This zoo, one of India’s best, was established in 1958 to study, conserve and preserve Himalayan fauna. Housed within its rocky and forested environment are species such as Asiatic black bears, cloud leopards, red pandas and Tibetan wolves. The zoo, and its attached snow leopard–breeding centre (closed to the public), are home to the world’s largest single captive population of snow leopards (currently 11). The zoo is a pleasant 20-minute downhill walk from Chowrasta along Jawahar Rd West.

Alternatively, take a shared jeep (₹20, about 10 minutes) from Chowk Bazaar bus and jeep station, or hire a taxi (₹250).

Tucked away within the grounds of the zoo, this prestigious mountaineering institute was founded in 1954 and has provided training for some of India’s leading mountaineers. Within the complex is the fascinating Mountaineering Museum. It houses sundry details and memorabilia from the 1922 and 1924 Everest expeditions, which set off from Darjeeling, as well as more recent summit attempts. Look for the Carl Zeiss telescope presented by Adolf Hitler to the head of the Nepali Army.

Just beside the museum, near the spot where Tenzing Norgay was cremated, stands the Tenzing Statue. The intrepid Everest summiteer lived in Darjeeling for most of his life and was the director of the institute for many years.

The HMI also runs 28-day basic and advanced mountaineering courses (HMI; GOOGLE MAP ; %0354-2254087; www.hmi-darjeeling.com; Indian/foreigner ₹7500/US$800) from March to May and September to December.

This scenic ropeway reopened in 2012, after a fatal accident halted operations in 2003. The 20-minute ride takes you from North Point down to the Takvar Valley tea estate, gliding over manicured tea bushes that look like giant broccoli growing on mountain slopes. Get here early if you want to explore the village and tea plantation. The last lift back is 5pm.

This 1854 tea estate below Hill Cart Rd is worth visiting, especially when the plucking and processing are in progress (March to November). An employee will guide you through the aromatic factory and its withering, rolling, fermenting and drying processes, explaining how green, black and white teas all come from the same leaf. Take the marked turn-off about 1km northwest of town on Hill Cart Rd.

These pleasant gardens contain an impressive collection of Himalayan plants, most famously orchids and rhododendrons. Follow the signs along Lochnager Rd from the Chowk Bazaar bus and jeep station, until the hum of cicadas replaces the honking of jeeps at the main entrance. A map is posted at the office at the top of the park.

Established in 1959, this refugee centre comprises a home for the aged, a school, an orphanage, a clinic, a gompa (Tibetan Buddhist monastery) and craft workshops that produce carpets, woodcarvings and woollen items. There’s also an interesting, politically charged photographic exhibition portraying Tibetan history through B&W photos. Visitors are welcome to wander through the workshops. The handicrafts are for sale in the showroom ( GOOGLE MAP ; %0354-2252552; www.tibetancentredarjeeling.com; Lebong Cart Rd; carpet incl shipping from US$380) and proceeds go straight back into the Tibetan community.

The quickest way to reach the centre is to walk steeply downhill from the north side of Bhanu Bhakta Sarani; take the alley down beside Hotel Dolphin. To return to Chowrasta Sq, take the steps to the left of the photo exhibition uphill (left at the gate) for 10 minutes to the Bhutia Busty Gompa and continue uphill from there for another stiff 10 minutes. A chartered taxi via North Point costs around ₹250/500 one way/return.

This temple originally stood on Observatory Hill, but was rebuilt in its present location by the chogyals of Sikkim in the 19th century. It houses fine murals depicting the life of Buddha, with Khangchendzonga providing a spectacular backdrop. Come for prayers at 4pm; it's often locked during the day. To get here, follow CR Das Rd downhill for five minutes from Chowrasta Sq, past a trinity of Buddhist rock carvings.

This new museum gives a good introduction to Tibetan culture and history. Displays include fine thangkas (Tibetan cloth paintings), Buddhist Tantric implements, musical instruments and even an eagle bone used for bloodletting in traditional Tibetan medicine. It's well done and never politically dogmatic. A photo exhibit is planned for downstairs.

To watch the dawn light break over a spectacular 250km stretch of Himalayan horizon, including Everest (8848m), Lhotse (8501m) and Makalu (8475m) to the far west, rise early and take a jeep out to Tiger Hill (2590m), 11km south of Darjeeling, above Ghum. The skyline is dominated by Khangchendzonga (‘great five-peaked snow fortress’), India’s highest peak and the world’s third-highest. On either side of the main massif are Kabru (7338m), Jannu (7710m) and Pandim (6691m), all serious peaks in their own right.

This daily morning spectacle (views are best in autumn and spring) is a major tourist attraction, and you'll find hundreds of jeeps leaving Darjeeling for Tiger Hill every morning at 4am – traffic snarls en route are quite common. At the summit you can pay to stand in the pavilion grounds or warm up in one of the heated lounges (₹30 to ₹100 with tea). It can be a real bunfight here, so if you prefer your Himalayan views in solitude you might want to try somewhere else.

Organised sunrise trips (usually with a detour to Batasia Loop and the monasteries in Ghum on the way back) can be booked through a travel agency or directly with jeep drivers at the Clubside taxi stand. Return trips cost ₹1300 per vehicle, or ₹250 per seat.

Sacred to both Buddhists and Hindus, this hill was the site of the original Dorje Ling monastery that lent Darjeeling its name. Today, devotees come to a temple in a small cave to honour Mahakala, a Buddhist protector deity also worshipped in Hinduism as a wrathful avatar of Shiva the destroyer. The summit is marked by several shrines, a flurry of colourful prayer flags and the ringing notes from numerous devotional bells, but sadly no mountain views.

A path leading up to the hill through giant Japanese cedars starts about 300m along Bhanu Bhakta Sarani from Chowrasta; watch out for marauding monkeys. Before you reach the summit a side path to the left leads down to the Mahakala Cave (ask for the gufa). The summit temple is staffed by a Hindu priest and a Tibetan Buddhist lama sitting side by side in an admirable display of religious coexistence.

Darjeeling produces some of the world's finest teas and Nathmull’s is the best place to pick up some, with more than 50 varieties. Expect to pay ₹200 to ₹400 per 100g for a decent tea, and up to ₹5000 per 100g for the finest flushes. There are also attractive teapots, strainers and cosies as souvenirs. To taste the teas for sale here head to Sunset Lounge.

Sells Tibetan-style yak wool carpets as part of its charitable work (₹10,800 for a 0.9m by 1.8m carpet) and offers shipping. You can see the carpets being made out the back. There are also good jumpers, caps, gloves, shrugs and bags made by local women.

Kunga is a cosy wood-panelled place run by a friendly Tibetan family, strong on noodles and momos, and with excellent juice, fruit muesli curd and shabhaley (Tibetan pies). The clientèle includes locals, which is a mark of its culinary authenticity. You'll find it at street level below Dekeling Hotel.

This elegant restaurant sits atop the famous bakery and cafe of the same name and is a Darjeeling staple. Of note are the Continental and Chinese dishes and the tandoori specials; try the beef steak and potato or the delicious-smelling baked-cheese macaroni. The wooden floors, linen tablecloths and recently expanded window seating adds to the classy atmosphere.

This bright and clean space just below Dekeling Hotel is perhaps the best vegetarian Indian restaurant in town, with good service and great views from the large windows. The masala dosas (curried vegetables inside crisp pancakes) come with delicious dried fruit, nuts and cheese. Access to this 1st-floor joint is via the same staircase as Hotel Dekeling.

The intimate Park is deservedly very popular for its tasty North Indian curries (great chicken tikka masala) and surprisingly authentic Thai dishes, including the tasty tom kha gai (coconut chicken soup) and spicy green papaya salad. Renovations plan to move the Thai dishes to a separate pan-Asian dining area; look for the ornate Thai-style entrance.

Branch of the Nepal cafe chain, serving up good coffee and cakes, plus breakfast pancakes, waffles and sandwiches (snacks ₹150 to ₹250), in a stylish industrial interior.

Backpacker-friendly Gatty's is the only place in town that has a pulse after 9pm, with live music on the weekend and open mic and movie nights during the week. The food (mains ₹170 to ₹200) includes housemade lasagne, and pitta with hummus and falafel, plus good espresso and cold Kingfisher and Tuborg.