The Garden Route

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High on the must-see list of most visitors to Cape Town is the Garden Route, named for the year-round greenery of its forests and lagoons along the coast. It stretches some 200km from Mossel Bay to just beyond Plettenberg Bay.

Mossel Bay

Beyond the world’s largest gas-to-oil refinery you’ll find beaches, gnarly surfing spots and a host of activities including shark-cage diving and coastal hikes.

George

The largest town along the Garden Route boasts attractive old buildings, world-class golf courses and superb mountain drives.

Wilderness

Living up to its name, Wilderness is blessed with gorgeous beaches, bird-rich estuaries and sheltered lagoons backed by densely forested hills.

Knysna

Embracing an exquisitely beautiful lagoon and surrounded by ancient forests, Knysna is a place for hiking, sailing, mountain biking or sampling the home-grown oysters and local beer.

Plettenberg Bay

The verdant mountains, white sand and crystal-blue waters make ‘Plett’ one of the country’s top tourist spots, loved by locals and foreign visitors alike.

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Mossel Bay

Explore

Start your explorations at the excellent Dias Museum Complex to gain insight into Mossel Bay’s role in South African history. From here it’s a short hop to the harbour to take a dolphin-watching boat trip or enjoy a seafood braai (barbecue) at the water’s edge. Head to Santos Beach to swim or relax, or peruse the restaurants and bars of Marsh St, slowly ambling to the Point. Here you’ll find a laid-back vibe and restaurants overlooking the ocean, as well as the Cape St Blaize caves and lighthouse. Spend a second day shark-cage diving, surfing, skydiving or hiking along the coast.

The Best…

ASight Dias Museum Complex

APlace to Eat Kaai 4

APlace to Drink Blue Shed Coffee Roastery

Top Tip

Send a postcard home from South Africa’s oldest ‘postbox’ – a tree inside the Dias Museum Complex where sailors left messages from as early as the 16th century. All letters get a special postmark.

Getting There & Away

ABus Translux (www.translux.co.za), Greyhound (www.greyhound.co.za) and Intercape (www.intercape.co.za) each operate regular services from Cape Town (R380, six hours, twice daily).

Need to Know

Area Code 044

ALocation Mossel Bay is 390km east of Cape Town along the N2.

A Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-691 2202; www.visitmosselbay.co.za; Market St; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun)

1Sights

icon-top-choiceoDias Museum ComplexMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.diasmuseum.co.za; Market St; adult/child R20/5; icon-hoursgifh9am-4.45pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3.45pm Sat & Sun; icon-parkgifp)

This excellent museum includes the spring from which Bartholomeu Dias watered the postal tree, the 1786 Dutch East India Company (Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie; VOC) granary, a shell museum (with some interesting aquarium tanks) and a local history museum. The highlight of the complex is the replica of the caravel that Dias used on his 1488 voyage of discovery (adult/child R20/5). Its small size brings home the extraordinary skill and courage of the early explorers.

The replica was built in Portugal and sailed to Mossel Bay in 1988 to commemorate the 500th anniversary of Dias’ trip.

Botlierskop Private Game ReserveWILDLIFE RESERVE

(icon-phonegif%044-696 6055; www.botlierskop.co.za; Little Brak River)

This reserve contains a vast range of wildlife, including lions, elephants, rhinos, buffaloes and giraffes. Day visitors are welcome for a variety of activities including three-hour wildlife drives (adult/child R420/210), horse riding (per hour R270) and elephant rides (R820). The reserve is about 20km northeast of Mossel Bay along the N2 (take the Little Brak River turn-off and follow the signs towards Sorgfontein). Bookings essential.

Cape St Blaize LighthouseLIGHTHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; adult/child R16/8; icon-hoursgifh10am-3pm)

There are wonderful views from the lighthouse. Sadly, the St Blaize Cave, dating back to the Stone Age era, is rather neglected and frequented by vandals.

SURFING ALONG THE GARDEN ROUTE

With the water warming up as you round Cape Agulhas, where the Indian Ocean takes over, you can be happy surfing in just board shorts or a short suit during summer. You’ll need a full suit in winter, though. There are good waves along the coast; Mossel Bay and Victoria Bay are considered the best places.

In Mossel Bay, the main surf spot is Outer Pool (left of the tidal pool) – a great reef and point break. There’s also a soft wave called Inner Pool to the right of the tidal pool. Elsewhere there’s a good right in a big swell called Ding Dangs that’s best at a lowish tide, especially in a southwesterly or easterly wind. It might be a bit of a hassle paddling out, but the right is better than the left.

You might find something at Grootbrak and Kleinbrak, but better is Herold’s Bay. When it’s on, there’s a left-hand wedge along the beach, and it’s unusual in that it works in a northwesterly wind.

Best of all though is Victoria Bay, which has the most consistent breaks along this coast. It’s perfect when the swell is about 1m to 2m and you get a great right-hander.

A little further along is Buffalo Bay (Buffel’s Bay) where there’s another right-hand point. Buffalo Bay is at one end of Brenton Beach; at the northern end, you’ll find some good peaks, but watch out for sharks.

On to Plettenberg Bay: avoid Robberg Peninsula as that’s home to a seal colony. But the swimming area at Robberg Beach (where the lifeguards are stationed) can have some good waves if the swell isn’t too big. Central Beach has one of the best known waves, the Wedge, which is perfect for goofy-footers. Lookout Beach can have some sandbanks and the Point can be good, but there’s a lot of erosion here and the beach is slowly disappearing. Watch out for rip currents, especially when there are no lifeguards on duty.

5Eating & Drinking

icon-top-choiceoKaai 4BRAAI

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.kaai4.co.za; Mossel Bay Harbour; mains R30-95; icon-hoursgifhlunch & dinner)

Boasting one of Mossel Bay’s best locations, this low-key restaurant has picnic tables on the sand overlooking the ocean. Most of the dishes – including stews, burgers, boerewors (farmer's sausage) and some seafood – are cooked on massive fire pits and there's local beer on tap.

Café HavanaINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.cafehavana.co.za; 38 Marsh St; mains R50-110; icon-hoursgifhbreakfast, lunch & dinner; icon-wifigifW)

A long-running Cuban-themed restaurant that's as popular as ever. Stews, steaks and seafood all make it on to the menu and there's a good cocktail list. It stays open late and is the best place for some after-hours action.

Big BluINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Point Rd; mains R50-95)

This ramshackle place right on the rocks at the Point is great for a sundowner and serves burgers, seafood and steaks.

Villa PointSOUTH AFRICAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-691 1923; 11 Marsh St; mains R105-180; icon-hoursgifhlunch & dinner Mon-Sat)

A well-respected restaurant based in an old house. The menu is small and includes plenty of South African meat, including rack of lamb, kudu osso bucco and the very popular springbok shank.

icon-top-choiceoBlue Shed Coffee RoasteryCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; 33 Bland St; icon-hoursgifh6.30am-8pm; icon-wifigifW)

Enjoy great coffee and homemade cakes at this funky cafe with eclectic decor and ocean views from the deck. It's an awesome spot to spend a couple of hours chilling or playing vinyl on the old-school jukebox.

2Sports & Activities

Oystercatcher TrailHIKING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.oystercatchertrail.co.za; full board/self-catering from R3200/5400)

Hikers can tackle this fabulous coastal trail in three or four days. It follows the coastline from Mossel Bay to Dana Bay via Cape St Blaize, where you’re likely to see the endangered black oystercatcher.

BilleonSURFING

( GOOGLE MAP ; www.billeon.com; 2hr lesson R350)

Mossel Bay is well known for its surf, and this company offers lessons for beginners. It also runs three-hour sandboarding experiences (R380).

Point of Human OriginsCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%044-691 0051; www.humanorigin.co.za; tours R395)

Led by an archaeology professor, this fascinating four-hour tour includes a hike to the Pinnacle Point Caves, where discoveries have shed light on human life from 162,000 years ago.

RomonzaBOAT TOUR

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-690 3101; 1hr boat trips R140)

Regular boat trips head out to Seal Island to see the seals, birds and dolphins that frequent these waters. In late winter and spring this outfit also runs whale-watching trips (R640, 2½ hours).

White Shark AfricaDIVING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-691 3796; www.whitesharkafrica.com; 7 Church St; dives R1350)

Full-day cage-diving trips to view great white sharks, including lunch, drinks and snacks.

Skydive Mossel BayADVENTURE SPORTS

(icon-phonegif%082 824 8599; www.skydivemosselbay.com; Mossel Bay Airfield; from R2000)

Tandem skydives start from 3000m and when the weather and tides cooperate you get to land on Diaz Beach.

4Sleeping

There are three municipal caravan parks in town. Bakke ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-690 3501, 044-691 2915; Santos Beach; camping per site from R210, chalet from R520) and Santos ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-690 3501, 044-691 2915; Santos Beach; camping per site from R210) are next to each other on pretty Santos Beach; Bakke is the one with chalets. Punt ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-690 3501, 044-691 2915; camping per site R210) is on the Point and very close to the surf. Prices rise steeply in December and January.

Mossel Bay BackpackersBACKPACKERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-691 3182; www.mosselbayhostel.co.za; 1 Marsh St; dm R140-160, d without/with bathroom R380/450; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

This well-run and long-established backpackers has swallowed the adjoining guesthouse, meaning there are some excellent en suite rooms on offer alongside dorms and basic doubles. There's even a honeymoon suite, complete with spa bath. Staff can arrange all sorts of activities.

icon-top-choiceoPoint Village HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-690 3156; www.pointvillagehotel.co.za; 5 Point Rd; s/d R500/840)

The quirky, fake lighthouse on this exceptionally well priced hotel’s exterior is a sign of what’s inside: a range of fun, funky, bright rooms and friendly service. Rooms have a kitchenette and some have balconies. There are also two- and three-bedroom apartments with good sea views (R1800).

Point HotelHOTEL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-691 3512; www.pointhotel.co.za; Point Rd; s/d R1285/1710; icon-wifigifW)

This modern hotel boasts a spectacular location, right above the wave-pounded rocks at the Point. There’s a decent restaurant (mains R60 to R120) and the spacious rooms have balconies with ocean views – request a south-facing room for the best vistas.

GARDEN ROUTE RETREATS

As one of the most popular tourist areas in the country, parts of the Garden Route can get pretty crowded, especially during South African school holidays. Escape to a hidden lodge to avoid the throngs.

Eight Bells Mountain InnLODGE

(icon-phonegif%044-631 0000; www.eightbells.co.za; s/d from R750/1200; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifsicon-familygifc)

This country inn is 35km north of Mossel Bay on Rte 328 to Oudtshoorn (50km). It’s in a lovely mountain setting at the foot of the Robinson Pass and its large grounds have something for everyone from children to squash players. You’ll find a variety of rooms; the rondavels (round huts with conical roofs) are fun. There’s a tea garden and restaurant, and opportunities to hike and ride horses on the property. Prices rise sharply during school holidays.

icon-top-choiceoHog HollowLODGE

(icon-phonegif%044-534 8879; www.hog-hollow.com; Askop Rd, The Crags; s/d incl breakfast R2170/3100; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

Hog Hollow, 18km east of Plett along the N2, provides delightful accommodation in African-art-decorated units overlooking the forest. Each unit comes with a private wooden deck and hammock. You can walk to Monkeyland from here; staff will collect you if you don’t fancy the walk back.

Phantom Forest Eco-ReserveLODGE

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-386 0046; www.phantomforest.com; Phantom Pass Rd; s/d from R2935/4275; icon-swimgifs)icon-sustainableS

This small private ecoreserve, 6km west of Knysna, comprises 14 elegantly decorated tree houses built with sustainable materials. Various activities, including nature walks, are available. If nothing else, visit for the lavish six-course African dinner (R400) served in the Forest Boma daily; booking is essential.

George

Explore

For many people, George is little more than a transport hub, but there are gems to be found in the Garden Route’s largest town. Start at the museum for a little historical perspective, then pick up a brochure from the tourist office detailing a self-guided historical walk. Stroll down York St to the diminutive St Mark’s Cathedral and the ‘Slave Tree’. Spend the afternoon playing golf or exploring the surrounding Outeniqua mountains on foot, by car or on the quirky Outeniqua Power Van.

The Best…

APlace to Eat Old Townhouse

APlace to Drink Robertson Brewery

AActivity Outeniqua Power Van

Top Tip

Take a drive south of George to the picturesque beaches at Herold’s Bay and Victoria Bay, both surfing hot spots. The latter has a tidal pool for kids.

Getting There & Away

ABus Greyhound (www.greyhound.co.za), Translux (www.translux.co.za) and Intercape (www.intercape.co.za) operate frequent buses from Cape Town (R380, seven hours).

AAir Airlink (icon-phonegif%0861 606 606; www.flyairlink.com) and SA Express (icon-phonegif%0861 729 227; www.flyexpress.aero) fly from Cape Town to George Airport (50 minutes), 7km west of town.

Need to Know

Area Code 044

ALocation George is 430km east of Cape Town, along the N2.

A Tourist Office (icon-phonegif%044-801 9295; www.georgetourism.org.za; 124 York St; icon-hoursgifh7.45am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

1Sights

George MuseumMUSEUM

(Courtenay St; admission by donation; icon-hoursgifh9am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-12.30pm Sat)

George was the hub of the indigenous timber industry and, thus, this museum contains a wealth of related artefacts.

Outeniqua Transport MuseumMUSEUM

(York St, cnr Courtenay St; adult/child R20/10; icon-hoursgifh8am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat)

The starting point and terminus for journeys on the Outeniqua Power Van, this museum is worth a visit if you’re interested in trains. A dozen locomotives and 15 carriages, as well as many detailed models, have found a retirement home here, including a carriage used by the British royal family in the 1940s.

5Eating & Drinking

Old TownhouseSTEAKHOUSE

(icon-phonegif%044-874 3663; Market St; mains R50-130; icon-hoursgifhlunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat)

In the one-time town administration building dating back to 1848, this long-standing restaurant is known for its excellent steaks and ever-changing game-meat options.

Robertson BreweryBREWERY

(www.robertsonbrewery.com; 1 Memoriam St; tastings R35, light meals R60; icon-hoursgifh10am-7pm Mon-Sat)

There's not a lot to keep you occupied in George, so this family-run microbrewery is a welcome addition. Sip a taster tray of the six staple beers brewed on-site and munch on simple platters while admiring the quirky mural detailing the brewing process.

2Sports & Activities

George is the golfing capital of the Western Cape, and perhaps the entire country. There are a dozen courses – including short courses – scattered around the town’s outskirts as well as three golf schools if you’re not quite up to par. The most elite and famous is the Links at Fancourt (icon-phonegif%044-804 0000; www.fancourt.co.za) designed by Gary Player. Little Eden (icon-phonegif%881 0018; www.edenforest.co.za) is a secluded nine-hole course while Oubaai (icon-phonegif%044-851 1263; www.oubaaigolfestate.co.za) is an opulent spot offering ocean vistas from the greens.

Outeniqua Power VanTOUR

(icon-phonegif%082 490 5627; adult/child R130/110; icon-hoursgifhMon-Sat)

A trip on this motorised trolley van is one of the best things to do in George. It takes you from the Outeniqua Transport Museum on a 2½-hour trip into the Outeniqua mountains. You can even take a bike and cycle back down the Montagu Pass.

WORTH A DETOUR

MONTAGU & OUTENIQUA PASSES

The Montagu Pass is a quiet dirt road that winds away from George through the mountains; it was opened in 1847 and is now a national monument. Take some sustenance, because there are great picnic sites along the way, then head back on the Outeniqua Pass, where views are even better, but, because it’s a main road, it’s more difficult to stop when you want to.

Wilderness

Explore

After a brief stop at the tourist office, head straight for that which gives Wilderness its soul and its name: the outdoors. Start with a gentle hike in the Garden Route National Park or a canoeing stint on one of the lagoons. Wilderness is a quieter, more laid-back alternative to Knysna and Plettenberg Bay, but its ultracompact town centre has a surprising number of decent eateries. From here it is a short stroll under the N2 to the beach – but be warned: a strong rip tide means swimming is not advised. After a spot of sun-worshipping, drive out to Timberlake Organic Village to eat at Zucchini; the village is also a great place to shop for crafts and organically grown fresh produce.

The Best…

ASight Garden Route National Park

APlace to Eat Girls Restaurant

AActivity Canoeing on the lagoon

Top Tip

Take a two-hour coastal hike from Wilderness to Victoria Bay, passing through a train tunnel and exploring caves along the way. Ask at Fairy Knowe Backpackers for more info.

Getting There & Away

ABus Greyhound (www.greyhound.co.za) and Translux (www.translux.co.za) operate services from Cape Town (R300, seven hours, two daily).

Need to Know

Area Code 044

ALocation Wilderness is 445km east of Cape Town and sits right on the N2.

A Tourist Office (icon-phonegif%044-877 0045; George Rd; icon-hoursgifh7.45am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

1Sights

Garden Route National Park (Wilderness Section)NATIONAL PARK

(icon-phonegif%044-877 1197; www.sanparks.org; adult/child R106/53; icon-hoursgifh7am-6pm)

Formerly the Wilderness National Park, this section has now been incorporated into the vast and scattered Garden Route National Park along with the Knysna Forests and Tsitsikamma. The park covers a unique system of lakes, rivers, wetlands and estuaries that are vital for the survival of many species. There are several nature trails in the national park for all levels of fitness, taking in the lakes, the beach and the indigenous forest.

The Kingfisher Trail is a day walk that traverses the region and includes a boardwalk across the intertidal zone of the Touws River. The lakes offer anglers, canoeists, windsurfers and sailors an ideal venue. Canoes (R250 per day) can be hired from Eden Adventures, which also offers abseiling (R375) and canyoning (R495).

There are two similar camping grounds in the park with basic but comfortable accommodation, including in rondavels (round huts with conical roofs): Ebb & Flow North (campsites from R150, double rondavel without/with bathroom R280/325), which is the smaller, and Ebb & Flow South (campsites from R150, forest cabins R540, four-person log cottage R1015).

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

SEDGEFIELD FARMERS MARKET

Wild Oats Community Farmers' MarketMARKET

(www.wildoatsmarket.co.za; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-noon Sat)

A Garden Route institution, this farmers market has been operating for over a decade. Get there early to get your pick of the pies, biltong, cheese, cakes, bread, beer, fudge – all from small, local producers. The market is just off the N2, 1.5km east of Sedgefield's town centre.

5Eating & Drinking

BeejuiceCAFE

(Sands Rd; light meals R45-85; icon-hoursgifhbreakfast & lunch year-round, dinner Nov-Apr)

Although no trains ply the tracks any more, this cafe filling the old station building is still a nice spot for salads and sandwiches. In the evenings, traditional South African fare is served.

icon-top-choiceoGirls RestaurantINTERNATIONAL

(1 George Rd; mains R100-285; icon-hoursgifhdinner Tue-Sun)

It doesn’t look much from afar – a restaurant tucked down the side of a petrol station – but Girls gets rave reviews. Try the fresh prawns in a range of divine sauces or the venison fillet.

ZucchiniEUROPEAN

(www.zucchini.co.za; Timberlake Organic Village; mains R60-130; icon-hoursgifhbreakfast & lunch daily, dinner Fri & Sat; icon-veggifv)icon-sustainableS

Stylish decor combines with home-grown organic produce, free-range meats and lots of vegetarian options at this delightful place.

SerendipitySOUTH AFRICAN

(icon-phonegif%044-877 0433; Freesia Ave; 5-course menu R415; icon-hoursgifhdinner Mon-Sat)

Readers and locals recommend this elegant restaurant with a deck overlooking the lagoon. The South African-inspired menu changes monthly but always features original takes on old classics. It's the town's fine-dining option. Bookings essential.

4Sleeping

Fairy Knowe BackpackersBACKPACKERS

(icon-phonegif%044-877 1285; www.wildernessbackpackers.com; Dumbleton Rd; camping R80, dm/d without bathroom R130/400, d R500; icon-wifigifW)

Set in leafy grounds overlooking the Touws River, this long-running hostel is based in an 1874 farmhouse. The bar and cafe are in another building some distance away, so boozers won’t keep you awake. Staff can arrange all manner of activities. If you’re driving, head into Wilderness town and follow the main road for 2km to the Fairy Knowe turn-off.

icon-top-choiceoInterlakenGUESTHOUSE

(icon-phonegif%044-877 1374; www.interlaken.co.za; 713 North St; s/d incl breakfast R695/1100; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

It gets rave reviews from readers, and we can’t argue: this is a well-run and very friendly guesthouse offering magnificent lagoon views. Delicious dinners are available on request.

icon-top-choiceoViews Boutique HotelBOUTIQUE HOTEL

(icon-phonegif%044-877 8000; www.viewshotel.co.za; South St; s/d incl breakfast R3200/4200; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

With bright, modern, glass-fronted rooms looking on to the glorious beach, this hotel makes the most of its awesome location. It's worth paying the premium for an ocean-facing room if you can, though the mountain-view rooms are also delightful. The hotel has a rooftop pool, spa and steps leading straight to the sand.

Knysna

Explore

Timber played a vital role in Knysna’s history so there is no better place to start exploring than in the forests surrounding the town. Hikes range from short strolls to multiday treks. Main St has a plethora of shops and cafes, as well as the quaint Old Gaol Museum. Read up on local history, then head to the bustling, touristy Knysna Waterfront for a seafood lunch and a boat trip on the lagoon. Enjoy craggy ocean views from the eastern head and dine in one of the chic new eateries on Thesen’s Island. If you’re sticking around, take a township tour and indulge in one of the many outdoor activities this region is known for.

The Best…

ASight Knysna Forests

APlace to Eat Ile de Pain

APlace to Drink Mitchell’s Brewery

Top Tip

If you want to stay overnight in either the Rastafarian community or in the township, contact Knysna Tourism and ask for its brochure, Living Local.

Getting There & Away

ABus Translux (www.translux.co.za), Intercape (www.intercape.co.za) and Greyhound (www.greyhound.co.za) have regular buses from Cape Town (R450, eight hours, twice daily).

AShared taxi Catch a shared taxi from the corner of Main and Gray Sts. Routes include Plettenberg Bay (R20, 30 minutes, daily) and Cape Town (R150, 7½ hours, daily).

Need to Know

Area Code 044

ALocation Knysna is 490km east of Cape Town.

A Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-382 5510; www.visitknysna.co.za; 40 Main St; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pm Sat year-round, plus 9am-1pm Sun Dec, Jan & Jul)

30-knysna-cap8

Knysna

5Eating

6Drinking

2Sports & Activities

4Sleeping

1Sights

Knysna LagoonPARK

( GOOGLE MAP )

The Knysna Lagoon opens between two sandstone cliffs known as the Heads – once proclaimed by the British Royal Navy to be the most dangerous harbour entrance in the world. There are good views from the eastern head, and from the Featherbed Nature Reserve on the western head.

The best way to appreciate the lagoon is by boat. The Featherbed Company ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-382 1693; www.featherbed.co.za; Remembrance Dr, off Waterfront Dr; boat trips adult/child from R100/55) operates various vessels and also runs a trip that allows you to explore the nature reserve on foot (adult/child R380/130).

Mitchell’s BreweryBREWERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-382 4685; www.mitchellsbrewing.com; 10 New St; tastings R75, tours & tastings R150; icon-hoursgifh10am-6pm Mon-Sat, tours 11am, 12.30pm & 2.30pm)

South Africa’s oldest microbrewery has moved to bright, new premises on the edge of the lagoon. You can join a tour, or just taste its range of English-style beers in the beer garden. Pub meals (R45 to R70) are also served. Bookings essential for tours.

Old Gaol MuseumMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-302 6320; cnr Main & Queen Sts; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)icon-freeF

Since this region has plenty of wet weather, a rainy-day option is welcome. The main museum is a pleasant complex in a mid-19th-century building that was once the gaol. There’s a gallery showcasing local art, a display on the Knysna elephants and a community art project.

Millwood HouseMUSEUM

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Queen Street; icon-hoursgifh9.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat)icon-freeF

Around the corner from the Old Gaol Museum, Millwood House is a mini complex of museums detailing Knysna’s history. It’s a quaint set of buildings dating back to the town’s booming timber era. This is the main focus of the museum, though it also houses information on Knysna’s involvement in the Anglo-Boer War and details on the town’s founder George Rex.

Goukamma Nature ReserveNATURE RESERVE

(www.capenature.co.za; adult/child R40/20; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm)

This reserve is accessible from the Buffalo Bay road, and protects 14km of rocky coastline, sandstone cliffs, dunes covered with coastal fynbos (literally 'fine bush'; primarily proteas, heaths and ericas) and forest, and Groenvlei, a large freshwater lake.

BelvidereVILLAGE

Belvidere, 10km from Knysna, is so immaculate it’s positively creepy. But it’s worth a quick look for the beautiful Norman-style Belvidere church that was built in the 1850s by homesick English expats. Further on is the Featherbed Nature Reserve and, on the seaward side, Brenton-on-Sea.

NoetzieBEACH

Reached by a turn-off along the N2 10km east of Knysna, Noetzie is a quirky little place with holiday homes in mock-castle style. There’s a lovely surf beach (spacious but dangerous) and a sheltered lagoon running through a forested gorge. The trail between the car park and beach is steep.

KNYSNA'S RASTAFARIAN COMMUNITY

Knysna is home to South Africa's largest Rastafarian community, Judah Square. You can take an impassioned walking tour of the community, which is within the township, with Brother Zeb (icon-phonegif%076 649 1034; tours from R70), an unforgettable local character.

5Eating & Drinking

icon-top-choiceoIle de PainCAFE, BAKERY

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.iledepain.co.za; Thesen's Island; mains R50-90; icon-hoursgifhbreakfast & lunch Tue-Sun; icon-wifigifWicon-veggifv)

A wildly popular bakery and cafe that's as much a hit with locals as it is with tourists. There's an excellent breakfast menu, lots of fresh salads, some inventive lunch specials and quite a bit for vegetarians.

East Head CaféCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-384 0933; www.eastheadcafe.co.za; 25 George Rex Dr, Eastern Head; mains R75-145; icon-hoursgifhbreakfast & lunch; icon-veggifvicon-familygifc)

There’s an outdoor deck overlooking the lagoon and ocean, lots of fish and seafood, plus a few vegetarian dishes. It's a very popular spot so expect to wait for a table in high season.

Olive TreeBISTRO

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-382 5867; 21 Main St; mains R90-170; icon-hoursgifhdinner Mon-Sat)

One of Knysna's more upmarket restaurants is a romantic spot with a blackboard menu that changes regularly. Bookings advisable.

SiroccoINTERNATIONAL

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-382 4874; www.sirocco.co.za; Main Rd, Thesen’s Island; mains R50-130; icon-hoursgifhlunch & dinner)

Inside, it’s a stylish place to dine on steak and seafood; outside, it’s a laidback bar with wood-fired pizzas and the full range of Mitchell’s beers.

Zanzibar LoungeCLUB

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Main St; icon-hoursgifhTue-Sat)

Knysna's top spot for late-night dancing offers a relaxed vibe and a balcony area for lounging.

HIKING THE KNYSNA FORESTS

Now part of the Garden Route National Park, the Knysna Forests are the perfect place for hikers of all levels. At the easy end of the scale is the Garden of Eden (adult/child R36/18), where there are lovely forest picnic spots and a wheelchair-friendly path. The Millwood Gold Mine Walk is also a gentle hike, while the Elephant Trails (adult/child R60/30) at Diepwalle offer varying degrees of difficulty.

For those looking for something more challenging, the Harkerville Coast Trail (per person R210) is a two-day hike that leads on to the popular Outeniqua Trail. The Outeniqua Trail (icon-phonegif%044-302 5606; adult/child R72/38) is 108km long and takes a week to walk, although you can also do two- or three-day sections. The trail costs R66 per night to stay in a basic hut; bring your own bedding. For permits, maps and further information, contact SAN Parks ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-302 5600; www.sanparks.org; Long St, Thesen’s Island; icon-hoursgifh7.30am-4pm Mon-Fri).

There are also plenty of mountain-biking trails – contact Knysna Cycle Works for rentals and maps.

2Sports & Activities

The tourism office has an up-to-date list of the numerous operators offering tours to Knysna's hilltop townships. There are plenty of other activities on offer in the area, including abseiling, canyoning, horse riding, kayaking and quad biking.

Emzini ToursCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%044-382 1087; www.emzinitours.co.za; adult/child R350/100)

Led by township resident Ella, the three-hour trip visits some of Emzini's community projects. Tours can be tailored to suit your interests but generally end at Ella’s home for tea, drumming and a group giggle as you try to wrap your tongue around the clicks of the Xhosa language.

Mad About ArtCULTURAL TOUR

(icon-phonegif%044-375 0242; www.madaboutart.org; suggested donation R180)

A nonprofit organisation that offers 90-minute walking tours to visit various art and education projects.

Knysna Cycle WorksCYCLING

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-382 5152; www.knysnacycles.co.za; 20 Waterfront Dr; per day R200; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

Long-running agency that rents out mountain bikes and supplies maps of the region's trails.

Trip OutWATER SPORTS

(icon-phonegif%083 306 3587; www.tripout.co.za; 2hr surfing class R350)

Offers surfing classes for beginners, snorkelling around the Heads (R300) and boat cruises, as well as a full-on kloofing (canyoning) day trip (R850).

30-knysna-around-cap8

Around Knysna

4Sleeping

Low-season competition between the several backpackers and many guesthouses in town keeps prices down, but in high season expect steep rate hikes (except at the backpackers), and book ahead.

Island VibeBACKPACKERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-382 1728; www.islandvibe.co.za; 67 Main St; dm R150, d without/with bathroom R480/550; icon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

A funky backpackers with excellent communal areas, cheery staff and nicely decorated rooms. There’s a lively bar and a small pool on the deck.

icon-top-choiceoBrenton CottagesCHALET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-381 0082; www.brentononsea.net; 242 CR Swart Drive, Brenton-on-Sea; 2-person cabin R680, 6-person chalet R1380; icon-acongifaicon-wifigifWicon-swimgifs)

On the seaward side of the lagoon, the hills drop to Brenton-on-Sea, overlooking a magnificent 8km beach. The cottages have a full kitchen while cabins have a kitchenette; many have ocean views. There are plenty of braai (barbecue) areas dotted around the manicured lawns.

Under Milk WoodCHALET

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-384 0745; www.milkwood.co.za; George Rex Dr; cabin from R1200)

Perched on the shores of Knysna Lagoon are these highly impressive self-catering log cabins, each with its own deck and braai area. There's no pool but there is a small beach.

Plettenberg Bay

Explore

Plett, as the town is known, is compact and most amenities are concentrated around a single thoroughfare, Main Rd. It’s a pleasant place to begin, lined with restaurants and some decent cafes, good for breakfast or brunch. Of course, the main reason people visit Plett is for its beaches. Start at Lookout Beach, close to the town, where the Keurbooms River Lagoon meets the Indian Ocean. Further stretches of sand await east of town – the main beach at Keurboomstrand is a stunner. Inland you can hike or horse ride through the forests, or get up-close with a range of African animals. Return to town for dinner either on Main Rd or at one of the restaurants overlooking the water. Spend a second day exploring the cliffs and dunes of the Robberg Nature Reserve, and end with a dolphin-watching trip departing from Central Beach.

The Best…

ASight Monkeyland

APlace to Eat Ristorante Enrico

AActivity Hiking in Robberg Nature Reserve

Top Tip

If you’re getting wine-withdrawal symptoms, ask at the tourism bureau for the brochure detailing the region's burgeoning wine route – at last count there were nine wineries, most offering Méthode Cap Classique (MCC; South African sparkling wine).

.

Getting There & Away

ABus Intercape (www.intercape.co.za) operates buses from Cape Town (R450, nine hours, two daily).

Need to Know

Area Code 044

ALocation Plett is 520km east of Cape Town.

A Tourist Office ( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-533 4065; www.plett-tourism.co.za; Melville's Corner Shopping Centre, Main St; icon-hoursgifh9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat)

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Plettenberg Bay

5Eating

1Sights

Robberg Nature & Marine ReservePARK

(icon-phonegif%044-483 0190; www.capenature.co.za; adult/child R40/20; icon-hoursgifh8am-6pm May-Sep, 7am-8pm Oct-Apr)

This reserve, 9km southeast of Plettenberg Bay, protects a 4km-long peninsula with a rugged coastline of cliffs and rocks. There are three circular walks of increasing difficulty, but it’s very rocky and not for the unfit or anyone with knee problems! Basic accommodation is available at the spectacularly located Fountain Shack (4 ppl R875), which is reachable only by a two-hour hike. To get to the reserve head along Robberg Rd, off Piesang Valley Rd, until you see the signs.

You can also take a boat trip to view the peninsula – and its colony of Cape fur seals – from the water. You can even get in the water to swim with seals. Contact Offshore Adventures (www.offshoreadventures.co.za; boat trip R250, swimming with seals R500) to book.

MonkeylandWILDLIFE RESERVE

(www.monkeyland.co.za; 1hr tour adult/child R175/88; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm)

This very popular attraction helps rehabilitate wild monkeys that have been in zoos or private homes. The walking safari through a dense forest and across a 128m-long rope bridge is superb. A combo ticket with Birds of Eden costs R280/140 per adult/child.

Birds of EdenBIRD SANCTUARY

(www.birdsofeden.co.za; adult/child R175/88; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm)

This is one of the world’s largest free-flight aviaries with a 200-sq-metre dome over the forest. A combo ticket with Monkeyland costs R280/140 per adult/child.

5Eating & Drinking

Ristorante EnricoSEAFOOD

(icon-phonegif%044-535 9818; www.enricorestaurant.co.za; Main Beach, Keurboomstrand; mains R90-140; icon-hoursgifhlunch & dinner daily, closed Mon in winter)

Highly recommended by readers and right on the beach, this is the place for seafood in Plett. Enrico has his own boat that, weather permitting, heads out each morning. If you book ahead you can join the fishing trip and have your catch cooked at the restaurant.

TableITALIAN

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; www.thetable.co.za; 9 Main St; mains R70-130; icon-hoursgifhlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, lunch Sun)

A funky, minimalist venue with pizzas featuring an array of inventive toppings.

Le Fournil de PlettCAFE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Church St, cnr Main St; mains R70-85; icon-hoursgifhbreakfast & lunch; icon-wifigifW)

Enjoy a good cup of coffee and a freshly baked pastry in the courtyard or on the balcony overlooking Plett's main road. There's also a small lunch menu, largely focusing on salads and sandwiches.

LookoutSEAFOOD

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-533 1379; www.lookout.co.za; Lookout Rocks; mains R70-130; icon-hoursgifhbreakfast, lunch & dinner)

With a deck overlooking the beach, this is a great place for a simple meal and perhaps views of dolphins surfing the waves.

icon-top-choiceoNguniSTEAKHOUSE

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-533 6710; www.nguni-restaurant.co.za; 6 Crescent St; mains R115-240; icon-hoursgifhlunch Mon-Fri, dinner Mon-Sat)

Tucked away in a quiet courtyard, this is one of Plett's most upscale eateries. The speciality is Chalmar beef, though you'll also find lots of South African favourites including ostrich, Karoo lamb and traditional dishes such as bobotie (delicately flavoured curry with a topping of beaten egg baked to a crust). Reservations recommended.

7Shopping

Old Nick VillageARTS & CRAFTS

(www.oldnickvillage.co.za)

For a bit of retail therapy, head for this complex 3km east of town, with resident artists, a weaving museum, antiques and a restaurant.

2Sports & Activities

Ocean Blue AdventuresBOAT TOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-533 5083; www.oceanadventures.co.za; Hopewood St, Milkwood Centre; dolphin/whale watching R440/700)

Trips on 30-person boats to view dolphins and whales in season.

Ocean SafarisBOAT TOUR

( GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-533 4963; www.oceansafaris.co.za; Hopewood St, Milkwood Centre; dolphin-/whale-watching R440/700)

Boat trips to view dolphins and whales in season. The trips are permitted on 30-person boats.

Sky Dive Plettenberg BayADVENTURE SPORTS

(icon-phonegif%082 905 7440; www.skydiveplett.com; Plettenberg Airport; tandem jump R1850)

This recommended operator offers dives with outstanding views on the way down.

Learn to Surf PlettSURFING

(icon-phonegif%082 436 6410; www.learntosurfplett.co.za; 2hr group lesson incl equipment R350)

A long-running surfing outfit that also offers stand-up paddle-boarding lessons (R150 per hour).

4Sleeping

icon-top-choiceoNothando Backpackers HostelBACKPACKERS

( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; icon-phonegif%044-533 0220; www.nothando.com; 5 Wilder St; dm R160, d without/with bathroom R420/500; icon-wifigifW)

This excellent, five-star budget option is owner-run and it shows. There’s a great bar area with satellite TV, yet you can still find peace and quiet in the large grounds. Rooms are worthy of a budget guesthouse.

Abalone Beach HouseBACKPACKERS

(icon-phonegif%044-535 9602; www.abalonebeachhouse.co.za; 50 Milkwood Glen, Keurboomstrand; d without/with bathroom R500/600; icon-wifigifW)

This upmarket and extremely friendly backpackers is two minutes' walk from a magnificent beach; surf and body boards are provided free. To reach the house follow the Keurboomstrand signs from the N2 (about 6km east of Plett), then turn into Milkwood Glen.

Milkwood ManorHOTEL

(icon-phonegif%044-533 0420; www.milkwoodmanor.co.za; Salmack Rd, Lookout Beach; d from R1520; icon-wifigifW)

A remarkable location, right on the beach and overlooking the lagoon. Rooms have had a revamp and their bright new look has a beachy feel. There’s a restaurant on-site and kayaks are free for guests.

Road Trip – Route 62

If you reached the Garden Route along the N2 and you're travelling with your own car, highly recommended for the return trip is Route 62. Billed as the world's longest wine route, the road begins in the Little Karoo and winds its way along mountain passes before ending in the Langeberg region.

If you're heading back to Cape Town from the Garden Route, first take the N12 from George as it climbs the Outeniqua Pass, ending up in Oudtshoorn. The 'ostrich capital of the world' has a range of ostrich show farms, the interesting CP Nel Museum ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cpnelmuseum.co.za; 3 Baron van Rheede St; adult/child R20/5; icon-hoursgifh8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat) and the commercialised but impressive Cango Caves (icon-phonegif%044-272 7410; www.cango-caves.co.za; adult/child R80/45; icon-hoursgifh9am-4pm). If you're not claustrophobic, take the Adventure Tour (adult/child R100/60) for a better look at the caves.

Route 62 takes you through Calitzdorp, renowned for its port-style wines. There are four wineries within walking distance of the main road. If you're looking for lunch, try Porto Deli (Calitz St, cnr Voortrekker St; mains R70-130; icon-hoursgifhlunch & dinner Mon-Sat, lunch Sun), an authentic Portuguese restaurant on the main drag.

Passing through unremarkable Ladismith you reach Barrydale, an oft-overlooked gem offering stylish accommodation, craft shops and quirky restaurants with a bohemian feel. There are wineries in the area, and nearby is the inimitable Ronnie's Sex Shop (Rte 62; mains R50-90; icon-hoursgifh8.30am-9pm); the fairly dingy, bra-adorned bar here draws a constant stream of bikers and curious passersby.

Finally you arrive in gorgeous Montagu, tucked away in the Cogmanskloof Mountains. Its wide streets are bordered by 24 restored national monuments, including some fine art-deco architecture. There’s a wide range of activities, including hot springs (www.avalonsprings.co.za; entrance R50; icon-hoursgifh8am-10pm), a number of walks and superlative rock climbing (icon-phonegif%023-614 3193; www.montaguclimbing.com; 45 Mount St; 2hr climbing trip R550), as well as excellent accommodation and some good restaurants.

Cape Town & The Garden Route Travel Guide
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