life. Chinese merchants from Hainan Island initially settled Samui and today these unique roots have blossomed into a small community that remains hidden beneath the glossy holiday veneer.

Sights

Ko Samui is quite large – the island’s ring road is almost 100km total.

Chaweng Beach

This is Ko Samui’s most popular spot – it’s the longest and most beautiful beach on the island. The sand is powder soft, and the water is surprisingly clear, considering the number of boats and bathers. Picture ops are best from the southern part of the beach, with stunning views of the hilly headland to the north.

Hin-Ta & Hin-Yai Landmark

At the south end of Lamai, the second- largest beach, you’ll find these infamous stone formations (also known as Grandfather and Grandmother Rocks). These rocks, shaped like genitalia provide endless mirth to giggling Thai tourists.

Hua Thanon Neighbourhood

Just beyond Lamai, Hua Thanon is home to a vibrant Muslim community, and its anchorage of high-bowed fishing vessels is a veritable gallery of intricate designs.

Bo Phut Neighbourhood

Although the northern beaches have coarser sand and aren’t as striking as the beaches in the east, they have a laid-back vibe and stellar views of Ko Pha-Ngan. Bo Phut stands out with its charming Fisherman’s Village; a collection of narrow Chinese shophouses that have been transformed into trendy resorts and boutique hotels.

Nam Tok Na Muang Waterfall

At 30m, this is the tallest waterfall on Samui and lies in the centre of the island about 12km from Na Thon. The water cascades over ethereal purple rocks, and there’s a great pool for swimming at the base. This is the most scenic – and somewhat less frequented – of Samui’s falls. There are two other waterfalls in the vicinity: a smaller waterfall called Na Muang 2, and, thanks to recently, improved road conditions, the high drop at Nam Tok Wang Saotong. These chutes are situated just north of the ring road near Hua Thanon.

Wat Hin Lat Temple

( 0 7742 3146) On the western part of Samui, near the waterfalls of the same name, is a meditation temple that teaches daily vipassana courses.

Nam Tok Hin Lat Waterfall

Near Na Thon, this is worth visiting if you have an afternoon to kill before taking a boat back to the mainland. After a mildly strenuous hike over streams and boulders, reward yourself with a dip in the pool at the bottom of the falls. Keep an eye out for the Buddhist temple that posts signs with spiritual words of moral guidance and enlightenment. Sturdy shoes are recommended.

Wat Laem Saw Temple

For temple enthusiasts, Wat Laem Saw, at the southern end of Samui near Ban Phang Ka, has an interesting, highly venerated old Srivijaya-style stupa.

Wat Phra Yai Temple

(Temple of the Big Buddha;) At Samui’s northern end, on a small rocky island linked by a causeway, is Wat Phra Yai. Erected in 1972, the modern Buddha (sitting in the Mara posture) stands 15m high and makes an alluring silhouette against the tropical sky and sea. Nearby, a new temple, Wat Plai Laem, features an enormous 18-armed Buddha.

Wat Khunaram Temple

Several temples have the mummified remains of pious monks, including Wak Khunaram, which is south of Rte 4169 between Th Ban Thurian and Th Ban Hua. Its monk, Luang Phaw Daeng, has been dead for over two decades but his corpse is preserved sitting in a meditative pose and sporting a pair of sunglasses.

Wat Samret Temple

At Wat Samret, near Th Ban Hua, you can see a typical Mandalay sitting Buddha carved from solid marble – a common sight in India and northern Thailand, but not so common in the south.

Activities

Diving

If you’re serious about diving, head to Ko Tao and base yourself there for the duration of your diving adventure. If you’re short on time and don’t want to leave Samui, there are plenty of operators who will take you to the same dive sites (at a greater fee, of course). Try to book with a company that has its own boat (or leases a boat) – it’s slightly more expensive, but you’ll be glad you did it. Companies without boats often shuttle divers on the passenger catamaran to Ko Tao, where you board a second boat to reach your dive site. These trips are arduous, meal-less and rather impersonal.

Certification courses tend to be twice as expensive on Ko Samui as they are on Ko Tao, this is largely due to use of extra petrol, since tiny Tao is significantly closer to the preferred diving locations. You’ll drop between 16,000B and 22,000B on an Open Water certification, and figure between 3200B and 6200B for a diving day trip depending on the location of the site.

Ko Samui’s hyperbaric chamber is at Big Buddha Beach (Hat Bang Rak).

100 Degrees East Diving

( 0 7742 5936; www.100degreeseast.com; Bang Rak) Highly recommended.

Diveversity Diving

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( 0 7741 3196; www.diveversity.nl; Hat Chaweng) Based at the Amari Hotel.

Samui Planet Scuba Diving

(SIDS; 0 7723 1606; samuiplanet scuba@planetscuba.net; Hat Chaweng)

Other Activities

Blue Stars Kayaking, snorkelling

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( 0 7741 3231; www.bluestars.info; trips 2600B) For those interested in snorkelling and kayaking, book a day trip to the stunning Ang Thong Marine Park. Blue Stars, based in Hat Chaweng on Ko Samui, offers guided sea-kayak trips in the park.

Football Golf Sport

( 08 9771 7498; 9am-6.30pm) At Choeng Mon there’s a strange combustion called ‘football golf’ where you ‘putt’ your football into a rubbish-bin-sized hole. It’s great for the kids and each game (300B) comes with a complimentary soft drink. It’s a par 66.

Namuang Safari Park Theme Park

( 0 7742 4098) Located near Na Muang Falls, Namuang has safari options and packages galore. Adventure tours (from 900B) vary in length and can include elephant trekking, monkey shows, 4WD rides and even a visit to a rubber plantation to drain the trees (now that’s excitement). Prices include hotel transfer.

Samui Aquarium & Tiger Zoo Theme Park

( 0 7742 4017; adult/child 750/450B; 9am-6pm) The Samui Aquarium & Tiger Zoo features the standard array aquariums and tigers, as well as a large aviary. It’s a pleasant diversion for the kids, though some of the cages and tanks are noticeably rundown. The tiger show is at 2.30pm and the sea lion spectacle starts at 1.30pm. The admission includes the use of the large on-site swimming pool.

Spas & Yoga

Competition for Samui’s five-star accommodation is fierce, which means that the spas are of the highest calibre. For top-notch pampering, try the spa at Anantara Bo Phut, or the Hideaway Spa at the Six Senses Samui. The Spa Resort in Lamai is the island’s original health destination, and is still known for its effective ‘clean me out’ fasting regime.

Yoga Thailand yoga & SPA

( 0 7792 0090; www.yoga-thailand.com; Phang Ka; retreats from €680; ) Secreted away along the southern shores, Yoga Thailand is ushering in a new era of therapeutic holidaying with its state-of-the-art facilities and dedicated team of trainers. Accommodation is located in a comfy apartment block up the street while yoga studios, wellness centres and a breezy cafe sit calmly along the shore.

Tamarind Retreat thai massage

( 0 7723 0571; www.tamarindretreat.com) Tucked far away from the beach within a silent coconut-palm plantation, Tamarind’s small collection of villas and massage studios is seamlessly incorporated into nature: some have granite boulders built into walls and floors, others offer private ponds or creative outdoor baths.

Health Oasis Resort yoga & SPA

( 0 7742 0124; www.healthoasisresort.com) If you’re lookin’ to get ‘cleansed’, whether it’s your aura or your colon, then you’ve happened upon the right place. New Age is all the rage at the Health Oasis. Guests can choose from a variety of healing packages involving everything from meditation to fasting. Bungalows are modern and receive plenty of sunshine. There’s also a vegetarian restaurant on site, of course.

Absolute Sanctuary yoga & SPA

( 0 7760 1190; www.absoluteyogasamui.com) What was once a friendly yoga studio has blossomed into a gargantuan wellness complex featuring plenty of accommodation and an exhaustive menu of detox and wellness programs.

Courses

Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts Cooking

(SITCA; Click here; 0 7741 3434; www.sitca.net; Hat Chaweng) If you’re contemplating a Thai cooking course, SITCA is the place to do it. It has daily Thai-cooking classes and courses in the aristocratic Thai art of carving fruits and vegetables into intricate floral designs. Lunchtime classes begin at 11am, while dinner starts at 4pm (both cost 1950B for a three-hour course with three or more dishes). Included is an excellent tutorial about procuring ingredients in your home country. Of course you get to eat your projects, and even invite a friend along for the meal. Complimentary DVDs with Thai cooking instruction are also available so you can practise at home.

Sleeping

‘Superior’, ‘standard’, ‘deluxe’, ‘standard deluxe’, ‘deluxe superior’, ‘superior standard’ – what does it all mean? Trying to decode Samui’s obnoxious hotel lingo is like trying to decipher the ancient Maya language. The island’s array of sleeping options is overwhelming – we’ve compiled a list of our favourites, but the following inventory is by no means exhaustive.

If you’re looking to splurge, there is definitely no shortage of top-end resorts sporting extravagant bungalows, charming spas, private infinity pools, and first-class dining. Bo Phut, on the island’s northern coast, has a charming collection of boutique lodging – the perfect choice for midrange travellers. Backpack-toting tourists will have to look a little harder, but budget digs do pop up once in a while along all of the island’s beaches.

Private villa services have become quite popular in recent years. Rental companies often advertise in the various tourist booklets that circulate on the island.

This large section is organised as follows: we start on the popular east coast with Chaweng and Lamai, then move anticlockwise around the island covering the smaller beaches.

Chaweng

Jungle Club Bungalows $$

( 08 1894 2327; www.jungleclubsamui.com; bungalows 800-4500B; ) The perilous drive up the slithering dirt road is totally worthwhile once you get a load of the incredible views from the top. This isolated mountain getaway is a huge hit among locals and tourists alike. There’s a relaxed back-to-nature vibe – guests chill around the stunning horizon pool or tuck themselves away for a catnap under the canopied roofs of an open-air săh·lah (hall; often spelled sala). Call ahead for a pick-up – you don’t want to spend your precious jungle vacation in a body cast. Taxis from the main road cost 50B; it’s 100B from central Chaweng.

Library Resort $$$

( 0 7742 2767; www.thelibrary.name; r from 13,300B; ) This place is too cool for school, which is ironic since it’s called ‘The Library’. The entire resort is a sparkling white mirage accented with black trimming and slatted curtains. Besides the futuristic iMac computer in each page (rooms are called ‘pages’ here), our favourite feature is the large monochromatic wall art – it glows brightly in the evening and you can adjust the colour depending on your mood. Life-size statues are engaged in the act of reading, and if you too feel inclined to pick up a book, the on-site library houses an impressive assortment of colourful art and design books. The large rectangular pool is not to be missed – it’s tiled in piercing shades of red, making the term ‘bloodbath’ suddenly seem appealing.

Tango Beach Resort Resort $$

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( 0 7742 2470; www.tangobeachsamui.com; r 1600-4600B; ) A midrange all-star, Tango features a string of bungalows arranged along a teak boardwalk that meanders away from the beach.

Centara Grand Resort $$$

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( 0 7723 0500; www.centralhotelsresorts.com; r 8900-19,500B; ) Centara is a massive, manicured compound in the heart of Chaweng, but the palm-filled property is so large that you can safely escape the streetside bustle. Rooms are found in a hotel-like building that is conspicuously Western in theme and decor. Grown-ups can escape to the spa, or one of the four restaurants, and leave the children at the labyrinth of swimming pools under the watchful eye of an in-house babysitter.

Baan Chaweng Beach Resort Resort $$$

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( 0 7742 2403; www.baanchawengbeachresort.com; bungalows 3500-7000B; ) A pleasant option for those who want top-end luxury without the hefty bill, Baan Chaweng is one of the new kids on the block and is keeping the prices relatively low. The immaculate rooms are painted in various shades of peach and pear, with teak furnishings that feel both modern and traditional.

Muang Kulay Pan Hotel Resort $$$

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( 0 7723 0849-51; www.kulaypan.com; r 4200-15,000B; ) No, that’s not a rip in the wallpaper – it’s all part of the design concept. The architect cites a fusion between Zen and Thai concepts, but we think the decor is completely random. The seaside grounds have been purposefully neglected to lend an additional sense of chaos to this unique resort.

Baan Haad Ngam Resort $$$

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( 0 7723 1500; www.baanhaadngam.com; bungalows 6400-14,000B; ) Vibrant Baan Haad Ngam shuns the usual teak and tan – every exterior is painted an interesting shade of green – like radioactive celery. It’s sassy, classy and a great choice if you’ve got the dime.

Pandora Boutique Hotel Resort $$

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( 0 7741 3801; www.pandora-samui.com; r 2700-4900B; ) As adorable as it is memorable, Pandora looks like it just fell out of a comic book – maybe Tintin and the Mystery of Surprisingly Cheap Accommodation in Chaweng ? Rooms are outfitted with cheerful pastels, wooden moulding, and the occasional stone feature.

Kirikayan Boutique Resort Resort $$$

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( 0 7733 2299; www.kirikayan.com; r from 5295B; ) Simple whites, lacquered teak and blazing red accents set the colour scheme at this hip address along Chaweng’s southern sands. Wander past thick palm trunks and sky-scraping foliage to find the relaxing pool deck at the back.

Ark Bar Resort $$

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( 0 7742 2047; www.ark-bar.com; bungalows 1500B; ) You’ll find two of every creature at Ark Bar – hardcore partiers, chilled out hippies, teenagers, forty-somethings, even Canadians. Lately, the perennially popular resort has started to shift gears – higher-end digs is now the name of the game.

Chaweng Garden Beach Resort $$

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( 0 7796 0394; www.chawenggarden.com; r from 1850-8500B; ) A popular ‘flashpacker’ choice, this campus of accommodation has a large variety of room types serviced by an extra-smiley staff.

Nora Chaweng Hotel $$

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( 0 7791 3666; www.norachawenghotel.com; r from 2100B; ) Nora Chaweng is not on the beach, but this newer addition to the Chaweng bustle has swankily designed rooms, an inviting on-site pool and a relaxing spa studio.

Loft Samui Hostel $

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( 0 7741 3420; www.theloftsmaui.com; r from 590B; ) A newer budget operation in Chaweng, the Loft is giving has-beens such as the Wave a run for their money with cheap digs furnished by a couple of quirky details – adobe styling and savvy built-ins. It seems to be quite popular with travelling Israelis.

Akwa Guest house $

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( 08 4660 0551; www.akwaguesthouse.com; r from 700B; ) A charming B&B-style sleeping spot, Akwa has a few funky rooms decorated with bright colours. Expect teddy bears adorning each bed, quirky bookshelves stocked with DVDs and cartoon paintings all over.

Queen Boutique Resort Hotel $

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( 0 7741 3148; queensamui@yahoo.com; r from 800-1200B; ) Despite the less-than-friendly staff, Queen offers up boutique sleeps for backpacker prices. Make sure, however, that you get a room with tiled floors; the ones with scuffed linoleum are far less appealing.

Baan Samui Resort $$

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( 0 7723 0965; www.see2sea.com; r from 8240B; ) In sharp contrast to the austere Library next door, Baan Samui is a campus of colourful beachside units. If the Flintstones had a holiday ranch house, it would probably look something like this.

Samui Hostel Hostel $

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( 08 9874 3737; dm 180B; ) It doesn’t look like much from the front, but the dorm rooms here are surprisingly spic and span. It’s a great place for solo travellers on a tight budget, although couples should know that a private double room can be scouted in Chaweng for around 400B.

P Chaweng Hotel $

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( 0 7723 0684; r 400-600B, ste 1000B; ) This vine-covered cheapie doesn’t even pretend to be close to the beach, but the pink-tiled rooms are spacious and squeaky clean (minus a couple of bumps and bruises on the wooden furniture). Pick a room facing away from the street – it seems a tad too easy for someone to slip through an open window and pilfer your stuff.

Lamai

Rocky Resort Resort $$$

( 0 7741 8367; www.rockyresort.com; Hua Thanon; r 4890-17,000B; ) Our favourite spot in Lamai (well, actually just south of Lamai), Rocky finds the right balance between an upmarket ambience and an unpretentious, sociable atmosphere. During the quieter months the prices are a steal, since ocean views abound, and each room has been furnished with beautiful Thai-inspired furniture that seamlessly incorporates a modern twist. The pool has been carved in between a collection of boulders mimicking the rocky beach nearby (hence the name).

Banyan Tree Koh Samui Resort $$$

( 0 7791 5333; www.banyantree.com/en/samui/overview; villas from 23,000B; ) Phuket’s most prestigious address has set up a sister property along the secluded northern sands of Lamai. Occupying an entire bay, this sprawling homage to over-the-top luxury sports dozens of villas hoisted above the foliage by spider-like stilts. Golf carts zip around the grounds carrying jetsetters between the myriad dining venues and the gargantuan spa (which sports a relaxing rainforest simulator, no less).

Samui Jasmine Resort Resort $$$

( 0 7723 2446; 131/8 Moo 3; r & bungalows 3800-5000B; ) Smack dab in the middle of Lamai beach, pleasant Samui Jasmine is a great deal. Go for the lower-priced rooms – most have excellent views of the ocean and the crystal-coloured lap pool. The design scheme features plenty of varnished teak and also frilly accessories such as lavender pillows.

Spa Resort Bungalows $$

( 0 7723 0855; www.spasamui.com; Lamai North; bungalows 800-2800B; ) This health spa has a bevy of therapeutic programs on offer, and no one seems to mind that the lodging is cheap by Lamai’s standards. Programs include colonics, massage, aqua detox, hypnotherapy and yoga, just to name a few. The bathrooms leave a bit to be desired, but who needs a toilet when you’re doing a weeklong fast? Accommodation tends to book up quickly, so it’s best to reserve in advance (via email). Nonguests are welcome to partake in the programs.

iBed Hostel $

( 0 7745 8760; www.ibedsamui.com; dm/s 550/ 1100B) The sleekest hostel on the island (if not all of Thailand), iBed has all the accoutrements of an Apple-sponsored space station: personal TVs at each bed, smooth coats of paint, bleach-white linens, and plenty of polished concrete. The wide verandahs, ample common space and mod kitchen foster a sociable vibe during the busier months.

Lamai Wanta Resort $$

( 0 7742 4550, 0 7742 4218; www.lamaiwanta.com; r & bungalows 1954-4800B; ) The pool area feels a bit retro, with its swatch book of beige- and blue-toned tiles, but in the back there are modern motel rooms and bungalows that have fresh coats of white paint. On the inside, rooms tread a fine line between being minimal and sparse. Lamai Wanta is located towards the south end of Lamai – be on the look out for the resort's small sign; it's located down a small beachside soi.

Amarina Residence Guest house $

(www.amarinaresidence.com; r 900-1200B) Although the lobby is unusually dark compared to most tropical foyers, the rooms upstairs are sun-drenched and sport tasteful light-wood furnishing.

Beer’s House Bungalows $

( 0 7723 0467; 161/4 Moo 4 Lamai North; bungalows 200-550B) These tiny shade-covered bungalows are lined up right along the sand. Some huts have a communal toilet, but all have plenty of room to sling a hammock and laze the day away.

New Hut Bungalows $

( 0 7723 0437; newhut@hotmail.com; Lamai North; huts 200-500B) New Hut is a rare beachfront cheapie with tiny-but-charming A-frame huts.

Northern Beaches

Ko Samui’s northern beaches have the largest range of accommodation. Choeng Mon has some of the most opulent resorts in the world, while Mae Nam and Bang Po cling to their backpacker roots despite the recent construction of several flash pads. Bo Phut, in the middle, is the shining star in Samui’s constellation of beaches.

CHOENG MON

Six Senses Samui Resort $$$

( 0 7724 5678; www.sixsenses.com/hideaway-samui /index.php; bungalows from 18,000B; ) This hidden bamboo paradise is worth the once-in-a-lifetime splurge. Set along a rugged promontory, Six Senses strikes the perfect balance between opulence and rustic charm, and defines the term ‘barefoot elegance’. Most of the villas have stunning concrete plunge pools and offer magnificent views of the silent bay below. The regal, semi-outdoor bathrooms give the phrase ‘royal flush’ a whole new meaning. Beige golf buggies move guests between their hidden cottages and the stunning amenities strewn around the property – including a world-class spa and two excellent restaurants.

Tongsai Bay Resort $$$

( 0 7724 5480-5500; www.tongsaibay.co.th; ste 11,000-30,000B; ) For serious pampering, head to this secluded luxury gem. Expansive and impeccably maintained, the hilly grounds make the cluster of bungalows look more like a small village. Golf carts whiz around the vast landscape transporting guests to various activities (such as massages) or dinner. All the extra-swanky split-level suites have day-bed rest areas, gorgeous romantic decor, stunning views, large terraces and creatively placed bathtubs (you’ll see). Facilities include salt- and freshwater pools, a tennis court, the requisite spa, a dessert shop and also several restaurants.

Sala Samui Resort $$$

( 0 7724 5888; www.salasamui.com; bungalows US$360-1100; ) Look out folks, these guys mean business – they quote their room rates in US dollars instead of baht. Is the hefty price tag worth it? Definitely. The design scheme is undeniably exquisite – regal whites and lacquered teaks are generously lavished throughout, while subtle turquoise accents draw on the colour of each villa’s private plunge pool.

Imperial Boat House Hotel Resort $$$

( 0 7742 5041-52; www.imperialhotels.com; Hat Choeng Mon; r 4000-5500B, boat ste 6000-6700B; ) This sophisticated retreat has a three-storey hotel and several free-standing bungalows made from imported-teak rice barges whose bows have been transformed into stunning patios. Oxidised copper cannons blast streams of water into the boat-shaped swimming pool.

Ô Soleil Bungalows $

( 0 7742 5232; r & bungalows from 400B; ) One of the cheaper beachfront properties on the island, old Ô Soleil offers a scatter of bungalows and semidetached rooms extending inland from the sand. It’s a very casual affair, so be sure to safely store your valuables.

BIG BUDDHA BEACH (BANG RAK)

This area gets its moniker from the huge golden Buddha that acts as overlord from the small nearby quasi-island of Ko Fan. Its proximity to the airport means lower prices at the resorts.

Samui Mermaid Resort $

( 0 7742 7547; www.samui-mermaid.info; r 400-2500B; ) Samui Mermaid is a great choice in the budget category because it feels like a full-fledged resort. There are two large swimming pools, copious beach chairs, two lively restaurants and every room has cable TV. The landing strip at Samui’s airport is only a couple of kilometres away, so sometimes there’s noise, but free airport transfers sweeten the deal.

Shambala Bungalows $

( 0 7742 5330; www.samui-shambala.com; bungalows 600-1000B; ) While surrounding establishments answer the call of upmarket travellers, this laid-back, English-run place is a backpacking stalwart with a subtle hippy feel. There’s plenty of communal cushion seating, a great wooden sun-deck, and the bungalows are bright and roomy. Staff doles out travel tips and smiles in equal measure.

Ocean 11 Guest house $$

( 0 7741 7118; www.o11s.com; bungalows 1900-3200B; ) A little slice of luxury at a very reasonable price, Ocean 11’s apartments are a steal (get it?!). Silly film references aside, this mellow spot with cottagey, Med-style decor is a great midrange getaway along a relatively quiet patch of sand.

BO PHUT

The beach isn’t breathtaking, but Bo Phut has the most dynamic lodging in all of Samui. A string of vibrant boutique cottages starts deep within the clutter of Fisherman’s Village and radiates outward along the sand.

Anantara Resort $$$

( 0 7742 8300; www.anantara.com; r 4000-18,000B; ) Anantara’s stunning palanquin entrance satisfies every fantasy of a far-flung oriental kingdom. Low-slung torches spurt plumes of unwavering fire, and the residual smoke creates a light fog around the fanned palm fronds higher up. Clay and copper statues of grimacing jungle creatures abound on the property’s wild acreage, while guests savour wild teas in an open-air pagoda, swim in the lagoon-like infinity-edged swimming pool, or indulge in a relaxing spa treatment. The new wing of adjacent white-washed villas brings the resort up to another level of opulence.

L’Hacienda Guest house $$

( 0 7724 5943; www.samui-hacienda.com; r 1400-3500B; ) Polished terracotta and rounded archways give the entrance a Spanish mission motif. Similar decor permeates the eight adorable rooms, which sport loads of personal touches such as pebbled bathroom walls and translucent bamboo lamps. There’s a charming surprise waiting for you on the roof, and we’re pretty sure you’ll love it as much as we did.

Zazen Resort $$$

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( 0 7742 5085; www.samuizazen.com; r 6010-17,200B; ) What was once a simple place has now transformed into the boutique-iest boutique resort on Samui – every inch of this charming getaway has been thoughtfully and creatively designed. It’s ‘Asian minimalism meets modern Rococo’ with a scarlet accent wall, terracotta goddesses, a dash of feng shui, and a generous smattering of good taste. Guests relax poolside on comfy beach chairs gently shaded by canvas parasols. The walk-in prices are scary, so it’s best to book in advance.

Lodge Hotel $$

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( 0 7742 5337; www.apartmentsamui.com; r 1400-2500B; ) Another great choice in Bo Phut, the Lodge feels like a colonial hunting chalet with pale walls and dark wooden beams jutting across the ceiling. Every room has scores of wall hangings and a private balcony overlooking the beach. The ‘pent-huts’ on the top floor are very spacious. Reservations are a must – this place always seems to be full.

Ibis Bo Phut Hotel $$

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( 0 7791 4800; www.ibishotel.com/thailand; r from 1600B; ) The biggest resort on the island, the brand new Ibis still has that new car smell in its shiny, efficient rooms. Families will love the children’s bunk beds and the grassy grounds perfect for a game of tag. If you’re looking for a resort with traces of Thai character, this is not the place for you.

B1 Villa Spa Apartments $$$

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( 0 7742 7268; www.b1villa.com; ste 2800-7000B; ) There’s a refreshing burst of character at this inn-style option along the beach in Fisherman’s Village. Each room displays a unique collection of wall art, and has been given a special moniker – the 2nd-storey spaces are named after the stars in Orion’s belt. Oh, and it’s B1 as in ‘B1 with yourself’, get it?

Khuntai Guest house $

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( 0 7724 5118; r 400-850B; ) This clunky orange guest house is as cheap as decent rooms get on Samui. A block away from the beach, on the outskirts of Fisherman’s Village, Khuntai’s 2nd-floor rooms are drenched in afternoon sunshine and feature outdoor lounging spots.

MAE NAM & BANG PO

W Retreat Koh Samui Resort $$$

( 0 7791 5999; www.starwoodhotels.com/whotels; r from 23,000B; ) A bejewelled ‘W’ welcomes guests as they drive up the curling road to the lobby, and upon arrival jaws immediate drop whilst staring out over the glittering infinity pools and endless horizon. The trademark ‘W glam’ is palpable throughout the resort, which does its darnedest to fuse an urban vibe with tropical serenity. It’ll be a while before this new resort finds its groove, so until then we recommend coming by for the Sunday brunch (2500B) or a sunset cocktail at Woo Bar.

Napasai By Orient Express Resort $$$

( 0 7742 9200; www.napasai.com; r from 9200B; ) Gorgeously manicured grounds welcome weary travellers as they glide past grazing water buffalo and groundsmen donning cream-coloured pith helmets. A generous smattering of villas dot the expansive landscape – all sport traditional Thai-style decorations, from the intricately carved wooden ornamentation to streamers of luscious local silks.

Maenam Resort Bungalows $$

( 0 7742 5116; www.maenamresort.com; bungalows 1400-3000B; ) Palm-bark cottages are set in several rows amid a private, jungle-like garden. They’re decked out in a mix of wicker and wooden furnishings, and vary in price according to their distance from the beach. Suites are a steal for families.

Harry’s Bungalows $$

( 0 7742 5447; www.harrys-samui.com; bungalows 1200-3000B; ) Arriving at Harry’s feels like entering sacred temple grounds. Polished teak wood abounds in the lobby and the classic pitched roofing reaches skyward. The concrete bungalows, stashed in a verdant garden, do not retain the flamboyant architectural theme out front, but they’re cute and comfortable nonetheless.

Coco Palm Resort Bungalows $$

( 0 7742 5095; bungalows 1200B; ) The bungalows at Coco Palm have been crafted with tonnes of rattan. A rectangular pool is the centrepiece along the beach – and the price is right for a resort-like atmosphere.

Shangrilah Bungalows $

( 0 7742 5189; bungalows 300-2000B; ) A backpacker’s Shangri La indeed – these are some of the cheapest huts around and they’re in decent condition.

WEST COAST

Largely the domain of Thai tourists, Samui’s west coast doesn’t have the most picturesque beaches, but it’s a welcome escape from the east-side bustle.

InterContinental Samui Baan Taling Ngam Resort Resort $$$

( 0 7742 9100; www.ichotelsgroup.com/intercon tinental; r from 6300B; ) Unlike most of Samui’s five-star digs, Baan Taling Ngam has been designed in a ‘classic Thai’ theme. Luxuriously appointed guest accommodation contains custom-made Thai-style furnishings and the service here is impeccable. As it’s not right on the beach, a shuttle service transports guests back and forth; airport and ferry transfers are also provided.

Am Samui Bungalows $$

( 0 7723 5165; www.amsamuiresort.com; bungalows from 1100B; ) Cast modesty aside, spread your curtains wide, and welcome sunshine and sea views in through your floor-to-ceiling windows. Lounge-worthy porch furniture further contributes to the comfy, casual vibe established at the open-air restaurant and pool.

SOUTH COAST

The southern end of Ko Samui is spotted with rocky headlands and smaller sandy coves. The following options are all well worth the baht, in fact, these resorts represent some of our favourite places to stay on the island.

Easy Time Bungalows $$

( 0 7792 0110; www.easytimesamui.com; Phang Ka; r from 1950B; ) Safely tucked away from the throngs of tourists, this little haven – nestled inland around a serene swimming pool – is a great place to unwind. Duplex villa units and a chic dining space create an elegant mood that is refreshingly unpretentious.

Elements Resort $$$

( 0 7791 4678; www.elements-koh-samui.com; Phang Ka; r 5540-21,500B; ) A refreshing twist on the modern boutique sleep, Elements occupies a lonely strand of palm-studded sand. Rooms are arranged in condo-like blocks, each one featuring an eye-pleasing blend of Thai and West styling. Hidden villas dot the path down to the fire-coloured restaurant and ocean-side lounge area.

Eating

If you thought it was hard to pick a place to sleep, the island has even more options when it comes to dining. From roasted crickets to beluga caviar – Samui’s got it and is not afraid to flaunt it.

Influenced by the mainland, Samui is peppered with kôw gaang (rice and curry) shops, usually just a wooden shack displaying large metal pots of southern Thai-style curries. Folks pull up on their motorcycles, lift up the lids to survey the vibrantly coloured contents, and pick one for lunch. Kôw gaang shops are easily found along the Ring Rd (Rte 4169) and sell out of the good stuff by 1pm. Any build-up of local motorcycles is usually a sign of a good meal in progress.

The upmarket choices are even more numerous and although Samui’s swank dining scene is laden with Italian options, visitors will have no problem finding flavours from around the globe. Lured by high salaries and spectacular weather, world-class chefs regularly make an appearance on the island.

CHAWENG

Dozens of the restaurants on the ‘strip’ serve a mixed bag of local bites, international cuisine, and greasy fast food. For the best ambience, get off the road and head to the beach, where many bungalow operators set up tables on the sand and have glittery fairy lights at night.

Samui Institute of Thai Culinary Arts Thai $$$

(SITCA; Click here; 0 7741 3434; course 1950B; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Go one better than savouring a traditional Thai meal: cook it yourself!

Laem Din Market Market $

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(dishes from 30B; 4am-6pm, night market 6pm-2am) A busy day market, Laem Din is packed with stalls that sell fresh fruits, vegetables and meats and stock local Thai kitchens. Pick up a kilo of sweet green oranges or wander the stalls trying to spot the ingredients in last night’s curry. For dinner, come to the adjacent night market and sample the tasty southern-style fried chicken and curries.

Gringo’s Cantina Mexican $$

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(dishes 140-280B; dinner) Wash down a Tex-Mex classic with a jug of sangria or a frozen margarita. We liked the chimichangas (mostly because we like saying chimichanga). There are burgers, pizzas and vegie options too, for those who don’t want to go ‘south of the border’.

Page Asian Fusion $$$

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(dishes 180-850B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) If you can’t afford to stay at the ultra-swanky Library, have a meal at its beachside restaurant. The food is expensive (of course) but you’ll receive glances from the beach bums on the beach as they try to figure out if you’re a jetsetter or movie star. Lunch is a bit more casual and affordable, but you’ll miss the designer lighting effects in the evening.

Prego Italian $$$

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(www.prego-samui.com; mains 200-700B; dinner) This smart ministry of culinary style serves up fine Italian cuisine in a barely-there dining room of cool marble and modern geometry. Reservations are accepted for seatings at 7pm and 9pm.

Dr Frogs Steakhouse $$$

(mains 380-790B; lunch & dinner) Perched atop a rocky overlook, Dr Frogs combines incredible ocean vistas with delicious international flavours (namely Italian and Thai favourites). Delectable steaks and crab cakes, and friendly owners, put this spot near the top of our dining list.

Betelnut@Buri Rasa Asian Fusion $$$

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(mains 600-800B; dinner) Fusion can be confusing, and often disappointing, but Betelnut will set you straight. Chef Jeffrey Lords claims an American upbringing and European culinary training, but most importantly he spent time in San Francisco, where all good food is born. The menu is a pan-Pacific mix of curries and chowder, papaya and pancetta.

Zico’s Brazilian $$$

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(menu 790B; dinner) This palatial churrascaria puts the carne in Carnival . Vegetarians beware – Zico’s is an all-you-can-eat Brazilian meat-fest complete with saucy dancers sporting peacock-like outfits.

Khaosan Restaurant & Bakery International $

(dishes from 60B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) From filet mignon to flapjacks and everything in between, this chow house is popular with those looking for a cheap nosh. Hang around after your meal and catch a newly released movie on the big TV. It’s everything you’d expect from a place called ‘Khaosan’.

Wave Samui International $

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(dishes from 60B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Everyone says that Samui is going upmarket, but the most crowded restaurants at dinnertime are still the old-fashioned budget spots, like this one. This jack-of-all trades (guest house-bar-restaurant) serves honest food at honest prices and fosters a travellers' ambience with an in-house library and a popular happy hour (3pm to 7pm).

Lamai

As Samui’s second-most populated beach, Lamai has a surprisingly limited assortment of decent eateries when compared to Chaweng next door. The Tesco Lotus is a great place to pick up snacks for a beachside picnic. Most visitors, however, dine wherever they’re staying.

Rocky’s International $$$

(dishes 300-800B; lunch & dinner) Easily the top dining spot on Lamai, Rocky’s gourmet dishes are actually a bargain when you convert the baht into your native currency. Try the signature beef tenderloin with blue cheese – it’s like sending your tastebuds on a Parisian vacation. On Tuesday evenings, diners enjoy a special Thai-themed evening with a prepared menu of local delicacies. Rocky’s is located at the like-named resort just south of Lamai.

Lamai Day Market Market $

(dishes from 30B; 6am-8pm) The Thai equivalent of a grocery store, Lamai’s market is a hive of activity, selling food necessities and takeaway food. Visit the covered area to pick up fresh fruit or to see vendors shredding coconuts to make coconut milk. Or hunt down the ice-cream seller for homemade coconut ice cream. It’s next door to a petrol station.

Hua Thanon Market Market $

(dishes from 30B; 6am-6pm) Slip into the rhythm of this village market slightly south of Lamai; a window into the food ways of southern Thailand. Vendors shoo away the flies from the freshly butchered meat and housewives load bundles of vegetables into their baby-filled motorcycle baskets. Follow the market road to the row of food shops delivering edible Muslim culture: chicken biryani, fiery curries or toasted rice with coconut, bean sprouts, lemongrass and dried shrimp.

Northern Beaches

Some of Samui’s finest establishments are located on the northern coast. Boho Bo Phut has several trendy eateries to match the string of yuppie boutique hotels.

CHOENG MON & BIG BUDDHA BEACH (BANG RAK)

Dining On The Rocks Asian Fusion $$$

( 0 7724 5678; reservations-samui@sixsenses.com; Choeng Mon; menus from 2200B; dinner) Samui’s ultimate dining experience takes place on nine cantilevered verandahs of weathered teak and bamboo that yawn over the gulf. After sunset (and a glass of wine), guests feel like they’re dining on a wooden barge set adrift on a starlit sea. Each dish on the six-course prix-fixe menu is the brainchild of the experimental cooks who regularly experiment with taste, texture and temperature. If you’re celebrating a special occasion, you’ll have to book well in advance if you want to sit at ‘table 99’ – the honeymooners’ table – positioned on a private terrace. Dining On The Rocks is located at the isolated Six Senses Samui.

BBC International $$

(Big Buddha Beach; dishes 60-200B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) No, this place has nothing to do with Dr Who – BBC stands for Big Buddha Café. It’s popular with the local expats, the international menu is large, and there are exquisite ocean views from the patio.

Antica Locanda Italian $$

(www.anticasamui.com; dishes 170-280B; dinner) This friendly trattoria has pressed white tablecloths and caskets of Italian wine. Try the vongole alla marinara (clams in white wine) and don’t forget to check out the succulent specials of the day.

If you’re waiting for a ferry in Bang Rak consider stopping by one of the following:

Catcantoo BBQ $$ (http://catcantoo.net; mains 90-350B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Enjoy bargain-basement breakfast (99B) in the morning, succulent ribs at noon, or shooting some pool later in the day.

Pae Chuan Chim Thai $ (mains 30-40B; breakfast & lunch) Without an ounce of atmosphere to speak of, this open-air noodle-scooping haunt is popular with locals who break for lunch to reenergise. Located next to the hyperbaric chamber.

BO PHUT

Shack Bar & Grill Steakhouse $$$

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(www.theshackgrillsamui.com; mains 480-780B; dinner) With hands down the best steaks on the island, the Shack imports the finest cuts of meat from Australia and slathers them in a rainbow of tasty sauces from red wine to blue cheese. Booth seating and jazz over the speakers give the joint a distinctly Western vibe, though you’ll find all types of diners come here to splurge.

Zazen Asian Fusion $$$

(dishes 550-850B, set menu from 1300B; lunch & dinner) The chef describes the food as ‘organic and orgasmic’, and the ambient ‘yums’ from elated diners definitely confirm the latter. This romantic dining experience comes complete with ocean views, dim candle lighting and soft music. Reservations recommended.

Starfish & Coffee Thai $$

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(mains 130-180B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) This streamer-clad eatery was probably named after the Prince song, since we couldn’t find any starfish on the menu (there’s loads of coffee though). Evenings feature standard Thai fare and sunset views of rugged Ko Pha-Ngan.

Villa Bianca Italian $$

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(dishes from 200B; lunch & dinner) Another fantastic Italian spot on Samui, Villa Bianca is a sea of crisp white tablecloths and woven lounge chairs. Who knew wicker could be so sexy?

Karma Sutra International $$

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(mains 130-260B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) A haze of purples and pillows, this charming chow spot in the heart of Bo Phut’s Fisherman’s Village serves up international and Thai eats listed on colourful chalkboards. Karma Sutra doubles as a clothing boutique.

Mae Nam & Bang Po

Angela’s Bakery bakery, International $$

(Mae Nam; dishes 80-200B; breakfast & lunch) Duck through the screen of hanging plants into this beloved bakery, smelling of fresh bread and hospitality. Angela’s sandwiches and cakes have kept many Western expats from wasting away in the land of rice.

Bang Po Seafood Seafood $$

(Bang Po; dishes from 100B; dinner) A meal at Bang Po Seafood is a test for the tastebuds. It’s one of the only restaurants that serves traditional Ko Samui fare (think of it as island roadkill, well, actually it's more like local sea-kill): recipes call for ingredients such as raw sea urchin roe, baby octopus, sea water, coconut, and local turmeric.

West Coast

The quiet west coast features some of the best seafood on Samui. Na Thon has a giant day market on Th Thawi Ratchaphakdi – it’s worth stopping by to grab some snacks before your ferry ride.

Five Islands Seafood $$$

(www.thefiveislands.com; Taling Ngam; dishes 150-500B, tours 3000-6500B; lunch & dinner) Five Islands defines the term ‘destination dining’ and offers the most unique eating experience on the island. Before your meal, a traditional longtail boat will take you out into the turquoise sea to visit the haunting Five Sister Islands where you’ll learn about the ancient and little-known art of harvesting bird nests to make bird’s-nest soup, a Chinese delicacy. This perilous task is rewarded with large sums of cash – a kilo of nests is usually sold for 100,000B to restaurants in Hong Kong (yup, that’s five zeros). The lunch tour departs around 10am, and the dinner program leaves around 3pm. Customers are also welcome to dine without going on the tour and vice versa.

About Art & Craft Café Vegetarian $$

(Na Thon; dishes 80-180B; breakfast & lunch) An artistic oasis in the midst of hurried Na Thon, this cafe serves an eclectic assortment of healthy and wholesome food, gourmet coffee and, as the name states, art and craft, made by the owner and her friends. Relaxed and friendly, this is also a gathering place for Samui’s dwindling population of bohemians and artists.

Drinking & Entertainment

Samui’s biggest party spot is, without a doubt, noisy Chaweng. Lamai and Bo Phut come in second and third respectively, while the rest of the island is generally quiet, as the drinking is usually focused around self-contained resort bars.

Chaweng & Lamai

Making merry in Chaweng is a piece of cake. Most places are open until 2am and there are a few places that go strong all night long. Soi Green Mango has loads of girly bars. Soi Colibri and Soi Reggae Pub are raucous as well.

Beach Republic Lounge

(www.beachrepublic.com; 176/34 Moo 4 Hat Lamai) Recognised by its yawning thatch-patched awnings, Beach Republic would be the perfect spot to shoot one of those MTV Spring Break episodes. There’s an inviting wading pool, comfy lounge chairs and an endless cocktail list.

Q-Bar Lounge

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(www.qbarsamui.com; Hat Chaweng) Overlooking Chaweng Lake, Q-Bar is a little piece of Bangkok nightlife planted among the coconut trees. The upstairs lounge opens just before sunset, treating cocktail connoisseurs to various highbrow tipples and a drinkable view of southern Chaweng – mountains, sea and sky. After 10pm, the night-crawlers descend upon the downstairs club where DJs spin the crowd into a techno amoeba. A taxi there will cost between 200B and 300B.

Ark Bar Bar

(www.ark-bar.com; Hat Chaweng) The ‘it’ destination for a Wednesday-night romp on Samui. Drinks are dispensed from the multicoloured bar draped in paper lanterns, and guests lounge on pyramidal pillows strewn down the beach. The party usually starts around 4pm.

Christy’s Cabaret Cabaret

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(Hat Chaweng) This flashy joint offers free gà·teu·i (ladyboys; also spelled kàthoey) cabaret every night at 11pm and attracts a mixed clientele of both sexes. Other ladyboys loiter out front and try to drag customers in, so to speak.

Good Karma Bar

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(Hat Chaweng) Open all day, this snazzy lounge lures the hip ‘hi-so’ (Thai high society) crowd with canopied daybeds and a hidden pond.

Bar Solo Bar

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(Hat Chaweng) A sign of things to come, Bar Solo has future-fitted Chaweng’s outdoor beer halls into an urban setting with sleek cubist decor and a cocktail list that doesn’t scream holiday hayseed. The evening drink specials lure in the front-loaders preparing for a late, late night at the dance clubs on Soi Solo and Soi Green Mango.

Tropical Murphy’s Irish Bar

(Hat Chaweng) A popular fa·ràng (foreigner) joint, Tropical Murphy’s dishes out steak-and-kidney pie, fish and chips, lamb chops and Irish stew (mains 50B to 300B). Come night-time, the live music kicks on and this place turns into the most popular Irish bar on Samui (yes, there are a few).

Green Mango Bar

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(Hat Chaweng) This place is so popular it has an entire soi named after it. Samui’s favourite power drinking house is very big, very loud and very faràng. Green Mango has blazing lights, expensive drinks and masses of sweaty bodies swaying to dance music.

Reggae Pub Bar

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(Hat Chaweng) This fortress of fun sports an open-air dance floor with music spun by foreign DJs. It’s a towering two-storey affair with long bars, pool tables and a live-music stage. The whole place doubles as a shrine to Bob Marley.

Mint Bar

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(Hat Chaweng) The scene on Green Mango Soi is too entertaining to keep the crowds corralled in this stylish club on ordinary nights. But the Mint is able to lure a few DJ heavyweights for a Samui spin on extraordinary nights. Watch the entertainment listings for special events.

Northern & West Coast Beaches

Woo Bar Lounge

(Mae Nam) The W Retreat’s signature lobby bar gives the word ‘swish’ a whole new meaning with cushion-clad pods of seating plunked in the middle of an expansive infinity pool that stretches out over the infinite horizon. This is, without a doubt, the best place on Samui for a sunset cocktail.

Nikki Beach Lounge

(www.nikkibeach.com/kohsamui; Lipa Noi) The acclaimed luxury brand has brought its international savoir faire to the secluded west coast of Ko Samui. Expect everything you would from a chic address in St Barts or St Tropez: haute cuisine, chic decor and gaggles of jetsetters. Themed brunch and dinner specials keep the masses coming throughout the week, and sleek bungalow accommodation is also on offer.

Pier Lounge

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(Bo Phut) This sleek black box sticks out among Bo Phut’s narrow Chinese tenements. It’s the hippest address in Fisherman’s Village, sporting multilevel terraces, a lively bar, and plenty of wide furniture to lounge around on and watch the rickety fishing vessels pull into the harbour.

Gecko Village Club

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(Bo Phut) For electronica fans, Gecko Village is the original maven of beats. It’s a beachfront bar and resort that has used its London connections to lure international DJs to Samui paradise. The New Year’s Eve parties and Sunday sessions are now legendary thanks to the big names that grace the turntables.

Billabong Surf Club Bar

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(Bo Phut) Billabong’s all about Aussie Rules football – it’s playing on the TV and the walls are smothered with memorabilia from Down Undah. There are great views of Ko Pha-Ngan and hearty portions of ribs and chops to go with your draught beer.

Information

Dangers & Annoyances

As on Phuket, the rate of road accident fatalities on Samui is quite high. This is mainly due to the large number of tourists who rent motorcycles only to find out that the winding roads, sudden tropical rains and frenzied traffic can be lethal. If you decide to rent a motorcycle, protect yourself by wearing a helmet, and ask for one that has a plastic visor. Even if you escape unscathed from a riding experience, we’ve heard reports that some shops will claim that you damaged your rental and will try to extort you for some serious cash.

Beach vendors are registered with the government and should all be wearing a numbered jacket. No peddler should cause an incessant disturbance – seek assistance if this occurs.

Emergency

Tourist police ( 0 7742 1281, emergency 1155) Based at the south of Na Thon.

Immigration Offices & Visas

Located about 2km south of Na Thon is Ko Samui’s Immigration Office ( 0 7742 1069; 8.30am-noon & 1-4.30pm Mon-Fri). Officials here tend to issue the minimum rather than maximum visa extensions. During our visits here we’ve watched dozens of tourists wait through exhausting lines only to get curtly denied an extension for no particular reason. On a particularly bad day expect extensions to take the entire afternoon. See Click here for more details on visas.

Internet Access

There are countless places all over the island for internet access, even at the less popular beaches. Prices range from 1B to 2B per minute. Keep an eye out for restaurants that offer complimentary wi-fi service. Most accommodation offers a wi-fi connection; ironically you’ll pay extra for it at high-end hotels.

Media & Maps

The Siam Map Company puts out quarterly booklets including a Spa Guide, Dining Guide, and an annual directory, which lists thousands of companies and hotels on the island. Its Siam Map Company Samui Guide Map is fantastic, free, and easily found throughout the island. Also worth a look is the Samui Navigator pamphlet. Essential (www.essential-samui) is a pocket-sized pamphlet focused on promoting Samui’s diverse activities. Samui Guide looks more like a magazine and features mostly restaurants and attractions.

Medical Services

Ko Samui has four private hospitals, all near Chaweng’s Tesco-Lotus supermarket on the east coast (where most of the tourists tend to gather). The government hospital in Na Thon has seen significant improvements in the last couple of years but the service is still a bit grim because funding is based on the number of Samui’s legal residents (which doesn’t take into account the many illegal Burmese workers).

Bandon International Hospital ( 0 7742 5840, emergency 0 7742 5748)

Bangkok Samui Hospital ( 0 7742 9500, emergency 0 7742 9555) Your best bet for just about any medical problem.

Hyperbaric Chamber ( 0 7742 7427; Big Buddha Beach) The island’s dive medicine specialists.

Samui International Hospital ( 0 7742 2272; www.sih.co.th; Hat Chaweng) Emergency ambulance service is available 24 hours and credit cards are accepted. Near the Amari Resort in Chaweng.

Money

Changing money isn’t a problem on the east and north coasts, and in Na Thon. Multiple banks and foreign-exchange booths offer daily services and there’s an ATM every couple of hundred metres. You should not have to pay credit card fees as you do on neighbouring Ko Tao.

Post

In several parts of the island there are privately run post-office branches charging a small commission. You can almost always leave your stamped mail with your accommodation.

Main post office (Na Thon) Near the TAT office; not always reliable.

Tourist information

Essential (www.essential-samui) A pocket-sized pamphlet focused on promoting Samui’s diverse activities.

Samui Guide (www.samuiguide.com) This guide looks more like a magazine and features mostly restaurants and attractions.

Samui Navigator (www.samuinavigaot.com) This pamphlet is also worth a look.

Siam Map Company (www.siammap.com) Puts out quarterly booklets including guides to spas and dining spots, and an annual directory, which lists thousands of companies and hotels on the island. Its Siam Map Company Samui Guide Map is fantastic, free and easily found throughout the island.

TAT office ( 0 7742 0504; Na Thon; 8.30am-4.30pm) At the northern end of Na Thon; this office is friendly, helpful and has handy brochures and maps – although travel agents throughout the island can provide similar information.

Getting There & Away

Air

Samui’s airport is located in the northeast of the island near Big Buddha Beach. Bangkok Airways (www.bangkokair.com) operates flights roughly every 30 minutes between Samui and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi Airport (50 minutes). Bangkok Air also flies direct from Samui to Phuket, Pattaya, Chiang Mai, Singapore and Hong Kong. Firefly (www.fireflyz.com.my) operates direct flights from Samui to Kuala Lumpur’s Subang airport.

There is a Bangkok Airways Office ( 0 7742 0512-9) in Chaweng and another at the airport ( 0 7742 5011). The first (at 6am) and last (10pm) flights of the day are always the cheapest.

During the high season, make your flight reservations far in advance as seats often sell out. If the Samui flights are full, try flying into Surat Thani from Bangkok and taking a short ferry ride to Samui instead. Flights to Surat Thani are generally cheaper than a direct flight to the island, although they are much more of a hassle.

Boat

To reach Samui, the four main piers on the mainland are Ao Ban Don, Tha Thong, Don Sak and Khanom – Tha Thong (in central Surat) and Don Sak being the most common. On Samui, the three oft-used ports are Na Thon, Mae Nam and Big Buddha. Expect complimentary taxi transfers with high-speed ferry services.

There are frequent boat departures between Samui and Surat Thani. The hourly Seatran ferry is a common option. Ferries take one to five hours, depending on the boat. A couple of these departures can connect with the train station in Phun Phin (for a nominal extra fee). The slow night boat to Samui leaves from central Surat Thani each night at 11pm, reaching Na Thon around 5am. It returns from Na Thon at 9pm, arriving at around 3am. Watch your bags on this boat.

There are almost a dozen daily departures between Samui and Ko Pha-Ngan. These leave from the Na Thon, Mae Nam or Big Buddha pier and take from 20 minutes to one hour. The boats departing from Big Buddha service Hat Rin, and the other boats alight at Thong Sala. From the same piers, there are also around six daily departures between Samui and Ko Tao. These take 1¼ to 2½ hours.

Bus & Train

A bus-ferry combo is more convenient than a train-ferry package for getting to Ko Samui because you don’t have to switch transportation in Phun Phin. However, the trains are much more comfortable and spacious – especially at night. If you prefer the train, you can get off at Chumphon and catch the Lomprayah catamaran service the rest of the way.

Getting Around

Motorbikes You can rent motorcycles (and bicycles) from almost every resort on the island. The going rate is 200B per day, but for longer periods try to negotiate a better rate.

Sŏrng·tăa·ou Drivers of sŏrng·tăa·ou love to try to overcharge you, so it’s always best to ask a third party for current rates, as they can change with the season. These vehicles run regularly during daylight hours. It’s about 50B to travel between beaches, and no more than 100B to travel halfway across the island. Figure about 20B for a five-minute ride on a motorcycle taxi.

Taxis On Samui service is quite chaotic due to the plethora of cabs. In the past taxi fares were unwieldy; these days prices are more standardised across the islands (though fares are still ridiculously inflated compared to Bangkok). Taxis typically charge around 500B for an airport transfer. Some Chaweng travel agencies can arrange minibus taxis for less.

Ko Pha-Ngan

pop 11,000

In the family of southern Gulf islands, Ko Pha-Ngan sits in the crystal sea between Ko Samui, its business-savvy older brother, and little Ko Tao, the spunky younger brother full of dive-centric energy. Ko Pha-Ngan is a chilled out middle child who is a beach bum with tattered dreadlocks, a tattoo of a Chinese serenity symbol, and a penchant for white nights and bikini-clad pool parties.

The scenic cape of Hat Rin has long been the darling destination of this laid-back paradise. Sunrise Beach started hosting the world-famous Full Moon Parties long before Alex Garland’s The Beach inspired many to strap on a rucksack. Today, thousands of visitors still flock to the island's sands for an epic trance-a-thon fuelled by adrenaline and a couple of other substances…

But like any textbook teenager, this angst-ridden island can’t decide what it wants to be when it grows up. Should the party personality persist or will the stunning and secluded northern beaches finally come out from under Hat Rin’s shadow?

While Pha-Ngan’s slacker vibe and reputation will no doubt dominate for years to come, the island is secretly starting to creep upmarket. Every year, tired old shacks are being replaced by crisp modern abodes. In Hat Rin, you will be hard-pressed to find a room on Sunrise Beach for less than 1000B. Soon, the phrase ‘private infinity pool’ and ‘personal butler’ will find a permanent place in the island’s lexicon, replacing ‘pass the dutch’ and ‘another whiskey bucket please’. But don’t fret just yet – the vast inland jungle continues to feel undiscovered, and there are still plenty of secluded bays in which you can string up a hammock and watch the tide roll in.

Sights

For those who tire of beach-bumming, this large jungle island has many natural features to explore including mountains, waterfalls and, most importantly, some of the most spectacular beaches in all of Thailand.

Beaches & Waterfalls

There are many waterfalls throughout the island’s interior, four of which gush throughout the year.

Nam Tok Than Sadet Waterfall

These falls feature boulders carved with the royal insignia of Rama V, Rama VII and Rama IX. King Rama V enjoyed this hidden spot so much that he returned over a dozen times between 1888 and 1909. The river waters of Khlong Than Sadet are now considered sacred and used in royal ceremonies. Also near the eastern coast, Than Prawet is a series of chutes that snake inland for approximately 2km.

Nam Tok Phaeng Waterfall

In the centre of the island, Nam Tok Phaeng is protected by a national park; this waterfall is a pleasant reward after a short, but rough, hike. Continue the adventure and head up to Khao Ra, the highest mountain on the island at 625m. Those with eagle-eyes will spot wild crocodiles, monkeys, snakes, deer and boar along the way, and the viewpoint from the top is spectacular – on a clear day you can see Ko Tao. Although the trek isn’t arduous, it is very easy to lose one’s way, and we highly recommend hiring an escort in Ban Madeua Wan (near the falls). The local guides have crude signs posted in front of their homes, and, if they’re around, they’ll take you up to the top for 500B. Most of them only speak Thai.

Hat Khuat Beach

Also called Bottle Beach, Hat Khuat is a classic fave. Visitors flock to this shore for a relaxing day of swimming and snorkelling – some opt to stay the night at one of the several bungalow operations along the beach. For additional seclusion, try the isolated beaches on the east coast, which include Than Sadet, Hat Yuan, Hat Thian and the teeny Ao Thong Reng. For additional enchanting beaches, consider doing a day trip to the stunning Ang Thong Marine National Park (Click here).

Wát

Remember to change out of your beach clothes when visiting one of the 20 wát on Ko Pha-Ngan. Most temples are open during daylight hours.

The oldest temple on the island is Wat Phu Khao Noi, near the hospital in Thong Sala. While the site is open to visitors throughout the day, the monks are only around in the morning. Wat Pho, near Ban Tai, has a herbal sauna (admission 50B; 3-6pm) accented with natural lemongrass. The Chinese Temple is believed to give visitors good luck. It was constructed about 20 years ago after a visiting woman had a vision of the Chinese Buddha, who instructed her to build a fire-light for the island. Wat Khao Tham, also near Ban Tai, sits high on a hill and has resident female monks. At the temple there is a bulletin board detailing a meditation retreat taught by an American-Australian couple. For additional information, write in advance to Wat Khao Tham, PO Box 8, Ko Pha-Ngan, Surat Thani 84280.

Activities

Diving & Snorkelling

With Ko Tao, the high-energy diving behemoth, just a few kilometres away, Ko Pha-Ngan enjoys a much quieter, more laid-back diving scene focused on fun diving rather than certifications. A recent drop in Open Water certification prices has made local prices competitive with Ko Tao next door. Group sizes tend to be smaller on Ko Pha-Ngan since the island has less divers in general.

Like the other islands in the Samui Archipelago, Pha-Ngan has several small reefs dispersed around the island. The clear favourite snorkelling spot is Ko Ma, a small island in the northwest connected to Ko Pha-Ngan by a charming sandbar. There are also some rock reefs of interest on the eastern side of the island.

A major perk of diving from Ko Pha-Ngan is the proximity to Sail Rock (Hin Bai), the best dive site in the Gulf of Thailand and a veritable beacon for whale sharks. This large pinnacle lies about 14km north of the island. An abundance of corals and large tropical fish can be seen at depths of 10m to 30m, and there’s a rocky vertical swim-through called ‘The Chimney’.

Dive shops on Ko Tao sometimes visit Sail Rock, however the focus tends to be more on swallow reefs (for newbie divers) and the shark-infested waters at Chumphon Pinnacle. The most popular trips departing from Ko Pha-Ngan are three-site day trips which stop at Chumphon Pinnacle, Sail Rock and one of the other premiere sites in the area (see boxed text Click here). These three-stop trips cost from around 3650B to 3800B and include a full lunch. Two-dive trips to Sail Rock will set you back around 2350B to 2500B.

The following list includes the main operators on the island with a solid reputation.

Reefers Diving

( 08 6471 4045; www.reefersdiving.com) Based at Shiralea (Click here), this is one of the newer outfits on the island. Vic, the owner, and his gaggle of instructors are chilled and professional. Recommended.

Lotus Diving Diving

( 0 7737 4142; www.lotusdiving.net) This dive centre has top-notch instructors, and owns not one, but two beautiful boats (that’s two more vessels than most of the other operations on Ko Pha-Ngan). Trips can be booked at their office in Chalok Lam, or at the Backpackers Information Centre. Recommended.

Haad Yao Divers Diving

( 08 6279 3085; www.haadyaodivers.com) Established in 1997, this dive operator has garnered a strong reputation by maintaining European standards of safety and customer service.

Other Activities

Hiking and snorkelling day trips to Ang Thong Marine National Park (Click here) generally depart from Ko Samui, but recently tour operators are starting to shuttle tourists from Ko Pha-Ngan as well. Ask at your accommodation for details about boat trips as companies often come and go due to unstable petrol prices.

Many of the larger accommodation options can hook you up with a variety of aquatic equipment such as jet skis and kayaks, and the friendly staff at Backpackers Information Centre can attend to any of your other water-sports needs.

Wake Up Wakeboarding

( 08 7283 6755; www.wakeupwakeboarding.com; Jan-Oct) Jamie passes along his infinite wakeboarding wisdom to eager wannabes at his small water sports school in Chalok Lam. Fifteen minutes of ‘air time’ will set you back 1500B (2500B for 30 minutes), which is excellent value considering you get one-on-one instruction. Kite-boarding, wake-skating and waterskiing sessions are also available, as are round-the-island day trips (2000B per person; a six-person quorum needed).

Eco Nature Tour Tour

( 08 4850 6273) This exceedingly popular oufit offers a ‘best of’ island trip, which includes elephant trekking, snorkelling and a visit to the Chinese temple, a stunning viewpoint and Phang waterfall. The day trip, which costs 1500B, departs at 9am and returns around 3pm. Bookings can be made at its office in Thong Sala or at the Backpackers Information Centre. Pha-Ngan Safari ( 0 7737 4159, 08 1895 3783) offers a similar trip for 1900B.

Sleeping

Ko Pha-Ngan’s legendary history of laid-back revelry has solidified its reputation as the stomping ground for the gritty backpacker lifestyle. Recently, however, the island is starting to see a shift towards a more upmarket clientele. Many local mainstays have collapsed their bamboo huts and constructed newer, sleeker accommodation aimed at the ever-growing legion of ‘flashpackers’.

On other parts of the island, new tracts of land are being cleared for Samui-esque five-star resorts. But backpackers fear not; it’ll still be many years before the castaway lifestyle goes the way of the dodo. For now, Ko Pha-Ngan can revel in its three distinct classes of lodging: pinch-a-penny shacks, trendy midrange hang-outs, and blow-the-bank luxury.

Hat Rin sees a huge number of visitors compared to the rest of the island. Party pilgrims flock to this picturesque peninsula for the legendary festivities, and although most of them sleep through the daylight hours, the setting remains quite picturesque despite the errant beer bottle in the sand. The southern part of Sunrise Beach is starting to reek of kerosene due to the nightly fire-related shenanigans at Drop-In Bar – needless to say it’s best to sunbathe at the quieter northern part of the sand.

Pha-Ngan also caters to a subculture of seclusion-seekers who crave a deserted slice of sand. The northern and eastern coasts offer just that – a place to escape.

The following sleeping options are organised into five sections: we start in Hat Rin, move along the southern coast, head up the west side, across the northern beaches and down the quiet eastern shore.

Hat Rin

The thin peninsula of Hat Rin features three separate beaches. Hat Rin Nok (Sunrise Beach) is the epicentre of Full Moon tomfoolery, Hat Rin Nai (Sunset Beach) is the less impressive stretch of sand on the far side of the tiny promontory, and Hat Seekantang (also known as Hat Leela), just south of Hat Rin Nai, is a smaller, more private beach. The three beaches are linked by Ban Hat Rin (Hat Rin Town) – a small inland collection of restaurants and bars.

Needless to say, the prices listed here are meaningless during periods of maximum lunar orbicularity. Also, during Full Moon events, bungalow operations expect you to stay for a minimum number of days (around four or five). If you plan to arrive the day of the party (or even the day before), we strongly suggest booking a room in advance, or else you’ll probably have to sleep on the beach (which you might end up doing anyway). Full Mooners can also stay on Samui and take one of the hourly speedboat shuttles (from 550B) to access the festivities.

Sarikantang Resort $$$

( 0 7737 5055; www.sarikantang.com; Hat Seekantang; bungalows 1400-6200B; ) Don’t get too strung out over trying to pronounce the resort’s name – you can simply call this place ‘heaven’. Cream-coloured cabins, framed with teak posts and lintels, are sprinkled among swaying palms and crumbling winged statuettes. Inside, the rooms look like the set of a photo shoot for an interior design magazine.

Pha-Ngan Bayshore Resort Resort $$

Offline map

( 0 7737 5227; www.phanganbayshore.com; Hat Rin Nok; r 1700-3200B; ) After a much-needed overhaul in 2009, this hotel-style operation has primed itself for the ever-increasing influx of flashpackers in Hat Rin. Sweeping beach views and a giant swimming pool make Pha-Ngan Bayshore one of the top addresses on Sunrise Beach.

Seaview Sunrise Bungalows $

Offline map

(www.seaviewsunrise.com; Hat Rin Nok; r 500-800; ) As far as budget digs are concerned, this is the only solid option for Full Moon revellers who want a sleeping spot within inches of the tide. Huts are sturdy and perfectly utilitarian. The polished wooden interiors are splashed with the occasional burst of neon paint from the ghosts of parties past. Try for a bungalow away from the small canal to avoid the mosquitos.

Palita Lodge Bungalows $$

Offline map

( 0 7737 5172; www.palitalodge.com; Hat Rin Nok; bungalows 1800-5900B; ) Smack in the heart of the action, Palita is a tribute to the never-ending party that is Hat Rin’s Sunrise Beach. Spacious concrete bungalows, with wooden accents and modern design elements, are neatly pressed together on this beachy wedge of sand and shrubs. Week-long bookings are a must during Full Moon revelry.

Delight Guest house $

Offline map

( 0 7737 5527; www.delightresort.com; Ban Hat Rin; r 700-2200B; ) Tucked behind the bright yellow Kodak sign in the centre of Hat Rin, Delight offers some of the best lodging around. Spic-and-span hotel rooms come with subtle designer details (such as peacock murals) and are sandwiched between an inviting swimming pool and a lazy lagoon peppered with lily pads.

Cocohut Village Resort $$$

Offline map

( 0 7737 5368; www.cocohut.com; Hat Seekantang; bungalows 2800-12,000B; ) This super-social place is the unofficial gathering spot for vacationing Israelis. In fact, Cocohut is so happenin’ that guests might forget that they are just up the street from the brouhaha on Sunrise Beach. The priciest lodging options, such as the cliff villas and beachfront bungalows, are some of the best bets in Hat Rin.

Tommy Resort Resort $$

Offline map

( 0 7737 5215; www.phangantommyresort.com; Hat Rin Nok; r 1490-8000B; ) Tommy is a trendy address in the heart of Hat Rin, striking a balance between chic boutique and carefree backpacker hang-out. The rectangular swimming pool charges things up, since every other man-made body of water on the island looks like it was manufactured at the kidney-shaped pool factory.

Sea Breeze Bungalow Bungalows $$

Offline map

( 0 7737 5162; Ban Hat Rin; bungalows 500-8000B; ) Sea Breeze gets a good report card from our readers, and we agree; the labyrinth of secluded hillside cottages is an ideal hammocked retreat for any type of traveller. Several bungalows, poised high on stilts, deliver stunning views of Hat Rin and the sea.

Lighthouse Bungalows Bungalows $

( 0 7737 5075; www.lighthousebungalows.com; Hat Seekantang; bungalows 300-1200B) Hidden at the far end of Hat Rin, this low-key collection of humble huts gathers along a sloping terrain punctuated by towering palms. To access this secluded resort, walk through Leela Beach Bungalows (don’t bother stopping) and follow the wooden boardwalk as it curves to the left (southeast) around the sea-swept boulders.

Coral Bungalows Resort $

Offline map

( 0 7737 5023; www.coralhaadrin.com; Hat Rin Nai; bungalows 500-1000B; ) This party-centric paradise has firmly planted its flag in ‘Backpackerland’ as the go-to spot for a booze-addled rompfest. By day, sun-worshippers straddle beachside chaises. Then, by night, like a vampire, Coral transforms into a sinister pool-party machine fuelled by one too many vodka Red Bulls.

Same Same Guest house $

Offline map

( 0 7737 5200; www.same-same.com; Ban Hat Rin; r 500-800B; ) Although still a super-sociable spot for Scandinavians during the Full Moon madness, Same Same is but a faint flicker of what it used to be – especially during the quieter parts of the month.

Paradise Bungalows Bungalows $

Offline map

( 0 7737 5244; Hat Rin Nok; bungalows 300-1200B; ) The world-famous Full Moon Party was hatched at this scruffy batch of bungalows, and the place has been living on its name fame ever since. The backpackers keep on coming to wax nostalgic, although the grounds are starting to look more like a junkyard now that the family has divvied up to land into several small ‘resorts’. Paradise lost.

Stroll down Sunset Rd to find the following:

Neptune’s Villa Resort $$

Offline map

( 0 7737 5251; http://neptunesvilla.net; Hat Rin Nai; r from 2000B; ) An old favourite among travellers, Neptune’s is an ever-expanding spot with a mixed bag of accommodation spread across several motel-style units.

Rin Beach Resort Resort $$

Offline map

( 0 7737 5112; www.rinbeachresort.com; Hat Rin Nai; bungalows 1200-10,000B; ) Giant amphorae, spewing forth gushes of water, welcome weary travellers as they tumble off the wooden ferry. Cottages are bright and airy with dark cherry-wood accents and colourful sutra paintings.

Friendly Resort Resort $$

Offline map

( 0 7737 5167; friendly_resort@hotmail.com; Hat Rin Nai; r from 1000B; ) Looking out over the pier, Friendly has a tangle of accommodation wrapped around a small central pool.

Blue Marine Bungalows $

Offline map

( 0 7737 5079; www.bluemarinephangan.com; Hat Rin Nai; bungalows 600-1200B; ) Prim concrete bungalows topped by shimmering blue-tiled roofs.

Southern beaches

The accommodation along the southern coast is the best bang for your baht on Ko Pha-Ngan. There are fleeting views of the islands in the Ang Thong Marine National Park; however, the southern beaches don’t have the postcard-worthy turquoise waters you might be longing for. This section starts at the port in Thong Sala and follows the coast east towards Hat Rin.

BAN TAI

The waters at Ban Tai tend to be shallow and opaque, especially during low season, but lodging options are well-priced compared to other parts of the island, and you’re not too far from Hat Rin.

Coco Garden Bungalows $

( 0 7737 7721, 08 6073 1147; www.cocogardens.com; bungalows 450-1250B; ) The best budget spot along the southern coast, Coco Garden one-ups the nearby resorts with well-manicured grounds and sparkling bungalows that are almost pathologically clean.

B52 Bungalows $$

(www.b52-beach-resort-phangan.info; bungalows 1650-4000B; ) Find your very own love shack at B52’s campus of Thai-styled bungalows sporting plenty of thatch, polished concrete floors and rustic tropical tree trunks.

Milky Bay Resort Resort $$$

( 0 7723 8566; http://milkybaythailand.com; bungalows 2300-13,200B; ) Milky white walls, which permeate the grounds, are peppered with large black stones resembling the spots on a cow. These bovine bulwarks snake through the resort linking the airy, thatched bungalows to the sea.

BAN KHAI

Like Ban Tai, the beaches aren’t the most stunning, but the accommodation is cheap and there are beautiful views of Ang Thong Marine National Park in the distance.

Boom’s Cafe Bungalows Bungalows $

( 0 7723 8318; www.boomscafe.com; bungalows 400-1000B; ) Staying at Boom’s is like visiting the Thai family you never knew you had. The friendly owners lovingly tend their sandy acreage and dote on the contented clientele. No one seems to mind that there’s no swimming pool, since the curling tide rolls right up to your doorstep. Boom’s is located at the far eastern corner of Ban Khai, near Hat Rin.

Mac Bay Bungalows $

( 0 7723 8443; bungalows 500-1500B; ) Home to the Black Moon Party (another lunar excuse for Ko Pha-Ngan to go wild), Mac Bay is a sandy slice of Ban Khai where even the cheaper bungalows are spic and span. At beer o’clock, grab a shaded spot on the sand and watch the sun dance amorphous shadows over the distant islands of Ang Thong Marine Park.

Morning Star Bungalows $$

( 0 7737 7756; www.morningstar-resort.info; bungalows 1600-5390B; ) This collection of wooden and concrete jungle cottages has spotless interiors; some rooms are furnished with noticeably ornate dressers and vanities, others have subtle dark-wood trimming. A dozen white wooden beach chairs orbit the adorable kidney-bean-shaped pool.

WEst Coast Beaches

Now that there are two smooth roads between Thong Sala and Chalok Lam, the west coast has seen a lot of development. The atmosphere is a pleasant mix between the east coast’s quiet seclusion and Hat Rin's sociable vibe, although some of the beaches along the western shores (particularly towards the south) aren’t as picturesque as the other parts of the island.

AO NAI WOK TO SI THANU

Close to Thong Sala, the resorts peppered along this breezy strip mingle with patches of gnarled mangroves. Despite the lack of appealing beaches, the prices are cheap and the sunsets are memorable.

Chills Resort Resort $$

( 08 9875 2100; www.chillsresort.com; Ao Srithanu; r from 1200B; ) Set along a stunning and secluded stretch of stony outcrops, Chills’ cluster of delightfully simple-but-modern rooms all have peaceful ocean views letting in plenty of sunlight and sea breezes. The natural rock-pool perched along the breakers is the perfect place to swig an afternoon cocktail while watching the sunset.

Shambhala Bungalow Village Bungalows $

( 08 9875 2100; www.shambhala-phangan.com; Ao Nai Wok; bungalows 600-1200B; ) Rather than bulldozing tired old beachside bungalows, the owners of Shambhala have lovingly restored a batch of huts and added loads of personal touches that make this not only a memorable place to stay, but also a very comfortable one for those with small coffers. Expect fresh linen, carved wood, artistic lighting and neatly designed bathrooms.

Loy Fa Bungalows $

( 0 7737 7319; loyfabungalow@yahoo.com; Ao Srithanu; bungalows 300-800B; ) Loy Fa scores high marks for its friendly, French-speaking Thai staff, charming gardens and sturdy huts guarding sweeping ocean views. Modern bungalows tumble down the promontory onto an uberprivate sliver of ash-coloured sand.

Grand Sea Resort Resort $$

( 0 7737 7777; www.grandsearesort.com; Ao Nai Wok; bungalows 1200-3000B; ) A good choice for those wanting a bit of sand close to Thong Sala, Grand Sea feels like a collection of wooden Thai spirit houses.

HAT CHAOPHAO

Like Hat Yao up the coast, this rounded beach is lined with a variety of bungalow operations. There’s an inland lake further south, and a 7-Eleven to cure your midnight munchies.

Sunset Cove Bungalows $$

( 0 7734 9211; www.thaisunsetcove.com; bungalows 1200-3580B; ) There’s a feeling of Zen symmetry among the forested assortment of boutique bungalows; the towering bamboo shoots are evenly spaced along the cobbled paths weaving through brush and boulders. The beachside abodes are particularly elegant, sporting slatted rectangular windows and barrel-basined bathtubs.

Pha-Ngan Paragon Bungalows $$$

( 08 4728 6064; www.phanganparagon.com; bungalows 2250-13,100B; ) A tiny hideaway with seven rooms, the Paragon has decor that incorporates stylistic elements from ancient Khmer, India and Thailand, without forfeiting any modern amenities. The ‘royal bedroom’ deserves a special mention – apparently the canopied bed has been imported from Kashmir.

HAT YAO & HAT SON

One of the busier beaches along the west coast, Hat Yao sports a swimmable beach, numerous resorts and a few extra services such as ATMs and convenience stores.

Shiralea Bungalows $

( 08 0719 9256; www.shiralea.com; Hat Yao; bungalows 500B; ) Although this batch of fresh-faced poolside bungalows is not right on the beach (about 100m away), you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better deal on the island. Reefers, the on-site dive outfit offers world-class diving at your doorstep, and don’t forget to ask the friendly owner where the name Shiralea comes from – we’re pretty sure you’ll be quite surprised.

Haad Yao Bay View Resort Resort $$$

( 0 7734 9193; www.haadyao-bayviewresort.com; Hat Yao; r & bungalows 1500-7000B; ) Still sparkling after a facelift in 2008, this conglomeration of bungalows and hotel-style accommodation looks like a tropical mirage on Hat Yao’s northern headland. Vacationers, in various states of undress, linger around the large turquoise swimming pool catching rays and Zs. Others nest in their private suites amid polished hardwood floors and wicker daybeds.

Haad Son Resort Resort $$

( 0 7734 9104; www.haadson.info; Hat Son; bungalows 1000-8000B; ) The word ‘complex’ has a double meaning at this vast resort; we suggest leaving a trail of breadcrumbs along the serpentine paths if you ever want to find the way back to your room. The poshest rooms aren’t worth the baht, so go for the budget digs; they’re simple, but you’ll have access to all of the on-site amenities.

Tantawan Bungalows Bungalows $

( 0 7734 9108; www.tantawanbungalow.com; Hat Son; bungalows 450-550B; ) This charming teak nest, tucked among jungle fronds, is dripping with clinking chandeliers made from peach coral and khaki-coloured seashells. Guests can take a dip in the trapezoidal swimming pool or enjoy the sunrise on their small bamboo porches. Don’t forget to try the tasty on-site restaurant. Diners sit in a sea of geometric cushions while gobbling up some of the tastiest Thai and French-inspired dishes on the island.

High Life Bungalows $

( 0 7734 9114; www.highlifebungalow.com; Hat Yao; bungalows 500-2000B; ) We can’t decide what’s more conspicuous: the dramatic ocean views from the infinity-edged swimming pool, or the blatant double entendre in the resort’s name. True to its moniker, the 25 bungalows, of various shapes and sizes, sit on a palmed outcropping of granite soaring high above the cerulean sea. Advance bookings will set you back an extra 200B.

Haad Yao See Through Boutique Resort Hotel $$

( 0 7734 9315; www.haadyao.net; Hat Yao; r from 1750B; ) After a slice of Hat Yao beach was cut up among brothers, ‘See Through’ came into existence along a thin tract of land. Rooms are decorated with a vibrant swatchbook of yellows, greens and reds, however the exterior – an imposing block of polished concrete – looks more construction site than boutique chic.

HAT SALAD

Hat Salad is our favourite beach on the west coast, and it isn’t short on quality digs set along the inviting sand.

Cookies Salad Resort $$

( 0 7734 9125, 08 3181 7125; www.cookies-phangan.com; bungalows 1500-3000B; ) The resort with a tasty name has delicious Balinese-styled bungalows orbiting a two-tiered lap pool tiled in various shades of blue. Shaggy thatching and dense tropical foliage gives the realm a certain rustic quality, although you won’t want for creature comforts.

Green Papaya Bungalows $$$

( 0 7737 4182; www.greenpapayaresort.com; bungalows 3600-8500B; ) The polished wooden bungalows at Green Papaya are a clear standout along the lovely beach at Hat Salad, however they come at quite a hefty price.

Salad Hut Bungalows $$

( 0 7734 9246; www.saladhut.com; bungalows 1400-4000B; ) Wholly unpretentious yet sharing a beach with some distinctly upscale options, this small clutch of Thai-style bungalows sits but a stone’s throw from the rolling tide. Watch the sun gently set below the waves from your lacquered teak porch.

Salad Beach Resort Bungalows $$

( 0 7734 9149; www.phangan-saladbeachresort.com; bungalows 1900-4900B; ) A full-service retreat along the sands of Salad. Room decor employs an unusual palette of colours, but the grounds are tasteful and understated – especially around the pool.

AO MAE HAT

The northwest tip of the island has excellent ocean vistas, and little Ko Ma is connected to Pha-Ngan by a stunning sandbar.

Royal Orchid Bungalows $

( 0 7737 4182; royal_orchid_maehaad@hotmail.com; bungalows 300-800B; ) Handsome backpacker bungalows are arranged like a zipper along a slender garden path – most have fleeting views of the serene beach and idyllic sandbar that extends to scenic Ko Ma offshore.

Northern Beaches

Stretching from Chalok Lam to Thong Nai Pan, the dramatic northern coast is a wild jungle with several stunning and secluded beaches – it’s the most scenic coast on the island.

CHALOK LAM (CHALOKLUM) & HAT KHOM

The cramped fishing village at Chalok Lam is like no other place on Ko Pha-Ngan. The conglomeration of teak shanties and huts is a palpable reminder that the wide-reaching hand of globalisation has yet to touch some parts of the world. Sŏrng·tăa·ou ply the route from here to Thong Sala for around 100B per person. There’s a dirt road leading from Chalok Lam to Hat Khom, and water taxis are available as well (50B to 100B).

Malibu Bungalows $

( 0 7737 4013; Chalok Lam; bungalows 300-1300B; ) The casual vibe around the large backyard beach (over the lagoon bridge) sets Malibu apart from the other budget bungalows around Chalok Lam. A drink-wielding hut, stationed on the private sandbar, lures guests of every ilk. The cheapest huts are a bit rough around the edges, although the new round bungalow-like concoctions are overpriced.

Mandalai Hotel $$$

( 0 7737 4316; www.mymandalai.com; Chalok Lam; r 2750-5600B; ) Like an ash-white Riyadh from a distant Arabian land, this small boutique hotel quietly towers over the surrounding shantytown of fishermen’s huts. Floor-to-ceiling windows command views of tangerine-coloured fishing boats in the bay, and there’s an intimate wading pool hidden in the inner cloister.

BOTTLE BEACH (HAT KHUAT)

This isolated dune has garnered a reputation as a low-key getaway, and has thus become quite popular. During high season, places can fill up fast so it’s best to try to arrive early. Grab a long-tail taxi boat from Chalok Lam for 50B to 120B (depending on the boat’s occupancy).

Bottle Beach II Bungalows $

( 0 7744 5156; bungalows 350-500B) At the far eastern corner of the beach, this is the spot where penny pinchers can live out their castaway fantasies.

Smile Bungalows $

( 08 1956 3133; smilebeach@hotmail.com; bungalows 400-700B) At the far western corner of the beach, Smile features an assortment of wooden huts that climb up a forested hill. The two-storey bungalows (700B) are our favourite.

THONG NAI PAN

The pair of rounded bays at Thong Nai Pan looks a bit like buttocks; Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai (yai means ‘big’) is the southern half, and Ao Thong Nai Pan Noi (noi means ‘little’) curves just above. These beaches have been increasing in popularity over the last few years, as bamboo bungalows are being razed to make room for elaborate resorts.

Anantara Rasananda Resort $$$

( 0 7723 9555; www.rasananda.com; villas from 5000B; ) Rasananda represents the future of Ko Pha-Ngan. This attempt at five-star luxury is a sweeping sand-side property with a smattering of semi-detached villas – many bedecked with private plunge pools. A savvy mix of modern and traditional săh·lah styling prevails, and new Anantara management means that this high-end stalwart is here to stay.

Dolphin Bungalows $

(bungalows 500-1400B; ) This hidden retreat gives yuppie travellers a chance to rough it in style, while granola-types will soak up every inch of the laid-back charm. Quiet afternoons are spent lounging on the comfy cushions in one of the small pagodas hidden throughout the jungle. Lodging is only available on a first-come basis.

Longtail Beach Resort Bungalows $

( 0 7744 5018; www.longtailbeachresort.com; bungalows 390-1150B; ) Effortlessly adorable, and one of the last remaining batches of beach bungalows in the area, Longtail offers backpackers a taste of Pha-Ngan’s past with its charming thatch-and-bamboo abodes.

East Coast Beaches

Robinson Crusoe, eat your heart out. The east coast is the ultimate hermit hang-out. For the most part you’ll have to hire a boat to get to these beaches, but water taxis are available in Thong Sala and Hat Rin.

THAN SADET & THONG RENG

Mai Pen Rai Bungalows $

( 0 7744 5090; www.thansadet.com; bungalows 600B; ) Mai pen rai is the Thai equivalent of ‘don’t worry, be happy’, which isn’t too surprising since this bay elicits nothing but sedate smiles. Bungalows mingle with Plaa’s next door on the hilly headland, and sport panels of straw weaving with gabled roofs.

Treehouse Bungalows $

(treehouse.kp@googlemail.com; bungalows from 200B) The legendary backpacker hang-out of Ko Chang (the big Ko Chang) has recently set up shop along the secluded waters of Thong Reng. Follow the cheery plastic flowers over the hill from Than Sadet to find uberbasic digs drenched in bright shades of paint.

HAT THIAN

The Sanctuary Bungalows $$

( 08 1271 3614; www.thesanctuarythailand.com; dm 200B, bungalows 450-5450B) If you’re looking for Alex Garland’s mythical beach, this is about as close as it gets. A friendly enclave promoting relaxation, the Sanctuary is an inviting haven offering splendid lodgings while also functioning as a holistic retreat (think yoga classes and detox sessions). Accommodation, in various manifestations of twigs, is scattered around the resort, married to the natural surroundings. You’ll want to Nama-stay forever.

Beam Bungalows Bungalows $

( 0 7927 2854; bungalows 300-700B) Beam is set back from the beach and tucked behind a coconut palm grove. Charming wooden huts have dangling hammocks out front, and big bay windows face the ocean through the swaying palms.

HAT YUAN

Hat Yuan has a few bungalow operations, and is quite secluded as there are no roads connecting this little beach to Hat Rin down the coast.

Barcelona Bungalows $

( 0 7737 5113; bungalows 300-700B) Solid wood huts come in two shades: natural wood or creamy white. They climb up the hill on stilts behind a palm garden and have good vistas and jovial staff.

Eating

Ko Pha-Ngan is no culinary capital, especially since most visitors quickly absorb the lazy lifestyle and wind up eating at their accommodation. Those with an adventurous appetite should check out the island’s centre of local commerce, Thong Sala.

Hat Rin

This bustling 'burb has the largest conglomeration of restaurants and bars on the island, yet most of them are pretty lousy. The infamous Chicken Corner is a popular intersection stocked with several faves such as Mr K Thai Food (Ban Hat Rin; dishes 30-80B) and Mama Schnitzel Offline map (Ban Hat Rin; dishes 40-100B), which promise to cure any case of the munchies, be it noon or midnight.

Lazy House International $$

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(Hat Rin Nai; dishes 90-270B; lunch & dinner) Back in the day, this joint was the owner’s apartment – everyone liked his cooking so much that he decided to turn the place into a restaurant and hang-out spot. Today, Lazy House is easily one of Hat Rin’s best places to veg out in front of a movie with a scrumptious shepherd’s pie.

Little Home Thai $

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(Ban Hat Rin; mains from 40B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) With no design aesthetic whatsoever, Little Home woos the masses with cheap, flavourful Thai grub that’s gobbled up with alacrity among wooden tables and flimsy plastic chairs.

Monna Lisa Italian $$

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(Hat Rin Nai; pizza & pasta from 200B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) The best spot in Hat Rin for a pizza, Monna Lisa is a relatively new operation run by a team of friendly Italians. The mushroom and ham pizza practically knocked our socks off – as did the homemade truffle pasta.

Nic’s International $$

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(Ban Hat Rin; mains 80-280B; dinner) A dizzying realm of polished concrete and coloured pillows, Nic’s – at the back of Hat Rin’s lake – slings tasty pizzas and tapas every evening. Slurp a Singha during the 6pm-to-8pm happy hour.

Lucky Crab Seafood $$

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(Hat Rin Nai; dishes 100-400B; lunch & dinner) Lucky Crab is your best bet for seafood in Hat Rin. Rows of freshly caught creatures are presented nightly atop miniature longtail boats loaded with ice. Once you’ve picked your prey, grab a table inside amid dangling plants and charming stone furnishings.

Om Ganesh Indian $$

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(Hat Rin Nai; dishes 70-190B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Customers meditate over curries, biryani rice, roti and lassis though the local expats joke that every dish tastes the same. Platters start at 350B.

Same Same Burger Burger $$

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(www.same-same.com; Hat Rin Nai; burgers 180-230B; lunch & dinner) Owned by the folks who run the backpacker digs with the same same name, this bright-red burger joint is the same same as McDonald’s (except pricier).

Southern Beaches

On Saturday evenings from 4pm to 10pm, a side street in the eastern part of Thong Sala becomes Walking Street – a bustling pedestrian zone mostly filled with locals hawking their wares to other islanders. There’s plenty on offer, from clothing to food. Be sure to try the delicious red prok with gravy (40B) at Lang Tang – you’ll find it in glass cases next to a large English sign saying ‘Numpanich’.

Night Market Market $

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(Thong Sala; dishes 25-180B; dinner) A heady mix of steam and snacking locals, Thong Sala’s night market is a must for those looking for a dose of culture while nibbling on a low-priced snack. The best place to grab some cheap grub is the stall in the far right corner with a large white banner. Hit up the vendor next door for tasty seafood platters, such as red snapper served over a bed of thick noodles. Banana pancakes and fruit smoothies abound for dessert.

Kaito Japanese $$

(Thong Sala; dishes from 130B; dinner Thu-Mon) Authentic Japanese imports are the speciality here – slurp an Asahi while savouring your tangy seaweed salad and tonkatsu (pork cutlet). The upstairs level has cosy cushion seating while the main sitting area is flanked with manga and pocket-sized Japanese novels.

Mason’s Arms British $$

(Thong Sala; mains 160-350B; lunch & dinner) Suddenly, a clunky structure emerges from the swaying palms; it’s a Tudor-style manse, plucked directly from Stratford-upon-Avon and plunked down in the steamy jungle. This lodge-like lair is one blood pudding away from being an official British colony. The fish ’n’ chips is a local favourite.

Pizza Chiara Italian $$

(Thong Sala; pizzas 180-320B; lunch & dinner) The quintessential chequered tablecloths confirm it (in case you didn’t guess from the name): Pizza Chiara is all about tasty Italian fare. Go for the Pizza Cecco smothered with prosciutto, salami, mushrooms and cotto cheese.

Ando Loco Mexican $

(Ban Tai; mains from 59B; dinner) This outdoor Mexican hang-out looks like an animation cell from a vintage Hanna-Barbera cartoon, with assorted kitschy accoutrements such as papier-mâché cacti. Down a super-sized margarita and show your skills on the beach volleyball court. Ando Loco closes during low season (around September to December).

Other Beaches

Sanctuary health food $$

(Hat Thian; mains from 130B) Forget what you know about health food: the Sanctuary’s restaurant proves that wholesome eats can also be delicious. Enjoy a tasty parade of plates – from Indian pakoras to crunchy Vietnamese spring rolls – as an endless playlist of music (undoubtedly the island’s best) wafts overhead. Don’t forget to wash it all down with a shot of neon-green wheatgrass. Yum!

Cucina Italiana Italian $$

(Jenny’s; Chalok Lam; pizza 180B; dinner) Cucina Italiana has a cult following on Ko Pha-Ngan. The friendly Italian chef is passionate about his food, and creates all of his dishes from scratch. On Thursday and Sunday you can order unlimited toppings on your oven-roasted pizza for only 180B.

Peppercorn Steakhouse $$

(www.peppercornphangan.com; Sri Thanu; mains 160-400; 2-10pm Mon-Sat) Escargot and succulent steaks in a rickety jungle cottage? You bet. Peppercorn may be tucked in the brush away from the sea, but that shouldn’t detract foodies from seeking out one of Pha-Ngan’s best attempts at highbrow international cuisine.

Cookies Salad Thai $$

(Hat Salad; mains from 100B; breakfast, lunch & dinner) Worth tracking down if you’re staying on the west coast, this casual restaurant, perched atop a cliff on the south side of Hat Salad, offers a stunning assortment of Thai treats (don’t miss the Penang curry) and unique smoothies (including a rich nutella swirl). Sadly cookie salads are not on offer.

Drinking

Every month, on the night of the full moon, pilgrims pay tribute to the party gods with trance-like dancing, wild screaming and glow-in-the-dark body paint. The throngs of bucket-sippers and fire twirlers gather on the infamous Sunrise Beach (Hat Rin Nok) and party until the sun replaces the moon in the sky.

A few other noteworthy spots can be found around the island for those seeking something a bit mellower.

Hat Rin

Hat Rin is the beating heart of the legendary Full Moon fun, and the area can get pretty wound up even without the influence of lunar phases. When the moon isn’t lighting up the night sky, partygoers flock to other spots on the island’s south side. See the boxed text onClick here for details. The following party venues flank Hat Rin’s infamous Sunrise Beach from south to north.

Rock Bar, Club

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Great views of the party from the elevated terrace on the far south side of the beach.

Club Paradise Bar, Club

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Paradise basks in its celebrity status as the genesis of the lunar loco -motion.

Drop-In Bar Bar, Club

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This dance shack blasts the chart toppers that we all secretly love. The other nights of the year are equally as boisterous.

Zoom/Vinyl Bar, Club

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An ear-popping trance venue.

Cactus Bar Bar, Club

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Smack in the centre of Hat Rin Nok, Cactus pumps out a healthy mix of old school tunes, hip-hop and R&B.

Sunrise Bar, Club

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A newer spot on the sand where trance beats shake the graffiti-ed walls.

Tommy Bar, Club

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One of Hat Rin’s largest venues lures the masses with black lights and trance music blaring on the sound system. Drinks are dispensed from a large ark-like bar.

Mellow Mountain Bar, Club

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Also called ‘Mushy Mountain’ (you’ll know why when you get there), this trippy hang-out sits at the northern edge of Hat Rin Nok delivering stellar views of the shenanigans below.

Other Beaches

Eagle Pub Bar

(Hat Yao) At the southern end of Hat Yao, this drink-dealing shack, built right into the rock face, is tattooed with the neon graffiti of virtually every person who’s passed out on the lime green patio furniture after too many caipirinhas.

Jam Bar

(Hin Wong; www.thejamphangan.com) It’s DIY live music at this friendly nightspot on the west coast. Saturday nights are open mic, and the rest of the week you’ll usually catch a few locals jamming on their guitars.

Pirates Bar Bar

(Hat Chaophao) This wacky drinkery is a replica of a pirate ship built into the cliffs. When you’re sitting on the deck and the tide is high (and you’ve had a couple drinks), you can almost believe you’re out at sea. These guys host the well-attended Moon Set parties, three days before Hat Rin gets pumpin’ for the Full Moon fun.

Sheesha Bar Bar

(Chalok Lam) The antithesis of grungy Hat Rin, Sheesha Bar swaps buckets of Samsung for designer drinks. The enticing patchwork of beige sandstone and horizontal slats of mahogany fit right in with the arabesque Mandalai Hotel across the street (owned by the same family).

Flip Flop Pharmacy Bar

(Thong Nai Pan) This open-air bar on the sands of Thong Nai Pan is the area’s preferred hang-out spot.

Amsterdam Bar

(Ao Plaay Laem) Near Hat Chaophao on the west coast, Amsterdam attracts tourists and locals from all over the island, who are looking for a chill spot to watch the sunset.

Information

Dangers & Annoyances

Some of your fondest vacation memories may be forged on Ko Pha-Ngan; just be mindful of the following situations that can seriously tarnish your experience on this hot-blooded jungle island.

Drugs You’re relaxing on the beach when suddenly a local walks up and offers you some local herb at a ridiculously low price. ‘No thanks,’ you say, knowing that the penalties for drug use in Thailand are fierce. But the vendor drops his price even more and practically offers you the weed for free. Too good to be true? Obviously. As soon as you take a toke, the seller rats you out to the cops and you’re whisked away to the local prison where you must pay a wallet-busting fine. This type of scenario happens all the time on Ko Pha-Ngan so it’s best to avoid the call of the ganja.

Here’s another important thing to remember: your travel insurance does not cover any drug-related injury or treatment. Drug-related freak-outs do happen – we’ve heard first-hand accounts of partiers slipping into extended periods of delirium. Suan Saranrom (Garden of Joys) Psychiatric Hospital in Surat Thani has to take on extra staff during full-moon periods to handle the number of fa·ràng who freak out on magic mushrooms, acid or other abundantly available hallucinogens.

Women travellers Female travellers should be extra careful when partying on the island. We’ve received many reports about drug- and alcohol-related rape (and these situations are not limited to Full Moon Parties). Another disturbing problem is the unscrupulous behaviour of some of the local motorcycle taxi drivers. Several complaints have been filed about drivers groping female passengers; there are even reports of severe sexual assaults.

Motorcycles Ko Pha-Ngan has more motorcycle accidents than injuries incurred from Full Moon tomfoolery. Nowadays there’s a system of paved roads, but much of it is a labyrinth of rutty dirt-and-mud paths. The island is also very hilly, and even if the road is paved, it can be too difficult for most to take on. The very steep road to Hat Rin is a perfect case in point. The island now has a special ambulance that trolls the island helping injured bikers.

Emergency

Main police station ( 0 7737 7114, 191) Located about 2km north of Thong Sala. The police station in Hat Rin (near Hat Rin school) will not let you file a report; to do so you must go to Thong Sala. Local police have been known to charge 200B to file a report. Do not pay this – it should be free. Note that if you are arrested you do have the right to an embassy phone call; you do not have to agree to accept the ‘interpreter’ you are offered.

Internet Access

Hat Rin and Thong Sala are the main centres of internet activity, but every beach with development now offers access. Rates are generally 2B per minute, with a 10B to 20B minimum and discounts if you stay on for more than an hour. Places offering a rate of 1B per minute usually have turtle-speed connections.

Laundry

If you got fluorescent body paint on your clothes during your full-moon romp, don’t bother sending them to the cleaners – the paint will never come out. Trust us, we tried. For your other washing needs, there are heaps of places that will gladly wash your clothes. Prices hover around 40B per kilo, and express cleanings shouldn’t be more than 60B per kilo.

Medical Services

Medical services can be a little crooked in Ko Pha-Ngan – expect unstable prices and underqualified doctors. Many clinics charge a 3000B entrance fee before treatment. Serious medical issues should be dealt with on nearby Ko Samui.

Ko Pha-Ngan Hospital ( 0 7737 7034; Thong Sala; 24hr) About 2.5km north of Thong Sala; offers 24-hour emergency services.

Money

Thong Sala, Ko Pha-Ngan’s financial ‘capital’, has plenty of banks, currency converters and several Western Union offices. Hat Rin has numerous ATMs and a couple of banks at the pier. There are also ATMs in Hat Yao, Chaloklum and Thong Nai Pan.

Post

Main post office ( 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) In Thong Sala; there’s a smaller office right near the pier in Hat Rin.

Tourist information

There are no government-run Tourist Authority of Thailand (TAT) offices on Ko Pha-Ngan, instead tourists get their information from local travel agencies and brochures. Most agencies are clumped around Hat Rin and Thong Sala. Agents take a small commission on each sale, but collusion keeps prices relatively stable and standardised. Choose an agent you trust if you are spending a lot of money – faulty bookings do happen on Ko Pha-Ngan, especially since the island does not have a unit of tourist police.

Several mini-magazines also offer comprehensive information about the island’s accommodation, restaurants, activities and Full Moon Parties. Our favourite option is the pocket-sized Phangan Info (www.phangan.info).

Backpackers Information Centre ( 0 7737 5535; www.backpackersthailand.com; Hat Rin) A must for travellers looking to book high-quality tours (diving, live-aboards, jungle safaris etc) and transport. Not just for backpackers, it’s an expat-run travel agency that offers peace of mind with every purchase – travellers are provided with the mobile phone number of the owners should any problems arise. It also runs the Crystal Dive shop next door.

Websites

Backpackers Thailand (www.backpackersthailand.com) Everything you need to know about Ko Pha-Ngan, from booking accommodation to finding out the Full Moon schedule. Doubles as a vast resource for the whole country as well.

Getting There & Away

As always, the cost and departure times are subject to change. Rough waves are known to cancel ferries between the months of October and December.

Bangkok, Hua Hin & Chumphon

The Lomprayah and Seatran Discovery service has bus-boat combination packages that depart from Bangkok and pass through Hua Hin and Chumphon. It is also quite hassle-free to take the train from Bangkok to Chumphon and switch to a ferry service (it works out to be about the same price and the train is comfier if you get a couchette). Travellers can also opt for the slightly cheaper government bus to Bangkok. For additional information about travelling through Chumphon Click here.