10 Framing with a Frame

One surefire way to make an image more appealing is to introduce foreground subject matter that calls attention to, and frames, the main subject in the background. This technique is often referred to as framing with a frame. It is one of the simplest ways to create both depth and perspective in a composition. Opportunities to use framing with a frame abound: tree branches, fences, large boulders, framing through someone’s feet or hands, tall grasses, and blooming flowers, just to name a few.

There are two ways to create the framing-with-a-frame effect, both highly dependent on the right aperture choice. If you want your foreground frame to be sharp, then, more often than not, you’ll need a wide-angle lens combined with a small aperture of f/16 or f/22. If, on the other hand, you want your foreground frame to comprise out-of-focus tones or colors, use a telephoto lens combined with a large aperture.

To use this technique successfully, it’s important to avoid using a foreground subject/frame that distracts the eye. For example, if your foreground frame consists of out-of-focus pink flowers that clash with sharply focused orange flowers and lines of textured tree bark, it might be more of a distraction than a frame that leads the eye to your subject in the background.

Think about whether your frame adds something necessary to the composition or is just an “extra” element that detracts from your main subject. Ask yourself the following: If I removed the foreground frame, would I miss it? If the answer is a resounding yes, then the frame is a good choice. If, on the other hand, it only serves to distract, then it’s obviously not a good idea. As a general rule of thumb, a foreground frame should not dominate the composition. Its role should be limited to calling attention to the main subject.

Over the course of several years, I have photographed the windmills of Schemeerhorn, in Holland, countless times. However, it had never occurred to me until this very afternoon that an opportunity to frame with a frame had been here all along. By getting down low with my 16–35mm and shooting at or near 16mm, I was able to frame the distant windmill with the dark textured wood of the little bridge.

Compare the windmill with and without the frame. Personally, I feel that the mere framing of the windmill makes it “feel” that much more important, and the foreground opening on the little bridge lends obvious depth and distance. It does not hurt that the wood is dark, adding some welcome contrast to the softer background of greens and blues.

All images: Nikon D3X with Nikkor 16–35mm lens, f/22 for 1/45 sec., ISO 200

Bryan Peterson's Understanding Composition Field Guide: How to See and Photograph Images with Impact
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