Winter
The darkest season is a great one for cooking. It’s true that unless you live in the South or Southwest you’re going to have a hard time putting gorgeous fresh vegetables on the table, but it’s equally true that the early darkness, combined with the warmth provided by the stove, makes this a time when preparing dinner seems most appealing.
These dishes necessarily rely on traditional long-keeping ingredients like legumes, grains, and eggs, with a higher dose of meat and fish than in other seasons, yet the recipes are, as a group, fresh, light, and contemporary.
1.
Egg in a Hole with ’Shrooms
Heat a couple of tablespoons of butter in a skillet and add a cup of sliced mushrooms along with some salt, pepper, and about a teaspoon of dried oregano. Cook until the mushrooms give up their liquid and begin to brown; remove and set aside. Use a biscuit cutter (or a glass, or the lid of a jar) to make three-inch holes in the center of pieces of thickly sliced white bread. Heat an additional tablespoon or two of butter (more butter is better here), add all of the bread pieces to the pan, and cook for a minute until golden. Flip the bread and crack an egg into the holes of each slice, then cook until the whites are just set. Use a wide spatula to remove the bread from the pan. Season with salt and pepper and serve alongside the mushrooms and the center circles for dipping.
2.
Pancetta and Spinach Frittata
Beat four eggs; add a handful of freshly grated Parmesan, salt, and pepper. Cut about a quarter pound of pancetta into small pieces and fry in a tablespoon of olive oil; add a couple of chopped shallots and continue cooking until the pancetta begins to brown and the shallots have softened. Add a bunch of chopped spinach and cook until wilted and beginning to dry. Pour in the egg mixture and cook slowly until the eggs just set. Run under the broiler to brown for a minute if necessary if the top remains runny; serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.
3.
Japanese Egg Crepes
Serve on rice or in soup.
Put four eggs, a teaspoon sugar, a tablespoon of soy sauce, and a little salt in a bowl; whisk briefly. Pour some peanut or vegetable oil into an eight-inch pan (nonstick or well seasoned) over medium heat. Swirl the oil around when it’s hot, and add about an eighth of the egg mixture, swirling again so it covers the pan. Cook till the top is just setting up, then flip and cook for about 15 seconds more. Repeat to make more crepes. Stack the crepes, let cool, cut into strips or roll and slice, and serve at room temperature.
4.
Bacon, Eggs, and Grits
You can also use sausage meat, ham, or Mexican-style chorizo.
Cut a few strips of bacon into one-inch pieces and fry; set aside. Bring four cups of water and a teaspoon of salt to a boil; in a steady stream, add a cup of grits and continue stirring until the mixture begins to thicken, in a few minutes. Remove from the heat, add two beaten eggs (they’ll cook in the heat of the grits), about a quarter cup of cream, and a few chopped scallions. Serve the grits topped with the bacon and some chopped parsley.
5.
Eggs ’n’ Capers
Cook a small handful of thinly sliced onion in butter for about three minutes. Beat four eggs with some salt and pepper, then pour the eggs over the onion; scatter a couple of tablespoons of drained capers into the pan. Cook the eggs as you would an omelet or scramble until they’re no longer runny and just set. Serve on top of toasted bread.
6.
Leek, Sun-Dried Tomato, and Goat Cheese Frittata
Cook the chopped whites of two leeks with a handful of dried tomatoes in two tablespoons of butter, until softened; do not brown. Whisk together four eggs and some salt and pepper and pour over the leeks. Sprinkle with a handful of crumbled goat cheese. Cover the pan and continue cooking until the eggs are set. Remove the pan from the heat and put it under the broiler to brown for a minute before serving.
7.
Peanut Soup
Leftover shredded chicken is terrific here.
In a food processor, combine half an onion, a couple garlic cloves, and a stalk of celery; pulse until a thick paste forms. Cook the paste in butter, stirring, for about three minutes. Add one-half cup of peanut butter (or more), one cup of heavy cream, and about four cups of stock; stir (you might have to whisk) to combine; bring to a gentle boil. Reduce to a simmer; season with salt, pepper, and a little cayenne. Serve, garnished with chopped peanuts and parsley or cilantro.
8.
Cauliflower Soup
You might substitute truffle oil for the olive oil here if you have it.
Cut a cauliflower into small florets, then boil them in salted water until tender, about five minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking water. Put the cauliflower into a blender with a bit of the cooking water and some cream or half-and-half and blend to a smooth puree; add sufficient stock to make six cups. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with olive oil, and garnish with chopped chives.
9.
Chickpea Soup with Saffron and Almonds
Try adding some diced chorizo with the onions and garlic.
In a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, cook a thinly sliced small onion, some smashed garlic, about a half cup of slivered almonds, salt, pepper, and a pinch of saffron for about five minutes. Add a can of chickpeas (or your own cooked; either with their liquid) and four cups of chicken broth or water; use a potato masher or wooden spoon to break down some of the chickpeas. Cook and stir until warmed through and serve with a sprinkling of chopped parsley if you like.
10.
Mixed Vegetable Soup
Try adding a spoonful of pesto or just really good olive oil right before serving.
Put a film of olive oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat and add some chopped onion, some minced garlic, a few broccoli florets, a chopped carrot, and a chopped celery stalk; cook until everything begins to soften. Add a few tablespoons of tomato paste and cook, stirring almost constantly, for another minute or so. Add a couple of chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; use the liquid, too), about five cups of water or stock, and some freshly chopped oregano and thyme, with some salt and pepper; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and add some fresh or frozen peas and a couple of cups of chopped greens, like chard or kale; continue cooking until the greens wilt. Serve with crusty bread.
11.
Zuppa di Pane (Bread Soup)
I sometimes add an egg or two at the end of cooking, giving them a couple of minutes to cook before adding the croutons.
Heat the oven to 450°F. Cut good-quality bread into large cubes; toss with olive oil, salt, and pepper; and toast on a cookie sheet until golden. Meanwhile, cook some chopped onion in olive oil for about two minutes. Add a can of drained pinto, red, or white beans; six cups of stock; and a sprig of fresh thyme. Continue cooking until warmed through. Add a couple handfuls of chopped spinach and the croutons; stir until the spinach is wilted; season with salt and pepper; and serve, topped with a few more croutons.
12.
White Bean Stew
Pancetta or bacon makes a nice alternative to ham; render the meat in the oil before adding the garlic.
Cook some minced garlic in a little oil over medium heat until fragrant. Add a can of chopped tomatoes with their juice, a cup or two of broth (bean cooking liquid is fine), a couple cups of precooked or canned cannellini or other white beans, a handful of chopped ham, and some salt and pepper; bring to a boil. Cook until hot, then add a couple handfuls of spinach, baby arugula, or other tender greens, and cook, stirring, until the greens wilt. Meanwhile, brush a few slices of baguette or other good bread with olive oil, rub with fresh garlic, and toast until golden. Serve the stew on the bread slices.
13.
Chickpea and Zucchini Tagine
To make a thicker stew that you can serve over couscous, just drain the tomatoes.
Cook chopped onion, a sliced zucchini, some ground cumin, a pinch of saffron, and some salt and pepper in olive oil. When the onion is soft, add a can of drained chickpeas (reserving the liquid), along with a large can of chopped-up tomatoes, with their juice. Bring to a gentle boil, then reduce to a simmer and heat through; serve with a spoonful of plain yogurt and freshly chopped cilantro.
14.
Black Bean Soup
Add any cooked meat as you’re heating the soup, to make this heartier.
In a food processor, combine about two cups of precooked or canned black beans with some of their liquid, a teaspoon each of cumin and oregano, and salt and pepper to taste. Puree the beans until smooth, adding a bit of chicken stock (or more liquid) if necessary for a thinner consistency. Heat the mixture, adding a cup of whole beans and enough stock to come to about six cups. Serve garnished with a spoonful of plain yogurt or sour cream and freshly chopped cilantro.
15.
Mixed Bean Soup or Stew
In a couple tablespoons of olive oil, cook a diced onion, carrot, and celery stalk until the vegetables soften, then add about four cups of precooked or canned beans (navy beans, cannellini beans, black beans, pinto beans, black-eyed peas, kidney beans, or chickpeas) with some of their liquid, a couple cups of water or stock, two bay leaves, and a sprig of fresh thyme. Bring to a boil and cook until the flavors blend and the beans are warmed through; add more liquid to achieve the consistency you like. Season with salt and pepper, remove the bay leaves and thyme sprig, and serve.
16.
Lima Bean Stew
Use any tender green you like here; arugula, baby spinach, and dandelion are all perfect.
Cook a package of frozen lima beans in a cup of water with some salt, butter, and minced garlic. When the beans are tender, puree half of them with most of the cooking liquid in a food processor until smooth; add some cream, half-and-half, or chicken broth to thin. Return the pureed bean mixture to the pan with the whole beans and season with salt and pepper. Add a bunch of tender greens and continue cooking until the greens are wilted. Add more liquid if necessary and serve, with a drizzle of good-quality olive oil and crusty bread.
17.
Shrimp Bisque
Shrimp stock is ideal here; make it by simmering shrimp shells in water for 10 minutes or so, then strain.
Bring four cups of shrimp stock to a simmer. Soften a diced onion, a minced clove of garlic, and a bit of fresh thyme leaves in butter until softened. Add about a pound of shrimp and cook for another two minutes, stirring occasionally, until the shrimp begin to turn pink. Stir in a couple of tablespoons of tomato paste, then the stock. Add about a cup of cream, then thin as needed with stock or water; season with salt and pepper, and serve, garnished with chopped parsley.
18.
Quick Cassoulet
This version is far from strictly traditional, but it maintains the spirit of the original and takes less than 20 minutes.
Cook a chopped onion, a couple of diced carrots and celery stalks, and some minced garlic in olive oil for a couple of minutes. Add a sliced smoked sausage and cook for about three minutes more, then add two or three cups of precooked or canned (drained) cannellini or other white beans and a cup or two of chopped-up canned tomatoes, along with a bay leaf, a couple of sprigs of fresh thyme, salt, and pepper. Cover and simmer until everything is warmed through and the vegetables are tender. Toss fresh breadcrumbs with some olive oil, salt, and pepper and toast until golden; serve on top of the cassoulet.
19.
Mixed Bean Chili
You want chili con carne? Just add ground beef to the onion and garlic and cook through before adding the beans.
Cook a chopped onion and some minced garlic in a little olive oil, along with chili powder to taste, a tablespoon or so of cumin, a teaspoon of oregano, salt, and pepper. Add a cup or two each of drained precooked or canned kidney beans, garbanzo beans, and black beans; one or two cups of chopped tomatoes (canned are fine; include their liquid), and some frozen corn kernels if you like. Continue cooking until everything is warmed through; adjust seasonings and serve, topped with grated cheese if you like, and freshly chopped cilantro.
20.
Warm Beet and Goat Cheese Salad
A handful of toasted walnuts makes this even nicer.
Put a few beets in a microwave dish, cover, and cook until just fork-tender (about five minutes). Run under cool water and slip the skins off, then cut into wedges. Mix some crumbled goat cheese with the juice of a lemon, a handful of chopped fresh dill (or a pinch of dried), a couple tablespoons of olive oil, a half cup of plain yogurt, salt, and pepper to taste. Dollop the dressing over the beets and sprinkle with chopped celery (and the celery leaves if you have them), some salt, and lemon zest; serve with toasted pita or good crusty bread.
21.
Seared Scallops with Romaine
Try watercress instead of romaine if you can find it.
Season scallops with salt and pepper, then sear the scallops for a few minutes in butter, turning once, until just browned on both sides. Drizzle a bunch of romaine lettuce with some olive oil, freshly squeezed lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Sprinkle the scallops with a bit more freshly squeezed lemon juice (some zest is nice here too) and some chopped parsley, and serve over the dressed lettuce with the pan juices.
22.
Date, Bacon, and Bean Salad
Arugula or watercress works best here, but endive, escarole, frisée, and so on, are all good.
Cut some bacon into one-inch pieces and fry until browned; drain off most of the fat. Add a can of drained cannellini beans to the bacon along with a handful or more of chopped pitted dates; continue cooking until everything is just warm. Serve over a big bed of bitter greens with good-quality whole grain bread.
23.
Scallop and Citrus Salad
Whisk together about a quarter cup of olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of freshly squeezed orange juice, a dash of balsamic vinegar, salt, and pepper; set aside. Peel a couple of small oranges and separate them into segments. Slice some grape tomatoes in half and dice a small red onion. Toss about a pound of bay scallops with some salt and pepper. Sear the scallops and onion in two tablespoons of butter until no longer translucent and just browning, about three minutes; squeeze orange juice over all. Combine the orange segments and tomatoes with mixed greens and toss with the dressing; serve the scallops and onion with their juices on top of the salad.
24.
Raw Beet Salad
Peel four or five medium beets and a couple of shallots; combine them in a food processor, pulsing until shredded but not pureed. Toss with olive oil, sherry vinegar, Dijon mustard, salt, and pepper. Add minced parsley, chives, tarragon, or dill and serve on top of greens or with toasted pita triangles.
25.
Warm Cabbage Salad with Bacon
You can serve this over greens, like arugula, or not; I sometimes add a couple handfuls of homemade croutons to this.
Chop a few slices of bacon and cook until brown. Meanwhile, use a food processor to shred a small head of red cabbage and a red onion. Add them to the bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are wilting. Add a tablespoon of mustard seeds, two tablespoons of sugar, and a quarter cup of red wine vinegar; continue cooking until the cabbage is tender and the liquid has evaporated. Adjust the seasonings and serve.
26.
Avocado, Citrus, and Radicchio Salad
Peel an orange and separate it into segments. Slice an avocado or two; cut a head of radicchio into quarter-inch-thick segments. Arrange the orange, avocado, and radicchio slices on a plate; drizzle with olive oil and any mild vinegar, like rice or Champagne. Season with salt and pepper, garnish with freshly chopped mint, and serve.
27.
White Salad
You can add a handful or two of raisins for a bit of sweetness if you like.
Blanch cauliflower florets in salted, boiling water for about two minutes; drain and shock in ice water to stop the cooking. Chop a small head of napa cabbage and a couple of heads of endive; thinly slice a small white onion. Whisk together about a quarter cup of olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of white wine or sherry vinegar, a teaspoon of coarse mustard, salt, and pepper. Toss the cauliflower, cabbage, endive, and onion with the dressing and serve.
28.
Squid Salad with Red Peppers and Cilantro
The best store-bought roasted red peppers are piquillos; use them if you can find them.
Slice squid into quarter-inch rings. Whisk together a cup of olive oil, a few tablespoons of lime juice, a minced fresh chile, some minced lemongrass or lime zest, salt, and pepper. Slice roasted red peppers into quarter-inch strips. In a few tablespoons of olive oil, stir-fry the squid until it just turns white, about two minutes; season with salt and pepper. To serve, toss the squid with a couple handfuls of cilantro, the red peppers, and the dressing.
29.
Spinach Salad with Feta and Nutmeg
Try adding a handful of nuts, cherry tomatoes, diced cucumber, olives, raisins, or any chopped dried fruit to this salad.
Put a tablespoon or two of sherry vinegar and a handful of crumbled feta in a bowl. Use a fork to mash up the cheese a bit; add some pepper and a small grinding of nutmeg. Continue stirring while slowly adding about three tablespoons of olive oil. Add about a pound of well-washed and dried spinach to the dressing and toss well; season with salt if needed.
30.
Vietnamese Rice Noodle Salad with Crab
Cleaned crab of all kinds is available all year round; I like vermicelli-size rice noodles here, but any thickness will do if you boil them for a few minutes.
Soak the rice noodles in boiling water until soft, about 10 minutes; drain, rinse, drain, and set aside. Mix two parts rice vinegar with one part fish sauce, a little sugar, and some salt. Toss the noodles with a handful of chopped scallions, a shredded carrot, a handful of chopped cilantro, about a cup of crabmeat, and the dressing. Taste and adjust seasoning, garnish with chopped peanuts and a little more cilantro, and serve.
31.
Pear, Bacon, and Goat Cheese Sandwich
A winning combination.
Fry a few slices of bacon until crisp. Smear slices of good bread with goat cheese and layer with thinly sliced pears and the bacon. Drizzle with a little balsamic vinegar and serve.
32.
Chorizo and Manchego Panini
Sort of like a Cuban sandwich.
Smear slices of good-quality bread with Dijon mustard; top with slices of smoked chorizo, thinly sliced manchego cheese, and thinly sliced dill pickle. Toast the sandwich in a press, in a waffle iron, or in a heavy pan using another pan or lid to weight the sandwich down; serve when the cheese has melted.
33.
White Bean and Salmon Sandwich
Sockeye is the best canned salmon, and it’s really quite good.
Combine a drained can of cannellini beans, a drained can of salmon, some minced garlic, some finely chopped fresh rosemary, a tablespoon or two of olive oil, a couple of tablespoons of capers, salt, and pepper. Using a fork to slightly mash the beans, combine well; warm slightly if you like, or don’t bother. Serve on toasted bread or on top of torn greens.
34.
Beef Tartar Crostini
Please don’t use store-bought ground beef for this.
Pulse about a pound of beef sirloin or tenderloin in food processor. Put in a bowl and toss with an egg, a teaspoon or more of dry mustard, a tablespoon or more of Dijon mustard, a tablespoon or more of Worcestershire, at least a few dashes of Tabasco sauce, a handful of chopped scallions, some capers, a couple of anchovy fillets (optional), a bit of minced garlic, and plenty of salt and pepper; mix until just combined. Serve on thin slices of toasted bread.
35.
Wild Mushroom Crostini
Use any kind of mushrooms you like here; a combination is best.
Slice a pile of mushrooms, and cook them in a few tablespoons of butter with some minced garlic, fresh thyme, salt, and pepper. Continue cooking until the mushrooms release their liquid, then add a splash of dry white wine. Cook a few minutes more or until all the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms are beginning to brown. Stir in chopped parsley, taste and adjust seasoning, and spoon onto good-quality toasted bread.
36.
Cabbage and Kielbasa (or Salami, or Linguica, or…) Sandwich
Sear slices of kielbasa or other garlicky cooked or smoked sausage in a pan. Remove, then cook cabbage slices in the same pan, adding a little oil if necessary (or a splash of beer); season with salt and pepper. Build sandwiches with good-quality sourdough bread, Dijon mustard, and the kielbasa and cabbage.
37.
Meatball Sub
You might add some mozzarella and put the sub in the broiler to melt the cheese just before serving.
In a bowl, combine about a pound of ground beef, an egg, and a handful each of breadcrumbs, Parmesan, and freshly chopped parsley or basil, along with some salt and pepper. Make small meatballs (a melon baller can be helpful). Sear in butter or oil until the meatballs are browned on all sides and cooked through; spread a thin layer of tomato paste on toasted hero rolls and add the meatballs, along with any juices.
38.
Chorizo and Egg Rollup
Some queso fresco or other cheese sprinkled on the egg mixture before rolling is nice.
Squeeze Mexican chorizo from its casing into a hot skillet and toss in some chopped red onion; cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is done and beginning to crisp. Crack a couple of eggs on top, turn the heat down, and cover; cook for about three minutes, or until the eggs set. Meanwhile, warm large flour tortillas. Carefully scoop the eggs and some of the chorizo onto the tortillas along with a dash or two of Tabasco, salt, and pepper, and a spoonful of salsa if you like; fold in the short ends of the tortilla and roll lengthwise to serve.
39.
Fondue
Use cubes of good-quality bread and lots of freshly cut vegetables for dipping.
Combine about one cup of white wine with a crushed clove of garlic in a pan; bring to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Mix a tablespoon of cornstarch with two teaspoons of water and set aside. Add about two cups each of shredded Gruyère and Emmentaler cheese to the wine mixture, whisking until just melted. Add the cornstarch mixture and cook until creamy (do not boil); add more wine if needed for consistency. Serve, with the bread and vegetables (and if you don’t have long forks, skewers!).
40.
Beer Batter Shrimp Po’ Boy
As good as it sounds.
Heat oil for frying. In a bowl, mix together one can of beer, one and one-half cups cornmeal and pinches of salt, pepper, and paprika. Dip shrimp into the batter and fry in batches until golden, about three minutes. Serve on split crusty Italian or French loaves with lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise; lemon juice and hot sauce are also great here.
41.
Prosciutto-Egg Sandwich
Hard-boil eggs; as they’re cooking, sear slices of prosciutto in olive oil until crisp, just a couple of minutes. Shell the eggs, slice them, and mix with just enough mayonnaise to moisten, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper. Use the egg mixture to fill hard rolls or toasted brioche; top with the crumbled prosciutto, and finish with a few dashes of good olive (or truffle) oil.
42.
Braised Cabbage with Spanish Chorizo and Beans
You can use linguica or kielbasa in place of chorizo, and any greens you like.
Slice smoked chorizo into quarter-inch-thick pieces, then cook in olive oil until it begins to crisp. Slice a head of green cabbage into eight wedges and put it on top of the chorizo; add a couple of cups of cooked or drained canned cannellini or other white beans, spreading to surround the cabbage; cover and cook for a few minutes, then flip the cabbage and stir the beans. Continue cooking until everything is warmed through, season with salt and pepper, and serve topped with toasted breadcrumbs or croutons and a drizzle of olive oil.
43.
Tofu with Pineapple and Red Peppers
Use precut pineapple, and this is even faster.
Chop half a pineapple and a large red pepper into half-inch pieces and cook for about three minutes in a bit of oil. Remove. Add more oil if necessary, followed by two cups of cubed firm tofu and a tablespoon each of minced garlic and ginger; cook and stir about three minutes more. Off heat, toss with a splash each of soy sauce and rice vinegar and some chopped scallions. Serve over rice.
44.
Mini Cannelloni
Heat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl, mix together a cup of ricotta cheese, a tablespoon of chopped sage, salt, pepper, and grated Parmesan. Put about a teaspoonful of this mixture in a wonton wrapper, roll into a tube, and put on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Brush or spray with olive oil. Bake for about 10 minutes, or until the wontons are crisp. If you don’t have tomato sauce to warm up, serve drizzled with balsamic vinegar and sprinkled with lots of black pepper.
45.
Crisp Tofu and Asian Greens with Peanut Sauce
Use baby bok choy, Chinese broccoli, or tatsoi here; napa cabbage is a great alternative too.
Slice firm tofu into strips or cubes and pat dry; roughly chop a bunch of the greens. Pan-fry the tofu in some vegetable oil until it browns on all sides, about four minutes; remove and pour off all but a little of the oil. Add the greens and a pinch or two of red chile flakes, and continue cooking until the vegetables turn dark green, about three minutes. Mix together a half cup of peanut butter, a couple of tablespoons of soy sauce, and fresh lime juice to taste; add a bit of water if necessary to get a nice consistency. Add the sauce to the pan along with reserved tofu and toss to coat. Garnish with crushed peanuts and serve.
46.
Potato Cumin Curry
For more heat, add a freshly chopped chile along with the onions.
Peel and cut four baking potatoes into half-inch pieces. In oil, cook a thinly sliced onion until just soft, about two minutes; add a couple of tablespoons of curry powder, a tablespoon of cumin, and a pinch of saffron. Add the potatoes and toss to coat with the spices. Then add a can of coconut milk; fill the can with water and add that, too. Bring the mixture to a steady bubble; cover and cook until the potatoes are almost tender, about eight minutes. Add a drained can of chickpeas. Combine well and continue cooking until the potatoes are tender and the beans are warmed through. Serve topped with freshly chopped cilantro.
47.
Lettuce-Wrapped Fish
Any thick white fish fillets will work here.
Blanch large romaine or Bibb lettuce leaves in boiling water—one or two at a time—until tender and flexible, just a few seconds, and drain; then cut out the large central vein if necessary to roll. Put a piece of fish on each leaf and sprinkle with salt and pepper; fold or roll the fish in the leaves so the edges overlap. In a large pan or casserole with a cover, bring one cup of wine to a boil with two tablespoons of butter; reduce to a simmer and add the fish packages. Cover and cook until a knife easily penetrates fish, five to 10 minutes; remove the fish to a warm platter. Over high heat, reduce the liquid; when it thickens a bit, pour it over the fish and serve.
48.
Seared Fish with Cumin and Lemon
Any sturdy fish works here, including salmon, shrimp, scallops, or squid.
Combine about a half cup of flour with a tablespoon of cumin, and some salt and pepper. Lightly dredge the seafood in the cumin-flour mixture; cook the fish in a mixture of butter and oil until golden, turning once, about three minutes on each side. Sprinkle with freshly squeezed lemon juice and parsley, then serve with the pan juices.
49.
Shrimp with Black Bean Sauce
You can find fermented black beans at Asian markets and even most supermarkets.
Soak two or three tablespoons of black beans in about a quarter cup of sherry or white wine (or water in a pinch). Cook minced garlic in vegetable oil, along with a teaspoon of grated ginger and a pinch or two of red chile flakes. When fragrant, add about a pound of small shrimp and fry until just cooked through, about a minute. Add the black beans and their liquid, toss, and remove from the heat. Add a bit of soy sauce and toss again. Serve with jasmine or other rice.
50.
Mussels in White Wine and Garlic
Wild mussels are always more flavorful than farm-raised; wash them well, and discard any with cracked shells or those which don’t close when you tap them.
Cook some minced garlic in olive oil for a couple of minutes; add a half cup of white wine and bring to a boil. Add two (or more) pounds of mussels to the pot, cover, and cook for five minutes, or until the mussels open (discard any that don’t open). Serve the mussels in bowls with the broth, freshly chopped parsley, and slices of good baguette for soaking.
51.
Broiled Squid
Keep the cooking time very short, and your squid will stay tender.
Heat the broiler. Combine about a half cup of olive oil, a few tablespoons of sherry vinegar or freshly squeezed lemon juice, a tablespoon or so of freshly chopped rosemary, salt, and pepper; add a pound or two of cleaned squid and marinate for about five minutes. Remove the squid from the marinade and broil for about three minutes, shaking the pan once or twice, then serve with bread (toasted bread rubbed with garlic and drizzled with olive oil is quite fine here).
52.
Seafood Couscous
You can use almost any fish or shellfish you like here.
Add a bag of frozen peas, two cups of couscous, and a pinch of saffron to three cups of boiling water; stir, cover, and remove from the heat and let sit for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, cook a chopped onion, a sliced red pepper, and some minced garlic in some olive oil for about two minutes. Add half a pound each of firm white fish and half a pound of fresh squid rings; stir-fry for about three minutes more. Fluff the couscous with a fork and serve the fish and vegetables over it; garnish with freshly chopped parsley leaves.
53.
Shrimp with Lemongrass
When you’re mincing lemongrass, peel off its outer few layers to get to the tender inner core.
Cook a tablespoon of minced lemongrass in some vegetable oil; add minced garlic and a teaspoon or so of lime zest, then a pound or more of shrimp. Stir, then cook until the shrimp are no longer translucent, three to five minutes. Add some fish sauce to taste, then add some black pepper, and serve, sprinkled with cilantro.
54.
Scallop Stew with Couscous
A North African–flavored dish that you can spice up or down depending on your taste.
Cook couscous as in recipe 52, with or without peas and saffron. Soften a diced onion, some minced garlic, a teaspoon of cumin, a pinch of cayenne, half a teaspoon of cinnamon, and salt to taste in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil for about three minutes. Add a large drained can of chopped tomatoes and a handful of golden raisins; bring to a boil and simmer for five minutes. Add about a pound of scallops and continue cooking until they’re opaque, three to six minutes depending on their size. Serve the stew over couscous with chopped cilantro on top.
55.
Citrus-Braised Fish Fillets or Steaks
Try orange juice, lime juice, or any other combination of citrus juices here.
Sear sturdy fish fillets or steaks for about two minutes on each side in a little oil, until nicely browned. Add a quarter cup each of grapefruit juice and lemon juice, a tablespoon or two of soy sauce, some minced garlic, and about a teaspoon of freshly grated ginger. Cover and braise for about six minutes, or until the fish is cooked through. Serve over shredded red cabbage and sliced radishes.
56.
Simplest Chicken Kebabs
Lamb, beef, or firm fish all take to this preparation equally well.
Heat the broiler. Cut a pound of boneless, skinless chicken thighs into chunks slightly larger than one inch. Toss the meat with a minced onion, some minced garlic, a few tablespoons of lemon juice, olive oil, salt, pepper, a crumbled bay leaf, and about a teaspoon of oregano (fresh is best, but dried is OK; use less). Thread the chicken pieces on skewers and broil, turning occasionally, until browned and cooked through, about six to eight minutes. Serve with lemon wedges.
57.
Chicken in Spicy Basil-Coconut Sauce
If you like more heat, don’t seed one or both of the chiles.
Season chicken cutlets with half a teaspoon each of ground coriander, ground cinnamon, chili powder, and salt and sear them on both sides in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil. Remove from the pan, add more oil if needed, and cook sliced red onion, three minced cloves of garlic, and two seeded Thai chiles for about four minutes. Return the chicken to the pan along with about a cup of coconut milk, a couple dashes of fish sauce, and a few tablespoons of chopped basil. Cook until the coconut milk begins to bubble; reduce to a steady simmer and continue cooking until the chicken is done. Serve the chicken and sauce over rice with fresh lime wedges, garnished with more basil, or cilantro or mint (or all three).
58.
Chicken Paprikash
This can be served over couscous too, but if you have the time, bulgur gives this stew a richer earthiness.
In two tablespoons of butter, sear a pound of boneless, skinless chicken pieces, about a minute on each side. Add a thinly sliced large onion, two crushed garlic cloves, a teaspoon of minced ginger (or half a teaspoon of ground ginger), three tablespoons of Hungarian paprika, a bay leaf, and a couple of teaspoons of salt; cook for about three minutes. Add a cup of chicken broth and bring everything to a boil. Reduce the heat and continue cooking until the chicken is just done; stir in half a cup of sour cream and serve over buttered egg noodles.
59.
Chicken Curry with Raisins
I like this topped with a handful or two of chopped peanuts and lots of fresh cilantro.
Cut boneless, skinless chicken breasts into one-inch pieces; sear them in hot vegetable oil until browned all over, just a couple of minutes. Remove from the pan, add more oil if needed, and soften a sliced red onion and a thinly sliced stalk of celery for about two minutes. Return the chicken to the pan along with two tablespoons of curry powder, a good pinch of salt, a cup of raisins, and a quarter cup of apple juice (or water); cover and continue cooking until the chicken is done, about three minutes.
60.
Chicken with Apples and Sage
Peel a couple of tart apples and slice them into pieces. Brown the chicken on both sides in some olive oil, about four minutes total; set aside. Add two tablespoons of butter, the apples, a diced shallot, and a tablespoon of brown sugar to the pan and cook for about three minutes. Add a cup of chicken broth, a tablespoon of cider vinegar, and freshly chopped sage, and stir to deglaze the pan and thicken a bit. Return the chicken to the broth and cook until the chicken is done, the apples are tender, and the sauce is reduced. Serve the chicken and apples with the sauce spooned on top.
61.
Coq au Vin
Classic French flavors.
Pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts (or thighs) to half-inch thickness and season with salt and pepper. Sear on both sides in a bit of butter; set aside. Add two carrots chopped into one-inch pieces and half an onion cut into wedges; cook until the onion begins to soften. Add a cup of red wine, a bay leaf, a teaspoon of fresh tarragon, and a thyme sprig; deglaze the pan, return the chicken to the pan, and cover. Simmer for about six minutes until the meat is cooked through and the vegetables are tender.
62.
Honey-Orange Chicken
Boneless pork chops are also terrific here.
Pound chicken breasts to half-inch thickness and season with salt and pepper. Mix together one-half cup of orange juice, one-half cup of honey, one tablespoon ground cumin, salt, and pepper. Sear the chicken on both sides in two tablespoons of vegetable oil for about four minutes total. Add the orange juice–honey mixture, cover, and allow it to simmer for about six minutes. Serve over mixed greens.
63.
Chicken Livers with Broad Noodles
Fettucine or—even better—pappardelle are what you want here.
Soften a chopped onion and a chopped celery stalk for about two minutes in a little olive oil. Add a half pound of ground meat—pork, beef, lamb, chicken, or turkey, whatever you like—plus four roughly chopped chicken livers and a few sprigs of thyme or sage leaves. Cook until the meat loses its redness, about six minutes. Add a couple of tablespoons of tomato paste along with some water and cook until everything is heated through. Serve over thick noodles sprinkled with freshly grated Parmesan cheese and parsley.
64.
Maple-Ginger Glazed Chicken with Pecans
A side of roasted Brussels sprouts really hits the spot here.
Combine a quarter cup of maple syrup with about a quarter cup of chopped pecans and a teaspoon freshly grated ginger in a bowl; mix to coat the pecans and set aside. Season half-inch-thick chicken cutlets with salt and pepper; sear the cutlets in a couple of tablespoons of butter, until browned, about four minutes total. Add some more butter to the pan and pour the syrup-pecan mixture over the top of the chicken, then cook the chicken for a couple of minutes more on each side, moving the chicken around the pan to coat it evenly. Serve the chicken topped with the warm pecans and the pan juice.
65.
Coconut-Orange Chicken
Nice with mixed greens and fresh orange wedges.
Brush half-inch-thick boneless, skinless chicken breasts with olive oil; season with salt and pepper and dredge lightly in flour. Cook a teaspoon of minced garlic, the minced zest of an orange, and a teaspoon of red chile flakes for about two minutes in olive oil; add the chicken and sear for about two minutes on each side. Add a can of coconut milk, a pinch of saffron, and a bay leaf; stir, cover, and let simmer for about six minutes until the chicken is cooked through. Sprinkle with slivered almonds and cilantro and serve.
66.
Chicken with Bacon, Shallots, and Brandy
Use thick-cut bacon here.
Cut a few slices of bacon into one-inch pieces and fry until crisp; remove with a slotted spoon. Season half-inch-thick chicken cutlets with salt and pepper and sear them in the bacon fat until browned, about two minutes on each side; remove and set aside. Add four sliced shallots and a teaspoon of minced garlic and cook for another two minutes; return the chicken to the pan, add a half cup of brandy, cover, and let simmer for about five minutes, or until the chicken is done and the sauce has thickened somewhat. Serve the chicken topped with the shallots, bacon, and sauce.
67.
Chicken Poached in Port
Pound chicken cutlets to half-inch thickness and season with salt and pepper. Cook a chopped onion in butter with salt and pepper for about two minutes. Add about a cup of port to the pan along with the chicken and a couple of bay leaves; bring it to a boil; reduce to a bubble, cover, and simmer for about four minutes. Spoon the onions and sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley.
68.
Honey Fried Chicken
Freshly made breadcrumbs are best here; panko are also nice.
Combine half a cup of flour, about half a cup of fresh breadcrumbs, a tablespoon paprika, an egg, about half a cup of milk, salt, and pepper; mix until a thick batter forms (add a little more milk if necessary). Pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts to half-inch thickness and dip them in the batter until coated. Shallow-or deep-fry the breasts in oil until golden and cooked through, turning once, about eight minutes total. Warm some honey with some water and a sprig of thyme and drizzle it over the chicken to serve.
69.
Chicken Piccata
Boneless pork chops are also good prepared this way.
Dredge chicken breasts, pounded to half-inch thickness, in flour mixed with salt and pepper. Sear the chicken on both sides in a mixture of oil and butter, about four minutes total. Lay very thinly sliced lemon rounds on top of the chicken, add a cup of white wine, and cover; continue cooking for about five minutes. Remove the chicken from the pan and reduce the wine to a syrupy consistency. Serve the chicken with the lemon slices on top, a spoonful of the sauce, and a sprinkling of capers or chopped olives.
70.
Turkey Cutlets with Walnuts and Sage
You might puree an apple or two in the food processor with a dash of cinnamon to serve alongside the turkey.
In a food processor, combine a handful or so of walnuts with about a half cup of breadcrumbs, a few tablespoons of freshly grated Parmesan cheese, a teaspoon or so of fresh sage, salt, and pepper. Pound turkey cutlets to half-inch thickness; season with salt and pepper; dredge in flour, egg, and the walnut mixture, pressing gently to help the mixture adhere. Heat a few tablespoons of olive oil and fry the cutlets, turning once, until golden and cooked through, about eight minutes.
71.
Sausage and Potatoes
Simply classic.
Heat the broiler. Slice potatoes into half-inch pieces and boil in salted water until soft, just a few minutes. Meanwhile, slice a few Italian sausages—sweet, spicy, or a combination—into two-inch pieces and put them in an oven-safe dish with half of a thinly sliced onion; broil until the sausage is well browned, about eight minutes, turning once. Mix the sausage, onion, and potatoes together in a bowl with a few tablespoons of olive oil and a handful of chopped basil or parsley.
72.
Sweet Sauerkraut with Kielbasa
A chopped or pureed apple—or good-quality applesauce—can be used instead of the pear.
In some butter, sear three-inch pieces of kielbasa, a sliced onion, and a couple of chopped pears (slightly short of ripe is fine); cook for about four minutes. Add a bag or jar of sauerkraut (do not use canned), cover, and heat until warmed through, about six minutes more. Serve with pumpernickel rolls.
73.
Braised Pork Chops with Celery Root
Use parsnips or carrots if you can’t find the celery root.
Cut some celery root into half-inch sticks. Take thin, boneless pork chops and smear them with salt, pepper, and minced garlic. Sear in a mixture of butter and oil, turning once, about two minutes on each side; add the celery root and a splash of dry white wine and cover. Cook for about five minutes; remove the chops to a plate and cook until the celery root is just tender and the remaining liquid is reduced to a syrup. Add a bit of fresh butter and return the chops to the pan, along with any liquid that’s accumulated around them. Turn once or twice in the sauce and serve, sprinkled with fresh parsley.
74.
Seared Pork Paillards with Prunes and Olives
A surprising and good combination.
Pound boneless pork chops to quarter-inch thickness and sprinkle with salt, pepper, and some ground coriander. Sear the chops for about a minute per side in olive oil. Remove from the pan and add about a cup of white wine and a couple of tablespoons of butter; bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and add a handful of chopped prunes and a few chopped green olives; cover and cook for a couple of minutes, then add the pork and cook until just done, about three minutes more. Serve the pork drizzled with the sauce and garnished with chopped parsley or chives.
75.
Stuffed Pork Chops with Broccoli Rabe
A bit of a sprint, but worth the effort.
Remove a couple of sweet Italian sausages from their casings and brown in a bit of olive oil, breaking up the meat with a fork or spoon. Meanwhile, cook a bunch of chopped broccoli rabe in boiling, salted water until crisp-tender, about two minutes; drain. Pound boneless pork chops as thinly as you can; season with salt and pepper. Put a bit of the cooked sausage in the center of each of the chops, roll, and secure with toothpicks. Sear in the same skillet, browning the meat well. Drizzle the broccoli rabe with good-quality olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve with the stuffed pork chops.
76.
Steak au Poivre
The classic (and wonderfully excessive) recipe.
Salt and heavily—really heavily—pepper inch-thick steaks—rib eye, sirloin, or skirt (which will be thinner), and cook them in a grill pan to the desired doneness, turning once. Set the steaks aside. Melt some butter in the same pan with a couple of tablespoons of chopped shallot; cook until the shallot softens, about two minutes. Add a splash of brandy to the shallots, along with any collected juices from the steak, and reduce; lower the heat, add a bit of cream, and cook until it begins to thicken. Serve the cream sauce with the steaks.
77.
Beef Fajita Stir-fry
Some garnishes might include fresh cilantro, sour cream, guacamole, chopped tomato, or black olives.
Fry about a pound of thinly sliced sirloin steak in some olive oil over high heat until seared but still rare. Remove; add more oil if needed; add sliced red bell pepper, chopped onion, and garlic and stir-fry until just soft. Season with dried oregano, chili powder, salt, and pepper, and return the meat to the pan along with a couple handfuls of good tortilla chips and some crumbled queso fresco. Toss until the chips are well coated and serve with salsa drizzled on top.
78.
Scallion-Stuffed Beef Rolls
These are known as negima in Japan, where they originated.
Heat the broiler. Cut strips of flank steak into three-by-five-inch pieces about a quarter-inch thick. Brush one side of the beef with a little soy sauce. Cut scallions in half the long way, then into five-inch lengths; put two or three pieces on each piece of beef. Roll the beef lengthwise and secure with a toothpick or two. Broil as quickly as you can until browned, maybe five minutes total, turning halfway through. Serve, garnished with chopped scallions, cilantro, and a drizzle of soy and—if you like—sesame oil.
79.
Seared Calf’s Liver with Celery
The nearly universal problem with liver is overcooking; keep the cooking time short, and it will be delicious.
Heat two tablespoons of butter until the foam subsides; dredge a thick slice of liver in flour, shaking off the excess, and put it in the hot butter, sprinkling with salt and pepper. As soon as the liver browns on one side—two to three minutes—turn it and brown the other side, cooking for another two minutes. The liver should be medium-rare. Remove from the pan and add a couple of sliced celery stalks and the juice of a lemon or two. Stir to cook the celery a bit and make a little pan sauce. Serve over the liver, garnished with parsley or chives.
80.
Apricot-Braised Lamb Chops
Lovely over a bed of arugula or other spicy greens.
In a food processor, make a paste from a handful of dried apricots, some lemon juice, a bit of onion, a teaspoon of ground coriander, and a clove of garlic. Salt and pepper not-too-thin lamb chops and sear them in olive oil for about two minutes on each side until browned; remove and set aside. Add the apricot mixture to the pan along with a splash of white wine and bring to a simmer. Put the chops back in the pan, cover, and braise for about five minutes—they should remain pink inside. Serve, drizzled with the braising liquid.
81.
Red Wine–Braised Lamb Chops
Serve these over a bed of couscous tossed with peas.
Salt and pepper not-too-thin lamb chops and sear them in oil, turning once, until they’re brown on both sides; set aside. Add a couple of tablespoons of flour to the pan, stirring constantly, until it’s well combined with the drippings. Whisk in a half cup of beef broth or water, a half cup of red wine, some minced garlic, and a teaspoon or two of chopped fresh rosemary; bring to a boil. Return the chops and juices to the pan and cook, turning the lamb over once or twice until it’s done.
82.
Indian-Style Lamb Kebabs
This preparation also works well with chicken, beef, and even firm fish.
Heat the broiler. Cut a pound or so of lamb shoulder into one-inch chunks. Toss with a cup of plain yogurt, a chopped small onion, some minced garlic, a teaspoon each of ground cumin, coriander, and paprika, and a pinch of cayenne. Thread the lamb pieces on skewers and broil, turning occasionally, until nicely browned and cooked to desired doneness. Serve with slices of fresh limes and freshly chopped cilantro or mint.
83.
Pasta Jambalaya
You can use any cooked sausage here, but the spiciness of andouille is the most authentic.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it (use short-cut pasta like orzo, orecchiette, shells, or ditalini). Meanwhile, slice an andouille or another spicy cooked sausage into coins. Heat a fair amount of olive oil and brown the sausage; add a chopped onion, a chopped celery stalk, and a chopped green bell pepper and continue to cook until the vegetables begin to soften. Add some minced garlic, a tablespoon of chopped oregano (or a bit of dried), and enough flour to make a roux (add more oil if the mixture looks too dry). Turn the heat up so the roux browns quickly, but watch it like a hawk. As soon as it darkens and smells toasty add the pasta and enough of the pasta cooking water to keep everything moist. Toss well and garnish with chopped fresh parsley; break with tradition and serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese if you like.
84.
Banderilla Pasta
This borrows the flavors of the original tapa to make a pasta sauce.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, chop a few crisp pickled peppers or pepperoncini, a handful of green olives, and a couple of good marinated artichoke hearts (optional). Using a fork, mash up a few anchovies (marinated in olive oil and packed in glass) and add them to the chopped vegetables. Toss the pasta with the vegetables and anchovies, adding a few tablespoons of the reserved liquid as needed to make a sauce; garnish with chopped olives or parsley.
85.
Pasta with Tomato Tapenade
You might crumble some fresh goat cheese over the top of this.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it. Meanwhile, combine a half pound of pitted black olives in food processor with about a handful of drained capers, four or five anchovies, two cloves of garlic, freshly ground black pepper, and olive oil as needed to make a coarse paste. Put the tapenade in a large skillet over medium heat with several canned tomatoes, breaking them up as you cook, and stir until saucy, only a couple of minutes. Toss the pasta with just enough of the tapenade to gently coat the noodles. Serve with cheese if you like, passing any extra sauce at the table.
86.
Linguine with Butter, Parmesan, and Sage
The antecedent of “Alfredo” sauce, and much lighter (and I think better).
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, leaving it just short of done and reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, melt two tablespoons butter (or more) and add a couple handfuls of fresh sage leaves (about 30 leaves) to the pan; cook until the butter just browns and the leaves have shriveled. Add the pasta to the butter and sage, along with about three-quarters of a cup of the cooking liquid; cook until the pasta is done; it’s OK if the mixture remains a little soupy. Stir in a couple of good handfuls of freshly grated Parmesan cheese and mix until it becomes creamy; season with lots of freshly ground black pepper and serve.
87.
Pasta with Chicken, Frisée, and Stilton
Try playing with this combination of greens and cheese; use baby spinach and feta or endive and goat cheese, for example.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, cut a half pound or more of chicken cutlets into one-inch pieces. Chop an onion and cook it in some olive oil until it begins to soften, then add the chicken; sprinkle with salt and pepper and about a tablespoon of freshly chopped rosemary and cook for about four minutes. Separate a head of frisée. When the chicken is almost cooked through, add the frisée and cook until wilted, just a minute or so. Add the pasta to the chicken mixture, along with a handful of crumbled Stilton or another blue cheese. Add a couple tablespoons of the pasta water if needed to soften the cheese and moisten the sauce. Season with salt and pepper and garnish with toasted walnuts.
88.
Pasta with Walnut Pesto
Incredibly simple and incredibly rich.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, puree a cup of walnuts, some Parmesan cheese, a small handful of parsley, a few sage leaves, salt, pepper, and olive oil in a food processor; use just enough olive oil to get a nice, almost smooth consistency. Toss the pasta with the walnut sauce, using some of the reserved cooking water as needed to moisten it. Serve, topped with more freshly grated Parmesan cheese and some chopped parsley.
89.
Pasta with Garbanzo Beans, Sausage, and Arugula
One of my favorite “more sauce, less pasta” dishes.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, remove the casings from a couple of sweet Italian sausages and fry the meat, breaking it up into small pieces, until cooked through. Add a large can of drained, diced tomatoes, a can of drained chickpeas, a tablespoon of crushed fennel seeds, a good pinch of red chile flakes, salt, and pepper. Toss the pasta with a couple handfuls of arugula or another tender green (baby spinach, mizuna, and dandelion are all good) and let it wilt. Add the pasta to the sausage mixture, along with some pasta water if needed to moisten, and serve garnished with chopped parsley.
90.
Pasta with Bacon and Breadcrumbs
This relies on good breadcrumbs, which means homemade or panko.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, cut bacon into small pieces and fry it in a bit of olive oil until just crisping; remove from the pan and add two or three minced cloves of garlic to the pan; cook over fairly low heat, turning until just fragrant, a couple of minutes. Toss in a cup or so of breadcrumbs and a pinch of red chile flakes; cook, stirring, until the breadcrumbs turn golden (they go fast, so you’ll want to watch them). Toss the pasta and the breadcrumb mixture along with the bacon and a little of the reserved liquid. Top with some more olive oil and a bit of chopped parsley or basil.
91.
Linguine with Pea Sauce and Prosciutto
Good when you’re eager for a taste of spring. I don’t bother to strain the sauce, but you can.
Boil salted water for pasta and cook it, reserving some of the cooking liquid. Meanwhile, cook a bag of frozen peas and a couple of chopped scallions in just enough salted, boiling water to cover everything; simmer until tender, just a couple of minutes. Puree most of the peas with as much cooking liquid as you need in a food processor or blender. Cut a few slices of prosciutto into matchsticks and cook for about two minutes or until coloring slightly; add the remaining whole peas to the prosciutto. Toss the pasta with the pea puree; mix in the prosciutto and whole peas. Season with lots of freshly ground pepper and salt to taste; serve with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
92.
Warm Milk Toast
Day-old bread is ideal for this; it won’t become soggy.
Warm two tablespoons of butter in a large pot; add a cup of milk, a quarter cup of raw cane sugar, and a quarter cup of raisins. Heat this mixture, stirring until the sugar melts, but don’t bring it to a boil. Slice good-quality bread (brioche is nice) into two-inch cubes and put the bread in the pot; add as much bread as needed to soak up the milk without becoming soggy. Transfer everything to a bowl to serve; drizzle with a couple of tablespoons of dark rum or whiskey and sprinkle with cinnamon.
93.
Lemon Mascarpone Mousse
Try substituting orange rind and juice for the lemon and add a touch of Grand Marnier in place of the cream.
Finely grate the rind of a lemon. Whisk together a cup of mascarpone, the lemon’s juice and grated rind, and about a quarter cup of sugar (or more to taste) until smooth. Add a tablespoon or two of heavy cream to moisten if needed. If you have time, chill for a bit before serving in pudding cups; top with a drizzle of honey and serve with ladyfingers.
94.
Candied Citrus Rinds
A combination of different citrus fruit makes for a gorgeous presentation.
Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Slice an orange, a grapefruit, or a lime into quarters and remove the flesh from the peel. (Use it for whatever you like.) Slice each quarter rind into quarter-inch-thick strips; boil for a minute, then remove from the water with a slotted spoon. In a combination of one part sugar to one part water boil the rinds a second time, for about five minutes. Drain, toss with a bit of sugar until lightly coated, and set on a cookie sheet to dry. If you like, melt some dark chocolate and dip the rinds halfway. Serve warm, alongside good butter cookies or shortbread.
95.
Grapefruit ’n’ Cream Shake
In spring and summer strawberries and tarragon are also a lovely combination, though you may have to add a bit of water depending on how juicy your fruit is.
In a blender, combine two cups of grapefruit juice, a half cup of cream, and a couple tablespoons (or more) of sugar. Add a cup of ice and blend until it becomes a slushy consistency. Serve immediately, garnished with a dusting of cayenne if you like.
96.
Whipped Grapefruit Cream with Chocolate Drizzle
The nuts (use whatever type you like) are optional, but they do add a nice crunch.
Melt four ounces of bittersweet chocolate. Whip two cups of heavy cream along with two tablespoons of fresh grapefruit juice and two tablespoons zest; continue whipping until stiff peaks form. Fold in a handful of chopped pistachios. Spoon the grapefruit cream into serving dishes, drizzle with the warm chocolate, and garnish with a sprig of mint.
97.
Orange Fool
You can let this chill and set, or serve immediately.
Combine one and one-half cups orange juice and two tablespoons orange zest in a medium saucepan; simmer gently over medium-low heat until reduced to half its original volume, about fifteen minutes. Meanwhile, whip one and one-half cups of heavy cream until soft peaks form, then add three tablespoons of powdered sugar and continue beating, forming stiff peaks. Cool the saucepan in an ice bath for a minute or two, then strain the orange reduction into the whipped cream. Add three-quarters cup unsweetened flaked coconut and fold gently to combine everything. Garnish with additional coconut.
98.
Almond Tart
Great for guests, as you can serve it hot or at room temperature.
Heat the broiler. In a medium bowl, mix together four eggs, one-third cup of sugar, one-half cup of ground almonds, three-quarters cup of half-and-half, and a half cup of blanched slivered almonds. Melt two tablespoons of butter and add the almond mixture to the pan; mix to evenly distribute the almonds and cover. Cook until the eggs are set; put the pan uncovered in the broiler for about two minutes or until just golden on top. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and additional almonds to serve.
99.
Aztec Hot Chocolate
Increase or decrease the amount of cayenne as you like.
Whip a half cup of heavy cream with a half teaspoon of cayenne pepper and one teaspoon of vanilla extract until soft peaks form; set aside. In a small pot, warm four cups of whole milk with a half cup of chopped semisweet chocolate, a bit more cayenne, and a half teaspoon of cinnamon. Warm the milk until it just begins to bubble (don’t let it boil) and the chocolate is melted. Transfer the chocolate milk to mugs and top with the spicy whipped cream.
100.
Nutella Fondue
For fans of Nutella, this is heaven.
Warm a cup of Nutella with a cup of cream and mix to combine well. Cut your favorite bakery pound cake into cubes and slice a couple of not-too-ripe bananas. Use skewers to dip the pound cake and bananas into the fondue.
101.
Chocolate Chip Pancakes
Topped with rum-infused whipped cream, this breakfast favorite becomes a fabulous dessert.
In a bowl, mix together two cups of flour, two teaspoons baking powder, one-quarter teaspoon salt, one tablespoon sugar, two eggs, one and one-half cups milk, and two tablespoons oil or melted butter; some lumps can remain. Warm a large pan with a tablespoon or two of butter, ladle some batter into the pan, and sprinkle the batter with chocolate chips. When the pancake begins to bubble, flip and cook for another minute more or until golden brown.