A beautiful pocket of calm at the heart of Old Delhi's mayhem, India’s largest mosque is built on a 10m elevation, towering above the surrounding hubbub. It can hold a mind-blowing 25,000 people. The marble and red-sandstone ‘Friday Mosque’ was Shah Jahan’s final architectural triumph, built between 1644 and 1658. The four watchtowers were used for security. There are two minarets standing 40m high, one of which can be climbed for amazing views. All of the three gates allow access to the mosque.

Humayun’s tomb is sublimely well proportioned, seeming to float above its symmetrical gardens. It's thought to have inspired the Taj Mahal, which it predates by 60 years. Constructed for the Mughal emperor in the mid-16th century by Haji Begum, his Persian-born wife, the tomb marries Persian and Mughal elements, with restrained decoration enhancing the architecture. The arched facade is inlaid with bands of white marble and red sandstone, and the building follows strict rules of Islamic geometry, with an emphasis on the number eight.

Visiting the marble shrine of Muslim Sufi saint Nizam-ud-din Auliya is Delhi's most mystical, magical experience. The dargah is hidden away in a tangle of bazaars selling rose petals, attars (perfumes) and offerings, and on Thursday evenings from sunset you can hear Sufis singing qawwali (Islamic devotional singing), amid crowds of devotees. The ascetic Nizam-ud-din died in 1325 at the ripe old age of 92. His doctrine of tolerance made him popular not only with Muslims, but with Hindus, Sikhs and Buddhists as well.

Much of this lovely museum is outside, including tree-shaded carvings and buildings. Displays celebrate the traditional crafts of India, with some beautiful textiles on display indoors, such as embroidery from Kashmir and cross-stitch from Punjab. Highlights include an exquisite reconstructed Gujarati haveli (traditional house). Artisans sell their products in the rear courtyard. The museum includes the excellent Cafe Lota and a very good shop.

Rajpath (Kingsway) is a vast parade linking India Gate to the offices of the Indian government. Built on an imperial scale between 1914 and 1931, this complex was designed by Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker, and underlined the ascendance of the British rulers. Yet just 16 years later, the Brits were out on their ear and Indian politicians were pacing the corridors of power.

At the western end of Rajpath, the official residence of the president of India, Rashtrapati Bhavan (President’s House; GOOGLE MAP ; %011-23015321; www.presidentofindia.nic.in/visit-to-rashtrapati-bhavan.htm; ₹50, online reservation required; h9am-4pm Fri-Sun; mCentral Secretariat), now partially open to the public via guided tour, is flanked by the mirror-image dome-crowned North Secretariat ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mCentral Secretariat) and South Secretariat ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ), housing government ministries. The Indian parliament meets nearby at the Sansad Bhavan (Parliament House; GOOGLE MAP ; Sansard Marg), a circular, colonnaded edifice at the end of Sansad Marg.

At Rajpath’s eastern end is mighty India Gate ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Rajpath; h24hr; mCentral Secretariat). This 42m-high stone memorial arch, designed by Lutyens, pays tribute to around 90,000 Indian army soldiers who died in WWI, the Northwest Frontier operations and the 1919 Anglo-Afghan War.

This glorious if dusty museum is full of treasures. Mind-bogglingly ancient, sophisticated figurines from the Harappan civilisation, almost 5000 years old, include the remarkable Dancing Girl, and there are also some fine ceramics from the even older Nal civilisation. Other items include Buddha relics, exquisite jewellery, miniature paintings, medieval woodcarvings, textiles and musical instruments.

Allow at least two hours. Bring identification to obtain an audio guide (included in the foreigner ticket price; ₹150 extra for Indian tourists). There's also a cafe.

Delhi's loveliest escape was originally named after the wife of the British Resident, Lady Willingdon, who had two villages cleared in 1936 in order to landscape a park to remind her of home. Today named after their Lodi-era tombs, the gardens, favoured getaway for Delhi's elite and courting couples, contain the 15th-century Bara Gumbad ( GOOGLE MAP ) tomb and mosque, the strikingly different tombs of Mohammed Shah ( GOOGLE MAP ; mKhan Market) and Sikander Lodi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; mJLN Stadium), and the Athpula (eight-piered) bridge across the lake, which dates from Emperor Akbar’s reign.

This magnificent, huge, white-marble gurdwara (Sikh temple), topped by glinting golden onion domes, was constructed at the site where the eighth Sikh guru, Harkrishan Dev, stayed before his death in 1664. Despite his tender years, the six-year-old guru tended to victims of Delhi’s cholera and smallpox epidemic, and the waters of the large tank are said to have healing powers. It's full of colour and life, yet tranquil, and live devotional songs waft over the compound.

A contender for one of Delhi's best (and best-value) museums, the National Rail Museum has steam locos and carriages spread across 11 acres. Among the venerable bogies are the former Viceregal Dining Car, and the Maharaja of Mysore’s rolling saloon. The new indoor gallery includes some hands-on exhibits, a miniature railway, and three simulators (weekends only). A toy train (adult/child ₹20/10) chuffs around the grounds.

There are extraordinary riches scattered around Mehrauli, with over 440 monuments – from the 10th century to the British era – dotting a forest and the village itself. In the forest, most impressive are the time-ravaged tombs of Balban and Quli Khan, his son, and the Jamali Khamali mosque, attached to the tomb of the Sufi poet Jamali. To the west is the 16th-century Rajon ki Baoli, Delhi's finest step-well, with a monumental flight of steps.

At the northern end of Mehrauli village is Adham Khan’s Mausoleum, which was once used as a British residence, then later as a police station and post office. Leading northwards from the tomb are the pre-Islamic walls of Lal Kot.

To the south of the village are the remains of the Mughal palace, the Zafar Mahal, once in the heart of the jungle. Next door to it is the Sufi shrine, the Dargah of Qutb Sahib. There is a small burial ground with one empty space that was intended for the last king of Delhi, Bahadur Shah Zafar, who died in exile in Burma (Myanmar) in 1862. South of here is a Lodi-era burial ground for hijras (eunuchs), Hijron ka Khanqah ( GOOGLE MAP ; Kalka das Marg; hdawn-dusk; mQutab Minar). The identity of those buried here is unknown, but it's a well-kept, peaceful place, revered by Delhi's hijra community. A little further south are Jahaz Mahal ('ship palace', also built by the Mughals) and the Haus i Shamsi tank ( GOOGLE MAP ; off Mehrauli-Gurgaon Rd).

You can reach the forested part of the park by turning right from the metro station onto Anuvrat Marg and walking 500m. A good way to explore the ruins is by guided walking tour.

This government-run multilevel store is a wonderful treasure trove of fixed-price, India-wide handicrafts. Prices are higher than in the state emporiums, but the selection of woodcarvings, jewellery, pottery, papier mâché, stationery, brassware, textiles (including shawls), toys, rugs, beauty products and miniature paintings makes it a glorious one-stop shop for beautiful crafts. Downstairs there's the Smoothie Factory cafe.

Handily in a row are these regional treasure-filled emporiums. They may have the air of torpor that often afflicts governmental enterprises, but shopping here is like travelling around India – top stops include Kashmir, for papier mâché and carpets; Rajasthan, for miniature paintings and puppets; Uttar Pradesh, for marble inlay work; Karnataka, for sandalwood sculptures; Tamil Nadu, for metal statues; and Odisha, for stone carvings.

Reasonably priced ready-made clothes in funky Indian fabrics, from elegant kurtas (long shirts with either short collar or no collar) and dupattas (long scarves) to Western-style shirts, plus stylish homewares.

Crafts, curios, textiles and homewares from the Crafts Council of India, designed with flair and using traditional techniques but offering some contemporary, out-of-the-ordinary designs.

Khan Market is Delhi's most upmarket shopping enclave, the most expensive place to rent a shop in India, and is favoured by the elite and expats. Its boutiques focus on fashion, books and homewares, and it's also a good place to eat and drink.

This open-air food-and-crafts market is a cavalcade of colour and sells regional handicrafts from all over India; bargain hard. With lots of food stands it’s also a good place to sample cheap, delicious regional specialities – try food from Nagaland or Tamil Nadu (dishes are around ₹70 to ₹100).

This hole-in-the-wall shop sells fixed-price, fair-trade, ubercool T-shirts with funky Indian designs and urban attitude, as well as bags, jewellery and Indian god cushions.

This tiny place with the big red sign and the big crowds is famous for its dahi bhalle (fried lentil balls served with yoghurt and garnished with chutney) and deliciously crispy aloo tikki (spiced potato patties).

Century-old Jalebiwala does Delhi’s – if not India’s – finest jalebis (deep-fried, syrupy dough), so pig out and worry about the calories tomorrow.

Just off the lane leading south from Jama Masjid, Karim’s has been delighting carnivores since 1913. Expect meaty Mughlai treats such as mutton burrah (marinated chops), delicious mutton mughlai, and the breakfast mutton and bread combo nahari. There are branches all over town, including at Nizamuddin West ( GOOGLE MAP ; 168/2 Jha House Basti; dishes ₹120-400; h8am-10pm Tue-Sat; mJLN Stadium), but this location is the oldest and best.

A different experience in the old city, this restored haveli is a labour of love by politician Vijay Goel, and it's good to see one of Old Delhi's grand havelis finally get some TLC. The restaurant is especially atmospheric in the evening, with tables in the courtyard and Mughal and local recipes on the menu.

A family-run hole-in-the-wall serving inexpensive portions of just one dish – chole bhature (spicy chickpeas), accompanied by delicious, freshly made, puffy, fried bread. It’s a traditional breakfast but many people are partial to some at any time of day.

It takes determination to find this place: take the turning for the Hotel Rak International, opposite which is the grotty, unsigned Navrang Guesthouse. Follow the stairs to its rooftop and you’ll find a small, bamboo-lined, softly lit terrace. The Korean food is fresh and delicious here. Try the bibimbap (rice bowl with a mix of vegetables, egg and pickles; ₹240). Beer is available (₹170).

Run by the same folks in charge of the Craft Museum's Cafe Lota, this is a focus for Delhi's arty set, with good-value tasty Indian meals and snacks, such as chilli toast, and nice seating on a leafy terrace overlooking a grassy amphitheatre or inside in a fan-cooled room.

Fabulous dosas, idlis (spongy, round, fermented rice cake) and other South Indian delights. This is the biggest and the best of Delhi's Saravana Bhavan branches, and you can see dosas being made in the back. Also offers great South Indian coffee.

Thalis (traditional ‘all-you-can-eat’ plate meal) fit for a king. Treat yourself with food-of-the-gods vegetarian thalis that encompass a fantastic array of Gujarati and Rajasthani dishes.

A hallowed bargain, the canteen at the Andhra Pradesh state house serves cheap and delicious unlimited South Indian thalis to a seemingly unlimited stream of patrons. Come on Sunday for the fabled Hyderabadi biryani (₹200).

Bamboo slices the sunlight into flattering stripes at this outdoor restaurant offering delicious cooking with a twist. Sample their take on fish and (sweet potato) chips, or palak patta chaat (crispy spinach, potatoes and chickpeas with spiced yoghurt and chutneys), as well as amazing desserts and breakfasts. It's great for kids.

The name is like a typical trade-based Parsi surname, the place emulates the Iranian cafes of Mumbai, and the food is authentic Persian, including vegetable berry pulav, mixed-berry trifle and lagan nu custer (Parsi wedding custard).

One of Delhi’s best restaurants, this hotel eatery with low seating and crazy-paving walls serves wow-factor Northwest Frontier–style cuisine, with silken kebabs and its famous Bukhara dhal. Reservations are essential.

This is the enduring go-to place for excellent Mughlai and Punjabi food. Prices, standards and atmosphere are high along the strip. For quality food, try Gulati ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pandara Market; mains ₹385-685; hnoon-midnight; mKhan Market), Havemore ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pandara Market; mains ₹375-725; hnoon-2am; mKhan Market), Pindi ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pandara Market; mains ₹330-570; hnoon-midnight; mKhan Market) or Chicken Inn ( MAP GOOGLE MAP ; Pandara Market; mains ₹380-700; hnoon-midnight; mKhan Market).

A hip 1st-floor cafe that's spacious and serene, Greenr offers lots of interesting vegan options, such as vegan seitan with ginger coleslaw and teriyaki sauce, plus delicious salads and pasta, and serves up some of Delhi's best coffee, by local roasters Blue Tokai.

In the boutique hotel Manor, chef Manish Mehrotra creates inspired modern Indian cuisine, where seasonal ingredients are married in surprising and beautifully creative combinations. The tasting menu is astoundingly good, with wow-factor combinations such as tandoori bacon prawns or paper dosa filled with wild mushroom and water chestnuts. Book well ahead.

Famous for its top-notch Mangalorean seafood, such as pomfret, prawns or lobster, this busy multilevel restaurant is always heaving and also has regular South and North Indian dishes.

There's nowhere else like this in Connaught Place. You could forget you were in CP, in fact, with the big garden, wrought-iron chairs and tables, swing seats, all under the shade of a mother of a banyan tree hung with basket-weave lanterns. In the evenings there are regular live gigs, anything from alt-rock to electro-fusion. A Kingfisher costs ₹100.

The Imperial, built in the 1930s, resonates with bygone splendour. This bar is a more recent addition, but still riffs on the Raj. Here you can sip the perfect cocktail (around ₹900) amid designer-clad clientele, against a backdrop of faded photos and murals of maharajas.

In an unlikely, tiny lane behind the fake Dilli Haat shopping centre ('Delhi Haat'), Blue Tokai produces and grinds its own amazing coffee; you can get serious caffeine hits such as nitrogen-infused cold brew – there's even a tasting menu. Snacks include 'no leaf salad with pumpkin'.

On the upper floors of a building in the exclusive area of the Defence Colony, this place has stylish, kooky decor in deep, earth-jewel colours, serious mixology (drinks ₹250 to ₹800) showcasing Indian flavours (how about a gin and tonic with turmeric?), modern Indian bar snacks, nightly DJs, and a see-and-be-seen crowd.

The real thing, this popular, proper-muso, atmospheric place is a dimly lit speakeasy with some excellent live jazz performances.

This popular place is near Hauz Khas and has a great glass-covered terrace with views over the tombs of Green Park. It's also one of Delhi's live-music venues, with gigs from 9pm on Thursday and Sunday.