NOT SO BASIC VINAIGRETTE
I first learned how to make a real French vinaigrette when I was eighteen years old and living with a very generous chef in Paris. It was actually his twelve-year-old daughter who taught me. The first thing she did was separate two eggs and put the yolks in a bowl; these were followed by Dijon mustard, then vinegar, then olive oil—fat (egg yolk) followed by fat (olive oil). It’s the Dijon–sherry vinegar combo that really makes this dressing—and those are both fat-free. A shallot puree provides the thick texture you normally get from creating an egg yolk/olive oil emulsion. Use this to dress salads and cooked vegetables—both hot and cold. Makes ¾ cup (6 servings)
4 small shallots
5 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1½ tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped fine
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1. Roughly chop 2 of the shallots. Place the chopped shallots and the water in a microwave-safe bowl, cover it tightly, and microwave on high until the shallots are tender, about 5 minutes.
2. Pour the cooked shallots and cooking water into a blender. Add the mustard, vinegar, and lemon juice. Blend until the mixture is very smooth; pour into a bowl. Chop the remaining 2 shallots very fine; add them to the bowl. Add the parsley and olive oil. Season generously with salt and pepper. Gently whisk the mixture to make a broken vinaigrette (one that is intentionally not emulsified).
3. Serve immediately, or store in a covered container in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks. Bring to room temperature and whisk gently before using.
