Books
Abellio, Raymond. Sol invictus, 1939–1947. Volume 3 of Ma dernière mémoire (Paris, 1980).
Abescat, Bruno. La Saga des Bettencourt: L’Oréal, une fortune française (Paris, 2002).
Altick, Richard D. The Presence of the Present: Topics of the Day in the Victorian Novel (Columbus, Ohio, 1991).
Amouroux, Henri. Les Beaux jours des collabos. Volume 3 of La Grande histoire des Francais sous l’Occupation (Paris, 1978).
Anonymous. The Lady’s Toilette (London, 1822).
Assouline, Pierre. L’Épuration des intellectuels (Paris, 1996).
Banier, François-Marie. Le Passé composé (Paris, 1971).
Banner, Lois. American Beauty (New York, 1983).
Barrett Litoff, Judy, and Judith McDonnell, eds. European Immigrant Women in the United States: A Biographical Dictionary (London, 1994).
Bar-Zohar, Michael. Bitter Scent (London, 1996).
Beevor, Anthony, and Artemis Cooper. Paris after the Liberation 1944–1949 (London, 2004).
Benamou, Georges-Marc. Jeune homme, vous ne savez pas de quoi vous parlez (Paris, 2001).
Berr, Helene. Journal, tr. David Bellos (London, 2008).
Bettencourt, Pierre. Les désordres de la mémoire. Exhibition catalog (Rouen, 1998).
Bourdrel, Philippe. La Cagoule, 30 ans de complot (Paris, 1970).
Bromberger, Merry. Comment ils ont fait fortune (Paris, 1954).
Callil, Carmen. Bad Faith (London, 2006).
Campbell, Lady Colin (tr.). The Lady’s Dressing-Room (London, 1892).
Carter, Ernestine. With Tongue in Chic (London, 1974).
Chapkis, Wendy. Beauty Secrets (London, 1986).
Charbonneau, Henry. Les mémoires de Porthos (Paris, 1967).
Coignard, Sophie, and Marie-Thérèse Guichard. Les Bonnes fréquentations: histoire secrète des réseaux d’influence (Paris, 1997).
Cooper, Wendy. Hair (London, 1971).
Corson, Richard. Fashions in Make-up: From Ancient to Modern Times (London, 1972).
———. Fashions in Hair (London, 1980).
Coston, Henry. Le Retour des 200 familles (Paris, 1960).
———. Dictionnaire des dynasties bourgeoises et de la monde des affaires (Paris, 1975).
Curie, Eve. Madame Curie (Paris, 1938).
Dalle, François. L’Aventure L’Oréal (Paris, 2001).
Davis, Kathy. Reshaping the Female Body: The Dilemma of Cosmetic Surgery (New York, 1995).
Delluc, Brigitte and Gilles. Jean Filliol, du Périgord à la Cagoule (Périgueux, 2006).
Désert, Joseph. Toute la vérité sur l’affaire de La Cagoule (Paris, 1946).
Dunlap, Knight. Personal Beauty and Racial Betterment (London, 1920).
Etcoff, Nancy. Survival of the Prettiest: The Science of Beauty (London, 1999).
Fabe, Maxene. Beauty Millionaire: The Life of Helena Rubinstein (New York, 1972).
Finkelstein, Joanne. The Fashioned Self (Oxford, 1995).
Friedan, Betty. The Feminine Mystique (New York, 1963).
Frydman, Jean. L’Affaire Bettencourt (Paris, 2000).
Frydman, Jean and David. Pour servir la mémoire (Paris, 1994).
Giesbert, Franz-Olivier. François Mitterrand: une vie (Paris, 1996).
Gilman, Sander. Making the Body Beautiful (Princeton, 1999).
Guenther, Irene. Nazi Chic? Fashioning Women in the Third Reich (Oxford, 2004).
Harris, John. Enhancing Evolution (Princeton, 2007).
Horton, Rosalind, and Sally Simmons. Women Who Changed the World (London, 2007).
Humphrey, Nicholas. The Mind Made Flesh: Essays from the Frontiers of Psychology and Evolution (Oxford, 2002).
Jouve, Pierre, and Ali Magoudi. François Mitterand: portrait total (Paris, 1986)
Judt, Tony. Past Imperfect: French Intellectuals, 1944–1956 (Berkeley, 1992).
Kaplan, Alice. The Collaborator (Chicago, 2000).
Kitson, Simon. The Hunt for Nazi Spies (London, 2008).
Koestler, Arthur. Scum of the Earth (London, 1941).
Kolboom, Ingo. La Revanche des patrons: le patronat français face au Front populaire (Paris, 1986).
Lacroix-Riz, Annie. Industriels et banquiers sous l’Occupation. La collaboration économique avec le Reich et Vichy (Paris, 1999).
Lambert, Ellen Zetzel. The Face of Love: Feminism and the Beauty Question (Boston, 1995).
Levison, Sarah Rachel (Madame Rachel). Beautiful for Ever! (London, 1863).
———. The Extraordinary Life and Trial of Madame Rachel at the Central Criminal Court (London, 1868).
Lewis, Alfred Allan, and Constance Wordsworth. Miss Elizabeth Arden (New York, 1973).
McKnight, Gerald. The Skin Game (London, 1989).
Marrus, Michael R., and Robert O. Paxton. Vichy France and the Jews (New York, 1981).
Meade, L. T. The Sorceress of the Strand (London, 1903).
Meredith, Bronwen. A Change for the Better (London, 1988).
Milesi, Gabriel. Les Nouvelles 2000 familles: les dynasties de l’argent, du pouvoir financier et économique (Paris, 1990).
Monzie, Anatole de. La Saison des juges (Paris, 1943).
Nicholson, P. T., and I. Shaw, eds. Ancient Egyptian Materials and Technology (Cambridge, U.K., 2000).
O’Higgins, Patrick. Madame: An Intimate Biography of Helena Rubinstein (London, 1971).
Orbach, Susie. Bodies (London, 2009).
Ovid. Ars amatoria.
Paxton, Robert Owen. Vichy France: Old Guard, and New Order. 1940–1944 (New York, 1982).
Péan, Pierre. Le Mystérieux Docteur Martin (Paris, 1993).
———. Une Jeunesse française (Paris, 1994).
———. Vies et morts de Jean Moulin (Paris, 1998).
Peiss, Kathy. Hope in a Jar (New York, 1998).
Perrier, Marc. La véritable saison des juges (Paris, 1944).
Perrot, Philippe. Le Travail des apparences: les transformations du corps féminin XVIIIe–XIXe siècle (Paris, 1984).
Phillips, M. C. Skin Deep (Garden City, N.J., 1934).
Poncet, Charles. Nestlé, Bettencourt et les Nazis (Vevey, Switzerland, 1995).
Potton, Ariste. On a trouvé un chef (Lyon, 1937).
Rochebrune, Renaud de, and Jean-Claude Hazéra. Les Patrons sous l’Occupation, volumes 2 and 3 (Paris, 1995).
Roughead, William. Rascals Revisited (London, 1940).
Rubinstein, Helena. The Art of Feminine Beauty (New York, 1930).
———. My Life for Beauty (London, 1964).
Rudofsky, Bernard. Are Clothes Modern? (New York, 1947).
Schueller, Eugène. Le Deuxième salaire (Paris, 1939).
———. La Révolution de l’économie (Paris, 1941).
———. Faire Vivre—esquisse d’une economie proportionelle (privately printed; Paris, 1945).
———. L’Impôt sur l’énergie (Paris, 1957).
Slesin, Suzanne. Over the Top: Helena Rubinstein, Extraordinary Style, Beauty, Art, Fashion, Design (New York, 2003).
Steiner, Wendy. The Trouble with Beauty (London, 2001).
Stevenson, Karen. “Hairy Business,” in Ruth Holliday and John Hassard, eds., Contested Bodies (London, 2001).
Thomas, Martin. The French Empires at War, 1940–45 (Manchester, U.K., 1998).
Tournous, J.-R. L’Histoire secrète (Paris, 1965).
Trano, Stéphane. Mitterrand, les amis d’abord (Paris, 2000).
Turner, Bryan. The Body and Society (Oxford, 1984).
Uzanne, Octave. Etudes de sociologie féminine: Parisiennes de ce temps en leurs divers milieux, états et conditions (Paris, 1910).
Vinen, Richard. The Politics of French Business, 1936–1945 (Cambridge, U.K., 1991).
Waitzfelder, Monica. L’Oréal Took My Home: The Secrets of a Theft, Peter Bush trans. (London, 2006).
Walkowitz, Judith. City of Dreadful Delight: Narratives of Sexual Danger in Late-Victorian London (Chicago, 1992).
Webster, Paul. Mitterrand: l’autre histoire, 1945–1995 (Paris, 1995).
Wilson, Elizabeth. Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity (London, 1985).
Wolf, Naomi. The Beauty Myth (London, 1990).
Woodhead, Lindy. War Paint: Madame Helena Rubinstein and Miss Elizabeth Arden (London, 2003).
Articles
Helena Rubinstein
Sunday Telegraph February 1962, serialization of HR’s memoir Just For Luck:
Feb. 4, pp. 12–13: “The Demons That Still Drive Me.”
Feb. 11, p. 15: “M. Poiret Takes Offence—and Tears My Dress in Strips.”
Feb. 18, p. 14: “Timing, Luck—and £2m. Profit.”
Vogue (U.S.) February 15, 1915, pp. 20–23, “A Famous European ‘House of Beauty’ Announces the Opening of Its Doors in New York.”
Vogue (U.S.) May 1, 1915, pp. 82–84, “On Her Dressing-Table.”
Beerbohm, Max. “A Defence of Cosmetics,” The Yellow Book 1 (April 1894).
Clifford, Marie J. “Helena Rubinstein’s Beauty Salons, Fashion, and Modernist Display,” Winterthur Portfolio 38 (2003), pp. 83–108.
Flügel, J. C. “Clothes Symbolism and Clothes Ambivalence: The Psychology of Clothes,” International Journal of Psychoanalysis 10 (1929), pp. 205–17.
Gray, Allison. “People Who Want to Look Young and Beautiful,” American Magazine, December 1922, pp. 32–33.
Johnson, Alva. “Testimonials, COD—Some Light on Big Names in Advertising” and “Testimonials, Wholesale,” Outlook and Independent, March 18, 1931. pp. 398–99, and March 25, 1931, pp. 434–35.
Keiffer, Elaine Brown. “Madame Rubinstein, the Little Lady from Krakow,” Life, July 21, 1941, pp. 37–45.
Miller, Elizabeth-Carolyn. ‘ “Shrewd Woman of Business’: Madame Rachel, Victorian Consumerism, and L. T. Meade’s ‘The Sorceress of the Strand,” ’ Victorian Literature and Culture 34 (2006), pp. 311–32.
Swerling, Jo. “Beauty in Jars and Vials,” The New Yorker, June 30, 1928, pp. 20–23.
Schueller
Egoïste, no. 10 (1987), interview with Liliane Bettencourt.
Le Monde, February 1995 interview with Serge Klarsfeld.
Le Matin, August 27, 1941, interview with Eugène Deloncle.
La Gerbe, September 25, 1941, interview with Deloncle.
Coiffure de Paris, 1909, passim.
Noiville, Florence. “L’Oréal, une histoire au parfum de soufre,” Le Monde, January 17, 1997.
Thomas, Martin. “Giraud,” French History, 10, no. 1 (1996), pp. 86–111.
Tumblety, Joan. “Civil Wars of the Mind: The Commemoration of the 1789 Revolution in the Parisian Press of the Radical Right,” European History Quarterly 30, no. 3 (July 2000).
Votre Beauté, 1929–45, passim.
Archives
Archives Nationales de France (CARAN): Dossier instruit par la cour de justice du département de la Seine contre Eugène Schueller (cote Z 6 N L 11.108).
Fonds Majestic (cote AJ40).
Archives de Paris: Fonds du comité régional interprofessionel d’épuration. Affaire Schueller (cote 901/64/1–282).
Centre de Documentation Juive Contemporaine, Paris.
Curie Archives, Paris: BnF Mss. Archives Joliot-Curie (déposées à l’Institut Curie) NAF 28161
Letters from Helena Rubinstein to Rosa Hollay, 1914–28, now in the possession of James Bulmer.
Skin Deep correspondence, Consumers’ Research Collection, Special Collections, Rutgers University.