CHAPTER 4
“The People from the Sky”

Symptoms of prolonged isolation from women crept
into Columbus’s log. He confessed his fixation with the “island of
Matinino,” said by the Indians to be inhabited by “women without
men”—a prospect that answered the prayers of many a sailor and even
enticed the more circumspect Admiral. According to the local
gossip, newborn baby girls were conveyed to a certain island once a
year, while newborn baby boys were sent to an equivalent
retreat.
The more he questioned his Indian guides on the
exact whereabouts of this island, the vaguer they became about its
location, their evasions intensifying his interest in the matter.
Columbus was never more zealous than when in pursuit of an
illusion. He considered making exploratory gestures, but, he
recorded, he “didn’t care to tarry,” not to mention the way this
nautical detour into venery would be portrayed at home by his
enemies and rivals. Fair weather and brisk wind encouraged Columbus
to put aside thoughts of the Sirens of the Caribbean and to pursue
his northing and easting toward Spain. By sunset, he reported, the
breeze began to die down.
Columbus’s system for marking the days was
eccentric, even by maritime standards. Mariners generally began
their days at noon rather than at midnight, but Columbus preferred
to commence his days at sunrise, at least for the outward-bound
voyage. On the inbound voyage, such as this one, he marked his days
from sunset to sunset. These variations meant that calculations of
his fleet’s day-to-day progress were often irregular, and did not
always agree.
Similar discrepancies and irregularities marked
timekeeping aboard Columbus’s ships. His pilots kept time with a
capacious hand-operated hourglass known as the ampolleta. On
fair days, he was able to correct timekeeping errors by observing
the moment the sun reached the zenith, that is, the highest point
overhead. Then, for a few hours, all was regulated, but at sea,
nothing stayed the same for very long. On heaven and on earth,
everything was in motion.
Never completely breaking free of his medieval
frame of mind, Columbus relied on a traditional canonical schedule,
even at sea. Prime, or daybreak, occurred at 6:00 a.m., Terce at
9:00 a.m., Sext at noon, Nones at 3:00 p.m., Vespers at 6:00 p.m.,
and Compline at 9:00 p.m. These hours were occasionally elastic,
with Prime, usually indicating dawn, observed whenever it occurred,
Vespers in late afternoon or early evening, and Compline before the
men went to sleep. At Vespers, when circumstances permitted,
Columbus called all hands, who read or looked on while prayers were
uttered, and the men of the day watch gave way to the evening
guard.
It was then, in the dying light of day, he saw a
remarkable sight, a booby, the awkward-looking seabird whose name
was based on the Spanish word for “dunce,” known to oceangoing
sailors everywhere. Soon another booby appeared, and then seaweed:
hints and promises of land.
On Friday, January 18, the sea churned with
albacore, one of the few species of fish recognizable to Columbus
and his crew and an encouraging sign that they were approaching
Spain. Repeating sailors’ lore, Columbus expressed the belief that
they, accompanied by a frigate bird, would lead the ship to a
coastal village called Conil, near the city of Cadiz, where they
were supposed to congregate. Or as the sailors might have put it,
the tuna were towing them toward the city’s girls, renowned for
beauty and bawdy repartee. The next day brought boobies and other
pelagic birds, but no signs of Cadiz or its beauties. And by
Sunday, he was yearning for home, imagining the ocean breeze “as
soft and sweet as Seville during April and May,” as it wafted over
a gentle, unruffled sea.
He varied his course between north, north
northeast, “and at times did northeast by north,” making up so much
time that soon Niña was bearing down on Pinta “in
order to speak to her,” by which he meant to apprise himself of
Pinzón’s latest intentions. Suddenly the air turned chill, and he
expected more cooling as he proceeded north, “and also the nights
were very much longer from the narrowing of the sphere.” This
observation is but one of many made by Columbus that demonstrate
that he fully understood and appreciated that the earth was round,
or nearly so, and certainly not flat.
More birds appeared, including petrels, and still
more seaweed, “but not so many fishes, because the water was
colder.” Yet there was no sign of land, and he had scant idea of
his whereabouts in the Ocean Sea or in relation to his outgoing
voyage. Amid the unease, the wind died down the following day, and
with nothing better to do, the ship’s Indian passengers went
swimming in the briny deep, as their more cautious European keepers
looked on from the deck of the Niña.
That night, a revived but variable wind teased
Niña to life, but Columbus and his crew resisted the
temptation to proceed. They were waiting for Pinta to catch
up, yet she appeared crippled. “She sailed badly close-hauled,”
Columbus noted, “because she had little help from the mizzen owing
to the mast not being sound.” For that lapse, the Admiral blamed
his subversive rival. “If her captain, Martín Alonso Pinzón, had
taken as much care to provide a good mast to the Indies,” he
scolded, “where there were so many and of that sort, as he was
greedy in leaving them, thinking to fill the ship with them, he
would have done well.”
Columbus took comfort in the fact that the ocean
remained “always very smooth as in a river,” for which he thanked
God, who apparently still favored him above all others.
So it went for the remainder of January and into
the middle of February 1493. One day, the seamen “killed a porpoise
and a tremendous shark.” By night, the water, “very smooth,” slid
silently past the ship’s hull, shattering the celestial
illumination into glistening fragments.
On the evening of Sunday, February 3, Columbus
tried his luck with the astrolabe and the quadrant, instruments on
which navigators in many parts of the world had relied for
centuries. In its simplest form, an astrolabe consists of a disk
marked in degrees, together with a pointer. It is used to make
astronomical measurements, especially the altitudes of celestial
bodies, and to calculate latitude. Columbus’s instrument was
rudimentary, and he was by no means expert with it. The quadrant,
the other traditional instrument for celestial navigation,
consisted of a graduated quarter circle and a sight. This was
designed to take angular measurements of altitude in astronomy, and
was usually made of wood or brass.
Columbus hoped to take the altitude of the North
Star to ascertain his location, but failed. He blamed rough water,
or, as he put it, “the rolling wouldn’t permit it.” Yet his
previous sentence notes that the sea was “very smooth.” More
likely, he was frustrated by his lack of skill in handling the
devices, even in calm weather. A sophisticated dead-reckoning
navigator who could read currents and clouds and wind with uncanny
precision, Columbus lacked mastery of these instruments. In due
course he gave up on the quadrant and astrolabe, and relied on his
senses, especially his keen eyesight. For all his visionary
qualities, Columbus remained the pragmatic Genoese sea captain,
impatient with the latest navigational technology.
The trades rapidly bore Niña along, and she
covered two hundred nautical miles during a twenty-four-hour period
beginning on February 6. The pilot, Vicente Yáñez, assisted by a
seaman, Bartolomé Roldán, persuaded themselves, and their captain,
that they were approaching the Azores, the westernmost projection
of European influence into the Atlantic. They convinced themselves
that they spied Flores Island, discovered less than twenty years
earlier, and then Madeira Island. But on this occasion Columbus’s
dead reckoning misled him about the position of the two islands and
the position of Niña. He believed himself seventy-five
leagues south of Flores, when he was actually six hundred miles to
the east and two hundred miles to the south of his presumed
location, yet he remained convinced of his interpretation, and
sought confirmation in the appearance of clumps of seaweed that the
sailors associated with the Azores.
The longer Columbus remained at sea, the greater
the divergence between his actual and presumed locations, which
meant the greater the danger. As the voyage unfolded, the ultimate
test of his navigational abilities occurred not in the
outward-bound journey—which was a demonstration of his vision, not
his navigational accuracy, with any landfall in the New World
considered a “discovery”—but on the return voyage, when he headed
toward a specific destination, not a fanciful idea concocted by
Marco Polo or the result of calculations based on inexact
measurement. Not knowing where he was as he commenced the return
leg of the voyage, and resolute in the belief that he was somewhere
off the coast of “India,” he found himself at an enormous
disadvantage as he attempted to retrace his course, and the problem
became worse with every league he traversed. He was lost without
realizing it, just as he had been since the day the soft outlines
of the Canary Islands faded into the mist.

Amid this relatively calm interval during the
inbound journey, Columbus prepared to defend himself against
challenges sure to come from Pinzón, the Portuguese, and other
rivals, by summarizing his exploits for Luís de Santangel, the
Queen’s Keeper of the Privy Purse, to pass on to the Sovereigns.
(It is conceivable that Columbus wrote two such letters, one
intended for each party, but only the letter to Luís de Santangel
has survived.) Published only weeks later, in April 1493, it is
considered the first instance of printed Americana, and perhaps the
most important and valuable.
Columbus’s “Letter on the First Voyage” attempted
to burnish the events of his first voyage. If his diary reads as a
jumbled, frequently contradictory series of impressions made on the
fly, his letter reveals his more considered impressions, those he
expected to secure his place in the scheme of things. From start to
finish, he was determined to accentuate the positive and eliminate
the negative aspects of his voyage. “Since I know you will be
pleased at the great success with which the Lord has crowned my
voyage,” he began, “I write to inform you how in thirty-three days
I crossed from the Canary Islands to the Indies, with the fleet our
most illustrious Sovereigns gave to me. And there I found many
islands filled with people without number, and of them all have I
taken possession for Their Highnesses, by proclamation and with the
royal standard displayed, and nobody objected.”
Although he had no idea where he actually had gone,
he proceeded to explain his taxonomy of discovery: “To the first
island which I found I gave the name Saint Salvador, in recognition
of His Heavenly Majesty, who marvelously hath given all this; the
Indians call it Guanahani. To the second I gave the name Isla de
Santa María de la Concepción; to the third, Fernandina ; to the
fourth, Isabela, to the fifth, Juana, and so to each one I gave a
new name.” How splendid it was to conjure and name a new
world.
On a more troubling subject, he added, “When I
reached Cuba, I followed its north coast westwards, and found it so
extensive I thought this must be the mainland, the province of
Cathay.” Here he rewrote his own history. As his logbook indicated,
he initially believed that Cuba was a very large island, and if
that were the case, it could not be connected to Cathay, or China,
a result that would undercut his promises to the Sovereigns, the
purpose of his expedition, and his cosmography. The explorer did
not want to confront the consequences of his own discovery, and so
he resorted to a convenient fiction, explaining that as he sailed
along the Cuban coast, he saw only “small groups of houses whose
inhabitants fled as soon as we approached,” and stayed on his
course, “thinking I should undoubtedly come to some great towns or
cities.” Worse, the “coast was bearing me northward,” and winter
was approaching, not that he had any realistic expectation of
encountering ice and snow in this subtropical climate, where
persistent heat and humidity plagued Columbus and all the men as
they went out in their wool and linen clothing, while the Indians
went about nearly naked. Pretending that he was fleeing the
cold—and how would the Sovereigns ever know the difference, unless
they had actually traveled there?—he decided to journey south, but
he did not want to carry on in that direction either, preferring to
anchor in a “remarkable harbor that I had observed.” By the time he
finished his little fable about fleeing the harsh Cuban winter, the
Sovereigns (and their advisers) would have stopped wondering
whether Cuba was an island, after all. More likely, it was some
part of “India.”
Feigning curiosity when he was, in fact, avoiding a
reasonable trajectory for his ships, he sent two men inland to look
for “a king of great cities.” He dispatched two scouts to find
centers of commerce and civilization, and three days of
reconnoitering in the wild led only to “small villages and people
without number, but nothing of importance.” More likely, Columbus
deliberately altered parts of his log to conceal his precise
whereabouts from his rivals, and it was possible that he was being
similarly disingenuous about his half-completed exploration of
Cuba.
Rather than pursuing geographical truth, he dashed
away to another island, one that he named Hispaniola. Indians had
told him about it, or so he said. His story was getting better with
the telling, and so he continued to embellish, even when his
journal, with its sense of wonder and ambiguity, contradicted his
letter’s mythmaking.
He portrayed Hispaniola as an extraordinary
opportunity for empire building. “It has many large harbors finer
than any I know in Christian lands, and many large rivers. All this
is marvelous.” In fact, everything there was “marvelous”—the
plants, the trees, the fruit—and Hispaniola itself “is a wonder”
replete with many “incredibly fine harbors” and “great rivers”
containing gold (not really), “many spices” (not true), and “large
mines of gold and other metals” (a flagrant exaggeration).
As with his fear of the Cuban “winter,” only
Columbus could verify these statements. He preferred to evoke
“lofty” lands, sierras, and mountains. “All are most beautiful, of
a thousand shapes, and all accessible, and filled with trees of a
thousand kinds and tall, and they seemed to touch the sky.” Some
flowered; others bore fruit, “and there were singing the
nightingale and other little birds of a thousand kinds in the month
of November.” He wrote on, telling of its rich red soil (true), its
powdery beaches strewn with glassine sand (true), its cooperative
populace, who seemed wholly of a piece with the soothing
environment (hardly), and water of crystal clarity that he had seen
nowhere else (for once, the absolute truth). “You could not believe
it without seeing it,” he exclaimed. Even Marco Polo, also inclined
toward hyperbole, had not remarked on such gentle and beguiling
natural settings, and for the benefit of the Sovereigns, Columbus
wondered if he were approaching the entrance to paradise. In
Hispaniola, “the sierras and the mountains and the plains and the
meadows and the lands are so beautiful and rich for planting and
sowing, and for livestock of every sort, and for building towns and
villages.” And so Columbus wrote on, soothed by the sound of the
sea, encouraged by the prospect of his glorious return to Spain,
storms and struggles all behind him as he evoked the magic isles of
his voyage.
When he turned his attention to the inhabitants of
“this island,” he became more candid, and for those who had not
seen what he had seen, utterly baffling. They were profoundly human
and sensitive, they were savage and dangerous, they flung their
arrows at him, they offered to build a life-size gold statue in his
image, they considered his fleet the fulfillment of a longstanding
prophecy, and they drove him from their land. Their behavior varied
from one harbor he visited to the next. Generalizations about them
were difficult, if not impossible, to make, but he would try.
To begin, they all “go naked, men and women, as
their mothers bore them, except that some women cover one place
only with the leaf of a plant or with a net of cotton,” he warned,
and appraised them as an avaricious Genoese might. “They have no
iron or steel or weapons, nor are they capable of using them,
although they are well-built people of handsome stature, because
they are wondrous timid” and even refused to use the flimsy little
sharp sticks they occasionally carried. When Columbus landed,
“people without number” were drawn to the sight, only to flee.
“Even a father would not stay for his son, and this was not because
wrong had been done to anyone.” In all, they were “timid beyond
cure.” And generous beyond reason. “Of anything they have, if you
ask them for it, they never say no; rather they invite the person
to share it, and show as much love as if they were giving their
hearts; and whether the thing be of value or of small price.”
He described the efforts he made to prepare for
their conversion to Christianity: “I gave them a thousand pretty
things that I had brought, in order to gain their love and incline
them to become Christians. I hoped to win them to the love and
service of Their Highnesses and of the whole Spanish nation and to
persuade them to collect and give us of the things which they
possessed in abundance and which we needed”—such as their young
women, he might have added, if he were to be completely truthful,
which he was not. He boasted that he, the Admiral of the Ocean Sea,
received a “good reception everywhere, once they had overcome their
fear . . . because they have never before seen men clothed or ships
like these.”
He learned to communicate with them “either by
speech or signs,” but no matter what passed between them, the
Indians “believe very firmly that I, with these ships and people,
came from the sky.” The conviction remained unshakeable, and
ubiquitous. Wherever he journeyed, the startled inhabitants “went
running from house to house and to the neighboring towns with loud
cries of ‘Come! Come! See the people from the sky!’ ”
Cheered by the adulation, Columbus portrayed his
empire building in grandiose terms; he proclaimed that he had
discovered the gold mines associated with the Grand Khan, although
the claim was based on his having caught glimpses of a few strands
of gold. As if trumpet flourishes were sounding all around him,
Columbus announced that he had “taken possession of a large town to
which I gave the name La Villa de Navidad, and in it I have built a
fort and defenses, which already, at this moment, will be all
complete.”
In fact, this was neither a town nor a citadel, as
he implied; it was a modest stronghold cobbled together with timber
salvaged from the scuttled Santa María and staffed by
thirty-nine seamen ill equipped for survival in a strange
environment. As the first European settlement in the New World, it
served as a powerful symbol. In his Sovereigns’ imagination, it
would appear as a castle with banners and battlements, a militant
monastery in the midst of heathens. It was, in other words, an
excellent selling point, secured by the hostages he had deposited
there. Columbus insisted that they were not in any danger, and that
they enjoyed the protection of the local king, who “took pride in
calling me and treating me as a brother.” Even if the king
underwent a change of heart, “neither he nor his people know the
use of arms,” Columbus said.
One more thing: he wanted to assure the Sovereigns
that “I have not found the human monsters that many people
expected. On the contrary, the whole population is very well made.”
He admitted to hearing reports concerning “a people who are
regarded in all the islands as very ferocious and who eat human
flesh”—the fierce Caribs, who marauded vulnerable islands and
practiced ritual human sacrifice—“they have many canoes with which
they range all the islands of India and pillage and take as much as
they can,” but even these warriors “are no more malformed than the
others, except that they have the custom of wearing their hair long
like women.” Their ferocity derived from the cowardice of their
victims. In other words, they were not to be taken seriously as
combatants.
He finally bestowed a designation on the people he
discovered: they were Indios, a term derived from the misconception
that they inhabited India. No matter, they were rich in resources
that Spain needed: not only gold, but mastic, “which up to now, has
only been found in Greece, on the island of Chios”—as Columbus knew
from personal experience during his arduous apprenticeship as a
Genoese seaman—together with aloe, rhubarb, cinnamon, and a
“thousand other things of value.” This appeared to be an impressive
tally, but a skeptic predisposed to dislike Columbus would read
between the lines and realize that much was lacking, chiefly gold,
the most important item on the Sovereigns’ agenda. Had Columbus
found abundant gold, he would have emphasized it above all. And, of
course, he had not found the Grand Khan or his empire, no matter
how vigorously he pretended that it lay just over the horizon. And
the inhabitants, who today would be called indigenous peoples, were
not the highly advanced civilization described by Marco Polo; they
lacked the technological, mathematical, artistic, and military
abilities catalogued by the Venetian. Columbus tried to turn their
lack of technological prowess to his advantage; if they did not
have sophisticated weapons, they must be docile. No matter how he
couched his description of them, it was apparent they lacked the
makings of sophisticated trading partners. He had found little of
immediate use to the Sovereigns and their plans for empire.
Nevertheless, his voyage triggered an unstoppable impulse for
exploration, empire building, and greed.
At the time he wrote this summary, he could not,
nor could anyone else, have imagined the immediate consequences or
the long-term implications of this voyage. To him, it was the
fulfillment of a divine prophecy. To his Sovereigns and their
ministers, it was intended as a landgrab and a way to plunder gold.
Instead, it became, through forces Columbus inadvertently set in
motion and only dimly understood, the most important voyage of its
kind ever made.
Columbus signed the document: “Done on board the
caravel,” as he called sturdy little Niña, “off the Canary
Islands, on the fifteenth of February, year 1493. At your service.
The Admiral.” He knew that he was off Santa María island in the
Azores that day, rather than in the Canaries, but his habit of
obscuring his location remained so ingrained that he could not help
but perform this legerdemain even when reporting to his
Sovereigns.
By the time the ink dried, his little ship was
engulfed in yet another tempest.
On Sunday, February 10, 1493, the Admiral and his
crew readied themselves for departure. Even with the help of two
pilots, Sancho Ruiz and Peralonso (or Pedro Alonso) Niño, he wrote,
“the Admiral found himself much off his course, finding himself
much more behind”—that is, farther west—“than they.” He supposed
they were approaching Castile, and “when, by virtue of the grace of
God, they caught sight of land, it will be known who reckoned it
more accurately.”
Birds glided past, leading him to believe he must
be near land. Instead, on Tuesday, he experienced “high seas and
tempest, and if the caravel had not been . . . very staunch and
well-prepared, he would have been afraid of being lost.” The day’s
sailing involved some of the nastiest weather Columbus encountered
on the entire voyage, with lightning bolts shattering the sky. He
hauled in his sheets and “proceeded most of the night under bare
poles” sustaining only a “scrap of sail” into rougher seas. “The
ocean made up something terrible, and the waves crossed each other,
which strained the vessels.”
By Thursday, they were somewhere west of the
Azores, a group of islands that lay a thousand miles west of the
Portuguese coast. As the gale lasted into Thursday, February 14,
the fortunes of errant Pinta became a source of great
anxiety, as Columbus related in one of the most emotional entries
in his diary: “That night the wind increased and the waves were
frightful, running counter to one another, and so crossed and
embarrassed the ship that she couldn’t make headway or get out from
between them, and they broke over her.” Even for an experienced
sailor, few spectacles are as intimidating, or predictive of
drowning, as the sight of towering waves breaking overhead, as if
the turbulent sea were engulfing the ship. In response, Columbus
ordered the mainsail’s yardarm lowered as far as it could go
without its sail being shredded or carried away by seawater roaring
across the deck. When that strategy failed, and the seas became
even more formidable, Columbus “began to scud”—that is, to run
before the storm with practically no sail—“since there was nothing
else to be done. Then the caravel Pinta, in which Martín
Alonso [Pinzón] went, also began to scud before it, and
disappeared, although all night the Admiral made flares, and the
other replied, until it appeared that he could do no more from the
force of the tempest, and because he found himself very far from
the Admiral’s course.” That was Columbus’s last sight of
Pinta. Ships disappeared all the time in violent storms such
as these, among surging seas and stinging rain, blown sideways
between tall waves, and disappearing into a watery trench.
Oblivious to Pinta’s destiny, the Admiral’s
main concern was to survive the night. “At sunrise the wind and sea
made up more, sea crossing more terribly,” and proceeded with the
“main course only, and low, to enable her to rise above the
cross-swell, that it might not swamp her.” He headed northeast by
east for six exhausting hours, traversing seven and a half leagues,
or about thirty miles. Columbus vowed that if they survived the
ordeal, they would make a grateful pilgrimage to Santa María de
Guadalupe, the renowned, inaccessible shrine in Extremadura, Spain,
known as the Powerful Lady of Silence, fashioned of wood from Asia.
They would “carry a candle of five pounds of wax and . . . all vow
that on whomever fell the lot should fulfill the pilgrimage.” For
them, the ritual was a matter of life and death.
In the midst of the endless storm, Columbus, driven
by piety, and possibly driven mad, said that he “ordered as many
chickpeas,” or garbanzo beans, “to be brought as were people in the
ship, and that one [chickpea] should be marked with a knife, making
a cross, and placed in a cap, wellshaken.” Columbus, ever the child
of destiny, went first, placing his hand in the cap, and he “drew
the chickpea with the cross, and so the lot fell on him, and
henceforth he regarded himself as a pilgrim and bound to go to
fulfill the vow.” The terrified sailors devised still more schemes
to perform acts of religious devotion as a way of improving their
chances of survival, their reception in the afterlife, or as
distraction from their plight, which became more grave by the
hour.
“After that, the Admiral and all the people made a
vow that, upon reaching the first land, they would all go in their
shirts in procession to make a prayer in a church that was
dedicated to Our Lady. Beside the general or common vows, everyone
made his special vow, because nobody expected to escape, holding
themselves all for lost, owing to the terrible tempest that they
were experiencing.” Second-guessing himself, Columbus wished, too
late, that he had stowed more provisions, more water and wine, if
only to have the benefit of their weight on tiny Niña at
this moment, but he had been distracted by his quest for the Isle
of Women, where he had persuaded himself he could take on those
precious items. “The remedy that he found for this necessity was,
when they were able, to fill with seawater the pipes that were
found empty with water and wine; and with this they supplied the
need.”
Columbus became convinced that “Our Lord wished him
to perish.” At the same time, he reminded himself of his mission
and the news of his exploits that he was bringing to Ferdinand and
Isabella. The more important the news became in his mind, the more
fearful he became that he would not be able to deliver it, and that
all his discoveries and sacrifices would be for naught, “and that
every mosquito might interrupt and prevent it.” He reflected on his
lack of faith, and yet it had been sufficient to bring him to
Spain, to win royal patronage, and to enable him to overcome
adversity to reach this point, the difficulty of dealing with the
sailors, and their mutiny against him. He had managed, with the
Lord’s help, to prevail. If only he could outlast adversity a
little longer.
To leave some record of his accomplishments, he
frantically grabbed “a parchment and wrote upon it all that he
could of everything that he had found, earnestly requesting whoever
might find it to carry it to the Sovereigns. This parchment he
enclosed in a waxed cloth, very well secured, and ordered a great
wooden barrel to be brought and placed it inside, without anyone
knowing what it was, unless they supposed that it was some act of
devotion, and so he ordered it to be cast into the sea,” his
version of a message in a bottle, his testament for posterity, to
be washed up on the shores of history. (The barrel was never
found.)
As Niña helplessly scudded before the wind,
heaving and lurching to the northeast, his fervent prayers were not
enough to bring him confidence that he would survive the night, let
alone succeed in his mission, or, as he put it, his “weakness and
anxiety . . . would not allow my spirit to be soothed.”
And then, after sunset, “the sky began to show
clear in the western quarter.” The shift in the wind’s direction
offered a shred of hope that he might, after all, survive. “Sea
somewhat high,” he noted, “but somewhat abating.” Several hours
later, after sunrise, the crew sighted a ghostly apparition that
gradually coalesced into a distant landform. Guessing correctly for
once, Columbus concluded they had arrived in the vicinity of the
Azores, while “the pilots and seamen found themselves already in
the country of Castile.”

“All this night went beating to windward to
close the land,” Columbus wrote on February 16, after the worst of
the nightmare seemed to have passed, “which was already recognized
to be an island.” He tacked to the northeast, and then a bit
farther north to north northeast, and at sunrise tacked southward,
to reach the mysterious island, now cloaked in a “great cloudmass,”
and then, to what could only have been his profound relief, he
“sighted another island” lying perhaps eight leagues, or fifty
miles, away. This was, in all likelihood, São Miguel (St. Michael),
with a stiff headwind frustrating his approach. Undeterred,
Columbus laboriously tacked upwind all day until, at nightfall,
“some saw a light to leeward.” Perhaps it emanated from the island
they had first seen—Columbus’s diary is not clear on this point—and
Niña spent the night beating to windward. At this moment,
Columbus’s strength gave out. He had not slept for three or four
days, had been living under terrible strain, with little food, “and
he was much crippled in the legs from always being exposed to cold
and to water.”
On Sunday evening, when the seas moderated,
Columbus rallied and circumnavigated the sanctuary. Niña
dropped anchor, and “promptly lost” the equipment while the Admiral
attempted to hail someone on land. He had no choice but to raise
sail and stand offshore throughout the night. In the morning, he
anchored off the northern coast of the island, “and ascertained
that it was Santa María, one of the Azores.” He was safe, at least
for the present.
After mooring securely in the harbor, and
explaining how he came to be there, Columbus heard that “the people
of the island said that never had they seen such a tempest as there
had been these fifteen days past,” and they wondered how Columbus
had escaped the storm’s fury. The apparently innocent question
concealed suspicion. Was Columbus telling them the truth?
To impress his audience, the Admiral blurted out
his marvelous discovery of the Indies. He proceeded to boast that
“this navigation of his had been very exact”—far from the
truth—“and that he had laid down his route well,” except for
exaggerating his speed and, as a result, the distance he had
covered. At least his guess that he had arrived in the Azores
proved correct.
To save face and avoid the appearance of
accidentally washing up on Santa María, he “pretended to have gone
further than he had in order to confuse the pilots and seamen who
pricked off”—that is, marked with pins—“the chart, in order to
remain master of that route to the Indies.”
His hosts were not convinced, but they cloaked
their skepticism with hospitality. The island’s captain, Juan de
Castañeda (or perhaps his deputy), sent messengers with
refreshments to the ship. In response, “the Admiral ordered much
courtesy shown to the messengers, ordering that they be given bunks
to sleep in that night, because it was evening and the village was
far.” In the midst of these diplomatic maneuvers, Columbus recalled
the vows he had made on Thursday, “when he was in the anguish of
the tempest,” and asked the priest of Nossa Senhora dos Anjos, Our
Lady of the Angels, to say Mass. The fulfillment of this religious
obligation led to a diplomatic contretemps. As the men prayed, the
whole town “fell upon them and took them all prisoners.”
Unaware of the outrage, Columbus impatiently
awaited the return of his men. By 11:00 a.m., they still had not
arrived, and he suspected they had been detained. He ordered
Niña to weigh anchor, and sailed toward the chapel, where a
company of armed horsemen dismounted and prepared to arrest him. At
the same time, the island’s captain “stood up in the barge and
asked for safe conduct from the Admiral [Columbus],” who agreed to
allow him aboard Niña, “and do all that he wished.”
Displaying unusual patience and presence of mind
after his ordeal at sea, Columbus “tried with fair words to hold
him, so as to recover his people, not believing that it would break
his word in giving him safe conduct, because he [the captain],
having offered peace and security, had broken his word.”
As the standoff turned acrimonious, Columbus
demanded to know why his men had been seized, and in the midst of a
pilgrimage, no less. He claimed that the captain’s rude behavior
would “offend the king of Portugal,” whereas in Spain, the
Portuguese were “received with much courtesy and entered and were
safe as in Lisbon.” He offered to show the official letters he
carried from Ferdinand and Isabella naming him “their Admiral of
the Ocean Sea and Viceroy of the Indies, which now belonged to
Their Highnesses.” He had the signatures, he had the seals, and to
prove his point he flourished them at a safe distance. If the
captain chose not to release the sailors, Columbus argued, he would
sail on to Seville, where, the captain could be certain, the
outrage would be reported and his people would be punished.
Santa María’s captain replied that he knew nothing
about the Sovereigns of Castile, was not impressed by Columbus’s
letters, and as far as he was concerned, Columbus should consider
himself in Portugal. His manner, according to the diary, was
“somewhat threatening,” and Columbus speculated whether a rupture
between the two nations had occurred during his voyage. The two of
them, captain and Admiral, continued to posture, with Columbus at
one point threatening to carry “a hundred Portuguese to Castile and
depopulate that whole island.” Columbus returned to his flagship
without the hostages to ride out yet another storm.
The latest tempest proved powerful enough to part
the ship’s cables. After making repairs and filling pipes with
seawater as ballast, Columbus decided to weigh anchor at the first
opportunity. Soon Niña was headed away from Santa María and
all its troubles toward St. Michael. If he could not find better
anchorage—and a better reception—at the neighboring island, “he had
no recourse but to flee seaward.”
It seemed that he could discover a New World with
ease, but he negotiated the Azores only with difficulty. He wanted
only to declare his feat, but he could not find anyone who would
listen. To the Portuguese inhabitants of the Azores, Columbus was
more of a trespasser than an explorer. Only Ferdinand and Isabella,
his sponsors, would properly appreciate and validate his
accomplishments, once he freed himself from the flytrap hospitality
of the Portuguese.
Thursday, February 21, found Columbus again
battling rough seas and high winds as he tried without success to
locate St. Michael, “owing to the mighty cloud-wrack and thick
weather that the wind and sea raised.” Niña came close to
foundering. The force of the storm “amazed” him; in all his
experience sailing around the Azores and the Canary Islands he had
never seen anything like it, and in the Indies, he had sailed “all
that winter without anchoring,” or so it seemed in retrospect. (In
reality, Caribbean storms had on occasion prompted him to ride at
anchor until they abated.)
Sunrise failed to disclose any suggestion of his
goal, St. Michael, and he decided to return to Santa María “to see
if he could recover his people and the barge and the anchors and
cables that he had left there.”
The small humiliations resumed as soon as he
anchored. A functionary balancing on the rocks overlooking the
harbor warned him not to leave. Then a barge bearing “five seamen
and two priests and a scribe” boarded the ship. The seamen were
armed. Columbus permitted them to spend the night on board, having
no other choice. In the morning, they demanded to see signs of the
authority conferred on Columbus by the “Sovereigns of Castile,” and
a scuffle ensued. Columbus related that he broke the deadlock by
persuading the intruders of his authority, and the Portuguese
finally released all the pilgrims whom they had arrested.
Come Sunday, the unstable weather turned fair, and
after taking on food, water, and much needed ballast, Columbus
headed due east, toward Spain and the acclaim he expected. Yet the
closer to home, the greater the danger he faced. Foul weather blew
Niña off course. “It was very painful to have such a tempest
when they were already at the doors of home,” he confided to his
diary. On the evening of March 2, “a squall blew up which split all
the sails and he found himself in great peril.”
As before, the beleaguered men drew lots to select
a pilgrim to pray at Santa María de la Cinta, near Huelva, and once
again the “the lot fell to the Admiral.” There was little time for
discussion, as the storm’s intensity redoubled, and they found
themselves blown not to Spain, as they intended, but toward the one
place they did not wish to go: Lisbon.
And the storm grew still more violent.
“Last night,” Columbus wrote of the events of
March 4, “they experienced so terrible a tempest that they thought
they were lost from the seas that boarded them from two directions,
and the winds, which seemed to raise the caravel into the air; and
the water from the sky, and lightning flashes in many directions.”
He had no time to consider the irony of his situation: he had gone
all the way to the Indies and back, only to face his worst perils
in European waters. Columbus’s many detractors later charged that
the Admiral deliberately headed toward Lisbon under pretext of
fleeing the storm in pursuit of a covert agenda influenced by
Portugal. On the basis of his account, and others, of the severity
of the weather, his agenda consisted solely of survival.
He “made some headway, although with great peril,
keeping out to sea, and so God preserved them until day,” a task
that Columbus said meant incurring “infinite toil and terror.”
Taking on water, barely navigable, guided by her exhausted crew,
Niña approached a landmark Columbus recognized: the Rock of
Sintra, a peninsula north of the Tagus River, which flows into
Lisbon. He had a choice: either attempt to veer off into the storm
and the near certainty of oblivion, loss of life, and the failure
of his Enterprise of the Indies, or enter the river, and so he did
“because he could do nothing else.” He made for the fishing village
of Cascais, near the mouth of the Tagus, and despite the tempest
found anchorage.
The curious gathered onshore, wondering how the
crew had survived the ferocious storm and offering prayers.
Columbus heard from other seamen that “never had there been a
winter with so great storms, and that 25 ships had been lost in
Flanders,” a frequent destination for ships leaving Lisbon, “and
that other ships had been lying there for 4 months without being
able to get out.” Against this background, Niña’s survival
seemed miraculous.
Columbus’s first thoughts were of King João, but
there was no satisfaction in proving the disdainful Portuguese
monarch wrong. Instead, the Admiral invoked Ferdinand and Isabella,
explaining that they had “ordered him not to avoid entering the
harbors of His Highness to ask for what was necessary, in return
for pay.” When the weather cleared, he would be eager to sail to
Lisbon “because some ruffians, thinking he carried much gold, were
planning to commit some rascality.” It would require all his tact
and diplomacy to persuade the Portuguese that he had not been
raiding their protected interests on the Guinea coast—which Spain
had promised to avoid—but was actually returning from the Indies.
Either explanation would incite the wrath of King João.
All the more surprising, then, was the appearance
of the “master of the great ship of the King of Portugal,” riding
at anchor nearby: Bartolomeu Dias. When last seen by Columbus in
1488, this courageous navigator was making his triumphal return to
Lisbon after the discovery of the Cape of Good Hope. At the time,
he enjoyed the great favor of the king who had refused to back
Columbus’s scheme to find a water route to the Indies. But four and
a half years had wrought changes. No longer a captain, Dias was now
second-in-command, or master, of a modest vessel in the service of
the king. And Columbus, the Admiral of the Ocean Sea, had
successfully completed his visionary if misunderstood mission, an
accomplishment that further jeopardized his relationship with this
deeply suspicious king.
Dias impudently drew alongside Niña “and
told the Admiral to enter the gig to come and give an account to
the king’s factors and the captain.”
No, Columbus replied, he would do no such thing,
“unless by compulsion of being unable to resist armed force.” Dias
proposed a compromise: Columbus could elect to send his
second-in-command, but stubborn Genoese that he was, he insisted he
would only go if forced, and “that it was the custom of the
Admirals of the sovereigns of Castile to die before they yielded
themselves or their people.”
Faced with this bravado, Dias relented slightly,
requesting to see the letters of authorization from Ferdinand and
Isabella, which Columbus had initially offered to show. This he
did, and having examined them, Dias returned in the gig to his ship
to explain the situation to his own captain, who, “with a great
noise of drums, trumpets, and pipes, came aboard the caravel
[Niña], spoke with the Admiral, and offered to do all he
commanded.”
By the next day, March 6, Columbus’s exploits were
the talk of Lisbon, and people regarded his triumph with awe. Of
course, both they and the Admiral of the Ocean Sea were misinformed
and confused about what he had accomplished. He had not reached
Asia, as he would have everyone believe. Yet his actual deeds were
even more impressive, and, it would later emerge, more traumatic
and transformative, than his fanciful claims. Instead of
establishing a new trade route, he had discovered a new
world.
Nevertheless, he clinched his argument that he had
journeyed to China by displaying the Indian passengers he had
brought with him, persuading both himself and his public of the
veracity of his claims. He reported, “So many people came from the
city of Lisbon today to see him and the Indians, that it was
astonishing, and they were all full of wonder, giving thanks to Our
Lord.”
At long last a letter came from King João II,
inviting Columbus to a royal audience at a monastery. The
beleaguered discoverer preferred to remain with his ship for the
sake of form and for personal security, but he had no choice but to
comply with the request, “to disarm suspicion.” As an inducement,
“The King gave orders to his factors that everything the Admiral
and his people and the caravel [Niña] stood in need of he
would supply without pay.”
Columbus set out for the Monastery of the
Vertudes, with rain delaying his arrival until evening. The lavish
reception he received was calculated to allay his suspicions, and
he proudly noted that the king “received him with much honor and
showed him much favor.” After the honeyed words came the hard
bargaining. It was a very impressive discovery that Columbus had
made, as everyone acknowledged, but in the process, he had violated
the Treaty of Alcáçovas—was he not aware of that? In this
agreement, made in 1479 with just this possibility in mind,
Portugal exercised rights along Africa’s west coast and the Cape
Verde Islands, while Spain exercised hegemony over the Canary
Islands. And so Columbus’s discoveries belonged to King João II,
not Ferdinand and Isabella, and certainly not to the Admiral, who
suddenly found himself ensnared in negotiations as perilous as the
tempests he had recently survived.
Columbus replied that he had never seen the treaty
and knew nothing of its provisions. He deferred to the Sovereigns,
whose orders to avoid Guinea he had scrupulously followed.
Realizing perhaps the impossibility of verifying where Columbus had
or had not gone on his voyage, and pleased that the Admiral’s
answer acknowledged Portugal’s right, King João appeared to relent,
and replied that he was sure there would be no need for arbitrators
in this matter. The king tried his best to draw out Columbus about
his voyage. What countries had he visited, and who were the
inhabitants? Had he found gold, pearls, and other precious gems?
According to Las Casas, the king inquired “always with a pleasant
face, dissembling the grief that he had in his heart.” Columbus
boasted wildly about his accomplishments, without realizing the
effect his claims had on the jealous king.
Rui da Pina, a Portuguese court historian who might
have witnessed the interview, remarked that the “king blamed
himself for negligence in dismissing him for want of credit and
authority in regard to this discovery for which he first came to
make request of him.” So ran the official version. Behind the mask
of humility, King João meditated on a chilling solution to the
problem of the turncoat explorer. He could execute Columbus; or
rather, he could let it seem that others wished him to be killed.
And the deed could be carried out discreetly, with blame attributed
to some lapse committed by the explorer. In the end, the king
instead treated Columbus honorably before booting him out of the
country.
On March 15, 1493, Niña entered the harbor
from which she had departed on August 3, 1492, with Pinta
following close behind, borne “by a light wind.”
Columbus had completed his mission, as he
understood it, and expected to be treated with the greatest
respect. At last the journey was done, and a glorious future lay
before him and Spain. After the years of waiting, the discovery had
been accomplished quickly, in a little over seven months, with
virtually no bloodshed and with no loss of life, incredibly
enough—nothing except a sunken ship from which all hands had been
rescued, and bruised feelings on the part of the renegade Martín
Alonso Pinzón. Even the threat he posed to Columbus sputtered out
when Pinzón turned up in his hometown of Palos de la Frontera,
seriously ill, and died within days of his return from the sea. The
cause was believed to have been syphilis, and in that case, he
might have caught the disease long before he sailed with Columbus,
and it had lain dormant in his nervous system for years, until it
emerged on the voyage as tertiary syphilis, which would account for
his defiant, irrational behavior. He was, in short, going mad, more
of a danger to himself than to anyone else.
For now, Columbus savored his achievement. The new
lands that he had discovered were closer to Spain and, to hear
Columbus tell it, more benign than Marco Polo’s version. The soil
was fertile, the people nothing like the monsters he had expected
to find. Only the fate of the men stationed at the fortress in
Hispaniola remained unknown.
He planned to proceed to Barcelona “by sea, in
which city he had news that Their Highnesses were, and thus to give
them the story of his entire voyage that Our Lord had permitted him
to perform.” He reminisced briefly about the opposition he had
faced when planning his voyage, and the “opinion of so many high
personages . . . who were all against me, alleging this undertaking
to be folly.” Perhaps his critics, like the king of Portugal and
his advisers, would see how mistaken they had been.
He had been shrewd, he had been tough, and he had
been wily, but most of all, he had been spectacularly lucky. He had
been wrong at least as often as he had been right, most blatantly
about his destination, but he had also been nimble, capable of
reversing himself when it served his purpose. His words, as
recorded in his diary, were emphatic, but his strategy was flexible
and opportunistic.
“Since I know that you will be pleased at the great
success with which the Lord has crowned my voyage,” said Columbus
in the famous letter to his Sovereigns at the conclusion of his
first voyage, “I write to inform you how in thirty-three days I
crossed from the Canary Islands to the Indies”—in reality, an
island in the Caribbean—“with the fleet which our most illustrious
Sovereigns gave to me. I found very many islands with large
populations and took possession of them all for Your Highnesses;
this I did by proclamation and unfurled the royal standard.”
His initial contacts with the inhabitants of the
New World were tentative and respectful, even heartening, he
claimed. “I hoped to win them to the love and service of Your
Highnesses and of the whole Spanish nation,” he wrote. “They have
no religion, and are not idolaters; but all believe that power and
goodness dwell in the sky and they are firmly convinced that I have
come from the sky with these ships and people. . . . This is not
because they are stupid—far from it, they are men of great
intelligence, for they give a marvelously good account of
everything—but because they have never before seen men clothed or
ships like these.”
Still convinced he had reached India, Columbus
tailored his understanding of another major discovery, the island
of Cuba, to suit his purposes. At first, he accurately labeled it
as an island in his journal; later, when he realized he was bound
to demonstrate to Ferdinand and Isabella that he had reached the
East, he recast it as “the mainland,” that is, China, and its
inhabitants as subjects of the Grand Khan. Ferdinand and Isabella
appointed Columbus as viceroy of these lands without realizing they
were creating a monarch potentially more powerful than any in
Europe.