CHAPTER SEVEN
Marriage
and Subversion

OF ALL THE ACTIONS OF A MAN'S LIFE, HIS
MARRIAGE
DOES LEAST CONCERN OTHER PEOPLE; YET OF ALL THE ACTIONS OF
OUR LIFE, 'TIS THE MOST MEDDLED WITH BY OTHER PEOPLE.
DOES LEAST CONCERN OTHER PEOPLE; YET OF ALL THE ACTIONS OF
OUR LIFE, 'TIS THE MOST MEDDLED WITH BY OTHER PEOPLE.
--John Selden, 1689
By late October 2006, we had returned to Bali and
settled back into Felipe's old house in the rice fields. There, we
planned to wait out the rest of his immigration process quietly,
with our heads down, inciting no more stress or conflict. It felt
good to be in a more familiar place, good to stop moving. This was
the house where, almost three years earlier, we had first fallen in
love. This was the house that Felipe had given up only one year
earlier in order to move in with me "permanently" in Philadelphia.
This house was the closest thing to a real home that we could find
right now, and man, were we happy to see it.
I watched Felipe melt with relief as he wandered
around the old place, touching and smelling every familiar object
with an almost canine pleasure. Everything was the same as he had
left it. There was the open terrace upstairs with the rattan couch
where Felipe had, as he likes to say, seduced me. There was the comfortable bed where we
had made love for the first time. There was the dinky kitchen
filled with plates and dishes that I had bought for Felipe right
after we met because his bachelor accoutrements depressed me. There
was the quiet desk in the corner where I had worked on my last
book. There was Raja, the neighbor's friendly old orange dog (whom
Felipe had always called "Roger"), limping about happily, growling
at his own shadow. There were the ducks in the rice field,
wandering about and muttering among themselves about some recent
poultry scandal.
There was even a coffeepot.
Just like that, Felipe became himself again:
kind, attentive, nice. He had his little corner and his routines. I
had my books. We both had a familiar bed to share. We relaxed as
much as possible into a period of waiting for the Department of
Homeland Security to decide Felipe's fate. We fell into an almost
narcotic pause during the next two months--something like our
friend Keo's meditating frogs. I read, Felipe cooked, sometimes we
took a slow walk around the village and visited old friends. But
what I remember most about that spell of time in Bali were the
nights.
Here's something you wouldn't necessarily expect
of Bali: The place is bloody loud. I once
lived in a Manhattan apartment facing 14th Street, and that place
was not nearly as loud as this rural Balinese village. There were
nights in Bali when the two of us would be simultaneously awakened
by the sound of dogs fighting, or roosters arguing, or an
enthusiastic ceremonial procession. Other times, we were pulled out
of sleep by the weather, which could behave with startling drama.
We always slept with the windows open, and there were nights when
the wind blew so hard that we would wake to find ourselves all
twisted up in the fabric of our mosquito netting, like seaweed
trapped in a sail-boat's rigging. Then we would untangle each other
and lie in the hot darkness, talking.
One of my favorite passages in literature is
from Italo Calvino's Invisible Cities. In
it, Calvino described an imaginary town called Eufemia, where the
merchants of all nations gather at every solstice and every equinox
to exchange goods. But these merchants do not come together merely
to trade spices or jewels or livestock or textiles. Rather, they
come to this town to exchange stories with
each other--to literally trade in personal intimacies. The way it
works, Calvino wrote, is that the men gather around the desert
bonfires at night, and each man offers up a word, like "sister," or
"wolf," or "buried treasure." Then all the other men take turns
telling their own personal stories of sisters, of wolves, of buried
treasures. And in the months to come, long after the merchants
leave Eufemia, when they ride their camels alone across the desert
or sail the long route to China, each man combats his boredom by
dredging through his old memories. And that's when the men discover
that their memories really have been
traded--that, as Calvino wrote, "their sister had been exchanged
for another's sister, their wolf for another's wolf."
This is what intimacy does to us over time.
That's what a long marriage can do: It causes us to inherit and
trade each other's stories. This, in part, is how we become annexes
of each other, trellises on which each other's biography can grow.
Felipe's private history becomes a piece of my memory; my life gets
woven into the material of his. Recalling that imaginary
story-trading town of Eufemia, and thinking of the tiny narrative
stitches that comprise human intimacy, I would sometimes--at three
o'clock in the morning on a sleepless night in Bali--feed Felipe a
specific word, just to see what memories I could summon out of him.
At my cue, at the word I had offered up to him, Felipe would lie
there beside me in the dark telling me his scattered stories of
sisters, of buried treasures, of wolves, and also more--of beaches,
birds, feet, princes, competitions . . .
I remember one hot, damp night when I woke up
after a motorcycle without a muffler had blasted past our window,
and I sensed that Felipe was also awake. Once more, I selected a
word at random.
"Please tell me a story about fish," I
requested.
Felipe thought for a long while.
Then he took his time in the moonlit room to
recount a memory of going fishing with his father on overnight
trips when he was just a little kid back in Brazil. They would head
off to some wild river together, just the child and the man, and
they would camp there for days--barefoot and shirtless the whole
time, living on what they caught. Felipe wasn't as smart as his
older brother Gildo (everyone agreed on this), and he wasn't as
charming as his big sister Lily (everyone agreed on that, too), but
he was known in the family to be the best helper and so he was the
only one who ever got to go on the fishing trips alone with his
father, even though he was very small.
Felipe's main job on those expeditions was to
help his dad set the nets across the river. It was all about
strategy. His dad wouldn't talk to him much during the day (too
busy focusing on the fishing), but every night over the open fire,
he would lay out his plan--man to man--for the next day about where
they would fish. Felipe's father would ask his six-year-old son,
"Did you see that tree about a mile up the river that's halfway
submerged? What do you think about us going there tomorrow, to
investigate?" and Felipe would squat there by the fire, all alert
and serious, listening manfully, focusing on the plan, nodding his
approval.
Felipe's father was not an ambitious guy, not a
great thinker, not a captain of industry. Truthfully, he was not
very industrious at all. But he was a fearless swimmer. He would
clench his big hunting knife in his teeth and swim across those
wide rivers, checking his nets and traps while he left his little
boy alone back on the bank. It was both terrifying and thrilling
for Felipe to watch his father strip down to his shorts, bite that
knife, and fight his way across the swift current--knowing all the
while that if his father was swept away, he himself would be
abandoned there in the middle of nowhere.
But his father was never swept away. He was too
strong. In the nighttime heat of our bedroom in Bali, under our
damp and billowing mosquito nets, Felipe showed me what a strong
swimmer his dad had been. He imitated his father's beautiful
stroke, lying there on his back in the humid night air, swimming, his arms faint and ghostly. Across all
these lost decades, Felipe could still replicate the exact
sound that his father's arms made as they
sliced through the fast dark waters: "Shush-a,
shush-a, shush-a . . ."
And now that memory--that sound--swam through
me, too. I even felt as though I could remember it, despite having
never met Felipe's father, who died years ago. In fact, there are
probably only about four people alive in the whole world who
remember Felipe's father at all anymore, and only one of
them--until the moment Felipe shared this story with me--recalled
exactly how that man had looked and sounded when he used to swim
across wide Brazilian rivers in the middle years of the last
century. But now I felt that I could remember it, too, in a strange
and personal way.
This is intimacy: the
trading of stories in the dark.
This act, the act of quiet nighttime talking,
illustrates for me more than anything else the curious alchemy of
companionship. Because when Felipe described his father's swimming
stroke, I took that watery image and I stitched it carefully into
the hem of my own life, and now I will carry that around with me
forever. As long as I live, and even long after Felipe has gone,
his childhood memory, his father, his river, his Brazil--all of
this, too, has somehow become me.

A few weeks into our sojourn in Bali, there was
finally a breakthrough in the immigration case.
According to our lawyer back in Philadelphia,
the FBI had cleared my criminal background report. I'd passed
cleanly. I was now considered a safe risk for marrying a foreigner,
which meant that the Department of Homeland Security could finally
begin processing Felipe's immigration application. If all went
well--if they granted him the elusive golden ticket of a fiance
visa--he might be allowed to return to America within the space of
three months. The end was now in sight. Our marriage had now become
imminent. The immigration documents, assuming Felipe secured them,
would stipulate quite clearly that this man was allowed to enter
America again, but for only and exactly thirty days, during which
time he had to marry a particular citizen named Elizabeth Gilbert,
and only a particular citizen named
Elizabeth Gilbert, or he would face permanent deportation. The
government would not be issuing an actual shotgun along with all
the paperwork, but it did sort of have that feeling.
As this news filtered back to all our family
members and friends around the world, we started getting questions
from people about what kind of wedding ceremony we were planning.
When would the wedding be? Where would it be? Who would be invited?
I dodged everyone's questions. Truthfully, I hadn't planned
anything special around a wedding ceremony simply because I found
the whole idea of a public wedding entirely agitating.
I had stumbled in my studies on a letter that
Anton Chekhov wrote to his fiancee, Olga Knipper, on April 26,
1901, a letter that perfectly expressed the sum of all my fears.
Chekhov wrote, "If you give me your word that not a soul in Moscow
will know about our wedding until after it has taken place, I am
ready to marry you on the very day of my arrival. For some reason I
am horribly afraid of the wedding ceremony and the congratulations
and the Champagne that you must hold in your hand while you smile
vaguely. I wish we could go straight from the church to Zvenigorod.
Or perhaps we could get married in Zvenigorod. Think, think,
darling! You are clever, they say."
Yes! Think!
I, too, wanted to skip all the fuss and go
straight to Zvenigorod--and I'd never even heard of Zvenigorod! I just wanted to get married as
furtively and privately as possible, perhaps without even telling
anyone. Weren't there judges and mayors out there who could execute
such a job painlessly enough? When I confided these thoughts in an
e-mail to my sister Catherine, she replied, "You make marriage
sound like a colonoscopy." But I can attest that after months of
intrusive questions from the Homeland Security Department, a
colonoscopy was exactly what our upcoming wedding was beginning to
feel like.
Still, as it turned out, there were some people
in our lives who felt this event should be honored with a proper
ceremony, and my sister was foremost among them. She sent me gentle
but frequent e-mails from Philadelphia concerning the possibility
of throwing a wedding party for us at her house when we returned
home. It wouldn't have to be anything fancy, she promised, but
still . . .
My palms dampened at the very thought of it. I
protested that this really was not necessary, that Felipe and I
didn't really roll that way. Catherine wrote in her next message,
"What if I just happened to throw a big birthday party for myself,
and you and Felipe happened to come? Would I be allowed to at least
make a toast to your marriage?"
I committed to no such thing.
She tried again: "What if I just happened to
throw a big party while you guys were at my house, but you and
Felipe wouldn't even have to come downstairs? You could just lock yourselves upstairs
with the lights off. And when I made the wedding toast, I would
casually wave my champagne glass in the general direction of the
attic door? Is even that too
threatening?"
Oddly, indefensibly, perversely: yes.
When I tried to sort out my resistance to a
public wedding ceremony, I had to admit that part of the issue was
simple embarrassment. How very awkward to stand in front of one's
family and friends (many of whom had been guests at one's first
wedding) and swear solemn vows for life all over again. Hadn't they
all seen this film already? One's credibility does begin to tarnish
after too much of this sort of thing. And Felipe, too, had once
before sworn lifetime vows only to leave the marriage after
seventeen years. What a pair we made! To paraphrase Oscar Wilde:
One divorce may be regarded as a misfortune, but two begins to
smack of carelessness.
Furthermore, I could never forget what the
etiquette columnist Miss Manners has to say on this very subject.
While expressing her conviction that people should be allowed to
marry as many times as they like, she does believe that each of us
is entitled to only one big fanfare wedding ceremony per lifetime.
(This may seem a bit overly Protestant and repressive, I know--but
curiously enough, the Hmong feel the same way. When I'd asked that
grandmother back in Vietnam about the traditional Hmong procedure
for second marriages, she had replied, "Second weddings are exactly
the same as first weddings--except with not as many pigs.")
Moreover, a second or third big wedding puts
family members and friends in the awkward position of wondering if
they must shower repeat brides with gifts and abundant attention
all over again. The answer, apparently, is no. As Miss Manners once
coolly explained to a reader, the proper technique for
congratulating a serial bride-to-be is to eschew all the gifts and
galas and simply write the lady a note expressing how very
delighted you are for her happiness, wishing her all the luck in
the world, and being very careful to avoid using the words "this
time."
My God, how those two indicting little
words--this time--make me cringe. Yet it
was true. The recollections of last time
felt all too recent for me, all too painful. Also, I didn't like
the idea that guests at a bride's second wedding are just as likely
to be thinking about her first spouse as they are to be thinking
about her new spouse--and that the bride, too, will probably be
remembering her ex-husband on that day. First spouses, I have
learned, don't ever really go away--even if you aren't speaking to
them anymore. They are phantoms who dwell in the corners of our new
love stories, never entirely vanishing from sight, materializing in
our minds whenever they please, offering up unwelcome comments or
bits of painfully accurate criticism. "We know you better than you
know yourselves" is what the ghosts of our ex-spouses like to
remind us, and what they know about us, unfortunately, is often not
pretty.
"There are four minds in the bed of a divorced
man who marries a divorced woman," says a fourth-century Talmudic
document--and indeed, our former spouses do often haunt our beds. I
still dream about my ex-husband, for instance, far more than I
would ever have imagined back when I left him. Usually these dreams
are agitating and confusing. On rare occasions, they are warm or
conciliatory. It doesn't really matter, though: I can neither
control the dreams nor stop them. He shows up in my subconscious
whenever he pleases, entering without knocking. He still has the
keys to that house. Felipe dreams about his ex-wife, too. I dream about Felipe's ex-wife, for heaven's sake. I
sometimes even dream about my ex-husband's new wife, whom I have
never met, whose photograph I have never even seen--yet she appears
in my dreams sometimes, and we converse there. (In fact, we hold
summit meetings.) And I wouldn't be surprised if somewhere in this
world my ex-husband's second wife is intermittently dreaming about
me--trying in her subconscious to work out the strange folds and
seams of our connection.
My friend Ann--divorced twenty years ago and
happily remarried since to a wonderful, older man--assures me that
this will all go away over time. She swears that the ghosts do
recede, that there will come a time when I never think about my
ex-husband again. I don't know, though. I find that hard to
picture. I can imagine it easing, but I
can't imagine it ever going away completely, especially because my
first marriage ended so sloppily, with so much left unresolved. My
ex-husband and I never once agreed on what had gone wrong with our
relationship. It was shocking, our total absence of consensus. Such
completely different worldviews are probably also an indication of
why we should never have been together in the first place; we were
the only two eye-witnesses to the death of our marriage, and we
each walked away with a completely different testimony as to what
had happened.
Thus, perhaps, the dim sense of haunting. So we
lead separate lives now, my ex-husband and I, yet he still visits
my dreams in the form of an avatar who probes and debates and
reconsiders from a thousand different angles an eternal docket of
unfinished business. It's awkward. It's eerie. It's ghostly, and I
didn't want to provoke that ghost with a big loud ceremony or
celebration.
Maybe another reason Felipe and I were so
resistant to exchanging ceremonial vows was that we felt we'd
already done it. We'd already exchanged vows in an utterly private
ceremony of our own devising. This had happened back in Knoxville,
in April 2005--back when Felipe first came to live with me in that
odd decaying hotel on the square. We had gone out one day and
bought ourselves a pair of simple gold rings. Then we'd written out
our promises to each other and read them aloud. We put the rings on
each other's fingers, sealed our commitment with a kiss and tears,
and that was it. Both of us had felt like that was enough. In all
the ways that mattered, then, we believed that we were already
married.
Nobody saw this happen except the two of us
(and--one hopes--God). And needless to say, nobody respected those
vows of ours in any way whatsoever (except the two of us
and--again, one hopes--God). I invite you to imagine how the
deputies of the Homeland Security Department, for instance, might
have responded back at the Dallas/ Fort Worth Airport if I had
tried to convince them that a private commitment ceremony held in a
Knoxville hotel room had somehow rendered Felipe and me as good as
legally married.
Truth be told, it seemed mostly irritating to
people--even to people who loved us--that Felipe and I were walking
around wearing wedding rings without having had an official and
legal marriage ceremony. The consensus was that our actions were
confusing at best, pathetic at worst. "No!" declared my old friend
Brian in an e-mail from North Carolina when I told him that Felipe
and I had recently exchanged private vows. "No, you cannot just do it that way!" he insisted. "That's
not enough! You must have some kind of real wedding!"
Brian and I argued over this subject for weeks,
and I was surprised to discover his adamancy on the topic. I
thought that he, of all people, would understand why Felipe and I
shouldn't need to marry publicly or legally just to satisfy other
people's conventions. Brian is one of the happiest married men I
know (his devotion to Linda makes him the living definition of the
marvelous word uxorious, or
"wife-worshiping"), but he's also quite possibly my most naturally
nonconformist friend. He bends comfortably to no socially accepted
norm whatsoever. He's basically a pagan with a Ph.D. who lives in a
cabin in the woods with a composting toilet; this was hardly Miss
Manners. But Brian was uncompromising in his insistence that
private vows spoken only before God do not count as marriage.
"MARRIAGE IS NOT
PRAYER!" he insisted (italics and capitals his). "That's why
you have to do it in front of others, even
in front of your aunt who smells like cat litter. It's a paradox,
but marriage actually reconciles a lot of paradoxes: freedom with
commitment, strength with subordination, wisdom with utter
nincompoopery, etc. And you're missing the main point--it's not
just to 'satisfy' other people. Rather, you have to hold your
wedding guests to their end of the deal.
They have to help you with your marriage;
they have to support you or Felipe, if one of you falters."
The only person who seemed more annoyed than
Brian about our private commitment ceremony was my niece Mimi, age
seven. First of all, Mimi felt prodigiously ripped off that I
hadn't thrown a real wedding, because she really wanted to be a
flower girl at least once in her life and had never yet been given
the chance. Meanwhile, her best friend and rival Moriya had already
been a flower girl twice--and Mimi wasn't
getting any younger here, people.
Moreover, our actions in Tennessee offended my
niece on an almost semantic level. It had been suggested to Mimi
that she could now, after that exchange of private vows in
Knoxville, refer to Felipe as her uncle--but she wasn't having it.
Nor did her older brother Nick buy it. It wasn't that my sister's
kids didn't like Felipe. It's just that an uncle, as Nick (age ten)
instructed me sternly, is either the brother of your father or
mother, or he is the man who is legally
married to your aunt. Felipe, therefore, was not officially Nick
and Mimi's uncle any more than he was officially my husband, and
there was nothing I could do to convince them otherwise. Children
at that age are nothing if not sticklers for convention. Hell,
they're practically census takers. To punish me for my civil
disobedience, Mimi took to calling Felipe her "uncle" using the
sarcastic air quotes every time. Sometimes she even referred to him
as my "husband"--again with the air quotes and the hint of
irritated disdain.
One night back in 2005, when Felipe and I were
having dinner at Catherine's house, I had asked Mimi what it would
take for her to consider my commitment to Felipe a valid one. She
was unyielding in her certainty. "You need to have a real wedding," she said.
"But what makes something a real wedding?" I
asked.
"You need to have a person there." Now she was frankly exasperated. "You
can't just make promises with nobody seeing it. There has to be a
person who watches when you make
promises."
Curiously enough, Mimi was making a strong
intellectual and historical point there. As the philosopher David
Hume explained, witnesses are necessary in all societies when it
comes to important vows. The reason is that it's not possible to
tell whether a person is telling the truth or lying when he speaks
a promise. The speaker may have, as Hume called it, "a secret
direction of thought" hidden behind the noble and high-flown words.
The presence of the witness, though, negates any concealed
intentions. It doesn't matter anymore whether you meant what you said; it matters merely that you
said what you said, and that a third party
witnessed you saying it. It is the witness, then, who becomes the
living seal of the promise, notarizing the vow with real weight.
Even in the early European Middle Ages, before the times of
official church or government weddings, the expression of a vow
before a single witness was all it took to seal a couple together
forever in a state of legal matrimony. Even then, you couldn't do
it entirely on your own. Even then, somebody had to watch.
"Would it satisfy you," I asked Mimi, "if Felipe
and I promised wedding vows to each other, right here in your
kitchen, in front of you?"
"Yeah, but who would be the person?" she asked.
"Why don't you be the person?" I suggested.
"That way you can be sure it's done properly."
This was a brilliant plan. Making sure that
things are done properly is Mimi's specialty. This is a girl who
was veritably born to be the person. And
I'm proud to report that she rose to the occasion. Right there in
the kitchen, while her mother cooked dinner, Mimi asked Felipe and
me if we would please rise and face her. She asked us to please
hand her the gold "wedding" rings (again with the air quotes) that
we had already been wearing for months. These rings she promised to
hold safely until the ceremony was over.
Then she improvised a matrimonial ritual,
cobbled together, I supposed, from various movies she had seen in
her seven long years of life.
"Do you promise to love each other all the
time?" she asked.
We promised.
"Do you promise to love each other through sick
and not sick?"
We promised.
"Do you promise to love each other through mad
and not mad?"
We promised.
"Do you promise to love each other through rich
and not so rich?" (The idea of flat-out poor, apparently, was not
something Mimi cared to wish upon us; thus "not so rich" would have
to suffice.)
We promised.
We all stood there for a moment in silence. It
was evident that Mimi would have liked to remain in the
authoritative position of the person for a
bit longer, but she couldn't come up with anything else that needed
promising. So she gave us back our rings and instructed us to place
them on each other's fingers.
"You may now kiss the bride," she
pronounced.
Felipe kissed me. Catherine gave a small cheer
and went back to stirring the clam sauce. Thus concluded, right
there in my sister's kitchen, the second non-legally-binding
commitment ceremony of Liz and Felipe. This time with an actual
witness.
I hugged Mimi. "Satisfied?"
She nodded.
But plainly--you could read it all over her
face--she was not.

What is it about a
public, legal wedding ceremony that means so much to everybody
anyhow? And why was I so stubbornly--almost
belligerently--resistant to it? My aversion made even less sense,
considering that I happen to be somebody who loves ritual and
ceremony to an inordinate degree. Look, I've studied my Joseph
Campbell, I've read The Golden Bough, and I
get it. I thoroughly recognize that ceremony is essential to
humans: It's a circle that we draw around important events to
separate the momentous from the ordinary. And ritual is a sort of
magical safety harness that guides us from one stage of our lives
into the next, making sure we don't stumble or lose ourselves along
the way. Ceremony and ritual march us carefully right through the
center of our deepest fears about change, much the same way that a
stable boy can lead a blindfolded horse right through the center of
a fire, whispering, "Don't overthink this, buddy, okay? Just put
one hoof in front of the other and you'll come out on the other
side just fine."
I even understand why people feel it's so
important to witness each other's ritualistic ceremonies. My
father--not an especially conventional man by any means--was always
adamant that we must attend the wakes and funerals of anyone in our
hometown who ever died. The point, he explained, was not
necessarily to honor the dead or to comfort the living. Instead,
you went to these ceremonies so that you could be seen--specifically seen, for instance, by the wife
of the deceased. You needed to make sure that she catalogued your
face and registered the fact that you had attended her husband's
funeral. This was not so you could earn social points or get extra
credit for being a nice person, but rather so that the next time
you ran into the widow at the supermarket she would be spared the
awful uncertainty of wondering whether you had heard her sad news.
Having seen you at her husband's funeral, she would already know
that you knew. She would therefore not have
to repeat the story of her loss to you all over again, and you
would be saved the awkward necessity of expressing your condolences
right there in the middle of the produce aisle because you had
already expressed them at the church, where such words are
appropriate. This public ceremony of death, therefore, somehow
squared you and the widow with each other--and also somehow
spared the two of you social discomfort and
uncertainty. Your business with each other was settled. You were
safe.
This is what my friends and family wanted, I
realized, when they were asking for a public wedding ceremony
between Felipe and me. It wasn't that they wanted to dress in fine
clothing, dance in uncomfortable shoes, or dine on the chicken or
the fish. What my friends and family really wanted was to be able
to move on with their lives knowing with certainty where everybody
stood in relationship to everybody else. This was what Mimi
wanted--to be squared and spared. She wanted the clear assurance
that she could now take the words "uncle" and "husband" out of air
quotes and continue her life without awkwardly wondering whether
she was now required to honor Felipe as a family member or not. And
it was quite clear that the only way she was ever going to offer up
her full loyalty to this union was if she could personally witness
the exchange of legal vows.
I knew all this, and I understood it. Still, I
resisted. The main problem was that--even after several months
spent reading about marriage and thinking about marriage and
talking about marriage--I was still not yet entirely convinced about marriage. I was not yet sure that I
bought the package of goods that matrimony was selling. Truthfully,
I was still feeling resentful that Felipe and I had to marry at all
merely because the government demanded it of us. And probably the
reason this all bothered me so deeply and at such a fundamental
level, I finally realized, is that I am Greek.
Please understand, I do not mean that I am
literally Greek, as in: from the country of
Greece, or a member of a collegiate fraternity, or enamored of the
sexual passion that bonds two men in love. Instead, I mean that I
am Greek in the way I think. Because here's the thing: It has long
been understood by philosophers that the entire bedrock of Western
culture is based on two rival worldviews--the Greek and the
Hebrew--and whichever side you embrace more strongly determines to
a large extent how you see life.
From the Greeks--specifically from the glory
days of ancient Athens--we have inherited our ideas about secular
humanism and the sanctity of the individual. The Greeks gave us all
our notions about democracy and equality and personal liberty and
scientific reason and intellectual freedom and open-mindedness and
what we might call today "multiculturalism." The Greek take on
life, therefore, is urban, sophisticated, and exploratory, always
leaving plenty of room for doubt and debate.
On the other hand, there is the Hebrew way of
seeing the world. When I say "Hebrew" here, I'm not specifically
referring to the tenets of Judaism. (In fact, most of the
contemporary American Jews I know are very Greek in their thinking,
while it's the American fundamentalist Christians these days who
are profoundly Hebrew.) "Hebrew," in the sense that philosophers
use it here, is shorthand for an ancient worldview that is all
about tribalism, faith, obedience, and respect. The Hebrew credo is
clannish, patriarchal, authoritarian, moralistic, ritualistic, and
instinctively suspicious of outsiders. Hebrew thinkers see the
world as a clear play between good and evil, with God always firmly
on "our" side. Human actions are either right or wrong. There is no
gray area. The collective is more important than the individual,
morality is more important than happiness, and vows are
inviolable.
The problem is that modern Western culture has
somehow inherited both these ancient worldviews--though we have
never entirely reconciled them because they aren't reconcilable.
(Have you followed an American election
cycle recently?) American society is therefore a funny amalgam of
both Greek and Hebrew thinking. Our legal code is mostly Greek; our
moral code is mostly Hebrew. We have no way of thinking about
independence and intellect and the sanctity of the individual that
is not Greek. We have no way of thinking about righteousness and
God's will that is not Hebrew. Our sense of fairness is Greek; our
sense of justice is Hebrew.
And when it comes to our ideas about love--well,
we are a tangled mess of both. In survey after survey, Americans
express their belief in two completely contradictory ideas about
marriage. On one hand (the Hebrew hand), we overwhelmingly believe
as a nation that marriage should be a lifetime vow, never broken.
On the other, Greek, hand, we equally believe that an individual
should always have the right to get divorced, for his or her own
personal reasons.
How can both these ideas be simultaneously true?
No wonder we're so confused. No wonder Americans get married more
often, and get divorced more often, than any other people in any
other nation on earth. We keep ping-ponging back and forth between
two rival views of love. Our Hebrew (or biblical/moral) view of
love is based on devotion to God--which is all about submission
before a sacrosanct creed, and we absolutely believe in that. Our
Greek (or philosophical/ethical) view of love is based on devotion
to nature--which is all about exploration, beauty, and a deep
reverence for self-expression. And we absolutely believe in that,
too.
The perfect Greek lover is erotic; the perfect
Hebrew lover is faithful.
Passion is Greek; fidelity is Hebrew.
This idea came to haunt me because, on the
Greek-Hebrew spectrum, I fall much closer to the Greek end. Did
this make me an especially poor candidate for matrimony? I worried
that it did. We Greeks don't feel comfortable sacrificing the Self
upon the altar of tradition; it just feels oppressive and scary to
us. I worried about all this even more after I stumbled on one tiny
but critical piece of information from that massive Rutgers study
on matrimony. Apparently the researchers found evidence to support
the notion that marriages in which both husband and wife
wholeheartedly respect the sanctity of matrimony itself are more
likely to endure than marriages where couples are perhaps a bit
more suspicious of the institution. It seems, then, that respecting
marriage is a precondition for staying married.
Though I suppose that makes sense, right? You
need to believe in what you're pledging, don't you, for a promise
to have any weight? Because marriage is not merely a vow made to
another individual; that's the easy part. Marriage is also a vow
made to a vow. I know for certain that
there are people who stay married forever not necessarily because
they love their spouses, but because they love their principles. They will go to their graves still bound
in loyal matrimony to somebody they may actively loathe just
because they promised something before God to that person, and they
would no longer recognize themselves if they dishonored such a
promise.
Clearly, I am not such a being. In the past, I
was given the clear choice between honoring my vow and honoring my
own life, and I chose myself over the promise. I refuse to say that
this necessarily makes me an unethical
person (one could argue that choosing liberation over misery is a
way of honoring life's miracle), but it did bring up a dilemma when
it came to getting married to Felipe. While I was just Hebrew
enough to dearly wish that I would stay married forever this time
(yes, let's just go ahead and use those shaming words: this time), I had not yet found a way to respect
wholeheartedly the institution of matrimony itself. I had not yet
found a place for myself within the history of marriage where I
felt that I belonged, where I felt that I could recognize myself.
This absence of respect and self-recognition caused me to fear that
not even I would believe my own sworn vows on my own wedding
day.
Trying to sort this out, I brought up the
question with Felipe. Now I should say here that Felipe was
considerably more relaxed about all this than I was. While he
didn't hold any more affection for the institution of marriage than
I did, he kept telling me, "At this point, darling, it's all just a
game. The government has set the rules and now we have to play
their game in order to get what we want. Personally, I'm willing to
play any game whatsoever, as long as it means that I ultimately can
live my life with you in peace."
That mode of thinking worked for him, but
gamesmanship wasn't what I was looking for here; I needed a certain
level of earnestness and authenticity. Still, Felipe could see my
agitation on this subject, and--God bless the man--he was kind
enough to listen to me muse for quite a long while on the rival
philosophies of Western civilization and how they were affecting my
views on matrimony. But when I asked Felipe whether he felt himself
to be more Greek or more Hebrew in his thinking, he replied,
"Darling--none of this really applies to me."
"Why not?" I asked.
"I'm not Greek or
Hebrew."
"What are you then?"
"I'm Brazilian."
"But what does that even mean?"
Felipe laughed. "Nobody knows! That's the
wonderful thing about being Brazilian. It doesn't mean anything! So
you can use your Brazilianness as an excuse to live your life any
way you want. It's a brilliant strategy, actually. It's taken me
far."
"So how does that help me?"
"Perhaps it can help you to relax! You're about
to marry a Brazilian. Why don't you start thinking like a
Brazilian?"
"How?"
"By choosing what you want! That's the Brazilian
way, isn't it? We borrow everyone's ideas, mix it all up, and then
we create something new out of it. Listen--what is it that you like
so much about the Greeks?"
"Their sense of humanity," I said.
"And what is it that you like--if
anything--about the Hebrews?"
"Their sense of honor," I said.
"Okay, so that's settled--we'll take them both.
Humanity and honor. We'll make a marriage out of that combination.
We'll call it a Brazilian blend. We'll shape this thing to our own
code."
"Can we just do that?"
"Darling!" Felipe said, and he took my face
between his hands with a sudden, frustrated urgency. "When are you
going to understand? As soon as we secure this bloody visa and get
ourselves safely married back in America, we
can do whatever the hell we want."

Can we, though?
I prayed that Felipe was right, but I wasn't
sure. My deepest fear about marriage, when I dug right down to the
very bottom of it, was that matrimony would end up shaping us far
more than we could ever possibly shape it. All my months of
studying marriage had only caused me to fear this potentiality more
than ever. I had come to believe that matrimony as an institution
was impressively powerful. It was certainly far bigger and older
and deeper and more complicated than Felipe or I could ever
possibly be. No matter how modern and sophisticated Felipe and I
might feel, I feared we would step onto the assembly line of
marriage and soon enough find ourselves molded into spouses-- crammed into some deeply conventional
shape that benefited society, even if it did not entirely benefit
us.
All this was disquieting because, as annoying as
it may sound, I do like to think of myself as vaguely bohemian. I'm
not an anarchist or anything, but it does comfort me to regard my
life in terms of a certain instinctive resistance to conformity.
Felipe, to be honest, likes to think of himself in much the same
way. Okay, let's all be truthful here and admit that most of us probably like to think of ourselves in
these terms, right? It's charming, after all, to imagine oneself as
an eccentric nonconformist, even when one has just purchased a
coffeepot. So maybe the whole idea of bending under the convention
of marriage stung a bit for me--stung at that stubborn old level of
anti-authoritarian Greek pride. Honestly, I wasn't sure I would
ever get around that issue.
That is, until I discovered Ferdinand
Mount.

Pawing through the Web one day for further clues
on marriage, I stumbled on a curious-looking academic work titled
The Subversive Family by a British author
named Ferdinand Mount. I promptly ordered the book and had my
sister ship it to me in Bali. I loved the title and was certain
this text would relay inspiring stories of couples who had somehow
figured out ways to beat the system and undermine social authority,
keeping true to their rebel roots, all within the institution of
marriage. Perhaps I would find my role models here!
Indeed, subversion was the topic of this book,
but not at all in the manner I'd expected. This was hardly a
seditious manifesto, which shouldn't have been surprising given
that it turns out Ferdinand Mount (beg pardon--make that Sir
William Robert Ferdinand Mount, 3rd Baronet) is a conservative
columnist for the London Sunday Times. I
can honestly say that I never would have ordered this book had I
known that fact in advance. But I'm happy that I did find it,
because sometimes salvation comes to us in the most unlikely of
forms, and Sir Mount (surmount?) did
provide me with a sort of rescue, offering up an idea about
matrimony that was radically different from anything I'd unearthed
before.
Mount--I'll eschew his title from here on
out--suggests that all marriages are automatic acts of subversion
against authority. (All nonarranged marriages, that is. Which is to
say all nontribal, nonclannish, non-property-based marriages. Which
is to say Western marriage.) The families that grow out of such
willful and personal unions are subversive units, too. As Mount
puts it: "The family is a subversive
organization. In fact, it is the ultimate and only consistently
subversive organization. Only the family has continued throughout
history, and still continues, to undermine the State. The family is
the enduring permanent enemy of all hierarchies, churches and
ideologies. Not only dictators, bishops and commissars but also
humble parish priests and cafe intellectuals find themselves
repeatedly coming up against the stony hostility of the family and
its determination to resist interference to the last."
Now that is some seriously strong language, but
Mount builds a compelling case. He suggests that because couples in
nonarranged marriages join together for such deeply private
reasons, and because those couples create such secret lives for
themselves within their union, they are innately threatening to
anybody who wants to rule the world. The first goal of any given
authoritarian body is to inflict control on any given population,
through coercion, indoctrination, intimidation, or propaganda. But
authority figures, much to their frustration, have never been able
to entirely control, or even monitor, the most secret intimacies
that pass between two people who sleep together on a regular
basis.
Even the Stasi of communist East Germany--the
most effective totalitarian police force the world has ever
known--could not listen in on every single private conversation in
every single private household at three o'clock in the morning.
Nobody has ever been able to do this. No matter how modest or
trivial or serious the pillow talk, such hushed hours belong
exclusively to the two people who are sharing them with each other.
What passes between a couple alone in the dark is the very
definition of the word "privacy." And I'm talking not just about
sex here but about its far more subversive aspect: intimacy. Every couple in the world has the
potential over time to become a small and isolated nation of
two--creating their own culture, their own language, and their own
moral code, to which nobody else can be privy.
Emily Dickinson wrote, "Of all the Souls that
stand create--/ I have elected--One." That right there--the idea
that, for our own private reasons, many of us do end up electing
one person to love and defend above all others--is a situation that
has exasperated family, friends, religious institutions, political
movements, immigration officials, and military bodies forever. That
selection, that narrowness of intimacy is maddening to anyone who
longs to control you. Why do you think American slaves were never
legally permitted to marry? Because it was far too dangerous for
slave owners to even consider allowing a person held in captivity
to experience the wide range of emotional freedom and innate
secrecy that marriage can cultivate. Marriage represented a kind of
liberty of the heart, and none of that business could be tolerated
within an enslaved population.
For this reason, as Mount argues, powerful
entities across the ages have always tried to undercut natural
human bonds in order to increase their own power. Whenever a new
revolutionary movement or cult or religion comes to town, the game
always begins the same way: with an effort to separate you--the
individual--from your preexisting loyalties. You must swear a blood
oath of utter allegiance to your new overlords, masters, dogma,
godhead, or nation. As Mount writes, "You are to renounce all other
worldly goods and attachments and follow the Flag or the Cross or
the Crescent or the Hammer and Sickle." In short, you must disown
your real family and swear that we are your
family now. In addition, you must embrace the new, externally
mandated, family-like arrangements that have been imposed on you
(like the monastery, the kibbutz, the party cadre, the commune, the
platoon, the gang, etc.). And if you choose to honor your wife or
husband or lover above the collective, you have somehow failed and
betrayed the movement, and you shall be denounced as selfish,
backwards, or even treasonous.
But people keep doing it anyhow. They keep on
resisting the collective and electing one person among the masses
to love. We saw this happen in the early days of
Christianity--remember? The early church fathers instructed quite
clearly that people were now to choose celibacy over marriage. That
was to be the new social construct. While it's true that some early
converts did become celibate, most decidedly did not. Eventually
the Christian leadership had to cave and accept that marriage was
not going away. The Marxists encountered the same problem when they
tried to create a new world order in which children would be raised
in communal nurseries, and where there would be no particular
attachments whatsoever between couples. But the communists didn't
have any more luck enforcing that idea than the early Christians
had. The fascists didn't have any luck with it either. They
influenced the shape of marriage, but they
couldn't eliminate marriage.
Nor could the feminists, I must admit in all
fairness. Early on in the feminist revolution, some of the more
radical activists shared a utopian dream in which, given the
choice, liberated women would forever select bonds of sisterhood
and solidarity over the repressive institution of marriage. Some of
those activists, like the feminist separatist Barbara Lipschutz,
went so far as to suggest that women should quit having sex
altogether--not only with men, but also with other women--because
sex was always going to be a demeaning and oppressive act. Celibacy
and friendship, therefore, would be the new models for female
relationships. "Nobody Needs to Get Fucked" was the title of
Lipschutz's infamous essay--which is not exactly how Saint Paul
might have phrased it, but essentially came down to the exact same
principles: that carnal encounters are always tarnishing, and that
romantic partners, at the very least, distract us from our loftier
and more honorable destinies. But Lipschutz and her followers
didn't have any more luck eradicating the desire for private sexual
intimacy than the early Christians, or the communists or the
fascists. A lot of women--even very smart and liberated
women--ended up choosing private partnerships with men anyhow. And
what are today's most activist feminist lesbians fighting for?
The right to get married. The right to
become parents, to create families, to have access to legally
binding unions. They want to be inside
matrimony, shaping its history from within, not standing outside
the thing throwing stones at its grotty old facade.
Even Gloria Steinem, the very face of the
American feminist movement, decided to get married for the first
time in the year 2000. She was sixty-six years old on her wedding
day and just as brilliant as ever; one has to assume she knew
exactly what she was doing. To some of her followers, though, it
felt like a betrayal, as though a saint had fallen from grace. But
it's important to note that Steinem herself saw her marriage as a
celebration of feminism's victories. As she explained, had she
gotten married back in the 1950s, back when she was "supposed to,"
she would have effectively become her husband's chattel--or at the
very most his clever helpmeet, like Phyllis the math whiz. By the
year 2000, though, thanks in no small part to her own tireless
efforts, marriage in America had evolved to the point where a woman
could be both a wife and a human being, with all her civil rights
and liberties intact. But Steinem's decision still disappointed a
lot of passionate feminists, who could not get over the stinging
insult that their fearless leader had chosen a man over the
collective sisterhood. Of all the souls in creation, even Gloria
had elected one--and that decision left
everybody else out.
But you cannot stop people from wanting what
they want, and a lot of people, as it turns out, want intimacy with
one special person. And since there is no such thing as intimacy
without privacy, people tend to push back very hard against anybody
or anything that interferes with the simple desire to be left alone
with a loved one. Although authoritarian figures throughout history
have tried to curb this desire, they can't get us to quit it. We
just keep insisting on the right to link ourselves up to another
soul legally, emotionally, physically, materially. We just keep on
trying, again and again, no matter how ill-advised it may be, to
recreate Aristophanes' two-headed, eight-limbed figure of seamless
human union.
I see this urge playing out everywhere around
me, and sometimes in the most surprising forms. Some of the most
unconventional, heavily tattooed, antiestablishmentarian, and
socially rebellious people I know get married. Some of the most
sexually promiscuous people I know get married (often to disastrous
effect--but still, they do try). Some of the most misanthropic
people I know get married, despite what appears to be their
equal-opportunity distaste for humanity. In fact, I know of very
few people who haven't attempted a
long-term monogamous partnership at least once in their lives, in
one form or another--even if they never legally or officially
sealed those vows inside a church or a judge's chambers. In fact,
most people I know have experimented with long-term monogamous
partnerships several times over--even if their hearts may have been
utterly destroyed by this effort before.
Even Felipe and I--two dodgy survivors of
divorce who prided ourselves on a certain degree of bohemian
autonomy--had started creating a little world for ourselves that
looked suspiciously like marriage long before the immigration
authorities ever got involved. Before we'd ever heard of Officer
Tom, we had been living together, making plans together, sleeping
together, sharing resources, building lives around each other,
excluding other people from our relationship--and what do you call
that, if not marriage? We'd even had a ceremony to seal our
fidelity. (Hell, we'd had two!) We were
shaping our lives in that particular form of partnership because we
yearned for something. As so many of us do. We yearn for private
intimacy even though it's emotionally risky. We yearn for private
intimacy even when we suck at it. We yearn for private intimacy
even when it's illegal for us to love the person we love. We yearn
for private intimacy even when we are told that we should yearn for
something else, something finer, something nobler. We just keep on yearning for private intimacy, and
for our own deeply personal set of reasons. Nobody has ever been
able to completely sort out that mystery, and nobody has ever been
able to stop us from wanting it.
As Ferdinand Mount writes, "Despite all official
efforts to downgrade the family, to reduce its role and even to
stamp it out, men and women obstinately continue not merely to mate
and produce children but to insist on living in pairs together."
(And I would add to this thought, by the way, that men and men also
keep insisting on living in pairs together. And that women and
women also keep insisting on living in pairs together. All of which
just drives the authorities crazier still.)
Faced with this reality, repressive authorities
always eventually surrender in the end, bowing at last to the
inevitability of human partnership. But they don't go down without
a fight, those pesky powers-that-be. There is a pattern to their
surrender, a pattern that Mount suggests is consistent across
Western history. First, the authorities slowly glean that they are
unable to stop people from choosing loyalty to a partner over
allegiance to some higher cause, and that marriage is therefore not
going away. But once they have given up trying to eliminate marriage, the authorities now attempt to
control it by establishing all sorts of
restrictive laws and limits around the custom. When the church
fathers finally surrendered to matrimony's existence in the Middle
Ages, for instance, they immediately heaped on the institution a
giant pile of tough new conditions: There would be no divorce;
marriage would now be an inviolable holy sacrament; nobody would be
allowed to marry outside of a priest's purview; women must bow to
the laws of coverture; etc. And then the church went a little
crazy, trying to enforce all this control over marriage, right down
to the most intimate level of private marital sexuality.
In Florence during the 1600s, for instance, a
monk (ergo celibate) named Brother Cherubino was entrusted with the
extraordinary task of writing a handbook for Christian husbands and
wives that would clarify rules for what was considered acceptable
sexual intercourse within Christian marriage and what was not.
"Sexual activity," Brother Cherubino instructed, "should not
involve the eyes, nose, ears, tongue, or any other part of the body
that is in no way necessary for procreation." The wife could look
at her husband's private parts, but only if he was sick, and not
because it was exciting, and "never allow yourself, woman, to be
seen in the nude by your husband." And while it was permissible for
Christians to bathe every now and again, it was, of course,
terribly wicked to try to make yourself smell good in order to be
sexually attractive to your spouse. Also, you must never kiss your
spouse using your tongue. Not anywhere!
"The devil knows how to do so much between husband and wife,"
Brother Cherubino lamented. "He makes them touch and kiss not only
the honest parts but the dishonest ones as well. Even just to think
about it, I am overwhelmed by horror, fright and bewilderment . .
."
Of course, as far as the church was concerned,
the most horrible, frightening, and bewildering thing of all was
that the matrimonial bed was so private and therefore so ultimately
uncontrollable. Not even the most vigilant of Florentine monks
could stop the explorations of two private tongues in one private
bedroom in the middle of the night. Nor could any one monk control
what all those tongues were talking about once the lovemaking was
over--and this was perhaps the most threatening reality of all.
Even in that most repressive age, once the doors were closed and
the people could make their own choices, each couple defined its
own terms of intimate expression.
In the end, the couples tend to win.
Once the authorities have failed at eliminating marriage, and once they have failed at
controlling marriage, they give up and
embrace the matrimonial tradition completely. (Amusingly, Ferdinand
Mount calls this the signing of a "one-sided peace treaty.") But
then comes an even more curious stage: Like clockwork, the
powers-that-be will now try to co-opt the notion of matrimony,
going so far as to pretend that they invented marriage in the first
place. This is what conservative Christian leadership has been
doing in the Western world for several centuries now--acting as
though they personally created the whole
tradition of marriage and family values when in fact their religion
began with a quite serious attack on marriage and family
values.
This is the pattern that happened with the
Soviets and with the twentieth-century Chinese, too. First, the
communists tried to eliminate marriage; then they tried to control
marriage; then they fabricated an entirely new mythology claiming
that "the family" had always been the backbone of good communistic
society anyhow, don't you know.
Meanwhile, throughout all this contorted
history, throughout all the thrashing and frothing of dictators and
despots and priests and bullies, people just keep on getting
married--or whatever you want to call it at any given time.
Dysfunctional and disruptive and ill-advised though their unions
may be--or even secret, illegal, unnamed, and renamed--people
continue to insist on merging with each other on their own terms.
They cope with all the changing laws and work around all the
limiting restrictions of the day in order to get what they want. Or
they flat-out ignore all the limiting
restrictions of the day! As one Anglican minister in the American
colony of Maryland complained in 1750, if he had been forced to
recognize as "married" only those couples who had legally sealed
their vows in a church, he would have had to "bastardize
nine-tenths of the People in this County."
People don't wait for permission; they go ahead
and create what they need. Even African slaves in early America
invented a profoundly subversive form of marriage called the "besom
wedding," in which a couple jumped over a broomstick stuck aslant
in a doorway and called themselves married. And nobody could stop
those slaves from making this hidden commitment in a moment of
stolen invisibility.
Seen in this light, then, the whole notion of
Western marriage changes for me--changes to a degree that feels
quietly and personally revolutionary. It's as if the entire
historical picture shifts one delicate inch, and suddenly
everything aligns itself into a different shape. Suddenly, legal
matrimony starts to look less like an institution (a strict, immovable, hidebound, and
dehumanizing system imposed by powerful authorities on helpless
individuals) and starts to look more like a rather desperate
concession (a scramble by helpless
authorities to monitor the unmanageable behavior of two awfully
powerful individuals).
It is not we as individuals, then, who must bend
uncomfortably around the institution of marriage; rather, it is the
institution of marriage that has to bend uncomfortably around
us. Because "they" (the powers-that-be)
have never been entirely able to stop "us" (two people) from
connecting our lives together and creating a secret world of our
own. And so "they" eventually have no choice but to legally permit
"us" to marry, in some shape or form, no matter how restrictive
their ordinances may appear. The government hops along behind its
people, struggling to keep up, desperately and belatedly (and often
ineffectually and even comically) creating rules and mores around
something we were always going to do anyhow, like it or not.
So perhaps I've had this story deliciously
backwards the whole time. To somehow suggest that society invented
marriage, and then forced human beings to bond with each other, is
perhaps absurd. It's like suggesting that society invented
dentists, and then forced people to grow teeth. We invented marriage. Couples invented marriage. We
also invented divorce, mind you. And we invented infidelity, too,
as well as romantic misery. In fact, we invented the whole damn
sloppy mess of love and intimacy and aversion and euphoria and
failure. But most importantly of all, most subversively of all,
most stubbornly of all, we invented privacy.
To a certain extent, then, Felipe was right:
Marriage is a game. They (the anxious and powerful) set the rules.
We (the ordinary and subversive) bow obediently before those rules.
And then we go home and do whatever the hell we
want anyhow.

Do I sound like I'm trying to talk myself into
something here?
People, I am trying to
talk myself into something here.
This entire book--every single page of it--has
been an effort to search through the complex history of Western
marriage until I could find some small place of comfort in there
for myself. Such comfort is not necessarily always an easy thing to
find. On my friend Jean's wedding day over thirty years ago, she
asked her mother, "Do all brides feel this terrified when they're
about to get married?" and her mother replied, even as she calmly
buttoned up her daughter's white dress, "No, dear. Only the ones
who are actually thinking."
Well, I have been thinking very hard about all
this. The leap into marriage has not come easily for me, but
perhaps it shouldn't be easy. Perhaps it's fitting that I needed to
be persuaded into marriage--even vigorously persuaded--especially
because I am a woman, and because matrimony has not always treated
women kindly.
Some cultures seem to understand the need for
feminine marital persuasion better than others. In some cultures,
the task of vigorously enticing a woman to accept a marriage
proposal has evolved into a ceremony, or even an art form, in its
own right. In Rome, in the working-class neighborhood of
Trastevere, a powerful tradition still dictates that a young man
who wants to marry a young woman must publicly serenade his lover
outside her home. He must beg for her hand in song, right out there
in the open where everyone can witness it. Of course, a lot of
Mediterranean cultures have this kind of tradition, but in
Trastevere, they really go all out with it.
The scene always begins the same way. The young
man comes to his beloved's house with a group of male friends and
any number of guitars. They gather under the young woman's window
and belt out--in loud, rough, local dialect--a song with the
decidedly unromantic title "Roma, nun fa'la
stupida stasera!" ("Rome, don't be an idiot tonight!") Because
the young man is not, in fact, singing directly to his beloved; he
doesn't dare to. What he wants from her (her hand, her life, her
body, her soul, her devotion) is so monumental that it's too
terrifying to speak the request directly. Instead, he directs his
song to the entire city of Rome, shouting at Rome with an emotional
urgency that is raw, crass, and insistent. With all his heart, he
begs the city itself to please help him tonight in beguiling this
woman into marriage.
"Rome, don't be an idiot tonight!" the young man
sings beneath the girl's window. "Give me some help! Take the
clouds away from the face of the moon, just for us! Shine forth
your most brilliant stars! Blow, you son-of-a-bitch Western wind!
Blow your perfumed air! Make it feel like spring!"
When the first strains of this familiar song
start wafting through the neighborhood, everyone comes to their
windows, and thus commences the amazing audience-participation
portion of the evening's entertainment. All the men within earshot
lean out of their apartments and shake their fists at the sky,
scolding the city of Rome for not assisting the boy more actively
with his marriage plea. All the men belt out in unison, "Rome,
don't be an idiot tonight! Give him some help!"
Then the young woman herself--the object of
desire--comes to her window. She has a verse of the song to sing,
too, but her words are critically different. When her chorus comes
around, she also begs Rome not to be an idiot tonight. She also
begs the city to help her. But what she is begging for is something
else altogether. She is begging for the strength to refuse the
offer of marriage.
"Rome, don't be an idiot tonight!" she implores
in song. "Please put those clouds back across the moon! Hide your
most brilliant stars! Stop blowing, you son-of-a-bitch Western
wind! Hide the perfumed air of spring! Help me to resist!"
All the women in the neighborhood lean out
their apartment windows and sing along
loudly with the girl, "Please, Rome--give her some help!"
It becomes a desperate duel between the men's
voices and the women's voices. The scene becomes so pitched that it
honestly starts to feel as though all the women of Trastevere are
begging for their lives. Strangely, though, it feels like all the
men of Trastevere are begging for their lives, too.
In the fervor of the exchange, it's easy to lose
sight of the fact that, in the end, this is just a game. From the
first moment of the serenade, after all, everyone knows how the
story will conclude. If the young woman has come to her window at
all, if she has even glanced down at her suitor in the street, it
means she has already accepted his wedding proposal. By merely
engaging in her half of the spectacle, the girl has demonstrated
her love. But out of some sense of pride (or perhaps out of some
very justifiable sense of fear), the young woman must stall--if
only to give voice to her doubts and hesitations. She must make it
perfectly clear that it will take all the mighty powers of this
young man's love, combined with all the epic beauty of Rome, and
all the brilliance of the starlight, and all the seduction of the
full moon, and all the perfume of that son-of-a-bitch Western wind
before she concedes her yes.
Given what she is agreeing to, one might argue
that all this spectacle and all this resistance is necessary.
In any case, that is what I've needed, too--a
clamorous song of self-persuasion about marriage, belted out in my
own street, underneath my own window, until I could finally relax
into my own acceptance. That has been the purpose of this effort
all along. Forgive me, then, if, at the end of my story, I seem to
be grasping at straws in order to reach comforting conclusions
about matrimony. I need those straws; I need that comfort.
Certainly I have needed Ferdinand Mount's reassuring theory that,
if you look at marriage in a certain light, you can make a case for
the institution being intrinsically subversive. I received that
theory as a great and soothing balm. Now, maybe that theory doesn't
work for you personally. Maybe you don't need it the way I needed
it. Maybe Mount's thesis isn't even entirely historically accurate.
Nonetheless, I will take it. Like a good
almost-Brazilian, I will take this one verse of the persuasion song
and make it my own--not only because it heartens me, but because it
actually also excites me.
In so doing, I have finally found my own little
corner within matrimony's long and curious history. So that is
where I will park myself--right there in this place of quiet
subversion, in full remembrance of all the other stubbornly loving
couples across time who also endured all manner of irritating and
invasive bullshit in order to get what they ultimately wanted: a
little bit of privacy in which to practice love.
Alone in that corner with my sweetheart at last,
all shall be well, and all shall be well, and all manner of thing
shall be well.