The red-bearded Albanian generalissimo Ibrahim Pasha conquered Syria in 1831 and almost took Istanbul on behalf of his father, Mehmet Ali. He brutally crushed rebellious Jerusalem and opened up the city to Europeans. (illustration credit ill.42)

Mehmet Ali received the Scottish painter David Roberts on his way to Jerusalem: his paintings of Oriental scenes, such as this interior of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, influenced the European view of Palestine. (illustration credit ill.43)

The plutocrat and Jewish philanthropist Sir Moses Montefiore (left) visited Jerusalem seven times and was one of the first to build outside the Old City. In 1860, he started his windmill and cottages (right). He was what Victorians thought a “noble Hebrew” should be like, but he had his secret scandals too: he fathered a child with his teenaged maid in his eighties. (illustration credit ill.44)

Much of the Old City was surprisingly empty in this period. This photograph taken in 1861 by the pioneering photographer Yessayi, the Armenian Patriarch, shows the deserted landscape behind the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. (illustration credit ill.45)