INDEX
Aggsbach Markt, 181
Aggstein, Künringers’ hold, 178
Alphabets, author’s obsession, 245–6n
Altdorfer, Albrecht, 148, 149, 154–6, 259
Alps, the, 10, 18, 80, 82, 92, 96, 134, 135, 149
Andernach, 57
Anne of Bohemia, 271 and n
Arco-Valley, Graf (“Nando”), 136 and n
Aslanovic Bey, Dr. Murad, 206
Aspern, 235
Augsburg, 149; Cathedral, 95–6; Teutonic soldiers, 96–9
Austria, 134, 135 ff.; archetypal schloss, 139–44; Nazi subversion, 195–6; frontier convergences, 235–6; Burgenland, 251; von Schey’s memories, 284 ff.
Bad Godesberg, 56
Balkans, the, 18, 222; Great Range, 251, 310
Bavaria, 67, 93, 130–4, 148; peasant dialects, 121; inn welcome, 122–3; dislike of Prussia, 122; Marcomanni ancestry, 180
Beaufort, Cardinal, 270
Benediktbeuern monastery, 86 and n
Berchtesgaden, 134
Bingen, Christmas hospitality, 63
Black Forest, 31, 50, 53, 65, 92, 275
Black Sea, 18, 92, 163, 222, 309
Blenheim, battle of (Höchstädt), 93 and n
Bohemia, 69, 93, 146, 149, 170–2, 253 ff.; famous past, 170–2, 235, 259n, 262, 270–1; connection with England, 270–2, 271n; The Winter’s Tale, 171–2, 200, 270, 272–3
Bonn, 54
Boppard, 61
Brabant, 31–2
Bratislava, 236, 237–8, 244, 276; Jewish quarter, 244–7; Schlossberg, 247–50, 276, 293 and n
Bruchsal, 174; baroque palace, 71–2
Brueghel, Peter, 156
Campion, Edmund, 271n
Carpathians, 18, 141, 222, 240, 250–1, 276, 298
Čenke, 301 and n
Coblenz, 57–60
Connolly, Cyril, The Condemned Playground, 129 and n
Crete, in 1942, 5, 85, 220–1, 221n
Czechoslovakia, 170–1, 171n, 235–6, 240, 249, 263, 276; hatred of, 294, 295
Danube, the, 18, 143; sighted by the author, 89, 91, 94, 145–6, 222, 274; School of Painting, 149–56, 314;
Danube, the (continued), riverside dwellings, 159–60, 162, 170, 177; fish population, 163–5; tribal history, 167–8, 178–81; Radetzky Bridge, 201; Carnuntum arch, 234; the Marchfeld, 235, 250, 251; the Wolfstal, 235–6, 250; Parkan–Esztergom Bridge, 274, 308; Kleine Donau tributary, 277; at Karva, 299–300
Deutsch-Altenburg, Schloss, 235
Dollfuss, Dr., 144, 195–6, 217
Dordrecht, 29
Elizabeth, Queen of Bohemia, 69 and n, 171, 257, 269
Esztergom, Cathedral and Palace, 307, 313–6; Holy Saturday, 306–16; paintings, 314
Eszterházys, Eisenstadt palace, 251
Europe, Central, historical past, 92–3, 137, 166–8, 178–81; religious intolerance, 262 and n; country houses, 280; high life, 284
Fielding, Xan, D.S.O., 5–6, 21
Forbes-Robertson Hale, Robin, 218
Gainer, Donald St. Clair, 111
German painting, 149–56
Germany, 36–43, 89, 115, 153, 166, 239; Nazi régime, 38–9, 51, 70, 103–4, 132–4, 284; hospitality, 50–2, 72–3, 115; student associations, 67–8; and England, 130–2; and “King and Country” Oxford debate, 131–2
Germany, South, architecture, 96–101
Goch, 38
Goering, Hermann, 38–9
Goodman, Lawrence, 15
Gorinchem, 55; a night in a police cell, 30
Göttweig, Abbey, 187; Schloss greeting, 188–91
Grein, 157–8
Grünewald, Isaak, 148–9; Isenheim altarpiece, 152 and n, 153
Guelderland, 32–3
Habsburgs, 206 and n, 227–8, 238, 260, 262, 263, 267–8, 294
Hainburg, 235
Hašek, Jaroslav, Good Soldier Švejk, 249 and n, 266, 296
Hatto, Archbishop, 61n
Heidelberg, 67–9; the Palatinate, 68–70; a Nazi fanatic, 70, 130
Heydte, Baron (Einer) von der, 219–20; Daedalus Returned, 221n
Hitler, Adolf, 38–9, 40, 70, 132–4; German dislike, 51; suppresses student cults, 68n
Hohenaschau, 115
Holland, 25–37; picture/reality identity, 33–4
Holy Roman Empire, 98, 99–100, 166, 228, 258–9, 270–1
Hook of Holland, 25–8
Horace, 85–6; Ad Thaliarchum, 85
Hungary, 190, 206, 222, 235–6, 249; equestrianism, 226–7; Great Plain, 222, 240; Porta Hungarica, 250; the author at the entrance, 274, 300, 307–8, 313–6; his recollections, 276 ff.; national feelings, 294–6; Holy Saturday, 306–16
Jews and Jewish quarters, Brati-slava, 244–5, Prague, 269–70; Feast of Purim, 246–7; Hasidim sect, 298–9
Karva, 299–300
Kevelaer, 42
King’s School, Canterbury, 11–4, 46, 123–6
Köbölkut, Maundy Thursday, 296–9
Konrad, Frisian islander, and the author, 199–216 passim; saccha-rine smuggler, 212, 215, 304–5, 305n
Kövecsespuszta, 276–91
Landsknechts, 97–101, 152, 228, 259
Leopold, Duke of Austria, 185 and n
Liphart-Ratshoff, Baron Rheinhard von, kindnesses to the author, 111–5, 135–9, 188
Lipizza, 226 and n
London, in the Thirties, 125–6, 129, 138
Ludwigstorff family, 235
Maas, the, 30–1
Magyars, 235, 237, 238–42 passim, 295–6
Maidling-im-Tal, 188
Marcomanni, the, 167–8, 178, 180, 234
Mäuseturm, legend of Archbishop Hatto, 61n
Mauthausen, 157
Maximilian of Bavaria, at battle of White Hill, 259n
Merwerde, the, 30
Mitter Arnsdorf, a widow’s reminiscences, 182–4
Morgenstern, Christian, 285 and n
Morville, Hugo de, a murderer of Becket, 185–6n
Moselle, the, 58
Mount Ida, 85
Mount Kedros, 5
Mühlacker, 75
Munich, 102–15; beer territory, 103–8; loss of a rucksack, 109–11, 111n
Nagy-Magyar, an evening with the Burgomaster, 277–8; Gipsy women, 278–9
Nazism, 45, 51, 129, 194, 284; National Socialism display, 38–9; SS troops, 103, 105; a fanatic, 70; in Austria, 193, 195–6
Niebelungen landmarks, 107–8, 170, 177–8
Noorwede, the, 30
Nové Zamky, coffee house, 292–3
Oberlahnstein, 60
Palatine Anthology, 69n
Parkan, 308
Perg, 157
Persenbeug, 162
Petronell, 234
Pöchlarn, 170
Poetry and Prose, author’s personal choice, 83–7
Pozony, see Bratislava
Prideaux, Denys Anstice, 15, 16, 19
Prague, 149, 253 ff.; St. Vitus’s Cathedral, 255–6; Riders’ Steps, 256–7; Hall of Homage, 258; Landsknecht century, 259; libraries, 249; the Vltava, 263–4; astronomers, 267–8; Waldstein Palace, 268n
Pressburg, see Bratislava
Regensburg (Ratisbon), 149, 154, 163; Altdorfer’s birthplace, 154–6
Rhine, the, 18; meanderings, 31; Skagerrak Bridge, 46, 47; upstream by barge, 50, 52–8; legend of St. Ursula, 53 and n; historical background, 56–7, 92; riparian vineyards and castles, 60–1; the Lorelei, 62; Christmas Day, 63; the author takes leave, 65–6
Richard Coeur de Lion, imprisonment, 185 and n, 186, 230
Romilly, Esmond, 124
Rosenheim, 115
Rotterdam, 27–8
Rüdesheim, 63
Ruhr, the, 42–7
Saint Boniface, 118–9
St. Florian’s Abbey, 147–8, 154, 162; Grünewald’s altarpiece, 152–3, 153n, 154
St. Martin’s Castle, 113, 135–6
SS. Cyril and Methodius, 296
Salsham-le-Sallows, 8
Salzach, the, 134
Schaffhausen falls, 65–6
Schey v. Koromla, Baron Philip, 274, 276, 301n; reads Proust, 280, 281, 288; character and appearance, 281–3; literary prototype, 282n; European and English reminiscences, 282–8; later life, 290–1
Schirach, Baldur von, 38
Schönbühel Schloss, 178
Schweik, see Hasek
Scott-Malden, Gilbert and Phyllis, 11
Senec, 279
Sered, 279
Seredy, Mgr., 314
Shakespeare, William, 118, 171–2, 200; The Winter’s Tale, 171–2, 200, 270, 272
Sitwell family (Into High Germany) 84
Slovakia, Slovaks, 237, 239–40; national complaints, 295–6; a flight of storks, 308–10
Spain, horsemanship, 226–7
Spengel, Herr and Frau, 67, 71; family, 67–71
Spires, 65; Prince Bishops, 71
Starhemberg, Prince, 217; Home Guard Militia, 144
Steyr, Trout quintet, 168
Stolzenfels, Gothic keep, 60
Stuttgart, student hospitality, 75–82; dinner with a business family, 79–81
Švejk, see Hašek
Swabia, 77, 82, 87–92, 100, 122, 150, 155; a walk in a snowstorm, 88–9; Habsburgs, 185–6n
Talbot-Rice, David, 20
Thirty Years’ War, 92–3, 100, 189, 254, 259, 262, 268n
Thurn, Count, 258–9
Toynbee, Philip, 124
Tratzberg Schloss, 233n
Traunstein, 134
Ulm, 163, 187; the Danube sighted, 89–90; the Minster, 90, 94; battle honours, 94
Ulrich von Zatzikhoven, 185–6n
Var (Vah), the, log-traffic, 287–8, 300
Vienna, 149, 163, 206–7, 285; a penniless approach, 192–4; armed demonstration, 193–4; Salvation Army refuge, 194, 197 ff.; the author sketches for money, 202–12; Habsburg citizens, 206 and n; hospitality, 217–9; Konsularakademie, 219; museum explorations, 222–3, 229; horsemanship, 224–7; Turkish attack, 229–31
Vltava (Moldau), its course, 263–4
Wallenstein, Albrecht von, 268 and nn
Wasserman, Jakob, Christian Wahnschaffe, 282n
Watts, Alan, 12
Wedgwood, Dame Veronica, The Thirty Years’ War, 268n
Wellesz, Dr. Egon, Byzantine plainsong, 246
World War I, 43–5, 51; German attitude, 130, 131
World War II, the author in Crete, 5, 86, 220–1
Worms, 65