15
In this humble book I have tried to give the
facts about the cuisine of the Chinese imperial palace. It was a
place of tragic beauty. Of everything I learned there, one thing
stands out. Food was always to be shared. When my master sent out
his untouched dishes from the huge imperial repasts to the families
of the princes and the chief bureaucrats, he would send them only
as complete meals for eight people in stacked lacquerware. Never
any other way. Always for eight. The high point of every meal was
never the food itself, he taught us, but always the act of sharing
it.
— LIAN G WEI, The Last Chinese Chef
They awakened to a sound, too early. They
were naked under the blankets, their arms and legs twined like one
being. With Matt, when she woke up, she had always been off by
herself in the bed. This was different. She moved closer to Sam’s
smell, his black hair, his body the same size as hers. Then the
sound crashed through again, and right behind it she heard another
sound, one she recognized — the creak of the red gate pushing open.
“Sam.” She nudged him, whispered in his ear.
He stirred. Then they heard Jiang’s quavery voice
calling. “Zizi!” Nephew!
“They’re here,” said Sam. He jumped out of the bed,
his darkivory skin flashing in the daylight before her eyes, his
hands quick on his pants. “Here.” He threw her clothes. “Sorry.
Damn. No privacy in this family.”
“But what do I do?”
“Nothing. Just be normal.”
“It’s not,” she said. “It’s not normal.”
“I know that. But it’s the best kind of not
normal.”
“Zizi!” Jiang called again from the
courtyard.
“Wo lai!” Sam called back, Coming!
“Should we say anything?” she asked.
“Why?” he said. “They’ll know everything the
instant they see you. You’re here, in my room, it’s not even seven
o’clock, and look at you. Anybody can see it. You’re brimming with
it. You’re a walking light source.”
“So are you,” she said. He was smiling
nonstop.
He zipped his pants. “Just come out.” And he turned
and slipped out into the courtyard.
She followed a minute later, stopped in the
bathroom, then came out and there they were, a fussing, loving clot
of old men. “Miss Maggie!” Tan called, waving her over with a
smile. They were all beaming welcome. They all knew. She felt naked
as she walked over and said good morning to them. She felt as if
they had seen everything she and Sam had done. Yet they were happy.
She was happy too, she realized. She relaxed.
Sam had gone ahead to the kitchen and now called
out that he was starting breakfast — in English, which was for
her.
“How was the temple?” she said to Sam’s
father.
“Ah! So delicious! You have never eaten a
vegetarian meal like this one. The gluten duck, the crispy
pepper-salt oysters made from rice puffs — you must go.”
“Would I have to get up and pray?”
“Naturally! Four-thirty in the morning! Why do you
think we are home so early?”
“I’ll go if he goes,” she joked, shooting a look
toward the kitchen, where Sam was clanging pots.
“We will all go,” Liang Yeh said.
Jiang and Tan were preparing the single table in
the dining room, having pulled it over by the windows to drink in
the morning light. They set five places and were steeping tea of
various kinds. She tried to help them, but they batted her away and
sent her on to the kitchen.
Sam was at the stove. She slid onto her stool in
her now-accustomed spot. The stool was hers now; it fit her
body.
“I feel so humbled by what happened,” he
said.
“I do too. Humbled. Awed.”
She watched him while the rice cooked, happy even
though nothing was certain. “What are you making?”
“Congee. It’s the simplest food, the most basic.
But it takes care. It’s like love.” He looked straight at her; she
could feel him looking right through her clothes to her body, to
her heart. He gave the pot a stir. “First it must have that
fragrance of fresh-steamed rice. Then the toppings.” He gestured at
the side counter, which was crowded with little bowls he had been
preparing while the aromatic rice was cooking. There were tiny
squares of crunchy pickle, slivers of greens, velvety cubes of
tofu, tiny smoke-dried Hunan fish mounded up in a crispy, silvery
tangle. There were peanuts, shreds of river moss, crunchy soaked
fungus, and matchsticks of salty Yunnan ham. “You can take those
in,” he said.
“Okay.” It felt good bearing dishes for him, having
a place in the pattern. She put all the side dishes around the rim
of the inner wheel. She had seen the enormous tureen for the
congee; Sam was warming it now, by the sink, with boiling water.
She left room for it in the center of the wheel.
He brought the tureen in. All the dishes around it
made a pleasing circle. They sat down together. “Lai, lai,”
said Sam, Come, and they all passed their clean bowls to him. The
first one he filled, he handed to his father. Then he served Jiang,
the eldest, and then Tan. And then her. When he handed her the bowl
and their fingers touched he looked into her with a gladness that
was unmistakable. She knew they all saw it. That kind of feeling
could not be hidden.
She surveyed the condiments. She selected greens,
pickle pieces, and the tiny fish. Following one more suggestion
from Sam’s eyes she took slippery cubes of fresh tofu too. There.
He looked satisfied. She felt another satisfaction bloom. He cared
what she ate. That was not something she had known before either.
She and Matt had been servants of convenience. There could never in
their house have been a meal like this.
Chopsticks flew as they piled ingredients on top of
their congee, and the Chinese conversation burst forth like birds
from a box. She loved the sound of it. If she learned the language,
if she understood it, would it still be so? Would she feel loosed
from her old fetters whenever she heard it, freshly born? Maybe.
Maybe more so.
She mixed her congee with her spoon and tasted it.
Oh, so good. She shivered. The salty and piquant flavors against
the delicate fragrance of rice, the crispy fish against the tofu
and the soft gruel. Sheer goodness. She caught Sam’s eye and said
one word, “Wonderful.”
The uncles agreed. “I would come back from the dead
for this,” said Jiang. “What is that poem? The one that calls back
the soul to the table?”
“Oh! From the Zhou Dynasty,” said Tan.
To their surprise, it was Liang Yeh who started to
intone, in English.
“O Soul, come back! Why should you go far
away?
All kinds of good foods are ready:
rice, broom-corn, early wheat, mixed with yellow millet —
All kinds of good foods are ready:
rice, broom-corn, early wheat, mixed with yellow millet —
He could not remember the next line. Jiang murmured
to him in Chinese, and he continued:
“Ribs of the fatted ox, tender and succulent;
Sour and bitter blended in the soup of Wu.
Sour and bitter blended in the soup of Wu.
O Soul, come back and do not be
afraid.”
“Ah, the soup of Wu,” said Tan as he ate his
congee. Wu was the archaic word for the region around Hangzhou,
which made the connection to their friend’s death complete.
“To Uncle Xie,” Sam said, raising his teacup. They
drank.
After this Sam refilled their bowls from the tureen
and the condiments went around again.
“You are a great chef,” Liang Yeh said to his
son.
“Thanks,” Sam said, reddening. He caught Maggie’s
eye. This was the moment for him, she understood. More than the
prize. More than the restaurant.
“You are! I saw three nights ago. We all
saw.”
“Yes,” said Jiang and Tan, on top of each other.
“We did.”
Under the table she touched his knee. He caught her
hand and held it.
Liang Yeh could feel the current between them.
“Now, we must take your lady friend to the temple. What do you say?
I am happy to go again this very week.”
“She’s leaving in a few days,” said Sam.
“Leaving? No! She just arrived! Isn’t that true?”
He addressed himself to Maggie. “Didn’t you just arrive?”
“More or less,” she said. “But I have to go back. I
have a job.”
His face fell.
Sam said, “Dad, it’s okay.”
“I know.” Liang Yeh raised a hand. “Because you
will return.” He touched Maggie’s arm lightly. “Isn’t it so? Won’t
you be back? Very soon?”
All of them were watching her.
She sneaked a look at Sam. His face was full and
unafraid. Go ahead, he seemed to be telling her, say it.
Tell them.
“I think so,” she said. “Yes.”
“Good. You see?” said Liang Yeh. His eyes crinkled
with gladness as he took slivers of ham and greens and added them
to Sam’s bowl, and put another scoop of the crisp silver fish in
hers. “Now eat, children. Another day lies ahead.”