chapter thirteen
Riding in the Freon capsule that was Frank
DeAntoni’s Lincoln, looking through glass at sawgrass touching
April sky, I listened to Tomlinson say from the backseat, “If an
infinite number of drunken rednecks pull shotguns from the rack and
shoot an infinite number of road signs, I hate to say it, but, one
day those bastards are bound to produce a very good haiku in
Braille. What’re the odds, Doc? It’s gotta happen, man.”
DeAntoni didn’t much like Tomlinson. He made it
obvious, ignoring him when he could, shaking his head in reply to
questions, rolling his eyes when Tomlinson made one of his
eccentric observations.
DeAntoni rolled his eyes now, saying, “As if some
blind dude is gonna roam around down here feeling for road signs,
searching for something to read.” Then after a few more seconds,
thinking about it: “Like they could even find the fucking signs way
out here in this godforsaken swamp. How stupid can you get, Mac?
They’d need a ladder to even reach ’em.”
DeAntoni was not a man whose life was complicated
by an overactive imagination.
At a Mobil station, intersection of 951 and
Rattlesnake Hammock Road, east of Naples, DeAntoni pulled me aside
and whispered, “Jesus Christ, next time that weirdo takes off those
John Lennon shades of his, check out the pupils. I think he might
have been smoking marijuana.”
“Really?” I replied. “Using drugs this early in the
morning. Hum-m-m-m. I guess it’s possible.”
“And wearing that crazy Hawaiian dress. I
practically had to threaten him to make him change into
shorts.”
Actually, Tomlinson had been wearing his
black-and-orange sarong, swami-style, like a pair of baggy pants.
He knew a couple of dozen ways to tie the things, depending on the
occasion. I’d had to issue a threat or two myself. Nothing to do
with his sarongs, which I’ve become used to. If he didn’t get rid
of Karlita, though, he wasn’t going anywhere with me.
Which is why he informed Karlita that she couldn’t
accompany us.
DeAntoni said, “What I don’t understand is, you two
guys are pals. But you’re like exact opposites.”
I said, “I know, I know. It’s been worrying me for
years.”
I think DeAntoni decided that the best way to keep
Tomlinson quiet was to fill the silence by asking me lots of
questions.
Speeding east on the Tamiami Trail, the remote
two-lane that crosses Florida’s interior, all cypress swamp and
grass savanna, I explained to Frank that the sawgrass growing out
there, ten feet high, got its name from its three-edged, serrated
blades.
“Sawgrass is deceptive,” Tomlinson added. “Looks
like Kansas wheat, but it’ll cut you like a razor.”
Referring to the thatched huts along the road, and
state road signs that read INDIAN VILLAGE AHEAD, I had to think
back to the Florida history I’d learned in high school.
Trouble was, I wasn’t certain the information was
still accurate.
I told DeAntoni that ’Glades Indians were derived
from mixed bands of Creek and Muskogees, on the run in the late
1700s, who’d sought safe haven in Florida. The earliest group,
Mikasuki-speaking Creeks, became known as the Miccosukee, then
Trail Miccosukee, as in Tamiami Trail.
Another group, mostly farmers, were called the
Cimar rons, which is Spanish slang for runaway or wild
people—possibly because of the runaway slaves who sometimes lived
among them. Cimarron became Simaloni in the Miccosukee language,
then Seminole.
I told him, “I’m not sure if that information’s up
to date. Tomlinson’s an expert on indigenous cultures, Native
American history. He’s like an encyclopedia—literally. You should
be asking him.”
DeAntoni shrugged, ignoring the suggestion, then
changed the subject to wrestling.
I could see Tomlinson in the rearview mirror,
chuckling, not the least bit offended, enjoying the man, his
quirkiness.
We drove past Monroe Station and the dirt road
turnoff to Pinecrest, then into the Big Cypress Preserve. At Fifty
Mile Bend, in the shadows of tunneling cypress, we approached the
cottage that is Clyde Butcher’s photo gallery. Tomlinson said why
not stop in, say hello, take a look at some of the great man’s
black-and-white masterpieces, Clyde was a hiking buddy of
his.
DeAntoni replied sarcastically, “You got a swamp
hermit buddy who’s an artsy-fartsy photographer? That’s a hell of a
surprise,” and kept driving.
We didn’t slow again until we entered the
Miccosukee Indian Reservation east of Forty Mile Bend—beige
administrative buildings among pole huts, airboats, brown-on-white
Ford Miccosukee Police cars—then the Florida deco tourist
attractions, Frog City and Cooperstown.
At the intersection of the Tamiami Trail and 997,
DeAntoni got his first look at the Miccosukee Hotel and Casino. It
was in the middle of nowhere, elevated above the river of grass,
fifteen or twenty stories high.
The casino was a massive stucco geometric on the
Everglades plain, abrupt as a volcanic peak, painted beige, blue,
Navajo red. It had a parking lot the size of a metropolitan
airport. The lot was already half full at a little before noon on
this Saturday. Lots of charter buses and pickup trucks.
“GAMING AND ENTERTAINMENT,” DeAntoni said, reading
the marquee. “Now, that’s one place I wouldn’t mind
stopping. Back in New York, I’d drive to Cornwall—the Mo hawks got
a pretty nice casino there. Best one’s in Connecticut, though, a
place called Foxwood Resort, run by the Pequots. You think this
Miccosukee place is big? This place ain’t nothing compared to
Foxwood. It’s the biggest casino in the world. They take in one
billion dollars a year.”
Tomlinson whistled, then said, “Far out, man. A
billion? You’ve got to be exaggerating.”
“Nope. I read it in the Times and the
Post, too.”
“I knew it was big, but not that big.”
“Bigger than anything in Vegas. A clean one billion
a year, and they’re proud of it—which I don’t blame ’em for. Man,
they got three or four hotels, golf courses, more than twenty
restaurants, everything open twenty-four hours a day, and the state
doesn’t have a damn thing to do with it. No say at all. Not even
taxes, ’cause they’re Indians. They even got their own police
department.”
He glanced away from the steering wheel to speak to
me. “Why is that? Why do Indians get to open casinos, but regular
people can’t? I never checked into it.”
“I’m not sure myself.” I looked over my shoulder.
“Let’s ask the expert.”
Still smiling, Tomlinson answered, “I’m allowed to
speak? I don’t want to irritate our driver.”
DeAntoni said, “Your weird talk, that’s the only
thing that drives me nuts. Gambling and casinos—that’s something I
like. If you got something to say.”
Tomlinson told him, “I know something about it. I
have lots of Skin friends—that’s what they call themselves. As in
Redskins. The AIM people, man, I was really into their act,
occupying Wounded Knee and Alcatraz. The American Indian Movement.
The best of their warriors are still out there, fighting their
asses off. The right to run gaming businesses, casinos, that’s all
part of the movement.”
He said, “The Skins call it the New
Buffalo—casinos, I mean. Tribes used to depend on the buffalo for
survival. Get it? Gaming houses are what they depend on now. It’s
become the same thing. A way for the tribes, their families and
children, to live, stay healthy.”
I turned and gave Tomlinson a warning look—he tends
to ramble and this was not a good time to ramble. But he’s also
quick to catch on. So he straightened immediately and gave us the
concise version. He explained that Indian reservations are on
federal trust land, governed only by federal or tribal laws. States
have no jurisdiction over Indian reservations, unless jurisdiction
is specifically authorized by Congress.
In this way, reservations are actually sovereign
nations. Unless prohibited by federal law, each Indian nation can
decide for itself what gaming may be conducted. Gaming, not
gambling, which is considered a dirty word by those
involved.
Tomlinson said, “Back in the nineteen eighties,
when the state of California tried to screw over the Cabazon tribe,
that’s what really got the ball rolling. There were less than
seventy people left in that little tribe, almost extinct. This
little ghost band, out there on the rez, not bothering
anybody.
“So what happens? State bureaucrats tell them they
can’t play bingo on their own rez. Old ladies sitting around
smoking, watching Ping-Pong balls fly up the chute. Their thrill
for the week. But then the U.S. Supreme Court said, screw you,
California, individual states have no say over Indian land. Which
is when the idea for Indian casinos started booming.”
But that wasn’t the end of the controversy,
Tomlinson added. Concerned about the Cabazon decision, Congress
passed the Indian Gaming Regulatory Act of 1988 (IGRA), attempting
to balance the interest between the state and tribal
sovereignty.
Tomlinson said, “Roughly, what that law says is,
Indian tribes have the exclusive right to regulate gaming activity
on Indian lands. The state can’t say crap unless all forms
of gambling are prohibited statewide. For instance, here in
Florida, we’ve got a bunch of state lotteries to generate income
because we’ve got no state income tax. So IGRA says it’s
hypocritical and illegal for the state to interfere with gambling
on sovereign Indian territory.”
I said, “That’s how the ’Glades Indians got into
the gambling business. I didn’t know.”
“The Seminoles, man. Yeah, they were the first.
Their chief at the time, James Billie, he was a genius. An old
Vietnam combat vet, and he didn’t take any shit. But, in Florida,
the Skins have always had to fight.”
As an example, Tomlinson told us that, for more
than two hundred years, the state and federal government refused to
officially recognize the Florida Miccosukee as a tribe.
Every twelve months, Miccosukee leaders filed
petitions with the Bureau of Indian Affairs for “tribal
confirmation.” Every twelve months, their petition was
denied.
In the 1960s, the Miccosukee came up with a
brilliant finesse. They sent a tribal delegation to Cuba where
Fidel Castro signed documents recognizing the tribe as “a duly
constituted government and a sovereign nation.” It assured them of
international legal status.
Embarrassed, the U.S. government had no choice but
to finally “confirm” the Miccosukee as a tribe.
“Florida hasn’t made it easy for any of them,”
Tomlinson told us. “Back in ninety-one, the Seminoles had to sue
the state in federal court because Florida refused to abide by IGRA
statutes. The state insists it has the right to regulate gaming, so
the Skins were all pissed off—Miccosukee and Seminole—and it’s
still in the courts.”
Tomlinson tapped the car window, indicating the
casino. “So the kind of gambling you can do in there is low-stakes
stuff—compared to other casinos, anyway.”
DeAntoni said, “Too bad. Up at Foxwood, the Pequot
Indians, they got thirty-some crap tables going day and night. I
love to play those double-thunder slots, too. Or get a vodka on the
rocks and play baccarat. Man, that’s recreation.”
Parroting DeAntoni’s earlier sarcasm, Tomlinson
replied, “You love to drink hard liquor and gamble, huh? A big-city
guy like you. That’s a hell of a surprise.”
At the gatehouse, a guard dressed in tropical
whites—including pith helmet—told us that he was sorry, but, unless
we were accompanied by an owner, or on a member’s list, or unless
we had an appointment with a Sawgrass real estate representative,
he couldn’t allow us to enter.
In Florida, most gated communities hire security
people who look like retired wallpaper salesmen. Minimum-wage guys
killing time between visits from the grandchildren.
This one was different. He looked like he spent his
off-hours in the gym. Had that hard cop formality which is a form
of controlled hostility.
DeAntoni opened his billfold, showing his badge.
“I’m here on business.”
The guard looked at the badge; shrugged like it was
invisible. “No, sir, you’re not here on business. Not unless
someone from management notifies me.”
“Then call someone in management. It’s about one of
your deceased members, Geoff Minster. I’m here representing his
wife. I can have her call if you want.”
The guard thought for a moment, then said, “Back up
and pull over. I don’t want you blocking the gate if a member needs
to drive through.”
The gatehouse was sided by high stone walls and an
acre or so of landscaped garden, hibiscus, travelers palms, and a
life-sized Indian elephant carved of tropical wood next to a
fountain. The elephant stood frozen, trunk down as if watering. In
front of the elephant, a carved sign read:
SAWGRASS
A PRIVATE MEMBERSHIP SPORTING COMMUNITY
A PRIVATE MEMBERSHIP SPORTING COMMUNITY
There was a much smaller sign on the gatehouse
wall: OUR SECURITY STAFF IS AUTHORIZED TO CARRY FIREARMS AND AIR
TASERS, AND MAY USE LAWFUL FORCE TO INTERCEPT OR DETAIN
TRESPASSERS.
As we waited, a new Mercedes convertible pulled up,
two middle-aged men in the front. The guard took the phone from his
ear long enough to salute, smile and say, “’Morn ing, Mr.
Terwilliger!” then touched a button to open the gate.
“Friendly little place,” DeAntoni said, watching.
“The guy in the white jungle beanie—I wouldn’t mind slapping him
around some. Him and his asshole attitude. What you think, Ford? He
looks like a bleeder to me. The kind who stands in front of the
mirror with his weight-lifter muscles, but starts to bawl if he
gets smacked a couple of times.”
I said, “You’re not smacking anybody and neither am
I. That’s not going to get us inside those gates, and it’s not
going to help Sally.”
Tomlinson told him, “Doc’s embraced a policy of
total nonviolence, which is a major spiritual breakthrough. We’ve
discussed it. He’s trying to grow as a human being.”
Watching the guard walk toward us, DeAntoni said,
“Oh yeah? Then explain why my beezer’s the size of a turnip,”
touching his swollen nose gingerly.
The guard came out, leaned toward the window and
handed DeAntoni a card. “Send a fax to this number, stating exactly
who you want to interview—we need specific names to make a
request—and your reasons for visiting Sawgrass. The office will get
back with you within a week to ten days. You know, on whether we
can provide assistance.”
In a flat voice, DeAntoni said, “‘A week to ten
days.’”
“That’s right, sir.”
“Look, Mac, all I want to do is go to the
restaurant, talk to a few people, maybe find someone who knew the
late Geoff Minster. It’s not like we’re gonna filch the fucking
silver-ware—”
I put my hand on DeAntoni’s arm, leaning across,
and said to the guard, “Thanks. We’re leaving now.”
The guard said, “That’s right, sir. You
are.”
Tomlinson said, “Very, very cool. I don’t just
like the idea, I love it.”
He said it in reply to DeAntoni’s suggestion that
we park the Lincoln down one of the old logging roads, and sneak
onto the property on foot.
DeAntoni said, “Except for Mister Tight-Ass, nobody
in there’s gonna know we’re not friends of members, or maybe just
scoping out real estate. Rent-a-cops, Mac. They really bust my
balls.”
He sounded insulted.
I wasn’t as enthusiastic. I’ve spent a significant
portion of my life working in places I was not supposed to be;
places where I would have been shot—or worse—if discovered.
Breaching security, compromising security systems, is demanding
work.
I was once competent. No longer. Techniques change
along with technology. You don’t probe a guarded position on
impulse. It’s something to be researched and planned.
Trespassing, like pyromania, is a word I associate
with amateurs.
On the other hand, there wasn’t much risk. If we
got caught poking around, asking questions about a dead member—and
we almost certainly would get caught if we starting asking
questions—what’s the worst they could do? Call the police?
More likely, they’d just tell us to get the hell
off the grounds, and that’d be that. In the meantime, we might find
a friend or two of the missing man. Having a member agree to talk
to us would certainly mitigate matters with local security.
So I told DeAntoni, okay, pull up the road, and
we’d work our way back on foot.
It was an instructive decision.
Sawgrass, the exclusive community, was a shaded
garden of cypress, bromeliads and swamp maple. The wall that
cosseted it was almost always hidden by trees. It followed the
roadway for another mile or so before angling back into the shadows
of its western boundary.
That’s where the wall ended. It is also where the
tree line ended, and a new development project began.
Sally’d told us about it. Bhagwan Shiva’s theme
community for gamblers: a self-contained city that adjoined Indian
reservation land where he wanted to build casinos. Several thousand
housing units plus a city center, restaurants, recreation centers,
all designed to attract people from middle-income brackets; people
with enough money to gamble, but not wealthy enough to buy property
in Sawgrass.
He was having a lot of permitting problems, Sally’d
told us.
From the road, though, construction seemed to be
well underway, permits or no permits—although destruction
seemed a more accurate term. There were several gated, dirt access
roads, with modular offices, plastic Porta-Johns, temporary power
poles. At each, were signs that read: FUTURE HOME OF CASINO LAKES,
AN EXCLUSIVE PLANNED COMMUNITY. PRECONSTRUCTION PRICES
AVAILABLE.
The crews weren’t working on this Saturday morning.
Hadn’t been working for several weeks, by the looks of things. The
first stage of the operation, however, seemed complete. They’d
brought in a fleet of bulldozers and scraped the earth bare.
Several hundred acres of black earth were turning gray in the
morning sun. Only a few bald cypresses out there were left
standing, isolated, sculptured like bonsai trees on a massive
desert plain.
The cypress is an interesting, exotic-looking tree,
with its connected, tubular base, bulbous knees and leaves as
delicate as oriental lace. They grow in distinctive settings: on
islands of elevated terrain in sawgrass marshes where, as a
community of many hundreds of trees—even thousands of trees—they
form a characteristic dome. Green rotundas of shadow out on the
sawgrass horizon.
Cypress also grows along floodplains on long,
silver strands that can be miles long. South Florida’s interior was
once an uninterrupted canopy of cypress domes and strands. Up until
the late 1940s, they comprised America’s last virgin stand of bald
cypress and pond cypress: trees well over a hundred feet tall and
several centuries old.
At the end of World War II, though, the big lumber
companies arrived in Florida, motivated by a postwar construction
frenzy that was hungry for building material. Dried and milled,
cypress is a handsome conifer wood that is insect-and
rot-resistant—perfect for houses. Rail lines were built, spur lines
added; labor was imported. It took the companies nine years to
girdle, bleed and cut an epochal forest that had been the
centerpiece of an ecosystem that dated back to the Pleistocene.
Many thousands of loaded freight cars; many millions of board
feet.
There’re still lots of small cypress trees in the
’Glades. But big cypresses, the old giants are rare. In this area,
though, the loggers had missed a few. Now those few trees stood
alone on the bulldozed plain, solitary dinosaurs revealed, naked in
this new century.
The three of us sat in the car, staring, until
Tomlinson finally spoke. “There’s a kind of silence that’s really
more like a scream. Listen.” He’d lowered his window. “Hear
it?”
DeAntoni turned to me. “What’s he mean, because
they flattened it like a parking lot? There’s gotta be at least two
square miles of land out there.”
I said, “Yeah. Maybe more.”
“Permitting problems, my ass, man.”
I told Tomlinson, “What could be happening here—one
of the managers at South Seas was telling me about it—is what’s
becoming a sophisticated developer’s device. It’s so tough to get
permits to build anything, developers know it’s going to take them
months, even years before they’ll get the okay on a project. So
they’ve figured out they’ll actually save money by going ahead,
building anyway, then paying fines later with inflated dollars.
There’s a whole generation of bureaucrats out there who behave as
if people in the private sector are enemies of the state. Which is
just idiotic. So it’s become like a war—and everyone’s
losing.”
Tomlinson said to me, “Understand now why I call
him a power-zapper? He’s a black hole, man, out there trying to
absorb all the light he can. He’s feeding. He’s been feeding
right here.”
Bhagwan Shiva.
A little farther down the road was a crossroads
general store, Big Cypress Grab Bag. Shell parking, a pair of gas
pumps, rusted tin roof, wire mesh over the windows, peeling yellow
paint. Coke. Bud Light. Lottery tickets and food stamps
accepted. On the other side of the road were two businesses in a
single, elongated building built of cement block: Devil’s Garden
Feed & Supply and Gator Bill’s Bar.
Driving by slow, hitting his turn signal, DeAntoni
said, “Pickup trucks and Confederate flags. Now you understand why
I tried that chewing tobacco shit?”
“Makes perfect sense now,” I said as I opened the
door, then stepped out into the heat and a sawgrass humidity so
dense it was like weight.
It was almost noon. Gator Bill’s was a popular
lunch place. There were a dozen or so cars and trucks, country
music loud from inside, a jukebox, maybe, singing “. . . blow, blow
Seminole wind!”
Through the screen door, in the shadows, I could
see men at the bar hunched over drinks, a woman with black hair
braided long, muling trays.
DeAntoni said, “We’ll hit this place on the way
back. If they won’t let us eat at Sawgrass—one of the hot-shit
restaurants they got in there—we’ll come back, grab a stool at the
bar. That waitress, she doesn’t look half bad.”
We walked along the road in the heat. There wasn’t
much traffic: semis loaded with oranges tunneling the heat at
seventy miles per hour; dump trucks and tractors with
air-conditioned cabs. Their wind wakes created mini-tornadoes in
the grass, whipped at our clothes.
Florida is more than beaches and theme parks. It’s
a major agricultural state and, consistently, the second or third
leading producer of cattle in the nation. We were at the
southernmost boundary, where pasture meets swamp prairie, the first
and final edge of tropical wilderness.
At the beginning of Casino Lakes development, we
cut down one of the access roads, then across to Sawgrass. DeAntoni
and Tomlinson both wanted to climb the wall, take our chances. But
I told them why be obvious and give them an excuse to call the
police if someone spotted us?
I said, “Let’s try the easy way, first.”
Most gated communities have service entrances—they
don’t want the landscape soiled by all those dirty delivery trucks,
or to require members to exchange pleasantries with the hired help.
Sawgrass’s service entrance was off an asphalt spur at the western
boundary: a chain-link fence, double-gated. There was a little
guardhouse where an old man sat, feet up on his desk, reading the
paper. He looked up from the newspaper as we approached.
To DeAntoni and Tomlinson, I whispered, “Walk like
you own the place.” A few paces later, I stopped and called to the
old man, “Whoops, sorry. I didn’t realize this was the service
entrance. We’ll hike around to the front.”
He’d slid the front window open. “Who you fellas
with?”
“The Terwilligers, down here for first time. So we
don’t know the area. No big deal, we’ll walk back to the front
gate.”
Maybe he knew the middle-aged man in the Mercedes
convertible, maybe he didn’t.
As I turned, the old man called, “Oh heck, go right
ahead on in. They got too many rules at this place as it is. Hot as
it is, you want me to have staff bring you a golf cart?”
I said, “Nope, walking’s a good way to go.”
Waving us along, smiling, the man said, “Ain’t that
the truth? These days, ever’body’s in a hurry. You tell Mr.
Terwilliger, Freddy says hey.”
A nice old guy.
When we were well away, walking on a brick sidewalk
among manicured gardens, through tupelo trees and cypress, DeAntoni
said to me, “You’re smooth, Mac. Very smooth.”
I told him, “We’ll see.”