FORMER INHABITANTS; AND WINTER
VISITORS.
I weathered some merry snow-storms, and spent some cheerful winter
evenings by my fireside, while the snow whirled wildly without, and
even the hooting of the owl was hushed. For many weeks I met no one
in my walks but those who came occasionally to cut wood and sled it
to the village. The elements, however, abetted me in making a path
through the deepest snow in the woods, for when I had once gone
through the wind blew the oak leaves into my tracks, where they
lodged, and by absorbing the rays of the sun melted the snow, and
so not only made a my bed for my feet, but in the night their dark
line was my guide. For human society I was obliged to conjure up
the former occupants of these woods. Within the memory of many of
my townsmen the road near which my house stands resounded with the
laugh and gossip of inhabitants, and the woods which border it were
notched and dotted here and there with their little gardens and
dwellings, though it was then much more shut in by the forest than
now. In some places, within my own remembrance, the pines would
scrape both sides of a chaise at once, and women and children who
were compelled to go this way to Lincoln alone and on foot did it
with fear, and often ran a good part of the distance. Though mainly
but a humble route to neighboring villages, or for the woodman's
team, it once amused the traveller more than now by its variety,
and lingered longer in his memory. Where now firm open fields
stretch from the village to the woods, it then ran through a maple
swamp on a foundation of logs, the remnants of which, doubtless,
still underlie the present dusty highway, from the Stratton, now
the Alms-House, Farm, to Brister's Hill. East of my bean-field,
across the road, lived Cato Ingraham, slave of Duncan Ingraham,
Esquire, gentleman, of Concord village, who built his slave a
house, and gave him permission to live in Walden Woods;—Cato, not
Uticensis, but Concordiensis. Some say that he was a Guinea Negro.
There are a few who remember his little patch among the walnuts,
which he let row up till he should be old and need them; but a
younger and whiter speculator got them at last. He too, however,
occupies an equally narrow house at present. Cato's
half-obliterated cellar-hole still remains, though known to few,
being concealed from the traveller by a fringe of pines. It is now
filled with the smooth sumach (Rhus glabra), and one of the
earliest species of goldenrod (Solidago stricta) grows there
luxuriantly. Here, by the very corner of my field, still nearer to
town, Zilpha, a colored woman, had her little house, where she spun
linen for the townsfolk, making the Walden Woods ring with her
shrill singing, for she had a loud and notable voice. At length, in
the war of 1812, her dwelling was set on fire by English soldiers,
prisoners on parole, when she was away, and her cat and dog and
hens were all burned up together. She led a hard life, and somewhat
inhumane. One old frequenter of these woods remembers, that as he
passed her house one noon he heard her muttering to herself over
her gurgling pot—"Ye are all bones, bones!" I have seen bricks amid
the oak copse there. Down the road, on the right hand, on Brister's
Hill, lived Brister Freeman, "a handy Negro," slave of Squire
Cummings once-there where grow still the apple trees which Brister
planted and tended; large old trees now, but their fruit still wild
and ciderish to my taste. Not long since I read his epi taph in the
old Lincoln burying-ground, a little on one side, near the unmarked
graves of some British grenadiers who fell in the retreat from
Concord—where he is styled "Sippio Brister"—Scipio Africanus he had
some title to be called—"a man of color," as if he were discolored.
It also told me, with staring emphasis, when he died; which was but
an indirect way of informing me that he ever lived. With him dwelt
Fenda, his hospitable wife, who told fortunes, yet
pleasantly-large, round, and black, blacker than any of the
children of night, such a dusky orb as never rose on Concord before
or since. Farther down the hill, on the left, on the old road in
the woods, are marks of some homestead of the Stratton family;
whose orchard once covered all the slope of Brister's Hill, but was
long since killed out by pitch pines, excepting a few stumps, whose
old roots furnish still the wild stocks of many a thrifty village
tree. Nearer yet to town, you come to Breed's location, on the
other side of the way, just on the edge of the wood; ground famous
for the pranks of a demon not distinctly named in old mythology,
who has acted a prominent and astounding part in our New England
life, and deserves, as much as any mythological character, to have
his biography written one day; who first comes in the guise of a
friend or hired man, and then robs and murders the whole
family—New-England Rum. But history must not yet tell the tragedies
enacted here; let time intervene in some measure to assuage and
lend an azure tint to them. Here the most indistinct and dubious
tradition says that once a tavern stood; the well the same, which
tempered the traveller's beverage and refreshed his steed. Here
then men saluted one another, and heard and told the news, and went
their ways again. Breed's hut was standing only a dozen years ago,
though it had long been unoccupied. It was about the size of mine.
It was set on fire by mischievous boys, one Election night, if I do
not mistake. I lived on the edge of the village then, and had just
lost myself over Davenant's "Gondibert," that winter that I labored
with a lethargy—which, by the way, I never knew whether to regard
as a family complaint, having an uncle who goes to sleep shaving
himself, and is obliged to sprout potatoes in a cellar Sundays, in
order to keep awake and keep the Sabbath, or as the consequence of
my attempt to read Chalmers' collection of English poetry without
skipping. It fairly overcame my Nervii. I had just sunk my head on
this when the bells rung fire, and in hot haste the engines rolled
that way, led by a straggling troop of men and boys, and I among
the foremost, for I had leaped the brook. We thought it was far
south over the woods—we who had run to fires before—barn, shop, or
dwelling-house, or all together. "It's Baker's barn," cried one.
"It is the Codman place," affirmed another. And then fresh sparks
went up above the wood, as if the roof fell in, and we all shouted
"Concord to the rescue!" Wagons shot past with furious speed and
crushing loads, bearing, perchance, among the rest, the agent of
the Insurance Company, who was bound to go however far; and ever
and anon the engine bell tinkled behind, more slow and sure; and
rearmost of all, as it was afterward whispered, came they who set
the fire and gave the alarm. Thus we kept on like true idealists,
rejecting the evidence of our senses, until at a turn in the road
we heard the crackling and actually felt the heat of the fire from
over the wall, and realized, alas! that we were there. The very
nearness of the fire but cooled our ardor. At first we thought to
throw a frog-pond on to it; but concluded to let it burn, it was so
far gone and so worthless. So we stood round our engine, jostled
one another, expressed our sentiments through speaking-trumpets, or
in lower tone referred to the great conflagrations which the world
has witnessed, including Bascom's shop, and, between ourselves, we
thought that, were we there in season with our "tub," and a full
frog-pond by, we could turn that threatened last and universal one
into another flood. We finally retreated without doing any
mischief—returned to sleep and "Gondibert." But as for "Gondibert,"
I would except that passage in the preface about wit being the
soul's powder—"but most of mankind are strangers to wit, as Indians
are to powder." It chanced that I walked that way across the fields
the following night, about the same hour, and hearing a low moaning
at this spot, I drew near in the dark, and discovered the only
survivor of the family that I know, the heir of both its virtues
and its vices, who alone was interested in this burning, lying on
his stomach and looking over the cellar wall at the still
smouldering cinders beneath, muttering to himself, as is his wont.
He had been working far off in the river mead ows all day, and had
improved the first moments that he could call his own to visit the
home of his fathers and his youth. He gazed into the cellar from
all sides and points of view by turns, always lying down to it, as
if there was some treasure, which he remembered, concealed between
the stones, where there was absolutely nothing but a heap of bricks
and ashes. The house being gone, he looked at what there was left.
He was soothed by the sympathy which my mere presence, implied, and
showed me, as well as the darkness permitted, where the well was
covered up; which, thank Heaven, could never be burned; and he
groped long about the wall to find the well-sweep which his father
had cut and mounted, feeling for the iron hook or staple by which a
burden had been fastened to the heavy end—all that he could now
cling to—to convince me that it was no common "rider." I felt it,
and still remark it almost daily in my walks, for by it hangs the
history of a family. Once more, on the left, where are seen the
well and lilac bushes by the wall, in the now open field, lived
Nutting and Le Grosse. But to return toward Lincoln. Farther in the
woods than any of these, where the road approaches nearest to the
pond, Wyman the potter squatted, and furnished his townsmen with
earthenware, and left descendants to succeed him. Neither were they
rich in worldly goods, holding the land by sufferance while they
lived; and there often the sheriff came in vain to collect the
taxes, and "attached a chip," for form's sake, as I have read in
his accounts, there being nothing else that he could lay his hands
on. One day in midsummer, when I was hoeing, a man who was carrying
a load of pottery to market stopped his horse against my field and
inquired concerning Wyman the younger. He had long ago bought a
potter's wheel of him, and wished to know what had become of him. I
had read of the potter's clay and wheel in Scripture, but it had
never occurred to me that the pots we use were not such as had come
down unbroken from those days, or grown on trees like gourds
somewhere, and I was pleased to hear that so fictile an art was
ever practiced in my neighborhood. The last inhabitant of these
woods before me was an Irishman, Hugh Quoil (if I have spelt his
name with coil enough), who occupied Wyman's tenement—Col. Quoil,
he was called. Rumor said that he had been a soldier at Water loo.
If he had lived I should have made him fight his battles over
again. His trade here was that of a ditcher. Napoleon went to St.
Helena; Quoil came to Walden Woods. All I know of him is tragic. He
was a man of manners, like one who had seen the world, and was
capable of more civil speech than you could well attend to. He wore
a greatcoat in midsummer, being affected with the trembling
delirium, and his face was the color of carmine. He died in the
road at the foot of Brister's Hill shortly after I came to the
woods, so that I have not remembered him as a neighbor. Before his
house was pulled down, when his comrades avoided it as "an unlucky
castle," I visited it. There lay his old clothes curled up by use,
as if they were himself, upon his raised plank bed. His pipe lay
broken on the hearth, instead of a bowl broken at the fountain. The
last could never have been the symbol of his death, for he
confessed to me that, though he had heard of Brister's Spring, he
had never seen it; and soiled cards, kings of diamonds, spades, and
hearts, were scattered over the floor. One black chicken which the
administrator could not catch, black as night and as silent, not
even croaking, awaiting Reynard, still went to roost in the next
apart ment. In the rear there was the dim outline of a garden,
which had been planted but had never received its first hoeing,
owing to those terrible shaking fits, though it was now harvest
time. It was overrun with Roman wormwood and beggar-ticks, which
last stuck to my clothes for all fruit. The skin of a woodchuck was
freshly stretched upon the back of the house, a trophy of his last
Waterloo; but no warm cap or mittens would he want more. Now only a
dent in the earth marks the site of these dwellings, with buried
cellar stones, and strawberries, raspberries, thimbleberries,
hazel-bushes, and sumachs growing in the sunny sward there; some
pitch pine or gnarled oak occupies what was the chimney nook, and a
sweet-scented black birch, perhaps, waves where the door-stone was.
Sometimes the well dent is visible, where once a spring oozed; now
dry and tearless grass; or it was covered deepnnot to be discovered
till some late daynwith a flat stone under the sod, when the last
of the race departed. What a sorrowful act must that benthe
covering up of wells! coincident with the opening of wells of
tears. These cellar dents, like deserted fox burrows, old holes,
are all that is left where once were the stir and bustle of hu man
life, and "fate, free will, foreknowledge absolute," in some form
and dialect or other were by turns discussed. But all I can learn
of their conclusions amounts to just this, that "Cato and Brister
pulled wool"; which is about as edifying as the history of more
famous schools of philosophy. Still grows the vivacious lilac a
generation after the door and lintel and the sill are gone,
unfolding its sweet-scented flowers each spring, to be plucked by
the musing traveller; planted and tended once by children's hands,
his front-yard plots—now standing by wallsides in retired pastures,
and giving place to newrising forests;—the last of that stirp, sole
survivor of that family. Little did the dusky children think that
the puny slip with its two eyes only, which they stuck in the
ground in the shadow of the house and daily watered, would root
itself so, and outlive them, and house itself in the rear that
shaded it, and grown man's garden and orchard, and tell their story
faintly to the lone wanderer a half-century after they had grown up
and died—blossoming as fair, and smelling as sweet, as in that
first spring. I mark its still tender, civil, cheerful lilac
colors. But this small village, germ of something more, why did it
fail while Concord keeps its ground? Were there no natural
advantages—no water privileges, forsooth? Ay, the deep Walden Pond
and cool Brister's Spring—privilege to drink long and healthy
draughts at these, all unimproved by these men but to dilute their
glass. They were universally a thirsty race. Might not the basket,
stable-broom, mat-making, corn-parching, linen-spinning, and
pottery business have thrived here, making the wilderness to
blossom like the rose, and a numerous posterity have inherited the
land of their fathers? The sterile soil would at least have been
proof against a lowland degeneracy. Alas! how little does the
memory of these human inhabitants enhance the beauty of the
landscape! Again, perhaps, Nature will try, with me for a first
settler, and my house raised last spring to be the oldest in the
hamlet. I am not aware that any man has ever built on the spot
which I occupy. Deliver me from a city built on the site of a more
ancient city, whose materials are ruins, whose gardens cemeteries.
The soil is blanched and accursed there, and before that becomes
necessary the earth itself will be destroyed. With such
reminiscences I repeopled the woods and lulled myself asleep.
* * *
At this season I seldom had a visitor. When the snow lay deepest no
wanderer ventured near my house for a week or fortnight at a time,
but there I lived as snug as a meadow mouse, or as cattle and
poultry which are said to have survived for a long time buried in
drifts, even without food; or like that early settler's family in
the town of Sutton, in this State, whose cottage was completely
covered by the great snow of 1717 when he was absent, and an Indian
found it only by the hole which the chimney's breath made in the
drift, and so relieved the family. But no friendly Indian concerned
himself about me; nor needed he, for the master of the house was at
home. The Great Snow! How cheerful it is to hear of! When the
farmers could not get to the woods and swamps with their teams, and
were obliged to cut down the shade trees before their houses, and,
when the crust was harder, cut off the trees in the swamps, ten
feet from the ground, as it appeared the next spring. In the
deepest snows, the path which I used from the highway to my house,
about half a mile long, might have been represented by a meandering
dotted line, with wide intervals between the dots. For a week of
even weather I took exactly the same number of steps, and of the
same length, coming and going, stepping deliberately and with the
precision of a pair of dividers in my own deep tracks—to such
routine the winter reduces us—yet often they were filled with
heaven's own blue. But no weather interfered fatally with my walks,
or rather my going abroad, for I frequently tramped eight or ten
miles through the deepest snow to keep an appointment with a beech
tree, or a yellow birch, or an old acquaintance among the pines;
when the ice and snow causing their limbs to droop, and so
sharpening their tops, had changed the pines into fir trees; wading
to the tops of the highest bills when the show was nearly two feet
deep on a level, and shaking down another snow-storm on my head at
every step; or sometimes creeping and floundering thither on my
hands and knees, when the hunters had gone into winter quarters.
One afternoon I amused myself by watching a barred owl (Strix
nebulosa) sitting on one of the lower dead limbs of a white pine,
close to the trunk, in broad daylight, I standing within a rod of
him. He could hear me when I moved and cronched the snow with my
feet, but could not plainly see me. When I made most noise he would
stretch out his neck, and erect his neck feathers, and open his
eyes wide; but their lids soon fell again, and he began to nod. I
too felt a slumberous influence after watching him half an hour, as
he sat thus with his eyes half open, like a cat, winged brother of
the cat. There was only a narrow slit left between their lids, by
which be preserved a pennisular relation to me; thus, with
half-shut eyes, looking out from the land of dreams, and
endeavoring to realize me, vague object or mote that interrupted
his visions. At length, on some louder noise or my nearer approach,
he would grow uneasy and sluggishly turn about on his perch, as if
impatient at having his dreams disturbed; and when he launched
himself off and flapped through the pines, spreading his wings to
unexpected breadth, I could not hear the slightest sound from them.
Thus, guided amid the pine boughs rather by a delicate sense of
their neighborhood than by sight, feeling his twilight way, as it
were, with his sensitive pinions, he found a new perch, where he
might in peace await the dawning of his day. As I walked over the
long causeway made for the railroad through the meadows, I
encountered many a blustering and nipping wind, for nowhere has it
freer play; and when the frost had smitten me on one cheek, heathen
as I was, I turned to it the other also. Nor was it much better by
the carriage road from Brister's Hill. For I came to town still,
like a friendly Indian, when the contents of the broad open fields
were all piled up between the walls of the Walden road, and half an
hour sufficed to obliterate the tracks of the last traveller. And
when I returned new drifts would have formed, through which I
floundered, where the busy northwest wind had been depositing the
powdery snow round a sharp angle in the road, and not a rabbit's
track, nor even the fine print, the small type, of a meadow mouse
was to be seen. Yet I rarely failed to find, even in midwinter,
some warm and springly swamp where the grass and the skunk-cabbage
still put forth with perennial verdure, and some hardier bird
occasionally awaited the return of spring. Sometimes,
notwithstanding the snow, when I returned from my walk at evening I
crossed the deep tracks of a woodchopper leading from my door, and
found his pile of whit tlings on the hearth, and my house filled
with the odor of his pipe. Or on a Sunday afternoon, if I chanced
to be at home, I heard the cronching of the snow made by the step
of a longheaded farmer, who from far through the woods sought my
house, to have a social "crack"; one of the few of his vocation who
are "men on their farms"; who donned a frock instead of a
professor's gown, and is as ready to extract the moral out of
church or state as to haul a load of manure from his barn-yard. We
talked of rude and simple times, when men sat about large fires in
cold, bracing weather, with clear heads; and when other dessert
failed, we tried our teeth on many a nut which wise squirrels have
long since abandoned, for those which have the thickest shells are
commonly empty. The one who came from farthest to my lodge, through
deepest snows and most dismal tempests, was a poet. A farmer, a
hunter, a soldier, a reporter, even a philosopher, may be daunted;
but nothing can deter a poet, for he is actuated by pure love. Who
can predict his comings and goings? His business calls him out at
all hours, even when doctors sleep. We made that small house ring
with boisterous mirth and resound with the murmur of much sober
talk, making amends then to Walden vale for the long silences.
Broadway was still and deserted in comparison. At suitable
intervals there were regular salutes of laughter, which might have
been referred indifferently to the last-uttered or the forthcoming
jest. We made many a "bran new" theory of life over a thin dish of
gruel, which combined the advantages of conviviality with the
clear-headedness which philosophy requires. I should not forget
that during my last winter at the pond there was another welcome
visitor, who at one time came through the village, through snow and
rain and darkness, till he saw my lamp through the trees, and
shared with me some long winter evenings. One of the last of the
philosophers—Connecticut gave him to the world—he peddled first her
wares, afterwards, as he declares, his brains. These he peddles
still, prompting God and disgracing man, bearing for fruit his
brain only, like the nut its kernel. I think that he must be the
man of the most faith of any alive. His words and attitude always
suppose a better state of things than other men are acquainted
with, and he will be the last man to be disappointed as the ages
revolve. He has no venture in the present. But though comparatively
disregarded now, when his day comes, laws unsuspected by most will
take effect, and masters of families and rulers will come to him
for advice. "How blind that cannot see serenity!" A true friend of
man; almost the only friend of human progress. An Old Mortality,
say rather an Immortality, with unwearied patience and faith making
plain the image engraven in men's bodies, the God of whom they are
but defaced and leaning monuments. With his hospitable intellect he
embraces children, beggars, insane, and scholars, and entertains
the thought of all, adding to it commonly some breadth and
elegance. I think that he should keep a caravansary on the world's
highway, where philosophers of all nations might put up, and on his
sign should be printed, "Entertainment for man, but not for his
beast. Enter ye that have leisure and a quiet mind, who earnestly
seek the right road." He is perhaps the sanest man and has the
fewest crotchets of any I chance to know; the same yesterday and
tomorrow. Of yore we had sauntered and talked, and effectually put
the world behind us; for he was pledged to no institu tion in it,
freeborn, ingenuus. Whichever way we turned, it seemed that the
heavens and the earth had met together, since he enhanced the
beauty of the landscape. A blue-robed man, whose fittest roof is
the overarching sky which reflects his serenity. I do not see how
he can ever die; Nature cannot spare him. Having each some shingles
of thought well dried, we sat and whittled them, trying our knives,
and admiring the clear yellowish grain of the pumpkin pine. We
waded so gently and reverently, or we pulled together so smoothly,
that the fishes of thought were not seared from the stream, nor
feared any angler on the bank, but came and went grandly, like the
clouds which float through the western sky, and the mother-o'-pearl
flocks which sometimes form and dissolve there. There we worked,
revising mythology, rounding a fable here and there, and building
castles in the air for which earth offered no worthy foundation.
Great Looker! Great Expecter! to converse with whom was a New
England Night's Entertainment. Ah! such discourse we had, hermit
and philosopher, and the old settler I have spoken of—we three—it
expanded and racked my little house; I should not dare to say how
many pounds' weight there was above the atmospheric pressure on
every circular inch; it opened its seams so that they had to be
calked with much dulness thereafter to stop the consequent
leak;—but I had enough of that kind of oakum already picked. There
was one other with whom I had "solid seasons," long to be
remembered, at his house in the village, and who looked in upon me
from time to time; but I had no more for society there. There too,
as everywhere, I sometimes expected the Visitor who never comes.
The Vishnu Purana says, "The house-holder is to remain at eventide
in his courtyard as long as it takes to milk a cow, or longer if he
pleases, to await the arrival of a guest." I often performed this
duty of hospitality, waited long enough to milk a whole herd of
cows, but did not see the man approaching from the town.