Notes

Chapter 1 : Beauty Is Power!

 1. Vogue, February 1915.

 2. Yeb 63b, Ber 57b, see www.holysmoke.org/sdhok/jp-fem4.htm.

 3. Greg, “Why Are Women Redundant?” National Review, April 1862.

 4. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 13.

 5. Rubinstein, The Art of Feminine Beauty, p. 6.

 6. Carter, With Tongue in Chic, p. 174.

 7. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 246.

 8. Life, July 21, 1941, pp. 37–45.

 9. Quoted in Peiss, Hope in a Jar, p. 95.

10. All this detail—and everything else about HR’s life in Australia—comes from Woodhead, War Paint.

11. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 25.

12. Woodhead, War Paint, p. 41.

13. HR to Rosa Hollay, June 1915, Bulmer papers. Thanks to Ann Treneman for help regarding this source.

14. Advertisement from Table Talk, quoted in Woodhead, War Paint, p. 51.

15. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 151.

16. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 26.

17. Ibid., pp. 28, 13.

18. Phillips, Skin Deep, p. 29.

19. Rubinstein, The Art of Feminine Beauty, p. 14.

20. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 32.

21. Rubinstein, The Art of Feminine Beauty, p. 15.

22. Carter, With Tongue in Chic, p. 175.

23. Rubinstein, The Art of Feminine Beauty, p. 16.

24. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 33.

25. Ibid., p. 34.

26. Ibid., p. 33.

27. HR to Rosa Hollay, July 20, 1915, May 1920, Bulmer papers.

28. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 100.

29. Ibid., pp. 39–40.

30. S. N. Behrman, Portrait of Max, quoted in George Landow, “Max Beerbohm Creates a Great Fuss,” http://www.victorianweb.org/authors/mb/rouge1.html.

31. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 42.

32. HR to Rosa Hollay, December 8, 1914, Bulmer papers.

33. HR to Rosa Hollay, March 1923.

34. According to Fabe, Beauty Millionaire, p. 68.

35. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 32.

36. Rubinstein, The Art of Feminine Beauty, p. 19.

37. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 92.

38. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 70.

39. HR to Rosa Hollay, May 9, 1915, Bulmer papers.

40. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 104.

41. Figure given by the American Chemical Society; quoted in Woodhead, War Paint, p. 100.

42. New York World, September 11, 1910; Lillian Wald, The House on Henry Street, 1915, p. 192; both quoted in Banner, American Beauty, p. 217.

43. American Magazine, December 1922.

44. Gray, “People Who Want to Look Young and Beautiful,” pp. 32–33.

45. HR to Rosa Hollay, November 12, 1914, Bulmer papers.

46. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 224.

47. Ibid., p. 233.

48. Vogue, May, 1, 1915.

49. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 61.

50. HR to Rosa Hollay, July 13, 1915, Bulmer papers.

51. Quoted in Woodhead, War Paint, p. 122.

52. HR to Rosa Hollay, 1921, Bulmer papers.

53. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 181.

54. Times (London), March 20, 2002.

55. The New Yorker, June 30, 1928.

56. Life, July 21, 1941.

57. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 93.

58. All this detail from Woodhead, War Paint, pp. 166–70.

59. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 72.

Chapter 2: The Authoritarian

 1. 1936, Skin Deep correspondence, Rutgers University Special Collections.

 2. There are two principal sources of information on Eugène Schueller’s life. He gave a full account of his life history in evidence before the court that tried him for civil collaboration after World War I (Dossier instruit par la cour de justice du département de la Seine contre Eugène Schueller, Archives Nationales [cote Z 6 N L 11.108]). And some years later he told his story, differing slightly in some details, to journalist Merry Bromberger, who recorded the interview, along with others, in his Comment ils ont fait fortune (How They Made Their Money). Where no other source is credited, I have relied on these for what follows.

 3. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, p. 83.

 4. Dalle, L’Aventure L’Oréal, p. 63.

 5. Interview with Liliane Bettencourt, Egoïste, no. 10, 1987.

 6. Ibid.

 7. Curie, Madame Curie, pp. 305–10.

 8. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, p. 64.

 9. Schueller, De L’Innocuité des teintures pour cheveux.

10. Skin Deep correspondence, Rutgers University Special Collections.

11. Interview with Liliane Bettencourt, Egoïste, 1987.

12. Bromberger, Comment ils ont fait fortune, p. 78.

13. Schueller, Le Deuxième salaire.

14. Testimony of Jacques Sadoul, Archives Nationales de France (CARAN): Dossier instruit par la cour de justice du département de la Seine contre Eugène Schueller (côte 26 NL 11.108).

15. Bromberger, Comment ils ont fait fortune, p. 78.

16. Ibid., p. 86.

17. Schueller, L’Impôt sur l’énergie, p. 115.

18. Corson, Fashions in Hair, p. 615.

19. Ibid., p. 619.

20. Schueller, L’Impôt sur l’énergie.

21. HR to Rosa Hollay, December 1915, October 1922, 1921, Bulmer papers.

22. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 28.

23. Coiffure de Paris, October 8–10, 1909. Translation is the author’s, as are all translations not specifically attributed.

24. Schueller, La Révolution de l’économie.

25. Sadoul’s evidence, Dossier instruit par la cour de justice du département de la Seine contre Eugène Schueller.

26. Schueller, Faire Vivre, p. 24.

27. Ibid.

28. Schueller, La Révolution de l’économie, p. 35.

29. Ibid., p. 6.

30. Schueller, Le Deuxième salaire.

31. Schueller, La Révolution de l’économie, p. 202.

32. Ibid., p. 35.

33. Ibid.

34. Ibid., p. 219.

35. Bromberger, Comment ils ont fait fortune, p. 91.

36. Votre Beauté, December 1934.

37. Votre Beauté, January 1936.

38. Lecture, Salle Pleyel, December 6, 1941, Archives Nationales, cote Z 6 N L 11.108.

39. Bromberger, Comment ils ont fait fortune, p. 73.

40. Schueller, Le Deuxième salaire, p. 5.

41. Dalle, L’Aventure L’Oréal, p. 23.

42. Charles E. Sorensen, David L. Lewis, and Samuel T. Wilkinson, My Forty Years with Ford (New York, 1956), p. 29.

43. Albert Lee, Henry Ford and the Jews (New York, 1980), p. 99.

44. Schueller, Le Deuxième salaire.

45. Ibid.

46. Dunlap, Personal Beauty and Racial Betterment, p. 20.

47. Ibid., p. 36.

48. Ibid., p. 58.

Chapter 3: What Did You Do in the War, Daddy?

 1. Bromberger, Comment ils ont fait fortune, p. 73

 2. Schueller, Le Deuxième salaire.

 3. Koestler, Scum of the Earth, p. 32.

 4. Dalle, L’Aventure L’Oréal, p. 20.

 5. Potton, On a trouvé un chef.

 6. Lecture, Salle Pleyel, December 6, 1941.

 7. Schueller, La Révolution de l’économie, p. 219.

 8. Ibid., p. 122.

 9. Testimony of Georges Mercadier, Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

10. Lecture, Salle Pleyel, December 6, 1941, Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

11. Charbonneau, Les Mémoires de Porthos I, pp. 16–17.

12. Lecture, Salle Pleyel, December 6, 1941, Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

13. Addressing the political bureau of MSR, November 23, 1941. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, p. 105.

14. Schueller, La Révolution de l’économie, p. 202.

15. This was true even though the Germans confiscated 42 percent of French GDP, and workers’ buying power was halved by 1943. See Lacroix-Riz, Industriels et banquiers sous l’Occupation, p. 565.

16. Schueller, La Révolution de l’économie, quoted in Rochebrune and Hazéra, Les Patrons sous l’Occupation, p. 771.

17. Quoted in Lacroix-Riz, Industriels et banquiers sous l’Occupation, pp. 561–65.

18. Ibid., pp. 327–28.

19. Letter, Schmilinsky to Baron Dr. von Mahs, October 29, 1941: Archives Nationales (cote AJ40 vol 775). Quoted in Lacroix-Riz, Industriels et banquiers sous l’Occupation, p. 436.

20. Charbonneau, Les Mémoires de Porthos, p. 334.

21. Péan, Le Mystérieux Docteur Martin, p. 249.

22. Amouroux, Les Beaux jours des collabos, p. 362.

23. Schueller interrogation, February 19, 1948, Dossier instruit par la cour de justice du département de la Seine contre Eugène Schueller (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

24. “Un beau-père encombrant,” Le Monde, February 12, 1995.

25. See, for example, Charbonneau, Les Mémoires de Porthos, p. 342.

26. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, p. 103.

27. Abellio, Sol invictus, p. 213.

28. Schueller interrogation, February 19, 1948, Archives Nationales cote Z 6 N L 11.108.

29. Rochebrune and Hazéra, Les Patrons sous l’Occupation, p. 753.

30. Giesbert, François Mitterrand, p. 96.

31. Abellio, Sol invictus, p. 213.

32. Charbonneau, Les Mémoires de Porthos, p. 344.

33. Abellio, Sol invictus, p. 213.

34. Ibid., p. 215.

35. Schueller interrogation, February 19, 1948, Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

36. Archives de Paris, Comité régional industriel d’épuration d’entreprises de la Seine, affaire Schueller, 1946.

37. Peiss, Hope in a Jar, p. 242.

38. Woodhouse, War Paint, pp. 274–75.

39. Current Biography, 1943, ed. Maxine Block.

40. Gilman, Making the Body Beautiful, p. 180.

41. Guenther, Nazi Chic?, pp. 98–101.

42. Dossier instruit par la cour de justice du département de la Seine contre Eugène Schueller (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

43. Evidence given in Schueller’s trial for industrial collaboration, December 6, 1948. These of course were the official figures. They tell us nothing about the black market. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

44. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

45. Dalle, L’Aventure L’Oréal, p. 33.

46. Archives de Paris. Comité régional industriel d’épuration d’entreprises de la Seine, affaire Schueller, 1946.

47. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

48. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

49. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, pp. 60–61.

50. Archives Curie, Paris: BnF Mss. Archives Joliot-Curie (déposées à l’Institut Curie) NAF 28161.

51. Ibid.

52. Archives of the Groupement des Industries Métallurgiques Mécaniques et Connexes de la Région Parisienne (GIMMCP), quoted in Vinen, The Politics of French Business 1936–1945, p. 196.

53. Berr, Journal, p. 204.

54. Charbonneau, Les Mémoires de Porthos, p. 345.

55. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

56. Archives de Paris, Comité régional industriel d’épuration d’entreprises de la Seine, affaire Schueller, 1946.

Chapter 4: Family Affairs

 1. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 183.

 2. Bettencourt described their meeting in the preface to a souvenir book privately published by the family to celebrate Schueller’s centenary in 1981.

 3. La Terre Française, December 6, 1941.

 4. Pierre Bettencourt, Les Désordres de la mémoire, p. 207.

 5. Dalle, L’Aventure L’Oréal, pp. 14–15.

 6. Ibid., p. 20.

 7. Péan, Une Jeunesse française, p. 99.

 8. Ibid., p. 76.

 9. Dalle, L’Aventure L’Oréal, pp. 24–25.

10. Ibid., p. 62.

11. Ibid., pp. 84–85.

12. Péan, Vies et morts de Jean Moulin, p. 176.

13. Interview with Pierre Péan, in Péan, Vies et morts de Jean Moulin, pp. 470–71.

14. Ibid.

15. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

16. Bromberger, Comment ils ont fait fortune, p. 92.

17. Péan, Une jeunesse française, p. 520.

18. Votre Beauté, January 1946.

19. Ibid.

20. Rubinstein, My Life for Beauty, p. 78.

21. Lewis and Wordsworth, Miss Elizabeth Arden, 86.

22. New York Times, February 2, 1944.

23. HR to Rosa Hollay, October 1, 1915, and late summer 1916, Bulmer papers.

24. New York Times, February 2, 1944.

25. O’Higgins, Madame, pp. 247–50.

Chapter 5: A Takeover and Three Scandals

 1. O’Higgins, Madame, pp. 271–75.

 2. Ibid., pp. 280–83.

 3. Ibid., p. 45.

 4. New York Times, April 3, 1965.

 5. Dalle, L’Aventure L’Oréal, p. 231.

 6. New York Times, May 19, 1968.

 7. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 45.

 8. New York Times, September 29, 1980.

 9. Ibid., October 15, 1988.

10. Le Monde, June 4, 1988.

11. Ibid., December 21, 1991.

12. Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, p. 8.

13. Le Monde, June 6, 1991.

14. Wall Street Journal, June 7, 1991.

15. Le Monde, June 6, 1991.

16. Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, p. 37.

17. Le Cri du Peuple, October 14, 1948.

18. Ibid.

19. Corrèze papers at Le Centre de Documentation Juive Contemporaine, Paris.

20. Abellio, Sol invictus, 282.

21. New York Times, June 20, 1991.

22. Lettre à un cousin, July 27, 1954, quoted in Péan, Une Jeunesse française, p. 13.

23. Assouline, quoting Gide’s secretary, Lucien Combelle, in L’Épuration des intellectuels, p. 74.

24. Dalle, quoted in Le Monde, June 6, 1991.

25. Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, p. 119.

26. Le Monde, June 6, 1991.

27. Conversation with the author, June 2008.

28. New York Times, June 27, 1991.

29. Wall Street Journal, June 7, 1991.

30. L’Élan, December 13, 1941.

31. La Terre Française, October 11, 1941.

32. Ibid., December 20, 1941.

33. Ibid., April 12, 1941.

34. Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, p. 203.

35. This is set out in two letters from “Grainville” (Bettencourt) to “Morland” (Mitterrand), dated August 9 and 11, 1944, published in Le Monde, March 9, 1995.

36. Frydman, L’Affaire Bettencourt, p. 23, quoting Alain Guérin, Chronique de la Résistance, p. 1585.

37. “Grainville” to “Morland,” August 9, 1944, published in Le Monde, March 9, 1995.

38. Péan, Une Jeunesse française, pp. 439–40.

39. Trano, Mitterrand, les amis d’abord, 80.

40. Ibid.

41. Ibid.

42. Le Monde, February 12, 2005.

43. Ibid., March 9, 1995.

44. Ibid., February 12, 1995.

45. Ibid., March 9, 1995.

46. Letter, André Bettencourt to Congressman Engel, January 25, 1995, in Frydman, L’Affaire Bettencourt, p. 31–32.

47. J.-J. Roy, “Les Deux Justices,” Les Temps Modernes 33 (June 1948), quoted in Judt, Past Imperfect, p. 47. Judt’s discussion of the épuration is particularly perceptive.

48. Bromberger, Comment ils ont fait fortune, p. 93.

49. Benamou, Jeune homme, vous ne savez pas de quoi vous parlez, pp. 62–63.

50. Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, 173–74.

51. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, p. 172.

52. Jouve and Magoudi, Mitterrand. Portrait total, p. 163, quoted in Péan, Une Jeunesse française, p. 288.

53. Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, p. 211.

54. Péan, Une Jeunesse française, pp. 12–13.

55. New York Times, June 20, 1991, p. D5.

56. Fabius, speaking in 1994, quoted in Benamou, Jeune homme . . . , p. 166.

57. Ibid.

58. Benamou, Jeune homme . . . , p. 195.

59. “The Revolution We Need,” L’Élan-Jeune Aquitaine, December 13, 1941.

60. Le Monde, February 12, 1995.

61. Quoted in Trano, Mitterrand, les amis d’abord.

62. Testimony at the Cagoule trial, Le Cri du Peuple, October 14, 1948.

63. Le Monde, June 20, 1991,

64. New York Times, June 20, 1991.

65. Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, p. 145.

66. Dalle, testimony to examining magistrate Jean-Pierre Getti, June 19, 1991; quoted in Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, p. 158.

67. Bar-Zohar, Bitter Scent, p. 109.

68. Archives Nationales (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).

69. Dalle, L’Aventure L’Oréal, p. 208.

70. Waitzfelder, L’Oréal Took My Home, pp. 180–81.

71. Ibid., pp. 182–83.

72. Ibid., p. 55.

73. Ibid., pp. 204–5.

74. Ibid., pp. 192–93.

75. Ibid., pp. 184–85.

76. Ibid., p. 91.

77. Ibid., pp. 194–97 and 200–3.

78. Abescat, Le Saga des Bettencourt, pp. 90–91.

Chapter 6: Consumers or Consumed?

 1. Two editions of Who Owns Britain? by Gordon Schaffer and Kevin Cahill, published in 1944 and 2001 respectively; and Who Owns England? by Peter Grant, published in 1991.

 2. By Herbert Agar and Allen Tate, first published 1936; by Walter J. Hickel, published 1971; by Edmund Blair Bolles, published 1984; by Harvey M. Jacobs, published 1998.

 3. “Madame Rubinstein, the Little Lady from Krakow,” Life, July 21, 1941, pp. 37–45.

 4. Times (London), August 22, 1868, p. 6.

 5. Quoted in Miller, “Shrewd Woman of Business.”

 6. 1 Corinthians 11: 4–16.

 7. Quoted in Woodhead, War Paint, p. 153.

 8. Daily Mail, “Half of Women Will Have Cosmetic Surgery,” July 13, 2005.

 9. Skin Deep correspondence, Rutgers University.

10. Christa D’Souza, “My Name Is Christa. I’m an Age-orexic,” The Observer, May 13, 2007.

11. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, June 2008.

12. Orbach, Bodies, p. 85.

13. Gillies and Millard, The Principles and Art of Plastic Surgery (London, 1957), p. 395.

14. Nessia Pope, “The Get: Body and Soul; Beauty Map / Rio de Janeiro,” New York Times, October 22, 2006.

15. Conversation with the author, October 13, 2009.

16. Diana Appley and Cadie Nicholas, “We’re Addicted to Botox,” Daily Mail, September 18, 2006.

17. Laura Potter, “English Patience,” Observer Magazine, October 21, 2007.

18. Appley and Nicholas, “We’re Addicted to Botox.”

19. Phillips, Skin Deep, pp. 78–79.

20. Skin Deep correspondence, Rutgers University.

21. Paul Harris, “Plastic Surgery in Decline as America Tires of Excess,” The Observer, March 21, 2010.

22. The Harley Medical Group, report in Sky News, April 11, 2008.

23. John Dunne, “Redundant City Boys Opt for Facelifts,” The London Paper, January 26, 2009.

24. D’Souza, “My Name Is Christa.”

25. Warren Sanderson and Sergei Scherbov, “Average Remaining Lifetimes Can Increase as Human Populations Age,” Nature 435 (June 2005): 811–13.

26. BBC, Woman’s Hour, December 8, 2006.

27. Research by Alan Slater and colleagues at the University of Exeter, 2004, reported in New Scientist, September 6, 2004.

28. Davis, Reshaping the Female Body, p. 147.

29. bell hooks, “Straightening Our Hair,” Z Magazine September 1988.

30. Alva Johnston, “Testimonials, C.O.D.,” Outlook and Independent March 18, 1931.

31. Ibid.

32. His then wife recounted this to Lindy Woodhead; see Woodhead, War Paint, p. 200.

33. The discussion relating to Pascal Dangin derives from Lauren Collins, “Pixel Perfect,” The New Yorker, May 12, 2008.

34. Collins, “Pixel Perfect.”

35. Ibid.

36. Daily Mail, September 18, 2006.

37. Http://yeeeah.com/2008/11/04/kate-winslet-massively-photoshopped-in-vanity-fair/.

38. Daily Telegraph, August 3, 2009.

39. Friedan, The Feminine Mystique, 1982 edition, pp. 181–83.

40. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 29.

41. Ipsos Mori poll, cited in “Absence of Women from Top Boards Is Unacceptable, Says Gordon Brown,” Guardian, March 8, 2010.

42. “No Fake Tan to This Story of Success,” The Independent, February 19, 2005.

43. Guardian, May 14, 2009.

44. Ibid., February 2, 2010.

Coda : Two Old Ladies

 1. Joshua Levine, “Une Affaire de Famille,” Forbes, March 30, 2009.

 2. Egoïste no. 10, 1987. All of Liliane Bettencourt’s remarks on her upbringing and opinions are taken from this interview, the only one she ever gave until the Banier scandal erupted in 2007.

 3. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, p. 185.

 4. O’Higgins, Madame, p. 65.

 5. “The Bitter Family Battle for the L’Oréal Billion,” London Evening Standard, July 20, 2009.

 6. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, p. 10.

 7. Egoïste no. 10, 1987.

 8. Liliane Bettencourt, “ ‘Je n’ai plus envie de voir ma fille,’ ” Journal du Dimanche, December 21, 2008.

 9. O’Higgins, Madame, pp. 26–28.

10. Ibid., p. 269.

11. Ibid., p. 250.

12. Ibid., p. 268.

13. Ibid., p. 290.

14. Liliane Bettencourt, “ ‘Je n’ai plus envie de voir ma fille,’ ” Journal du Dimanche, December 21, 2008.

15. Ibid.

16. Michel Guerrin, “Il y a toujours eu de vacarme derrière moi,” Le Monde, December 9, 2009.

17. Ibid.

18. Ibid.

19. Ibid.

20. Ibid.

21. Banier, Le Passé composé, p. 68.

22. Ibid., p. 66.

23. “La ‘fausse camaraderie’ du dandy-photographe,” Le Figaro, February 13, 2009.

24. Banier on Castaing: www.fmbanier.com/madeleine_castaing_0.

25. Ibid.

26. “La ‘fausse-camaraderie’ du dandy-photographe.”

27. Guerrin, “Il y a toujours eu de vacarme derrière moi.”

28. Ibid.

29. Sworn statement, quoted in “Une Affaire de Famille,” Forbes, March 30, 2009.

30. Levine, “Une Affaire de Famille.”

31. Abescat, La Saga des Bettencourt, p. 250.

32. “Le sort de L’Oréal suspendu au procès pipole Banier-Bettencourt,” Canard Enchaîné, February 24, 2010.

33. Liliane Bettencourt, “ ‘Je n’ai plus envie de voir ma fille.’ ”

34. “La ‘fausse camaraderie’ du dandy-photographe.”

35. “Le sort de L’Oréal suspendu au procès pipole Banier-Bettencourt,” Canard Enchaîné, February 24, 2010.