Fruit Crisp, with Apple or Nearly Anything Else

Crisps are the ultimate year-round dessert, since the only thing that changes is the fruit. In the fall, use apples and pears (maybe with a handful of fresh cranberries); in winter, try pineapple; in the spring, nothing beats rhubarb (you might want a little more sugar in this case), especially combined with strawberries; and in the summer, stone fruits and berries rule, alone or in combination.

6 cups sliced or chopped fruit (2 to 3 pounds), trimmed, peeled, pitted, and cored as necessary

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

½ cup brown sugar, or to taste

5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into bits, plus butter for greasing the pan

½ cup rolled oats

½ cup whole wheat flour

¼ cup chopped walnuts or pecans

¼ cup shredded unsweetened coconut (optional)

Pinch salt

1 Heat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl, gently toss the fruit with half the cinnamon (if you’re using it) and spread it in a lightly buttered 8-inch square or 9-inch round baking pan.

2 Combine all the other ingredients, including the remaining cinnamon, in the container of a food processor. Pulse a few times, then process a few seconds more until everything is well incorporated but not uniform; it should look crumbly. To mix the ingredients by hand, soften the butter slightly, toss together the dry ingredients, then work in the butter with your fingertips, a pastry blender, or a fork.

3 Crumble the topping over the fruit and bake 30 to 40 minutes, until the topping is browned and the fruit is tender and bubbling. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

Roasted Fruit, Sweet or Savory: Without a crust this recipe becomes an easy fruit compote. Omit everything in the recipe, except the fruit, 2 tablespoons of the butter, and the salt. Then melt the butter along with the salt and whatever seasonings you choose. To go sweet, add some or all of the brown sugar if you like, and warm spices like the cinnamon; or use ½ teaspoon ground cardamom, nutmeg, or cloves; or tuck a split vanilla bean into the mixture. To take the fruit in a more savory direction, skip the sugar, increase the salt, and try ground cumin, cayenne, caraway, or even a pinch of saffron. Toss the fruit with the butter mixture, spread on the prepared pan, and cook as above, stirring once or twice.